Grandstand Astro Wars / Galaxy II repair - Retro Games

Fixing a faulty Grandstand Astro Wars / Epoch Galaxy II
Retro Table Top Arcade Game with VFD Display
This video is strictly for entertainment only. I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or even safe. Please do not copy the techniques shown in this video. If you do so it is entirely at your own risk.
Thanks!

[@utubechannel8670]

At the beginning of December I bought two faulty units on Ebay expecting to replace the D882s as standard, but one actually worked perfectly when it arrived (hurrah!). I also had the same trouble as you when trying to get the case apart. Both were really tricky to separate. The second one was faulty as described and took me a while to repair as it wasn't the transistor. Went to town on it, created a schematic, wrote up a parts list. Used the working unit to figure out what the voltages should be around the patch. Got there in the end!

[@RetroTechRepair]

Excellent! You seem to be more advanced at this than I am. I'd be interested in the parts list and schematic (if you wanted to share) I have some more to repair yet. What was the fault?

[@andylovelace4126]

@@RetroTechRepair I would also be interested in your repair and schematic if possible?

[@davebird5050]

Still got my original Grandstand game from 1981 so this vid is much needed info if it should malfunction. Great vid repair again to another retro game👍

[@RetroTechRepair]

Thanks Dave glad you enjoyed the vid... Loads more handhelds to come

[@Wenlocktvdx]

Thanks for the heads-up. Nice fix, wouldn’t expect to be able to find a replacement for the VFD if that had been dead. Got mine from from a local thrift shop, no problems with it, just a minor cleanup. They were distributed in Australia by Grandstand Entertainment NZ. Mine was still in the box!

[@RetroTechRepair]

Thank @wenlocktvdx this seems to be a very common fault with these and many of the other Grandstand VFD games. Enjoy your Astro Wars and thanks again for your comments.

[@Wenlocktvdx]

I got mine out of the box for a look today. It seems to have very little use, not scratched or roughened anywhere. I noticed the manual and warranty card are still in the box. I have enjoyed the game and my 22 year old nephew racked up a massive high score. Don’t know if you found a copy of the manual, but I found one here: www.handheldmuseum.com/Manuals/Grandstand-AstroWars.pdf. This site has a lot of manuals for these vintage consoles by the look of it.

[@RetroTechRepair]

@@Wenlocktvdx Brilliant! Thanks. I'll check out that site too. Yes it's an awesome game.

[@superspecky4eyes]

Thanks I found, the seller and ordered one. Cheers. Hopefully I will be able to get it up and running again. It seems like it has the same issue as the one in the video.

[@RetroTechRepair]

Glad I could help. Stop backand let us know how it goes. There is another common failure, fixed in later revisions of the board. Check out the Astro Wars repair special for that. If it is there other fault maybe take a look at the CGL Puck Monster on how to find alternative parts as I am not sure the one identified in the "special" is strictly necessary.

[@robhamtom]

Just watched your video and swapped the transistor as you described, after buying a solder kit of Amazon UK and bingo 👏👏👏 she works again after 40 years in my cupboard so thank you 🙏

[@RetroTechRepair]

Robert that is Awesome! So glad you got it fixed and the video was of help.... with your new soldering skills you can go on to fix loads of stuff now. Thanks for the feedback. This was one of my earliest videos so I'm very happy it's still useful. Cheers!

[@robhamtom]

@@RetroTechRepair yes, I'm going to watch more of your super videos and get some more of these old games of ebay 👍👍👍

[@RetroTechRepair]

@@robhamtom oh No! You'll be bidding against me! LOL... seriously good to hear. Its a pleasure to inspire. Thanks for the feedback

[@fatabelly]

Great video thankyou...and well done for fixing such a great example of classic retro gaming. I remember owning an Astro Wars myself as a kid, and remember loving every single game I played.

