Grainfather Grainbasket as a Hop Spider Brewing

[@olivierbrousse3478]

Really interresting work and I'm waiting to see what will happen with the mesh attached the idea is just great and I wonder if it would work the same with rolled plates. Best regards

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you 🍻🍻

[@olivierbrousse3478]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew you're welcome

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

🍻🍻🍻

[@MultiChef888]

Hi David some great ideas there my friend something i shall be taking up to use my self , thanks so much , Ivan

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hey Ivan. Do let me know what your experiences are :)

[@fystro77]

Brilliant David! I’m gonna try this on my “muddy waters” (a murky dark ale on Burlington with stupid amounts of late additions)

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+Even Skaaren-Fystro Go for it! Thank sounds interesting!!

[@johanwreto8065]

Hi David, Can you share your ideas, techniques and thougts about designing new recepies? Thank you for awesome videos!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Johan, This is something that I am thinking about for 2018 :) I need to work out the best way to go about it yet :)

[@philgiovanelli4190]

Hi David - Your videos are incredibly helpful! I tried your method of using the grain basket and the top and bottom plates as a hop spider and maybe 75%% of the hops got through. It was a six plus hops ounce DIPA. On our video most of your hops stayed in the grain basket. Wondering what I might have done incorrectly. Also wondering if finding a 400 micron stainless screen cut to fit between the plates might be a good option. Thanks for all your help!!! Phil

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Phil. Did you see part 2 of the video? This works fine on US systems but for higher powered units it really only works for small batches sadly.

[@philgiovanelli4190]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you David. I am in the US and I did see part 2. I was thinking more of a piece of screening cut the size of the plates to cover the entire surface and sit between the two plates - not just a small piece to cover the center post hole. Thanks again.

[@bsbhomebrew]

Clever Idea! Keep up the good work!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+Jonas Waaker Thank you! :)

[@rousvig]

Hi David. Can I put the hops in the hop spider during hopstand and then use my drill to make the whirlpool? At the same time stirring inside hop spider with a big spoon and out of the spider doing whirlpool?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Rous, you can but its really best to forget the hop spider and simply whirlpool. Or you could get a false bottom and not worry about a whirlpool. This is my chosen set up. I have videos about this too

[@rousvig]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks for the reply. Which is the name of that video? Maybe I didn't watch it yet

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

there are several, here is the first one:- kzbin.info/www/bejne/mqi4oad-q6t-bZo

[@bigbadt444e]

Nice job Sir

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+Brad hambrick Thank you Brad :)

[@happydeux2254]

Nice one David

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+HappyDeux Thank you :)

[@neckknee8]

i love it great idea!

[@MrWales]

aleface smugglar heiro! And yes it's a fantastic idea.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

🍻🍻🍻Much appreciated 🍻🍻🍻

[@kenbunkley1167]

Tried this today and had a horrible experience. It would fountain through the middle some but then stop. The wort then boiled up the side in the space between the grain basket and side wall taking a lot of hops with it (which didn't stay in the basket.) Those hops were then lost and not included in the boil. I used 3 oz of pellets total and it did catch a lot of hops, but it was such a mess that I won't be trying it again. Worst clean up experience in 14 brews too because hops covered the sides.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I did mention this effect in the second video with a higher volume on a European GF.

[@kenbunkley1167]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew didn't realize there was a Part 2, I'll watch and learn. Thank you for your videos, they've made this first year of brewing with the GF enjoyable since you've created such a great library of information.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Ken. Yes the first video was a small batch. The second video looks at larger batches.

[@fredericastevenson]

Love your videos. Thank you. You mentioned First Wort Hopping. When exactly do you add the hops and how? My understanding is it is after mash but before the sparge i.e. lift the grain basket, add the hops, let grains drain. This requires a second pair of hands!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+Alan Stevenson Awesome, great to hear :) First wort hops are adding after mashing before you sparge. In the video you can see how I do it, I leave the basket on and drop them between the gap of the basket and brewing system.

[@midnightlightning1]

Rather than trying to block the hole in the plates what do you think about leaving the pipes in place and putting a piece of mesh, or hop bag, over the top of the pipe, held in place with a SS hose clip?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

The problem is boiling will raise up the pipe quickly and with power.

[@marekzelbert3728]

Very good idea! Can you advise when we will see fermentor review?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

The GF conical fermenter? Already did that! Check back on my past videos :) There is a preview, a review and a comparison vs SS Brewtech! :)

[@marekzelbert3728]

David Heath I was thinking about glycol unit.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Ahh. That will be 2018. I have reviewed the cooling pump kit already though.

[@marekzelbert3728]

David Heath Great. Waiting to see that then. I have seen all your videos and waiting for glycol unit. Thanks again.

[@eveannwallis4939]

Hi David, With regard to the wire mesh do you secure the outer edges inside the silicone seals or do you invert the bottom plate and just lay the mesh on top of it? or perhaps do both? Is a ready made hop spider a worthwhile investment?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Eve, whatever secures it will work. It will vary depending on what you are using.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hop spiders are useful from an easier clean up perspective but you will need to add 10% more hops and they only work for full sized batches.

