10 MISTAKES When Working With Plastic Pipes (PVC, CPVC & ABS) | GOT2LEARN

[@ivanolinghouse8732]

I feel pretty fortunate that so far I've only made 11 of the mistakes listed here. Thank you for the excellent tips and subsequent explanations!

[@RaphaelAshanti]

[@Jonathans_opinions]

Same!

[@GoNoGoDIY]

Thats the funniest sht I heard today! Thank you!

[@zachbishop3795]

I have 3 call backs in 13 years. You might consider a new trade before you flood a home or kill someone 😅

[@beaninoue7100]

😂

[@walterholbrooks673]

So glad your video is still up and running. Making it possible for a DIY repair. Called two plumbers and apparently not interested in small jobs. No shows. Thanks , will make an attempt to repair tomorrow.

[@Got2Learn]

So happy you guys are still here, i've been quite lately but it's much needed. thank you so much and good luck on your repair :)

[@ascensionprotocols2879]

Dude! I so appreciate your videos! As a home owner that isn't a plumber but needs some work done, your videos are so informative they allow a rookie like me to feel way better about taking on these projects. Thank you so much for your help! 👊😎

[@nothankyou5524]

You are probably so far ahead from where the average plumbing employee is, it would make you wretch Working for a plumber doesn't mean you're trained to do plumbing work. Good luck to you! Good Job! I read stuff about girls and guys doing and enjoying great work, my days is always a bit lighter. Thank !!!

[@devinnorsworthy9154]

​@@nothankyou5524i do plumbing work myself... and.... i do not recommend ANYONE does it by themselves. They try and save money by being superman-cheapasses and theyll get what they paid for lol. Think you can watch some training videos and have it all figured out. Stupid is as stupid does haha. If i hadnt had 6 months experience in the field prior i wouldnt even be runnung the plumbing work i am now. Impossible and stupid!

[@paulcrandall2534]

Using the right size jar of primer and glue for the size of the pipe you're working on. The larger jars come with larger dobbers which work perfect for larger diameter pipe. Same thing with the smaller jars for smaller pipe. It's not absolutely necessary to do it that way, but it does make the application of the primer and glue easier and it makes the job go that much smoother.

[@jonathanklopf7581]

It is so refreshing to watch a REAL plumber explain the intricacies of plumbing, I as a retired licensed plumber of 40 years cringe when watching the misinformation put forth by the usual youtube "plumbers". thanks.

[@revmo37]

Thanks for posting this. Our trade, like so many others is dying. I was a 12 plus year plumbing apprenticeship program teacher. Mike Rowe talks about on his podcast that only 2 plumbers are entering our field for every 5 who retire over the last ten years. Also, I always say if you must go from say threaded brass or black to PVC or CPVC, I try to make the plastic be the male fitting, as to better protect against stretching or splitting. Thanks again for this my plumbing brother. I'm entering my 37th year as a Registered Master

[@Got2Learn]

🙏🙏🙏

[@johnbagewll2321]

It’s not dying it’s just being taken over by folks of whom have not been through apprenticeship and journeyman steps. Do it yourself folks and handymen start to get comfortable doing things wrong and don’t even realize they’re doing it wrong. Every trade has a certain way and technique for each application or installation. When you don’t learn from the old timers you’re not really learning. There are hundreds if not thousands of clips on you tube that make me shutter to watch. Then again there are very good clips like this one. 43 year remodeler here. We are in a lot of trouble in the next 20 years or so. Some of the lads are still being brought up right. So there’s that.

[@nothankyou5524]

Unfortunately, all trades are dying. Sometimes, it's the contractor, laborers. Rarely do I ever say Technician. "How to Do a Triple Evacuation" Do it three times How can you do a triple Evacuation faster? Leave everything connected to it again, later

[@lluther9282]

Yep, I always use male plastic to copper or brass, especially since if I do anything wrong it's usually tightening too much.

[@bobsmith674]

Love your videos. Clearly spoken, just the important information, and no wasted time. Wish more people would make their videos like yours. Very professional, thanks.

[@Got2Learn]

🙏🙏🙏

[@Tachsman]

All these tips have I learned myself over the years. Glad to see you put them all together here for others. A portable chop saw will cut the PVC pipe square with minimal burr and is easy, especially good if your project is large or has many turns and bends to glue together. A saber saw is also helpful in cutting 4 - 6 inch pipe.

[@Got2Learn]

🤗🤗🤗

[@Methodical2]

I began using my miter saw some years ago because the scissor like pipe cutters would cause breaks in the pipe when they are really hard. Plus, it cuts like butter.

[@Al_Catraz1]

Cordless sawzall works great especially during repair/replacement of "already installed" pvc plumbing

[@joeypeeps22]

Lol me too. I'm a pool man that does pvc repair for pools.

[@jolo4036]

27 years in the business. The best overall vid on gluing . THANKS!!

[@Got2Learn]

😇😇😇

[@housekeepingrehab9030]

Best PVC/ABS video...if you are a first timer...watch every second of this.

[@Got2Learn]

😇

[@simonpaine2347]

Another tip for when you are marking the connections to ensure the angles are right, is to mark the depth of the tube, so that you are sure that the full amount of tube has entered the connector.

[@Got2Learn]

Great point!

[@JohnSmith-bq4vh]

I use the purple primer to mark the depth.

[@vanhattfield8292]

​@@JohnSmith-bq4vh And that is the correct way. 👍👍

[@vanhattfield8292]

if you are using the Primer correctly it is going to erase any marker or ink marks that you make. Just using the primer as a gauge as recommended from the guy below is a much better way to do it.

[@simonpaine2347]

@@vanhattfield8292 I have never used a primer and therefore I'm guessing that not everyone does. However, I'm curious, presumably you either have to measure the length of the primer to get it right, or just guess it? Another way of doing it is to make the mark a certain distance from the joint. Say the length of a pencil. When the joint has been connected correctly the pencil will fit between the mark and the edge of the joint.

[@MatCendana]

This is a very useful video for newbies and 'sub-amateurs' like me. The kind that knows a bit to do basic tasks, but often with not-so-satisfying results.

