H22 "stroker" final build got a Euro R type S camshafts upgrade ep. 2

[@exedracs4029]

Your videos are incredibly helpful and informative man. I love your style of video. You never miss even the smallest details, that's definitely appreciated. Subbed!

[@sagittnet2158]

I think those small little info is what count the most and hoping in our car community it can be useful. Thanks man and 'till the next.

[@juanolivares5396]

I really enjoy watching your videos. Nice work 👏

[@sagittnet2158]

Thank you brother! Anything to help our car community.

[@michaelmilton8925]

I think you need to put inner upper plastic guard on 1st. Before timing belt. Great video.

[@sagittnet2158]

Thanks man! I dont have the inner plastic trim that goes behind the cam gears anymore and also l'm thinking of putting a adjustable gears in the future. So l might leave it open.

[@DougieFresh13]

legend. I love my Accord. I bought it off my parents in 99 or 2000. 100k on it 96.

[@sagittnet2158]

That's kool man! It's a keeper like my cd5. Thanks

[@peterbryant3584]

Great content as always thanks

[@sagittnet2158]

Tnx brother!

[@cbdreamer1709]

I love this channel

[@sagittnet2158]

Tnx bruh!

[@ridinglacs]

This channel is the best

[@sagittnet2158]

Thanks bruh!

[@ridinglacs]

Your slang is improving, uncle, have a great day

[@IanCampbell-r9n]

Nice job

[@sagittnet2158]

Thanks

[@georgegomez7173]

Damn, enjoyed to watch and learned this motor built with all great details! Love it😁👌I heard that PLM Header is good performance. I should get those header that run in H23A Blue Top with mild power than 4-2-1 header. 👍I am curious why you decide to use OEM Type S camshaft, not aftermarket camshaft?

[@sagittnet2158]

Thanks,(og) tri y header is the only header that l know that makes good power on H series. Replica should be the same l hope. I own one of these before and l installed it on my friend Accord w/ f20b. I'll be making a review about it (contruction wise) so stay tune. I choosed to run it w/ OE type s cams due to setup l have. My compression is not really that high and the valve springs l installed are not compatible w/ sk2 pro2 if. Also not really looking for some crazy power. I want the factory idle and a little bit of reliability.

[@ironbyronbigfam10]

I went thru my second block ready to go k but I'm watching more and more of your videos . What should I do..

[@sagittnet2158]

K is the way man! If your mind is all set for a K swap, dont let anyone stop you. I did have a k fever onced but it's a long story to tell. As you know there's not a whole lot of k swap on cd5 Accord and also K series hang down so low on Accord that its not good when it's lowered. That's also one of many reason kept me away but maybe someday l like to try a k swap. The decision is all yours, if ever the K didn't go through, you can always try the g23 since you got some of the parts.

[@ironbyronbigfam10]

@@sagittnet2158 I want to try the g23 since it will save me alot of money and time but what block do I get ..

[@sagittnet2158]

@@ironbyronbigfam10 you'll need a F23 lower block.

[@ironbyronbigfam10]

Ima start my search🤞 Ill keep you posted...

[@sagittnet2158]

@@ironbyronbigfam10 kool man, you can use my vlog as a guide to help you out and good luck to your build.

[@cambodianboost3945]

Sorry in this video you show that h23a vtec is not the same as type s camshafts lmao.. i was hoping they were, since i found some on ebay for 60 bucks and was going to buy them lol. I guess ill have to use the stock h22a4 cams or just opt for cat cams or stage 2 skunk2 tuner cams.. i just want it to be more torque than 2hat my previous f23a had. Since the f23a is pretty comparable to the f20b and h22a4 in torque. Or maybe ill get lucky and find some type s cams before i get done rebuilding the head. S3nding it out to get reseutfaced and cleaned then im putting new gaskets and seals in. I ported my h23a1 intake manifold and now im out of a spacer plate that goes inbetween the plenum. I want this build to be as oem plus as possible. I really want it to be a good strong reliable motor so i can actually drive her for more than a month.. the turbo setup was fun, but i was chasing issue after issue.. boost leak.. smokey exhaust.. leaking valve seals then pistons rings.. and to top that off i was going through wideband sensors one every week.. so im just gonna settle and build a reliable n/a setup. Hopefully this h22a4 has good bones and will last at least a year.