[@RetroTechRepair]

Thanks Martin. I really appreciate the feedback. I'd have given my right arm for an Astro Wars as a kid. So I was excited to repair it, in fact I have a couple more with different faults still to repair. The game play is so much more advanced than most of the other hand helds of the time. I'm definitely keeping one! the other will go back on ebay when repaired, keeping it out of landfill and hopefully passing it along to somebody who will enjoy it like you did. I think there is still a lot of fun in these games for kids today. Cheers Roger

[@davebatty8814]

I've always had a love for electronics and electronic games since I was a kid. So much taken apart, so little put back together and working. I love this video, thank you for taking the time to make it, it's really clear and easy to understand for someone like me. I have a couple of faulty Astro Wars that have sat waiting for help for years and now I've seen this I'm having a go at fixing them. I've just tested the D882 on the one to hand and it appears faulty as per your video so have ordered replacements. Fingers crossed on that one. I've not checked the other faulty unit yet as it's not close by but while reading the comments I came across the 1N5275B replacement zener diode solution for S06. I've no idea if the other unit has this issue but preparing for the worst I've tried to find some in stock just in case but it's problematic. I can find 1N5275A in stock but it has a larger tolerance to the B of +/-10% as opposed to +/-5%. Not an issue for me yet but out of interest would the A version be a sufficient replacement for the B here if it came to it?

[@RetroTechRepair]

I bet the "a" will be fine. With hindsight I wonder of that was a zener anyway maybe take a look at my puck monster video if you fancy a trial and error approach. Either way... massive thanks for the comments. Really inspiring. Appreciate it a LOT. Cheers!

[@davebatty8814]

@@RetroTechRepair Really appreciate your reply. I wanted to just give an update and let you know I got my old Astro Wars working and it's really cool :) Of the two I have the one with the S06 issue is my original from when I was a kid. I used two 1W 1N4760 68V zener diodes in series to replace S06 and it works perfectly. Thanks for getting me across the line. It's been sat in a cupboard for the best part of 30 years since it got broke and your video showed me how to get it done. It's as much fun as I remember it. Still got to beat it yet on the hard setting though. Thanks again!

[@RetroTechRepair]

@@davebatty8814 that's fantastic! So happy to help. Thanks for the feedback!

[@karlwalker1771]

Fantastic video mate, Glad to see a true repairman at work not like the latest generation of THROW IT AWAY, you sir have made my Lockdown day :) Brilliant mate.

[@RetroTechRepair]

Awe cheers mate! Thanks 👍 I needed that today, sometimes in not sure all the effort to get a vid to you tube is worth it, then I get a message like yours and it fair cheers me up. Thanks. Good to keep these games out of landfill

[@daz41262010]

awesome to see this game repaired it was one of my favourites when I was younger :)

[@RetroTechRepair]

Mine too but I never had one. That's why I started the channel actually so I could finally have stuff we couldn't afford as a kid. I have a other astro wars video in there somewhere too.

[@classicartfoundation639]

I had this as a kid, was obsessed with it

[@RetroTechRepair]

Great! I never had one as a kid but they are awesome games. Really quite impressive for the time. Hope you enjoyed the video, please consider subscribing.... Lots more to come

[@kernowvideo]

Love it when these are repaired amazing vid very informative and thanks to Dave Batty for the suggestion of Diodes in series ive managed to fix 2 more with out having to wait for imported zeners.

[@RetroTechRepair]

Great. Glad that you enjoyed the video and that it was useful. Thanks Dave too. I love all the comments. On that note... thanks for taking the time to feedback. Really appreciated

[@sparkstron73]

Glad you got it working loved this game as a kid

[@RetroTechRepair]

Thanks for the feedback. I have another Japanese market one to come and one that went up in smoke that I eventually fixed. Glad you liked the video

[@ncross1857]

Great video and a great channel mate. I found you when StezStix mentioned you in one of his videos. My wee brother had one of these, but the git wouldn't let me play it.😁

[@RetroTechRepair]

Thanks N Cross. I never got to play it as a kid either, some kids at school had them but never let me have a go. Glad you enjoyed the vid and the channel. Thanks so much for the comments

[@stevenholt458]

I had most of these games when I was younger.