[@Got2Learn]

EXACTLY 💯

[@ChiDraconis]

Doing it is the only way to build 'right way' The purple is so that the inspector can see that cleaner was used the clear is the same; I like to use abrasive to remove the slick & dirt … this is a very informed work @ 3:09 speaker states holding the make up for a few seconds which is very correct as I have had them push back out if primer and cement are applied properly He shows it @ 3:15 that is what it looks like … if one is doing a non-critical that can be repaired very easily this is often not always that important but yes it does push out so hold it momentarily · We did yard lines ( in the front yard ) for a plumber that was running 256 trucks at the height of the boom

[@mrkemblegilstrap]

Don't believe everything on the internet my friend. Read my tirade, above.

[@1957mrbill]

A few of things I learned when using the purple primer. First, lay cardboard on the floor below the area you are working if you don't want permanent stains on the floor. Second, the applicator in the can holds a lot of primer when using. Before you remove the applicator completely from the can, tap it on the can's ridge so some of the excess liquid drips off. Lastly, when applying the primer to the pipe, angle the pipe with the end you are applying primer slanted down. If you don't you will find excess primer may run down the pipe leaving a purple streak. It won't hurt anything, but it makes for amateur appearance.

[@KitchenerLeslie2]

Thanks for sharing tips you learned after two applications of primer.

[@stroys7061]

Already learned most of that the hard way. Good tips! 👍🏻

[@Stan_in_Shelton_WA]

That is why they have clear primer.

[@1957mrbill]

@@Stan_in_Shelton_WA Clear is fine if you are assembling non-plumbing PVC/CPVC pipe. It's my understanding that many city codes require primer with the added purple color so the inspector can verify it was used on all the joints.

[@Quisqueyax]

The purple primer is a mess. I place a wood or a thick plastic in the work area because as you mentioned, can stains everything.

[@maungoojaved]

Dear brother, I would like to congratulate you for posting such a wonderful video for free. DIY is my passion, I like plumbering, electrical wiring and so on. Mistake number 5 was that attracted my attention the most regarding the use of a handsaw instead of an old blade from a cutter as you knew one plumber who accidentally lost an eye. Some 12 years ago I learnt from the Internet that the most common accident of DIY/amateurs is their eyes. Indeed I learnt something new from your video, hence I will take my precautions next time I shall be doing plumbering. Once again I heartily thank you for this wonderful video.

[@Got2Learn]

Nice of you, thank you for your kind words!

[@jhheidt]

A lot of 'top ten mistake' lists are really just tip guides disguised as a top ten list, but this one is legit. Glad I watched this before I tried for a second time to do my pvc job or else I probably would have been doing it a third time today. Thanks for a great video!

[@AustinFoe]

When connecting 6" pvc, my coworkers struggle using red hot blue glue in tight connections. Applying the purple primer prior always helped push the fittings in with much less resistance.

[@CassieOllie]

Damn you Got2Learn. I'm about to go to bed and decide I'm going to watch a music video before I go. Open up KZbin see you uploaded a video 4 hours and here we are. Keep up the good work my friend, love these videos.

[@Got2Learn]

😆😆😆 sorryyyyyyy!!!

[@fabianrossini1691]

It’s very inspiring seeing we still have people like you in these world. Thank you so very much!

[@Got2Learn]

🤗🤗🤗

[@nothankyou5524]

Don't be inspired too much. At some point he's gonna want to retire, and the tech coming to see you will be wearing orange or blue. I push a lot of No Nots too a couple of suppliers and a couple of tube teachers. I've seen supervisors on jobs that can only use analog meters and digit manifold gauges. Great job, people Thank you!

[@RECHEATMASTER16]

In my experience with CPVC water lines, I have never used a primer, just FloGuard Gold one step yellow cement and have never had any problems. Great video!

[@bradleyrussell1973]

Not code in my state bub. Give the xtra 4 bucks and prime those joints!

[@pabster13]

@@bradleyrussell1973 which state is that?

[@mrkemblegilstrap]

Exactly, woody. Just because it's code doesn't mean it's correct.

[@mrkemblegilstrap]

@@bradleyrussell1973 yeah if you are ready to fix all the leaks. Go for it.

[@tarsemsingh4101]

We use only flowguard plus medium bodied yellow cpvc cement No problem anywhere

[@larryzdanis5377]

Very thorough.. few people that work with these materials know all these things! Regarding #8 (deburring) pretty easy to do with a utility knife sliding backwards around the rim (the material is so soft, the knife cuts it in reverse).. and also, don't forget to debur the inside of the pipe too, for a smooth interior.

[@Got2Learn]

😇😇😇

[@markscott7400]

@@Got2Learn the q

[@jacobmcpherson8211]

You only need to debur when your boss is around

[@larryzdanis5377]

@@jacobmcpherson8211 haha, I guess thats why they call me "boss". seriously, though, if you don't debur the outside you may squeeze out most of the glue and not have a good joint.. if you don't do the inside, it can restrict flow but not too much so I'm more concerned about the outside

[@thetruthisonlyperspective4872]

@@jacobmcpherson8211 or when you don't want it to fuck up

[@Ron-no4tp]

As a licensed plumber (not always an indicator of someone who knows what they are doing) I wish to state this alternate method to the method of using pipe dope instead of Teflon tape on plastic female threads; never use female plastic fittings over metal male fittings. They crack, leak or both. Instead use male plastic threads inside female metal threads. No leaks, cracks or call backs. In fact I wouldn’t recommend plastic female threads over male plastic threads either.

[@Got2Learn]

👌👌👌

[@aaronbaraiya3692]

thats how how water main was done

[@f1reguy587]

Never had an issue with tapered metal fittings, had plenty of male threads snap off jobs to fix, usual issue being, pipe unsupported during backfill and pipes placed under tension, pipe not given expansion room, and people using the male or female elbows to change direction but somehow crossthread it at least once before getting it right… another one, bit off topic is to use pipe rated for the environment, sea air or boats, pipe under ground or in concrete, and in working areas like a winery or a honey factory, try to work yourself out of a job.

[@MendoMoto]

Agree. If you have to use female PVC, spend the extra on an SR fitting, the steel ring helps give it more support under pressure and vibration, helps keep it from cracking.

