Anvil 036: Rust blue a Yugo K98K with Bob

Rust blue on an old Mauser, with a description on the chemistry involved. An older episode, before the shop lighting was set up for video. Visit Bob's site... www.rustblue.com ....Bob has a great selection of tutorials that explain the rust bluing process far better than I ever could.
Remember, what we show here is what you need to go learn, not a tutorial. If you do not posses the skills to perform at this level, do NOT attempt.
Support us on Patreon: / anvil
Music: Beethoven - Piano - Moonlight Sonata - Op.27 No.2

[@22cheapster]

i never thought wizards were actually real. Holy awesome.

[@quiettime6871]

Eye of newt and wing of bat!

[@kevinclegg9867]

As a new gunsmith, I find your videos a valuable tool. I really appreciate the contact. I enjoy restoring old guns, and making them functional and look good. Your videos are a real asset in my endeavors.

[@Seriioussly]

Can't believe I stumbled on this treasure! What a funny yet very informative video. I worry about keeping my firearms oiled properly thinking it was just a matter of time that they would rust away one day. The info you have bestowed upon us ignites a passion to clear out a spot in my garage to convert every spot of rust and rehabilitate my old, oiled patina rifles back to true blue steel. I am so excited to watch every video to see what tips I pick up from true masters of the trade. Thank you for posting these inspirational videos

[@Wick3d3xil3d]

I wanted to say, watching your videos inspired me to go to gunsmithing school and be completed this year. You answered my question a few years ago. I really enjoy your content and information years later. Thanks a lot!

[@emoryzakin2576]

Man I love being able to go back and rewatch these bluing videos. God bless you brother!

[@richardcontinijr9661]

This and the other video on rust bluing are my favorite videos on KZbin

[@billmccrackin8825]

Mmmmm, chemistry. Love it! Nice pit check toward the end.

[@RadDadisRad]

So many videos on the tube glaze over science. I love science.

[@janwacawik7432]

Never knew I'd get so interested in chemistry. Thanks, Bob!

[@jacktheaviator4938]

Naphtha is petroleum based, so when you use it for cleaning, you are adding oil to the surface, and it leaves a residue. Acetone works much better to remove Cosmoline or old WD-40 gunk, and doesn't leave a residue, so it saves the isopropyl flush. You can also use denatured alcohol, but it's usually more expensive and doesn't cut through gunk as well. If a gun is just dirty, I use a generic citrus cleaner in a boiling pot to remove dirt, but DO NOT boil it. Heating the solution will help it work, but you want it hot, not boiling. This is a different pot than I use for boiling parts in distilled water. A clean surface is vital for a good finish.

[@lstevens2834]

I started doing this during the shutdown after your first video. I have probably done 5 or 6 guns now using your methods and probably $30 dollars worth of "High-speed low drag "equipment. Some of my worn and crusty-looking old guns and milsurps actually look pretty good now. Thank you so much for showing me this, but I think you may have started some kind of obsession.

[@atthebrink74]

Loves Bob's products! Makes bluing easy.

[@jamesgravel7755]

That’s the look I’m trying to achieve. I just picked up the extra knowledge from this video that I needed to do it right. I was missing a very small but important part of the process. Thank you guys. Now I think I got it.

[@jayammons3834]

I’m here for the music and I was not disappointed. Thanks for this video as always Mark!

[@stoneblue1795]

The shot of the action with the bolt back in it near the end almost made me cry with that music it was so beautiful.

[@m1g0t0]

You guys are so close to 10k Ill give you one more

[@jamesl4355]

I truly appreciate everything that I’ve learned from you ! I will carry it with me the rest of my life. Thank you again, James Loree

[@yuibot5998]

I bought a discounted Star BM that looked like water leaked into the original cardboard box and rusted it all to hell. I rust blued it with some stuff I got from Brownells and I still can't believe how nice it turned out. I'll never touch cold blue again. The rust blue is so much darker and more durable. It took me a long ass time but I think I could do it much quicker now that I've been through the process. I think I did 4 applications. I thought it wasn't getting very dark until I hit it with RIG grease after the last application and it darkened up big time and looks great.