[@RetroTechRepair]

Thanks Steve. Hope I bring back some memories... More to come soon

[@luisdardis5223]

i love your videos man! i'm learning a little with all this, dunno much electronics but this is the real thing. TY!

[@RetroTechRepair]

Brilliant! Thanks, don't learn from me though MUCH more knowledgeable people around but we learn together. Thanks so much for the comments

[@NeilsNonsense]

Hi Roger, it's a few years since you made this video and it predates my sub to your channel, but since I just received a non-functional Astro Wars this is the first time I've watched it. Thanks for the head start on the D882, it looks like that's my problem too since I'm reading a short between B-C. I don't have any D882s to hand, so I've ordered some from eBay. I did wonder if there were any common equivalents that might work, but in the end decided to not risk it and get the D882s. Hopefully that's the only problem since after reading the comments I've noticed it's an S06 only board. The VFD has the black spot though so I hear that's a good sign! Cheers!

[@RetroTechRepair]

What a great comment! First off thanks for your sub, very grateful for that. I must admit I haven't tried to sub the d882 with a different transistor although I expect the circuit isn't too fussy. SO6 can cause the D882 to overheat and fail, so if it starts to get hot or draw lots of current then you probably have an SO6 failure. I'm still not convinced the S06 is a zener, it could just be a normal diode with a 140v reverse breakdown. Maybe try the rerltrotech repair puck monster technique. Either way good luck with the repair and thanks again for your sub and comments. Please stop back and let us know how it goes. Cheers Roger

[@NeilsNonsense]

@@RetroTechRepair The D882 was indeed faulty, after removal it tested the same way. Unfortunately, after soldering in a tested working replacement, the game was still dead when I applied 6V DC. There must be a fault elsewhere. I was then reading largish voltage drops between C-B (0.65V) and (E-B) (2.2V) with the new D882 in circuit (no power applied) where I htought they should read as open (OL)? Desoldered the new D882 and it still tests fine (OL) on the bench, so it at least didn't get destroyed! I get similar C-B and E-B voltages on the other in-circuit NPNs SO3, SO4 & S05 which are all C1841, so in the unlikely scenario that they're all toast, is that normal/to be expected in-circuit? I'll have to do some more research and diagnosis. Another complication is that half of one pad for the D882 (E) lifted on the second desolder, so I may need to jump that track now, although it's still reading continuity. Sigh. Any ideas?

[@NeilsNonsense]

​@Retro Tech Repair Well I got it fixed in the end, hurrah! I'm still not sure what the problem was before, since I couldn't find any other faults. So in the end I just soldered another replacement D882 into place and the game sprang to life with 6V DC supplied! Maybe I didn't have the switch jumped correctly last time? Anyway, there was some more drama, since in all my man-handling of it during the repair, that tiny ribbon connector from the joysick board broke away from the main board! It's too short to strip some bare ends and reattach so I needed to replace it with some hook-up wire. In the process of removing the ribbon from the JS board, a solder pad lifted so needed jumping to the pad of the switch! They say these things come in threes! Anyway, it's all good now and I have a working Astro Wars that I paid very little for. Thanks again for the video Roger, I love the way you present these, so clear, calm and great camera work makes it so easy to follow. No doubt I'll be following in your footsteps again soon! Bye for now :)

[@Fnordathoth]

Awesome repair video :)

[@RetroTechRepair]

Cheers Fnordathon!

[@lenep9985]

Brilliant...🙂 ive got one of these still in its box...but it dont work...,was great to hear the sounds it makes again🙂...can u fix mine please....lol

[@RetroTechRepair]

Sorry Len, I can't do repairs for others. I'm a total amateur and I'd feel awful if I messed it up. I'm glad you enjoyed the video though. I actually have some more repairs of different astro wars coming soon. Thanks so much for your comments.

[@MegaTerryWogan]

I had that :) as a kid, took apart when it stopped working. No idea how it worked so ended up in the bin....DOH!