[@TYT695]

Makes sense...thanks

[@thisissyron9475]

Thanks to your videos I was able to solder my copper lines and convert to pex a. You are a life saver, money saver, and honestly doing so much good in the world. I can’t thank you enough. I even had a line leaking as a I did the work and I went to your channel to figure out how to temporarily stop the leak. AmazIng, thank you!!! Onto these pvc fittings I have to do!

[@Got2Learn]

Thank you so much 🙏🙏🙏

[@chadw9334]

I had a few comments. I'll start with #7 you never thread a plastic FIP on to a metal MIP. you only thread a plastic MIP onto a metal fip. Metal expands at a different rate than plastic, having metal threads inside of plastic can crack the plastic. (it's UPC plumbing code). #5 ABS is still legal in most municipalities, it is actually legal for tankless venting too. You have to use solid core ABS not foam core, but that is exactly the same for PVC too. Also it is recommended by the manufacturers of CPVC to use cutters on smaller CPVC so that you get a straight cut, no shavings inside the pipe. You don't have to bevel smaller CTS size cpvc, only larger IPS cpvc, cts cpvc is thinner in wall thickness, IPS cpvc is thicker wall thickness. #1 primer, you technically do not have to prime cpvc flow gard gold, the yellow glue has primer built in. Now if you are gluing cts flow gard gold transition fittings to IPS corizan cpvc then you must use primer and the orange glue.. Good information on the video.

[@Got2Learn]

Thank you Chad!!!

[@moonblink]

I give up

[@djranlove]

Thanks, I've only used primer and glue once but I'll need to do so again tomorrow. The tip about marking the pipe so when I turn it that quarter of a turn is great.

[@62Cristoforo]

I’ve always dry fit first and marked my depths and matching angles using a yellow marker. Always ream the pipe to remove the burrs, otherwise that’s where your drain blockages will start, weeks or months later, at first with just with a single hair. And then that hair will accumulate a second hair, and so on ....

[@jeremyhennessee6604]

Nice , helpful video my brother. Thanks 🙏 for this. I'm a novice at best. But we recently had a plumbing emergency at my father's and were unable to afford the pros, so, they got stuck with me. And the only plumbing I've done was as a landscaper/irrigation systems. The guy who showed me how to do it was a plumber before and said everything you did word for word pretty much (about 1/4 turns, not taking too long after cementing/drying etc) I showed my father this video so he wouldn't think i was being "fussy". I learned early in my subcontracting adventures to always heed the voice(s) of Industry Standards. They're standards for a reason While of course the most obvious, desirable thing to do is always consult professionals in any trade for such things, videos like this can be a life saver for those who simply can't afford to. THANKS again bro. Great channel man

[@georgiabrigand6793]

Excellent video and graphics quality, thorough discussion of all the aspects. Thank you very much for this systematic set of instructions. I've made only 1 of the 10 shown mistakes - cracked CPVC fittings because I applied way too much pressure. But the others were a very useful reminder.

[@bradleyrussell1973]

So many of you here saying you dont use primer or dont 1/4 your fittings. Be a good time to start guys, its code in most states and ASME instructs us to. Dont shortcut plumbing, this separates the pros from ams!

[@markjensen1822]

Here is another lesson in working with PVC, if you are grafting into a PVC pipe that has been exposed to direct Sun light for a year or more always use some sand paper on the older pipe or fittings. Trying to glue old pipe to new pipe can sometimes not bond very well at the glued connection. If you sand the older pipe and fittings just enough you break the glaze off it will bond allot easier with the new PVC.

[@DragonBuilds]

PVC should not be exposed to direct sunlight anyways, it turns brittle. 10 mil pipe wrap tape is a good way to protect it.

[@imconsequetau5275]

You should check if the warehouse or DIY outlet stores their PVC outdoors, unwrapped.

[@paulcrandall2534]

@@DragonBuilds In a perfect world, pvc wouldn't be exposed to UV and anything that was would get replaced. But that's not reality. This is actually a good tip. Just hit the pipe with a piece of sandcloth before you prime it and it's like working with new pipe.

[@doitmyselfer1952]

Thank you very much for this video & your feedback. Also, thank you for being a person who "does it right" then shares their knowledge to help others!!! I really appreciate & respect that! 👍👍

[@Got2Learn]

😇😇😇

[@bobstratton6362]

Reemphasizes everything I was ever taught. I have more than a few times been in a position that I could not twist the quarter turn. So I try to shake it or turn as far as I can but try to never just shive it together. I learned from an old timer, now I'm a old timer. Good video

[@Got2Learn]

🤘🤘🤘

[@smoxen]

I have been using PVC for about 20 years (a lot)....But, I learned A Lot in your video...Thank You !!

[@Got2Learn]

Thanks Richard!!!

[@kentkagle3850]

You are an awesome man for taking your time to make all these videos.Thank you.You are truly appreciated by thousands and i hope you realize that.(The selfish or lazy wont tell you)

[@Got2Learn]

So nice of you, thanks you so much for your nice comment Kent!

[@adamdabomb1113]

That idea of drawing marker on before cementing is so helpful!!! Thank you!!

[@Got2Learn]

👌👌👌

[@Captleemo]

I have found that it is a good idea to occasionally sharpen the blade on a PVC cutter which really helps and also instead of just just squeezing the handles just squeeze enough to snug the blade to the pipe and then score the pipe a little bit by rotating the cutter a little before finishing the cut. I have noticed much less cracking which I only really notice on older PVC pipe.

[@Chugwater_Cowboy]

A couple of things regarding the PVC cutters 1) NEVER cut cold pipe. Warm it up with a heat gun or hair dryer at the point of the intended cut. 2) NEVER try to reuse old pipe that has been burried - even though there are a lot of long lengths that could end up being cut down for shorter runs, over time the pipe becomes brittle. As soon as you try to cut to length, you start getting broken and jagged pieces. 3) NEVER use leftover pipe that has been stored outdoors. Sun Burned pipe is about the best thing you can use if you want to have leaks and dig up the yard to re-do everything. You should find this out when you attempt to cut it. Even though it might be warm from the sun, just watch it spinter and crack thanks to the sun-rot dryness.

[@truthteller3288]

I'm a new maintenance technicians this was very informative, Im subscribing thank you.

[@Viper6-MotoVlogger]

Yep, I’ve been guilty of not twisting the joint 1/4 turn. Awesome tips as usual mon ami.

