H23A / F20B Timing belt too tight?

Solution for H23vtec, F20B and G23vtec Hybrid timing belt too tight using 0bd1 manual belt tensioner. How to set Timing belt tensioner.

[@Abelsgotspeed]

Manuel tensioner ftw been sayin it for years great video

[@sagittnet2158]

Thanks bruh!

[@deegee2416]

Yeah, I'm having a problem with my F22A engine (honda 1993) I went to replace timing belt. When I first had everything connected. I had that bolt with the timing belt tensioner. I learn later that I have to take it out. That's to keep the tensioner in a downward position so you can get the belt on without holding it. Before I knew that, I had just installed it. I got it TDC, and I moved the crank bolt 3 teeth or more. That tightens the belt on the cam. I notice the belt is tighter because it's harder to get it off the cam. When I finally start the car, I get a ticking noise. Later, I found out that the belt was flapping around on the crank sprocket. And even the left side (the belt on the camshaft) would be loose, and the belt would be tightened on the right side. It's supposed to be slack on the right side and tight on the left side. After learning all of this, I decided to take the bolt I was talking about. And I used a pry bar to push the tensioner up. And then I tighten it down. Now I think I got it too tight. Now it sounds a little bit better. I think the ticking noise has gone. By the way, sometimes I get the oil light blinking. But when doing this, it tried to walk off the cam. And also, when it warms up, it surges. Which I later found out that maybe it's because of the air pocket in the coolant when I changed the water pump. And it wasn't a symptom of being off a tooth. I'm not off a tooth. I'm 99% sure, I have the cam TDC with the left and right marks slightly above the head if you take the valve cover gasket. Plus, when I got it TDC initially, I created a white mark on the valve cover gasket. So when the tooth matches up with that. It's TDC. Do you have any ideas? I think I'm going to try and reset the tensioner. I'm not sure if it's on a peg on the right side. I'll try again today. Maybe I almost have it, and I just have it too loose and too tight. And maybe I don't have it just right. I'm hoping it won't be too loose if I don't push that tensioner up.

[@sagittnet2158]

The last time l have the same scenario like you were engine is sputtering a bit when l intalled the belt 1 teeth off. That's the only thing l cant think off is recheck your cam and crank mark settings. Are you still using balance shafts? If you are, recheck your settings also. Did you experience anything like over revving while shifting gears before doing a t belt service? Just covering some angle and if you do, you might have a bent vslve or something.

[@deegee2416]

@@sagittnet2158 Well, I got this morning. It didn't walk off. So I had enough time to put the coolant in. That stopped the surging (RPMS finally rested where it should below 1,000). I thought I had it right then and there. The engine sounded great. But then when I tried it again (stopped the car and then started it up later). It started walking off. So I took the balance shaft tensioner off. Then I re positioned the timing belt tensioner. That didn't fix the issue. I don't think it's a tooth off. I 100% checked those timing marks. Maybe it's possibility. But I'm trying to solve the walking off the cam problem. Is it normal operation of the belt to now be tighten on the slack side the right side from the cam. Then the left side is slack? The car was fine before I did the T-belt job and gaskets and water pump.

[@sagittnet2158]

@@deegee2416 what brand of timing belt you are using? If it's normal before and problem exist, the only parts you change is the belt. It could be possible that you have gotten a wrong belt coz it has happened to me before on my Civic. No matter what l did its always loose, found out it wrong belt. If your using OE disregard but if its aftermarket and you are sure you got all markings aligned. You might wanna count how many teeth and compare it to the old one.

[@deegee2416]

@@sagittnet2158 I'm using the Honda brand of the timing belt. The old timing belt I pulled off was a Dayco timing belt. Which has the same number of teeth as my honda belt. Which is 113. I have another question that kind of remains unanswered if you can answer it. Is a timing belt on a honda 1993 accord lx F22A engine supposed to put tension on the slack right side, and then the left side is now slack from the camshaft pulley? Is it supposed to reverse the tension after you run the car on idle? Is it supposed to be consistent? I want to know if it the belt on the left side of the camshaft pulley is supposed to be tight even after running? Is that a normal operation? Or is there something wrong?

[@sagittnet2158]

@@deegee2416 the tension of the belt should be on the left side (ex side) after the camgears are rotated 3 teeth. The right should be somewhat on relax that you are able to flap it around about 1/16" but not to a point were it's too loose. Once its running, its normal for the belt(left side) to be flapping around. Thats the reason some guys are using a extra belt tensioner that is secure on the power steering location.

[@cbdreamer1709]

God. These videos are so good! Thanks bud. I think the timing belt is fine on my obd1 h22. I think it’s the lma that makes noise at isle

[@sagittnet2158]

Thank you much, that's good to know,later man!

[@jamesstewart1794]

So what is the definite answer regarding the timing belt and water pump ? I was considering an f20b swap but I want to make sure I can service the engine properly before dropping it in

[@sagittnet2158]

Timing belt and waterpump can still be perform. If the motor is in Civic, it make it a tight place. We dont use the automatic tensioner coz we find it somewhat not reliable. So we go to manual tensioner instead. I'm using Honda obd1 manual tensioner and after l did the modification. It made it a lot easier to install the belt.

[@jamesstewart1794]

​@@sagittnet2158 can you use the H22A water pump on the F20B

[@sagittnet2158]

@@jamesstewart1794 yes, its a direct fit, F20b and H22 parts are interchangeable except for piston and valves sizes.