[@RetroTechRepair]

LoL I think a lot of them ended up that way. They nearly all fail in one of two ways.... a weak spot. Glad to bring back some memories. Thank you so much for your comments.

[@StirlingStevieB]

Hi there, superb video! I've got two of these as well, both with the same S06 mystery diode problem that's of so much interest in the comments. Quite a lot of us in the same boat now it seems! When's your new video on S06 testing likely to drop? I'm proper keen to get playing again so don't be shy, your audience awaits with bated breath! For what it's worth, I tried some BAT85 Shottky diodes as suggested on an unrelated forum but no joy - I think they're too low voltage but I'm no expert. I did at least get about 1 second of ropey sounding music before the new BAT85 died so am pretty sure all I need is a proper replacement for the S06 component to fix both. Don't keep us all on tenterhooks too long now, we need help!

[@StirlingStevieB]

OK so I missed a comment further down that mentions to try a 1N5275B and it worked for me, I now have two working Astro Wars games! Thanks heaps for the tip :) I still have a mechanical problem to resolve on one of them but at least they both play. Woop! The mecanical issue is quite interesting (well, I think so anyway). One of the joysticks doesn't return to centre so I took the good one apart to see how it's supposed to work. It appears the sticks have an uber-tiny 1.9mm x 5mm spring hidden up the barrel and held in place by an equally tiny 2mm ball bearing. Moving the stick pushes on the bearing which in turn compresses the spring which of course pushes back when the stick is let go, returning the stick to the centre. Very neat and very tiny! My broken one had no bearing and the spring had disintegrated so it was back to ebay for some suitable replacements. Amazing what you can find on there! Will let you know how that goes when the bits arrive :)

[@andyvanstokkum7643]

@@StirlingStevieB Well done getting it working. Same issue for me. Where did you get the 1N5275B and what voltage is it rated for? Are they on Aliexpress? Some comments refer to a 140v zener, but the highest I can find is a 75v. They also seem to be called a DO-35.

[@RetroTechRepair]

I'll see what I can do!

[@StirlingStevieB]

Found mine on eBay, they were listed as 140v 500mw. I paid under £5 for 6 of them though so not cheap, but was worth it in the end :) If you find a cheaper option, let me know!

[@davebatty8814]

Shot in the dark after so long, but the 1N5275B seems hard to come by. Are there alternatives? I can find 1N5275A with a voltage tolerance of +/- 10% (B is +/- 5%), will that suffice?

[@andylovelace4126]

A great repair, thanks. I bought an AstroWars from a gaming convention. I was told it worked, however once I got it home, no luck. I seem to get audio from the unit and can select/start a game but no display. any ideas ? I have ordered a D882s from ebay which I will change as a precaution. hopefully that might mix it as I'm not that good with Electronic fault finding.

[@RetroTechRepair]

Hi Andy, thanks for your feedback. I actually had an astrowars with a similar fault. I too am not an expert in electronic fault finding. But I did work it out in the end. I will eventually post a video on it. It wasn't the D882 in the other game but it's good you have some as they often fail. I'm sorry somebody sold you a broken game! Couple of things to check. If you disassemble the game the display should have that dark spot inside the display glass, like the one in the video. If that spot has gone white then sadly the display is damaged and there is not much you can do. If not then see if the D882 is getting hot to touch when the game is running. If so turn the game off as the D882 might eventually burn up (told you good to have spares) post back when you have had a look let me know what you find. If it's getting hot I have some more ideas. One quick favour... If you haven't already please subscribe, it really helps the channel. Thanks

[@andylovelace4126]

@@RetroTechRepair Hi, Yes it does have the dark spot inside the glass, I thought that was a bad thing. Not sure about the D882 overheating as I have re-assembled it at the moment. I will wait for the replacement D882 to arrive and see if there's any difference. I'm ok with soldering so I can handle that, I will report back my results. Hope it works as I have the Scramble version which is fine.

[@RetroTechRepair]

@@andylovelace4126 The black spot is good! Its called a "getter" it is put on during manufacture and absorbs impurities within the display. Let us know how you go with the D882, perhaps keep the one that you remove just in case. Thanks!