[@Got2Learn]

Hihi aren't we all, cheers my man 🤘🤘🤘

[@Anthony-gq7dk]

Brilliant advice and it will save many people a lot of money, heartache and leaks !!! Well done to a great teacher.

[@Got2Learn]

Much appreciated 🙏

[@joshcowart2446]

I try to chamfer all pvc pipe. I think it’s more important than reaming it. Chamfering is especially important when I’m not able to twist the pipe or fitting. I use the Reed chamfering tool and it works great.

[@Got2Learn]

Totally agree!!

[@skip741x3]

You got a new sub here! as a total newbie who still done these repairs over the yrs when I had to, I gotta admit to making alot of mistakes after watching this... Very Needed info if ur gonna do this kind of work..luckily, even with the mistakes , the joints Ive done have held but Knowing this info will make for a much better result in the future, thanks!

[@VashtheReapr]

I love that you called it pipe dope. I was trained in HVAC by some oldheads and thats what they call it. Having conversations with younger guys and calling it pipe dope and they look at me all crazy lol

[@derekgoddard26]

Always the ogs lmao

[@VashtheReapr]

@Nathan LaRiviere i usually use the brand Rectorseal, so i also use rectumseal because Im still 5

[@VashtheReapr]

@Nathan LaRiviere yeah ill never use the white stuff again. The mess is terrible and it just smears you gotta clean it off with alcohol or brake kleen.

[@skully70]

Teflon tape, liquid Teflon, dope, permatex, wick and anti-seize all have their place. I am glad to have all of them at my disposal. Right tool for the job and all that!

[@stinkyham9050]

I'm a 43 year old HVAC mechanic and the kids I work with better call it pipe dope or I'm sending them out to grab coffee.

[@jcondon1]

This video saved me a few months ago. Thanks!

[@Got2Learn]

Both teaching each other stuff I see 😉

[@jackdolphy8965]

Terrific list. I’d add that leaving pipe in the heat (like you said) and also in the sun must be avoided (even for much longer than an hour at most!) where I an in the Arizona sun especially pvc gets brittle fast.

[@Got2Learn]

👊👊👊

[@joshandersonmerge2media792]

Thanks for these tips. Most of this stuff is on the back of the can, but it is helpful to have a little more explanation. For example - they always tell you to "chamfer the edge after you make the cuts but since they don't say why, I never knew how much or even if it mean the inside or outside of the pipe. Now I know why that is important and may explain some leaks I've had!

[@Got2Learn]

🤜🤛

[@paralellosll3849]

Number 11: Never put your grinder down like that (tip 8). You risk damaging the floor, table etc... Or on hard surfaces like concrete the grinder could skid away, potentially causing injury or damage. Every grinder ever made has a raised lip on the back, that's what it's there for. You can see it right next to the red strip on this grinder.

[@paralellosll3849]

@@johng4527 The guard is not designed for that. It's there to prevent debris hitting you in the face as you cut/grind. Just because the guard is on doesn't mean it's a good idea to do it. I worked in a metal shop where one bloke put the grinder down like that, with the guard on. He didn't realise there was an off-cut chunk of metal on the table. The grinding disk flung it across the room and it lodged itself in another guys hip. Isn't it just easer to do things the proper way? I get that sometimes you need to get creative and use tools in a way that's not intended. But when it comes to stuff like this it's not creative, it's just lazy, or at best absent mindedness.

[@Seldomheardabout]

@@paralellosll3849 Grinders are far more dangerous than people give them credit for. My father always took the guards off and made me do the work lol. I live with a small chunk of disk in my leg without problems, but still. Thank you for the info about the place to set them down. Any other safety tips for shop work?

[@sirtimatbob]

@@Seldomheardabout bud, you should get that removed. it's super prone to infection

[@Seldomheardabout]

@@sirtimatbob The disk should be worried about me.

[@benspearsracingify]

I lived with a chunk of blade in my lip for a few years before removing it myself lol

[@teaguejelinek4038]

In this list at least Ive only been making the mistake of not using a pvc saw and using my regular pipe cutters. Ive been increasing the possibility of damaging the pipe while making the cut. Thanks for the video and the channel.

[@gBayCanada]

This is excellent content and very useful. Can't thank you enough. Starting a PVC project soon and am now more confident.

[@Got2Learn]

👊👊👊

[@millea8]

I hope you're making a ton of money man because the amount of money you've saved people has to be a ton! Appreciate the hell out of these videos.

[@Got2Learn]

So nice of you, thank you :)

[@dougtyndall9945]

Only thing needing inner de-burr is when connecting 2 pipes together with the manufactured flared end of pvc pipe. The flared female end of pipe needs to be de-burred. No need to de-burr female fittings or couplings....they are already flared ans smooth from manufacturer.

[@4AVON]

I was taught when connecting PVC to metal, to always have PVC go into metal, not around it... Great video.

[@Gtihigh]

That’s the superior way. Plastic male in metal female is the way to go. 7/10 when i go to leaks in water mains in my area it’s because someone used a plastic female on a metal male at the house copper transit from pvc.

[@ninjaplumbing5828]

you were taught by a real repair plumber it seems.

[@thepitpatrol]

That is great advice

[@petersfeat]

I’m getting ready to do a repair and this video saved me from making a bunch of mistakes.

[@jimertzman7766]

when connecting cpvc or pvc to copper I always use female copper and male cpvc or pvc.. This reduces the chance of cracking from over tightening vs the reverse shown in the video. This is more important on hot water as there are differences in expansion. Genova also makes hot water transition unions that are cpyc on one end and female brass on the other. I've only seen these in 1/2" but assume there are larger sizes. When connecting to the male fittings of a water heater, use a brass coupling between the heater nipple and the male cpvc/pvc.

[@paulcrandall2534]

Great tip. That's definitely something you learn through experience. lol

[@MrNetnut]

Built House 25 yrs Ago Myself , Hand Sanded Every Fiting... All Good !!! Takes Time Mech/ Chemical Bond >>>>> So Far So Good ! Peace/;-))

[@shawnlucas4]

I'm glad I watched this video. I was just about to make 2 of the mistakes on the list (no chamfer and no 1/4 turn). Thank you!

