GSX-S1000: TPS Adjustment & ECU Access

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Note, this is the basic method to adjust your TPS. The most accurate way is to also use a voltmeter or if you have a PC5, to hook your bike up to your PC/laptop and go under "Throttle calibration"
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[@MrREPAINT]

Great video, the explanation for taking the bodywork off was great

[@JonDotCom7]

Many thanks!

[@Galian6686]

Now I know how to come by and turn your TPS back up! Also, thanks for the reminder that my bike STILL isn't flashed...

[@JonDotCom7]

🤣🤣🤣 bro you should def do it.

[@Galian6686]

@@JonDotCom7 I know! I just have to be not-lazy...

[@EVILSPAWN1003]

I can hardly believe i actually own one of those badboys now!!! It`s sitting right outside,waiting for me to take it on it`s maiden journey tomorrow. Today it was p*ssing down all day. SO happy i went for a 2016 GSX-S1000 with 1200 mi. on the clock instead of a S1000R

[@JonDotCom7]

Nice! Congrats & enjoy!

[@exupakias]

Thank youuuu

[@JonDotCom7]

@@exupakias sure thing!

[@jeffestrada6857]

Awesome video thankyou 👍

[@JonDotCom7]

Thanks! Glad I could help!

[@sensoryamusiaAU]

Great vid! I will definitely save it for when I need to remove the fairings to get to my ECU. Thanks mate

[@JonDotCom7]

Many thanks! Glad I could help!

[@Aussiemarkh]

Hey mate, Good vid, straight to the point, clear instructions on how to pull things apart, and so on, Well done. I have just bought one of these bikes, 2016 model (in Australia) and only ridden it once so far, so i am not familiar with the bike overall as yet. Can i ask you what you mean by "Snatchy Throttle" ?

[@JonDotCom7]

Many thanks! By snatchy throttle, I mean it's basically on or off, no smooth roll on, kinda jerky. Butter smooth after ecu flash though!

[@ipohboy]

Excellent. Thanks

[@JonDotCom7]

Of course!

[@jeffestrada6857]

Hi mate I ended up reflashing my ECU on my 2019 Suzuki Katana which has basically the same problem you speak about as its a GSXS-1000 platform. After flashing I can say its around 90% better in ALL aspects. The abrupt throttle is gone and much smoother. On deceleration there is no snatch if you want to accelerate again. The whole feeling of the surge/hunting at low throttle with light load is just about fully gone however I can just feel it at certain speeds (around 60-70 kph) under no load its a lean fuel feeling but if you weren’t sensitive or really concentrating to feel it, I reckon it wouldn’t be noticed. The only other thing I need to do is check my TPS (the Katana cant use the dash like you can), and am waiting for a sensor adapter I bought to do the job with a multimeter -perhaps this will give me the last 5-10% I am looking for? Will keep you updated after thats done..... Thanks again for the video mate! Cheers from “Down Under” Australia 🇦🇺 👍

[@JonDotCom7]

Thanks for sharing!

[@FreshRides]

thank you, very helpful

[@JonDotCom7]

My pleasure!

[@FreshRides]

@@JonDotCom7 quick question...maybe i'm dumb but don't want to break something. How did you unhook the leads on the ECU? Didn't want to just yank them out because it seems like there is a connection clip

[@JonDotCom7]

@@FreshRides if you aren't able to just disconnect by pulling apart, there's probably just a couple clips you have to press in and then pull

[@enzotortor6620]

Thanks

[@JonDotCom7]

Hope it helps!

[@chrisshealy2123]

My brother! Excellent vid, and I'm much obliged. A question, if you're still monitoring this: Once I get the bike in Dealer Mode, there is no dash anywhere to the left of the "C00." What to do? The bike, BTW, is bone stock, excepting an M4 slip-on. The ECU is going off to Dano's tomorrow. Any help? Also, out of interest, on the 2020 model, there is a pop-grommet/pin that has to be pulled out from the frame at the top of the quarter fairing, above the "S" on the body work, BEFORE you can pull it off to the front. I guess that's a change for the newer models (The 2020, anyway.)? Thanks.

[@shanefrank3281]

I think the newer models are slightly different and do not have the dash. According to the Suzuki service manual, on the 2018 and newer you have to put a "special tool" inline between the connector and the TPS. This allows you to measure the voltage on the line while it is connected. You measure the TPS voltage (closed throttle should be 1.10V -1.14V and open throttle is 4.5V. If you have to make an adjustment then you have to use the Suzuki SDS tool to reset the TP fully closed learned value.

[@karkolomek]

Hi Jon! Awesome video! I really like the pace and the way you are explaining each step. Great job!!! I've just bought 2020 GSX-S1000 and it seems like the issue is still there. BTW I'm from Poland so I have EU market bike (don't know if there is any difference). Since my bike is still under warranty I guess I will wait with a bit with applying this changes. Do you know if this issue can be submitted to a dealer to be fixed?

