Graph Tech Training Series: How to Install a Pre-Slotted Nut

[@TheKenton]

Learning every inch of your guitar will completely change your relationship with your guitar. A Graph Tech Nut is so fairly priced, but most manufacturers still put cheap plastic nuts on their low end (and sometimes even mid range) guitars. The first time you go to replace the nut you'll be shocked at the difference between the nut that came on the instrument and the new one from Graph Tech. It's such an important part of your playing experience too.

[@iamanovercomer3253]

Just put the tusq nut in my Fender player telecaster, no glue , fits snug. The charity, sharpness and enhancement of the sound is unbelievable. Next I will do my strat

[@nattyboyo2404]

2:56 great catch!

[@ared18t]

She didn't even stutter wtf fricken pro

[@j.jester7821]

To adjust the nut height, if you liked the height of the old nut, simply measure and write down before removing it and compare with the height new install. This is an easy shortcut can save some time, it gets you in the ball park.

[@MarcoLizza]

Honestly, I think this should be the preferred way. Unless the original nut has wrong height.

[@charliepin4501]

The reason I'm watching this video is that the old nut is worn down on the G and B strings (probably other strings, too). So you don't want to blindly re-create the old nut exactly. But, ya, for overall height and width, keep it handy for comparison and measurements.

[@MrStevecro]

The instruction is terrific (will be filed in my Bookmarks until I do my Epiphones). It helps a lot that Nicole has a very listenable voice - (clear, nice pitch and no whiney accent).Thank you Nicole

[@whatwouldhousedo5136]

Great tip about using two sanding blocks at 90 degrees to square it off.

[@georgescarlett2320]

Yup, a WHOLE lot cheaper than Uncle Stewie's Gizmo!!! Great tip, I'll use it someday if I ever lose my Delta Belt, and Disc Sander, Ha!

[@d3w4yn3]

This is VERY, VERY GOOD!!!! I needed these details, and I will say, that you are one master luthier to make me feel like I could actually do this!!! So glad I found this, you saved me from several things I was about to do the wrong way!!! GLORIOUS!!!

[@drzainnas]

One of the best well explained, simplified, systematic, and by a professional luthier demonstrated video. Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge and experience best regards from ENGLAND.

[@nohrtillman8734]

Although never advertised as a drop in replacement, I didn’t anticipate a months worth of fitting. On my 2005 Les Paul Studio, skinny neck, I could not get the nut rocking out of the nut slot. I used good single faced files for gun smithing to square everything. Sanded with a straight edge. Measured with a straight edge. Every time, the nut rocked side to side about .007. This neck has a strip of non-mahogany wood running along the truss rod. My experience tells my this wood does not file/sand at the same rate, and without a tricky router jig, I’ll never get the rocker out. I ended up sanding the 6061 nut bottom concave to get it to sit solid. D-string slot is deep. And, the whole 6061 nut seems to have a shallower radius than the skinny neck LP. I biased my reduction sanding toward the small string end. Bought nut string files for A and E. Measured and adjusted all six strings along each step to get a profile of 0.005 (high E) to 0.009 (low E) As I tuned to pitch in-between each step, I immediately noticed a pleasant difference!! Clarity and sustain were notably crisp and long. The wound strings sound like the low end of a grand piano now. Even though I landed a touch below recommended gaps, there is no fret buzz, and setup is aligns to Gibson specs. Having the TUSQ XL proudly sitting at the end of the fretboard will be worth the effort. It just took a good deal of working the piece (and the blank nut video) to get it installed right.

[@doctorbarber1]

That acoustic background music in two of the segments is legitimately kind of haunting and creepy. I like it. Also nice save at 2:55

[@joshuaclaar7171]

1. What grit sand paper(s) are you using? 2. The glue process should be shown or explained as well as what type of glue.

[@RylanStorm]

Yeah. And since you can buy most graphtech nuts ready made for your guitar, I'd say this video focuses on all the wrong parts of the process.

