#1 PEX Plumbing Mistake You Don't Want to Make (A vs B)

[@SilverCymbal]

Thanks for watching please LIKE & SUBSCRIBE if you found this useful. My favorite new pipe cutter: amzn.to/3ZNpFPZ

[@ragemodegaming7962]

0:47 If the parts are not compatible, how would they fit? And if they DO fit, why did you write "sadly"? 🧠🔨

[@greggv8]

Nobody in North America was selling ready made manifolds for PEX-A until I contacted Apollo and asked if valves they showed on their site for PEX-A could be installed in place of the valves on their PEX-B manifolds. I also included the model number of the manifold I was looking at. After a few days Apollo replied, saying they were "just about to" introduce a line of PEX-A manifolds, would I like to buy *the very first one*. Yes, I would. The box it came in was for the same size PEX-B manifold with large labels stuck over the text and images, with appropriate text and images for the PEX-A version. All they did was take my inquiry about swapping the valves, swapped the valves, created a new set of SKU entries, new box art etc. It only took someone asking a company willing to listen to customers, why *nobody* sold manifolds equipped to connect PEX-A. At least I didn't have to buy the PEX-B version and the PEX-A valves separately, unscrew the B valves to throw away and screw on the A valves. That does bring up the interesting possibility of using an Apollo manifold to connect to both A and B pipe. Simply buy an A or B manifold and a few valves for the other type of pipe to swap. The inlet adapters are also interchangeable. Could possibly use metal or PVC for the inlets, if the adapter threads are normal pipe thread. Apparently until about 3 years ago, PEX-A was intended to mainly be used as a direct replacement for tree and branch metal or PVC plumbing designs, and if you wanted a manifold you'd have to build one from separate fittings, pipe, and valves. Or use two of the simple "log" style PEX-A fittings with one inlet and 2 or more side outlets (like Apollo's EPXM3PT)- but those still required connecting separate valves with short pieces of PEX-A pipe if you wanted a manifold with shutoff valves.

[@Maine307]

yup- 2012, i ordered a manifold and had to create it with ball valves and "build" it so that my PEX-A system and Maine manifold was done. Now, U can buy your main manifold with built in shut off valves!..lol.. but.. no regrets.. still would have been nice to have the ball valves manifold already built in to it..@@greggv8

[@Dr_Wrong]

Maybe they fit.. poorly?

[@randallthomas5207]

@@greggv8 The last few manifolds I have purchased came without valves, and you purchased them seperate ly to end up with the configuration you want.

[@justincase5272]

I loved the fact you didn't waste our time dragging out your outstanding 6 min video into a half-hour monstrocity. Subscribed!!!

[@BryanTorok]

This is the third video I've watched on this topic, but first one I actually understood and which will likely stick. The others were longer and also confusing. Also, this is the first to mention a manual PEX A tool suitable for homeowners who aren't going to be doing a lot of connections.

[@spartianknight.]

The best thing about this video is you got right to the point and kept the presentation moving. I appreciate that. Thumbs up!

[@DavidW-r1o]

If only the info was accurate. 🤦‍♂️

[@joshcowart2446]

This comment is a correction of the video and not an attempt to knock it. Many plumbers believe what the video says. For any diy person, as long as you use crimp fittings, you’ll be fine regardless of which pipe you use. Pex a and pex b are compatible. The misconception is that pex a is expansion only and pex b is crimp only. However crimp fittings will work on either one. Expansion fittings are for pex a only. They did make pex b expansion (watts or zurn I think) but it never took off so maybe it didn’t work that well. Actually there’s 2 more kinds of pex but you don’t need to know about those unless maybe you’re doing radiant heating. If you don’t trust what I say go to the manufacturers website it’ll say the same thing

[@brandonwilson2624]

I use Zurn for expansion and crimp. I’ve seen to many pinhole leaks on Uponor so I switched

[@joshcowart2446]

@@brandonwilson2624 is that the zurn pex b expansion. We use heat link oex a expansion but when we used uponor, I never had that problem.

[@backwoodshomesteadllc]

Following

[@brandonwilson2624]

@@joshcowart2446 Zurn pex can do both crimp and expansion. On the red/blue Uponor you’ll get pinhole leaks at the expansion at fittings. Supposedly only an issue with their red/blue pipe but I decided to switch away from it to avoid any issues down the road for my customers

[@gregstuver1242]

Also note that the plastic fittings have a smaller inside diameter than the brass. The brass fittings will give better flow (closer to the Pex A). If you have a volume or "flow" issue, its most likely flow restricters in your faucet heads.

[@richardfarrerii3058]

Plumber here, I appreciate the work that went into this video. Great information and explanation. For continuity keep all your water distribution piping the same. That being said; Uponor Pex A can be crimped or expanded

[@Mike-01234]

Also the claims of flow restriction is complete nonsense in a home with the Government required flow restrictors which are the size of a pinhole.

[@squarebodyseth5986]

Except that it shrinks so much that it ends up tearing itself @@Mike-01234

[@jpjp3873]

@@Mike-01234😂 you keep the restrictors?

[@WaltShear-mz5ug]

About 5years ago I began repairs to my PVC plumbing using pex line. I assume now it is pex b. Connected with shark bite fittings I have no problems at all. Fast and simple and completely reliable. The shark bite fittings are not cheap.

[@Mike-01234]

@@jpjp3873 I suppose if you buy cheap fixtures easy to remove it. Not so easy with expensive brands like Kohler. I have a shower head I got off Amazon cheap chinse brand it was designed so it could be removed.

[@docaylsw]

I had a 1979 motor home with what looked like PEX pluming. When I had to replace the hot water heater, I had a VERY hard time finding fittings that would work. It had similar connectors as PEX B but were a different size. Turns out it was Polybutylene, and I finally did find the proper fittings. What a pain!

[@engineerinhickorystripehat]

I used air brake fittings and tubing

[@ShirleyHarrison-rv1ol]

Thank you for your information.

[@travisdoe4663]

Yeah you find that in old premanufactured homes too. For small repairs shark bite fittings work on that.

[@Klattu]

1988 Airstream motorhomme has PEX with aluminum crimp rings and plastic fittings, tees, elbows etc. Terrible leakeks everywhere. Has to replace the crimps with copper and fittings with brass. Additional feature is PEX can freeze without busting.

[@AdventureAwaits1111]

Yes, old rvs use polybutelene pipe. I am not a fan because its discontinued in residential use and hard to find fittings now. It was discontinued because joints would fail and the fitting would come apart. Idk, polybutelene was put out before the testing was completed. PEX has proven to be worthy in my opinion.

[@WMDbooks]

Love this! Unlike most KZbin videos, this ione is jam-packed with nothing but information-no padding or fillers. Thank you!

[@wallebo]

Yes, I basically said the same thing and even pointed out this video to a friend as it was very well done.

[@RH3949]

Just would be better if the info was correct

[@POWER-LINKS]

@@RH3949 And the error is..................?

[@Lyle-xy8eq]

I spoke with Uponor about what connection types could be used on their PEX A pipe. Yes the expansion fittings allow for the greater flow rate, however you can use crimp rings on Uponor too but it will reduce flow rate as you would use PEX B fittings. I needed the flexibility but did not want to invest in the expansion tool for the little plumbing needed from my project.

[@frequentlycynical642]

The flow restriction for a fraction of an inch is highly overrated. In the real world, it's of no consequence.

[@urbanturbine]

​@@frequentlycynical642exactly. You'd see no difference at faucet or shower. Pressure drop across piping is negligible as compared to the pressure drop at the faucet aerators, shower head etc

[@kozemchuk]

Totally, I've crimped PEX A before when connecting to a PEX B system, it's always been fine.

[@georgedavall9449]

@@frequentlycynical642 Exactly! Speak with a Certified Plumber, and he will tell You the same thing. Most water systems are limited to begin with. Get real peeps

[@Mike-01234]

Have you ever looked at the Government required flow restrictor installed in a shower head, or faucet? It's the size of a pinhole the slightly reduced diameter of pex-b fittings are not going have any affect. You could replace all the 3/4 line with 1/2 in a home still would not max out the flow rate unless you remove the Government mandated flow restrictors.

[@bluerider0988]

I'm my house I have Pex B and they didn't use any fittings except for at the fixture. It's a manifold system so every fixture has it's own run from the manifold. It takes up more room, but you reduce the pressure loss from having a bunch of fittings. Plus it's kinda nice to be able to go to my utility room and shut off water to any fixture in the house.

[@hugegamer5988]

How do you truly live without a toilet flush scalding anyone in the shower? Or the laundry coming on and freezing you? It’s those points that your nervous system really lets you know you’re alive.

[@bluerider0988]

@@hugegamer5988 ha ha, sometimes it's the little things in life.

[@bluerider0988]

@@owenblake90 I'm not sure what you mean here, there are little to no fittings, it's 1 continuous run of PEX from the manifold to the fixture. There are way less fittings than a conventional copper setup.

