Grafting Lesson #11: After Graft's Heal, What To Do

[@yankeeapple5615]

A+ , it took me ten years of reading and experimenting to learn half of what's in this video 👍

[@SkillCult]

Thanks. I had a bit of grafting under my belt before I moved here, but once I could really start doing a lot, it helped me understand better.

[@jonshannon4922]

This is a video that covers topics that few, if any, other grafting videos ever cover. It is excellent. Many people new to grafting have questions about what to do after the graft starts to grow. Also the video and audio quality are superb. Well done.

[@SkillCult]

Thanks Jon :)

[@bob_frazier]

Wow! Not a wasted second, and answered tons of questiobs! Awesome.

[@jamesrockland9616]

26 minutes of invaluable information, well presented and filmed; I rarely subscribe to any channels but had to here after viewing your vid

[@InPrimer]

To your closing comments about getting the word out so grafting becomes normal...i agree. And it’s amazing how abnormal it is to the general public. I don’t go out of my way to brag about my apple grafting hobby but sometimes it just comes up when we have friends over or whatever. The reaction is universally one of awe. Either because: A) people aren’t aware it’s even possible B) people are aware that it’s possible but assume that it’s only for horticulture geniuses. And even then almost no one realizes you can graft dozens or hundreds of varieties on a single tree.

[@SkillCult]

Yeah, most think it is somehow inaccessible to regular folks. I want to work on that more, like more easy vids that make it simple to get started.

[@WaterLilly91]

I am also one of those who cannot stop doing further graftings on one apple tree!

[@Melody-en6xn]

Wow this is good! First video is see covering this!

[@markhull9156]

Always so well, and authentically, explained. No substitute for time spent doing the work - thanks for sharing your experience.

[@SkillCult]

Thanks Mark ;)

[@TheLaLaFarm]

Just finished the last video in the grafting series. This is the best grafting series of videos on KZbin. Well done. - Rick

[@SkillCult]

Thanks Rick :)

[@shh963]

Thank you for all of these videos on grafting, last winter when I bought some stone fruit Scion, they were thin and were also budding, one was starting to flower! I think we just had an season here last year. The St Julian rootstocks I bought for them, 9/10 never woke up anyway, so wasn’t a great year!

[@tdtrecordsmusic]

wow, truly world class. This stuff would take newcomers generations to learn !! thnx 4 sharing !!

[@sleepinggiant882]

Your KZbin channel has got to be the most underrated channel out there. Such good quality content!

[@Jhossack11]

Ah yes, Skilly in his element. Good stuff Holmes.

[@AubMar]

Another Excellent knowledge share of the Do's and Don't's of graft caretaking - Thank you so much!

[@TediumGenius]

Just finished this series, and I'm hooked! I closed a purchase on an acre of land with 8 neglected Winesap trees, one that'll likely die within the next two years due to a very significant base trunk scar. (I may try a pretty involved bridge graft to try to bring structure back to the damaged side, if I can excavate to a good, solid root base.) Your realistic and practiced approach is a real confidence booster- I prefer honest risk assessment to someone beating their chest and (lying) that they're the best ever, nothing goes wrong, etc., and I think that's what you offer in your material! I'll be starting the "Smart Fruit Tree..." series next. Located in Central Pennsylvania, this will be my first home orchard, and I can't wait to get started! Thanks for your hard work on your channel and for bringing practical lessons that are within reach of a novice like myself!

[@SkillCult]

Thanks, glad to be of use :)

[@OakKnobFarm]

Thanks as always for your content. My baby orchard only has a half dozen trees, and they're still basically whips. This info is invaluable to me, and I would like to thank you again for your efforts. And my SkillCult Bulgarian Giant Leeks are looking great, too (year 2)

[@SkillCult]

I'm growing leeks again this year and hoping for another seed crop. Just got them in the ground. I lost all my potato onion and shallot stock though and will be looking for someone to send me back some.

[@OakKnobFarm]

@@SkillCult Oh no! I wish I had gotten some of that stock from you, but sadly I only grabbed the leeks.

[@Shaun.Stephens]

Thanks for this Steven. It's hard to find videos on grafting that are 'here's one I prepared earlier' style and show the evolution of a grafted limb / tree.