[@someoneelse101]

400grit is recommended. As for glue, I use Titebond 1 or 2. Superglue is too fast drying and glues both you and the part to each other and the Instrument in question, whereas Titebond gives 30mins or play if alignment needs adjusting.

[@pk952]

@@someoneelse101please don’t use wood glue , you’ll make it extremely hard to remove next time and risk pulling timber off! 2 small dots of CA glue is the way to go and makes for easy removal 👍🏻

[@someoneelse101]

@@pk952 Will keep that in mind. I've used Titebond for everything timber related without too much hassle though

[@THEWEIRDSISTERS69]

Problem is that wood glue expands as it dries and could move the nut, made that mistake before and ruined the neck trying to get it off..

[@geraldhenrickson7472]

This video will be SO helpful since I made my action too low the first time around using the 6061 pre-slotted nut. Will do better the second time around. Thanks again.

[@j.jester7821]

It is also a good idea to place a piece of wood at a right angle to your sanding block so you maintain a level bottom on the nut.

[@joshuabenton3785]

What were the video designers thinking with the crazy border for the video! Great content and the luthier is very good but man that border is....not the best choice.

[@AverageCitizen333]

Thank you for this. I really didnt wanna wait 2-3 weeks for my local shop to work me in. This makes it seem pracrical to do myself.

[@ApexHotShot]

Hi Nicole and Graph Tech. Thanks for the great instructional video. I am about a year into my playing and I find the technical aspects just as interesting. You explain the procedure very clearly. When I need to replace one of mine, this video will be a key reference. I did note that - although the graphic is accurate - Nicole mis-spoke about the high E clearance gap. Check at the 4:45 marker. The accurate measure is 0.006.. (not "... 0.06 of an inch"). I watched your vid for replacing the saddle as well. That is another great guitar tech reference

[@glennwhite8799]

Very helpful video! I used a set of automotive feeler gauges to set the height of the low and high E strings. Worked like a charm.

[@HairyTheCandyMan]

Charmed like a work.

[@gobodega5226]

This is a very good guide. I installed a Tusq XL 6143 and it fits perfectly in a Les Paul Copy. Sand down in small steps and keep checking the distances with a feeler gauge. Thanks.

[@XChristianNoirX]

I tapped the nut sideways as you suggested on a Fender neck and... It busted 2/3 of the fretboard wood behind the the nut, on the headstock side. Brand new, unused, $800 neck that I sorted out from buying 15 necks! 15! A monumental endeavor in itself! I scored it on all edges possible, even the sides, with an exact knife, as carefully and deeply as I could! I didn't even tap that hard. 2/3 broke off. Thanks!

[@realtusq]

If if was a used neck, I'd say somebody used crazy glue or epoxy to glue in the nut, but as you mentioned, it was brand new, my best guess, without seeing it, there was a fault in the wood. Removing the nut as we described is best practices for removing an existing nut. Please contact the store where you bought your neck and see what can be done to remedy the situation.

[@XChristianNoirX]

@@realtusq The nut had too much glue on it. Fender USA. Unfortunately this neck is not replaceable. I bought the *last* 15 available at any retailer and kept only 2. They have ebony fretboards, and as it stands, Fender no longer produces all black ones, except for maybe in the custom shop. They are all heavily streaked and some aren't even as dark as rosewood. I even had to ink the two I kept to make them all black, as they still had minor streaks. The other ones would almost be like inking rosewood, except that ebony is less absorbent, so the ink may have not covered their streaks enough. Come to find out, if the nut doesn't come out on Fender guitars without a super gentle tap, if you didn't put the nut in the yourself and don't know how it's glued, you're supposed to saw the nut in half, I think length-wise, and snap it somehow to get it out. Tons of luthier forums say sawing down the middle is how to remove a Fender nut, at least one the luthier didn't install to begin with, and the the knock out method is used more on Gibson-style nuts. I did a repair on the nut channel and refinished it, but it took over 2 weeks to do and make it look 90% stock. Needles to say, I will never use the method mentioned in the video again, unless I installed the but myself, without glue, or with only a really miniscule amount of glue.