[@bobbray9666]

I had to specify PEX A from my plumbing contractor because they usually use PEX B and I got some pushback. The larger diameter for better water flow was my goal. Glad I did. I think most defenders of PEX B are people who always install PEX B. Change is hard for contractors and they mostly could give a rip whether what they install is better for the homeowner. Their experience is one dimensional and oblivious to what else is out there. It's always been what is easier for them, which includes their familiarity. I had many battles with contractors when we build last year from using Zip-R sheathing to polyurethane foam subfloor adhesive to installing a rainscreen behind our siding. You'd think contractors would look for better products that solve certain issues but all they want is to get in and out as fast as possible with what they normally do and learning new things slows them down. Contractors are risk adverse and I get that but you'd think they'd want to be smarter than their competitors and offer things that aren't necessarily new and have a solid track record. A cartoon shows a battle between old west settlers and indians. The indians are shooting arrows and the settlers have single shot rifles but the indians are winning. There's a salesman at the settler's door from ACME machine gun. The settlers tell him to get lost. "Can't you see we're fighting a war!" There's a reason why KZbin channels like Silver Cymbal do well. Showing and explaining alternative products that have advantages over old school products is something you won't get from most established contractors.

[@richcaseaxon]

Wow, I've watched dozens of PEX videos and yet none mentioned this critical difference. Thanks.

[@SilverCymbal]

Glad it was helpful!

[@zdd22fixes47]

😂yup, I work on autos and fuel lines and never gave the same thought to water pipes... derrrr

[@weez44]

Look around at other sources, he's incorrect about a few items here. (There are 3 types of PEX, crimping is compatible with all 3, A doesn't require expansion fittings, and so on...)

[@court2379]

​@@weez44Yep, pex-c not even mentioned. There is also barrier vs non barrier and Pex-AL-pex. Two major types of crimp rings, metal vs plastic fittings. He kept it short, but left some gaps. Presumably this is for beginners and should probably mention poly butylene as well, just so people don't put pex fittings on it.

[@toddolson573]

Nothing stated about shark bite fittings on any of the PEX, and not using the other connectors.

[@eosjoe565]

Our local Lowe's sells Pex-A and Pex-B in the same isle. Sometimes it is intermixed in the same bin due to folks not paying attention. When purchasing you must verify the style that is printed on the tubing else you might be making a return trip to the store.

[@dakotadaily7404]

Very important to check for sure but best advice is stuff at Lowe's and home Depot is not quality no matter what anyone tells you. That's why it's there, you have to buy it from a plumbing supply house otherwise you'll get janky pipe and even jankier fittings

[@dakotadaily7404]

They box stores are known for burst fittings. They don't handle the same

[@AgentOffice]

Better verify when expanding

[@starfishsystems]

The pacing on this presentation was fast but ABSOLUTELY CLEAR. Super clear speech (which is hard to achieve) plus super clear audio means that we're hearing exactly what you're telling us. Thank you! And what you're saying makes instant sense, especially when combined with clear images. So, great writing and storyboarding. I can't believe I'm saying this. I'm just a random person, what do I know? But man you are a great communicator. Plus now I get to go away understanding the PEX systems way better. This will be with me for a lifetime, I'm serious.

[@wombatillo]

Hate it when people speak slowly and use unnecessary words all over the place. This was indeed very concise and time-optimized. Excellent info package.

[@chromolitho]

The pacing really was great.

[@bewshoe4591]

this guy is totally wrong. you can absolutely crimp PEX a. you just can't expand pex b. so telling people this is ridiculous

[@SMEChapter44-x8p]

He was using a microphone that was clipped onto his shirt. That makes a big difference, especially when you are outside.

[@savvydirtfarmer]

As a DIYer with no experience working with PEX, I did a repipe of my old house. I went with PEX A, bought the Dewalt expansion tool, and had no problems at all getting the job done. Was very satisfied with the outcome and the system is 100% rookie proof - which was what I needed.

[@reaper-sz5tm]

This comment made me feel better, my house is 30 years old and has polybutylene pipes throughout, my plumber wants $4,500 to replace it with pex but I bought a crimper and 200 feet of pex line with all the fittings and valves for $450, finished both bathrooms and my kitchen, I’ve just gotta do my crawl space now

[@savvydirtfarmer]

@@reaper-sz5tm that's great! I had a bit more to do... replacing all the way through the front yard to the meter... every inch of hot and cold pipe. I did it all for about $1,100 ($6k quote). Should have been closer to $900 but I bought too much tubing and way too many fittings.

[@reaper-sz5tm]

@@savvydirtfarmer still saved almost $5,000. Absolutely worth it! Did you do it all in one go? My work schedule has made me do it in stages, I’ve got 2 runs of Poly B that are 40 feet long that are my next stage

[@savvydirtfarmer]

@@reaper-sz5tm No... it took me 3 weeks. Tight crawl space. Only had about 2 hours a day to work on it. Some days couldn't touch it at all. Figuring it out as I go... all took time.

[@brucemacneil]

I like your term - "rookie proof"

[@hathawaydj1]

If you're worried about flow rates with PexB, you can use 3/4." I had to replace some 1/2" copper that the whole house depends on and went this route with great success.

[@dakotadaily7404]

Sure but the same concept applies with PEX-B restricting your 3/4 trunk lines

[@hathawaydj1]

@@dakotadaily7404 indeed... they make 1" too

[@raythornburg2791RemindMeLater]

Both pex a and pex b appear to have fittings that fit inside the pipe. I don't understand why one would have a better flow rate based on how it's crimped from the outside?

[@Roger-ie2hp]

​@@raythornburg2791RemindMeLaterFor 3/4"" Pex B pipe the inside diameter of the fittings (which is where the restrictions occur) is 1/2" unlike the fittings for the 1/2" Pex B pipe which is 3/8". Therefore, the restriction created by the 3/4" fittings (which is 1/2") is equal to the 1/2" copper pipe that may already be in your house. So, the take away is when replacing or adding to existing 1/2" copper pipe, you go one size up for Pex B pipe.

[@hathawaydj1]

@@raythornburg2791RemindMeLater Pex A pipe expands to secure over the fittings. B pipi never changes in size and the fittings are significantly smaller in diameter.

[@gravydog51]

I just had my first experience with PEX pipe. Fools rush in where wise men fear to tread and all that. The supply line to my house had a slow leak in the 1" ID HDPE tubing which is 46 years old (I've owned the house this whole time) and I did NOT want to destroy paving, landscaping, etc. to replace the line. I looked around online and found where people had actually pulled a new line through the old one, and I don't mean by bursting it. I found that 3/4" PEX fits comfortably inside the 1" poly. I made a steel plug with several sharp barbs and a pulling eye on it, a little bigger than the relaxed ID of the PEX A but not so big that it would increase the OD of the PEX too much (and I used no compression sleeve for this part) and used my neighbor's powered expander to insert the barb. I had a sufficient length of Romex house wire to pull through the old pipe and used it to pull the PEX. I put some wire pulling lube in the poly pipe and added more to the PEX as it went in. It went pretty easily at first but got harder and harder due to the friction caused by the tight curl of the rolled PEX pushing on the walls of the poly pipe. I had a helper to assist me pulling on the wire but in the end it was all we could do to get it all the way through! I measured first so I knew it would reach but it took all but two feet of a 100' roll to do the job. I used PEX barbs intended for direct burial and covered my splices in sand to protect the bit of exposed PEX from rocks. The water flow in the house is great as always because our supply pressure is 100+ PSI and there is no pressure reducer. It was a big job but I'm happy with the outcome and at 73 I'm pretty sure it will outlast me!

[@SamSam-ke9zy]

Great video! No gap in speech and to the point. You are an example to all youtubers sir!

[@gweedomurray9923]

I love no nonsense devoid of cheesy sound tracks approach when dealing with work issues; be it cars, the home, the yard, building outside storage buildings etc.

[@jamesmyname]

I replumbed my house with pex A. A big benefit is you don't need to get the tool to the connection. You can expand the pipe where convenient then have several seconds to get it to the fitting. It makes a big difference if, for example, you're on a ladder, whole arm in a joist bay, and trying to make the connection without cutting a bigger hole in the ceiling.

[@diverbob8]

The warmer the weather, the faster you have to be, otherwise, you will get fittings stuck half way on. When this happens, I use a razor blade knife and a wood chisel to weaken one side of the connection and then folding it sideways, I split the pipe off the fitting to recover it. It is CRITICAL not to cut or score the central sealing ring.

[@DonTruman]

I replumbed my house with B and didn't have any problem getting into tight spots, at least not with the crimp tool I was using. But I don't doubt the A method is easier, if using the $500 Milwaukee tool.

[@jamesmyname]

@@DonTruman I did buy that tool. I think it was maybe $350 (I have m12 stuff so didn't need the full kit) but point taken - it's a lot of money for something I hopefully never need to use again. I wish I had a way to borrow it instead.

[@stevem1081]

I have the exact opposite thoughts, I found using the crimp was much easier, as I could get the pipe/fittings put together in those tight places, then crimp, not having to rush before the pipe shrinks back together. I also find it much easier to take a crimped connection apart than a pex A connection. My small handheld crimper costs hundreds less and has no battery to keep replacing and can be used at a site with no power. Also, when I put in a spigot on the outside wall, to make it easier, I may put a few feet of pipe on the spigot and push it through the wall, with pex A, I would have to drill a much bigger hole to get the fitting through. Does A have a few advantages? yes, but it also has several disadvantages, just like B, so pick the one that works for you.

[@Vincerama]

@@jamesmyname Home Depot has a tool corral where you can rent various big ticket tools (Like rotary hammers and stuff you really just need for a weekend). Maybe others looking to use Pex-A can check with their local big box stores for rentals.

[@jordangouveia1863]

My house piping is copper and I've kept it that way thru the years, now i'm even happier that I did.