[@SkillCult]

Been kind of waiting for the right timing on this... and flaking out a few seasons :)

[@HerrKarliseppel]

Perfectly. Thanks from germany ... and quite easy to understand for non-native english speakers

[@WimsMill]

Thank you! I was really wondering about these things. I have about 50 bench grafted trees and was pinching back the suckers below the graft and removing everything directly below the graft. But I see now that I can be a bit more aggressive. Keep up the good work! You already have won over 1 person.

[@SkillCult]

it's mostly about the extension. They will open out at first, but they have to start extending before you can be sure that they are getting resources from the stock. After that it's not as thought nothing can go wrong, but once there is about an inch of healthy growth all suckers and extra shoots are best removed to drive growth into the leader.

[@jameskniskern2261]

I live in Kentucky, and have bird planted callery pears. Perfect for playing frankentree with pears. Both Asian pears and Euro pears have taken on my frankentrees. Thanks for this.

[@jameskniskern2261]

AAAAAnd after watching this video last night, we had high winds and rain blow through. Knocked 2 of my plum grafts right off the tree. I had backups (I always graft more than I need and take off things later.) Anyway, I spent a couple hours today splinting the rest of my plum grafts. I really like the plastic bag strips idea. Easy to work with and now the grafts are protected for another couple of months. Thanks again.

[@SkillCult]

Yeah, wind can do a number. especially if only half of the graft heals it is much weaker. Good, long wraps and with multiple wraps, not just one layer can really help. Splints work wonders for especially vulnerable grafts.

[@ShyArtist52]

Thank you so much for making this series of videos! They are so helpful!

[@quintond.7888]

Great stuff, thank you Steven.

[@RockyMountainTesla]

Interesting analogy about the arm, always learning something new when I watch your videos!

[@SkillCult]

too bad we can't sprout new ones, but pretty sure that's coming...

[@Shaun.Stephens]

@@SkillCult We just need to use CRISPR (for some grafting) and some axolotl DNA....

[@gopxrock4950]

Nice video. As home grower, experiment is just fine. I grafted a nectarine onto a peach last year during late summer or early fall. The graft does not do anything at all that year. The heat was very brutal as it get over 100 degree. Some survived and bear flowers in Spring as there are flower bud in those cutting branches. Then it fruited. I'm letting the fruits grow.

[@beeneverywhereman]

Just great! Thanks for doing this! It's difficult to find practical techniques like this.

[@seandugan8628]

I can't express enough how much I love your comparison to human arm grafting. Like we're in so deep here to imagining being a tree that I'm almost convinced that's how human growth works. Also this video answers a bunch of questions, so good.

[@nimrodayali5645]

Exactly the information that's hardest to find on the web. immensly helpful. Thanks!

[@SkillCult]

Glad it was helpful!

[@daiprout323]

Perfect timing buddy. I've preemptively just tied one graft to the branch above to give it some support for the weight of the fruit

[@SkillCult]

Often a splint will serve really well for protecting the graft union. I grafted a scion over 2 feet long with a long bamboo splint, almost horizontal off the tree. I just left it on for the whole season, if not into the next year, Can't remember, but it worked.

[@pingpaj]

Excellent video, you covered so many informative data and tips! Thank you

[@suburbanhomesteaderwy-az]

Fantastic video Steve. I always learn so much from you.

[@SkillCult]

Thanks :)

[@TheLaLaFarm]

Fancy seeing you in here Sandi - I just finished watching the entire grafting playlist - by far - the best series of instructional grafting videos on the Tube. - Rick

[@dennisb1224]

I did my first grafts this year. I already forgot which varieties I put on. I hope to put my best apples on the many wild trees on my property.

[@SkillCult]

It's great to have access to wild trees or any others to work over. I don't have that here too much.

[@broooseh5077]

Why would,d you want to remember what you grafted when you can guess and be surprised later? 😅. I do the same thing in my garden. I have no idea what is what coming up.

[@tylerstone2917]

Thank you again for your in depth explanations and for sharing your knowledge. It is greatly appreciated.

[@SkillCult]

You are welcome. thanks for watching.

[@pingpaj]

Thanks for this “advanced” course on grafting!

[@SkillCult]

You're welcome.

[@geriannroth449]

Gosh I'm so satisfied I found your channel I've just started grafting just late last year I haven't done much but I've been reasonably successful maybe 70% of the grafts took. But I've found you videos have seriously dispelled my fear factors of failing and for that I thank you immensely. I've found using small cable ties significantly helps in encouraging & ensuring grafts take especially "drawing" mature wood together what's your option on this?

