Gundam Decals - Plastic model Water-slide how to, Mr. Mark Softer, Mr. Mark Setter ガンプラ

www.gundam.tk | / gundamtk | If you want to make your Gunpla shine, Bandai offers water slides which can really add a lot of visual impact to your kits. Though I do it here poorly, it should give you an idea on how to, and I'd love to hear more comments from you Gunpla Builders, as to the postives and negatives of water slides, and your experiences with them. Thanks for watching!
Buy these seals discounted, and lots more at Hobby Link Japan. www.hlj.com/
RG Strike Freedom: www.hlj.com/product/BAN986566/Gun
MG Strike RM: www.hlj.com/product/BAN986563/Gun
MG Proto Zero: www.hlj.com/product/BAN986565/Gun
See lots more reviews of all my models at gundamreviews.net/

[@richard1701able]

P.S. That last second was worth waiting for!

[@patrickw5396]

decal, as in dee-cal

[@zer0bre]

Positives - everything. Negatives - none. These are the best way of applying markings, detail or whatever you set your mind on. The next best thing that would look more realistic is painting those details on yourself. Easier than dry transfers, harder to screw up than dry transfers, fixable when you do miss the spot (that's what she said!) and they look world apart when compared to regular stickers. This is just my thought and everyone has his or her own.

[@bunnyfreakz]

Negative : Why not every kit come with waterslide?

[@zer0bre]

bunnyfreakz Because they retail for 400 JPY. And people complain about the price of kits as is. I wouldn't mind paying extra but a lot of builders out there don't use any kind of markings whatsoever so for them to pay extra for waterslides would be like buying a sixth wheel for your car which you don't actually need if you don't own a six wheeled car.

[@tetsujin_144]

Daniel Z They retail for 400 yen because they're sold separately. Including them with a kit wouldn't raise the kit's price by 400 yen. If they omitted stickers and provided decals, they'd probably break even. But of course they could never do that...

[@SamuraiX324]

A tutorial on how to apply water slide decals? Wow that came out of left field! I'm genuinely surprised, a little late for the party but better late than never. Keep the surprises coming Robert, hopefully this means we'll actually see water slides decals on future kits like the Wing Proto Zero.

[@viet411]

This is really helpful, Robert! Make more of these guide videos in the future! Sure helps me a lot since now I can finally work on the waterslides with my Nu Ver. Ka.

[@RobsGamingNetwork]

Hi rrobbert, welcome to water slides :) I usually don't decal my wing kits but everything else is fair game. You did a great job. We don't have Mr. Hobby where I am at in the United States, but there are decal setting solutions that I use that are equivalent to Mr. Setter. A gloss top coat will help with decal application. After decal application- I flat coat. Have fun!

[@lchen2192]

I think the Setter is used between the surface and the decal, the Softer is used on top of decal.

[@TeddyMadison]

Another tip; when you're adjusting the decal, push it from the edges rather than try and drag it around from the top surface which is what most of us try to do. Think of it as hovering on a bed of water, pushing from the edge works much better.

[@zoidiect]

Best use of mark softer is when placing decal over panel lines. It softens the decal to the point it gets into the panel crevises

[@dolyharianto]

Never thought that water slides can be used on unpainted plastic surface. I'm gonna try this on my RG kit later on. Thanks for the bid Rob!

[@RobsGamingNetwork]

Yes they can. I paint, gloss coat then apply decals, but the surface of bare plastic is glossy enough that the decal wishes to settle right in in most cases.

[@tenkaminari]

I like to use water decal more than dry ones. Easier to use, can change position before it went dry, and the most important is that I don't have to worry about missing a spot like when scratching the dry decal. The only cons I could think of is that it's hard to find in my area.

[@dragonroar98]

Can a setting solution also be used on regular stickers (like the RG ones) to help them stick to the model and have show less borders?

[@jasonreynolds6643]

Excellent video. One question I have is how do Mr. Mark Softer and Mr. Mark Setter work on electroplated kits like the Hyakushiki or the Unicorn Fenix? I saw pictures of the MG Unicorn Fenix with decals on and it looked fantastic.

[@maximusZ09]

I'm confused, because I see a lot of people in forum said they used the mark softer, while you are using the mark setter so, this is my question, can I use the mark softer first then the mark setter in order to keep it in place?

[@megaflux7144]

45 years.. i have been saying DEE-cal.

[@ZzRaideMzZ]

I pretty love the way "rrobbert184 two rs two bs" speaks. Fast. But clearly ^^

[@reiraswrath]

sometimes i just dab the mark setter on the surface where i will put the decal, then after placing the decal, a little dab of mark setter will help seal the decal in place.....I sometimes run through every decals in place with the softer just to properly mend the decal to the kit.....