[@jordangouveia1863]

@@jamisonr When I installed the new boiler I sweated 27 joints in all different locations and positions, not one leaked. I've been sweating copper for 40 years ain't burned down the house yet! But thanks for your concern.

[@randallriggs2159]

I prefer soldering to ​@@jordangouveia1863

[@AdventureAwaits1111]

With shark bite fittings and a piece of pex, you can intermix with copper. I did this on a repair that was prone to freezing. 5 years. No breaks and no leaks. I sweat copper also....but this repair just made sense...and it worked. I will only replumb with pex, BECAUSE of the freezing forgiveness.

[@kramsdrawde8159]

Thanks, I just did a all home run system in pex b with all brass fittings, & ss crimp rings, it works so much better than the old galvanized pipe I had with internal restriction...

[@davidsizemore1452]

I've used pex B on a pex a in my moms house to put in a new dish washer. So far no issues. I may have got lucky. Thanks for the info!

[@phlydude]

I've seen older versions of Uponor's PEX A use crimp fittings. Note that just having crimped fittings doesn't automatically mean it is PEX B.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Correct! All Pex is rated for crimp rings, clamps, and sleeves

[@wallacegrommet9343]

The ASTM rating for Pex expansion does apply to one Pex B from a particular manufacturer. A, B, and C refer to the cross-linking method

[@wallacegrommet9343]

I found that Pex crimp fittings weren’t as snug prior to crimping when using Apollo Pex A pipe. Hard to keep them inserted without using masking tape.

[@everythinghomerepair1747]

Also hundreds of thousands of houses are now being plumbed with the Zurn pex B system which utilizes expansion fittings which look exactly like pex a.

[@AncientChi]

​@@wallacegrommet9343zurn is basically another name for wirsbeo

[@J.M.Atchley]

I'm not a home owner.. Just a renter with fantasies of owning my own home and having the responsibilities of having to do this type of work. But I love following your channel and anxiously await each video. You present them in a way that anyone can understand. Your subjects aren't limited to one item either. From lawn care to satellite coverage. You cover it all top to bottom and I like that. Thank you for all the time and effort you put into creating your videos.

[@Kayak51]

You should start looking in how you can become a home owner. Your dreams are great and you can make it a reality. Maybe a self help home, seller financing or get in with a builder, investor or realtor who can help you get into a modest first time home then work your way from there!

[@PSNDonutDude]

Trust, stay a renter if you enjoy anything else. It becomes 50% of your life. Hobbies, activities, sports all take a back burner.

[@Kayak51]

@@PSNDonutDude you're right. Homes come with some chores but for me they are fun and get added to the list if hobbies. However, looking back, I used to hike more and get out more when I was just renting.

[@JAYY_JAYY]

@@PSNDonutDudeThere’s no doubt maintenance and upkeep along with upgrading parts of your home keep you broke and busy . Although it is a major way most build financial stability as you age .

[@robotbro7187]

only buy a house when you are easily able to afford one. Don't let the pressure from other ppl force you to buy a home if you are not ready to. Houses have a million expenses, and require mad maintenance. Way too many people buy homes that they have no business buying.

[@diverbob8]

FYI...Beyond potable water, I have been using Pex A in process applications for harsh chemicals and compressed air for about 5 years with very little trouble. It would have been good to show the central sealing ring on the Pex A so that those fittings can be very easily identified. Another very significant advantage is that the the fittings in Pex A can be turned like a swivel without affecting the seal if done without pressure applied. In a process environment, with Pex A to NPT fittings I have joints that have been unscrewed dozens of times and then reassembled without leaks. Lastly, since Pex A is commonly expanded and it remembers to how to shrink, it is common for it to survive freeze thaw cycles.

[@DonaldRak-ku6bi]

Hi diverbob8 I read your reply all of it and one thing was missing was " What"type clamping with pex are you using pigeon type squeeze ring or pinch ring, I want use it on air line and you say it was great but guess Shark bite push together won't hold up with 125+ psi would you please respond back to me thanks Donald

[@sewerrat7612]

​@@DonaldRak-ku6biI wouldn't use pex for 125 psi there's a reason we install prv in houses.

[@vancebeazer458]

I think over 100 psi or so requires an additional clamp on pex a as I recall. Not just the expansion ring .

[@TheFlutecart]

I've been swapping out my old PVC piping for PEX B for about 4 years now. Casual replacement of course. Finished it out this week when I fixed the kitchen sink. But whenever there is a problem or an upgrade or modification, the plumbing part is 10 times easier with PEX. It tolerates freezing much better than CPVC and bends enough to make the job a breeze. Just keep a couple Sharkbite connectors around for those tight places the crimp tool wont fit easily. Best plumbing upgrade ever. My propane powered 7gpm instant water heater by Rheem is a close second.

[@wagonet]

had zero use for this ifnormation until i found a dripping leak. GREAT video, i now know the difference.

[@ahkeen]

Perfect timing on the video. I got a leak from the master bathroom dripping to the kitchen ceiling. Saves me the headache when I go to HD to buy Pex

[@RogueSecret]

There is pex A,B and C. PEX A is made using the Peroxide, or Engel, method. PEX B is formed using Silane, or Moisture Cure, method. This is the most common PEX pipe type out there. PEX C is created using the Electronic Irradiation, or Cold, method of cross-linking. Roth is Pex C, that pipe is much more chemical free on the inside, a little more stiff, can be used on both drinking water and heating system. But this Pex you cannot heat up to repair it like you can with feks Sanipex.

[@royc324]

Don't forget about "PEX-other", Uponor helioPEX X2. A proprietary type of crosslink method that Uponor developed, similar to "pex-a" but less expensive and not approved for potable use.

[@TrogdorBurnin8or]

And PE-RT , which also recently popped up in Home Depot. @@royc324

[@adamconaway4826]

They also make a type of pex with an 02 barrier for hydraulic and heating.And if you're North of the border, you can find pex Al pex. Good luck at finding a proper​ Fitting to attach onto that.@royc324

[@RogueSecret]

@@adamconaway4826 C pex with sharkbite works on hydraulic and heating. Roth Nordic, very good system.

[@1DwtEaUn]

pex-al-pex is usually treated the same as pex-B as far as connections go

[@JimYeats]

I would say the biggest point here that wasn’t covered is that you can use clamp style fittings on Pex A. So, if you’re comfortable with the minor potential for more leaching with Pex A, and can source it easily enough, there is no downside to using that as it will work with either expansion fittings or clamp fittings.

[@swell07_]

why are you acting like a contract team paid to do the plumbing on a home cares one iota? theyll be long gone while the poison accumulates in the homeowner and have no significant consequences for a decade.

[@JimYeats]

@@swell07_ I'm not acting like anything. I'm just pointing out that other than the theoretical potential for Pex A to leach a little bit more in certain scenarios, there really isn't a mechanical downside to using it. Secondly, there isn't any data that says it ISN'T safe to use, so there isn't a reason that a contractor wouldn't use Pex A.

[@JimYeats]

@@everyisnaadisfabricated3784 I haven't seen any data or evidence that suggests that.

[@guhv1386]

@@swell07_ My plumbing company uses Pex A, and we care a lot about the final product many years down the line. Houses that I have installed pex in are still under warranty for over 10 years and we haven't had any issues. You don't know what you're talking about.

[@guhv1386]

@@everyisnaadisfabricated3784 This is completely false. If installed and secured properly out of sunlight it will take many decades to deteriorate and split. You don't know what you're talking about.

[@haroldbevins393]

I had been hearing that pex was failing. I'm so glad I ran across your video today as it sure clears up what I was thinking was all pex failing. Glad to hear about the two different tupes. Thank you

[@flinch622]

Keep your pex A out of sunlight - UV resistance is not good. Mainly, don't store uncovered in an outdoor yard [for those who buy full spools].

[@DellAnderson]

Nice explanation. Not a plumber but doing a partial repipe job from copper to PEX-A (F1960) in an old RV. Have been researching and trying to understand PEX plumbing for years, got WIRSBO certified about 15 years ago and still believe it to be the best overall. However there are at least four other downsides not mentioned: 1) You cannot 'dry fit' PEX-A (because the fittings won't slide into pipe without expansion) and 2) You can't use the expansion tool on fittings that are too close together without doing both ends of the pipe at the same time (it will break the previous fitting otherwise). 3) It is harder to 'undo' mistakes (you have to carefully cut the ring off without nicking the ring + heat gun to soften and loosen the pipe. 4) Most PEX-A fittings have to be ordered online and fittings are fewer than PEX-B. Putting the first three downsides of F1960 (PEX-A) pipe together, I can understand why Home Depot stocks the Pex-B stuff, but I don't understand why they don't explain better the need for transition fittings. FWIW, there is definitely a learning curve in Pex-A assembly, especially when there are tight space tolerances such as an RV. I'm very happy with the result but there were times I wished for the ring crimpers and PEX-B simplicity which probablyl wouldn't have even worked in my particular application.

[@diverbob8]

Lowes has an impressive array of Pex A fittings now, but be certain to examine the carefully for the protruding central ring on the A fittings as opposed to a series of 3 or so identical rings on the B fittings.

[@brianpiersol9412]

So, if you were building a new sigle story home, would you ask the plumbing contractor to use A, or B?