[@edibletropicaltrees]

I've had birds land on a graft and brake them off. I like the idea of having a support stick wrapped in to support the graft. Thanks

[@SkillCult]

It should not be necessary, except on really long or heav grafts. But when you need it, it really makes a difference. Usually lots of tight wraps do the trick. Also long grafts! A common "mistake' is making short grafts. They are mechanically much weaker. Ideally, the graft cut is 4 times or more longer than the scion is in diameter, preferably more.

[@Anasorsit]

Nice and informative video, much appreciated.

[@mauricebrown24]

Outstanding video. Thanks

[@tavyfavorite1149]

Great info vedio. Can I use plumbing pvc tape instead of parafilm?

[@dennislanigan1082]

Extremely helpful! I successfully grafted some scions from you onto rootstock and was wondering what the next steps were. Thanks!

[@SkillCult]

Just don't get too curious and unwrap really early :)

[@geologotejano]

Well done. Thank you

[@MrChickadee]

Awesome sauce video! Have you ever heard of/tried tying two small scions together which are both stuck in one cleft graft, letting them grow into one branch? I saw that somewhere and did not know if its a good idea or not. Also, would it be advisable/possible in a interstem graft where the top failed and the Bud 9 is left to grow out to just chip or T bud onto that Bud 9 in late summer?

[@SkillCult]

I was just thinking of that recently, but I think probably because some one brought it up. I would take a slice off the side of each scion so they will actually graft together. But you'll still get a super narrow crotch unless you cut one short. I'm not sure there are a lot of places where it would be super beneficial, but if so, yeah, why not? You could chip bud in the summer once the stock is larger and hardening up a little and you have new wood with dormant buds on it. That is how it is more typically be done at least, but I'm sure you can get away with using more mature buds or even dormant wood if you have any left.

[@dlbuffmovie]

OMG!! Two of my superstars talking to each other!!! LOL. Ya'll have both contributed to our move to, and plans for, our VT space!

[@SkillCult]

Basically, if you can make the graft and it's stiff enough to pull it off, you're probably good. Usually that is when the wood is starting to mature off a bit, but if you can find good buds on a donor and get it to take and heal, you might even be able to cut and start growing the top this year. but the thing with the. interstem is that you want an interstem at least 8 inches long, so you have to graft near the top. So, depending on how long your season is, how fast they grow and harden off, etc, etc.... May ore may not be practical. If it doesn't get you growth this year, there is not much advantage, if any.

[@johnparkerthegimpygardener]

I started a few years back putting foil over my graft and scion. They would grow out and then we would get the intense sun and it would kill the scions and new growth that were not shaded . It works wonders . here we go from winter to summer any more . I now keep a role of foil in my grafting bag .

[@SkillCult]

Cool, I have used paper bags, but don't normally. I should try the tinfoil on dicey grafts.

[@SkillCult]

It's "Sugarwood" BTW :)

[@mdl17576]

This video is a great addition to your grafting series. I've recommended the whole series many times in various places on reddit. Thanks for selling me a sweetwood scion a while back. Both grafts I was able to make it seem to be taking. On another note, any update on the bees from your recent video?

[@SkillCult]

Bees are still there. I missed a swarm yesterday, but I just wasn't up for the scramble since I was literally just finishing a four day water fast! Holy crap, I just went and checked and they are still there this evening! Maybe if they are there in the morning I'll go for it, or start something tonight... Thanks for pushing this series. So many people try grafting and end up loving it. One of the most valuable things people with fruit trees can learn.

[@jonnsmusich]

REALLY useful. Love your videos!

[@SkillCult]

:)

[@stephenluna7932]

I'm super excited for my frankin tree

[@marcelmajercik8374]

I am using flexiband , It stretches like hell, you can get a tight wrap and the best thing is it falls apart with the weather and grow. I think its natural rubber. Parafilm falls apart as well, but keeps a tight wrap for the first weeks, enough for the graft to take.

[@SkillCult]

I should try that. I've used rubber bands, but not a lot. A real natural latest rubber like that would be a lot less landfill.

[@moobcars6490]

Love your channel!

[@Jay-tk7ib]

I've wrapped grafts for years with black electrical tape, and I've never had a problem with girdling. And you never have to worry about it, because it will come off on it's on the following year. I've had plenty of other problems, but not with girdling.