[@Got2Learn]

🙏🙏🙏

[@nothankyou5524]

No.yoi wouldn't. You've been great Bte: how many went bade over the ys

[@williamcharles9480]

After watching several videos on copper plumbing and PVC, I must give you kudos for being the most informative and thorough with your lessons. Thank you so much for sharing your considerable knowledge on these subjects.

[@Got2Learn]

Wow, thanks!!!!

[@MrDarren5012]

Just a note : purple primer is the only one acceptable when work is being inspected by the city…clear will fail…

[@TomCee53]

Unfortunately, not everyone knows that clear primer exists, and it’s easier to assume it was not primed.

[@randyblackburn9765]

Yeah too bad , clear makes a neater job and the trained eye can spot clear primer

[@aarony184]

It depends where you are located. Had this issue where I work with it failing inspection with clear primer. Was challenged and is now acceptable to use.

[@emmber19]

Depends on the region. Cleveland is ok with clear primer.

[@wolfattack402000]

@@emmber19 Ohio code does not require purple primer because of the streaking that can occur on the exterior of the pipe. Clear primer is acceptable.

[@beccagalopogusberry1654]

Guess what, there are A LOT of people who just use primer and it causes so much damage!! The cement actually melts and binds as well, so I have been told by numerous plumbers that the primer is not necessary. We have had 1000s if not 100s of thousands without primer and it has lasted over 30 years…. You use plenty of cement on both, twist together and set at desired angles. Also, I have found ABS to crack A Lot more than pvc ; I don’t use the stuff, but I take it out. Very thorough video though! I love this for people who have no idea what they are doing and this will definitely help people not waste product on a shotty job.

[@pagepalmer6378]

Quarter turn on the way home, not after the pipe is home. The chemical welding process begins immediately and the pipe and fittings should move as little as possible once they are put together. It also says this on the cans.

[@Got2Learn]

👌👌👌

[@pagepalmer6378]

I forgot to say thank you for the great content. I find these very entertaining.

[@Got2Learn]

@@pagepalmer6378 you are most welcome Page!

[@carver4894]

Okay on 8in and bigger it's almost impossible to turn it after its home but I've never had a leak quarter-turn after its home with 6-inch and smaller. That's in my 32 years of pressure pipe gluing. I clean the heck out of the pipe and fitting. And dirt is always cleaned off with water not cleaner or primer. After the pipe is dry Prime it glue it.

[@Got2Learn]

I use a belt to turn it.

[@Shawn-x81]

Thank you. This is seriously helpful. Dealing with a broken CPVC pipe under my sink right now.

[@Got2Learn]

😇😇😇

[@a4channoob]

11: using purple primer in visible areas. purpose of the purple primer is for an inspector to see it and then it gets covered up. suppose to use clear on final rough because its very easy to spill/drip and stain stuff i n the area. you do not want to stain brand new floors or cabinets for example.

[@beerbeforebreakfast]

I've messed a few vinyl floors with purple in the passed. Never since tho! Floors aint cheap.

[@chefgreek]

Thanks for the knowledge. I'm in the process of replacing a PRV that's buried underground approximately 3 feet from the water source from the city. It was going well until the PVC from the source broke. Fortunately, I was able to go in the city hole and turnb the water off as it was flooding my PRV hole. I'm digging in the am. Wish me luck.

[@Got2Learn]

Luck!

[@michael1242]

When PVC is manufactured it is heated . The acetone in the purple primer is to break the smooth glaze off of pipe and fittings and act as a softening agent. Mainly to break the glaze.

[@Retiredkiwi]

i too have never used primer, and never had a leak, but my plumber father taught me to lightly sand both connections surfaces first(we use emery cloth), before glueing, which brakes the hard outer surface on pipe and fittings, allowing the (solvent cement) glue to get the best possible interaction with both surfaces(i still twist in a quarter turn or so as well). ps, never yet been able to get any joints apart again later, by force or with heat (i tried a couple just to test how good joints were), imo sanding first makes the bond a complete amalgamation of the 2 surfaces once set.

[@Firedog-ny3cq]

Sanding also gets rid of the plastic burrs from cutting straight pipe to needed lengths.

[@ZombieCakeHD]

A little trick I learned from one of my coworkers is that when working with PVC on DWV applications, a fittings hub depth is half it's diameter. So putting a 4" 45 fitting on requires an insertion depth of the 4" pipe to be 2" into the fitting. Also means you only need to prime about 2" back, allows for a cleaner application and looks nicer too.

[@tatchik77]

Thanks for this info, I'm a DIY homeowner repair-er? Lol

[@Comin_at_U_Live]

So a 1" PIPE will go 1/2" in? And a 3/4" pipe only inserts 3/8" into a coupling or elbow? OR 1/2" PVC ONLY GOES IN 1/4"? UHHHH , HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM.... nothing a good book or hiring someone that knows what they're doing won't solve.... attn: be careful with advice from the comments section..

[@ohboyotero]

Awesome, info-dense, efficient, and really well-produced video for any lay person. Thank you so much!

[@moabfool]

Looks like I've been doing it right. I'm glad the pipe I glued tonight will get good cure time before seeing any pressure. Still learned some stuff, but this made me feel better especially because most of what I fix is other people's work.

[@Got2Learn]

🙏🙏🙏

[@mrkemblegilstrap]

Read my tirade, above. Don't believe everything you see on the internet.

[@slackerdug3423]

Tip 11. Double your fitting purchases. Going back to the big box store gets old for a few bucks. Measure once curse twice is my motto.

[@TheEulerID]

Rather different to here in the UK where a solvent cement is used on PVC lines. I've not seen a primer use, and on PVC (and ABS) pipes a thixotropic combined solvent cement is used on both surfaces and which basically dissolves the surfaces and welds it all together. That said, I've never personally worked on welding pipes bigger than 50mm (or 2 inches) except for bosses connecting to 110 mm (4.3 inch) soil pipe.

[@kenfourey-jones3121]

Most informative. I have learned much from your video, in particular the use of a primer for solvent joints. Never thought of using an angle grinder to chamfer the cut ends of plastic pipe, what a time saver.