[@marknovak8255]

The slower it goes on, the harder it comes off. Rusting turns the steel blue, not the top layer. It has to be ground off if laid correctly.

[@jimparker7778]

A very enjoyable passtime. I've had some great times with old Mauser 98s and finish refurb. Very satisfying.

[@jcs6347]

Thanks Mark and Bob for sharing!

[@rgbgamingfridge]

LOOK IN THE BOX, HE IS IN THE BOX

[@joewalker2152]

Great video as always, with my favorite piece of classical music, "Beethovens Moonlight Sonata" at the end.......

[@chzzyg2698]

I see Bob! He's in the box! In the Box! 🤣

[@jmartin9059]

*"STEAM" to convert red rust to black... EXCELLENT ! Thank you for the 'priceless tip'. Since you just made me aware that steam can be used instead of boiling water... NOW, I might have enough space to do slow process rust bluing. The brief 'applied chemistry lesson' seemed well presented. Now , with a more clear understanding of properly done rust bluing... I am interested in taking up a new hobby.... and 'with steam' instead of 'boiling tanks' I might have enough space to do it. WOW ! Thank You.*

[@marknovak8255]

Keep us in the loop on how this turns out please.

[@pcasey37]

Just rust-blued a small part on my Type-38 Arisaka as a test run and HOLY CRAPPERS did it come out better than I expected! Thanks guys!

[@SamWhiskeyBigIron]

Still rewatching still learning and still making some beautiful refurbishments. Thanks Mark for your time and Bob for assisting me in making 'unobtanium' in the UK.

[@RookieLock]

That looks great! Love Rust bluing.. I kinda thought the process was out of reach for me but you guys made it look doable.. Thanks for the inspiration!

[@marknovak8255]

IT IS DOABLE and you can succeed.

[@enjoyingthecrisis5931]

13:51 yoga pants tucked into socks. I admire your dedication to shorts. I've personally avoided the things since that time I was lucky enough to only get grazed by a chunk of HSS a bench grinder snatched from me. Got on my knees to find the thing and noticed I was leaving a trail of blood.

[@stoneblue1795]

I think long underwear.

[@levimorgan6016]

Love Moonlight Sonota. Tried learning on guitar but only got 3/4 through intro and realized that was my limit, lol. Gonna try again though. Strange gaining inspiration from a gun channel, although I do shoot alot.

[@NoQuestions4sked]

A *Mark* of a professional. Too many people will have guests on and try to constantly interject themselves. Let the master give their class.

[@rfortier1615]

I have the same rifle. I did rust blue it and I liked how it came out. But because I live in California and the humidity level some of the parts have a bit of a brown tint. Still like the job.

[@marknovak8255]

The rusting box decouples you from ambient moisture levels. It's humid as the tropics in Charleston, but we still use a damp box for consistent results.

[@rfortier1615]

I think Bob had said that when you first apply the rust bluing to the metal before putting it in the box is when the humidity levels will cause the brown tint.

[@mattfleming86]

I wholeheartedly suggest an ultrasonic cleaner (large ones are available for a good price, imported from overseas) When combined with appropriate solvents and detergents they are GREAT for deep cleaning. Ultrasonic cleaning doesn't discriminate on location. Pinholes? Nooks crannies and crevices? Nooo problem.

[@ScottKenny1978]

Hard finding a long one. 10" or less is no trouble, but you need a @40" trough to clean a whole rifle.

[@mattfleming86]

@@ScottKenny1978 I understand that barrels complicate the process. In this instance I was referring to disassembled rifles. HOWEVER if one is in posession of a larger unit (not the little 2L jobs) you can bypass the factory tank by placing a larger tank inside in direct contact with the metal basin. Any tank/tube will work although plastic will degrade the amplitude as you get farther from the transducer. I imagine that even a solid wall PVC pipe will transmit energy a good ways up the water column when doing long parts. Flip the part and do it again. My wife is a veterinarian and we have had to devise ways to clean some of the large animal tools. Stainless jugs/jars/containers work well. We have used smaller plastic containers too that are taller than the factory tank- just be sure it contacts the bottom well. The factory tank is just there for the convenience. The real machine is that transducer :-) Those can be bought on ali-express by the way. One day I may roll my own.