[@SkillCult]

That's what I hear. I've used it here and there, but never favored it for cost and it can peel some of the outer bark off. One viewer said he just used it upside down. Eliza Greenman also just told me she likes it and never sees any girdling. I'm interested in trying it for long splinted grafts that can be left wrapped for two or more years. It also varies a LOT in strechiness. the cheap stuff can be pretty stiff, but quality e tape is very pliable and strechy. Expense is kind of an issue compared to a cheap roll of budding tape. I'll go through a whole roll of it some years. That stuff stretches pretty well too tho. I like to encourage people to use what's around to get started with. maybe I'll put in a season with e tape and see how I like it.

[@Jay-tk7ib]

@@SkillCult You can go over the e tape with Parafilm, or wax, and you're set.

[@codyleejones5317]

So much good info here. Thank you. What kind of soil do you like best for your new grafts? Topsoil? Potting soil?

[@SkillCult]

I will put them in either a garden bed or even in place if they can get enough care. Usually a year in a bed, then move to permanent location. I don't usually do much soil prep. they can be fed from the top with topdressing or liquie ferts.

[@billmccaffrey1977]

Thanks for the great review.

[@SkillCult]

You're welcome.

[@InPrimer]

Ive thought about putting an ad on facebook offering to graft edible varieties onto their yard type crabapples. Doubt I could charge enough to make it profitable but it might be fun.

[@daiprout323]

Not got many clients yet, here in a UK city, but doing a few, for the love of it... The cash will come eventually

[@SkillCult]

I think if you get the word out right and have the wood to back it up, it could be very successful. You need to advertise the benefits, like what varieites, season extention, red flesh etc.. I've thought about it.

[@Shaun.Stephens]

Now I have four of my own successfully grafted Hass avocados that I grafted last year (so I have a scion supply) I've got a few people (friends) who want me to graft their established but non-fruiting avocado trees they grew from seed. (It's winter here in New Zealand.) If it works out well I might advertise doing it as a service as there are quite a lot of people who grow avo pips, plant them but years later have no fruit.

[@HacknBuild]

It's a neat idea, but be prepared to spend a lot of $ on Facebook ads. A grafting kit with scion wood and everything that you need to graft might be a better distribution method. Would love to hear if you end up doing this.

[@HacknBuild]

Got crabs? 🦀 Turn any flowering crab tree into an edible apple tree! 🍎🍏

[@dlbuffmovie]

Grafts in VT are starting to leaf! (....and your's already growing?!?! sigh.) Good info and my first two frankens are off to an ok start so far.

[@SkillCult]

yeah, it's pretty mild here. Yay, more frankentrees!

[@lucyenemaku8801]

I have never grafted and I want to start but I don't even know the abc of it. Please, can you link me to your earlier video on grafting - beginner's guide? Thanks in anticipation of your response.

[@SkillCult]

Here is the whole playlist kzbin.info/aero/PL60FnyEY-eJAWNlofdsx0G81aycmAW1U8

[@geriannroth449]

Another question the gaps in an old or reasonably young graft union can I fill it with a mixture of sawdust & wood glue or wax? Also can you recommend a good book which list the geniuses of fruit trees especially tropical or subtropical trees so that I can see options I can use to know what's compatible to graft on to what. Also how do you know which plants in the same genus to use as the rootstock or instead use as the scion?

[@blakewilliams7612]

After bench grafting, is there a period of time you wait to let the graft take before planting out? Or what is your typical routine after bench grafting?

[@mytech6779]

My first year with any significant grafting. I tried parafilm, survey flagging tape, and red rubber grafting bands (3/8"x8", 0.02" thick). I really like the rubber banding so far, easy to work with, gives a good even firm pressure and can still expand a bit with growth, I get about two layers on a typical graft. It seems to last for several months although red rubber should break down in the sun over the summer. The parafilm has its place, like bud-grafting and wrapping a scion if you don't have a jug of doc farwells, but it broke down really fast(3-4 weeks) even in a mild cloudy climate. It broke up much faster on some grafts than others so it may have a bit to do application, like how much pre-stretch or the number of wraps. The surveyors flagging tape works well for large diameters like rind grafts, my old rolls are from two sources and there is noticeable difference in thickness and stretch(the thicker is textured too, maybe to aid marking) it probably works about like your plastic bag strips but a bit thinner and easier to stretch. Super cheap, one inch wide, and the bright colors help me spot the grafts later.( I can also use it for short term labeling of grafts)