[@JonDotCom7]

Hey thanks! Glad you enjoyed! My highest recommendation is to flash the ECU, because that is the only thing that actually completely resolved the issue for me. But I'm not sure if it would void the warranty (I'm thinking it might) so I'd contact your dealer to definitively find out! Cheers & good luck!

[@karkolomek]

@@JonDotCom7 Awesome! Thank you, have good one!

[@jeffestrada6857]

In Australia we get the Euro version and my bike has the same problem. I have the 2019 Suzuki Katana (same as GSXS-1000) Snatchy throttle, “hunting” & surging particularly at small off load throttle positions. I just sent my ECU to get flashed. Will keep you updated on result 👍

[@JonDotCom7]

@@jeffestrada6857 for me, the only thing that actually worked was flashing my ECU. So if you get the same results you'll be quite pleased.

[@davidmarceau9990]

So if the little dash is already in the middle, I need to flash the ecu right? So I guess, it's a good idea to check the line position in dealer mode before access and move the sensor? Thx for the vid really appreciate it!

[@JonDotCom7]

Right, to be absolutely precise, if you have a power commander, hook it up to a computer to monitor voltage, a voltmeter will also work, and you want it between 1.10 and 1.14. However, I think it's always a good idea to flash your ECU. Even adjusting my TPS only slightly helped but didn't 100% fix it, but the ECU flash did.

[@aticusaticus9138]

i have just gone through the process of placing my bike in dealer mode. the "C" does not show a bar at top bottom or middle? your thoughts please.

[@JonDotCom7]

@aticusaticus9138 only thing I can think of is maybe whatever you're using isn't metal or not placed in the correct pin holes?

[@aticusaticus9138]

@@JonDotCom7 then why does the C display on the dash and indicate it is in dealer mode? this only happens when i place the paper clip in the appropriate plug terminals.

[@JonDotCom7]

@aticusaticus9138 oh I think I either misunderstood or misread. Only thing I can think of is all electrical, i.e. how's the battery, is the bike off but key turned on?

[@aticusaticus9138]

@@JonDotCom7 the ignition must be in the on position, musn`t it? otherwise the dashboard info will not show ns the C will not display. how do you account for the absence of the bar at top bottom or middle of the C?

[@JonDotCom7]

@aticusaticus9138 correct, key in ON position, but bike not running. As for the dash, I cannot come up with a theory why it's not showing. Even if it were perfectly balanced, there would be a dash in the middle of the C...

[@laurencevinuya613]

My gsx S750 doesent show the indicator if it is in the middle of the - C or down of _ C or upper of the C. It just blank just C

[@JonDotCom7]

Wonder if it's different between 750 & 1000? Maybe just C is good?

[@xtrollyx_aut]

if the little dash is already in the middle then all ok?

[@JonDotCom7]

If that's the case, I'd recommend using a voltmeter and looking up what it's supposed to be at (I forgot what it's supposed to be)

[@Dlut0.o]

Hi 🙋🏻 how can I adjust the one on top of the TPS, It has the same adjustable screw ?

[@JonDotCom7]

Hi, not sure what you mean?

[@avantgardehabitsTv]

Where you get that seat from??

[@JonDotCom7]

It's the Saddlemen GP-V1 bought on Revzilla.

[@unclealzbbq2185]

so if the line is in the middle you are stating the tps is correct?? I thought the proper way was to use a plug jumper and check voltage - I am confused ... PLEASE MAKE a video of the bike after you get your flash done-- I would like to know the details i only got 700 miles on mine but thinking of a flash after the 2k mark i heard they run better after 2k miles--

[@JonDotCom7]

You are correct, the proper way is to measure voltage (between 1.10-1.14)... this method is if you're unable to. The bike likely won't run any different after 2k miles, I strongly recommend an ECU flash, it's a totally new bike. Cheers!

[@unclealzbbq2185]

@@JonDotCom7 thanks please do a test ride after the flash review who did it etc THANKS__

[@jimmymc10021]

Is there a standard "flash" for the ECU that cures the snatch. Or does each tuning company run it's own "flash"? Any ideas? I've got the 2015 and it could be doing with smoothing out.

[@JonDotCom7]

Each place has their own program and their own flash parameters. I can't say with absolute certainty, but I'm like 99.99% sure that whatever place you go with will smooth out the throttle. Many places will give you options for flash packages, what you want and don't want, my suggestion would be to always get the best one as that will completely open up your bike's potential. I went with Schnitz Racing and am very pleased. Many people also say good things about Moore Mafia.

[@jimmymc10021]

@@JonDotCom7 Thank you for the reply, something I will look into.

[@TheBigTizzie]

Moore Mafia ...

[@CrusaderGeneral]

what an awesome video.. I wish my dealer would have watched it when he worked on my 2019 GSXS1000Z... Never goin to let these dummies any of my bikes again

[@JonDotCom7]

Lol thanks!

[@Raven_adv]

this did not fixe it for me

[@JonDotCom7]

Sorry to hear. Unfortunately you're like me & the only thing that actually worked was flashing the ECU.