[@ScottKenny1978]

@@mattfleming86 well, if you can just add some parts, I'm thinking metal rain gutters and a metal block to connect to the tank... Didn't know that just adding a larger tank would work! 🤯

[@mattfleming86]

@@ScottKenny1978 Yup! You want to keep the volume within reasonable limits depending on power output. I also discovered some folks using containers with tight lids to have a part submerged in solvent, which is then submerged into the water filled tank. Keeps the crud out of the main tank and allows you to use a solvent you wouldn't want to pony up the cash for 1.5 gallons of it. So far I have only tested that with alcohols and small parts. I have a few other things in front of it, but I will be buying a large ali-X model for "home and shop" use. So far I have been very judicious in borrowing the wife's (and double sealing everything) but they are amazing tools.

[@Lensman864]

Once Bob warmed up a bit (or got over his stage fright) he was great! Very informative.

[@marknovak8255]

He's 10x that in person. Great friend.

[@ketchman8299]

Great chemistry and music, what a combination.

[@Spartacus-us1eo]

Love the reposting, great videos, I miss the woodworking ones, rifle stock checkering, etc. I look forward to those if you repost them.

[@marknovak8255]

2 in the queue, one repost, one new

[@XxRumbleBeexX1]

Will be using this process on my 1895 Chilean mauser.

[@SomeGuyInSandy]

Every time I watch Anvil, I have to clean my guns. (Do the maintenance!!!)

[@steveshoemaker6347]

Excellent guy's....The pictures ar the best look at the finished Rifle....Thanks very much... pic's are always the best look at just about anything hint hint...!

[@monkeyship74401]

It's a Summer Re-Run. Am I complaining? NO! I would enjoy any of Mark's (and Bob's) work in real time or as a flashback. Now If I could just get this 'SNAP' barrel band of this Mosin. so much for that retaining spring. I will continue working on old broken down Mosin #3 later. For now, Thank You! for all your good work and sharing the basics with us.

[@StonyRC]

SUPERB video - instructive, interesting, funny. Perfect!

[@DATAK1LL]

did this to my sks bolt/carrier a long time ago great stuff! Onward preservation!

[@keepyourbilsteins]

Mark, that you on the ivories at the end? Pretty damn nice tempo my man!

[@richardturk7162]

Great job and thanks for the education.

[@johnnelson1228]

True words about giving gifts to your woman

[@ScottKenny1978]

Ferric Chloride is also used to etch Damascus or Pattern Welded steel. Darkens low-nickel steel quite nicely.

[@yuibot5998]

We use it in water treatment too in the early phases as a coagulant.

[@catlinlowes3312]

Hey Mark I appreciate you sharing the knowledge here and I am working up the nerve to do it myself. What do you do to the INSIDE of the barrel after all this? I have to imagine that the metal on the inside is affected by the boiling and everything else as well, but I can't imagine that you are running steel wool through the bore. Thanks again.

[@Khanclansith]

Some times, you just have to troll the audience with a kids learning show gag, right Mark?

[@marknovak8255]

Funny, no?

[@ScottKenny1978]

@@marknovak8255 only on days ending in Y, right? 😈

[@erichkerstetter9934]

Fantastic! I’ve been rust blueing over the last few years and even though it’s a little different, the fundamentals are the same. In my initial learning experience, after all the blueing was done I baked my components in the oven at 450 for an hour with a thin application of artist grade linseed oil. This created a thin protective coating. After that, I baked the parts with a healthy coating of mineral oil at 200. Love the end result but I wonder what you think of this, have u tried it or would u ever?

[@joelopezjl28]

Just bought some of his product. Excited to try it out

[@ljubomirculibrk4097]

Plastic bag, put the part in and pour the solvent in. Conforms to the shape and you can use less solvent. Repeat few times whit clean solvent. You can do the industrial thin too, in sealed metal cabinet pan of solvent is boiling, vapors go up and condense, droplets fall down and clean the part, no comntamination if done right

[@LYLEWOLD]

good info

[@FishingNut]

Can't get enuff of your work thank you.