[@mytech6779]

I was a bit late as the trees had major bud swell and some were even mid flower, I would call it spring grafting rather than dormant. I still need to try summer budding. I had fairly poor success rate with spring budding, but most of the whole-wood scion grafts took. (I aimed for 2-4 buds per scion unless they were closely-spaced tip wood) Even considering the higher number of grafts that can be made with single buds, the whole scions still had a higher net-yield of successful grafts. Most scions used whip and tongue, a couple small cleft, and a couple of mid branch rind grafts. Buds were a mix of chip-bud and T-bud, the only two that took were chip.

[@Jay-tk7ib]

Try black electrical tape to secure the graft, then go over that with the Parafilm. Works great.

[@mytech6779]

@@Jay-tk7ib I'll give the electrical tape a try since I have random old rolls laying around anyway, but I don't see the purpose of parafilm over electrical tape as the tape is already waterproof.

[@SkillCult]

I've used flagging tape and remember it working well. I might get some more just for that to try it more. some if very stretchy. I use it to mark pollinations, different colors in different years usually. I've used rubber bands, but never bought the strips. I think Jerry is probably saying wrap the graft union with e tape and the scion with parafilm to control moisture loss.

[@mytech6779]

@@SkillCult I would call it moderate stretch. I haven't tried it on normal 1/2" grafts as I have other stuff that works well, but I like it for wrapping grafts on 2" diameter.

[@mamurra22]

You mentioned at some point heated tape or something used to help grafts take in some climates. Would there be any benefit to using strips of black plastic bags vs white?

[@SkillCult]

I think it would be okay and it would certainly stay warmer. I know people that only use electrical tape, so it should be fine. I suppose in a super hot climate it might cook them though.

[@RILRIL1]

Can you briefly describe the first half of your growing season? I live in southern Maine and it a very different timeline up here. We had a light frost on June 1st. When is your typical last frost? I just trying to gauge how different the timing is between your videos and my orchard.

[@SkillCult]

It used to be pretty warm, with no rain in June lol. But not any more. summer comes later now. We are usually good by the end of april, and often even early april, but safest is still end of april. However, I can graft in February sometimes and get away with it, which you could never do, so last frost only means so much. Our lows are rarely below 20 f.

[@spider5001]

Hey friend🙂 aAn off topic question. Have you noticed they discontinued the council boys axe with the red paint and unfinished handle? As far as I can tell all they have done is remove the paint and put some kind of finish on the handle. They call it a sport utility. Have you had a chance you get your hands on one?

[@sergebaz15]

7:00 you have turkey?)

[@sandycay4085]

I heard to spray fungicide on healed grafts after success. What do you think if that’s the good idea or not? Which fungicide do you recommend?

[@SkillCult]

I don't spray anything. I'm not sure why you would need to.

[@thegretnaexperiment2.021]

You’re an amazing teacher 🤩💗 Thanks to you I’ve grafted onto two mulberries and a pear and will framework graft onto an old ornamental crabapple. This video had great content for newbs like me. Do you have any videos in between stages, like when you’re out in the field checking grafts? I know it takes a few weeks but just like with seeds I’m checking after a few days 😂

[@SkillCult]

not really, because once you graft, it's mostly hands off. You don't want to unwrap early, or they can break and you don't need to unwrap at all unless it is constricting. Don't fuss with them too much ;)

[@AncientHippie]

In case I missed it, on your bench grafts how long do you leave the wrapping on after you get new growth? (hope I said that right) I have to say this was my first try at grafting and because of watching your videos I got 3 of 4 to sprout new growth.....THANK YOU!

[@SkillCult]

If there is no serious constriction of the graft union, there is no reason to unwrap. Some wrappings can even be left on and will fall apart by pressure of the sun. If it is starting to restrict, unwrap and rewrap if it seems too early. Most are healed enough by july sometime.

[@AncientHippie]

@@SkillCult Excellent, and thanks for the quick reply!

[@gabeolson-jensen8676]

You should try doing some spring chip buds. You use a lot less wood

[@SkillCult]

I've used them, but rarely have a need to use them or to conserve a lot of wood. Used them when adding a branch on the side of something small. Might come in handy for benchgrafts if wood is in short supply. Do you use them on benchgrafts?

