GS1000 Episode 21 - Fork Yeah!

[@johnbogdaniec671]

the very definition of heaven ! a workshop with no background noise

[@jasonpeters9776]

Thanks mate top notch geezer your a saviour I might just get my old Gs 1000 back together again😊

[@Ian-xt1mb]

And not one sharpened broomstick in sight! Nice to see a professional job.

[@chenderson4969]

Ian Butcher at work wasn’t it!! He just can’t stay way from timber!

[@bobbertandsammy]

Nice one mate, good vid. I especially enjoyed the noise the press made when you let the pressure off, my inner child was giggling for some reason.

[@ANDY5]

John Campbell yesssss...it was the press 😂

[@mcrande]

They look forking great Andy

[@DistinctOgre]

Thank you for the video, Mr. Andy. Fine work. I like the "special tool" u made. Also thanks for the tip on reanealing the crush washers. Best wishes. Hope you like your 🌲.

[@neilhuband995]

Learned something new today.. Annealing copper is different to annealing steel. Copper is annealed by the same procedure you'd use to harden steel! Cheers Andy, nice one :-)

[@murraydeeth7834]

Quality work, as usual. Thanks. Would love to see a whiteboard presentation showing just how the dampener component of the fork works

[@globalfallout7249]

Great stuff as always Andy. And not a sharpened tree branch in sight unlike you know who lol.

[@sparkyinanissan]

Pucker job! Nice to see progress, can't wait for more.

[@stevenhoman2253]

a joy to watch as always Andy mate👍👍🚲

[@davidkettlewell829]

Is not annealing (which releases stresses in the metal from prior use, and allows its molecular structure to return to new - to make washer less brittle), actually done by heating as you've done and SLOWLY cooling the item in sand? Versus by throwing in water as you've done, which is the technique for tempering? (What we are doing here is trying to make the washer less brittle so it does not crack in use the second time around.)

[@MCBCest]

Good work Andy 👍

[@veasnapeng1]

What diameter is that spacer you used to shorten the forks and will the oil level required be the same? Thanks for this tutorial!

[@RJR1007]

Hi Andy, great vid mate,, is that a 19 mm but on the end of your wicked tool ??

[@ANDY5]

M12 thread, 19mm across the flats (AF).

[@llewvirtue861]

These forks are different to the chain drive versions, the top of the springs up are different. The 1000 š takes 259ml of oil according to the manual

[@jimaylward2396]

A master class Andy 👍😆

[@digger8180]

Thanks, great vid👍

[@bretsnow5058]

great work mate but isn't their supposed to be a bronze bush that the goes in before the fork seal that the tube slides through to stop it from flopping about and aid in helping go up and down didn't c that go in

[@ANDY5]

There is a bushing at the top of the lower leg just below the seal and another in the bottom of the tube where the dampener piston shaft runs. They were not removed, I could see no reason to as there was no obvious wear. They are a DU type bush and are usually made from steel and either impregnated or coated with some type of coating, presumably a Teflon blend of some type. Their exact composition might be a good question for Matt@TheWorkshop

[@muffinthepug2358]

Good video Andy but dont like the idea of using a press for the seals. When its done by hand you can feel when they seat. Easy for someone to mess up and squash the seal with a press.

[@llewvirtue861]

I normally use a piece of plumbers pic pipe the same or nearest size and tap it down. Six of one

[@THINGS.I.DO.007]

Does it matter what side of the seal goes in first?

[@nickelilltroll6]

Again, well done Andy! Feels good seeing someone else doing this job, and actually enjoying it. Doing forks on these old bikes aren't that scary, as some folks are saying. A good manual and take your time... Bob's your uncle :) Just curious, I bought the same spareparts for my forks as you here in Europe, paid around 220 euros delivered to my front door(from Holland to Norway), how are the prices for spares over there?

[@ANDY5]

Prices are not as dear as what you paid mate, I can’t remember but it was less than $100. The tubes cost $200 AU each to straighten and re chrome.