[@XChristianNoirX]

@@realtusq the nut had so much glue on it, it was on all three sides of the nut that touch the three sides of the nut channel! Crazy 🤪

[@mojoefelix]

2:57 Sand the front face of this nut. Which face is the front face? Toward the fretboard? Or toward the tuning pegs?

[@tsomers01]

Toward the fretboard.

[@noahallen1996]

Just got mine installed -- this video was an extremely helpful guide. The strings on my new PRS kept binding up at the nut whenever I used the tremolo, but changing out the stock nut for a Tusq XL made a massive difference. I can pull off divebombs now. :)

[@MrCamerononicus]

That surprises me because PRS has a super secret proprietary nut material.

[@noahallen1996]

@@MrCamerononicus Yeah, I know -- you'd really think that it would be better, but it just isn't. :/

[@brushstroke3733]

What model PRS was that? Was it one of the core U.S. made guitars?

[@noahallen1996]

@@brushstroke3733 One of the SE Standards actually. Korean-made, I believe, though I was talking to a luthier friend of mine and apparently he's seen similar issues even on higher-grade PRS guitars. Pun intended, the but remains a sticking point.

[@brushstroke3733]

@@noahallen1996 Interesting. I would have guessed TUSQ XL material was a copy of the PRS material. Perhaps it was and yet Graph Tech improved on the formula. I've never had problems with my PRS nut, but then again, I don't do dive bombs either! I rarely use the whammy bar, but when I do, it's usually for more subtle tremolo type effects. Pulling off divebombs without a locking trem system and staying in tune is actually a fairly stunning technological achievement in my eyes, and it's great that we have the materials and technology to do that now. Who wants to lock down their strings like some kind of kinky Dom anyway?! Let them slide in their slots, baby!!

[@robertruamps5680]

Thanks for the video ! 4:44 Is the distance between the first fret and the strings the same on a strat style than on this Epiphone ?

[@Iazzaboyce]

A piece of glass makes a good sanding surface and if you're a beginner holding the nut against a straight edge as you sand will keep the new surface straight and square. Considering the old playing action you can use slots on the old nut as a height guide - even test lowering the old nut to determine at what height fret buzz begins. These nuts are really excellent - you need to measure carefully width, thickness, height and consider string spacing (E-E) before ordering - don't just assume the existing nut is correct.

[@alanoffer]

Nice workshop ,

[@KyleMonizMusic]

Awesome going to be installing one later. Won't have much sanding to do tho as you guys did a super solid job getting it super close to the original size.

[@StephaneMorelle]

Thanks for the video it was veary helpfull. Just installed a Graph Tech PQ 6060 00 Slotted Nut on a Epiphone James Bay Century CH; its requierd a bit of sanding but it sounds great now !

[@paulinhoespindola8959]

2:56 kk, Really the human brain processes the information very fast, as soon as the piece has fallen it has already picked up quickly, very good, congratulations on the video.

[@rustedwoods100]

Just replaced the nut on my PRS! Great video - thank you! The nut I ordered from Graphtec fit perfect - just a little sanding to lower the action. I used to put graphite on the string guides - dont need to with this nut!

[@GraphTechGuitarLabs]

Glad it helped

[@OmegaPosi]

This was really informative. Very necessary as I need to do this on a guitar I'm rebuilding. She was about to go IN on a guitar solo at the end and got cut off though... lol.

[@Roman_Comrad]

Very good nuts. I installed this one on my Gibson Explorer. Thanks Graph Tech!

[@dannyh7557]

I sand my nuts every night.

[@GerryBlue]

Very helpful, especially the height of strings over first fret, which is all over the place when searching the web

[@benjaminvalencia4228]

what type of glue and will the glue thickness impact the height?