[@vincenthuying98]

You can also improve the covering of the glue by applying the glue on the pipe and inside the fitting with an opposite direction. So, let’s say you circle around the pipe and stripe the inside of the fitting in its longitudinal direction. This will create a surface on both ends which will make the chemical bond perform way better than the 1/4 circle turn. Turning a freshly glued pvc connection can also lead to leaks, by squashing out the glue from the capillary cavity it sits in, at the critical point of just before become ‘hand’ dry. Here in Europe, the turning action isn’t recommended. Also, priming is only mandatory for pvc pressure lines. For small sewage lines, from appliances to standpipe, I wouldn’t prefer primer with European pvc. Good clean pipe ends and the mentioned glue method will do the job to get an excellent glue joint. From standpipe and lower, I prefer rubber lip-ring fittings. No glueing. Or most preferred of all mirror welded High Density Poly Ethylene (HDPE), which is way stronger than pvc. Doesn’t deteriorate. Doesn’t break because of its thermoplastic characteristics. Is also way smoother on the inside compared to pvc and certainly abs. Especially in kitchen facilities.

[@DCherbonnier]

If you turn clockwise (CW) on both ends, aren't they in opposing direction when joined? If I'm right and you apply one in a CW direction and the other in a CCW direction they will be the same when joined. Just wondering.

[@HenryJMuckenfuss]

Great tips. I've used a marker on many installs before. Today I finished running 34' of 1 1/2" kitchen drain and rebuilding the under sink plumbing. A previous owner had run the line into the main with about a ten-inch drop using two forty-fives into a straight pipe and then a ninety into the main. Needless to say, it plugged big time, and oh yeah, they didn't bother to put in a cleanout. I went back to check all my fittings and found I missed one side, so I had to pop the pipe out of the hangers for several feet to allow me the flex to pull it apart and seal it.

[@Got2Learn]

Good job art.

[@nothankyou5524]

I use a variety of colored markers, plastic especially. I've always told the inspectors they came from overseas. Liguid Solder kills 2, plummgf

[@patmat.]

Wow thank you ! I thought I had it figured but I didn't know a third of your tips, micro-cracks yes, always inspect the pipe thoroughly.

[@Got2Learn]

💯

[@janjaf844]

So glad i watched this. Im doing my above ground pool w pvc and i wouldnt of twisted. Thanks! Another mistake i probably would of done is tested to see if it works shoryly after. Might wait till next day to be safe since I'll be using 1- 1/2 at some points

[@rudysilver6669]

Wow awesome demonstrations and visuals really informative! It’s AWESOME!!

[@Got2Learn]

Thanks a million ⚡⚡⚡

[@AhernMatthew22]

Im a 1st year plumbing apprentice find your videos very helpful thanks !!!

[@Got2Learn]

😇😇😇🙏🙏🙏

[@armadilllo]

Purple primer is also good for double checking your work , easy to see. Fittings and pipe don't fuse, I have chipped off fittings for repairs from pic a lot of times, with a success rate of 99.9% .If they fused you couldn't chip it off. Curing? Don't have time for it to cure when a customer is waiting for water or plumbing in pool pumps, the most I've ever waited is 5 minutes, usually less. I just did a 3 inch back flow valve preventer to city water to a school yesterday and waited 5 minutes, it's fine, just have to do it right. You're right though, those micro cracks suck, especially when you have to jackhammer a hole in someones brand new pool or deck to fix it. I've always just used my fingers to de-burr the pipe, works fine.

[@bob456fk6]

I've done some work on irrigation systems with PVC and I learned some important tricks here. Thank you.

[@bluerep40]

Thank you for taking the time to make this very informative video…well done!

[@Got2Learn]

Pleasure is all mine!

[@jackt6112]

Excellent video! The video spells out almost everything necessary to do a consistently good piping project and save a lot of misery. By graphically presenting not only the procedures but also the reasons for the procedures, remembering to do these procedures becomes effortless. It also inspires confidence that you can do this and expect good results. Another thing I greatly appreciated is there is no bloviating during the presentation. It's obvious a lot of effort went into producing this video and I hope the author does very well from it. *The only thing I didn't see that I learned elsewhere, is with these plastics is that surprisingly their length changes much more significantly than other materials, and being semi-rigid to rigid, some projects might need flex loops, but in all cases it must be considered so as not to create a situation that either puts great compression or tensile loads on the runs. There are charts on the web for figuring this out that I found quite surprising. I nice tight looking install may in fact be guaranteed trouble. PS: Have a method to cut pipes square whether that is wrapping a piece of paper around the pipe when you mark or another method. This ensures that when the fitting is fully inserted, the end of the pipe is fully inserted all the way around. PS: On the purple primer vs. clear. Purple primer stains everything permanently which is vote for clear. However, the purple also makes it almost impossible to miss areas. Find out what local code is AND what local inspectors want to see AND what local plumbers use. You might not care what code says nor required to comply, however, when you go to sell or an insurance inspector checks the house out, if it is not what every plumber uses in your area, you will be tipping your hand that it wasn't done by a licensed plumber. Also do a neat job by having it show on the pipe evenly just past the fitting, and all the way around the inlet of the fittings. *What was not intended to be the subject of this video is pipe sizing and the effect of technology and brand. If you are replacing 1/2" galvanized with 1/2" CPVC or PEX, you will read of many disappointed with the result. The problem is marketing deception has been rewarded and since has become the norm. Piping was standardized so that the entire system would flow at least what a pipe would flow if it had no fittings. Thus, 1/2" Schedule 40, which was the pressure plumbing standard for decades, actually has an ID of .622", not .500"=1/2". The CPVC that was used to replace it was also Schedule 40. So far so good. However, today there is only one brand available for CPVC and that is FlowGuard Gold, and their sizes are NOT Schedule 40. The ID of FlowGuard Gold 1/2" is .489" and 1/2" PEX is .485". This reduction in diameter has a MASSIVE effect on flow, 3.8 GPM for Schedule 40 vs. 2.4 GPM and 2.3 GPM respectively. (Copper M 1/2" ID is 0.569" with a flow rate of 3.2 GPM, well above 1/2" PEX.) (Some manufacturers make the much-less-common 5/8" PEX 3.3 GPM because it has an equivalent flow rate of 1/2" copper.) Small differences in diameter make a big difference in flow. Going published size-for-size is downsizing. Downsizing magnifies the impact on water temperature changes due to a greater drop in pressure when another load kicks in such as someone flushing the toilet, the dishwasher, washing machine, someone washing their hands in the bathroom, getting a drink in the kitchen, etc. If you are also installing "high efficiency" fixtures everywhere, it might not have much impact. Up-sizing can also have downsides, such as taking forever to get hot water to the fixture, especially high-efficiency ones. Better that cold be oversized than hot so that cold water pressure doesn't drop as much with usage and which results in a lesser water temperature increase in the showers. Manifolds can prevent this but that adds a lot of complexity and kills the practicality of installing a hot water recirculation loop. The only reason I wrote this is so that people are cognizant of the remaining factors to get the system they are after that might not be obvious to many. *We might as well expose another marketing deception while we are at it. "Yeah, but because we have smooth transitions at our fittings and we do not reduce the diameter, we get 40% better flow rate." (Most often used in the PEX expansion vs PEX crimp method argument.) Requiring 40% less acceleration of the water in the few inches comprising the fitting might be true, however, the effect on system throughput vs. pipe diameter is small because the fittings comprise such a small part of the pipes' lengths overall. So when you hear someone say, "If you go with crimp rather than expansion, you might want to upgrade a size.", you will know that while you might be able to benefit from his knowledge and experience, you will be able to recognize that he is simply "shooting from the hip" with that comment. And no, "...because we have smoother pipes inside..." makes an almost immeasurable difference in actual flow test results. There are design manuals you can find online that plumbers theoretically use to design and size systems. The number one thing you need to know when using them is the basis is for their calculations. Is it scientific or rule-of-thumb? Next, is it copper? (1/2" M=0.569", L=.545, K=.527), is it Schedule 40?. The only two I've seen are Schedule 40 and more recently copper. You may have to adjust what they use with a percentage increase for actual pipe length while using the same loss vertical rise. There are pipe length equivalents for each type of fitting that will help you size the system. They show their standard loads of the fixtures which you need to adjust to your actual. Many of the training videos, even by plumbers, will guide you through the design of a PEX system are using numbers that are based on "rule-of-thumb" or from actual numbers from manuals that are based on Schedule 40. This also means that even duplicating a current system design done a professional plumber might be less optimal than the best you can do. Even if it ends up being the same, you now have confidence that your design will deliver on your expectations. The reason I went through the trouble of writing this is so people understand why they read so often that many people were disappointed with their water pressure after Acme Plumbing replaced their plumbing, so they don't end up like them after they spend the money and take pride in a quality job when following the instructions in this video.