[@gabeolson-jensen8676]

SkillCult yep I use them for my Honeycrisp crossed seedlings I have a really good success rate. I get the rootstock from Copenhaven In February and give them a extra month or two of growth. Have you thought of using Honeycrisp as a parent in your crosses?

[@mytech6779]

I had a horrible success rate with early spring bud grafts, so low that I actually use less wood with 4 bud scions. (Not that it matters for me, I only want 1-2 successful grafts of each variety for my collection) By "early spring" I mean around bloom. (USDA zones mean very little in my area)

[@jeremybyington]

I literally did around 25 chip buds in late February in zone 6. Only one is still attached but still looks dead. I used the parafilm and also covered them in foil. Nooooope.

[@tracygrove3484]

Could you go to a nursery (usually $30-40) and buy good sized apple tree and cut that back to graft your scions on instead of starting with small rootstock to speed up the process? I've got an old 40+ year Buckley Giant Apple that nearly blew over last year. One large root is exposed and you can literally bounce on it. I cut nearly 1/2 the tree off to bring the weight back into balance and the tree is doing well and pushed up some great scion wood. Would love to save this tree. It's a great Apple with some challenges like scab and bitter pit.

[@SkillCult]

You certainly could do that, but I'm not sure how much it would gain you. If it's potted it could be root bound, which means you 'll have to cut and tease out the roots anyway. If it's a bare root, big two year trees are not all the advantageous in my experience over whips. But you can't find whips. New bare root rootstock has very little root, so you might be a little ahead using a two year old large bare root. I think that's a reasonable approach. I would cut it back pretty low and graft a couple scions on if there is room for two. That will give you insurance and you can cut the extra one off after you are sure you have good strong growth on the best of the two. Or even wait til the following year to cut it off so it helps heal over the stub quicker.

[@tracygrove3484]

​@@SkillCult Thanks for the input & advice. I was thinking of planting this year to graft on it the next too. But those scions are huge! Some maybe 18"? The trees I'm thinking of are pretty large, like, 8-10' &well branched out and likely root bound where the root ball is too small for the tree anyways? Just wasn't sure if this would be too much of a shock for it.

[@SkillCult]

@@tracygrove3484 I'd probably go with a bare root tree, graft it this year, just like a new rootstock. Just pick small scion wood if you can find any.

[@Considerers]

I only recently started following the videos on this channel and am currently catching up on the Grafting series, but im wondering which State these videos are recorded in? As a European it would offer some interesting context for me to know which approximate part of the US to associate this with

[@SkillCult]

I'm in California. It's a Mediterranean climate, so probably similar to parts of greece, maybe southern france. I've never been, but Places that it's a dry all summer and lots of rain in the winter. Lows are around 20 far

[@Considerers]

@@SkillCult Allright, thanks! And I appreciate the details

[@VanSantHaus]

I just watched our apple butter video, is there any possibility it could get you sick if there is no visible and or smell problems? I have been trying to learn more about storing things without using a fridge and some things about it freak me out and I am not sure how likely they are like Botulism... again idk what other type of sickness we could get from food storage without a fridge but am curious your opinion on it.

[@Pwn3dbyth3n00b]

Can you graft apple trees mid summer

[@SkillCult]

You can chip bud using the current season's wood (see video on chip budding with mark albert) and even graft new wood if you take all the leaves and shoots off. You can also use dormant wood from the winter if it's still good, but in all cases, it might heal but not grow well, or not grow at all the first year. Usually you can get them to grow the following year though.

[@bob_frazier]

My "Frankenstein" tree thanks you!

[@joshua511]

I did my first grafts (cherry scion on Mazzard rootstock) and my understanding is we're supposed to keep the scion out of the sun for a bit so I put them in pots. Is this a good idea or should I plant in ground now? (March, Missouri). I'm thinking of either waiting a few weeks to see if everything looks good then transplanting to the food forest or keep in pots until this fall and then transplant. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

[@SkillCult]

It is okay to hold it in a pot for a while. some people make the grafts and heal them a bit before planting them out. I you can keep it well watered and fed, pots are okay for a year too. I prefer to put stuff in the ground, but I'm not very good at keeping pots well watered.

[@jamesbrandongooch]

Steven, where are you man? Miss you buddy ❤️

[@jeremybyington]

I spent $40 on a bunch of apple scions and rootstocks. I can confirm that you cannot do chip bud grafts in the early spring. 🥴 At least I still have the rootstocks growing strong.

