How to Build Concrete Driveways In Sections by Yourself - Keeping Things Simple

www.homebuildin... Click on this link more information about driveway construction, home remodeling and building repairs. This video will provide you with a few ideas how you can build a concrete driveway in sections alone. I've done it before and I've built a variety of different concrete patios, sidewalks with this method and think it will work well for beginners.

[@gregvancom]

Here's a video that will provide you with a better idea about how much concrete you might need and how to make it easier by pouring it in smaller sections. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qofbXpJ7o9h8grs

[@MikhailFromUSA]

gregvancom how do make those splitting lines? You pour the first block but when you add the next one the line won’t be there, you have to make it somehow. This is the most difficult question for me

[@haroldblanton1555]

Can you do a garage floor the same way?

[@Entrepreneurusa]

@@MikhailFromUSA Pour one section add wire mesh strip and leave it sticking out , next day remove the wood bend the wire down to prepare for the next section break the edge with a hummer to create a better bond for the next section . Ones you do it clean it well than smooth it together with a trowel. I did a 12x12 that way in 4 sections no effort what so ever 2 hours every late afternoons To avoid heat , looks great and I saved hundreds

[@oceano_drive241]

I am a contractor. This will not work, because I cannot charge you tons of money and will be out of business, lol. Great video!

[@leehancock2782]

Its a lot of work. Plenty of business 😂

[@mssburr]

Naaa there are a lot of non physical people that dont want to DIY.. So your Job is safe....lol

[@gamingexpress2549]

Haha this was funny!

[@freedomranch6094]

Nailed it

[@beneficialmusikgroup8690]

😂😂😂

[@manncura]

Sorry if someone already asked this, but how long do you wait to do the next section? Are you waiting hours, a day, two days? And between the two section you just put the fresh concrete in direct contact with other slab? Thanks so much, love the graphic and animation.

[@gregvancom]

I can't provide you with an exact time, for example 24 hours or a week, but can suggest doing the next section anytime after you feel comfortable that the concrete slab is dry enough. Keep in mind that if you're pouring more than four sections, you could always pour the next section a few hours later if it wasn't located parallel to the one you recently poured. Let me know this doesn't make sense.

[@pcatful]

Did you do it? I appreciate all the details. I was hoping for more of a play by play real video. I think the danger is getting into and finding you can’t do it and then pay for someone to remove it. Also how many weeks are you not going to be able to use the driveway. Neighbor comments and wife impatience etc. City hassles…

[@gregorythompson2416]

How about a concrete driveway poured one yard at a time in sections over a multi-year period for a 8 foot by 60 foot driveway? It seems that there would be an obstacle connecting slabs together with rebar because the rebar extending beyond the poured section would be exposed to the environment until the next section gets poured six months later. Maybe leave each section at a stand-alone piece then roto hammer the old slab to receive epoxy and rebar. Maybe make the pour thicker where the slabs connect for strength and to easily accommodate the rebar.

[@gregvancom]

Good ideas.

[@teriorlando709]

Thank you!! I'm going to check out your other video on how much I need.

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and good luck on your project.

[@TheWarySamaritan]

Enjoyed this video. I've been pouring since 1979 and my biggest pour ever was an 1100 cubic yard monolithic pour; I had 20 finishers, we started out under lights and finished off under lights. Here in California I've been making segmented pours like this for years, but when I started doing it I was a 'little guy' and had to do this because I lacked the money to hire the crew. Thank you for making this video to help out people. You shouldn't have to go broke if you're a homeowner just wanting to pour a small slab or a driveway now and then. I respect it immensely that you're trying to help people.

[@gregvancom]

Thanks for the kind comment. I worked on a project that had about 20 trucks or around 200 yards one time, but 1100, that's nuts.

[@johncraig446]

Awesome thanks

[@michaelbeck402]

I work with a structural engineering firm. If you were to drill a few 1/2" rear dowels on each side to tie together the small slabs, they will be more resistant to moving and work as a unit.

[@ajjmunoz]

Youd be surprised how little videos there are on KZbin stating you can pour in sections. I've asked professionals and others online and everyone says you can't do it and gets an attitude. Thanks for your content.

