Growtac Equal // Ridiculously Strong Mechanical Disc Brakes

[@chazwarpdrive5171]

I've got Growtacs on my touring bike and my fat bike, and I love them. I ditched my Yokozuna hydro-mechanicals for them. They're strong and easy to set up and adjust, but like you said, you do need to read the directions. I also lost the little plug for the pad adjuster hole on one brake, but fortunately it's tapped for an M4 bolt! I replaced the plugs with bolts on all 4 calipers. It does mean you need another tool to get at the pad adjusters, but so far that hasn't caused any problems.

[@tonyresta1170]

I have also done this on mine but with an M4 Grub screw!

[@TheBikeSauce]

Oh nice, didn’t realize.

[@justinarthur3773]

Interesting. I thought I was the only one underwhelmed by Yokozuna/Juin tech brakes. I have both 2 piston and 4 piston on different bikes and, for the money, I am disappointed with both. So you like the growtacs more? I might need to make a change.

[@andrewhamilton3486]

I'm also running juin on my road logic and well not great. Was planning to change pads to galfer or get these growtac..... I've got klampers on my outback ❤, but aesthetically a bit bulky for the road logic in my opinion 😊

[@justinarthur3773]

⁠@@andrewhamilton3486Ritchey fan. Me too. I’ve got the 4 piston GT’s on my ascent. They only just fit due to the adjustment wheel on the back. This video has convinced me to swap them out for the growtac’s.

[@hellojobenp]

The hole that the rubber plugs fill are threaded. Forgot the bolt size, could be an M2 or M3

[@dylangrantz8124]

Entirely too expensive really. You can get entire ltwoo hydro groups for that price. I personally would never spend that coin when you could do something else really.

[@danielkamberelis8265]

Hey Nolan, at the end of this video you mention "cable stretch". I've always wondered about what is actually happening when people refer to "cable stretch". I'm no engineer, just a humble bike mechanic, but from my basic understanding of steel it seems unlikely that a steel cable could "stretch" enough to account for the amount of slack that's created right after installing new cables and housing or the slackening over time. I've always assumed that the slackening over time was caused by other parts in the system like the housing compressing or the ferrules being pressed on all the way under the force of braking. I was hoping as an engineer you could shed some light on what was actually going on when folks talk about "cable stretch". Many thanks, love the channel, keep up the good work!

[@TheBikeSauce]

Good question. I often change brake and shift cables on bikes with well established housing / ferrules and the cables definitely stretch out. For years, I’ve always pre-stretched take and shift cables, which almost eliminates the stretch, but not all. Since the housing / ferrules are existing, it seems to isolate the inner cable itself as the culprit

[@Frostbiker]

I'm just an ignorant speculating on the Internet. Is it possible that the stretching occurs because cables are braided rather than a solid wire? It is not hard to imagine that there may be a little bit of space between the threads that form the cable. As the cable undergoes tension the space between the threads may shrink and thus the cable would elongate. Just idle speculation on my part.

[@TheBikeSauce]

Not ignorant at all. I’d bet money you’re spot on

[@asherbeal8357]

Yup, correct. Cables don’t stretch... ferrules seat and housing compresses. I am a 30+ bike mechanic btw 🤘🤓🤘

[@TheBikeSauce]

But how do you explain having to pre stretch a replacement inner cable in an existing housing setup?

[@renegadeflyer2]

The tensile strength of duralumin is higher than aluminum, although its resistance to corrosion is poor. I wouldn't want to use it in the winter.

[@BengalDiscBrakesMich]

Valid point for those cycling in the northern hemisphere.

[@TheBikeSauce]

Right, bc of the copper. I haven’t heard any stories of any growtacs corroding though. The percentage of copper in the alloy may be sufficiently small

[@BengalDiscBrakesMich]

@@TheBikeSauce yep ---> general recipe for Duralumin is 4%

[@robertwyland7770]

For cable actuated disc brakes, I love my Juin Tech Gt-F . Of course they hydraulic at the calipers.

[@bonbonflippers4298]

Been using the juin tech f1 for 2 seasons on my winter bike now. Have no complaints and would buy again if they failed. They have been very easy to setup and forget.

[@MichaelRobibaro]

I got the 2 listoni version, front is good, the rear J's definitely weak. I've been thinking about upgrading to their new 6 piston version...or atleast their 4 piston version

[@solobellimino2356]

I believe quality mechanicals are so underrated. Nice to see quality stuff are still out there.

