Guerlain Extraits 3: Iris Pallida & Rose Centifolia | Memory Flo

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It is because of Guerlain that I learned to love florals in fragrance. In my mind, I had saved the best for last, when talking about the L'Art et la Matière Les Extraits. Iris and rose are the heart and soul of this house, inasmuch as one couldn't imagine Guerlain without L'Heure Bleue or Nahéma. One could and should, however, imagine Guerlain without Iris Pallida or Rose Centifolia, or any of the other overly expensive LVMH extraits.
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[@MemoryFlo]

It is because of Guerlain that I learned to love florals in fragrance. In my mind, I had saved the best for last, when talking about the L'Art et la Matière Les Extraits. Iris and rose are the heart and soul of this house, inasmuch as one couldn't imagine Guerlain without L'Heure Bleue or Nahéma. One could and should, however, imagine Guerlain without Iris Pallida or Rose Centifolia, or any of the other overly expensive LVMH extraits.

[@gunmetal2445]

Iris Pallida was the only standout to me...I am constantly thinking of getting a bottle at the back of my mind...and doing a lot of perfume math to justify it lol. I really like the rose too 'on paper', the way it transitions is fantastic but rose is a tough genre with so many exemplary roses out there, it did not wow me enough. I recently repurchased Samsara after a long while so it will be interesting to compare both.

[@MemoryFlo]

Well, i guess i’m happy as i never think of those extraits and consider them all a joke. True perfume art is somewhere else.

[@earthlingbrightstar]

sounds like the Iris Pallida Extrait is more of a tribute to the raw material and the Heritage it has in perfumery esp Guerlainade? I own pure Orris absolute resinoid and it is as you say: Rooty, vegetal, faintly violet or ironone, slightly woody/ powdery in its solid absolute firm. When suitably diluted it transforms into a powerful fixative even in low dilution. Then you can appreciate it’s floral powdery and slightly violet flower subtlety

[@MemoryFlo]

I think you’re right and it’s a tribute to Orris. I have some orris powder but don’t know how to dilute it. What would you advise?

[@earthlingbrightstar]

@@MemoryFlo Hi I have Iris absolute but I guess you could macerate orris powder in 96% alcohol either denatured ethanol or perfumers alcohol depending upon which country. Macerate the powder in a warm place in an amber bottle for a week at least then add a test strip

[@earthlingbrightstar]

shake and agitate regularly

[@cheapimitation2242]

Loved hearing your impressions on these! I was worried when I first smelled the iris that I might have to buy it. 😂 But then the base goes in this almondy sorta cheap hand lotion smell I didn't appreciate. On smell alone and something I might want to wear often I like Bergamote the best, but it would have to be Aqua Allegoria prices to tempt me.

[@MemoryFlo]

i think that's spot on! completely agree

[@sandraB-Paris1481]

Thanks for your review of the entire line of extraits. I really like Iris Pallida extrait. I am actually one of the few patsies who bought some of the extraits! Lol. Vintage Samsara EDT is one of my favourite Guerlain. It is just magical on skin. Now listening to your review and you mentioning the similarity between Iris Pallida and Samsara, I can see it. You mentioned that one of the extrait share some similarities with Embruns d'Ylang (such an underrated gem). Which extrait was it?

[@MemoryFlo]

Hey, Sandra! you are very welcome! I'm so glad someone else sees the similarities with Samsara, LOL. On my skin, Jasmin Grandiflorum veers quite close to Embruns and Souffle de Lumiere!. Agreed, Embruns is very underrated and lovely.

[@danielcostigan]

Thanks for sharing your opinion on these ones. I was able to get all of the samples of these and have been very slowly trying them out myself. I'm curious to hear your opinion of the entire line together. I will say that after smelling Iris Pallida, I was suddenly able to smell the iris note from Shalimar Millesime Iris, which had mostly eluded me until then. Out of curiosity, are you sure Iris Torréfié has been discontinued? I was chatting with someone from Guerlain a week ago and I asked them to confirm that Tonka Imperiale was being discontinued, and asked for other discontinuations from the line, and they said that the only two at the moment which have ceased production were Tonka Imperiale and Enbruns d'Ylang. I'd be very sad to see Iris Torréfié discontinued, it is one of my favorites. Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts!

[@MemoryFlo]

Hey, thanks for sharing! A recap video is coming next monday! Very interesting what you’re saying about millesime iris and you are right, it’s the same iris. Must be a new molecule because the exact same one is used by Francesca in Encounters. I mean, i can’t be sure, but i trust my nose. Also i really think the millesimes have been experiments for them to test the market in preparation for these extraits, but alas, any millesime is far more interesting than either of these extraits. I’ll ask again about Iris Torrefie, but i am pretty sure it’s axed, although stocks may still be found. Tonka Imperiale and Embruns are surely gone.

[@MenchieExtrakt]

Wore rose centafolia a couple of times and got bored with it. I don’t care how much effort they put in extraction, there’s a limit to how good any raw ingredient smells, and it’s laughable for Guerlain to pretend they have elevated it, that it is worth anything near $600 for 50ml.

[@MemoryFlo]

You are so right and I completely agree. None if these so called extraits are worth the attention🤷🏽‍♂️

[@MenchieExtrakt]

@@MemoryFlo do you know any fragrances that smell like Iris Pallida by chance? I think it’s a good entry into iris if we ignore the price.