[@speedwayman100]

sure you can do it but if you're doing a big slab its alot of work even if you are making small pours but you can save money

[@Lilmiket1000]

Because people who make money from it gets really angry at anyone trying to save money or learn skills for themselves most the time. They don't realize some people just like to learn and try things on their own and that some things are just simply out of some peoples budget. Like for me, I was quoted 1700 just to frame a 9ft long wall. no drywall or anything. just the frame. I priced the lumber myself and it only came out to 50 dollars. and it will only take an hr or less to do. Everyone I tried to ask for advice on the project refused to help because they want me to pay them lol. Silly they want me to pay their whole months rent and some for 1hr of work. and I just barely make 1700 a month.

[@tarnocdoino3857]

I got into property management 14 years ago on the administrative side. I switched gears and went into the field 8 years ago. As a result of my experience, I bought a home this year. On $1500, I’ve painted, put in a new floor, new toilet, sink, tub surround, new supply plumbing and just replaced my sewer lines. I’m watching this vid to do my patio for about $200.

[@cmennenger]

I've done over 100 foot of driveway like this no issues. Mostly because I didn't have the money to do it all at once.

[@cousinvinny63]

@@Lilmiket1000 I don't mind a contractor making a living, but it's getting to the point that only the upper middle class and rich people can afford them. So basically, contractors are pricing themselves out of business....

[@dumpsterfire6351]

Hey greg! With your guidance i poured almost 6 yards of driveway extension 1 yard at a time 👌 Im a first timer and it came out great! Thanks for the videos

[@gregvancom]

Now that's awesome and glad everything worked out and you're welcome.

[@treeamigo8447]

Exactly what I needed to hear. Ive got a 20 yard driveway project. Wish me luck.

[@dumpsterfire6351]

@@treeamigo8447 you got this np 😉

[@MechInvent]

This was a really great video. I don’t want to accept the fact I need to pay 6k for a 1k material pour. Sections are the answer !

[@gregvancom]

Glad you liked it and thanks for watching.

[@Hunterhunter-ir9nz]

I poured a 21x21 patio years ago doing this. 9 - 7x7 pads on 6” of compacted gravel. I used bagged cement so I did a 5” thick pour. One section a day with a small mixer. I Staggered the pours to let them dry. Worked well. I don’t have the confidence to handle a truckload of concrete all at on time. So I did it this way. The hardest part was wheelbarrowing 3 truckloads of gravel over 3 days time.

[@dubeckvids3110]

Hello, I have a question for you. I am looking at doing a small concrete driveway in sections. Someone mentioned to me you can get (A Gravel and portland cement) for your concrete mix. Or is it better to get a load of concrete sand and a load of gravel plus your portland cement to make up your concrete mix

[@Hunterhunter-ir9nz]

@@dubeckvids3110 20 years ago I poured a few sections of driveway with delivered rock. You can call the gravel yard and order "60-40 mix. And then you buy the 94# bags of portland cement and mix it. But I'd only do this is you have a LARGE mixer. My father-in-law had one. Think commercial size. Otherwise I'd get a Harbor Freight mixer and buy the bags. I made mine a little thicker, 5" when I did it, 5" of cement is 40% stronger than 4" if I remember correctly. If using the premixed bags I'd added a small amount of portland cement to each mix. 1 small shovel. I used 2 - 60# bags per mix into that mixer. For a driveway I'd put down a base of 6" of crushed cement "21AA" and I'd rent a tamper from Home Depot like I did and tamp every 2" of base. You don't want all of that work/time/money wasted! Last time I saw it a few years ago, it still looked good. No cracks! You can sell the mixer after. You will not mix up a driveway in a wheelbarrow, trust me.

[@pl9915]

Dump truck load of limestone is about 700 delivered

[@harrycorrea2547]

PROTECT THIS GUY AT ALL COSTS!

[@crspcritter]

Ive poured a bunch . By hand . 9’ by 16’ biggest. I was thinking 3’x 3’ sections for driveway. Many thanks . Where there’s a will ;there’s a way -😀

[@heroknaderi]

Wow incredible I’m pouring a slab for a 20x24 shop and will do it in sections 😎

[@thirteenfox7885]

Hey Kevin how did your pour go? I wish I could do this with my shop I'm putting up 40x50 it'd take me for ever to do it sections at a time

[@brooster87]

Great help. Thank you so much. I want to do a garage floor 40x30 so your image was great for 10’Sections. I have a mixer so this will make a huge difference. I wasn’t sure about the new pour and letting it dry and pouring it up against the old but this answered that very clearly.

[@gregvancom]

Glad it was helpful!