[@fastbladeproductions7961]

I have TRP Spyre disc brakes 160mm .... came with organic brake pads and they were terrible... almost went Hyd brakes because of those pads....when I changed to "Cycle1st" semi metallic brake pads it was a night and day difference.... stops on a dime with 9 cents left over... more than happy with them now and bonus with the weight savings...

[@solobellimino2356]

@@fastbladeproductions7961 I have the spyke, it took some pad and rotor experiments to get them right. The trp pads were sweet in the wet, but terrible when dry. Just weird.

[@GFCMilitia2]

I would like to see you review the TRP Spyke dual piston and TRP Spyre dual piston. They're a lot cheaper. I have them both on my MTB and Gravel bikes. No issues.

[@alexsch9956]

Yes or compared to the TRP Hy/RD which I also like and are good brakes in my opinion

[@bebopman5]

Both of yall read my mind because I see the Spyres and Hy/Rds as their main competition, aside from the Klampers.

[@christophericcio]

+1 on a review of the TRP Spyke. I have some and I'd like to see how these compare with other fancy brakes. I could say that they require more force than Shimano Hydrolic brakes. I switched to 180mm on the front and now it feels better and lighter. I live in the Alps ! Also, I find it so weird that many cycling KZbinrs say that Mechanical Disk Brake is garbage.

[@alexsch9956]

​@@christophericcio I rode 700 km through the alps with the Trp Hy/rd's no problems whatsover, you do need a little more power in your hands tho compared to fully hydraulic. I was running them, like in the video, with compressionless housing cables. Would buy the Hyrds again anytime but the Equals also look really nice

[@Luchopapa16]

I have had both the Spyres and the Growtacs for many miles on the same bike with same housing. The Growtacs are soooo much better. Price is a consideration, but good brakes are one place I don't mind spending a bit extra for improved safety

[@hardmtnbiker]

They definitely look premium and go perfectly with your super dialed in Ritchey Outback. Another amazing review. I don’t have any experience with mechanical disk brakes but they have come a long way from the Avid mechanical brakes from years ago. Hydro brake calipers with cable lines seem to be the happy medium.

[@GbpsGbps-vn3jy]

Mmmm nope, last year some guys in the neighborhood tested in our city a couple of cable actuated 2-piston hydros and most of them overheated with worse braking distance. For 1/2 price of those growtac you can buy shimano MT500s with rotors - yep, 4-piston, and they actually stop you fast in rainy day anywhere in the city or in the mountain

[@the_nondrive_side]

i've never noticed any difference between mech discs. barely notice hydro being better even. I spend lots of time setting up my brakes.. even my Cantilever 96 Rocky Mountain Cardiac will drop anchor and stop you. only question I have is how much cable pull? 15mm? 11mm? not that I'd ever buy these.

[@zoladkow]

Precisely! Are those road short pull or mtb long pull ones?! That's an uber critical detail because miss matching levers and brakes can make all the difference...😁 By the looks of it, and the target audience - i'd risk a guess that it's short pull 🙃

[@SimonHBS]

They are short pull. Just checked Growtac's site 😊

[@the_nondrive_side]

then they are garbage@@SimonHBS

[@SimonHBS]

@@the_nondrive_side Why? Physics wise, cable pull is just a translation of motion. It's the length of the brake lever that matters. All this, of course, is provided that the cable is not worn and elastic. All long pull brakes do is give more freedom in setting up the pad clearance and, especially for V-brakes, gives tyre-, fender-, and mud clearance. If you want to use mechanical disc brakes with road levers, you need short pull anyway. And I guess that's the deciding factor?

[@the_nondrive_side]

@@SimonHBS because I don't ride drop bars.. all short pull discs are by this junk. The concept of road and mtb specific stuff is dumb. But like $20 gets you a caliper that works... what's this nonsense cost

[@robertmcfadyen9156]

Juin Tech mechanicals with Kevlar fiber EBC pads are the strongest combination I have experienced in the cable actuated category . You must use compressionless woven style sheathing like that used for BMX detangler systems .