[@DellAnderson]

@@brianpiersol9412 If you are asking me (non-plumber) I would definitely ask for Pex A mainly because of peace of mind. Done correctly, Pex B Crimp connections are fine, but I'd always worry without doing Go/No Go testing. Whereas Pex A is hard to do wrong - - if you got it on fully, it will shrink down snug and never loosen or corrode. Plus, there's the advantage of full flow fittings and extra flexibility. The only downsides to A are the expensive tool (not an issue if your contractor is a professional) and higher cost of pipe but the cheaper fittings might more than compensate. If I ever needed to splice in B type fittings I would try to find transition fittings and a cheap hand tool if I didn't have the Pex A tools but since I do, that's not an issue either. There may be other factors I don't have enough experience to recognize, such as longevity of the Pex A or resistance to chlorine, but from what I know, Pex A was the original, started in Europe more than 40 years ago, and if there were problems we would know about them by now. The "X" in Pex stands for cross-linked (PolyEthylene) and IIRC the method used to create the cross linking varies as well, and I was more impressed with the Uponor method than the other which involved x-ray radiation as I recall -- it's been a while since researching, but my intuition was that radiation would be less even. Probably a non-issue however. Just my OCD.

[@mauisuzuki7857]

Pex a has much higher failure rate! As a contractor I can tell you that pex b will not fail. Yes it takes a longer to install and costs a bit more but is overall the safer choice. Contractors like using pex because of the bottom line. It’s cheaper! Also install time on pex A is much faster but as stated, pex A will fail at some point.

[@DellAnderson]

@@mauisuzuki7857 That's interesting because it's the opposite of what I have heard. How does Pex A fail? I can't see any logical reason why it would given the nearly fool proof design. Pex B (Crimp connectors) seem much more likely to fail if not installed correctly. But I am not a contractor so interested in your experience.

[@vincenthuying98]

There’s more to PEX than just the right connectors. The original Wirsbo system, first taken over by Velta and now part of Uponor is indeed a great pipe system. The ‘memory’ characteristics of this type A PEX is indeed a great asset. However, when one accidentally kinks this pipe and by heating the kinked section bring it back into shape, the molecular netting at that location will absolve. This can become a problem in heating systems where this part of the pipe then becomes diffuse prone. Meaning, because of the molecular netting in the type A PEX, it will prevent diffuse entering of oxygen into the pipe under normal conditions. Diffuse entering of oxygen can cause slurry and slime build up in hydronic heating systems. On the use of elbows and fittings, in my former practice as a plumber, I installed many systems and brands of plastic pipe. Always with one preferred installation design prerogative in mind; to eliminate as much fittings as possible. With a central divider block it is possible to hook up any sanitary appendage, or for heating, radiators, floor and wall sections or groups without any extra connection than the obvious necessary ‘outlet’ where a tap, or radiator tap will need to mounted. That significantly decreases the chance of leaks for any installation system. Have been reading about the recent developments and complaints about PEX systems in general. Especially on the dezincification issues occurring with chlorinated water. Don’t exactly know what is available in the US, but for Europe, the main range of appendages available to make connections to taps or radiator taps don’t consist of brass, but are made out of bronze, which simply don’t have the dezincification issue. So, may that be a tip to check for. Cheerio

[@bruce-le-smith]

Great video. In addition to some other comments about the effects of chemicals like chlorine, I've heard some older pex wasn't uv stabilized. So you have to be careful about the build process or removing wall/ceiling sheathing materials for too long. The National Association of Home Builders has some good information on their site, suggesting the UV resistant pex is still only tested for between 0-6 months of exposure (and that 1 month of exposure in the south in the summer is more intense than 1 month in the north).

[@XGalaxy4U]

Pex B isn't UV resistant. It's for direct burial. So don't leave your spools laying around in the sunlight. Pex A is used in homes for that reason.

[@gregz4249]

All you have to do is put rolls in a black trash bag and cover pipes on construction site with trash bags also, I built my house in 2001 with wirsbo plumbing and floor heating and haven’t had one issue and floor heat is awesome, nice even heat and quiet

[@johnbowick7109]

I’ve been with a big box store for 17 years and in plumbing for 6. You are exactly right about people not knowing about pex A. We have about 5 bays of Pex with one bay being pex A mixed in. Our company should use this for a training video. I learned a lot and can’t really think of any specific training I’ve had in this. One way to connect pex a to b or any 2 different types of pipe when you can’t find a proper adapter like the pex a to b which I don’t think we carry, is to put a female pipe thread adapter on one pipe and a male pipe thread adapter on the other and screw then together. Although you do have to buy 2 adapters rather than one. Make sure you use thread tape or dope on the threads.

[@kortvinyard4413]

Ummmm ok... Dude calm down with the novel

[@johnhauk2885]

I use both A and B but it actually depends on the circumstances; PEX A I like to use on pressure tanks or if the water lines are at risk freezing ( summer cabins). PEX B ( viega fittings) ill use plumbing a remodel or new home. I did have a customer one time want only PEX A cause he could tell the difference in water pressure but ive never noticed a difference. Personal preference i guess. 0:01

[@shemp1howard]

Good Video. I am currently replacing all the patched up copper in my 1973 Airstream with Pex B. It has worked out good because the small vice-type crimper fits in the small confines I am dealing with. It is definitely NOT the "afternoon" project some people online claim- I have been working at it for a long time and it takes a lot of planning ahead to make the minimal amount of couplings in the really small spaces. The volume restriction in my trailer will not be an issue since there were originally fittings right off the water pump that reduced the copper system to effectively 3/8" anyway. In a house I would definitely step up to 3/4" with Pex B.

[@robrowe9174]

Pex B is perfectly fine for a residential house. It has plenty of flow rate. Most supply lines to residential fixtures are 3/8" so they get reduced down anyway. I've been plumbing 22 years and have probably installed pex B, 18 of those years. Never had a callback because the pex B I installed reduced the flow. Everything is low flow now anyway. Gotta save water and all. PEX A has issues if you have chloramine in your water supply. It's a gas some water utilities treat the water with. It makes Pex A very brittle.

[@BDogg2023]

What’s your experience with shark bite fittings, if any?

[@bobbray9666]

Except for shower heads.

[@Sharper714]

@@BDogg2023😂

[@ramjetrth]

@@BDogg2023 Put Shark Bite fittings on my house 5 years ago. Very simple and works great. Spoke with a plumber who says that's all he used because, even though it's more expensive, the labor time time saved makes it well worth it.

[@BDogg2023]

@@ramjetrth I did my whole rental house myself with shark bite 7 years ago. It reminds me of tinker toys when I was a kid. Was just wondering about a professional opinion.

[@kerryedavis]

I used PEX-B for installing a new tub/shower in a place that didn't have one before, and I used 3/4" instead of 1/2" largely because of the flow restrictions I could see introduced by PEX-B connectors. But for that long of a run I would have used 3/4" anyway especially since it also feeds a sink and toilet. Even with connector restrictions, the 3/4" is still bigger than 1/2". I also made it so the minimum number of connections would be used. In fact there's none - no elbows, etc - until the PEX gets to behind the shower/tub, and the first is a 3/4" to double-1/2" "bull-nose" T connector. One of the 1/2" outlets goes to the tub/shower, the other to the sink and toilet. No problems with flow or pressure.

[@sadsciuidae3425]

you are wise and most correct to use B and use 3/4 supply throughout only 1/2 to item

[@stevem1081]

My kitchen sink is at the other end of the house and takes forever to get hot water there. Now you may think this is crazy, and others plumbers have said this won't work, but I am going to run 3/8 pex to the sink. I have already cut a 50 ft piece, hooked it to a faucet to check pressure/flow and it works great. So now instead of 45 seconds and a gallon of wasted water, it takes 11 seconds and 1 quart of wasted water! I am also going to run 3/8 to both bathroom sinks for the same quickness and savings! 3/8 will not work for a tub or washing machine very well, but it works great for my shower as I run a 1 GPM showerhead. I only put 3/8 on the hot side.

[@kerryedavis]

@@stevem1081 That's one option, especially if you have a way to conceal it when in place. You could also run a single 3/8" or even 1/4" to the farthest point and then install a small circulating pump. Possibly on a timer, if you like. Then you'd have good hot water quickly available everywhere. But that might be more practical for like a hotel or something where the runs are much longer.

[@urbanturbine]

İt was unnecessary. Now you have to charge a larger pipe volume with hot water before you see hot water coming out of faucet etc.. meaning you will wait longer.

[@kerryedavis]

@@urbanturbine I know that, but it's not a long run and it was worth it to not lose flow and pressure to 2 sinks, a tub/shower, and a toilet.

[@jaygilley2223]

And thanks for not having any annoying background music playing! Good video.

[@boscobaracus1823]

I fixed another plumbers mistake a few years ago, he had used PEX b to install a tub spout. The flow restriction was enough to divert flow to the shower head - preventing you from using the tub spout by itself.

[@WontSeeReplies]

Great video as always. Personally I’ve never used pex, only copper. Never a leak. My issue with pex is I can’t see if there’s no seal, and water should never contact plastic. In 50 years, they’ll be saying it’s good for you. I mean 2 years.

[@andrewmckinlay2964]

Pex is better than old houses with lead plumbing components, at least.

[@steeplecab]

Copper is still the gold standard everything is compared to. It's a tried-and-true method that's been in use for decades. Using the correct solder and flux, it's safe for drinking water. The risk for all domestic water is the public part of the water system, which may have questionable components. (Think Flint, Michigan)

[@MrDmadness]

​​@@steeplecabit's not though. Copper has its use and applications, but hard water eats pinholes in it, chlorine embrittles it, and it oxidizes. Been a plumber over 30 years, pex is usually a better product, it also doesn't water hammer like copper does. In a display area of a mechanical room I use copper to flex my craft and machine like solder joints, but that's only in very very expensive houses on commercial jobs where it's spec'd. Respectfully intended.