[@Neelo5000]

Yep, white glue. The glue is really just to hold the nut in place during restringing. The tension of the strings will be enough to hold the nut in place and white glue will make it easy to remove in the future.

[@drzainnas]

Thank you just if you don't mind me asking how do you choose the the right radius and the right nut slots gauge for a specific strings gauge since on the graph tech website it is not showing certain nuts for a specific strings gauges!! And lastly the website is showing the black nuts has much better results with tone and sustainability is it related to the Teflon amount % presence or other factors !! Thank you best regards from ENGLAND.

[@BrettBolzenthal]

Any recommendations if the new Tusq XL is not as thick as original nut? Leaving a slight space from end of Headstock?

[@BrettBolzenthal]

So to fill in the space so to speak

[@BrettBolzenthal]

So the thickness is less that the original but and space thickness.. I guess is the correct term for it.

[@GraphTechGuitarLabs]

It would be easier if we have your guitar model and the TUSQ XL nut you are installing. I'll assume you mean there is a space at the back of the nut, on the machine head side. Best solution is to use a thicker TUSQ XL Nut, and if you bought direct from Graph Tech, no problem on doing an exchange, even if you modified it (sanded, etc). Other option is to use a shim... thin piece of hardwood to fill in the gap. Best idea is to contact [e-mail] and they can find out more about your project and the options you have. All the best!

[@bobgreen3116]

Great video. Can I get a Tusq nut for my Glarry thine line Tele?

[@ustinkdave3405]

my experience with the Gibson electric slotted nut is that the D string is pre slotted tad too low.. i need to sand down till i get my D string slot perfect.. and file the rest of the other string slots down.

[@Tigerex966]

What would be all of the tools needed for a complete bridge pin, nut, saddle, replacement on an old acoustic i am restoring as a beginner? And where to find, are there any preferred kits.

[@gusviera3905]

Thanks, Nicole. That's a really neat hack, using the sanding board to hold the nut while you square it off. Cool. Thanks again. Great 335, by the way. Cheers.

[@buggzo]

She has a great voice and the production sound mixer knew how to capture it well. Sound >> picture ;)

[@RobKL2008]

Yeah doing the job behind the neck stock. so one cannot see it

[@mishimposble]

I'm changing the nut on a Squire Bullet with a TUSK XL but, noticed the new nut is lower height than the original and it needs a lot of sanding before it will be leveled to stop tilting on the bump in the middle. Seems like this is going to add more fret buzz than take it away which was the point of installing a new nut in the first place. I also noticed the spacing between the strings is wider than original. Did I get the wrong nut for my guitar?

[@jeroenleeuwerke6585]

Nice video! I like your clear and straight to the point explanation as if your explaining it to someone IRL. You put the icing on cake with a likeable lack of intro/outro chunter but forgot about the cherry by using only the imperial system.

[@AviMus82]

You didn’t mention what type of glue to use, and also we can use the tension of the strings to hold the nut in place while it dries? No clamps or anything?

[@ManfredElsingBielefeld]

so it has to be!!!Thx for your work!

[@coleadkison6875]

Best demo I’ve seen yet

[@StringsUp58]

WOW, that's all I gotta say. I bought an Epiphone ES335 Dot. The cheap Chinese strings sounded like crap and this guitar would not stay in tune. Installed this Tusq nut, took my time filing the height, put a quality set of 10's on there, and OMG, it's a totally different guitar. First time I ever installed a nut on a guitar, so thank you for this video, it made the replacement of that cheap plastic Chinese crap go so smooth. Luv my Epiphone dot now. Stays in tune beautifully. Young lady, Thank You.

[@gabrielsilveira84]

I'm going through the process right now, but I have a curved nut slot. How can I file the bottom of the nut (I already filed the little nub out) while keeping the correct radius?