[@andylovelace4126]

The D882 replacment had no effect :-( I have noticed that when I turn it on the D882 gets really hot, any more ideas ? Many thanks

[@andylovelace4126]

I have refitted the original D882 as it wasn't the issue, do you think it's worth changing all the Caps ? What are the components S10/S09 and S08 are they diodes ?

[@peteclln5175]

An excellent video sir, you have inspired me to search ebay for faulty items to repair. A fix made to look easy and doable with some good camera angles. Great work ;)

[@RetroTechRepair]

Thanks so much. Good luck with the repairs. Let me know if I can help.

[@waheex]

great , just discovered the same on my unit. I wonder what the values of the 's' diodes are as these seem to give problems too

[@RetroTechRepair]

Thanks Mindburner. have an astrowars special coming soon that tests the SO6 diodes and proposes an alternative!

[@Wenlocktvdx]

Scored mine at a local op shop, full working order and no battery leakage and in the original box. I’m careful not to leave batteries in it, and I keep it in the box

[@RetroTechRepair]

Nice one! It's a great game

[@adygills5658]

I still have my original Astrowars game, what would the problem be when you can hear the game starting up, (m7sic playing) then hear the aliens tick tick ticking around but nothing on display?

[@RetroTechRepair]

I have repaired one recently with that fault... Video coming soon! (Sub not to miss it). Spoiler alert ... But in my case it was failure of SO6 A Zener diode tucked away under the bottom of the display

[@tambias]

off this particular topic but relevant.i have a konami frogger handheld from this era,sound but nothing on the vacuum screen,screen looks in good shape,dark spot at bottom etc.is there something i should look for,step up transformer issue? also subscribed as content is right up my street

[@RetroTechRepair]

Hi Thanks so much for the Sub. Thrilled you like the vids. Frogger is a great VFD game and in my opinion perhaps the best conversion to a tabletop of the time. Well worth repairing. Unfortunately though I haven't any experience repairing them. I did get one for the channel but it worked great! I keep my eye out for another faulty one on eBay but so far no luck. On other games I haven't yet seen a blown transformer, but that doesn't rule it out. I'd probably start by looking carefully for physical damage, then perhaps voltages, then transistor and diode tests (I expect some of them are Zener diodes). The frogger I had had the component values printed on the board. Which might help. But I'm so expert in this, so this isn't ready advice, just what I would do (right or wrong). Let us know how you get on.

[@daviddaniels9268]

Great video and very helpful. I think I have the same issue with my Astro wars, I live in uk, do you have any idea where I may be able to get the transistor from. Any help is appreciated.

[@RetroTechRepair]

Hi Dan I got mine off eBay not too pricey D882.

[@paulwilliams7070]

I have Astro wars no power through mains or battery’s any ideas what to look for so I can’t fix this

[@RetroTechRepair]

Hi Paul. I am not an expert in these repairs, but if the game were mine I would take a the transistors as described in the video or the power connector like this "invader from space" video (kzbin.info/www/bejne/nonZeoeCZqqKpNU).

[@abcmatt]

Hi, Could you please help with some information. I've had this game since it came out but just recently damaged it!!! I wasn't thinking and hooked up a power transformer. I put some batteries in and only had sound. The batteries were old so I though not enough power. I then used a multi volt transformer on 6V but still only had sound. I had a brain snap and put the power up to 12v. Now no sound or display!!!!! Could this be the power transistor or some the simply needs to be replaced or has the whole thing been fried? I do have the dark spot at the bottom of the display but it's not white.. Thank you.

[@RetroTechRepair]

Hi abcmatt... I doubt it's completely fried. I have seen many of these with failed D882 power transistors and my theory is that an incorrect power adapter similar to your description is the cause. I don't think not enough power was the original problem. But if you get it back to partially working we can take it from there. I suggest testing the power transistor then replacing if faulty and see how it goes. The scramble, and munchman all had similar faults and I think I talk about transistor testing in one of those so maybe take a peek at those vids too. Thanks for the comment... Good luck, let us know how it goes and if I can help more let me know. Finally if you enjoy the vids and would like to see more please consider subscribing, as a new channel it really does help us when you do. Cheers !