[@pystykorva7114]

You even had the Garand wardrobe box! ;)

[@danbusey]

Mark and Bob, what happens to the bore during this process? How do you protect/process that?

[@Rickster621]

don't coat the bore and chamber with acid, should be a start?

[@pacman10182]

clean it like you normally would afterward

[@cookie842]

Love you guys.

[@jeanniebuchholz9923]

Comment to help beat those Al-Gore-rhythms. Thanks

[@marknovak8255]

tHaNkS

[@Shane-Singleton]

Looks like a bottle of the rust blue solution is only about $30. I may have to pick up a bottle of this, the DIY inexpensive bits and pieces, and try this process out. I might even pick up an old beat-up shotgun or something to experiment on before attempting on any of my mil-surps in my collection. To make sure I have the process down correctly. My worst-off finishes that I have are some old shotguns now that I think about it.

[@dzejrid]

Hi, Bob!

[@somefool4625]

Bob in a box.

[@tacit9873]

Bob in a box

[@jontee3437]

Now only for $199.99!!!

[@lesliealexander5600]

Oh man , Bobs face...

[@srvanddt1]

I have been trying to contact Mark to do a repro sniper mount on my Mitchell Mauser K98. Maybe he can use it in a video.

[@gpclipner]

How about antique firearms that were originally issued in the white ??? Just wondering how that procedure is performed ??? In the waxing process is the gun de-greased again ,then waxed ? Or just wiped dry and waxed over any Kerosine residue ?? Don't mean to be picky. Just would like to do the correct steps. Thanks for everything you show.

[@marknovak8255]

In the white: convert off all active rust, then buff back to white with the least aggressive scotchbrite pad you can find ( I use the purple ones). No need to kero an in the white surface. The kerosene acts to set the bluing. Go straight to the wax.

[@gpclipner]

@@marknovak8255 Thank you Mark !!! Now I can start some of my Fall/Winter projects. And yes you really are a Wurlitzer !!!

[@richardthorpe8889]

Even better the second time

[@archangel20031]

And true to Internet form, he says "I already coated the steel with the bluing solution" like as if we, AFTER WATCHING EVERY OTHER STEP, would not care to see that step as well, but then demonstrates putting the steamer in the box? I'd rather have seen "coating the steel" than putting the steamer in the box!

[@Tunkkis]

Step one, have bluing solution. Step two, dip brush in solution. Step three, drag brush across object to be blued. If you followed these instructions, congratulations, you have successfully coated your object of choice with rust bluing solution.

[@williamjensen6423]

Beautiful Work, Mark and Bob! Did you end up bluing the entire bolt? On the towel at the end there was a blued straight bolt, and the picture of the final assembly had a turned-down bolt in the white.

[@xcalibrx1653]

Which rust blue solution do you recommend for arisaka rifles?

[@James-fs4rn]

👍 awesome stuff. Thanks for sharing!

[@MrPittbull30]

19:22 Don't create a risk to "HOO-HOO-FAH!" your shop. Good stuff.

[@prpunk187]

I probably lol harder then I shoulda 😆

[@brucemccreary38]

Naptha is NOT available for sale in California hardware stores.

[@marknovak8255]

Rubbing alcohol will work also.

[@brucemccreary38]

I can get 99% Isopropyl Alcohol locally; I'll give that a try.

[@briancollier537]

Absolutely beautiful work guys....WOW!

[@stewartknoles6024]

Cool.

[@GLAJMAN]

What's the name of the cello music at the end(outro)?

[@quiettime6871]

Thats a slow version of the intro music. I think it is Mark's own theme

[@subterfusion4005]

Do you have a video of parkerizing? Ive got a nice sks that really needs parkerizing. The origjnal finish is very fragile. But its a great little gun.

[@Shane-Singleton]

Are those parkerized? I could swear the two that I have are blued (Yugo and Chinese). Either way i'd also like to see a parkerizing video as I have a few US military mil-surps that the park is a little thin on. If I remember correctly, though, it's a more involved process and deals with some pretty nasty solutions that have to be heated.