[@dignes3446]

2:55 NICOLE ALOSINAC CERTIFIED BADASS MASTER LUTHIER

[@MdhLV]

What kind of glue is best? Just any old wood glue?

[@jayteesgear]

Nicole you might have just saved my LIFE! I need to do this on like 3 of my guitars! I’ll post a video on my page of how they come out😁🤘🏻

[@johnstephen7610]

At about 4:50 in the video, she says the gap distances should be "zero point zero 6" and "zero point 1." The diagram at lower right of screen shows differently, with one more "zero" after the decimal point. In other words her verbal description is ten times bigger than the diagram description. I am assuming the diagram is correct, but ???

[@realtusq]

Yup, you are correct , the diagram is correct , Nicole had a slip of the tongue we didn’t catch until we had published the video …

[@johnstephen7610]

@@realtusq thanks!

[@Darkness780]

Helpful video Thanks

[@milanm2605]

How can you possibly tell that the space between the first fret and the string is 0.010" just by looking at it?

[@TedLaceyGuitar]

you can’t lol

[@mikelliteras397]

Terminator eye.

[@GraphTechGuitarLabs]

Really good eyes! or.... 3 sheets of regular computer paper stacked together will get you pretty close.

[@PeterSz73]

Or a 5 dollar feeler gage from Harbor Freight maybe

[@erichemard7066]

I use business cards, stack them and measure with a caliper. Or you can get really technical and get a set of feeler gauges. A buddy of mine who was a guitar tech use to use old guitar strings that he would cut into 4” pieces and hammer them into the thickness that he liked and place them in the cases.

[@scotthauch4178]

There is a mistake in the video in regard to the gap between fret top and string bottom where the luthier says to make the high E-string gap “zero point zero six” and low E-string gap “zero point one”. That is incorrect, and should be “zero point zero zero six (0.006)” and “zero point zero one (0.010), otherwise you will have huge gaps of sixty thousandths and one hundred thousandths. You’re welcome, and for next to no cost - make one check per correction payable to me in the amount of sixty cents ($60.00) and one dollar ($100.00) ... see, decimal location does make a difference : )

[@robphillips8351]

Lol Yes indeed decimal position is important.

[@dr.stevenpennym.d.3241]

I have a D'angelico Deluxe Atlanta. The g-string is giving me some problems because of the angle from the tuning machine to the nut. Is there something I can do to help this condition. I think it's sticking a bit in throwing off my tuning.

[@VictorRiquelmeRock]

I need help. By having only the two E strings its the same tension of having all six? I think that with only two strings the nut will not be fully "compress to the neck" and measure of the thousands of inches would be bad? or am i wrong?

[@jackquentin1950]

I know it's a year late but I'll leave this here in case someone comes across this. It definitely has an effect but not when you're measuring at the first fret - it's negligible. If, say, you're measuring on the 12fret, that's more apparent.

[@raymihulka8539]

Good video.

[@darrencarillo7321]

When you sand down the thickness of the nut, you mentioned to sand down the front of the nut; is the front of the nut, the side facing the saddle, or the side facing the tuner? It's hard to tell by watching the video.

[@steelfalconx2000]

This video is nuts.

[@riyadlussholihin]

Elmers Glue is available in various types. What Elmers Glue do you use? Thank you.

[@ddunwoodie]

Elmers multi purpose white glue , Lepages has a similar one ... you just don’t want to use an epoxy or super glue ... as if you ever have to take the nut out again, they will probably take some wood out with it ...

[@riyadlussholihin]

@@ddunwoodie Sorry, are you the team of Graphtech?

[@riyadlussholihin]

@@ddunwoodie I saw in internet that Dave Dunwoodie was president of Graphtech. Is it you? I will follow your advice to use that glue.

[@OmegaPosi]

@@ddunwoodie Yeah... made this mistake with Gorilla Glue... I now need a new neck for my P-Bass...

