TOP 5 Ways you are DESTROYING your WW2 jeep (without knowing!)

There are 5 easy ways you are wrecking your WW2 without even knowing, lets find out what they are!
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[@atlanticrf]

After 35 years of dealing with WW II jeeps, I found that the most common way they are destroyed, is when a collector disassembles it and for some reason they never get it back together.

[@Greendot319]

Ha ha thats also true. A bad resto of a good unrestored jeep is the the top way to destroy one!

[@farside7803]

They guy I bought mine from said the same thing and that’s the first thing I did cause the frame was f***** but! 6 years later I’m almost done!

[@sithinstructor]

Exactly true. I rescued mine from such a state. Mostly torn apart, missing a bunch of parts, half 6v half 12v...

[@jamesbarran-scott437]

Same with old landrovers , they get bought, stripped and then when the hard work needs to start they buy another one , then repeat. These folks are generally the first to get upset if someone saves a scrap one and fits big tyres to it though 🤨

[@Mikepet]

Sadly this happened to mine. about 30 years or so my dad bought our jeep from our neighbor, took it apart and mostly restored it. Then he began building our house and since then it stood in a barn without a gearbox. The gearbox lost to times 2019 because of Covid we had the time to fix it up. Now since it stood for so long there is a bit rust and gunk build up in the cooling channels of the Engine and it overheats. Thats the next part we do

[@benjohnson1082]

Another good winter tip for the army jeep - switch to the proper Winter weight oil recommended in the manuals. Summer weight oil will suffer poor flow and struggle to warm up even if you are getting the engine fully warmed up. Oil is cheap, engines aren’t.

[@Greendot319]

Multi-weight Ben, Multi-weight!

[@benjohnson1082]

@@Greendot319 You know it!

[@rexjolles]

I learned this lesson with my car and it's so sluggish and hates running in winter so I out the oil winter grade, fixed it quick.

[@richardlahan7068]

That's one of the reasons we went to multi-weight oils in the 50s. Even with modern engines, idling cars to let the engine warm up (especially in cold weather) is bad for the engine because oil may not get distributed in the engine the way it should. Just crank it, put it in gear and drive.

[@carlcolvin8320]

Don't forget to change the air in the tires from summer air to winter air 😂😂😂.

[@VinnyMartello]

We’re doing a partial restoration on my dad’s 1943 MB. Brakes, wheel bearings, gas lines, carb, steering, etc. It runs surprisingly good. Drives like a high end shopping cart. Has been in several parades and doesn’t overheat. It’s a blast to drive! And yes we actually got it running and didn’t just sit on it for fifteen years!

[@Greendot319]

Drives like a high end shopping cart is a good description of the WW2 jeep

[@-oiiio-3993]

@@Greendot319 One does not sit _in_ a Jeep as much as _on_ it.

[@johnmorris4753]

My first car was a 1965 Mustang with a 3 speed manual transmission. It was nonsencronized in first and reverse just like the one you described in your Jeep. I can definitely relate to what you were saying about shifting into first while still moving. I did the same thing: stop before putting it in first. It was hard to do this in heavy traffic. This car was my daily driver for several years.

[@Greendot319]

Stopping is the only way to really ensure no transmission damage/wear unless you are very well practiced at double declutching! Mustang as first driver is impressive, only 3 speed though!

[@johnmorris4753]

@@Greendot319 it was the base model. It had a 200 cubic inch 6 cylinder with a 3 speed manual transmission.

[@josephg41]

That's the Ford 3.03 "Top loader" 3 speed, it came in the Mustang and just about every other Ford of the era, Galaxies, Fairlanes, Falcons, Trucks, and obviously the Mustang. And it actually DOES have synchros in first. Rebuilt several over the years. It's not synchroed in reverse though you're right about that. Not sure when you had yours but it might've had worn first gear synchros to the point where it didn't seem synchronized, but I promise you it had them.

[@FordHoard]

@@josephg41 I've always heard that first didn't have synchros back then. I have a 61 F-100 and a 68 F-100 and you have to be stopped to get them into first. It's no big deal for me.

[@johnmorris4753]

@@josephg41 You must have built the type used with the V8 or larger 6 cylinder. My car had a 200 cubic inch 6 cylinder. The type used with the 170 cubic inch 6 cylinder(64 1/2) and the 200 cubic inch 6 cylinder 65 model were only synchronized in 2nd and third. V8 models were synchronized in first. I had to rebuild mine. It only had one syncronizer.