[@slantedorbit]

Getting the BB7s on my city/touring bike to work properly is a full-time job, so I often think it’s only a matter of time before I spring for these. But then I adjust the BB7s well enough to continue deferring, especially since I already have a gravel bike with 105 hydros for when I want more performance-oriented actuation. Maybe the next time I build a steel frame up from scratch I’ll go with these. Thanks for the useful review!

[@robertstan2349]

you're doing something wrong. i've made four minor adjustments in a year to mine and they're on one of my mountain bikes

[@Nick-lm9hg]

Are you missing Russ from Path Less Pedaled?

[@recacar]

Switched from XT hydros to these after a caliper developed a leak at the piston and have not looked back at all. They are a breeze to set up, and no bleeding or hunting for leaks when something goes wrong. I don't feel like I am giving up much at all and the ease of maintenance and reduced noise are welcome changes. Makes internally routed stuff so much easier as well. They are MUCH better than most previous cable discs that I have tried (spyres, BB7) and lighter/slimmer but just as good as the Klampers. Was thinking of going back to rim brakes on all my bikes but these have changed my mind.

[@TheBikeSauce]

So are you confirming you’ve used these on an mtb? What style of riding?

[@lauig]

I love your content, there's a bit of no nonsense approach to things and in the same time a good level of thoroughness in your analysis and comparisons and you always go for componentry that many of us, all over the world, would be much more susceptible to use than what you'd see on those GCN wannabee channels. So thank you for having our back ! Had never heard of those but now I'm intrigued, very intrigued. That price point ain't to steep for such an important safety feature.

[@TheBikeSauce]

🙏🙏🙏

[@thebrowns5337]

we have Paul components to thank for these, and competition is great for consumers. exciting

[@screwb1882]

What is the use case for this? It seems to me at this price might as well move to hydraulic.

[@gur262]

Not liking the look of hydraulic levers. Or a luxury travel bike maybe. I bought a MTB with hydraulics n good service history. Still suddenly had oil and no brake on my rear. Someone' might prefer the maintenance of a mechanical when on the go. Rim is fine too I think but then you got frame limitations, don't want to ruin carbon rims and may want to fit wider tyres or need better performance in the wet.

[@mitchellmtb7202]

Wow outer space aluminum. My mind is fucking blown. Where can we get this rare earth material?

[@simonm1447]

Even the ISS uses 6061 for some components (the pressure hull is made from something different), the same material which is used for 90 % of the aluminium frames today. If somebody states "military grade aluminium" or "space grade aluminium" you know he just wants to justify an overpriced premium price tag. The choice of aluminium sorts is typically not made because of costs, but depending on if you have to weld it (a lot of sorts cannot be welded) or if it's just something milled out of a block of metal

[@BruceChastain]

I'm rather intrigued by cable disks. Seems like if you can get really good ones like this, it's the best of both, light weight, lots of power and simplicity.

[@charleshulsey3103]

$400? I'm about to put brakes on my Honda Civic for half that. What is going on???

[@TheBikeSauce]

😆 yea these are a premium product. The analog is putting some 6 piston Brembos on your civic. Would be slightly more than $400

[@alannkevin]

I don’t understand why these are so expensive when with the same money you can get a good set of hydraulic brakes and calipers with hoses.

[@ShredST]

Economy of scale

[@alannkevin]

@@ShredST please explain

[@drill_fiend1097]

Low end bikes use the cheapest mechanical brakes out there. High end bikes skip mechanical brakes entirely to hydraulics. So naturally there's not much demand for high end mech brakes, so manufacturers don't produce as much. It's a niche product for those who really prefer mech brakes or have time to swap out their stock calipers. So it's not cheap. Honestly, this might be still worth it for those who want to adjust and maintain brakes during long tours without access to mineral oil and tools.

[@antoinedoinell]

Nice review! love that these exist. Don't get me wrong the Klampers (ive only ridden post mount) look and perform great but you really can't beat that price point. I want these on my next bike.

[@philhunt1442]

oh dang they're kind of pricey haha

[@leobesa2887]

Too expensive. Go hydraulics instead lols

[@ДмитрийМедведев-н3м]

You buy them once forever pretty much. Best option if you swap handlebars to drop bars you dont have to bleed it

[@velo_orange]

Terrific review Nolan! Glad you're enjoying the brakes. Sick bike, too btw!

