Gun rust removal. “You mean you boil those in water?!?!”

Short video over how I remove rust and preserve that beautiful blued finish. Hope you find this helpful

[@Gunthusiest]

This is really useful knowledge. Thank you for this

[@fleebertreatise1063]

That looks so good afterwards. It’d be cool to get into some restoration like this. Found this while researching using vinegar to remove rust from a few household things

[@merz641]

great info..I tried it out on an old plumbers wrench I got from a garage sale first. it was completely caked...great result ...now I work on some preservation jobs on some very old hand guns.. again great info thankyou

[@MastGunWorks]

Hey thanks for the comment. Glad I was able to help you out. I can’t take complete credit for this one though. I learned that one from a guy named Mark Novak. He has a KZbin channel called Anvil.

[@merz641]

@@MastGunWorks Big thanks to Mark as well.

[@matthewrahner9734]

Thank you this video is very helpful

[@wagon9082]

Good video

[@burnsidepdx]

Great video!

[@johnczarnecki8122]

My pop is the only other person I've seen do this. I wanted to make sure I was remembering correctly and you popped up so I'm good to go.

[@juanaguilar501]

I know I'm really late to ask questions, but does the oil also have to be hot or warm or can i just put it in a pot or bowl as is? I have an old revolver in looking to restore without paying the restoring prices. And for the boil bath, do you put in the oil directly after, or do you have to clean and dry it manually afterwards, and does the piece have to be hot or warm before putting it in the oil. I know this is a stupid question i just want to really make sure of everything. Also what kind of wd40 do you use for the oil bath, just regular ol wd40 or does it need to be a specific kind.

[@linkbond08]

This was very good info!! I was wondering for how long I have to boil them parts, and you did say an hour and a half so awesome possum! I found a ½x28 muzzle brake in the woods covered in red rust and I'm boiling it off right now :) If will make a fine addition to my 30-06.

[@MastGunWorks]

Glad it was helpful!

[@IsaardP]

This should work perfect for me, I have an old BRNO ZH shotgun that has some surface rust but the finish is still pretty good. One question, I don't have a long enough container but I do have a large pot, could I boil one end of the barrel and then flip it over or does it have to be all at once?

[@MastGunWorks]

That sounds like a nice shotgun. Honestly for surface rust you should be able to get it off with a good oil like 3 in 1 and some 0000 steel wool. If you want to boil it your idea should be fine. Option 2, get a piece of steel gutter. Aluminum should work, but steel would be better.

[@kelvinkonkel3351]

Thank you for sharing! Is the oil bath absolutely necessary? Or could you just dry It real well and give it a wipe down with oily rag?

[@MastGunWorks]

Nope, drying real well and an oily rag would work just fine. I only use the oil tank because I have it and it’s convenient. The goal is to get the metal dried off and oiled well. How you do it is your choice sir. Just make sure you remember to do the bore. Can’t tell you how easy it is to forget that. Thanks for the question

[@AbananaPEEl]

How long do you boil items for? And what do you do about big blisters of rust? I've been following Mark myself and am sometimes able to get it, but other times, the rust just seems too thick, and still comes out brown. I try and card and it takes so much to finally get down to the pits.

[@Jmastffp]

Sounds like you’re doing it right. This process just takes a lot of time and rinse and repeat. I typically boil for around 30-45 minutes. I don’t know that there’s any risk in going longer though. If you have a big pile of rust in one spot gently tapping it with a hammer between boils will help loosen it up and help come off easier.

[@011CJ]

Thanks for the vid how would you brush or finish the inside of a magazine tube on an old 30-30 level action? Any karding brush made for that? Any advice would be 👍

[@MastGunWorks]

I would honestly just take a cleaning brush that will fit kinda snug… probably a 44 caliber size. Put your cleaning rod in a hand drill, and then run it up and down the mag tube with the drill running. After that do the same thing with an oiled patch.

[@011CJ]

@@MastGunWorks thanks that is about what I was thinking but did not know if that would be to abrasive . I mean I have re done a lot of rifles and shit guns but this is my dad's Winchester he got from his dad so I just didn't want to break any un written rules 🤣. Some guy got upset with me when I told him I used a 1950s penny on my 1907 Stevens break action but it still has its bluing and the rust is off of it 🤣thanks again for the vid

[@kylegilles9853]

I have a Winchester 1897 12 Ga I've rebuilt that functions well, the patina is there over all the gun, should I leave it or do a finish. If so what can be done?