[@pattojumpship]

Great vid, animation and detailed explanation, I'm sure you've saved a lot of people a lot of money. Right on man. As a contractor myself, I'm amazed at the amount of contractors out there who insist on mass pouring over sectional pours. The cost in labour and multiple truck deliveries is way more on mass pours over sectional pours and if you use a fibre expansion filler in-between pads, if needed, then theres no need to cut expansion groves, saving more time and labour.

[@gregvancom]

It's hard to tell if I've saved them a lot of money or added more frustration to their life, but let's hope that I have. Good point about the control joints.

[@danmantyla3315]

I think I've learned more from this guy than anybody

[@laughterofelijah]

This is exactly what I was hoping to find! I've been trying to work out how to pour my own patio without tearing up our yard with heavy equipment. Thanks for the thorough walk-through and diagram.

[@gregvancom]

You are welcome and glad it helped.

[@Klinginsmithj]

Did you end up pouring your patio? How did the process turn out?

[@angelonicassio7131]

Wow, I have suspected that this could be done. However, there isn’t a single video on KZbin about this, until now! Thanks so much and for all of the tips:)

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and it was actually a video suggestion from one of my viewers.

[@angelonicassio7131]

gregvancom it may have been me as I asked you about this since I couldn’t think of any reason not to do it this way. Thanks for the tip about notching the form boards for rebar. You will have saved us thousands and I am excited about this project now...

[@gregvancom]

Yes, it might've been you and it looks like a video that others appreciate also. Thanks for providing me with another video that could help those who watch it well into the future.

[@StephenNu9]

Very good. Showing the rebar passing through the notches of the wood was a useful insight.

[@gregvancom]

Glad it was helpful.

[@wizardmaster6639]

it is good to do a "monolithic" pour - but it is overrated, especially when you have to put cut lines in it anyways - so save yourself money and time - do your own concrete in sections -

[@petmot3324]

Great idea to explain the process on diagram / computer ...straight forward.👍

[@regularguy9264]

The sections can actually be poured such that they have a gap between them. This gap can then be filled with pavers. This looks great and prevents having to damage the surface of the freshly poured concrete.

[@gregvancom]

Excellent idea and I've also done that before, using bricks. It looks great also.

[@eXiteVideoMagazine]

Neal Johnsoh for sure! They do this in Japan a lot. Usually a row of red brick in between two sections.

[@SoapAcademy]

Even a strip of grass would be beautiful.

[@funkmonster]

Soap Academy even a banana Bush or a strip of canned pineapples

[@PaulBishop-wo5ck]

Thanks you made that sound simple as i will give it a try as it will be the first time i would of laid a driveway Paul from Nottingham ENGLAND UK

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome.

[@hardcandy7112]

Greedy and Selfish People don't want you to learn in saving Money ,they want you to be dependent on Them .

[@gregvancom]

You bring up a good point and it applies to a lot of professions. I don't think my dentist has much of an interest in providing me with the best ways to take care of my teeth.

[@brucegregory6829]

Simple calculation for concrete volume in cubic yards: The only factor to remember is .003 So { L (in feet) x W in feet x Thk in inches x .003 = Total cubic yards } A project using 80# redimix bags uses a factor of .133 So { L x W x D in inches x .133 = Total 80# bags }

[@mikebennett938]

This is an amazing solution, thank you for posting this. Could you use a similar solutiuon for pouring vertical walls in sections? I'm thinking you could use an almost identical method but using vertical forms. I'm guessing it would be approximately the same as lifting pre cast panels in place. I have a farm and getting any serious concreting equipment to site is logistically impossible, short of a large helicopter!

[@sronnau99]

This is a great idea with having your wife help! I will just have my wife mix all 245 bags. We got this!j

[@gregvancom]

Exactly, and if she gets tired, you could always mix one or two bags while she's resting:)

[@rahrah8076]

If she can’t handle 245 bags then get a new buff woman that has big muscles and big muscle legs lol

[@Stuntdriver44]

Thank you so much for this video, this may be one of the greatest how-to videos on KZbin

[@gregvancom]

Glad you think so!

[@tylerjones6039]

Can this method be done for flat work. Like doing a floor inside my shop?

[@gregvancom]

Yes, but some flat work doesn't have control joints. If you don't mind having control joints, then absolutely.