[@TheBikeSauce]

Surprisingly little KZbin coverage on them so I figured I’d add my $0.02 😀

[@davidide1525]

Really helpful video! I just received my Growtac brakes, and will be installing them on an All City Cosmic Stallion grx. I am having trouble deciding just where to have the flexy housing meet the stiff housing F&R . I have Campy Chorus 12 speed levers. Could you advise. Thanks, love your channel, Dave

[@matthewshultz8762]

I'm glad there's another high end mech brake available than the hilariously overpriced Klampers. However, even these are 3x the cost of the tried and true BB7s. Is the performance really 3x better? I use the BB7s on my e-bike and they have been perfect for what I am looking for. Yes there could be improvement to the brake feel, especially the rear, but I just don't buy that these could have the same or better lever feel (bitepoint and power) as a reputable hydraulic brake. These Growtacs are marginally more expensive than a set of Shimano SLX hydraulics which are what I consider 'reputable'. It's hard to compare brakes on drop bars with the whole brifter thing so I am talking flat bar for ease of comparison.

[@meinAliasfuer2024]

oil cant freeze. ;) Never looking back to any cable brake. Shimano brakes need almost no service at all, even when you are riding 10000mls a year. You only have to change pads...

[@Robinators]

400 for mechanical calipers.. just no... When you can get full groupset for less...

[@JMcGwyer]

Single sided pullikg calipers are not meant to be set up with the rotor centered. The rotor should be set as close to the fixed pad as possible to avoid any rotor flex. This is because you can feel the flex and it doesnt result in a firm feeling lever

[@_dmart]

Caliper should be adjusted as close as possible to the moving pad and the fixed pad should be adjusted as close as possible to the rotor where it doesn’t have to travel far to contact the fixed pad.

[@JMcGwyer]

@_dmart what will flex the rotor. The idea is to keep rotor from moving

[@MrBirdshell666]

why would you need this.... thing, when you can buy a complete hydraulic set for the same money? some people sure do love making things complicated

[@waynechan462]

I've had a problem with my rear caliper freezing och locking up during cold weather. It could be condensation in the brake housing, since it does angle downward from the caliper. Has anyone else experienced this problem? For reference, I live in southern Sweden where it's cold but not super cold, say -5/-10C.

[@einundsiebenziger5488]

Why buy expensive, over-engineered mechanical disc brakes when you can buy much cheaper, way better performing hydraulic dis brakes?

[@davidide1525]

Great video. Do you know how they would work with Campy 12 speed levers ?

[@dexterx55]

I mean you can get a pair of hybrid-mechanic juintech f1's for half that price and they have insane good braking performance, are super easy to set up and i haven't had any issues over the 6500km i had them on my bike. Would highly recommend those.

[@JoeDobias]

TRP SPYRE SLC 145g and dual piston. For as low as €82. I demand. Head 2 head. Cos these were used for cyclo-cross racing for ages, I cannot see how these have better braking performance.

[@stephenconnolly1830]

So much more expensive than Avid BB7's without a significant difference in braking power.

[@squareyesj7170]

Why on earth would you spend that much on these mechanical brakes?, and comparing the pricing to the WAY OTT price of Paul Clampers does little to convince me. You can get top hydraulic sets with levers for that, you can get a complete group set for not much more. Niche and overpriced, for the 'more-money-than-sense' cyclists out there.

[@weareallbeingwatched4602]

This might be the best mechanical brake ever made.

[@hendrixinfinity3992]

The obvious problem with these is that even basic hydro disc brakes will slap them. Only difficulty is finding levers for drop bars. Hydro discs fail over time, not suddenly. Reports of snagged hoses are oversold and the likelihood of both of your brakes failing at the same time is negligible. I spent one week with a bike that had "decent" mechanicals (bb7s?) and while they were perfectly strong, they had a horrible lever action and i probably spent more time at the side of the road adjusting them than i did actually riding. People stuck on mechanical discs are curmudgeons at this point. Quality rim brake or hydros, no in between.

[@ziggypi4813]

what is the nature of the mechanical leverage that makes these better. for whatever reason my understanding of at least mechanical brakes, leverage is purely relative the length of lever.

[@PRH123]

Would be interesting to see how the internals of the mechanicals of the brakes work. Is it a rotating screw, a cam, or how does it work. Seems that it must be a pretty simple mechanism, which leads to the thought, why then would one type of mechanical caliper be better than another?