[@bamsuth9650]

yeah it is​@@riyadlussholihin

[@kotymccallister5150]

So, do you guys make a tusq xl nut for les pauls with a 14" radius? Or will I just have to sand a pencil in half to trace a new radius and cut new slots? Or maybe just deepen the ones that are high... 🤔

[@jpayne3616]

I layed a strip of sandpaper down on the 15 fret of my guitar and sanded the nut to its radius. It worked

[@pay9011]

What conditions would move someone into changing the nut other than to enhance the sonic transfer amount or superior tone. Are there physical reasons to upgrade? I have an Epiphone el-00. I'm not a good player so upgrades for sound quality don't interest me at this point.

[@GraphTechGuitarLabs]

The stock nut that's on there will just be either plastic or something that isn't helping the guitar at all. Upgrading to a Tusq XL nut will help the string not bind in the nut to help with tuning stability, as well as have an improvement on the guitars sustain and tone!

[@DM-sl9hp]

I had to have the nut replaced on one of mine due to the slot getting a little messed up on the 1st string. Open E was buzzing and the damage to the nut was fairly obvious visually. That would be a good reason to change.

[@TheTanfieldKid]

I know its been a while since you posted this video but I have just ordered a new Graphtec top nut for my Acoustic Dreadnaught guitar. Do the measurements of the gaps between string and 1st fret differ between guitars? Stewmac seem to suggest different measurements. Thanks in anticipation.

[@noworries12]

why is there nerve wrecking loud music in the background when I try to listen what she says??

[@1980bwc]

Darn Canadians.

[@goodboyringo9716]

To keep you awake during the lesson.

[@ampegloud]

noworries That's because his usual some marketing jack off played the stupid music

[@MrStevecro]

nerve wracking perhaps, but not nerve wrecking?

[@andrewbevan4662]

Because they think people can't watch a video without music in the background

[@markr.devereux3385]

A great product without a doubt.

[@JoshBrown18]

Thanks Nicole

[@j.jester7821]

J. HonIs the recommended clearance 0.06 and 0.1" or .006 and .01" She states a value ten times that shown on the video graphic illustrates. decimal position matters. I would think .06 and .1 because 6/1000s would be rubbed and frets for sure.

[@lydmo8287]

I was going to ask about this. Can we get a clarification? I'm about to replace the nut on my Ibanez and need to be certain.

[@anthonynonya]

Can fine tuning be done by tuning to pitch then checking what the note is on the 1st fret? Low should be F at 1st fret? If it's high, the string is too high?

[@topjimmy1984vh]

What type of glue was used to secure the nut? Thanks!

[@tommcree5952]

Elmer's "Glue-All" white craft glue we all used in kindergarten, just enough to hold the foot of the nut in place, do not glue the side that backs against the fretboard

[@Fonkemman]

What's the grit of sandpaper for the bottom of the nut?

[@jonmatthews4254]

4:13 what's that in mm for the rest of the world please? What grits of sandpaper?

[@realtusq]

Sure, 0.010" = .254mm and 0.006" = .152mm for sandpaper grit if you have to reduce a lot, start with 220 and finish with 400 to 600. A small amount of sanding, just start and finish with 400 to 600 grit. Hope that helps.

[@jonmatthews4254]

@@realtusq many thanks, worked for me.

[@rawknbearbell7032]

Which side is the front face of the nut? I've seen that referenced but I can't find a close up of anyone sanding to be sure. My guess would be the side with the writing on it

[@scottmartin1875]

Front face is the smooth side, the one that touches the fingerboard

[@gsferrari]

At 4:53 she says “0.06 and 0.1 of an inch" and the image says 0.006 and 0.010 of an inch. Which one is correct?