[@SicanguLakota4rmSouthDakota]

Best video Ive seen yet. Ive never laid concrete before but yoi definetly boosted my confidence that i can do it myself with a couple helpers with good ol’ fashion elbow grease minus no heavy machinery

[@gregvancom]

Great to hear!

[@rafiqa1621]

diy in sections, certainly makes alot of sence. thank you.

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and I'm glad it helped.

[@d.kaiser2029]

Wow! I've been mulling this one over for about 24 hours now because I have a mixer, can't afford to pay for a truck (especially since I would have to pay extra for rural delivery), and I need some slabs. You just saved me thousands! Thank you!

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and glad I could help.

[@d.kaiser2029]

@@gregvancom I'm struggling with the design of my current project that I need to finish before I get shoulder surgery. The southwest wall of my house needs an awning or our AZ house will be cooking this summer. I can't attach the awning to the house unless I want to pull permits. It's going to be a steel awning built over an existing wood deck. Eventually I want the deck to be a part of the awning, but I can't afford (both time-wise and financially) to do it all in one shot, especially since the deck is going to be expanded. Do you have any ideas on how to build a steel awning over an existing deck and then connecting the two or should I just leave them separate? If you're too busy to deal with this ridiculous question, I understand. Haha.

[@equisequis.55]

I'm going to do it myself in 5' x 5' sections because its saving me money. A company quoted me $8,000 to pave my 30' x 60" drive way. Im sorry if you are offended and you not makine lots of money off of me, but I need a paved drive way and I cant afford to pay someone.

[@22pnc37]

Only 8k?? Damn that’s cheap I’m a contractor I would have quoted 15k for that we’re talking 22 yards there but to each their own you get what you pay for, go for it lmao we’ll see how bad it comes put

[@PJ_222]

What is the importance of rebarb? Don't Judge 🙈

[@gregvancom]

It provide additional strength and can make the driveway stronger.

[@bwnco]

rebar or wire mesh or anything extra yes makes concrete stronger. In an of itself concrete not really stronge shear strength wise. You can put fiberglass in it like they do stucco but anything to help bond it together more.

[@arcraider937]

If your going to try this method. Do yourself a favor and rent as big of a mixer as you can find . Not only will the pour go faster ,you'll also get better results. As the time saved mixing can be spent finishing .

[@gregvancom]

They have some big mixers out there so let's tone it down a little. Maybe rent a concrete mixer that you think will work for your job. If you're only mixing forty - 60 pound bags, then maybe a smaller mixer, but over 100, then maybe a larger one. I think what this person is suggesting brings up a good a point and thanks for sharing.

[@TexasBarnRats]

Steven Speilberg called....he wants his animation back! ;-)

[@gregvancom]

Yeah, I have a variety of movie studios that want me to come and work for them now, but I'm going to have to pass. Now if Spielberg calls that's totally different.

[@stoneyj1a1]

Do you seperate the slabs with mesh or something?

[@gregvancom]

You can separate slabs, but it will usually be better to connect them with mesh or rebar. Provide more details if this did not answer your question.

[@jacobhendrickson8935]

What about in my case I need to do a driveway up a steep hill that leads up to my home. I was thinking about doing 2 lanes I guess 3 ft wide each side to accommodate different widths of vehicles and wide enough to ride my motorcycle up one side or the other. I would be mixing from bags and would like to know what the smallest sections I could get away with would be?? Heck maybe 2.5 ft with per land would work. Either way I plan to add rebar that connects each pour with the prior pour. Would Ike to do it in small sections where I could mix up a section everytime I have the time to do so quickly. What’s the smallest sections you would recommend being ok?? And how thick would I need to be as well?? I would be working my way up a fairly long hill. Heck if I got a good Rhythm going maybe I could do my whole driveway which would be a couple hundred ft. Could I do 2.5x3ft sections at a time?? Or perhaps 2.5x4ft? If I was able to complete 4ft every week I could get it done in a summer. Still have to decide on my width for each lane but feel like 3ft each lane would be overkill so maybe 2.5’??

[@mdavis4930]

Its funny how people are saying you cant pour in sections, yet its done all the time on Interstate highways…when they actually get around to doing it😂

[@WilliamCaraballo-op9kp]

Hi could I theoretically just cut the rebar to fit in each section so I wouldn’t have to notch out any forms ? And about more then half of my drive is already concrete and half is grass but I’m getting ponding from my back alleyway bc I’m below the asphalt (which is owned by city) so I’m going to raise it another 4 inches and widen it another 4 feet . Should I use bonding product for parts over existing concrete ?