[@markstutzman547]

Enjoyed this very much. Mine’s not. Military Jeep but a ‘53 3A. It’s been part of our family since 1968. It it still the most reliable vehicle I’ve ever owned and I love it sooooo much. Keep up the awesome work and here’s wishing you a Happy Christmas!

[@Greendot319]

Thanks, same to you!

[@TheKRU251]

That made me laugh Matt. Why? So spot-on especially on the gearchanges. I must admit to the 'stopped before first is engaged' as the second gear will allow slow running etc so only need first rarely. I so look forward to these videos !!!!! Many thanks for 'braving the cold' to bring us 'jeepers' these !!!! Happy X'mas to ya .

[@prussia1557]

I don't own a WW2 era Jeep but I am a history major and am a giant nerd. Great video.

[@Greendot319]

Glad you enjoyed it, you don't have to own something or be the person the history is about to enjoy it! Have fun!

[@beatglauser9444]

Talking about changing gears: I had the courage with old cars changing gears without using the clutch at all: Just like you said ask, don't tell. It is a bit more tricky downshifting than upshifting. You must rev the engine up high and put the gear in very swiftly. And I agree: The worst thing for your old cars is this terrible ethanol in your tank! Once in the States I could not get ethanol free gas. A brandnew carburettor was flooded with a stuck needle in the desert! It is a miracle that the car did not burn to the ground. A hit with the hammer on the carb fixed the problem once and for all.

[@MrPDoff]

It's easier to not use the clutch than double, declutchin. A Clutch is a mechanic device the assist in lining up the speed of the engine to the gearbox. So if you rev the engine to the correct speed, the clutch isn't necessary. I use to demonstrate that in a Bedford MJ on the vehicle park. Going up the box from 1st to 4th then back down to first. Although once your driving I can see why you would go down to 1st.

[@austinclark8727]

I learned this on the utility vehicle I was taught to drive stick on, it’s amazing to me people try to recommend this method on modern cars with synchros and that seriously breaks things. But yeah, totally legitimate on semis, trucks, things with “rough and tough” gearboxes, good skill to learn

[@deezelfairy]

@@austinclark8727 It's a lot harder to do with a synchro box and you can indeed do a lot of damage - absolutely no snatching gears in quick like a non synchronised constant mesh box. The trick to it is patience, when it's the right time, it'll just fall in more or less by itself with next to force on the gear lever. It takes a lot of practice and knowing the vehicle well. Taught myself to do it years ago in work vans to give my left leg a rest in heavy traffic.

[@MatelotsousMarin]

All good tips there. I always try to let my engine run up to operating temperature. I actually bottled out of a drive today because of the salty roads. I'd love to know where to find a hull compass like yours, haven't been able to source one anywhere. Any ideas? Thanks, Peter

[@Greendot319]

Thanks Peter, I'm avoiding the salt this year and from now on, it isn't fair on these vehicles. About Hull compasses sadly its just a matter of finding one, no supplies of them sorry to say :/

[@ruebencover5795]

I am with you on not taking my jeep out with salt on the roads. Salt is a killer on the body work

[@johndoe43]

You always do a great job. That's why you have a great Jeep. I have the t 14 a and t150 transmissions. I don't go in 1st unless very slight movement or normally a dead stop. If someone is behind me they may have to wait a second. I won't tear them up worried about the other guy unless we're talking life or death.

[@janhanchenmichelsen2627]

Good advices, and applicable to a lot of older cars and machinery. Some of this I even learned at driving school, mid eighties. My car is not old, but I‘ve got a boat. Every two months during winter I fire up the almost 30 year old Yanmar diesel (6000 hours and still in good nick). Mainly to charge the batteries. After start, oil pressure check and cooling check, i rise the revs to around 1200 rpm, well above idle, but below the rpm where the turbo really kicks in, get some heat, then engage gear and leave to run for at least 45 minutes. (The moorings won’t suffer). Then check charging (ammeter) and voltage. This will charge the start battery (the drive train is insulated from house batteries and shore power charger to avoid galvanic corrosion), remove condensation from oil, heat the engine bay (to get rid of any damp), and clean the prop from recent fouling. Works well. No engine trouble the 6-7 years I‘ve owned the boat. And now I want a JEEP. Again!

[@Greendot319]

All good precautions for the conscientious owner, get saving for that jeep

[@janhanchenmichelsen2627]

@@Greendot319 I COULD afford the jeep, but there are no private garages in our neighbourhood. Just 200-300 year old wooden houses and steep, narrow alleys.That’s why I gave up classic cars. Tried to restore a Vitesse 2L, but had to drive a really long way to the car. Too cumbersome.