[@paradox963]

So just curious, outside of bike backing out into nowhere where repairability with minimal tools could be a benefit, why would you want to run mechanical disk brakes? It would seem to be a very limiting system, especially on drop bars where fewer and fewer brifter are available in mechanical brakes.

[@georgeforeman89]

I certainly see the use of these on gravel/road-style bikes or handlebars. Hydraulic brakes are tied to the latest and greatest groupsets with those bikes. But I really don’t see the point of expensive ass mech brakes on a mountain bike. You can get cheaper hydros on an mtb setup.

[@BisnesPyry]

I still fail to see the point of mechanical disc brakes vs hydraulic.

[@kyqx]

I've never had to bleed a cable system.

[@nicodanger13]

for long travel in adventure,

[@ianbooth4255]

On a heavily loaded tandem the heat generated by the brakes risk overheating the hydraulic fluid leaving you without brakes. Not something I want to experience going down a steep hill.

[@TL243]

This is so much better that hydraulics. You will always get home with mechanical disc calipers

[@timothyhendricks3004]

Why would someone use this over hydraulic brakes?

[@trevekneebone369]

Are these compatible with the cable pull of Campagnolo ergo levers? I've got a nice Athena 11 speed groupset that I'd like to migrate to a frameset designed for disc brakes.

[@SimonHBS]

The brakes are short pull (ca 7mm), so they should be compatible with any road brake lever :)

[@trevekneebone369]

@@SimonHBS Thank you. Good to know!

[@neilchapman5145]

Way too expensive for mechanical brakes

[@pancake8fly]

How does this compare to the TRP hy/ra

[@davestambaugh7282]

All using your rear brake does is wear your rear tire out faster!!

[@ronwhite8503]

Ridiculously strong.......... ridiculously priced.

[@simple_simon]

face your brake mounts and i bet they will feel even better

[@CharlieMetcalf]

Love the review and the in-depth details. Now if I had a bike with disk brakes............. :-)

[@danielcluley870]

How do they compare to the Ole' Trusty BB7?

[@danielcluley870]

How do they compare to the Ole' Trusty BB7?

[@brylledeuda544]

can I used that brake on mountain bike?

[@Canadian666]

Trp with semi pad, thanks

[@herbertharris6406]

Given the non-indexed pad adjusters have you experienced the pads slipping ? (Which was very annoying with TRP Spykes) Thanks

[@TheBikeSauce]

They don’t slip at all likely due to the shallow thread pitch. However, like all mechanical discs, you do have to keep tabs of adjustment in general as pads wear down

[@jamesbaclig8789]

Great review!

[@citymonkey5929]

The set screw critique is a problem of the tool not the brake I would say. Get yourself some PB Swiss Tools allen keys. They also come color coded, but with powder coating. The sleeve type ones from wera are the worst invention. It is not uncommon in any industrial application to have set screw deep in a hole. And any standard allen key, other than wera, will do the job fine to turn these screws^^

[@TheBikeSauce]

I was sold on the weras, but I’m not so sure now. I’ve had pw Swiss ones in my cart for weeks now. Probably time to pull the trigger 😆

[@malcontent_1]

Thanks for describing your experience with these calipers. Now I want them even more. I wonder if they work well w/ the Sword brifters.

[@TheBikeSauce]

They should work with them. Baller setup!

[@FlourescentPotato]

as aero as a brick though...

[@randomdrifter]

Personally looking forward to upgrading the Avid BB7s to one of these on the right bike Very much looking forward to building a touring setup with them

[@oreocarlton3343]

Compared to TRP Spyer?

[@props651]

No comparison in my opinion. I went from Spyres directly to Equals. The Growtacs are noticeably better brakes in Stopping power and modulation.

[@oreocarlton3343]

@@props651 I assume its like that, its a different price tier but for the price Spyers seems excellent

[@Luchopapa16]

Ditto what he said. No comparison - night and day.@@props651

[@Luchopapa16]

@@props651I had the same experience going from Spyres to the Growtacs and share the same opinion - there’s no comparison

[@galenkehler]

I haven't used these, but a few varieties of single sided brakes. That's a no go for me, now that I've got the TRP Spyre (double sided mechanical) I'm honestly surprised that you're willing to accept the feel of the twisting rotor and the grinding noise under hard braking. Side benefit, the Spyre are beautiful and slender and aero with a nice central cable run whereas the growtac are chunky and large.