[@ddunwoodie]

The print is correct , Nicole had a verbal typo with all the zero's she was saying

[@gsferrari]

@@ddunwoodie thank you

[@aace2ace]

She is a great teacher

[@olddemos378]

That's interesting that you recommend using wood glue. I'm not a luthier by any means, but I've done a few nut changes on my guitars. And the one time I used wood glue the nut actually came off when changing the strings. Haha I was angry about it, use super glue ever since. Just a little.

[@db.5811]

Thank you for this! After setting to graph tech specifications (0.010 & 0.006), if the action at the nut needs to be lowered should the nut be removed and sanded at the bottom as was done during installation or should the slots be filed down?

[@normanbyrne9868]

Personally, I would lower the nut height more rather than filing the slots down lower.

[@jubjub905]

To get it perfect you'll probably need to file each slot a little. For the most part though I found that they always need filing, but mainly to fit the string better.

[@maheshchander03]

Where did you get the block to hit the guitar nut with? Yes I know that any block would work and I know I can easily make one but it looks specific to another trade. Just asking out of curiosity. Thanks.

[@jasonabrahammusic3613]

Great video thanks for sharing

[@jackbandel]

the nut slots on these preslotted nuts don’t need any additional filing?

[@GraphTechGuitarLabs]

To adjust the height, you just sand the bottom of the nut... here is a link on installing a pre-slotted nut... just click on "nuts". www.graphtechtorial.com/

[@Isaacthompson]

THANKS!

[@RavenMadd9]

thank You Nicole!

[@davidfoster5906]

Can you tell me where to find the find your nut guide thanks.

[@GraphTechGuitarLabs]

Here's a link to the GT catalog... the back 30 or so pages have life-size line drawings of Graph Tech's nuts and saddles, just print it out at 100% and you can match up the length, etc. etc..

[@GraphTechGuitarLabs]

graphtech.com/pages/catalogs

[@scotthesterly2320]

I am a novice totally but it seems a better idea to take excess width off the back side. Guess not? It was a great video and i appreciate the instruction quality. Thank you.

[@10000rambos]

Scott Hesterly The back side of the GraphTech nuts are rounded over, so using a flat surface, like the front side- butt up against a flat sanding surface would get better results. Take it from someone who’s ruined more of these things than not 😂

[@scotthesterly2320]

Yeah i followed the directions and got a great fit width wise and length. Had to shim to bottom a bit. I am doing a build from Precision Guitar Kits. It is a strat style. I chose the BQL 5043 00. The nut width is 1 11/16" and it is a flat bottom. The channel cut for the nut slot was a bit deeper than the nut hieght. Shimmed it with a piece of business card. Plays but still a touch low. The card was .016" was thinking i may need .020". I am learning a bunch and having a good time at it. Thanks for your reply 10,000 rambos. Bet it is easy for you now.... Be blessed in all you do.

[@MegaCleez]

should I be able to do a behind the nut string bend and have it come back to perfect pitch (i.e. not be sharp)? And if so, does this indicate a nut slot that's wonky?

[@whowantstogetnaked]

what kind of glue?

[@lyric.kayden]

Super glue is readily available to everyone and it works great. Just a small dab about the size of a BB on each end of the nut slot. The glue is only to hold the nut in place when all the strings are off the guitar to keep the nut from falling off. Otherwise the strings hold the nut down with tension. Wood glue may be used but you would need to clamp the nut to the neck which takes time to dry while clamped.

[@jadequilatan]

mighty bond

[@JCBigCat]

@@lyric.kayden or you could just string the instrument and have a stringed clamp LOL

[@raybrown3510]

A drop of Elmer's

[@12south31]

Elmer's and other wood glue is not recommended because it will take wood off if you ever remove it and also super glue will spread more evenly than wood glue allowing the new nut to seat better.

[@sbdreamin]

Hi Nicole I need to do this on my new Gretsch bass. The stock nut is horrible. Can you tell me the string heights I should be looking for? Thanks in advance.