[@Got2Learn]

Thank you, don't forget to share, it really helps the channel!

[@edwardmccoy274]

There is a big difference between roughing in some three inch for a two bath house, and connecting six inch cpvc, bevel pipe. Glue and primer.

[@jerrysmith9780]

You say Thanks for watching, I say Thanks for sharing! Another very informative and enjoyable video.

[@Got2Learn]

So nice of you!!

[@patmcbride9853]

I never primed my PVC pipes (before they sold primer). My non-primered joints held just fine, but my big mistake was using schedule 125 where tree roots were likely to grow.

[@beccagalopogusberry1654]

Finally, someone who doesn’t use primer! My dad has been doing this for over 40 years and I’m the 5th generation in our family as a plumber in our long running family business. Had joints last for over 50 years without primer. The glue does the same reaction my father says.

[@beccagalopogusberry1654]

@@kidowan. lol when its not even required by law in my state, its not ill practice. There are pvc jobs where we fixed other plumbers primed jobs(not saying its the primer but when you guys thinks it’s clean, you dont put enough glue on it or something) and it fell apart in a couple of years but my dads work has been in for about 30 and still nice and strong. Just because you pink slip it doesn’t mean i care that your right lol. I know what i see out in the field.

[@e11jah]

Great tips! I am very glad I decided to watch this video BEFORE I started my project!

[@nunovyobeeswax4177]

One thing missed about glue, after making a connection, doing the twist and hold, also wipe the excess off from the pipe, as the excess will soften and weaken the pipe wall just beyond the fitting if left to sit, and over time the pressure can pop a pinhole leak in the pipe itself just before it meets the fitting.

[@Got2Learn]

👌👌👌

[@elkess1]

Deep.

[@worldview730]

Thanks for these tips. Especially the one at 4:08. I used to knock the prefitted nipple out of the fitting socket after I marked the depth with a hammer, now I won't do this based on your advice.

[@brianb4745]

Nice video. Just a warning. Be careful with dry fit. If you push those fittings all the way on you’ll be cursing trying to get them apart. Just lightly insert for the dry fit marking.

[@Got2Learn]

Very true!

[@steinbierz]

I've always wondered about the whole dry fit process for the reason you mentioned. Dry fitting has never worked for me so I guess I really wonder what the value is. If you can't insert the pipe to the stop when dry fitting, I question the value. Just curious.

[@RJFP67]

Not using primer ??? That’s common sense when working with PVC. I’m glad I payed attention when reading the instructions. I plumbed my whole house 20 years ago. I just replaced most PVCdue to corrosion. I have a cistern well and I upgraded the pump , pressure tank , and check valve. I did hire a well specialist to upgrade the system itself. Afterwards I replaced the 30 gallon hot water heater with an electric instant on water heater. My electric bill dropped over $50.00 a month once the system was repaired.

[@Githrog]

Good vid man. I see these mistakes far too often. And a lot of these mistakes are being made by veteran pipe workers who are just being stubborn and are to prideful to change. I have multiple coworkers who refuse to bevel their pipe ends because they believe it's a waste of time.

[@Got2Learn]

👌👌👌

[@j12997967]

Wow: the difference between this video and those from amateur plumbers is frightening. I've subcribed for a long time and I'm really glad I found this extremely helpful video. Thanks for all your help.

[@Odin029]

The best way I've found to get a glued joint apart is a small hacksaw, a chisel, a hammer, some patience, and a few curse words.