[@galenkehler]

Another really nice feature is that the double sided brakes can be adjusted for pad wear on the fly with a simple barrel adjuster, so you can do it without stopping. This can be the difference between losing the group you're riding with and staying on.

[@surronzak8154]

Would this be usable on a Downhill mountain bike ? And as rear brake on a moded surron ?

[@kingflynxi9420]

HAHAHAHA NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

[@orsations]

I used Paul Klampers and then Growtac Equal on the same bike. Much prefer the Growtac Equal. It's lighter and feels like the top end power is higher, with no downsides I can tell. I did not lose any of the plugs.

[@NoBrakes23]

I wonder if I can run these through a gyro for the dirt jumper? 🤔 They certainly seem cooler than the Spyke/Spyre I'm considering using. Oh wait, single sided pull is straight ass. You either have a ton of pull/gap or they rub, or both. I've never seen a mechanic that can set them up worth a damn. And having warped rotors after a few months is also a drag. Guess I'm sticking with the TRPs on the play bike, (And hydros for mtb/gravel/road.) 😒 Appreciate the review. Seeing you endo almost makes me want to believe in mechanicals again. (But I'm always disappointed by them.)

[@qwertyazerty2137]

I don't get it - why there aren't any fm calipers with dual actuation? At least I haven't found any. For pm, there are plenty to choose from, i.e. a good budget zoom db680

[@christopherharmon9336]

Great review! I just purchased an aluminum Topstone with SORA, because I like the simplicity of cable actuated brakes. Growtacs are a serious consideration. High-quality mechanical brakes are grossly underrated, IMO, and so is compressionless housing. Want to "wake up" mechanical brakes? Try compressionless housing. The levers, housing, cables and calipers are a system. The housing is the weak link.

[@xF22Raptorx]

Hi! thx for that video. can you desribe in a short way how strong the braking power compared to the trp spyre is? With the braking power of the trp spyre I was not very happy... :-(

[@TheBikeSauce]

Sooooo much stronger than spyre

[@xF22Raptorx]

@@TheBikeSaucethank you!

[@skinnie88]

Thanks for sharing. My self I have an Outback breakaway and looking for a nice brake. I had the spyre slc which didn’t convince me a lot. A friend of mine suggested to try shimano rs305. Have you tried them? After buying these growtrac are staying with it or returning to hydraulic? I am torn between growtrac (if the rs305 don’t work well) and hydraulics and buy hydraulic housing splitter . Enjoy your ride

[@richardmiddleton7770]

All they have to do is use a cam style pivot, like modern Shimano hydraulic brakes, the first part of the levee pull gives greater pad movement which means less brake rub as the pads can be further away from the rotor, then as the pads make contact you have the 'slower' part of the cam which gives much greater leverage/force and better modulation.

[@SimonHBS]

How well can you feel when the wheels are about to lock up vs. hydraulic, mixed like TRP HY/RD, and other mechanical disc brakes? The lack of “feedback” is still the main thing keeping me from mechanical disc brakes. I feel that even normal V-brakes give better feedback compared to (most) mechanical disc brakes.

[@Jdigger4130]

wow... sure would be curious what one actually requires to stop a bike. its like RC car stuff, pricey hop ups... I guess as an old bmx rider I dont use "element" and "nuance" when tuning my old heap. sweet ride. Brake dyno huh... I squeeze the lever(s) fer my research data! I thoroughly enjoyed this review man! I gotta get into this scene. I subbed and thumbed! Cheers from Santa Cruz

[@davidward4329]

Be using BB 7 with organic pad and a go cart rotor . Before I got happy. . People overlook the quality of the steel of the rotor . I am 115 kg and ride fast .

[@nickporter3531]

I use Paul Klampers on two of my bikes. They work better than any of the other’s (Avid BB7 and TRP spyres) that I have tried. However, I recently changed from using 11 speed Ultegra levers to Dia Compe non-aero brake levers and was surprised how much better they have become. Would love to try the growtacs, but can’t justify as have two sets of Klampers!