[@sagittnet2158]

It's 2 different cams, the type S have a bit more lifts than H23a or base H22. If you're building a hi comp ratio engine, then you need at least a type s cams and dont forget the valve springs to upgrade, it'll help on hi rpm range.

[@mattiegrock7847]

Ur are 100 percebt right about the cams I've had h23a and h22a4 h22a the h23a and use h22a4 cams are the same and the h22a has a higher vtec lobe

[@alex13238712]

Man cant wait for the dyno

[@sagittnet2158]

Thanks, hoping w/ the custom manifold will do justice, we'll find out . But it'll be a while though.

[@cbdreamer1709]

Obd1 manual tensioner!😊

[@sagittnet2158]

Ftw

[@carvedfromlife8949]

sensei sagitt you were correct, got my car started up over the weekend after adjusting the valve lash. But im losing compression, air or exhaust coming out the oil cap when i take it off. Like i said in the other comment i tried to level the warped block myself so i think it might not be flat enough because i have a small coolant leak from under the head i think. Either way it was my first time completly rebuilding an engine and just wanted to learn how to do it. I think im going to buy an F20b and rebuild that and put it in the car and maybe send the old block to get re surfaced. If everything is stock will the f20b pass smog and will the engine harness fit with it? Also i wonder if i bent valves since they werent correctly set when i tried to start the car.

[@sagittnet2158]

Sux it didn't worked out for you about diy head resurfaced. It's always best to let the machine shop do it. The excessive blowby could be your piston ring not correctly seated or something. It might not pass the inspection and harness fit like normal. Good luck to project man.

[@carvedfromlife8949]

@@sagittnet2158 ok cool man, ya it sucks but was a good learning experience. Think I might go with f20 just waiting on selling my civic to get an engine.

[@cbdreamer1709]

Bummer man. Have you done compression test? I would. I like your plan though. I still haven’t started my h22a. I’m no better. Can’t wait. It’s tough with work kids and a life

[@sagittnet2158]

Dont rush things bruh! Soon you'll more time that you need. I'll wait till it's on the chassis before l check the compression.

[@cbdreamer1709]

Message was for carvedforlife below. My bad. Going to roll my bucket into the driveway this week. Can’t wait

[@ryanclark3789]

I think the type s cams just have more duration not much more lift. Probably why you didn't have to adjust much

[@sagittnet2158]

The type cams actually have more lift than base. Its almost similar to sk2 tuner1 cams

[@cbdreamer1709]

Do you usually run stock lam. Wondering what you think. Honestly I don’t really know what they do besides tick and annoying. Thanks bud. Can you link a video ?

[@sagittnet2158]

I'm not really after much of big hp gain on these setup. Oe parts are ok for NA build.

[@dayadam16]

did this ever get dyno tuned and if so what numbers did it put down?.

[@sagittnet2158]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/d3OlYaKsr9p0qLssi=8oKTqN0GJP8mEnwA

[@sagittnet2158]

216 whp on dynojet

[@ek94banger48]

I have a h23a bluetop pde engine the head had supertech springs and retainers but stock h23a blue top valves and camshaft, what would he better skunk2 tuner2 cams or euro r h22a red top cams

[@sagittnet2158]

Sk2 tuner 2 cams are almost equivalent of a type S cams. OE type S cams are getting harder to find nowadays and if you do find one used, it might be out of specs and sk2 tuner 2 cam to the rescue it's always available. Thats also the reason why other prefer the pro2 coz for additional amount of $$, you can get more hp out of it. If your build is mild like mine then type s or tuner2 cams is good.

[@ek94banger48]

@sagitt net2 ok thanks I appreciate the response

[@jefferybissick891]

How can u tell the difference bro I wanna buy sum but am not sure any markings I can look out for

[@sagittnet2158]

There are no markings between base or type S cams. The only way to know it really is to measure it. Even the F20b type S, it need a actual measuring.

[@jefferybissick891]

Wat should the euro r measurement be

[@sagittnet2158]

@@jefferybissick891 euro r and jdm f20b/ h22 type S cams specs are both the same. Intake should be 1.469" new, Ex 1.438"( mid lobe)

[@thathondadude5974]

How do you identify the type s cam

[@sagittnet2158]

It's hard to spot it, that bluish color that other people say don't mean anything. You have to measure the vtec lobe (center lobe) that's the only way.

[@rhysgilovitch8946]

Would you know if I can put a h22 euro r head onto a dohc f20b?