[@ddunwoodie]

Hi, thanks for your question. Here is a link to bass string heights at the Graph Tech site...www.graphtech.com/docs/default-document-library/bass-nut-installation-instructions.pdf?sfvrsn=2 If you have any further questions, please call us a 1-800-388-7011, thanks, Dave

[@kiillabytez]

What grit sandpaper for this.

[@danchallis437]

Thanks for the video. Can a 43mm nut work on a guitar with a 42mm width?

[@GraphTechGuitarLabs]

Potentially, you mainly want to look at the string spacing to see if that matches up. If it's a little too long or too tall, you can easily sand that down to get the perfect fit!

[@danchallis437]

@@GraphTechGuitarLabs thanks very much 👍😃

[@brandonburke4320]

I just checked out this video because I want to replace the nut on my strat. What type of tool do you use to measure the string height?

[@normanbyrne9868]

Use a string action ruler like the one here in this link... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GH436CQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@paraviolence]

What kind of glue you use?

[@alfalders3020]

Excellent. Thank you. ☮️

[@GraphTechGuitarLabs]

You're welcome Al. Much appreciated and more to come. Stay tuned and stay safe. GT Team

[@j.jester7821]

While sanding the bottom of the nut It is also a good idea to place a piece of wood at a right angle to your sanding block so you maintain a level bottom on the nut. place the flat side of the nut against the 90' angle while move across the sanding block.

[@TLguitar]

Hello. I have a 2010 Gibson Les Paul Studio I wanted to give a Graph Tech nut as I'm planning to install a tremolo. It seems like the PT-6010-00 should be the right model, but the measurements I have of my LP's current nut are quite off to the specs given on Graph Tech's website. The width and length are pretty close, but aren't exact to either PT-6010-00 or PT-6000-00. The E to e distance is 37mm rather than ~36mm, and the biggest difference is with the height - unless I measured incorrectly, the current nut my LP has is 5mm tall, while the Graph Techs are around 9mm? I don't have fret buzz from open strings so I doubt the nut should be almost twice as tall. Am I supposed to actually sand off 4mm when installing it or are the grooves somewhat deeper?

[@UnleashTheBlob]

What kind of glue did you use?

[@GraphTechGuitarLabs]

Just some basic elmers glue, or some wood glue diluted with some water, you're not wanting to bind the nut to the headstock, just some light adhesion to keep it in place.

[@scottraycraft1885]

Great video Put this on an epiphone Slots were perfect used feeler gauges However old nut removal, the sanding took way longer than shown on video lol Patience and and u can do it

[@bruceewing166]

Thanks

[@robertgilmore5496]

Don't you have to file the slots to match the break angle of the strings?

[@vladimirlopez7840]

Robert gilmore not on the graph tech nut. The back edge or the edge on the headstock side is rounded over quite a bit.

[@lydmo8287]

My neck has a curvature, so I can't sand it flat. How do I sand the curvature of the neck to the nut?

[@JP-lz4fp]

What about 7 string guitars? Are the height specs the same for low B and high E string?

[@troykelso]

There's no such thing as a seven-string Dot, stupid.

[@fingerfret8645]

Thanks, Nicole. BTW, how did you measure the height? Thanks!

[@GraphTechGuitarLabs]

Calipers would be the best option! However, a standard tape measure would suffice.

[@johnsfixton8857]

on my Gibson loose strings remove old nut clean old glues put new tousq PQ 6010 00 tune all strings to pitch measure with feeler gauge press 3rd fret top off 1st fret bottom of low E =0,80 mm i need 0,25 mm loose strings remove new nut take the 0,50 filler put in a flat surface take also new nut put it in the flat surface with the filer mark with pencil how match you have to sand remove put it again tune all strings to pitch measure now i have 0,40 take it out put in a flat surface with the 0,10 mm filler mark sand put it on again BOOM now is more than 0,25 mm and less than 0,30 mm perfect for my agressive playing thank you i glued it with 2 parts clear epoxy

[@vincenttesla]

Ty lol