[@subterfusion4005]

Yes the original finish is blued.

[@richevans1270]

I even like this guys music 🙂

[@spymandoc]

I'm in the process of rust bluing an old 1949 Stevens side by side receiver, how to I deal with the surface rust that is present deep inside the receiver, after steaming, where carding will not reach? It is so poorly machined inside I cannot even get at it with acetone rinsed steel wool. I've been scrubbing with kerosene soaked q-tips, but it still shows rusting days after finishing (the rest came out AMAZING). Any advice from anyone? Thanks!

[@marknovak8255]

I use toothbrushes, soaked in non detergent lawnmower oil. This has worked well for me always, however you may have a special case here.

[@spymandoc]

@@marknovak8255 That worked perfectly, thank you! I come from a very different profession (research veterinarian), and after watching and enjoying all of your videos I have had the confidence to take on conserving my grandfathers old rifles (Springfield 1903, etc), preserving a few pieces for the next generation. Thank you very much for the reply and all that you do for the community.

[@Zorglub1966]

Hi Bob!

[@The1jonnyz]

Anyone here know how to prevent water spotting when using the PVC steam tube? I get a nice covering of rust on my shotgun barrel after using the bluing solution. Before putting it into the steam for 10 or 15 minutes I heat the barrel with a heat gun. I've heated it up to where you can barely touch it, and I've heated it to where it's just warm to the touch. Both times I pulled it out and it is covered in water spots. I am using distilled water at a rolling boil. Any help would really be appreciated!

[@percyolivas1128]

beautiful rifle

[@lyricrichards6547]

I have been sticking all of my carbon knives in lime juice over night turning them black for years I wonder if it works a similar way

[@marknovak8255]

Nitric acid pickle. Kind of like Parkerizing. Really want to see it go? heat up the lime juice to 120 or so degrees...........

[@lyricrichards6547]

@@marknovak8255 never thought of that thinks for the tip I will try it some time

[@jamesmeals1430]

Would the process affect the bore finish? I know with a lot of those old military rifles it doesn't make much of a difference but if I wanted to blue a custom rifle with a high end barrel wouldn't it cause bore inconsistencies? I am used to my competition rigs that shoot quarter minute or better but taking a 20 pound gun hunting is kind of stupid and a stainless barrel sticks out like a sore thumb.

[@marknovak8255]

A stainless barrel is very difficult to rust blue, and not possible to hot dip blue. However, a good bead blasting and an application of Spartan Shield and I can turn it any color you want (really really deep blue?) [e-mail]

[@nathanclark6275]

Use clear lacquer to coat the bore. Will come out easily with lacquer thinner after the procedure. As far as excessive rust you should only have rust to convert in the areas where you're painting your rust blue solution. If you don't paint it inside the bore, and if you line it with lacquer there will be zero issue.

[@robertos4172]

On the initial conversion: Why not just wire brush off the small localized rust, and then begin the blueing process? It would seem to be more difficult to get uniform color by doing that initial steam conversion, as well as requiring more time.. Does the method shown have other advantages, like superior durability?

[@topguntin]

The initial bit of rust is going to convert anyways. There's no need to mess with the original finish under the rusty spots since the bluing doesnt get darker after 4-5 passes. You can rust blue right on top of the old layer of bluing as long as you de-greased properly.

[@marknovak8255]

Converted black oxide requires far less effort to remove....read: less damage to the metal polish/prep. It just looks far better to do it this way. Mr. wertewrtwert's point also

[@topguntin]

@@marknovak8255 I ended up picking up a junk revolver to dremelsmith on after watching your rust bluing vid. I was amazed to see the rust turn to bluing just as you have described.

[@cornrichard]

@@topguntin Love the term Dremelsmith. My new word of the day.

[@DocBenson]

Very informative. Thank you.

[@gousmc1983]

Did anyone else here Ethyl Alcohol and immediately think "don't look now Ethel!" ? Oh yes they called him the streak, boogity boogity!

[@marknovak8255]

I said "don't look Ethel" but it was TOO late........

[@RStewart7244]

Bob looks like he should have a mustache. Why doesn’t Bob have a mustache?

