Gunpla Tutorial: How to Remove Nub Marks

[@HyperfixationWizard]

Another tip I would recommend is making sure your rough sandpaper is wet first. Not only does it reduce the risk of plastic dust getting in the air of your workspace but it also insures that the nub doesn't get more white in the process.

[@xavniel]

Now that is another great tip

[@TheBorsMistral]

I'd say forget about those rough sanding blocks and go for a nice hobby knife and 1500 or even 2000 grit sandpaper. Much cleaner results.

[@jonhy8351]

Fucking bots

[@fomingera65]

@@jonhy8351 bots?

[@ryanleclaire7006]

Yeah I've found the more I do this its the higher grit sander I reach for, also hobby knife for the win.

[@CosplayArmory]

Reaffirms my new method of using sanding sticks. I used to use nippers and then file away the nub mark and then 1500 grit sandpaper and a polishing stick. I like the sanding sticks a lot more, just gives me a lot better control though I have noticed more scratches. It's good to know that when I get around to top coating if I don't completely paint the kit that the scratches will not be noticeable. I don't like to use the knife to cut away the nub. However, sometimes, I will carefully take the very edge of the knife vertically to scrape the nub mark. Sometimes it lessens the color of stress marks and that can also help remove what little nub remains.

[@GurtMcDirt]

This gives you a nice basic idea for your first trial run at building ... but I sincerely suggest checking more vids for proper techniques with sanding and with using a hobby or exacto knife. Especially if you aren’t geared up for painting. You will have a much nicer looking kit. I suggest going with the Tamiya sanding pad pack ranging from 400-1500 grit. Still a good vid to get into the lingo and I appreciated the look into different nippers and the way to reduce stress which is what I came for, spot on!

[@DiggitySlice]

That knife demonstration really frustrated me.

[@fanboysforever]

I’m sticking with this channel to help me put finishing touches on my figure rise standard dragon ball kits. Thank you!

[@DiggitySlice]

Cut towards yourself. It's safer.

[@daveyjones5702]

recently i discovered a great low cost option for sanding plastic: those foam type nailfiles that come with a part that is grey and feels rubbery for polishing. only cost a couple of bucks, is long and slender for tight corners, just the right grit for the fine work, and u can cut it into smaller pieces to fit into even tiny corners if needed.

[@DiggitySlice]

Cutting with a hobby knife is a LOT more controllable if you cut towards yourself. It's safer that way too because you're less likely to slip. I'm actually disturbed that you said that. It's like saying you should use a dull knife.

[@BoundByGundams]

"disturbed"? really? Don't let it keep you up at night

[@omarnsimpson908]

Get some finer grit sandpaper in addition to those rougher ones if you're not gonna bother shaving the nub with a hobby knife. The two you have work great for making the nub mark flush with the part surface but they leave the surface with a bunch of abrasion marks that look really nasty unless you're painting over the part. This can be lessened significantly by making a couple more passes with finer grits to smooth out the surface.

[@omarnsimpson908]

I did. What I'm saying is if you could almost completely remove the abrasion marks you left on those grey pieces by going over those areas with even finer grits than what you were using in the video and maybe even some polishing compound so you don't even have to paint or topcoat those parts for them to look clean. There's other people in the comments saying the same thing. You would have to do the same if you used a hobby knife if you wanted truly clean looking parts with no nub marks. I personally prefer to shave as much off as I can with a hobby knife and then just finish up with sandpaper but the sanding approach would work also.

[@danross1038]

The sanding blocks you use leave a brutal finish. Use higher grit or something you're ruining the plastic.

[@EvrainBrandigan]

Personally, I just grab a few scalpels from my workplace and use them as what they are: high precision, ridiculously sharp precision knives. Work like a charm.

[@taylanulusoy2699]

Evrain Brandigan not everyone are surgeons in the gunpla community

[@jackyboi5668]

@@taylanulusoy2699 a hobby knife works the same.

[@7lbOwl]

@@taylanulusoy2699 You can buy a 50 pack of scalpel blades for next to nothing on Amazon. They even fit in most Xacto handles.

[@paulford7914]

Xuron, or Fujiya cutters is what I have used over the years. And I am that guy who builds an entire model with nothing but a x-acto knife, and only use one old blade doing it!🤣🤷‍♂️ I started on old revel kits and testor enamels old school model Cement. The stuff that used to make you feel like you were in the model after a few whiffs of that stuff!!😳 a lot of the paints, dope, adhesives, etc. That we used back in the early 90's are not even sold anymore because they are carcinogenic poisons! But man did they work excellent. Areo Dope was the shiznit for finishing tissue covered airplanes... now the stuff thay got is trash compared!👌

[@Spaghettiy]

Do you have a video where you show yourself covering those scratches with top coat? i’d like to see how well it hides it

[@BoundByGundams]

Fluffy & Moist nothing up close, but if you watch my reviews I always top coat my stuff and use this technique. I also have close up shots at the end of my reviews. So I would check out one of those. Not all my kits are painted or weathered.

[@whatsmyname4012]

Dude your voice is so low even my phone is on its maximum sound

[@-hix-1376]

I can hear it just fine.

[@DiggitySlice]

@@-hix-1376 there's always the one guy that thinks there's no problem because he's not experiencing it

[@-hix-1376]

Dusty Rhodes ikr

[@Willisfitner]

I have never seen anyone use a dull box cutter for trying to shave nub marks. Using a sharp hobby knife cuts through the plastic quite easily and doesn't take much time.