[@sagittnet2158]

Only if you have too, l meant if you have parts laying around and you want to build a motor, l say yes. H22 euro r and F20b has same CC volume size. The only difference would be is the coverage of headgasket. Since f20b have 85mm cylinder bore it might have a slight pocket in between. But that's no biggie, we do it all the time. F20b headgasket is not available here in the states and we use H22 headgasket and also we do the same on f23 block w/ H22 (87mm) head using f23 headgasket w/ 86mm cyl bore. Never have an issue about hotspots on the headgasket.

[@rhysgilovitch8946]

@@sagittnet2158 thank you very much as I have a sir-t accord with a factory manual f20b and I happened to have a h22 euro r head laying around and was planning to put a built h22 head on a boost at some point. Thank you hugely appreciated

[@sagittnet2158]

@@rhysgilovitch8946 ok, that'll be interesting setup. Later brotha!

[@deltafox8795]

I need a little help mr sagitt, my diff bearing on the passenger side of my f23a1 transmission has gone bad and i cant seem to find a replacement , what are my options

[@sagittnet2158]

Are you hearing a loud noise that it sound like it's going to grenade on you or something. If that's the case, in my opinion it'll best to replace it w/ a used tranny ( manual/ auto). Check out Synchrotech.com, Transparswarehouse.com for parts.(l'm not sponsor by any of them) l just buy parts from them.

[@sagittnet2158]

If you have time, place, tooling and patience, it could be a bearing like you mention but once its open, it might reveal all what's broken. Sometimes its better to just replace the whole thing. F and H series manual tranny will fit on F23 and can be used but it's ideal to use the same tranny you have.

[@deltafox8795]

@@sagittnet2158 There is no issue with shifting or slipping of the gears or noise of any kind from shifting. it just sounds like the cv axle getting into something a clacking at every 1 revolution clack,.. clack.. clack.. clack.. clack, but ive looked at it and the cv axle has play with a lot of clicking back and forth its definitely coming from where the the passenger side cv axle enters the case im going to drop the transmission and take a look, ive done a lot to the car already, its in better shape than most of these cars you see, replaced distributor , ac compressor , 4-5 lug conversion , new valve seals, its getting the h22a4 head soon i was following you for the g23 build but the h22 head i have is completely gutted itll take some time to build it with the parts id like to use other that that i dont know what timing belt to use or fuel injectors to use but i will get there .

[@sagittnet2158]

@@deltafox8795 ok, making a guess, usually clanking sound is coming from the axle. I think that what you have. Its a lot easier to replace the axle than taking out the tranny. If you ever buy a axle, make sure to compare the new one, especially the length of the shaft that connect to tranny.

[@sagittnet2158]

@@deltafox8795 for timing belt and rotating parts, use H22 belt, cam gears, crankshaft timing belt gear, f23 waterpump w/ h22 waterpump gear( you can make one) or buy kstuned g23 waterpump.

[@G23VTEC]

Hey i am curious what connecting rods i could run and what i should run i am specifically using f23a5 block h22a4 head and i am going to use integra type r pistons I believe u said i had ti flip those but im wondering about the connecting rods also do u have a website with torque specs i am probably going to have to do some of that myself

[@sagittnet2158]

If you're using F23 block w/ f23 crank, use f23 connecting rods ( OE or forged rods) it's up to you. If using OE rods, the rod bolts torque is 14Lb/ ft w/ additional 90 degree turn.( just like l've shown) you can get a torque angle gauge (Autozone) so you can be exact right on if you wish and it's not that expensive. If using after market forged conrods w/ ARP bolts, follow the manufacturer torque specs w/c it comes in the box instruction.

[@sagittnet2158]

K series piston have that wristpin offset and need to be install opposite direction. The Integra type r that you mentioned, was it made by NPR racing? Then yes it has to be flip the other way. The only K series piston l know that you can buy and dont have a wrist pin offset is CP piston. Wiseco have a offset.

[@sagittnet2158]

Honda-tech.com have all the info for the torque under their FAQ section. But you can easily google search F23 connecting rods torque specs.

[@sagittnet2158]

I'm using a maxpeedingrods F23 rods and it's been on engine that blew up and l'm still using it w/ no problem. Also using a ebay no name brand H22 conrods (turbo) w/ no problem. You can trust those ebay F23 forged rods. The key to it is installation, make sure you put it correctly as far as bearing recess orientation.

[@G23VTEC]

@@sagittnet2158 would i be able to use f20b connecting rods paired with the type r pistons by any chance?