[@Emtbtoday]

With asking the gearbox to change gear like that you'll find it'll slide in without the clutch! That's a way we were trained in mechanics for safety if anything happend to the breaks and you had to down shift to stop!

[@tigerwolf78]

Great video!! The scenery totally takes you back as well. Keep up the great work.

[@Greendot319]

Thanks, its a jeep playground round here

[@ryanduckworth1779]

I've got a 1928 model A roadster and it too has actually no synchronized gears at all so double clutching is just sowing you have to do all the time eventually you get used to it

[@alistairsmith4297]

Handling those crash (no syncromesh) gearboxes really is a learned skill. Eventually you can reach the point where you can kind of feel that the engine is at the correct RPM. It's not really something I can explain, but I occasionally drive a series 2 Land Rover. Crash gears on first and second, syncromesh on third and fourth. Shifting gears upwards is a lot easier than downshifting though.

[@GlamStacheessnostalgialounge]

I was never really good with nonsynchro boxes, ironic since the first vehicle I learned to drive was an old tractor with a 3 speed crash box. But now that I installed a "new" gearbox in my old Peugeot 309, I found that the 2nd gear synchro is knackered on it after I put it in. Oh well, been learning to drive with it now, it's not too hard once you get it down.

[@highdownmartin]

I drive a 61 lwb rover every day. I don’t even think about changing up, it’s ingrained now and giving a little blip and coming back 3 to2 is easily accomplished but a down shift to 1 I’ll only do at walking pace, and you can feel the dogs! The synchro on third is a bit knackered and my worst changes are 4 to 3 where sometimes it’s slick and occasionally I should have dipped the clutch as the synchro hasn’t worked as expected. I’ve seen Landrovers advertised on eBay where they say the gearbox has all the gears but first to second is very noisy. Pig ignorant owner alert.

[@dodgeme1986truck]

I drive a cmv non synchronized the trick to up and downshifting nonsynchronized transmissions is double clutching... At the rate of- clutch in... Outta gear... Release&Rev... clutch in... in gear. At the pace of quarter to half beat (those musically inclined wheels on the bus/ muffin man).

[@petersmith4455]

hi. it was normal for us to double-de-clutch in the 60s with cars and land rovers, the yonger generation coming up now find it mind bogaling. its not a big deal just normal driving whether its an austin 7 or jeep

[@alexandersheppard1997]

For as much as people talk about how tough and indestructible these things are, they really are fragile pieces of shit. No wonder Jeep is still the US' least reliable brand.

[@Grahame59]

Another great video. Btw, I'm sure it's not intentional but you are buttoning your greatcoat up the girls' way!

[@deezelfairy]

I'll add to the point of only running an engine until barely warm (not full op. temp) is not only do you not get rid of the condensation, you actually make the issue worse every time you run it. Every time you a barely warm block cools down, even more condensation forms and it just continuously builds up. I'm a forklift mechanic and it's the biggest issue we get with LPG/propane trucks. Start up, move one pallet, turn off, repeat several times a day. By the time the service comes round the oil looks like you've blown a head gasket. Many times I've drained a pint or more of straight water out the sump and frequently rocker covers are full of white emulsion.

[@nicholaswilson7734]

Dead on. I see the same issues with tractors and semi trucks.

[@paperroutee]

bruh i wonder what the postee was thinking 😭😭 he done seen a man in full ww2 gear and a keep from over 60 years ago

[@markus-pg6me]

Den Gang einfühlen hat man mir beigebracht.

[@dinofalabrino8522]

Long term storage is absolutely horrible for the whole brake system, cooling system, and the fuel system. Just draining the fuel and spraying oil preservative in the cylinders will guarantee a whole bunch of trouble. I advise against it.

[@Teraskas]

5:11 *Laughs in Dodge WC 51 and Chevrolet C15A* xD

[@davidgold5961]

3:08 full sythetic oil, such as Amsoil or Mobil 1, maintains its viscosity despite being very cold or very hot.