[@sandraanderson5114]

I have been watching a lot of videos on the topic of pouring a small foundation (I wanted to put up a shed) and your video is by far the most informative and concise video I've watched so far. Thank you.

[@gregvancom]

You are so welcome and thanks for letting me know!

[@dlee0710]

My current paverstone driveway heaves due to water getting in through the joints between the stones. Wouldn't the expansion joints go all the way to the base causing heaving to occur?

[@tacosforus1688]

What about a slab foundation with grade beams and rebar? Does pouring it in one go or in multiple make a difference in performance of foundation?

[@أبوحذيفةبنمحمد]

Thank you for your videos, I appreciate you taking your time to explain the whats and hows for DIYers like me. I have a few questions and perhaps you have already mentioned them but I have yet to find a clear answers on this anywhere online. Q1 - Should I or should I not use any expansion joints in between where my garage floor ends and this new driveway will begin from, like in between the two edges of concrete? Currently what I have is, on one edge is old concrete slab from my garage floor and the other edge is the asphalt, which is what I am planing to get rid of and have a driveway made up of concrete. Q2 - Do I need to have an expansion joint in between where the entryway sidewalk ends and where the side of the driveway begins? I plan on making both on separate days. Q3 - Do I need to have an expansion joint in between the side-edge of the entryway-sidewalk and the side wall of the house (concrete)? Q4 - Is it a good practice to have the expansion joints in between the sections of the driveway where the control joints are automatically being formed with this sectional approach or is it not? Because it seems, since the control joints will already be present, the expansion joints are no longer needed, like a redundancy. But then again, because these sections are being made with a time delay in between and I am also hearing from the folks at my local hardware store that I have to have an expansion joint in between two concrete slabs to help prevent damage to concrete due to expansion and contraction and that they are typically used in between concrete slabs and to separate slabs from structures. I am confuse to whether or not I should have to have the expansion joints, please help. Q5 - Lastly, how can I know the correct amount of clay/sand/gravel to lay under the driveway and under the sidewalk, like what condition of the soil sets the bar to use how much and which kind (clay/sand/gravel)? If there is any video that you may already have which mentions anything on this, please let me know. Thank you so much in advance.

[@aspensulphate]

How about doing some research instead of expecting someone to write you a book in a comment section?

[@Uncle_Buzz]

Hey Greg, very good stuff. Your audio is really low. Cheers! Chris.

[@gregvancom]

Thanks and I've checked with others about the audio and it seems like it's only low on some devices. Sounds like there's not much I'm going to be able to do about it.

[@bacsmed8320]

Pathways

[@shreddder999]

@@gregvancom using Android through Bluetooth into a home stereo amplifier and it's *still* low.

[@shreddder999]

@@bacsmed8320 Sounds like an alcohol recovery center 😂

[@chuckspeer2163]

How to measure strength of concrete and mix yourself ,iwill park a vehicle on it passenger car or a pickup truck 1/2 ton

[@quangtran3]

1. Do you need to separate each section with some sort of material to account for expansions and contractions of the concrete? I've seen pressure treated wood being used, but I just wanted to know if this is really necessary. 2. If you have rebars going through different sections and water or oxygen seeps in and contacts the rebars, in the long term, wouldn't the rebars rust away? Potentially your whole rebar system would be eaten away by rust. Thanks for the video.

[@gregvancom]

I would simply look around your neighborhood and see if they're using any expansion materials for their joints and if so repeat the process when building your driveway. I cannot provide you with a standard answer, because I think different building methods are used around the world. As far as the rebar rusting, you're right if it's exposed to air it can deteriorate over time.

[@paularrowood5485]

There are three better options to using bare steel rebar. 1rst is epoxy coated steel rebar. 2nd is fiberglass rod rebar. 3rd is basalt (volcanic rock fiber) rebar. Both fiberglass & basalt are much lighter than steel but equal or exceed the required strength as steel reinforcement. If anybody has interest in these alternatives , there is much info on the internet about all three. @@gregvancom

[@jeremybaumgart]

Greg, Why wouldn't the interconnected rebar between adjacent poured pads negate the effectiveness of the expansion joints? Before seeing this, I would have assumed that each pad would have it's own independent rebar reinforcement.