[@alastairsmith7984]

Another great video David. Three questions; 1) Do you use this just for late addition hops, or can you use it for all hop additions? 2) do you leave the recirculting arm running whilst using? 3) On a say 23 litre brew, would the wort not go up the sides of the basket, potentially leading to an overflow situation? TIA

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Alastair. Heres some answers to your questions 1) It can be used for every hop addition, no problem 2) Personally I did not do this but I know some feel it has extra benefit. As long as the hops are stirred in properly then it should not be needed. 3) If you leave the pipework in with the grain stopper then yes but otherwise no. I have recently added a small screen to the top plate that covers the plate hole to avoid needing the pipework at all. I will show this shortly in a follow up video.

[@alastairsmith7984]

Wow thanks for the quick reply! The only reason I asked about boilover is because when I tried it, Thats exactly what it attempted to do!! Thought I must have misunderstood, so thought I'd ask!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

No problem. I will be making a follow up video soon :)

[@kavel22]

Great idea, will test it tomorrow. Looking at your whirlpool method, are you not afraid of Hot Side Aeration?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+s sw HSA, that old chesnut was killed off years ago on homebrew ;) Ive never had issues in over thirty years of homebrewing. Let me know your thoughts, once you have tried the grainbasket hopspider :)

[@kavel22]

Lately I am having some oxidation problems with my brews, so I am a bit paranoid about every possible cause. And yes, I will report on my Grainbasket Hopping experience - can't wait to try it out;)

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+s sw Have you checked your fermentation vessel for air leaks?

[@kavel22]

I use stainless steel vine barrels as FVs. The only possible leak would be from the top. I have 14 barrels on shelves in a cellar with air temperature control. I am improvising a Diacetyl Rest by moving the FV from bottom shelf to one abover (1.5C temperature difference). I am trying to be very careful, but it is possible the CO2 blanket gets disturbed by it. I will skip this in future, to test. But my real problem starts after dry hopping with pallets, some good beers are turning into undrinkable ones in few days after dry hopping....terrible bitter, harsh, rotten vegetable taste or in best case, no hop aroma and stale taste. My guess is, it's because of the oxygen in pallets as I do believe I have sanitation and dry hopping method under control. I recently started buying 1kg vacuum packed hops instead of 100g. 1kg lasts a long time and lets the pallets exposed to air after opening it - I hope that this is the problem as I am running out of ideas. I am right in the middle of test dry hopping with deairated water, CO2 filled kegs and new vacuum packed and re-vacuum packed hops. So far so good but too soon to tell. I have decided to declared war on oxygen so I am grateful for any anti-oxidation tips ;) P.S.: I am a brewing novice, started 5 months ago with cca. 50 brews under my belt - some even drinkable: crisp taste & full hop aroma that lasted almost 4 months.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

If you are kegging then simply dry hop in the keg, nice easy solution :)

[@yatesmachine1234]

David, I tried this on my first GF batch. I must have had too many suspended solids (boil hops and grains) for this to work for me because as I dropped the basket (with only the bottom screen) the whole works just floated. As I tried to push the basket down, the suspended solids resisted this movement and popped the screen out of place. How did you keep this from happening?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi, You should not have grain in your boil, this can lead to off flavours. Its best to use both screens to stop hops moving down. Ensure the bottom plate is firmly down on the bottom of the grain basket. All hops must be stirred in so they drop. This is normal practise in brewing so they drop down for full absorption of the oils. Otherwise the oil will just float on the top. Hope this helps :)

[@tomsmith4729]

Is scorching on the bottom of the GF no longer an issue with the "Grainspider" in place? I'd be paranoid about not being able to give the bottom a scrape.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Tom, I covered this in the video :) No scorching at all :)

[@tomsmith4729]

Thanks for the reply David. I did watch the video. I consider myself very much a beginner to all grain with only a handful of GF brews under my belt. Would you suggest it's hop matter that would have been burning to the bottom of the unit (prior to grain basket use) rather than the sugars in the wort?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+Tom Smith It would seem so. I have never seen the bottom plate so clean after a brew. Zero scraping also!

[@PaulEgan1]

David, after 5 months have you noticed anything that would stop you from doing this? Are the silicon seals still good?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

This will have no effect on the silicone :) It works better on US systems.

[@TFS6750]

Really interesting David. In your long experience, have you noticed any difference in the quality of beer when using conventional hop spider versus using this system? I have a hop spider and I consider it easier to use it, or even in a hop bag, but if there are improvements in the result, maybe "I change my mind" :) TY

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+Fernando López Angulo I have only done this once! In theory it should be the same as naked hops, unlike a regular hop spider. I always add 10% more when using hop socks or a spider.

[@rolandboekhoff3758]

Nice idea and I’ve thought about this myself but thought the boil temp heat may distort the cylindrical shape of the basket sides or the seals themselves. Good to know it does not. Did you also put some stainless steel mesh over the normal pump filter? Is that because you have lost the silicon end? also do you use the top and bottom filter plate in this experiment or just the bottom.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+Roland Boekhoff Yes thats SS mesh on the filter. It holds the end cap :) Both filter plates are used.

[@Kritjuuke]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew I have turned the filter 180 degrees. This also prevents the rubber cap from falling off. No need for mesh

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I have changed now to a circlip. I prefer to use it this way.