[@MikeBaxterABC]

14:19 I thought I as the only one who still said "Centigrade" :)

[@joshcowart2446]

All the non country boy Texans will think this is the redneckest story. I learned how to drive on a military jeep. Not ones as old as this. I don’t know their age but they were probably made in the 70s. Much of my family worked at ft hood. When the military switched to hummers, they had a bunch of old jeeps. The military would usually just throw them in a junk yard. They never cared much about waste. My uncle knew people there and could buy stuff. He bought two jeeps and 8 motors for parts. He’d put a roping seat on the front and we used it to rope cows. It wasn’t as good as a horse usually but occasionally is you had a big wild one it was better because they’d charge or possibly pull down a horse. I remember one taking off after someone and almost got him . Luckily this large cow was about 5 feet from hooking him when she hit the end of the rope. She couldn’t budge the jeep and was pulled over backwards. Those things would go anywhere. I was shocked at how much they could do with just stick parts and basic military tires. I learned how to drive it when I was probably 12. It had a push button starter like the one in the video but on the floor behind the clutch. For those unfamiliar, that was the old way of making sure you didn’t start it in gear and left a way to start it in gear if need be. One summer the battery was bad so id just park it on a hill every time I was done driving for the day and then throw it in 3rd and push start it on the hill. I even heard stories of my dad and uncle when they were younger turning one over. They just tied a horse to it and pulled it back on its tires. I had lots of fun times when I was young driving one of those around.

[@Mikepet]

Sadly the Engine in my Jeep overheats because sadly there is rust in the water channels ... i need to clean it out first :/

[@Greendot319]

Yep, get on with it ;) jeep cooling system is very good and you shouldn't have overheating problems with a clear system, lots of products on the market to flush and clean radiators, will have your jeep back to fighting fit in no time

[@nickaxe771]

Well done mastering double de clutching.....I learnt it prob 50 plus years ago....on old landrovers....and the heavy trucks.....no syncro on any gears on trucks back then. Re modern oil.....far as I know....fully synthetic oil is not as good at protecting internals as mineral or semi synthetic. I have no idea what oil you guys use in your Jeeps....but worth bearing in mind. I winter I put a bung in my exhaust tail pipe.

[@scrapinpennies4365]

Popped up in my recommended assuming i have possession of a WWII Jepp.

[@Greendot319]

It assumed wrong

[@GarmrNL]

In the 90s I helped my dad build a Jeep from mostly NOS parts (I was 14 at the time, so I didn't do anything technical) and we drove it a lot. It's still at my mom's house and after my dad passed away it's been sitting in the garage. I always told my mom not to sell it because it holds so many good memories of me and my father and now I moved to a house with a garage and this summer I'm going to replace all the fluids and attempt to start it to drive it home :-) I found and subscribed to your channel yesterday and I really appreciate the content from which I already learned loads!

[@Pablo-nt6hv]

I dont own a WWII Jeep and dont plan on having one yet im here watching this

[@Greendot319]

Well you must but one then, youtube doesn't lie!

[@womble321]

It's now an offence in the UK to "warm up" an engine. You must drive away immediately. You are not allowed to allow an engine to idle either. Unless your working on it. Sorry but that is currently the law. No you cannot wait while a car demists either. Don't you love politicians!

[@Greendot319]

Ha! I imagine it refers to heating up the interior of your car rather than the necessity of warming a vintage engine, in any case if you could find a policeman (fat chance) then logic could probably be used to persuade them, or maybe not 😅

[@TheHikrr]

Das unbeliebteste Importfahrzeug seiner Klasse in 1944/45😄

[@leosypher9993]

winter? but there isnt even a single meter of snow

[@franic_scopes9165]

With airplanes, we have a rule NEVER idle below 1000 rpm. Something I have always done for my jeeps is run either 85L or 100LL in them some people say that 100LL will destroy those engines however, these engines are (aledgedly) a low enough compression that the valves will not over heat. I personally have never had one show any signs of damage when running on 100LL. I prefer 85L because that is what old flat fenders were designed to run on. Also you can leave avgas in the jeep for a lot longer than you can with mogas or unleaded. Edit: added things I thought would be helpful

[@DiabloOutdoors]

Could be interesting, but too much talk and no timestamp.

[@thedolt9215]

Once again, good stuff!

[@ruebencover5795]

Just like to say thanks for all the great videos you have put out and have a nice Christmas

[@dmcarpenter2470]

Great video. I enjoyed it. Looking forward to the next vid, and the next jeep!

[@alantaylor353]