[@nickelilltroll6]

That explains why my restoration has blown the roof of the my bank here :o Used your tip to mount the outer dustseals on all 3 calipers, might have been small things for some, to me it was a HUGE help, thanks... Again!

[@mikelast7918]

andy, where did you find the stainless spring clips...im after a couple

[@ANDY5]

I just came across them on eBay

[@llewvirtue861]

Did I miss the condition of the stantion slider Guides

[@ANDY5]

No, they were fine

[@nuppy.9117]

weather the tight coils are top or bottom will change the oil volume for the same oil hight?

[@ANDY5]

I wouldn’t have thought so

[@nuppy.9117]

Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions Archimedes principle

[@markkotzur7842]

Hey Andy, How long is the m12 T-handle you made?

[@ANDY5]

G'day Mark, I don't have it in front of me to measure anymore, it was "repurposed". It just has to be long enough to extend above the tube, so the entire length of the tube plus enough for a handle.

[@vintagebikes4215]

Why did you do such superb work and not recondition the aluminum of the lower fork units. Truly they look like shit, corroded and such. Light sanding in horizontal direction with 400 grit works well, and you do not want to reshoot with clear lacquer because that doesn't work well, but they usually stay clean enough and a light coating of wax works well to finish. ?

[@arkangel13th]

I 'm wondering...when you shortened a coil spring,aren't you reducing his load capacity?

[@ANDY5]

G'day mate, the spring rate doesn't change, and that is why you need to shorten the compression spring to maintain the correct pre-load tension. The length of the spring determines the distance it can operate before it becomes coil bound. The load carrying capacity is dictated more by the wire diameter and coil angle, obviously the more coil you have the more static load it can resist but the results isn't linear. What I mean by that is if you cut the spring in half it doesn't reduce it's resistance to compression by 50% because the number of coils has less influence on the springs properties than the other elements and the spring weighs less, so it's own mass is reduced.

[@joonya4427]

@@ANDY5 That's incorrect Andy. If you remove coils from a spring, it raises the spring rate.

[@northerner1374]

Hi Andy it’s interesting to see the forks assembly as the gs doesn’t seem to have the upper circular bearings as in most forks. Also you fitted the seals before fitting the stanchions. I might try that next time. The project is coming along nicely! Keep up the good work buddy😎

[@ANDY5]

They do have DU type bushings in the top of the lower leg and in the bottom of the stanchion tubes where the dampener piston shaft operates.

[@markwilliams9793]

That ain't nearly enough Loctite, you can still see the bolt! Just ask Del.

[@ringspanner]

You didn't get in touch with your inner cave man once, in fact, crafted a designated tool. Online you can buy a dampener retention device, example below Harley Ferguson part No 5H4RP 5T1CK

[@ANDY5]

I have sharpened the odd stick, but only to chuck at Wallabies.

[@michaelcroft1242]

Great work as per normal, can you tell me what size nut you used to fabricate your tooling as i have a set of GS forks in need of a strip down - cheers

[@ANDY5]

Michael Croft M12, which normally have 19mm across the flats.

[@johnrimmer5812]

Enjoyed the vid Andy.

[@mikelast7918]

241mm the manual says

[@ANDY5]

G’day Mike, I think you’ll find that is for the forks with the air valve at the top?

[@mikelast7918]

yes you're right, because alongside that it says 11.4 psi air pressure

[@Swokpmund]

​@@ANDY5got my answer here. Thank you.

[@apollorobb]

Those turned out forkn nice

[@skyaseman5561]

Hi dear. I watched most of ur videos regarding gs1000. Unfortunately u r assembly methods are totally wrong. Plz stop to teach wrong things to peoples. Example::::::: use press for fork seal is bad idea. U said ur seal sat by uneven. If u ask me that seal is done and is damaged. U most replace it. U don't need that much force . U can use same diameter sucket and just push it by hand. Add little bit lubricant will help.