[@projectmalus]

That's the great part when the rootstock grows back and gives another chance to bud, I've some that are in their third year and have awesome roots. I have to dig up my stocks and new trees to overwinter inside (deep snow and voles do much damage) and this root prunes the trees. Also, if a bud definitely has failed, try to pick a sprout from the rootstock that is as low as possible, to cut back to, since this keeps the whole thing from getting too high up. The sprout should grow enough to t-bud in August, if the roots are good. You maybe did the chip buds a bit early, try to have the scions dormant and the stock just starting to sprout. Chip buds are good, especially for pears, but remember don't match the bark up, match the cambium! They are less work than grafting and show results the same year, unlike t-buds.

[@SkillCult]

I've done them successfully, but probably only on established stock. I'm not sure though. One I did is actually the cover of a Greek book on organ transplants and the immune system or something like that. I don't know, it's greek to me ha ha. but they contacted me about using the photo. Anyway, in that case I was adding a branch into the side of a whip, where there was no branch. I used more scion than the average sloped chip though. I cut out half the stem, like a half cylinder. I usually consider it more of a benefit than a problem to have more scion wood on a graft. I figure it's just that much more resource for the new growth to draw on. I've grafted apple scion over 2 foot long onto new clonal stocks. many times actually, and I'm not the only one. Chips don't have a lot of resource to hold them over, so I would think very good moisture control. Otherwise, I'm not sure. maybe grafting when weather is warm enough to heal them very quickly. It could be neat to be able to chip bud into first year whips to place branches of new varieties along the stem.

[@jeremybyington]

In mid-March I did another experiment where I planted rootstocks right next to my existing trees and grafted them together several inches. On my trees with M111 semi-dwarf rootstocks I grafted M11 dwarf rootstock to the top stock (or whatever the terminology is). So far, it has fused together in a few places but I suspect I will have to keep them wrapped tight and occasionally loosen them so it doesn’t girdle the tree. I hear dwarf stock will fruit quicker, so my theory is that maybe a portion of the tree will exchange nutrients primarily with the dwarf stock and maybe produce fruit sooner, while ultimately still growing to become large enough to not need support. I got the idea from watching some videos on KZbin about inarching and inosculation.

[@louieshell13]

When is to late to graft?

[@SkillCult]

Depends on what kind of graft. I have grafted dormant wood out of the fridge in july to growing trees and had about 50% take. Summer budding is actually done in the groiwng season, but usually with fresh buds from the current year's growth.

[@vinodchauhan8269]

Great video once again.but u look mature then series of 2017.anyway old wine ..b

[@yanostropicalparadise755]

parafilm apply it and forget it. buts break out of it, you never have to remove it.

[@SkillCult]

I finally got some to try this year. Time to see what all the fuss it about. I hope it's good. People seem to think some is good and some not so good.

[@yanostropicalparadise755]

@@SkillCult good for you. their is a lot of fake parafilm out there the real stuff is expensive.

[@jimmullins4007]

CONFUSION, THERE IS PARAFILM, BUDDY TAPE AND BUDDING TAPE. DID MY VERY FIRST GRAFTING LAST WEEK THREE APPLES AND ALL I COULD FIND WAS SOME RUBBER BANDS IN THE HOUSE TO NARROW IN AFRAID MAYBE HOBBY LOBBY WILL HAVE SOMETHING BETTER

[@SkillCult]

Rubber bands work great. I kind of like budding tape, the white PVC stuff, but I've used a lot of different things. I have a video on grafting with household supplies. The main thing with the wrapping is that it works. Do a wiggle test before you walk away from the graft. you should be able to wiggle it pretty good with out the joint moving in the wrapping.

[@TheZorg2105]

Как же не хватает русских субтитров 😑

[@SkillCult]

Я не говорю и не пишу по-русски и не знаю никого, кто это делает. Я не могу позволить никому платить за это.

[@SkillCult]

Give me back my arm! kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y2a7cqCrpdxroNE

[@ragnaraxelson59]

So by re-applying grafting tape as you did at the 15:00 mark, the union will fortify over time? I have an avocado chip bud that is growing like crazy but there is an small hole at the top part of the union. If I apply grafting tape to the entire graft union will this eventually heal it?

[@SkillCult]

If it is strong and healed otherwise, I would take the tape off and let it heal without.