However people are destroying their Jeeps today..... It's still better than the way they were originally destroyed.!!! I have a 1/6 scale RC Jeep by Roc hobby & it's honestly a work of art, it's literally a display grade model you can drive. It has all the pioneer tools, a .50 cal on a pintle, canvas seats, foldable windscreen, opening bonnet with a detailed engine & the steering wheel is on a servo so it turns left & right... When you fit a scale GI figure with movable arms it looks bloody awesome.!! It's super capable too.!.. It'll go almost anywhere. You can get a canvas top & a trailer too. The only concession to performance over realism is that they've made it with coilover suspension... But you can get a leaf spring conversion kit if you want. They also do a 1/12 scale version that is leaf sprung as standard, it's every bit as detailed & realistic with the canvas top & trailer available too. The 1/12 one costs around £200 & the 1/6 is around £330 ish. Roc hobby do all sorts of other vehicles too, they do a Type 82 Kubelwagen, a Type 82E (Beetle) Kommandeurwagen, a sweet looking Unimog & various civilian off road vehicles from the 50's up to modern stuff. Roc hobby/FMS hobby/Eazy rc (same company) have really taken the scale hard body RC sector by storm this past 18 months, sometimes releasing 2 new models a month.!!!! Unheard off.! Each RC is better than the last with some hobby firsts like 1/18 scaled 2 speed gearboxes & portal axles.. All metal geared too.!! A wee tip.. Roc is the premium one, FMS is mid tier & Eazy RC the budget one with cheaper electronics... But they're fundamentally the same models.. Anyways.. HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE & BEST WISHES FROM SCOTLAND 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 🙏 ♥

[@loikborris9832]

you should see our cj3a😂

[@echohunter4199]

I recommend anyone with a strong affection to this vehicle to buy one, even if it’s in crappy condition. I’ve restored 31 Military Vehicles since 1993 and in those, I restored 2 Willy’s MB Jeeps (both 1945 dated) back to factory original condition. The assessment is the critical part of the process, you may have an MB but find it has a bunch of rare Ford parts on it. Know what the correct dash panel gauges look like and what shape they’re in. The engine bay may look like homemade sin but it doesn’t take much to bring it back to glory. For paint, buy some 319 OD green from RAPCO, Gelispie coatings is the best paint, I usually bought a case of the paint pressed into spray cans and had a gallon to paint the body with. By having the spray cans, this allows you to paint each smaller parts/pieces as you restore them little by little, don’t leave the part without any paint or primer on them since sometimes people will pause a restoration and a couple years of rust can set in. Wallace Tires sells new tires and tubes for these, make sure you have some “combat wheels” so you can change the tires in your garage but be careful. MD Juan makes excellent reproduction body parts but in the early 90’s, they were pretty bad which meant I had to make changes to a part to make it correct. Don’t mess with restoring the fuel tank, I just ordered a new reproduction tank from G503.com, Ron Fitzpatrick Jeep parts, Ron knows what he’s doing and has excellent parts sourced from around the world. Good luck on finding the original radio and accessories, pretty hard to locate but it is possible. I always carried some spare ignition parts just in case but it never let me down to need them. Setting the valves in the engine is very important as well as using correct oil. It’ll cost around $4,000 in all the parts for a full restoration to original condition but some will leave the engine and power system alone if it was “civilianized” to 12 volt. I used an 8 volt battery for the original 6 volt starter so it had a little more power to turn over the starter, it makes a big difference! For the voltage regulator, it’s simple to hollow out an old original regulator and install a newer 8 volt regulator then paint the original regulator with “crinkle paint” for that paint, go to a,local Harley Davidson dealer and buy a can there or you should fine some online I suppose. Just remember to NEVER use Phillips screws! They only used slot screws for these vehicles during the war. Everything this gentleman said is great knowledge for you to remember and keep an eye out for fuel leaks since sometimes people didn’t properly tighten the fuel lines during the restoration or, they made a mistake on the flanging on the fuel lines. The transmission is pretty bullet proof so inspect it carefully and it’ll likely be in good shape but if not, replace the damaged parts. For windshield glass, just visit any local glass shop and have them sell you some safety glass panels to the dimensions you provide them, it’s a lot cheaper than ordering them but make sure you get a price quote first, I’ve seen a glass shop want to charge me an insane price for a $50 panel. Doing the restoration requires basic knowledge but read up on the details so you know what to look for and ask questions to someone you trust if you’re not sure. Yes, these Jeeps are expensive but that’s why you’re buying a project vehicle. Make sure you know what the correct Jeep engine looks like since a lot of people would slap in some other 4 cylinder engine if they needed to. Each engine has a casting number down by the lower side of the block, that’s how you know exactly what you have. There’s some great people in this hobby and they will assist if you’re polite and show a little gratitude, there’s a lot of military vehicle clubs around the country so check in your area for one and visit a couple meetings. Those clubs will often have events where they horsetrade/sell parts that you may need and at much better prices than ebay!