[@steeplecab]

@@MrDmadness - I guess we'll have to agree to disagree. I've been working with copper at least as long as you and haven't seen those problems. In fact, the city here routinely uses copper lines from the main to meters in buildings. Granted we're in a dry climate so soil moisture isn't much of an issue, but we have moderately hard water. As for water hammer, that's routinely handled by code. Personally I would be less comfortable knowing my lines were regularly subject to pressure shocks that routinely stretched them to absorb water hammer. But as always, your mileage may vary.

[@MrDmadness]

@@steeplecab i hear ya, commercial installations use copper and i install a lot of it, but for housee pex is faster and imo just as good. Water source deoending copper may outlast pex, but its not been long enpugh to determine for sure. With regards to the water hammer, pex doesnt stretch it deflects, copper cannot, but you are correct that a water hammer arrestor is going to be a better solution regardless. Respectfully intended :)

[@DonTruman]

I became a do-it-yourself homeowner plumber a few months ago and did my research into the A vs B question. "A" sounded like better quality (more flexible, more resistant to freezing, better flow rate) but decided on B because: tool is much cheaper and easier to use (the manual "A" tool looks like a pain to use, especially in tight quarters, and it's not worth $500 for just a few homeowner projects) and much better parts availability at retail hardware stores.

[@Profile2.5]

The manual Pex A expansion tool is only about $60 and not hard to use at all. As far as availability of the tubing and fittings, it must be a regional thing because where I live both A and B are about equally available. And I'm not sure what you mean about tight quarters - you simply expand the tube where it's convenient, and you've got several seconds to bend and push it into place.

[@srobeck77]

@@Profile2.5 Ive read your better off getting the ratcheting version of the manual tool ($150). It replicates the power tool version better for less chance of leaking.

[@Profile2.5]

@@srobeck77 Maybe, but I don't really see what the difference is, if you use the cheaper one properly (rotating the head manually between squeezes, just like the ratcheting version does automatically). I haven't had any leaks so far, knock on wood. I think it's a matter of how much you want to pay for convenience.

[@srobeck77]

@@Profile2.5 Im not sure if rotating is better not either having not owned one. But I do know, you are supposed to spin it around if you only have the manual type per the instructions.

[@Profile2.5]

@@srobeck77 Yeah, the idea is that if you don't rotate the head (which is done automatically for you in the more expensive and powered versions) the gaps between the "blades" of the expansion head will create ridges in the plastic which may lead to leakage. Rotating the head assures that you get a smooth stretching of the plastic all the way around. My belief is that the cheaper manual versions do the same thing as the more expensive versions, but use more muscle power and you have to rotate manually. It's performing the same mechanical operation. I've had great success with the $60 tool, but 1) I'm not a professional, 2) I don't do hundreds of these joins in a month, and 3) it seems there are a variety of opinions. Shoot, I've elected to always use Pex-A because of the greater diameter of the joins and the crosslinking of the plastic, but plenty of people swear that Pex-B is just as good.

[@mgrantom]

Wow, nice video! I had no idea there were 2 types of Pex. We had our entire house re-piped about 5 years ago and they definitely used Pex A. After seeing your video I am glad to see that Pex A does not suffer from the friction loss that comes with the smaller diameter fittings. As a former fire fighter that studied friction loss in pipes, this could be a really big deal in a house that has lower than optimal water pressure from the city connection.

[@nexxusty]

There's 3 types.

[@Sharper714]

The city connection should be better presser. Besides you don’t need to much pressure.

[@jeffparker3334]

It’s not friction loss, that’s the drag in the pipe, it’s the size of the passage through the fitting. Smaller hole = less volume. Pressure won’t be effected either just the volume.

[@Mike-01234]

If Rodent gets in your home chew right through PEX pipe like nothing flood entire house. Lots of videos on YT about it where done 100k in damage people come home to find water running out under the front door, or garage.

[@hugegamer5988]

It’s actually viscosity losses, not friction. Friction tends to be almost the same independent of velocity whereas viscosity tends to increase as the square of velocity. This means going from a 3” to a 2” opening is more than twice as restrictive, not 1.5x.

[@Frank3of14]

We had a leak right after we purchased our winter home and left back North. The PEX connection broke and flooded the first floor. 17K damage. The home was 8 years old when we bought it. When we go back South I will inspect the pex and connections. Thank you.

[@howdyjim]

Thanks! Being forced to replumb house doing some research. This really helped!

[@drumaniac91]

My house was made with Pex B so when I did some upgrades I used the same Pex B (1" feeder for the house). Ryobi makes a wonderful crimper tool that works well. If you are doing on akward run it is also nice to be able to dry fit a little more with Pex B and the cold weather performance is a little better (I also like using brass instead of platic fittings). There is also Pex C but that is an odd ball.

[@joshcowart2446]

Those cinch rings are what I recommend to diy as well. I wouldnt recommend someone spend almost $200 on several tools they’ll use for one job. With the cinch rings, one tool works for all sizes and Home Depot sells them for like $50.

[@williammurray8060]

Always thought on well water, you use plastic fittings. Something about acid in water??

[@alexanderlavoie5461]

​@@williammurray8060that depends on your water. Im on a well and my water is not any more acidic then city tap. But its a crap shoot with well.

[@toddac61]

My well water has a PH of 8 so it is basic@@williammurray8060

[@jim5148]

My well water just has scale, which manifests itself only once it hits air.@@williammurray8060

[@joer9276]

Some pex b can use expansion fittings. Sioux chief power pex is one of them . I use it and love it. You have to check the pex labeling to determine what it’s compatibility is. Some apollo coils I’ve gotten from HD also have labeling for expansion fittings. If it lists F1960 on the pex it can use expansion fittings.

[@AKJammer1]

It really depends on your Lowe’s and Home Depot. Here in the FL panhandle, every other Big box has Pex A. As a DIYer, I switched to A a couple years ago. Much easier and faster. I was able to pick up the deWalt expansion tool on sale pretty cheap. I think harbor freight also has one.

[@Profile2.5]

I concur. Pex A availability must be a regional thing, where I live (VA) both are equally available. The manual expansion tool is about $60 and works just fine. I got mine at Harbor Freight.

[@AJXOXO-vz1pn]

My Home Depot just started carrying Pex A in addition to the Pex B that they’ve stocked for years.

[@bl_2410]

Thank you. Everyone should watch this before starting a job like this. Unbelievably helpful.

[@TS-qd2uj]

Thank you for the explanation. I had no idea there were differences until I watched this. I'll be certainly watching this if I ever do upgrades to my 70 year old house. I'm still on copper.

[@kmilton1593]

Good video and great comments. ( I built my house myself in 1987 and used good old "Poly B" with copper crimping ring connections and guess what: it has not broken once or leaked a single drop! )

[@dubmob151]

The contractor that did my plumbing used cinch type clamps for the baseboard heating connection and one of the clamps just fractured, resulting in a leak that resulted in a buckled hardwood floor and sheetrock ceiling and wall damage below. Don't know if it was bad installation or a faulty clamp, but I can't see that ever happening with copper crimp rings. The cinch clamps are easier to install especially in limited access areas, but I'm wary of their reliability having seen this failure first-hand.

[@bigglilwayne7050]

Poly B is the grandpa, I've never seen a problem with the pipe itself in all my years in the trade

[@dubmob151]

@@bigglilwayne7050 how about the cinch clamps? is that a common failure point?

[@bigglilwayne7050]

@@dubmob151 Cinch clamps are not only the best option, but they're by far the most versatile, too... For instance, say you come across a faulty aluminum 1/2 tee w/aluminum crimp ring on Poly B... Rather than using 3 PB/Pex transition adapters and a standard 1/2 Pex tee with copper crimp rings, all you need is the standard 1/2" pex tee and 3 cinch clamps.... I've done hundreds of them and never had the first leak or call back

[@dubmob151]

@@bigglilwayne7050 it didn't seem like the cinch clamps would be a likely failure point, but I've seen it firsthand. The way they're constructed makes it less durable than a copper crimp ring, where I can't imagine one of those ever failing the same way. Naturally the cinch type clamps are much easier to install in tight places, so that may be the only option, so there's no avoiding them.

[@wchougland1]

I have a 70 year old cabin with a mix of steel, copper & galvanized pipe. Been considering PEX, so you’ve provided additional info I need to make the jump. Thank you

[@Mike-01234]

Good idea old plumbing going to have lead solder and depending on the PH of the water could leach it out into your water. This is what happened in Flint, Michigan. Lead was leeching into the water. If water is good quality low THD it will leech or pull from the pipes.

[@dllion3196]

The biggest problem with Pex A is the clamps breaking. I have had more leaks in our new house built 9 years ago than I had in 30 plus years in our previous house which had copper piping. I believe Today’s solder does not contain lead.

[@laroberts303]

@@dllion3196 I thought clamps were for Pex B and expansion rings are used on Pex A. Did you confuse the two or did you mean to say the expansion rings are breaking?

[@dllion3196]

@@laroberts303 They are clinch clamps.

[@laroberts303]

@@dllion3196 Gotcha, makes sense once I reread it. As several have stated here you can use clamps on PEX A. Apparently your experience was not so great. Thanks for the clarification.