[@gregvancom]

I understand exactly what you're referring to and if you wanted to keep them separate, then go for it, but the rebar connecting the slabs together will also prevent it one section from raising or lowering due to soil erosion, settlement or tree roots. Let me know if that makes sense.

[@jeremybaumgart]

@@gregvancom I see what you mean Greg. I like your videos btw. On the subject of preventing slabs shifting around, in places where tree roots are not an issue, I know of one contractor where i live (where ground freezes over a foot deep at times) who dug down and poured 4 concrete piers below the grade where his adjacent pads are going to be poured, this way when the pads lift and shift around in a freeze, they will be able to drop back to plumb once the ground thawes out again. I really liked the sound of the idea and wondered how common this process is. I would guess they leave the top of the pier just slightly above the height of the top of the gravel bed that's going to be the base for the concrete pad, then they pour the concrete pad on top of that after the piers cure. I didnt see it done myself but it seemed like a decent idea. I was thinking they could just embedd a short stainless steel bar so that it sticks up a couple inches out of the top of the pier when its cured, that way the slab has something to ride on and keep it directly in line with its pier base. The process must also involve placing a membrane (like paper or something else dissolvable) over piers before the pad is poured over them so that they will not interonnect. It would be cool if you created an illustration of this process (if you approve of the idea).

[@gregvancom]

@@jeremybaumgart I don't know if any sense, but all footings need to be poured below the frost lines in the area, to prevent them from lifting. Let me know if this makes sense and I am going to put your suggestion on my list of videos to be made in the future.

[@houstonfirefox]

Very informative! Thank you! Loved the animations lol

[@dallasbeus2117]

I poured a small patio/pad for my shed, 9' x 12' over 10 yrs ago using 3' x 3' squares and it turned out great and is still going strong. I also did a small concrete patio in 3' x 3' squares and left the pressure treated lumber in place and it also worked out really well.

[@pauljfreeman]

Did you use rebar?

[@slaydesantis294]

I have concrete slabs that make up my driveway. I'm going to do it a slab at a time. This video gave me the motivation to do the project! Thanks!

[@gregvancom]

You can do it!

[@richkotas6491]

can you just put the rebar in each section and not cut through the forms?

[@streetgainer]

What about expansion joints?... shouldn't there be some space between the dry pads and the newly poured wet pads to accommodate the expanding of the pads against each other ?

[@gregvancom]

As far as expansion joints go, I would look around the area where you live and if everyone has expansion joints in the driveway, then I would put them in yours and if they don't, then they might not be needed.

[@jkiker7918]

Everyone now days is doing dry pours. I try to tell the just do a wet pour in sections. I built my garden sidewalks that way during the Covid working from home period. Work remote from home and then get on the work clothes and build a section of sidewalk (~ 4 feet long by 3.5 feet wide) at a time.

[@gregvancom]

Yes, I'm not a fan of dry pours and just saw a large concrete stairway done.

[@treasurekings5631]

Thank you so much. I am looking at slab for a 24 x 48 pole barn and if I do it myself in sections I can do for @ $5000. Contractors quote @ $10,000.

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and good luck with your project.

[@mauricioacosta7492]

have you mixed latex into any of your solution mixes?

[@jimfarmer1952]

I'm struggling to find info on my own scenario. Going to pour a 4" 12 x 20 floor in garage. Mixing by hand, so will be 4 sections 6 x 10. If I'm using wire mesh, do I have to extend the mesh through the forms into the adjacent sections? What's the best practice here?

[@gregvancom]

Yes, make sure each slab section has a section of wire mesh lapping at least 18 inches into the next section of possible.

[@cmennenger]

Great video. I've done pours like this myself.

[@gregvancom]

Definitely a good way to build things out a concrete and thanks for the kind words.

[@AniishAu]

great video, but I'm not clear how often (if at all) I need expansion joints between sections. I'm also not clear on what my options are for making those expansion joints.

[@gregvancom]

Contact your local building supply or lumber yard for those materials.

[@Freedom20244]

Do you have a Vedic on sidewalk where the garbage cans stay toward the backyard door? Nice jobs

[@gregvancom]

Here's a link to the "outdoor" section of our website that might be helpful.www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/outdoors/index.html

[@youcanfixit3721]

has anyone doe a driveway like this and does anyone have any links, so I can see it done?

[@domdraper3221]

Hey thanks for the video. I have to do a retaining wall. I have the specs from an engineer for the re-bar. I am curious. Could I pour the wall up to a certain height, and then pour the rest later? I would love to do the first half meter and then slowly extend up. Will the concrete layers stick together?