[@beefsquatch5352]

Just got a pair of God Hands. They're fantastic.

[@UC1180_]

Godhand nippers and gunprimer razor glass file is all you need

[@petorius7174]

Jeez, those sanding blocks look like 150 and 300 grit. Starting out doing my first Gunpla I was using 600. You need higher grit sandpaper, like at least 2000, preferably like 6000.

[@randomdod4480]

To be honest,Hobby knife is a bit dangerous even tho its easy to use so i m sticking to the sandblock method as i really hate it when i see nubs on my gunpla:/

[@VulcanXIV]

the lack of demonstration for the smoothing speaks largely on the skill level of this guy

[@BoundByGundams]

VulcanXIV go on

[@anthonyvelasquez1277]

@@BoundByGundams I found this tutorial rather informative as a beginner, so I wouldn't worry about people like this guy

[@jvinsymphony6418]

Where did you buy those sanding blocks?

[@wangjonathan9904]

i dont think you are suppose to just press ur knife against it to cut you have to kinda slide it through otherwise you are putting stress

[@DiggitySlice]

His knife technique was more akin to a gorilla

[@il400]

The sanding was louder than his voice

[@AegisHyperon]

I've been getting good results from side cutters designed for electronics work

[@ionstriker3721]

So does a gods hand clipper cut the cleanest out of all the clippers or is there another?

[@keanuriibs1278]

Just use a Nail Cutter and cut the piece a little away then just use sandpaper

[@maddymuhat8079]

Im new to build gunpla, I dont have enough budget to buy expensive side cutters, can I used plato side cutters? Or is not recommended?

[@BoundByGundams]

Maddy Muhat yeah man work with what you got

[@lonewolfmodels4495]

What grit of sanding block are the ones you use

[@1981troyboy]

the wrong grit. he scuffed the shit outta that.

[@romesrepublic]

People act like $30 is a lot, it really isn't. Especially when u factor in all the model kits u plan on using it to build. I'd rather spend more and buy something that's going to last, rather than save a buck on a cheaper tool and have to buy another one later.

[@pepelenormie9409]

Amen. Cheap clippers are shit. I personally use the GW ones because of the sheering action, but when you use a lot of these normal clippers, that aren't designed for models in mind, they are usually too bulky for kits.

[@sazabi888]

Hansel Roman I have a cheap pair of flush cutters from harbor freight, I've had them for 5 or so years, and haven't had to replace them. They're also my first pair

[@RathalosEmperor]

I've tried this with infi sanding soft sticks and I always either over snap where the part looks worst or un even with the others. Or if I use higher grit it just seem to change at all. I got the raser glass one and made things worst for me lol

[@samanthaalvarez7724]

Can hardly hear you

[@mallowbasa9936]

this video help me alot

[@Ghostface22x]

where can I get the sand blocks (same exact ones you have). trying to order everything from amazon

[@TrmndsFlash]

i just scratch the white with my fingernail and im golden

[@quagavenger546]

what's the grit number for the sand blocks ?

[@cucumberz1000]

Im use nail cliper to cut the nub mark, and cutter to remove the exces nub mark, it works for me, i don't use any sand paper

[@user-dr5wv5mq7z]

Is it flat?

[@ramirezabdurrahman3497]

any stressmark from using nail cliper?

[@cucumberz1000]

@@ramirezabdurrahman3497 not much, but i think is way better than use pliers, you can clean the nub use cutter knife

[@snap_fit8686]

I barely hear what you say dude.. please raise the volume

[@TheVatten]

I'm new to gunpla and I wanna keep the kits with their original color. So you are telling me if I use a top coat after grinding with sand paper those scratches will be gone?

[@TheVatten]

Thanks! I'll try that. It doesnt have to be perfect until I get into painting^^

[@helllllo3]

What kind of sanding blocks are those? Where can I buy them?

[@helllllo3]

Jesse Clary what brand?

[@sinanjubaron1274]

what model is this?

[@owenyang8495]

Is it a good idea if I just get the best cutter/nipper, and just cut the entire thing rather than cutting it piece by piece and having to sand it?

[@owenyang8495]

On hobbylink japan, the godhand spn 120 only cost 45ish dollar, so I rather just buy the best cutter and enjoy building the kit rather than having to sand these pieces whenever I cut them off.

[@owenyang8495]

Jesse Clary sigh... I guess I need to do it the hard way... Thanks for the reply :)

[@maxcastro8487]

Japanese make it so complicated... why not just make it easier to get out instead of cutting and damaging a piece.

[@BoundByGundams]

Max Castro lol... first time building models? The fact that you don’t need any glue is such a godsend from Japan. Plus the gates are so small on Japanese models compared to other country models.

[@jeanpaul558]

Fucking hell its close to being a mute video

[@calico1146]

What kit is that?

[@BoundByGundams]

U7 idk why

[@calico1146]

BoundByGundams looks interesting

[@BoundByGundams]

U7 haha how? I showed like 2 pieces. It looks like it might’ve been an MG RX 78-2

[@calico1146]

BoundByGundams pieces on the runner looks bulky. I like THICC kits

[@joshuabarlis8939]

Just use a precise and sharp nail nippers 😂😂 just modify the handle a bit.

[@vie3147]

joshua barlis cringe

[@binal-flecki2387]

can you stop saying the n word

[@BoundByGundams]

Never