[@stevea6722]

I asked a professional plumber about PEX A around a year ago, he told me there is/was a lawsuit against the manufacturers of PEX A sealing rings because they were splitting and causing leaks. Can only imagine how big a PITA a leak in a wall would be.

[@TRUE_GR1T]

that's poly B not pex A

[@jacksplumbingvideos7147]

@@TRUE_GR1T no, uponor did have issues with defective pex.

[@ruelsmith]

The pipe behind the sealing ring ruptures. It's from over expansion, typically. Some installers use the expansion tool to stretch it a little too much, and the pipe is thinning as it stretches, so it has a much lower burst rate as the unstretched pipe. The failure usually happens where the stretched pipe is transitioning to the unstretched pipe.

[@MrDmadness]

This happens when cross linked polyethylene is expanded in cold conditions. On a molecular level a warm polly will stretch while a cold polyethylene will tear. The expansion "ring" for a 1/2" pipe is just a chunk 3/4 pipe iirc, it's been a few years since I installed wirsbo.. Anyways. Cold without using heat pack or a heat gun will result in leaks and splitting . Red seal plumber of 30+ years .

[@danielschannel701]

@@MrDmadness Good to know.

[@wdoxsee]

Many things I liked about this video - no BS, you got right to the point and stayed on it - no annoying "music", I want information not entertainment - clear verbal explanations with clear visuals to back that up - and unlike many annoying videos, you waited til the end to ask for endorsements, how can I endorse your video if I haven't seen it all (and yes, I gave a thumbs up)

[@michaelrundle5279]

Great info. Well presented. Thanks! My very first use of PEX was pex A with the expansion ring connectors. I bought a used, manual expansion tool with multiple dies on Ebay and it worked great. I have mostly bought Pex B pipe at HD and other diy stores since. For my small diy jobs, I have always used Sharkbite fittings to connect the type B pex. For most sizes 1/2" & up, the Shakrbites have a thin insert that fits inside the pipe as you insert the pipe into the fitting, I am sure there is some impact on flow, but much less I suspect than thicker fittings that go inside the pipe and are secured with external crimp rings

[@elchimpo9590]

You’ve helped America understand something that can be quite per”pex”ing 😂😂

[@SilverCymbal]

That made me laugh!

[@paulabennett3069]

😂😂😂😂

[@Huffmommy]

If you were a plumber you’d be more per”pex”ed on this guy’s education after the video

[@jacobkamphaus5565]

You mean "propexing" 😂

[@zacharyearll7046]

Good one

[@masonmitchell7942]

As a plumber, Pex B is my favorite. It’s quicker, and easier in my opinion. I’ve had more problems with pex A than pex B. Actually I’ve never had an issue with pex B…

[@Blake_the_Drake]

I've had teh exact opposite experiance, I've had nothing but issues with B and have switched to A unless I need to, and all new construction is getting A.

[@markhutchinson8295]

I agree. I personally prefer B over A. I’ve retrofitted enough homes from poly to pex and B, if done right, is quicker in my opinion.

[@RogerPack]

What problems have you seen?

[@justanother9184]

As a 24 year plumber I love pex B as well. I get plenty of repipes sold from it. I've seen a lot of pex B fail and flood houses. Plus the pex B warranty.... is zero!!! Pex A uponor with their fittings.... 50 years. That should be rule enough alone. but yes pex B does save the home builder a grand or two.... costs the customer 10k - 20k down the road

[@LesterFoster-h1p]

I’ve been using per b with evo fittings.

[@Andrew-fr3bp]

This explains everything I needed to know! Just built a house and plumbers used PEX A. Nice to know the fittings don't actually restrict flow.

[@merlinious01]

When using pex B and not wanting to restrict flow, you upsize the pipe

[@FranktheDachshund]

@@merlinious01 Why not just use Pex A? Upsizing must cost more than switching to Pex A.

[@Tom-qx5nl]

The most informative plumbing video I've ever seen. Thanks!!

[@rafaelochoa7022]

I had no idea! About to do a project and I would’ve been clueless to type A and type B! I’m gonna go with type A not to mention the rings do better overtime because they don’t corrode if they’re exposed to moisture! Thank you for the video

[@christiangibbs8534]

THANK YOU! I had no idea that there were two different Pex systems. You have saved me some money and headaches!

[@AlexSherm]

I went with pex through my water filtration system coming out of a well. It was slightly acidic and eating away at the copper pipes. So it has that benefit too.

[@SilverCymbal]

Absolutely, pinhole leaks in copper in New England especially are a HUGE and $$$ repair, nightmare really. The Pex solves all that. That is a big big deal for sure! So glad you mentioned this

[@kimberlyjordine8115]

If your water eats copper pipe, what the hell is it doing to your body!? 🤔

[@AlexSherm]

@@kimberlyjordine8115 It is only slightly acidic. But I have a PH neutralizer installed as part of the filtration system.

[@Dr_Wrong]

@@kimberlyjordine8115 _"If your water eats copper pipe, what the hell is it doing to your body!?"_ You mean when your stomach mixes slightly acidic water with super acidic stomach acid? Nothing special.

[@MrDmadness]

​@@Dr_Wrongthis 100% . I appreciate your use of logic good sir. :)

[@adamauger6427]

In my mind the biggest advantage to Pex-A is the increased crosslinking. This means it never stops trying to return to its original size. So the pipe clamps on to the fitting forever. With pex -B you only get the clamp that the ring gives. Once you clamp it its done. I have seen B leak but never had a A fitting leak.

[@sk22ng]

As a residential builder I once had a drip on an A plug at the end of a line. I turned off the water source and opened a tap to stop the pressure and used a heat gun on the fitting to restart the ultimate memory compression process and then turned the water back on to find the connection to now be leak free.

[@vancebeazer458]

Originally there were issues with the ribs on the expansion tools because you need to rotate the expander a bit each expansion or you get a smooth spot that leaks. All the subsequent expanders auto-rotate the head so the ridges are all around the pipe . Also you need to treat the fitting carefully to not notch a ridge in the fitting.

[@acwright]

From my understanding, you can use pex b fittings on pex a, but you can't expand pex b to use pex a fittings.

[@RobotMowerTricks]

This is true. I can't recall what documentation I saw it on, but we do it all the time in the field

[@McNamEvan]

What are you girls smoking? Pex-b fittings are like 30% smaller than pex-a

[@RobotMowerTricks]

lol we might be smoking, but we can still figure this out. Yes, the fittings are a different size because the pex a pipe is stretched onto pex a fittings, so the pex a fittings are larger, but the pipe is the same size when both are not stretched. At least close enough in size so that pex a can be crimped down onto a pex b fitting.

[@jlsrr2577]

Pex a crimps just fine when I have to transition id do it any day over a shark bite fitting

[@Nebulation]

Learned some things. Good vid. I knew there were different pex. Didn't know one wasn't compatible with the other, and I didn't realize that pretty much all new construction here is pex A.

[@jamesditsch6735]

Thank you for the video. I’m replacing all the copper in my house because we have sulfur in our well water and it corrodes the copper and it then leaks.

[@RandyK1ng]

To your point about Milwaukee's tool versus a manual one, remember that the manual one does not automatically rotate, so you need to turn the tool after you squeeze open a spot to ensure even expansion all the way around the pipe. I had one situation where I could not turn the tool much putting in a refrigerator water line, and sure as heck - that's the one that leaked. I had to borrow a Milwaukee expander and re-do that fitting.

[@portertaylor945]

There are a couple of manual pex-a expansion tools with auto-rotating heads. They are a bump up in price from the non-rotating ones but are still less than the powered tools. I have not tried them.

[@brodriguez11000]

@@portertaylor945 Seems someone would make money with that as an add-on to an impact tool.

[@kylejanik6895]

To use the manual expansion tool you need three arms and three hands😂😂

[@Mike__B]

And the great thing about copper plumbing, is it doesn't matter what type you have the fittings are universal because they fit on the OUTSIDE of the pipe and the outside diameter is the same across copper regardless of how thick the walls are. I also think the idea of flow rate is really overblown and not that big of an issue in a vast majority of cases.

[@frequentlycynical642]

Here's a weird copper pipe factoid: The HVAC industry uses the same copper tubing as plumbing, but the measure and spec by the OD! 3/4" pipe for plumbers is the same as 7/8" for the AC guy!

[@69Harveyb1]

Agree on flow rates etc. Now if one were to stay in a house for the rest of their lives, I would also use type L copper. Type M, naturally is meant for water but man, that L alloy would be the right choice for me. Chances are one of my kids gets this house. (Because we all know what hard water does to soft, squishy "convenient" water tubing...)

[@matthewodonnell1856]

Type M is normally used for heating pipe. Any time you run domestic it’s usually best to go with type L.

[@me-un4jl]

That's like saying that using the right wire gauge is overblown. Sure, an undersized pipe isn't going to burn your house down, but if you actually think it doesn't matter you shouldn't be touching this stuff.

[@swp466]

My house was built in 2001 and uses Pex A. One thing that never gets mentioned is you should avoid Pex within about 15 feet of the outlet of the water heater because the high heat will cause it to become brittle over time. Mine developed a pinhole leak near the water heater (the stub out of the wall was copper, but transitioned to Pex right as it 90'd up just inside the wall, and the leak was about a foot away from that transition), and in researching the issue, I found that this issue was somewhat common. My plumber did a temp repair and sent a section of the failed tubing to Uponor, who responded by paying to have all of the 3/4" hot tubing in my entire home replaced, including all the drywall and paint repair. Of course, we made sure to use copper for the first 15 feet or so out of the water heater.