[@abcmatt]

@@RetroTechRepair Thank you so much for the reply. I'll will do some testing etc and get back to you. Fingers crossed. Definitely will subscribe.

[@abcmatt]

@@RetroTechRepair Ok firstly I'm just using the games batteries (not brand new batteries) as the power source. Testing on the "off" side terminal area, I get a reading of 5.15v but when I bridge the 2 so it is in the on position it drops to 1.90-2.10v. I kept them connected then walked away for a minute. When I walked back into the room, I could smell a slight burning. I put my finger on the power transistor and it was so hot, I couldn't touch it. 2 different faults or one causing the other to be faulty? Thanks again.

[@RetroTechRepair]

Hi @abcmatt The power transistor should not run hot. My guess is that there is a fault elsewhere on the board that is causing the power transistor to over heat. The overheating D882 is a symptom of the other fault, but if it overheats too much it will burn up causing a second fault. That could be why it fried the first time. On batteries the current is limited to what the c-cells can deliver. That is why the voltage drops. It would probably burn up sooner on a power supply where the batteries are not limiting current. The over heating may or may not have damaged the D882 so if you have a multimeter I would test it. I think my munchman video has a nice segment in it on testing the transistor. I had the same problem on one of my repairs and burned up a couple of D882s trying to fix it, I shot a video of it, but haven't edited it and posted it yet. In my case it was the failure of SO6 which is behind the bottom of the display. You may also have an SO11 in series with SO6, this was a change the manufacturers did to later boards (my guess to improve reliability) or you might not have an SO11 at all. I bet if you were to lift one leg of SO6 then D882 will be cool again. Although the game still wont work. Unfortunately SO6 is not marked, so you cant figure out by looking what it is. I fixed mine by replacing it with a spare part from a scrap board. SO6 could the problem, but I cant tell you for sure what to replace it with. I did do some experimentation and THINK it MIGHT be a 140v Zener Diode (something like a 1N5275B or 1N5275Be3). If you were to try it it would be at your own risk, I could be entirely wrong. Yes 140v not a typo.... the board uses some clever boost circuitry to create over 100v AC to drive the display. Hope that helps.

[@abcmatt]

@@RetroTechRepair Hi mate. Well you are an absolute legend! It's only taken me 3 months to get back to it. It has been sitting on my table, pulled down and awaiting me to get some guts. I am great with electrics but never tried working on green boards and especially anything attached to them. So I removed the old power transistor and soldered in the new 50 cents one and it powered up! Thank you so much for the great upload and also your advice. Really appreciate it.

[@CZpersi]

Old consoles were made to be repairable. I am not sure, if we will be able to repair today’s generation of consoles after 30 years.

[@RetroTechRepair]

Probably not, modern stuff is way beyond my capabilities already

[@TopRetroGames]

A very good game!

[@RetroTechRepair]

Thanks! sorry for my late reply and thanks for your comments.

[@ericboog5111]

On mine the joystick doesn t comes to center "automaticaly". Is this repairable ?

[@RetroTechRepair]

Hi, I am not an expert in repairs, but it could be repairable or perhaps if not made perfect improved. If it were my game I would start by disassembling the game, then cleaning the joystick mechanism with a lubricating plastic safe switch cleaner. This is not advice or a recommendation, just what I would do. Thanks for your question

[@ericboog5111]

@@RetroTechRepair ok thanks for the advice. I think It s a good idea. I will try. I let you know 😉

[@RetroTechRepair]

Happy to help good luck.

[@ericboog5111]

@@RetroTechRepair used lubricating plastic safe cleaner for électronic parts. Still have the problem with joystick but sensitivty is more better. There were a lot of dust particles in there. Happy with this advice 😉

[@RetroTechRepair]

@@ericboog5111 Thanks Eric, Sorry that it didn't fix your problem. I suppose you "could" disassemble the switch but I have never done that and don't know if that's a good idea. Perhaps somebody else here can help.