[@klips2178]

But not sure if mentioned, great thing about Paul's is that you can minimize that "bend" to the rotor if you probably set up the non actuated side pad correctly to almost zero bending as it can be adjusted to act as a wall; rather than leaving a large gap there leaving room for bending 👍

[@briandewey5401]

Nice video. I have a Ritchey outback also. I have the juin tech gt cable hydro 4 piston on the Ritchey and have been very happy with them. This is my 2nd set 1st were on a Raliegh Tamland gravel bike. They worked flawlessly on both bikes. Would be interesting to see you revue them. I set both bikes up with yokozuna cables. The juentechs are sold by a few other brands with their brand on them, including Yokozuna. Juentech has 3 cable hydro brakes now 2, 4 and a 6 piston. I,ve had the 4 piston version version for about 3 years. Weights for them 4 g heavier than the grotacks.

[@marcelmontagnelascaris-com2840]

Thanks for the super clear review! Can the flat-mount version also be used with MTB (long-pull) levers because the brake-leverage can be adjusted?

[@matyi94]

Great review, thanks! It would be great to hear more about your academic work! btw: consider getting a pair of plastic screws to replace the flimsy pad adjustment cover with ;)

[@stevec505]

Do you find a big difference in pad wear rates on the moving vs non-moving sides? It’s probably more of an academic question than practical. But, if there was a big difference I guess a little extra economy could be had by cycling through new pads one at time.

[@paulschmidtke425]

Thanks , hadn't heard of these brakes before , I have my touring bike set up with mechanical brakes ( who needs hydraulic problems in the middle of nowhere) so all I do is carry a spare inner cable , weights nothing takes up no room , I went with the scram bb7 I am extremely happy with the power and modulation , actually just as powerful as my hydraulic MTB set up or nearly so could not imagine needing more and at a substantial amount less price wise than the clampers and grotacs , but I do like their look so I will give them a go as soon as the misses isn't looking

[@VeloSyndicate]

Says they have modulation but with the lightest lever action. How do you feel the modulation?

[@FJ-xz7yy]

You can use those black rubber covers you put in the steerer bolts to cover the Pad dialer-thingy . if its too big,, maybe a little hack will fix it.

[@robertgraham3559]

If you lose the ajuster plug, or a bleed port plug, hot glue works well. If you have a glue gun.

[@patrickrenschler]

thanks for the review! one day I want to pair these with some ritchey brake cable connectors; then you could quickly swap between a road and suspension fork on a bike like the stigmata

[@azizuladnan2389]

So they work with both long-pull levers and road bike levers out of the box? 👍🏻

[@themeatpopsicle]

Looking forward to getting my hands on some of these. I wonder how rebuildable they are. I also hope people really do read the directions, because the setup of the cam vis a vis the leverage function is super important to be done stepwise.

[@charlesmansplaining]

I love my Yokozuna Hybris calipers.

[@woduk]

Interesting video, I hadn’t thought there would be any one making higher end mechanical disc brakes. I’ve seen a machined gear shifter somewhere that looked interesting as well

[@kettlebellcarnivore-vr5cw]

I love mechanical discs. I'd be interested in trying to install these on a trials bike...

[@rothgartheviking858]

Did you get any brake rub on steep climbs?

[@bernardleeds9909]

How compare to Spyre?

[@TheBikeSauce]

No comparison

[@dtchua]

How are the growtac equals compared to trp spyres? Is it worth upgrading from trp to growtac for use on a road bike?

[@TheBikeSauce]

No comparison. Way better than Spyres; in a different category in performance and price.

[@dtchua]

@@TheBikeSauce I see.. how about your thoughts on the growtac vs hydraulics? I can't decide whether to upgrade to a growtac or hydraulics from my existing spyres. Please help.

[@TheBikeSauce]

Pretty comparable. Hydros still have a bit more modulation, but the growtacs are dead simple to install and maintain

[@dtchua]

@@TheBikeSauce thank you very much

[@subliminalfreedom]

😊

[@robertmcfadyen9156]

Juin Tech had cam slide feature first .

[@BUNJI82]

I would be particularly interested to see how they perform in heavy duty mountain biking like Enduro rather than just trail use.

[@BUNJI82]

I'd also like your view on whether they are better or even comparable to decent hydraulic brakes such as Magura which are pretty similar in action as you've described yourself liking (I'm like minded to be clear).

[@Jinedan]

How do you think they would work with Jagwire's Link compressionless housing?

[@Luchopapa16]

I've tried this setup and the Jagwire compressionless works perfectly well with them