[@carlcolvin8320]

An ol Army Sgt, US Army 78-92. My squad leader had a pretty good sense of humor as well as a practical joker. We had the M-151 jeeps in West Germany. He told the driver that October is here and he needs to take the Jeep up to maintenance and change out the summer for winter air in the tires. The Maintenance Sgt E-7 came over to my Squad leader and told him don't do that again all my mechanics are rolling around laughing so hard they can't get any work done. The driver took it in stride. At 1600 hrs formation the 1,st Sgt told the Company that there is no reason to change the air in your tires because winter is here.😂😂😂

[@mattheweburns]

I wish my 1991XJ jeep Cherokee Laredo had a lubrication chart. I wish all my cars did. When you go to any of those places and say “leave the chassis“ likely you are getting a shitty oil change where the over torque the oil pan drain plug and they may or may not grease all of the fittings if any at all

[@olivier3847]

10:39 any info on those modified mudguards? i've only seen them a couple of times on pictures...field conversions? but why, when, where?

[@Greendot319]

In the winter of 44 front mudguard extensions are fairly common. They are locally made, no kits for them

[@olivier3847]

@@Greendot319 thanks

[@General_Eisenhower1945]

Always look forward to it! I haven't taken mine out much since we had a baby, but I will when it snows!

[@HopGrasser]

Why am I watching this? I don’t even own a Jeep.

[@Greendot319]

No, you don't own a jeep now 🤣

[@markrossow6303]

yes, double clutching down into 1st Profile pic is 1943 Willys MB at Ft. Huachuca Was in North Africa -- big 2nd fuel tank under passenger seat

[@beatglauser9444]

I was used to double clutch and all those things Fourty years ago driving unsynchronised trucks and offroad vehicles. I bet I would make quite scratchy gear changes today until I would get used to it again. My old Chevies have the same system: Unsynchronised first, but synchronised second and third. Honestly I nearly always put the first only after stopping. Those Chevy six cylinder engines are very torqy so no need to put it into first while driving. Sometimes I show people that you can start driving the car in the third gear.

[@Greendot319]

its a real skill to look after these boxes properly, but well worth it in the end.

[@Bbbuddy]

Nice video. Good advice about warming up splash-oiled engines. All vehicles of that era required regular lubrication by the operator. The “lube job” was as ubiquitous as todays oil change service. Some cars had an oil can mounted under the hood for all the linkages that required regular lubrication. With regard to shifting, there is almost no circumstance in which you would want to downshift into first while still moving (maybe trying to maintain momentum up a steep hill?). If the vehicle is moving at all, second gear is good enough. Second gear is also good for stopping the cluster gear to allow quick shifts from neutral into first or reverse when the clutch is first depressed at a stop. At a stop, shift into second after depressing the clutch, and you’ll then be able to get into first or reverse more easily.

[@fastinradfordable]

I been a vw guy and instinctively hit 2nd before 1st or reverse. My gearbox is from 1990 and still like new.

[@africadreamin]

An engine block heater from Amazon on a timer will keep damp at bay and help stop moister build up in the sump over winter.

[@mikeholland1031]

I would think a block heater would create condensation

[@allanrichards3752]

I don't have a Jeep but have run a 65 Mustang for over 25 years. I like driving it so I do drive in the winter months. Fortunately in the UK there are suitable days in the winter months where there is no snow salt or rain on the roads. I totally agree that if you start the engine then it is essential to give the vehicle a good run. I take the Mustang on the motorway and cruise for around 10 miles at 70mph. Probably difficult in the Jeep but the idea is to make it work. I would also say it is important to brim the fuel tank. I had one tank rot through at the top. This was due to condensation. I also think for the winter a battery conditioner is a good thing to have. Not sure if you can get 6v ones though?

[@Greendot319]

Brimming the tank is a good idea

[@rainbowdashieness]

Double clutching is defiantly an acquired skill, glad I got trained and have driven manual non-synchronous gearboxes

[@billhadden4760]

Hi all I have a 1943 Ford GPW, stationed in Townsville Queensland Australia during WW2 US Marines Base section 3 Military Police. All matching Numbers and stock standard and still running 6 volt system and runs very well. Also I enjoy tuning into green dot I can send photos on request if interested Best regards Bill down under (Australia.😊

[@queefcheif9306]

did the British army ever make their own jeep for ww2 or were the ones America was producing used?

[@Greendot319]

There was a British specification version produced by the Americans, thanks US! This version sadly survived in little form today as they are all turned into US specification

[@Kreatorisbackyt]

British used mainly armoured Carriers instead of jeeps But jeep usage was also widespread

[@MG-id7hl]

Just bought a Hotchkiss M201. Loving the insight your videos give 👍🏻

[@ezequielpiacenza3776]

👍👍👍🌟

[@SGStauch]

Okay.. nice to see other People has also problems with double clutching on old Vehicels with unsynconised 1st and rear gear..