[@jesusga8319]

hello mate, my name is jesus and I would like to repair my astro, I changed the d882 transistor but it gets too hot, where is the s06 or s011 that you said in the video, if you can pass me an image of what component is it, I would appreciate it, thank you very much I hope answer

[@RetroTechRepair]

SO6 is located under the VFD display at the bottom. If your D882 is hot my guess is you don't have an SO11. I think that was Introduced on later boards to improve reliability. If you do have an SO11 it is next to SO6

[@jesusga8319]

​@@RetroTechRepair hi friend thanks, what component can be the s06???

[@jesusga8319]

@@RetroTechRepair my astro wars only has s06

[@RetroTechRepair]

@@jesusga8319 I don't know for certain but think it's a 140V Zener Diode. Although it's not an exact match I have replaced it successfully with a 1N5275B

[@jesusga8319]

@@RetroTechRepair ok thanks friend, i replaced in this week, i say also you friend

[@PetshopPete]

What power transistor was it ?

[@RetroTechRepair]

Hard to imagine I didn't say in the video isn it... well it was an early video. It was a D882. Thanks for your comment

[@PetshopPete]

The one I repaired was the transistor and is now spot on apart from the DC Jack socket intermittent between battery / or PSU. Thanks again….. video was excellent

[@RetroTechRepair]

@@PetshopPete that's great... thanks

[@poshpaul55]

where can i get a battery cover from anyone ?????

[@RetroTechRepair]

Hi Paul, I don't know. You used to see them in ebay but now I only see 3d printed copies. Sorry that I can't help

[@RetroTechRepair]

There is someone selling one in ebay UK at the time of writing

[@kennybacchus1488]

Grandstand. Astro. Wars. Galaxy. 2. Repair. Retro. Games

[@RetroTechRepair]

Thanks for your comment

[@kennybacchus2629]

Like. Grandstand. Astro. Wars. Have. 1981.

[@RetroTechRepair]

Great game! Thanks for your comment. Glad you enjoyed the video

[@tambias]

if you want i can send it to you to make a video with.it cant be much as there is sound,

[@RetroTechRepair]

Thank you Thomas. Unfortunately I am an amateur repairer and sometimes make things worse as I try to fix them, so I wouldn't feel comfortable working on somebody else's game. When I buy stuff then break it only I lose out, but I would feel awful it I damaged somebody else's game.

[@markberry3496]

We may be the only 2 people who pronounce the "s" in "fresnel."

[@RetroTechRepair]

LoL I'm back and forth on it. I think Wikipedia says either is OK, but the inventor was French so the S is probably silent. I have a similar challenge with "Piezo". Thank you for your comment, hope that you enjoyed the video.

[@Danechip]

aaRRGGHH .PBA, it's not printed circuit arse. Board boy. BOARD. PCB!!

[@RetroTechRepair]

Hi @Danechip. I understand that colloquially some refer to a printed circuit board assembly as a PCB, but a PCB is an unpopulated board. Once the board is populated with components it's an assembly (PCA or PCBA). Thanks for your comment. Please avoid profanity in the comments section.

[@Danechip]

@@RetroTechRepair Apologies for the 'arse' comment, I could have chose apple as my A word but didn't want to get a law suit. uhm...34 years in electronics, I have never heard of the term 'PCA', Does anyone else agree with me? . I live in England by the way with solder and not sodder.

[@RetroTechRepair]

Thanks for your reply. I also referred to a populated board as a PCB for many years. I am British but have worked around the world, and found the PCA/PCBA phrase to be prevalent. A Google search show's both interpretations. I honestly don't mind what people chose to call it. But I do believe in being respectful to other people. Anyway apology accepted. Welcome to the channel I hope you stick around.

[@Danechip]

@@RetroTechRepair of course I will.

[@RetroTechRepair]

Glad to hear it. You are very welcome. Thanks for you comments. A little spirited debate is often a good thing.