[@Jmastffp]

I would do a conservation. I would boil it for around 30-40 minutes, and then gently buff it with 0000 steel wool. Repeat this process until you have the desired finish (should be around 2 times), and then give it a coat of oil (WD40 is good).

[@joemiller9314]

Couple questions. You use regular water from the tap or does it need to be purified water? You take the gun completely apart and boil all the parts? What about the springs, those get boiled?

[@MastGunWorks]

Yes I use just regular old tap water. Purified would probably be better, but I haven’t noticed any issues as of yet. And, yes I do usually complain disassemble so I can thoroughly clean afterwards

[@AbananaPEEl]

Depending on how hard your water is, distilled could be beneficial. If not, it'll leave your parts crusty with whatever's in your hard water. However, since you're just going to card the rust off anyway, it's usually not an issue. I find, if the part has small nooks, that I prefer the peace of mind of just getting distilled and not worrying about salts ending up in some deep pit on my gun, but I'm just a hobbyist. I also theorise that too hard of water (like basically salt water) could potentially change the boiling point enough to effect the result, however I have no data to back that up.

[@AbananaPEEl]

As for springs, yes boil those too. It won't hurt them. Liquid water cannot physically get hot enough to effect the temper. I tend to try and keep them off the bottom of my pot just in case though. But I think that's probably being overly cautious.

[@James-fs4rn]

👍 do you do any carding or loose rust removal before boiling?thanks for sharing!

[@MastGunWorks]

Yes, I will gently remove chunks or areas where there’s rust compacted. Generally I use a brass or plastic brush.

[@TheGUITARDJ]

The wire wheel you showed doesn’t take it down to bare metal? Also, how long do you boil the parts?

[@Jmastffp]

No sir. This wire wheel only removes the converted layer of black oxide dust from the surface. I could literally plunge my finger nail into the wheel while it was rotating and it would only serve to polish my nails up. With the time, I typically shoot for 1-1 1/2 hrs. (60-90 min.) you could go longer, but there’s no advantage.

[@TheGUITARDJ]

@@Jmastffp thanks brother!

[@LilYeshua]

Carding wheel made of fine stainless steel wire. Regular wire wheels will destroy the finish

[@larrypostma2866]

It’s called a carding wheel. You can get one from Brownells of other suppliers. They are softer than a standard wheel

[@cavscout888]

You're probably running the carding wheel too fast. Should be around 800rpm. Too fast and you can actually 'burn' through the bluing, even with the Brownells wheel.

[@MastGunWorks]

Thanks for the tip

[@kurtovesen2975]

werry interesting info.the wather tank is it in stainless ore regular soft steel.

[@MastGunWorks]

I have one of each type. Really doesn’t matter which one you us. Some people use a piece of rain gutter.

[@kurtovesen2975]

Thanks for answering. I'm currently restoring an old Norwegian 16 /65 shotgun made in my town in 1920 .so it needs some love .

[@chrislacey3936]

What kind of oil do you soak the gun in after boiling? Mine is an old S&W revolver if that makes a difference.

[@Jmastffp]

There a few different opinions here. Basically you want to use a good water displacing oil. I use WD40. Brownells sells an in house oil that’s specifically for this application. I’ve used both. Haven’t really noticed a difference.

[@chrislacey9279]

Thanks for the info.

[@supersexyfatguy]

So you just put rusty parts straight into the boiling water? Do you need to knock off the extra rust first or degrease the parts?

[@MastGunWorks]

I do typically remove any large “chunks”. Might give it a quick once over with a brush. But, yeah, otherwise I just toss straight in. Don’t worry about degreasing. You can use 000 or 0000 steel wool to card it off after if you don’t have access to a carding wheel. Just be prepared to repeat this process 2 or 3 times and make sure the part stays submerged in clean and boiling water.

[@supersexyfatguy]

@@MastGunWorks cool. Thanks. I'm just trying to save some old surplus magazines, I'm not worried about them looking pretty, just getting the rust off and adding a layer of protection.

[@charlesg5085]

Dude, change that water...

[@MastGunWorks]

It tastes better this way 😂