[@P7777-u7r]

I'm surprised these have syncros at all with how new of a technology that was at the time

[@aldolajak1267]

I had a 48 Willys CJ2A, (essentially the same as the MB), and I downshifted into 1st gear on the fly regularly, without using the clutch. While coasting in 2nd, and with a little teasing of the throttle, you can easily slip it out of 2nd into neutral, and then, again by teasing the throttle, drop it into 1st without so much as a gear scrape. I used this technique years later, on my 88 Ford bronco, when the clutch failed.

[@maddhatter3564]

most of these points is just basic care and driving of ANY pre 70 vehicle. I learned to drive in mid 60s trucks without synchro first and first gen OHV engines. Todays cars are so simple to maintain and operate no one learns. TY for the info and remember y'all this applies to ALL pre 70 cars and trucks

[@lowbonnet72]

Hey. always like your video's and your presenting is top notch! What I noticed about your jacket is that the way you currently buttoned it, it would belong to someone who would normally sit on the passenger seat. because this way the wind would not get in while driving. I have an original jeep coat made from sheep skin inside and it is buttoned the same way as yours. I was told (at Beltring) it was usually used by a soldier who was higher in rank, not the driver of the jeep.

[@Greendot319]

Ha ha, take a look and see if you can work out why I buttoned it that way, there is a reason!

[@martin9711]

A brilliant post Mr Dot Every day is a school day. Thank you

[@DK-mt1xw]

After 84 years of seeing WW II jeeps, I found that the most common way they were destroyed, is when an axis soldier attacked them, for some reason they never get back together! 😅

[@michaeljohnson-li5nn]

Not sure about draining down the fuel system. On my classic motorcycles I always top up the fuel tanks (with Esso E5) prior to storing away for the winter. This is to stop any corrosion forming inside the walls the tank. I also use a fuel stabiliser called Sta-Bil, this helps keep the fuel fresh and discourages corrission. I run the engine with the fuel tap in the off position to empty the fuel pipes and carburettor. My bikes always start and run nicely come the springtime.

[@mortenf.hansen6512]

Regarding gearshift … easiest way to learn proper gear shifting is to drive a Ford A with no syncro. Here you need to learn double clutching and floating gearshift ‘asking’ the gears to please shift gear 😂

[@sfertonoc]

I had John Cleese and Atkinson vibes with the repeat takes on turning at the intersection. It was such simple humor without trying.

[@bobbates7343]

Being in Canada I sure know about warming the car up. I have to say it is also important to consider the transmission and drive train all in all . I have been in such cold weather that even with a new truck it took a minute or so before the truck would move when the truck was in drive due to the fluids being so cold and thick . Once it got going it was fine but each day I would drive slow and easy for the first number of miles in the winter

[@Fur_Monkey_Jeep_Works]

One thing I have learned is apparently the GPW engines were weaker then the Mb ones, every GPW engine I’ve found for sale has had a crack or too 😢

[@78a67h]

I think you are going a little overboard on some points. So who wants to change into 1st gear on-the-go, which is hard to do on even modern cars. The Jeep is already sufficiently low geared to easily pull you round the corner in 2nd. And the whole process of "sealing" the engine when winter-parked and draining all the fluids is going way too far. After all the vehicle was designed to go to war, not to be treated like an expensive Mink coat

[@timkirkpatrick9155]

Double clutch shifting, clutch in take out of 2nd, clutch out, clutch in match rpm then shift into first gear. More or less the same for shifting a no synchro-mesh transmission up or down gears like large old trucks.

[@reusablematerials]

brilliant but you forgot to tell us about puting the bag accross the radiator , I see you did it to yours and its a great idea, pity we cant buy a roller blind for the radiators like the early toyota landcruisers had so as soon as the temperature is up you can just roll up the blind, I had a Norwegian jeep that had one of these fitted standard and you could operate it from the drivers seat using a wire and a ring pull , I also get quite a few jeeps that have had the temperature thermostats removed so the jeep dousnt have a hope in hell of geting upto a decent working temperature , just working on onme nopw with thermostat removed but the thermostat housing has siezed bolts so im goinmg to put an in line retro fit thermostat in the one piece top hose , I know ist not very original looking but a dead easy quick way of getting it back to runninmg at the right temp without the worry of possibly shearing one of the three bolts and all the problems that brings

[@davidaix5771]

I hope to one day own one of these old jeeps but I think I want a fj40 more

[@michaelnorris4629]

If the tires are not the same size, and you select four wheel drive and you drive on dry pavement you will bust something.