[@brimster-valorantaggressiv3419]

Don't forget the super strength elbow grease and armpit sweat

[@kevinintheusa8984]

I was installing a sediment filter on my pump to my sprinkler system. I inadvertently cut the outfeed pipe about a quarter of an inch too short and had to remove the 4 inches of pipe that was too short from the filter outfeed. It was a two-inch schedule 40 piece of pipe. I cut it with a small hacksaw on the inside and tried to break it along the cuts so I could twist it out without damaging the filter. I was struggling for about 45 minutes and it was not having it. My wife called her Dad and he came over and watched me trying to get the pipe out of the filter housing and he asked me to hand over the piece. He took the glue and smeared it on the inside of the pipe where it was bonded to the filter housing. He then took out his lighter and set it on fire. The inside of the pipe was crackling and the fire was pretty high. He waited for about a minute (it was a two-inch pipe) and then he used my channel locks to pull the pipe out of the filter housing with no damage at all. He was a Seabee and said he learned it from a trade plumber years ago and used it ever since to remove bits of pipe from fittings so they could be reused. I had to sand down the glue remnants inside the fitting but put in a new piece of pipe with lots of glue and it worked like a charm.

[@williamdebow3478]

A hot air gun works wonders. You can also use a hot air gun to make slight bends in PVC pipe avoiding having to make a joint.

[@omnarasi9637]

Thank you for enumerating the mistakes with a concise explanation.

[@Got2Learn]

You are welcome!

[@johnmurphy9550]

I'm in the UK, never seen any primer, installed hundreds of systems - always apply glue to both sides with clean pipes and fittings- from 15mm to 125mm, never had a problem.

[@RandomDudeOne]

If it says on the can of cement to use primer I would use primer.

[@Sean_y4k2l5]

​@@RandomDudeOne they have a monetary interest in getting you to use it whether it helps or not. you might want to look into it. some people have tested it and found that using primer causes weaker joints. I don't use it.

[@RandomDudeOne]

@@Sean_y4k2l5 They also have a monetary interest in not telling you to use a product that actually makes the bond worse, because sooner or later people will figure it out and then they get the sh*t sued out of them, which is probably why it's not true.

[@Sean_y4k2l5]

@@RandomDudeOne and yet, scams exist. look into it. a lot of people have done testing.

[@steelman86]

I love that the guy is holding his open end adjustable wrench backwards!! Not a big deal in this application but it could in another!!!

[@flashbazbo694]

I prefer to prime both surfaces, while only applying an abundance of glue on the male end. Gluing the female side forces glue inside the pipe and fitting during insertion. An adequate amount of evenly applied glue on the male end, inserted with a twist, creates a perfectly fine, leak free joint, without the nasty tasting glue getting on the inside, which also creates a point in the system more likely to form a clog.

[@imconsequetau5275]

The pipe chamfer on the outside is what prevents the pipe from scraping the glue off the fitting surface. 99% of plumbers may not chamfer pipe.

[@nothankyou5524]

Chamfer? The won't 8:12 ? 8:12 8:12 clean the grease off Ever see someone solder with a schmear of brake fluid beyond the joint it's a riot to see people using heat paste. Or aluminum foil under steel flashing. Ever see anyone glue or use liquid copper in a tube or high grade codtyvtion construction adhesive

[@artofnoly9754]

Good tips. I'm making a home spun roof mounted 4" PVC solar hot water unit for my motorhome. The last thing I want are leaks. Tx for sharing.

[@JD-rp1fx]

Also, in some applications such as flue vent lines, a specified PVC primer and cement must be used (System 636 in this example) in order to certify. System 15 DWV may also. Make sure the primer/cement matches the application.

[@beccagalopogusberry1654]

So true! Even for temperature too!

[@BlownF150]

I use Oatey Fusion 1-step for PVC. Using primer is an outdated modal, goes back to earlier PVC plumbing manufacturing processes where cement alone couldn't reliably bond due to the hardness of the skin of PVC pipes and fixtures. Purple primer everywhere looks sloppy and if you are doing repairs in somebody's finished house you run the risk of stains on surfaces. For commercial work with inspections it only needed because somebody needs to justify their existence. Some jurisdictions allow clear primer, a grudging step in the right direction. One step cements are well known in CPVC use, though mostly forgotten in the last 20 years as it has fallen out of favor.

[@CuttinInIdaho]

This^ It take a lot of effort to make primer look decent and it basically has zero effect, or worse, it reduces strength...and it looks ridiculous if you don't know what you are doing or don't take your time.

[@WVRetreat]

Tip: Most PVC pipes are very sensitive to sunlight (UV light). That's another reason to keep them indoors. If you must use PVC outdoors, look for a UV-resistant PVC or just simply paint the PVC after it's been cemented and tested for leaks. Just keep in mind that if you need to add a new fitting you will have to remove the paint first so that the cement can properly join the PVC.

[@teacherlynn671]

Yes and how do you remove the paint easily. I am having a hard time getting the paint off of pipe and am doing a project on? thanks

[@Got2Learn]

Use clear primer ;)

[@WVRetreat]

@@teacherlynn671 The paint can be removed with paint thinner.

[@teacherlynn671]

@@WVRetreat Thank you

[@teacherlynn671]

@@Got2Learn I have clear primer but how would I do this process

[@iskoos]

Thank you for the very nicely made video. I knew most of them but still picked up a few and refreshed my knowledge before tackling another DIY project. I always use primer when there is one to go with the cement. But some glues (made by Oatey and/or some other brands) are just one-step. I don't think they leave the primer out. Guess they just mix the cement and primer and put them in a same container. My PVC glue had both primer and Cement, but the recent Oatey CPVC cement I got does not have a sperate primer.

[@Got2Learn]

🤘🤘🤘

[@WJHandyDad]

I can't believe there are 50 thumbs downs on this video! It was very helpful. I am ashamed to admit I've made most of those mistakes, but thanks to you I won't make them in the future!

[@Got2Learn]

I have no idea either lolll

[@nothankyou5524]

I do. I know everything. I live in a part of the country where illiteracy is rampant. That's why my partner and I turn down we operate with crews of 10, each. They make great money, we never have a Cranky day, any call back Is minor, it's nothing at We just send back a couple of pictures and we get the replacement part in 24 to 36 hours Best wishes R M M

[@guardian8319]

Dude your channel is excellently executed and an amazing source of information thanks it's very much appreciated!

[@Got2Learn]

🙏🙏🙏😇