[@not0evn]

That's annoying, but surprisingly upstanding of the company.

[@HotNoob]

put in a mixing valve.

[@williammorris3303]

18-24” is the code requirement

[@Steve_Smith_OFB]

The heat does nothing. As pex "a" or "b" are used in radiant heating. And there are no issues.

[@richardchang8024]

But the water is still going to be hot if it’s on the outlet side of the WH no?

[@donaldmarwitz2046]

Great Content!❤ I still stand by doing copper plumbing on your main water. So much more stable and will outlast the Pex. Yes, cost mire and ads time but worth it, ridged, and why do you think all attachments are copper still for the mist part in todays market.

[@tvn300]

Super informative. Straight to the point with really valuable information for this experienced DIY'er with zero knowledge of PEX A, but that is what is in the new house we are buying. THANKYOU!

[@charlesward8196]

Great video to explain the difference. My truck camper is plumbed with PEX B, and I had to repair some freeze damage as one fitting did not purge when I drained the system. Pretty simple fix.

[@SilverCymbal]

Its incredible what Pex has done for RV/boats. They can handle vibration, dont leak and like you saw are so easy to repair. I had a small cabin cruiser boat years ago all plumbed with some vinyl line with miserable flow. Pex would have been so appreciated!

[@vancebeazer458]

Be sure and triple check before repairing your camper with pex,as many manufacturers use a different product that looks like pex but the fittings will leak.

[@SilentThunderer]

If I'm Joe Blow homeowner and I need to make a repair in an easily accessible area and I don't want to spend $80-$400 on specialized tools, I'[m just gonna use a Shark Bite fitting and be done with it. At some point in the next 20 years when I'm too old and fat and finally have to have a plumber come out for whatever I'm too old and fat to do...THEN I'll have him replace the Shark Bite, but until then I fail to see the benefit of overly complicating the repair with $80-$400 tools that I might use 5 times over the life off the house, especially when I know I'm gonna be too old and fat to get to where I need to use them before I recoup the cost.

[@charlestreibley9904]

You will pay for those tools after you buy only a few of those over priced "Shark Bites" compared to Pex A or B connections. Good luck with your plumber bill. Lol.

[@hankstrickland5011]

Why not replace the whole pipe? I’ve had to rip out so many shark bites by DIY. Less connections is better then fixing small sections

[@GeoffreyMorrison-xh2eo]

Under-rated.

[@TheJaythyzul]

Sharkbites lasting 20 years is laughable in my opinion. Most folks that cheap out to go the sharkbite roots probably don't think they need to ream to full bore and debur the pipe and then you end up with water damage a short time after you install your temporary fix, besides if you're going to use a push-fit fitting you ought to be using a a QuickFit instead of a Sharkbite. You're a fool if you conceal a PushFit anywhere other than a trash bin though in my opinion.

[@SilentThunderer]

@@TheJaythyzul it's an open wall situation , in an unfinished basement, in 112 year old house. Best-case situation the house burns down and I rebuild it to modern insulated standards. Relax.

[@ericapelz260]

The concern about flow through PEX B is overstated. Most sink faucets, showers, etc., are reduced down to 1/4 inch or so. Even on a 1/2 run, you will only have issues with multiple fixtures if you run them simultaneously. Properly sizing the pipe is the critical consideration. Use the correct tools, and fittings, ensure the crimp ring is placed correctly for PEX B and use your go-no-go gauge on ever crimp. When done correctly, either system works very well.

[@mycaddigo]

I have a bathroom sink that I used a lot of 90’s and it’s 1/2 inch … It’s fine …. I yet water flow is reduced. The 90’s and the reduction.. Also you are the faucets are reduced …. That is probably true xx But if you have many reductions down the line ids all gong to add up..

[@ericapelz260]

@@mycaddigo yes, but we're the 90s needed? They make a radius curve bracket that goes on the outside of the pex and is a pipe hanger. Stubouts are also a radius curve. The beauty of PEX is that you can do a manifold system where the only crimps are at the primary distribution point and the stub. You can have zero joints in the walls and floors with a carefully planned installation.

[@ericapelz260]

@@mycaddigo also, a 90 is always a reduction because of the sharp turn.

[@mycaddigo]

@@ericapelz260 yup. I then discovered the brace that make a 90 with out a fitting. Have you sent those ?

[@ericapelz260]

@@mycaddigo Yep, used plenty of them.

[@oly4490]

A few years ago I hesitated spending the money on the Milwaukee Pex A tool. Glad I made the move now. We used the Pex B on many homes and by our own fault or one in a thousand bad crimp rings, we had a leak that was tested before closing in behind drywall, Well 3 days later we had a small little spring leak and had to redo all the drywall and all. Now I never had a issue...Yet :D 👍

[@SilverCymbal]

I am glad to hear that. The repeatability of fittings is also what I love. You insert things are far as they can go, a positive stop. This is very helpful in less than ideal conditions. Pex B is ok for a lot but as you saw when the ring is slightly off postion or done wrong, leaks happen. Both systems are very good but like your experience I find A as being superior for almost all plumbing.

[@Stacker_Actual]

Love this video. I totally understand what you’re saying about the diameter being reduced at its fittings however the sharkbite couplings that work with copper and pex actually sits on the outside of your pex (for those interested in some DIY). So instead of inserting a fitting into your pipe your inserting your pipe into the fitting. Great video and thanks a ton for explaining it all!

[@Hazdazos]

I feel like this is information that should be much more common knowledge, but unfortunately isn't. Thanks for informing us homeowners about the 2 types. Even if we never use this information directly, it's something that more people should know about. I find it very irresponsible of the company that makes Pex for not differentiating between the two better.

[@patrickarsenault5201]

is isnt common knowledge because it still relatively new pex b been around forever , pex a on the other hand has only been around a bit more than a decade , professionel plumber have received training from the manufacturer about that type of plumbing and up until very recently pex a was only available to contractor and not sold in hardware stores

[@blamehypocrisy.4053]

In reality it’s actually on the consumer of a product to do the needed amount of research before using said product. The information is there, people just need to stop being so lazy and stop expecting everyone to walk them through life.

[@alwaysmatterinmotion]

The information in the video is flat wrong. The manufacturers make it very clear: it is perfectly fine to use crimp fittings with either PEX-A or PEX-B. Every major manufacturer prints a continuous stream of information identifying their product right on the piping; there is usually no problem identifying what pipe is used.

[@petset77]

Great information. I've never heard of PEX A vs B. I built my house 14 years ago, and the plumbing supply store here in Colorado offered me coils of PEX, brass or black nylon fittings, stainless rings, pex cutter, and the Zurn crimp tool (I chose not to go with "Shark Bites" for a couple of reasons). I haven't had any issues with it, and I help people with the $100 tool, as long as they get compatible rings. .....It's obvious to see the reduced size with the fittings. Lower flow compared to copper or even CPVC is part of the tradeoff, with it being more obvious with 1/2" pipe. I always thought it was because of pipe wall thickness, since these three are sized by outside diameter. Copper (L and N) is thin, so 1/2" pipe offers more flow than same sized PEX. What I've done since is keep runs 3/4" and reduce just before the fixture shutoff, and it seems to have helped. I almost always used copper when I lived in the south, but that PEX is allegedly a bit more flexible to resist breakage in some frozen pipe situations (I've since run across a couple of burst PEX pipes), it's what I use now. Anyway, thanks for the video- it just popped up on the play list.

[@guhv1386]

It is definitely the fittings that give different flow between Pex A and Pex B however, copper, galvanized, and cpvc does in fact have a slightly wider inner diameter. Not enough to notice in any situation other than tub spouts. If you install a tub and shower valve using pex for the spout, as you are running water through the spout, it will work it's way up the shower riser and come dripping out of the head. You can use pex for the shower riser, but the spout should always be ran in the others mentioned before, unless you don't personally mind a little drip from the head while filling your bath tub. As for overall volume/pressure, it all depends on the sizing of pipes ran to and through the house. Something as simple as upgrading your yard line to a bigger size can make a big difference in the volume and pressure inside your home. Even if you have a water meter with a 3/4" feed, running a 1" or 1 1/4" yard line can improve the volume and pressure inside your home

[@petset77]

@@guhv1386, I have 1" line run from my well pump to the bladder (pressure) tank, and a 30-50PSI switch. From there, it's a short 3/4" run to the tankless water heater, then to fixtures. I experience lower water pressure using regular sized fittings and pipe. It's something about the PEX, either the thicker walls of the pipe thus extended resistance to flow, or the fittings.

[@-_-John-_-]

5:20 I have NEVER heard a plumber state that he gives a shit about flow rate unless he's talking about work flow rate. 😂

[@Theredeemedchild2]

Yep then I get called out and explain to them why their plumber sucks for putting in B.

[@peterbedford2610]

Yup. Flow rate never an issue

[@CumminsTurbo4]

I always say the contractors who work on your house don't have to live there, they don't care one bit 😂

[@freemanbl]

Thanks for the awesome breakdown of this. Fast, easy watch and no unnecessary info. Great job.

[@theartisanhack1720]

Just what I was looking for...without looking. Your vid popped up out of the blue at the time I am looking to install a line to an outside spigot. Well done.

[@TundeEszlari]

Magical video, keep it up. 😘

[@SilverCymbal]

Thank you

[@justinstewart3248]

Why are you in the woods?

