Guitar Nuts

[@thomastommy1192]

Great video thanks for sharing. Sorry, I have not been commenting. I've been sick & in the hospital. I like that capo. I have never seen a capo that thin. Thumbs up to this video. Stay well & safe everyone.

[@Bryankimsey]

It's a Paige. www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/P-6E--paige-6-string-standard-guitar-capo-black

[@UncleWiggy252]

100% brother. Love the way you share.

[@RahulSharma_JaiMataDi]

Thanks a lot Bryan .... JUST EXCELLENT

[@Bryankimsey]

Thanks!

[@michaelmcinnis911]

Thanks, Bryan! You nailed it again. I've had so many arguments with other players (mostly in online chatrooms - of course!) about the proper height for the strings/string slots at the nut! Some people just can't get the concept of a "zero fret" - or that when you put the capo on at another fret, THAT becomes the NUT, and it's the same height as the frets in front of it! Also, your closing comment on "good guitars" - like a D-35 or any other Martin Standard. I've played some guitars that sound great, but the nut set-up is awful, and so they're hard to play (literally you can't play clean cowboy chords 'cuz the strings are too high at the nut). Almost every guitar I've ever purchased, including Martins - have needed the nut action adjusted. The one exception was one of my Martin Custom Shop guitars - I don't believe I touched the nut on that one.

[@MrAbetter1]

Useful as always. Thanks Bryan

[@michaeldonaghey]

A masterclass. Thanks

[@iused2BAfireman]

Thanks for the adjustment tips. I've run across a nut slot that is not compatible, that is, the B slot is lower than the adjacent string slots. While the string does not buzz, when barring at the 1st fret, the B string is not fretted as firmly as the others. I haven't really analyzed whether the other 5 strings re too high or I just need to fill and file the B slot. As we're on vacation, I cannot access the guitar right now to make that judgment.

[@terrywebb5380]

Gold dust! I’ve always measured gap above the 1st fret when fretting between 2nd & 3rd fret and aim for a nat’s hair gap when cutting a nut.Your recommendation to measure above each fretted position and aim for a 002” increase as you approach nut makes a great deal of sense, I will be using this method from now on. You see a lot of setups online where a feeler gauge is placed under open string above 1st fret and nut slot is cut to a depth when open string buzzes against feeler gauge which I’ve alway thought is an inaccurate procedure if fretted gap above higher frets is not taken into consideration. On the subject of equal gap spacing at nut between strings I also prefer this for better playability. I also use this method when notching tune-o-magic saddles or Archtop bridges. Could I ask if is incorrect to notch a bone saddle on a Martin type of guitar with equal spacing but correct to let strings find their own position on saddle as they leave the string post. Thank you Bryan. Regards, 😮

[@Bryankimsey]

Notching at the saddle has been done but it can cause buzzes. I don't like it. I do set the string down where I want it, though. Slotting the bridge can help a lot in getting a consistent place and I wouldn't hesitate to pencil a guide on the back of the saddle.

[@dcallan1]

Thanks for explaining! Can you possibly explain why builders leave the nut slots so high?

[@Bryankimsey]

Not all of them. Some builders get it really good. But, basically: 1) it takes a lot of time. In a factory situation, 1-2 files strokes can ruin a nut and then it goes back into the assembly line and that costs a factory a lot of money. So, they err on the side of a little too high. 2) some builders don't understand the concept. Just because a guy can build a good- even a very good _sounding_ guitar- doesn't mean they're going to be great at the final setup. I can only think of a handful of people who are great at every aspect of building- sound, finish, and playability.

[@dcallan1]

​@@Bryankimsey Thank you for the explanation! Makes a lot of sense to me.

[@kevincoyner1200]

Hey Bryan! I’m just wondering why some if not most guitars (after a setup) are noticeably harder to fret in the 1st fret open position than with the capo on the 1st fret. I contend that the nut action should be no higher in the open position than the 1st Fret action when capoed on the 1st. I’m thinking capo on the 1st, check the clearance on the 1st (actually 2nd fret) and set nut action to that(?) Where am I going wrong here?

[@Bryankimsey]

You're not. That's exactly what I'm doing here. If it's harder to play open, than with a capo, then the nut slots are too high. In a SETUP on an existing nut, there's only one way you're gonna go and that's down. On a NEW nut, you start from scratch and work the slots down. In both cases, one file stroke too many and you've blown it and the slot is too low. Start over!!! And since nut slots wear over time, most people- including me- leave them about 1-2 strokes a little higher than they COULD be. But in the case of a SETUP, it's still lower than it was stock. I'd say I nearly _always_ lower stock Martin nuts by a few thousandths.

[@kevincoyner1200]

@@Bryankimsey exactly!! I’ve ruined a couple of telecaster nuts by getting them too low. Bone dust and super glue got me out of the 1 bone nut I made and Stewmac Tusq got me out of another. I’m learning!! Thanks!!

[@Bryankimsey]

On a personal nut, instead of using dust/glue, I'd cut the slot deeper and wider and inlay a new piece of material. Then re-cut. :) Or just shim the thing up with a piece of sandpaper glued to the bottom... and re-cut.

[@dickdaniels4680]

I really like that shirt! Where can I find one like that?

[@Bryankimsey]

Legendary Whitetails. I have several.