[@risingDD19]

Not sure how lining marker effect the water slide but I have safely panel washed over them then clear flat coated to lock them on

[@wulfone5961]

I want some Mr. Mark Softer and setter but I can't find it on any US hobby/model sites. I don't build Gundam models but have heard this stuff works great with Tamiya decals.

[@jlara96]

Does that decal softener also work on the regular decals or just on water decals?

[@masterkent1]

one advice, top coat + mr. mark setter = 2x the durability for the decals.

[@wtcwb]

hi, i was thinking, is it good to do lining on our gundam kits? and how do we know which part to avoid and which part to do the lining on?

[@ChukFlanagan]

Is there any kind of light adhesive I could use to further cement the decal to the model. Something that won't dissolve the decal and won't show up too messy? Please help

[@ghanighetok]

does applying mark setter on the decals discard the need to apply topcoat after? because i'm such a lazy guy but i don't want those precious decals damaged in the future

[@douglas_brighty_tan127]

Dear Rrobbert184, the advantage of using plastic cement is to remove the gaps of the modals that is joined is it?

[@jhansen020905]

..hi there rrobbert184!!! just want you to know that im a fan on how good you review all your kits.. just want to say that ive been waiting for the review of mg wing proto zero and rg strike freedom. ive been wating for quite a while. maybe your busy.. just want to see your review before i decide to buy them or not.. thanks a lot!

[@dfreak5927]

..so where is your review for the RG STRIKE FREEDOM? i would love to see your review and your thought about that kit. pls do it pls. :D

[@dwikarahmansasmitaputra6921]

Can i go with the setter and then put the decal and put a layer of mark softer? And which one is better softer or setter thanks:)

[@jitaena8839]

And I still don't get the differences... can you put both of them? Or is there specific tie to put them. If they do same thing, which one is better?

[@ryannguyen8203]

Are Mr Mark softer and setter only use for water slide decals?

[@zeon13tm]

So does this mean youre gonna put the neo zeon symbol and the casavel daikun ensignia on sazabi?

[@mj2005gundam]

I'm also worried that you damaged your camera, and what's wrong with the black screen in the remaining 3 minutes or less?

[@GreatLandStander]

can mark softener be used with the sticker decals?

[@Mocha_122]

How do you apply water slide on a painted surface?

[@j4nz3]

Hi there..I tried to go to that site and tried to order...all my ordered came to warehouse and I can't procede..but the item that says in stock yet I can't procede it says unavailable..I can't ship it lol...

[@crisursua4649]

can water is enough for applying water decals?

[@Kefka44]

Any advice on painting the plastic character models that come with the 1/100 G Gundam Master Grades like Schwartz and Rain?

[@hmaizalhawa]

i use a toothpick to paint those figures so give it a try it might take long but it works

[@zer0bre]

Those figures are in 1/35 scale so it's not a huge problem. Try painting those that are in 1/100 scale. :D HLJ offers some pretty good 00 or even 000 brushes that come in handy here. With practice comes experience!

[@MrCreepjo]

So how about them Proto Zero review

[@crawdaddyk9839]

i though u put the setting solution on first then the decal .

[@jitaena8839]

Are all decals waterslide decals? And if not, can the mark setter and mark softer be used for other decals? Thanks.

[@eejdmrj3hw]

Not sure about the latter, but not all decals are water slide decals. Most decals you'll see work like normal stickers.

[@JeffersonSheng]

Jitae Na they're all seals nub

[@JeffersonSheng]

Jitae Na okie jerk

[@jitaena8839]

Jefferson Sheng lol you called me a nub first.

[@L30n3r1]

How do Mr. Mark Softer compared to Microsol? Can you tell me which one is better?

[@tetsujin_144]

The products mostly vary in how "hot" they are, how powerful they are as decal film solvents. Personally I always found Microsol a bit weak, Mark Setter or Solvaset are my favorites generally. If you work with different brands of decals (or sometimes even different decals from the same manufacturer) it's important to remember that some of them will behave differently than others. Some are on thin film that looks good but makes the decal more fragile, some are on thicker film that are easier to use, but don't look as good. And some don't work with decal solvents. It's kind of uncommon but if you're unsure it's worth testing things out before you risk one of your important decals being ruined.

[@L30n3r1]

Scope-Eye video I've never heard of Solvaset before. Well, I'm relatively new in this hobby anyhow. What I found with microsol is that, the transparent part of the decal is still visible under a light. So it's not really dissolved to the plastic. How about with Mark Softer/Setter or Solvaset? Are they better in this aspect?