[@LenovoLenovo-g2f]

😂😂😂🎉

[@jjshow8572]

Cuz his house flooded

[@justinstewart3248]

@@jjshow8572 lol

[@patrickjames1080]

Brilllllliant

[@thomaskramer7723]

Who cares?? Maybe it's his back yard!!!

[@bnasty267]

I'm a fan of PEX-B, with the stainless steel clamps (cinch clamps, aka Oetiker clamps) instead of the crimp rings. It's not worth the price of the expansion tool and higher cost of PEX-A pipe for DIYers that aren't plumbing an entire house over and over again. I also trust the cinch clamps more than the more common crimp rings due their long term use in other industries like automotive and pressurized beverages. I think it's worth it to buy the brass fittings instead of the plastic ones: fittings are going to be 99% of where your leaks are.

[@alexanderlavoie5461]

Agreed, i also think the brass fittings have a thinner wall for kore flow as well.

[@justadbeer]

I agree. I just piped in a new water softener and Used Pex B. My kid already owned a manual crimp tool for the crimp rings, so I went that way, but it was a huge PITA, especially in tight places. I think the cinch clamps would have been much easier. Of course going from 3/4" copper pipe, I went up one size in Pex to 1" to make up for the brass fittings.

[@MrDmadness]

This may blow your mind but brass fittings often leak much sooner than plastic ones, it especially matters depending on your water source. Yellow brass will lose nickel to many water compositions, especially those with chlorine ( embrttlement of the yellow brass occurs ) respectfully intended

[@MrDmadness]

​@@justadbeeryou are not understanding the use of "cinch clamps" these are still squeezed by a tool that has a long yoke.. we are not talking gear clamps here.. if we ARE then they will 100% leak in time.. crimp rings have been used since Polly b.

[@scottwatts3879]

I use Sioux Chief PowerPEX B and expansion fittings. PowerPEX B can be used as either with expansion or crimping. I bought the Milwaukee expander and it's a hoot to use. Expand, stick in the fitting and let it contract. Five minutes later and it's waterproof. During the five minutes you can be working on the rest of your connections. It's like stick toys for plumbing.

[@scooby0068]

Awesome video to learn an old dog the new piping issues and stay out of trouble! Thank you!

[@cajunman6892]

OK, Chemist/Physicist here. Also 50+ years home & aircraft building. The way I look at is that PEX A is expended from it's 'natural' size, and will forever be wanting to return to that size, but there is a fitting keeping it from doing so. This means a forever seal. PEX B on the other hand is naturally bigger then the fittings, and is forever trying to expand to leak. The only thing stopping it is the crimp fitting (which I don't trust as lasting forever). PEX A is inherently more stable, reliable, in addition to better flow rate. Oh, great video, I'll be sharing.

[@RH3949]

You forgot to add. That test have shown that when froze and with higher pressure. Pex A will fail before Pex B

[@davidjacobs8558]

@@RH3949 I guess they could make metal crimp ring to go over plastic expansion ring for Pex A system to prevent freezing problem.

[@jimmypautz]

Pex B has higher chemical resistance and higher burst/freeze resistance. There are some areas where the water composition will break down PEX A over time. They even had to get rid of the color PEX A to mitigate this, but it is still susceptible in some cases. For most people this isn't an issue, though. There are also some PEX B brands that support expansion. Like others stated, you can minimize fittings or upsize the pipe to deal with the flow issues of standard PEX B.

[@1976smb]

What water composition will cause PEX A to break down over time? I had some work done ten years ago, and I have moderately hard water, so I'm a bit concerned. I "think" what was done to my shower is PLEX A.

[@jimmypautz]

@@1976smb I think higher levels of chlorine/chloramine are the biggest cause. I think the failure rate is very low, but it can happen.

[@HisboiLRoi]

Only Uponer had issues with colored PEX. Most manufacturers add the pigments and stabilizers to the plastic formula as a part of the extrusion process, but prior to cross-linking. Uponor used a heating system to add a colored coating to the pipe after it was extruded. Red and blue PEX A is still readily available from multiple manufacturers. This includes Uponor, so I assume they have modified their coloration process.

[@melmartinez7002]

The color issue is old news. The chlorine sensitivity is still there but not a real issue for the vast majority of folks. If you have well water it won’t be chlorinated. If you have chlorinated municipal water you can remove it with a filter system that uses activated charcoal.

[@mrDmastr19]

To make this video a tad more accurate: in most cases A and B use different fittings. But these days- Zurn makes what that call Pex B referred to as “Zurn B” which uses the same expansion fittings as traditional A like Uponor. However Zurn B has proved to be little more reliable. In recent years they have found that traditional Uponor Pex A has had problems with water that is high in mineral content because it is typically ridden with forever chemicals and acids. And it literally turns the Pex A yellowish and can crack or fail in as little as 7 years. It’s a bummer because it wasn’t a fail on the pipe and fittings more than it was a fail on the water quality control. Now Zurn B hasn’t seen this same issue as Uponor Pro Pex A: it’s a slightly different polyethylene, side by side it’s brighter colored, and it technically has a higher psi rating then A, it’s a little more hard and you can see when expanding it it works the tool harder. But it is probably the best system on the current market. Ironically traditional B using the crimp rings, was looked at as the “home owner” Pex or “China Pex” that is also a slightly different polyethylene then traditional A, and it doesn’t see the yellowing, but it still inferior because of failing crimps and also a technically loss of flow when side by side comparing pipe size to size for Traditional B vs A. Point is, right now Zurn B is the best and go with that- it’s basically traditional A but better. Also add in: if you have typical Pro Pex A Uponor. Don’t freak and think you have to repipe tomorrow because you see signs of yellowing. The good news is- it is fairly easy to repair, and most of it is easily accessible in ceilings, walls and attics so you’ll know when it fails early on and shouldn’t have a massive flood. just shut your water off at your house if your leaving for a vacation etc.

[@TJCZNIK]

Zurn also has their own fittings and their own expansion jaws for your expansion tool

[@ConsolGameR]

So much information so fast I had to play it back twice! Great video!

[@JJDBaca]

Happened upon this video by chance, and glad I did. This is GREAT info to have before starting a tiny home build. Cheers.

[@johnknightiii1351]

A vs B has nothing to do with expansion and crimping. It is the manufacturing process. Zurn is Pex B that is expandable and crimpable. Each pipe has its own rating for being able to expand or crimp and you need to look at the specs to find out which you can use.

[@ohger1]

Correct, and A can be crimped. The dimensions of both are identical. The fittings are different diameter.

[@crazy-es8tr]

great video

[@SilverCymbal]

Much appreciated

[@mattstiglic]

As a plumber of 20+ years, the benefits of pex a are minimal at best. Pex b is also sold at all local supply houses. It does not require any expensive tools to install, can be easily bent to minimize fittings, and the friction loss is really a non issue as long as you size your home runs/crotons properly. Remember, the insides of ALL your fixtures at the end of all your pipe runs, regardless of which pex you choose, is still almost always 3/8" or less. It's a non issue.

[@woozledog]

PEX B leaks all the time. Stop it. And ONE 3/8 ID valve is less restrictive than 20 3/8 ID fittings in the line, genius

[@mattstiglic]

@woozledog installed correctly, no it doesn't. If it did, I would have been out of a job 10 years ago. And yes, the ID issue is a non-issue, as long as your pipe sizing is correct. I've installed miles of both. There is no noticeable difference at the end of the day.

[@woozledog]

@mattstiglic well I Love copper. An a most people do. I do mostly repair work until recently, and I guess I'm biased because of these fking diy homeowners, man.. And the problem 90% of the time was not strapping the shit literally anywhere except a valve if you're lucky. When I do start doing PEX, it's gonna be A though. I mean it's underground rated right?

[@peterbedford2610]

I've been installing pex B for 10 years. No issues at all.

[@mattstiglic]

@woozledog right, so any product installed improperly is going to have a higher failure rate, that goes for copper too. And pex B can be buried as well.

[@stonesauer5781]

Excellent video explanation !!To each their own & even though it's more expensive I'll just stick w/ copper....No drinking of micro plastics or slime from the build up or the breakdown of plastics inside the lines.

[@cameronpresley5771]

Its food grade plastic. There is no leaching.

[@RJ-qh2px]

Wow - someone who actually knows what they're talking about and gets to the point. Thanks for restoring my faith in the Internet.

[@markbernier8434]

I don't think you emphasized the flow rate issue enough. I had a couple of places in my build where I ripped out 1/2" pex and replaced with 3/4" copper to get enough flow. Copper fittings go outside the tubing of course. The difference was huge. Also, the reduced load on my pump was significant as well.

[@vancebeazer458]

and you switched to 3/4 copper. You would also note a huge improvement if you had switched to 3/4” pex A. I would never supply with 1/2’ and then t off more branches

[@BenotzJoe]

Flow rate is not normally a design constraint in plumbing. Most of the pressure drop occurs at the appliance/valve. If for some reason it is a concern, you should probably be using the next larger size pipe anyway.

[@vancebeazer458]

Seriously ?…

[@robertbridgham4092]

The other drawback to Pex is rodents. They love the plastic and chewing pex to get a nice drink. As much as copper has its disadvantages, rodents don’t tend to chew through it.

[@GeoffreyMorrison-xh2eo]

Just insulate it with those foam tubes. They hate them.

[@higherho1540]

Three versions. A, B, and C for water lines. Now for heating, you can do PEX AL.