Repair- HD-28 making a new bone nut

[@redlinemando]

It doesn't get much better than watching an artist using precise measurements to make his work be as good as it can be!!!!!!! Another great video!!!!!!!

[@earlelfrink]

Very good methods that work combined with accurate, precise measurements and executions. End result will be as good as can be achieved. this video should help anybody who wants to learn.

[@drewboring4351]

Bryan, these are so great-wearing my new orange shirt proudly!! (now hoping I don’t give you more work with my “shade- tree guitar repairs”)

[@redlinemando]

@Drew Boring It's hardly shade tree repair work when you are getting tips & advice from a pro. Seeing as you're open minded enough to watch these videos, your work is probably a ton better than you give yourself credit for.

[@mikechallgrenguitars9189]

Are all of the strings the exact distance apart?

[@mikechallgrenguitars9189]

Like .255 - .260” between strings?

[@mikechallgrenguitars9189]

Which is better - ivory or bone for the nut and saddle?

[@Bryankimsey]

I don't touch real ivory. I like mammoth ivory for nuts but use bone 98% of the time. Fossil walrus ivory vs bone? I always feel like I'm working too hard when playing with fossil ivory, but you decide: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oH7Fomt9aMhqh5o

[@Paqqqman]

'75 HD-28?! Can't be! ....can it? I thought they started 77-78 Ohh btw, Well done!

[@Bryankimsey]

I am PRETTY SURE I checked the SN and it said "late-75". Which surprised me, too. I can double check on if anyone's that interested. "Introduced in 1976, the HD-28 was a conscious effort to remake a guitar from the past-the prewar herringbone D-28. Like the early Dreadnoughts, it featured scalloped top braces, a small maple bridge plate, and herringbone marquetry around the top. This bow to the past has proven to be a very popular model. After the success of the HD-28, the HD-35 (a D-35 with scalloped braces, maple bridge plate, and herringbone trim) was introduced in 1978." www.martinguitar.com/about/martin-story/dreadnought-story/

[@belascialoja4812]

@@Bryankimsey - That's bizarre, the 1975 serial #. Please do check again, if it isn't too late. Russ Barenburg has a 1976, and he always talks about how he bought it because the reviews were so good, and that was the first year ('76.)

[@Bryankimsey]

Ha!!! I checked and it's a late '77. Where I got '75, I have no idea. :)

[@belascialoja4812]

@@Bryankimsey Whew -- once more there's order in the universe.

[@paddyc8200]

When your describing the string spacing you say that you don't like them equal centre to centre,can you explain what you mean by centre to centre please?

[@Bryankimsey]

The center of each string is the same distance apart. Draw 6 lines on a nut blank, each, say 0.270" apart from the other. Now flop the E, A, D, etc down on top of those lines. You now have strings with equal center to center distances, but the _spaces_ between them will be least for the fat E-A strings, a little more for the A-D, a little more for the D-G, etc To me, the E and A will feel really cramped because there's less room between the edges of those strings compared to the thinner B and e strings. The way I do it, all five _spaces_ are the same and the center to center distance is what changes. This feels so much roomier to me EVEN when the E's are in exactly the same place. And, FWIW, I stole that from a 96 Martin OM-28 I used to own- many builders use equal spaces rather than equal center to center.

[@paddyc8200]

Ok now I see,that's very clever of you Bryan makes sense.

[@tacratt6091]

When you divided the distance you said five strings and shouldn’t it been divided by four instead of five?

[@Bryankimsey]

Space 1: E to A. Space 2: A to D. Space 3: D to G. Space 4: G to B. Space 5: B to E.

[@tacratt6091]

Yep! I forgot about going E to A! lol my bad !!!