[@gregvancom]

Contact the engineer for more info. They will probably want it all poured at the same time.

[@djohnson3678]

that is exactly how we do it. plus we also use metal twine like wire to tighten up the cross overs [so the rebar does not move] . awesome video !!

[@gregvancom]

Thanks for sharing, watching and commenting.

[@billyjoe5538]

Hi I’m just curious if you could just rebar one section at a time as well instead of making notches in the forms I just got a quote for 18k for a 38x26w driveway with tearing out old 38x10 concrete just wanna make it a little bigger and it puddles up to 2 inches of water when it rains in the apron area to about 10 ft in

[@gregvancom]

Yes, you can install sections of rebar, just make sure rebar laps about 20 inches for #4 rebar.

[@flightmedic7169]

Thank you so much for your educational video. I want to pour cement for a basketball court for my kids and it was going to be so expensive that I’ve decided to do it myself.

[@gregvancom]

Go for and I would love to see some pictures after it's done or even during the process. You can get our email address at our website.

[@kevinhornbuckle]

I like the animation. Your notching suggestion works. As you say, pay attention to using straight lumber for form work. Laminating two 1x4s together before notching is well worth the extra effort. Apply diesel liberally. But don't get it on your re-bar.

[@gregvancom]

Excellent ideas and thanks for sharing. I like the one by four ideas and you could always use 1x4 or 1x6 that weren't straight, then snap a straight line near the edge and cut it to create a nice straight surface that can be used for a screed or the top of the form.

[@michaelosborne4050]

So you are not using anything in between the individual slabs ? Is just concrete edge to edge? I had assumed that you need to keep the divider form there for expansion. Is this true? Thanks

[@gregvancom]

I don't use expansion joints for driveways, but you can always check out some of your neighbors driveways to see what they used.

[@jeffherring6279]

Ive seen an expansion material on joints before, Ive never poured concrete before, I was wondering if you could pour in sections against an already existing concrete wall like the wall of a garage in a new home. Is that expansion material needed.

[@gregvancom]

Sometime it will be required by your local building codes, but you would need to check with them to find out.

[@melissatrapp5918]

When the concrete is done section by section like you demonstrated in this video; once the first concrete section is done, do you place a ‘form’ on the side of the already set concrete? Or does the concrete acting as the form? I'm just wondering as if you used a piece of timber as the form wouldn't it have a big gap between each section of concrete?

[@gregvancom]

The new concrete slab can be used as your form.

[@AlabamaTree]

Can I lay a 16 x 16 slab in 4 sections and lay each section 1 week apart?

[@gregvancom]

I don't see why you couldn't.

[@gluemanred]

After notching the formwork for the rebar, you can use spray foam to seal the bottom of the notch, cutting it flush with the face of the formwork once it cures. After pouring and removing the formwork, a quick clean with a wire wheel/brush and onto the next section

[@gregvancom]

I wouldn't worry about filling the holes, because the concrete when wet would usually get stuck and stop flowing through them. It doesn't need to be a clean edge and after the forms are removed, the next batch of concrete will simply flow around the deformed area.

[@yousifdelvalle4162]

could you make 4 separate rebar grids instead of one full one?

[@gregvancom]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYXCpXuvZ7-BrJY this should help.

[@griffin6912]

rub it easy make it hard

[@Ramn4life]

So I won’t need gravel/ rock for the bottom before pour ?????

[@gregvancom]

I would check with your local building department and contractors, because I've seen gravel used.

[@michaelwells7348]

I did it... I made a picture frame of exposed aggregate @ 12x30 around it than poured panels the size of a sheet of plywood individually inside it One by One.. came out Excellent & you could drive a Semi truck on it ~ I pity the fool who has to take it up. in 100 years ... I also put a ton on reinforcement in it...

[@TheLansang]

Can this sectional method be done on 6 inch thick slab foundation for a detached garage project?

[@gregvancom]

I would like to say yes, but I don't think a structural engineer would approve. Most building foundations work better when they're done with one pour and not in sections. However, I'm not suggesting that you can't do this on some projects.

[@colink769]

Very educational thank you

[@AlabamaTree]

Hi, thanks for taking the time to make this video. I’m looking at laying a concrete base for a garden building. It is going to be 16’ x 16’ x 6” . I want to use my cement mixer to mix the concrete but I think it will be too big to do in one slab. How many sections would you recommend for an area this size?