[@dfsafsadfsadf]

Could you please tell me about the magnetic compass on your dashboard? I like it!

[@Frogboxer]

Not trusting anyone who doesn't know the difference between a grease gun and a lube chart.

[@DidntSay]

Thanks for the Great Info! Great Presentation as Well!!

[@kettujabamiesukkeliukko]

I don't even own one but I still watch this. I would like to have one some day.

[@elstuff1]

Tell me you're a bad driver without saying you're a bad driver

[@rvannooij]

Oh, the irony of this video getting posted in a military vehicle enthusiast group by the one guy that I *know* does everything wrong that is pointed out in this video. 😄

[@GunMetalEngineer]

I’d say u should add zinc to the oil; less I’m wrong… old classics require zinc in the oil…

[@BOTmaster15]

I would add one advice to just about any classic vehicle. I got from NOS nazi to whatever works is good enough. I got into situation that I broke turnsignal/marker lamps on my 70' lemans. Problem is that those are gone, nobody is making reproduction and there are no spare or used parts on sale anywhere. Also living in europe doesnt help in junkyard hunting. So I did the last thing I could and design it myself with 3d printing. It doesnt look stock, but it is working and car is back on the road. Why do I write this here? Well there are finite amout of classic parts and it is better to still having fun in your car no matter what mods had to be done so it could be still on the road.

[@mikeholland1031]

They still make them. Try "year one" chevy stuff. Can build a car from the catologue

[@cashus68]

That shot of him in the jeep sent chills down my spine. OMG That was it then !!! i am having a shot of whisky right now !!!!!! 2:16

[@jasonconklin8172]

Linkage lube s great but use besides a show takes care of most of that 4 ur Linkage as far as diff and frequent oil changes that's extremely important along w ft end grease synthetic b a huge help as well !

[@rajseattle]

Thank you again for providing good information. I'm putting my jeep away for along winter's nap this weekend.

[@steamgent4592]

Just float the gears like a semi. Much easier and never force it she’ll slide right in if you have the rpms matched.

[@GunMetalEngineer]

How the heck u get a synchronized trans on a willys?? That would be nice

[@giuseppe4909]

Plenty of similarities to running my ‘57 MGA !

[@kolsen6330]

Best way to ruin an old Jeep is to try and run it at 70 on the freeway. Thats how I got my first jeep from an idiot.

[@ChrisHolman]

I'd love to get a WWII Jeep, I'm wondering what would need to be done to make it US street legal.

[@peterhulme9330]

You clearly know your subject, can you help those that do not know how to buy a genuine jeep

[@thomasheer825]

Had one, and worked on others, most people don't know that there are 37 grease points. Also, the older engines, if a Willys-built Jeep the crank, is not balanced and they don't take to fast engine speeds, this problem stayed till 1948 with Willys. Compounding the problem is that the Willys had 5.38 gears. Now the Ford Jeeps had a balanced crankshaft and 4.88 finals, so they can go at a faster road speed. My suggestion is to look for an "F" on the head bolts. Actually, the Ford engine has a better design, and the lube system is far superior. Get good at double clutching or get good at transmission rebuilds. The steering is, well it somewhat works if you are strong enough and don't mind road wondering.

[@6226superhurricane]

willys mb had a balanced rotating assembly and 4.88 gears. the ford gpw is practically identical as it is the willys design manufactured by ford. the two main differences in the engine is the ford one was painted grey and used head studs. 5.38 gears weren't used on ww2 jeeps they were used on post war Jeep cj's for more pulling power.

[@reusablematerials]

Im learning all the time, I had no idea that the ford engines had balanced cranks and the willys didnt ? I saw a balance weight on the crank of a 42 ford gpw I am restoring and thought it must be an engine from a generator as apparently they had a balanced crank?

[@paulsmith9341]

It's not just the engine that needs operating temperature. Transmission and all the other gear boxes need it too

[@LetsBuildaWillysJeep]

Another excellent video by the Willys Jeep expert 👌

[@Greendot319]

Well thanks!

[@geraldmiller5260]

Why are the serial numbers overpainted on the hood?

[@robertbartolome1203]

Turn your WW2 jeep to public utility jeepney to destroy it

[@JCunningham21]

goes with anything with a engine. dont start it unless you can drive it for 20min.

[@johnmosesbrowningsrightnut8642]

Still harder to break than a modern Jeep

[@sparkywilson1405]

And here I am wondering when I got a WW2 Jeep and where I must have left the darn thing

[@oldscoolcooldiecast1879]

This was my pappaws daily transportation back in the early 80s only his had a homemade hard top