[@tetsujin_144]

I've not known any of these products to truly make the decal film disappear. They help the decals conform and adhere better, but the decal film doesn't just vanish. To hide the decal film in my experience takes loads of clear coats - a good one under the decals and more on top - and then perhaps polishing the decal edges away with super-high-grit sanding cloths.

[@hmaizalhawa]

can i get mark softer and mark setter from hlj.com ?

[@richard1701able]

I have a problem with waterslide decals. When I used them with humbrol decal fix I occasionally get white blog of something forming around, or under my decal. Does anyone else have thins problem or know the cause of it? Thanks. This still is not stopping my from ordering WS decals for my RG Freedom!

[@zer0bre]

As you may know, we have Revell products here and they are more or less Humbrol, when it comes to paint anyway. I think they cooperated on paints in the past as I've seen Revell logo on my old Humbrol paints and vice versa. I have a bottle of Revell decal soft and though it isn't that strong as Mr.Mark Softer it does it's job rather well. But I don't have any above mentioned problems. It may happen in contact with paint perhaps mate. Flatter paints tend to give us problems when it comes to decals. Do you use any kind of varnish or a top coat?

[@richard1701able]

I find Revell to be better than Humbrol but no match for tamiya. Today I bough Humbrol clear FLAT and now my model is glossy. I've had this problem on bare plastic. You should always put your decals on a glossy/smooth surface, NEVER flat. I've seen some Revell decals fix on ebay, I'd get it but I don't know if it will work any better than Humbrol.

[@zer0bre]

I don't use fixer/setter anyway, Decals lay pretty good without them for me. But I put soft even on straight surfaces. That white color of mark setter just doesn't look right to me. On lighter shades ok but on anything darker than light gray I just wouldn't have the balls to use it. :D I'd skip right over setter/fixer and go with clean decal without any solution but water with a few layers of soft over that just to melt them enough so that the look is more or less "painted-on-like". I'll post a link on hljtv for you. Apparently there's an explanation and even a video on how to use it. Not sure if it does it any justice.

[@richard1701able]

"That white color of mark setter just doesn't look right to me" That's what I am getting and I don't know why! I'll look out for your link, thanks man! They get much better stuff in Japan than we do, that's probably why there's works.

[@brendanmooneb]

Can I do it without the Mr. Mark Setter ,Mr. Mark Softer, or should I spend the extra money to be safe?

[@Xdnxsavage]

+Brendan Moone spend the money and be safe. i was doing the decals on MG Hi Nu Gundam Ver. Ka without them and the decals are already starting to come off. ill have to go back now and use mark setter

[@GamingCDO]

"M" sounds like Cid from HLJ :D

[@charcoaleater]

i seriously sure you you use mark setter in wrong order.. mark setter used on surface before you put the decals (just like water used to wet the surface), and mark setter only after decals is applied

[@zer0bre]

You mean mark softer? :D You're right anyway. Setter before (not needed in 99% of cases, seriously) and softer after it's down and and bubbles are taken care of. It melts the decal making it easier to do all kinds of crazy stuff with it. I did try some pretty extreme stuff like putting it over a mesh-like structure and softing it down with cotton swab pressure, followed by another and another layer of mark softer until it's all filled in. For example, you can "carbonize" your stuff with carbon fiber waterslides for that extra sporty look. Edges, corners, tight spots, no problem! Mr. Mark Setter's the way to go. You do need to be gentle though as decals do melt down to something a lot more fragile.

[@charcoaleater]

whoops.. i just realize there's dejavu in my lines. LOL. Setter before and softer after as you said. thanks for the additional info mate! i never knew we can use it on carbon fiber. that is one extreme surface

[@zer0bre]

Ahmad Fadli Not a carbon fiber as much as "carbon fiber". I've build quite a few Formula One kits and they all use the same waterslide decal with carbon fiber print. It has no texture but it's close enough, looking like real carbon fiber. Just looks amazing compared to an alternative black one would use for those parts. I did see some sort of real carbon fiber made to easy use like stickers but I can't even start guessing how those could be used. However, they are made for model builders like us.

[@bencasey7023]

can mark setter go well with water? when we put on decals, of course there are some water on them.

[@charcoaleater]

Tio Budi K basicly mark setter in to prepare the surface, make it have a better grip for waterslide decals. as Daniel Z said it's not necessary for most of cases (i see it only usefull for unpainted plastic. maybe it also usefull for kit with extra finish like titanium finish). and yes it go well with water

[@Adam_Aiman]

why does he pronounce decal wrong?😂😂😂😂