[@gregvancom]

This is a difficult question for me to answer, because I don't know what you're capable of doing in one day, but I can suggest starting with a smaller section, maybe 8' x 4' or 16' x 4'.

[@AlabamaTree]

@@gregvancom thanks for the replies. I see now why it’s a difficult question to answer. I’m not scared of a bit of hard work but I guess the limitations are the time before the concrete starts to set beyond being useable. Do you know how long I would get per section?

[@desperado77760]

what if you were using a concrete truck but it's your first time ever?

[@gregvancom]

If you don't know anything about finishing concrete, then it wouldn't be a bad idea to hire someone to help, but if you think you have enough information and are willing to give it a shot anyway, then it wouldn't be a bad idea to have at least two or three more people there who can help you place the concrete where it needs to go and level it off.

[@donaldlivingston1907]

Can I use 2x2 lumber material so I don't have to notch up my 2x4

[@gregvancom]

Absolutely, but sometimes 2x2s are difficult to keep straight or find straight ones at the lumber yard.

[@mongom.5572]

Looks good on computer but I need to see an actual real life video

[@gregvancom]

Yes, that would be nice.

[@michaelmilner1863]

Can u do rebar in each section alone or does the rebar need to join the sections. Doing big slab in small sections but don't want rebar laying out till who knows when I could get to next section. Thanks in advance..

[@mccollapiaries]

I'm looking to do a garage slab myself and figure it makes sense to do in sections. Do these same principles apply for a garage slab or what would you change? Thanks so much for the video\ edit/ im looking to do a 24x32 garage or so and was thinking 8x8 sections at a time.

[@AndyDeore]

I am doing my driveway 90x20 ft

[@gregvancom]

You can do it, one section at a time.

[@peejwilco1357]

If you notch the form boards, how do you stop concrete coming out under the rebar, through that notch? Or is it OK if it does leak out as you're going to pour more concrete there eventually?

[@gregvancom]

Yes, it can leak through like you said.

[@peejwilco1357]

@@gregvancom We paid big $ for a new driveway here at home. Sadly the concreter put no effort in, massive cracks everywhere... really sucks. I'm going to DIY for a path and any other project we have going forward. Small outlay for equipment I think, and then just learn as I go :O :)

[@melainelee]

i will be doing a wet pour diy for a 16x12 pad ... in between slabs.. doing it this way .. will the joints be ok or will they shift???

[@lildeanc]

How long do you wait between each slab and letting it harden?

[@gregvancom]

I like to wait 48 hours.

[@dustinm9862]

Any issues leaving forms on for extended period? For example if I wanted to do this method but prob take a month to do it. Any issues leaving outside form on that long?

[@bowlancer]

Sir,, can i make 3 " thick driveway,,thanks

[@gregvancom]

I've seen it done, but it's not recommended.

[@hippo-potamus]

Could you rebar each section independently?

[@gregvancom]

Yes, but it won't provide the same structural support.

[@jerepair5022]

How many bags cement can be use in one section and what size it is? Can u help me with that. Thanks

[@gregvancom]

I think I have that information on our website, but if you can't find it let me know.

[@smashdaworld5916]

Did I miss if this is asking to let each section cure before the next section?

[@gregvancom]

Yes, each section should be cured before pouring the one next to it.

[@zhugeliang777]

what about a house slab with footings? also would I have to come back with a saw to cut joints between them? Or is the trowel enough to mark joints before the concrete dries?

[@garthewbank2679]

Will look like shit, show some after pictures. 99.9% sure

[@gregvancom]

Let me see if I get this right, you're asking others for pictures after suggesting that it will look like crap, so I'm asking, do you have any evidence to support your claim, but that wouldn't be the case, would it, otherwise you would've phrased the question differently.

[@Piccolo8291]

I plan on doing this for a foundation for a metal building. It is going to be a 40x80. Quite big but I would like to do it in sections also.

[@bwnco]

Good video.. you can even use just busted up cinder blocks to hold re bar up. Where im at its to code an everthing..

[@donnyluv4235]

Very informative video. I've laid pads for monument signs so I know what will work, but this just confirmed and showed me some good tips. Thanks much.

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and I'm glad it helped.

[@libertyoutdooradventures208]

You should have an expansion material or bond breaker between your cold joint sections but nice video.