[@azuritet3]

888 likes and 8 dislikes. Time for me to go buy a Lotto ticket.

[@dalanwanbdiska6542]

I just use the bottle stuff and it works really good. Little blue bottle of super blue.

[@alexr4493]

Technically that stuff isn't bluing. It adds a layer of copper. And it smells like hell and isn't durable.

[@pacman10182]

@@alexr4493 tastes bad too

[@itatane]

Hey, Mark am I correct that this particular process avoids or minimizes hydrogen embrittlement? (I have seen recipes that include hydrogen peroxide, but that seems like it is asking for trouble.)

[@blackirish781]

Don't use peroxide, acetone and any acid together. All can be used in bluing, but if they come in contact with each other, they produce TATP which is an extremely unstable explosive.

[@itatane]

@@blackirish781 Crap, I had plumb forgot about TATP... ”nice bluing job there...deflagration ensues.”

[@pacman10182]

if you're getting embrittlement at these temperatures, you're not working with any kind of steel worth making a gun out of

[@scottdahlberg4890]

I have a Yogo K98. The stock got broke in the back of the truck and right at the back of the grip and where the bolt pulls back. I got it swapped with a friend. Now I need a wood piece on the front end replaced. But I sanded the who gun (wood) down and re-did a poly stain of a light cherry color. Now it looks great. Shoots like a champ.

[@captmuttonchops]

Encouragement for the algorithm.

[@marknovak8255]

Outstanding!

[@starsys1469]

Good morning. thank you for your video, only I have one question, when I do a cold tan in layers, do I have to neutralize the product at the end? If yes, how ? THANKS

[@straw1000]

where are you guys located ? i have a very early Remington model 10 i would been interested in having you guys re do.

[@That1OldMan]

South Carolina I believe. There's a contact form to get in touch with Mark on the C&Rsenal website if you want to give that a look.

[@straw1000]

Colin Reece thanks appreciate the info!

[@CRCollector]

Maybe I missed it but, what flavor of Rust Blue was used?

[@marknovak8255]

American, by my best memory

[@prepareforadventure6247]

Beautiful!

[@MrJdog1987]

Wow great video thank you

[@paulpierce8941]

I'm wondering what the bristle size of your carding wheel is

[@marknovak8255]

.0025

[@paulpierce8941]

Thank you for your reply

[@dubb5508]

​@@marknovak8255 you mention putting wax onl after setting the finish in kerosene. Would mineral oil work (after kerosene) in place of the wax?

[@marknovak8255]

@@dubb5508 I have never used mineral in this mode before.....no data

[@wlewisiii]

Nice. Still, I prefer a parkerized surface for a working rifle.

[@brabhamfreaman166]

During the whistle-stop chemistry lesson, did Bob start writing M…E…R before (hoping to resort to Periodic Table symbol shorthand) realising that Mercury’s is one of *those* Latin-/Greek-derived oddballs (Hg from memory - less reliable by the day)? I jest ofc - loved the subject but found my calling in Maths & Math-Phys. More to the point, another gem of a video, but was hoping for a repeat (and henceforth catchphrase) of M: Say “Hi”, Bob B: Hi Bob M: Outstanding! Edit: OCD punctuation

[@marknovak8255]

That's C D O .......ocd in alphabetical order, as it's supposed to be!

[@xmachine7003]

@@marknovak8255 😂

[@peghead]

Speaking of gasoline, it should be mentioned that Naphtha is nearly as FLAMMABLE and should be treated as such.

[@KA-id4wt]

I will save as many as I can!

[@Jonesy11B]

Your the man Bob

[@thesweatleaf]

12:50 where's Bob?

[@prpunk187]

"HOO-HOO-FAH" LOL

[@jeffreyyoung4104]

Damn! No eyebrows, right?

[@pfmedic]

Outstanding

[@luzianwasescha6056]

So if i want to just convert some surface rust, i dont need need to boil the whole gun? I can just hang it in the steam?

[@CowboybubPercussion]

Exactly, I’m starting to do this myself

[@MG_Sid]

My understanding of the process you hang in the steam pipe for conversion.