[@JATDWCHATChannel]

is the level 7 breather still doing a good job of venting and not blowing alot of oil out?

[@sagittnet2158]

Yes it does a good job venting it and my oil catch can have no oil yet up to this day. I think maybe because l put a shield and it act as a baffle under it. If you watch my video, you can see the baffle l sanwhiched onto the cam rail.

[@larrylopezgomez8759]

Yo tengo exactamente lo mismo block h23a3 y cabeza h22a4 y se hizo todo lo del vídeo pero antes de eso y después sigo con el problema que me tira la correa hacia afuera que podrá ser?

[@sagittnet2158]

Hola! If the belt is going outward, it coul be the belt is too tight. Have you tried using a different set of cam gears? Also use a new belt tensioner. I dont know what could it other than camgears are worn and tensioner. Gracia senor.

[@larrylopezgomez8759]

Everything is new belt, mechanical belt tensioner and what you show in the video and water pump were done, I'm going to try the belt tension!! thank you later I'll tell you

[@znulzndn6025]

Can i apply the manual t/b tensioner to a stock h22,if so what part should i need?

[@sagittnet2158]

You can look it up on Hondapartsonline and get item # 30,27,26,19,25,18,10 and 20. You'll pay a whole lot if its new, it's better to get it at wrecking yard.

[@sagittnet2158]

The belt will be tight, you'll need to shave a material off from the tensioner like l did, in order to makevot easier.

[@znulzndn6025]

hello brother i have dm you on facebook regarding on the obd1 tensioner@@sagittnet2158

[@CorleoneGF]

I have same set up now.

[@sagittnet2158]

Kool man!

[@nicholassantos2327]

Nice, thanks for the video👍🏼. Where did you get your type s cams?

[@sagittnet2158]

I got those a long time ago when l was building my 1st H23vtec (hybrid) back when there's plenty of it floating around.

[@nicholassantos2327]

@@sagittnet2158 oh okay, thanks man. I’ll probably check out blox. I heard Brian Crower cams are good too.

[@sagittnet2158]

@@nicholassantos2327 Are you changing your cams? It'll give a good result if you have a hi compression setup a minimum of 11.1 ratio for NA. I know you wanted to turbo your Accord and it's ok to use a hi lift cams otherwise it might not give you the power you want w/ lower compressiin H22

[@nicholassantos2327]

@@sagittnet2158 oh okay cool thanks man. Yeah I plan to build the head and the block for a turbo set up. Not sure which one to work on first but Imma probably start with the block.

[@Jeff-mu8dq]

did you delete your IABs? what exhaust set up are you running?

[@sagittnet2158]

Iab is deleted. Cd5 I'm using euro r h22 intake manifold and diy 3" ss exhaust pipe. Yonaka resonator and vibrant muffler. On the Civic w/ g23, its also euro r intake manifold, diy 3" ex pipe w/ vibrant resonator and another vibrant resonator as a muffler. .

[@Jeff-mu8dq]

@@sagittnet2158 nice!

[@a.f.mforeromecon3559]

como calibro las valvulas

[@sagittnet2158]

You can watch my vlog on how to set the valve lashes. Thank you for watching.

[@erickbanzon4270]

Hi! New subscriber here from Philippines 🤗. Question for engine f20b and H22A. Are they using the same Automatic timing belt tensioner? Is it okay if I just remove them Thank you in advance.

[@sagittnet2158]

F20b's are obd2 and depending on what year the H22a blocock casting, if its 97 up both will have auto belt tensioner. You can convert it to manual tensioner if you like. But you need to replace it w/ the kstune tensionwr or any replicas. Salamat bossing,:msg ka lang kung may maitutul9ng ako.

[@erickbanzon4270]

@@sagittnet2158 This is wonderful your from Philippines as well? Great

[@erickbanzon4270]

@@sagittnet2158 Maybe kung okay lang Dyan ko nalang Po dalin sa shop nyo para makapag change nko Ng timing belt kit, with new water pump, tensioner and idler bearing, tensioner bearing and seals Po🥰

[@erickbanzon4270]

It's very hard here to find a manual timing belt tensioner. I tried to from lazada and shoppee and it's always been cancelled 😥 due to item unavailable

[@erickbanzon4270]

@@sagittnet2158 By the way I upgraded my engine from ph22 to F20B DOHC vtech engine and it's true engine parts from h22 is interchangeable with F20B

[@CorleoneGF]

My friend I have same set! Please help me brother and thank you in advance

[@sagittnet2158]

Anything l can do to help you bro

[@luvayeavocado5377]

which k20 piston are you using .

[@sagittnet2158]

I'm using k20a2 Cp pistons 9.1 comp ratio and sinced it was now on f23 block and h22 head, it comes out to almost 10.1 comp ratio.

[@luvayeavocado5377]

@@sagittnet2158 okay i was planning on using a3

[@sagittnet2158]

@@luvayeavocado5377 Any pistons can be use other than k20a2 as long as it'll clear the intake and exhaust valve. One of my subscriber mentioned that he's using a J series pistons. The reason behind a k20a2 is because of the similarty of the valve reliefs. So you can use any hi-lift camshafts if you wish and you don't worry about piston and valve smacking one another. Of course a known well brand piston doesn't have the piston crown like oem has. So yeah! just verify that your piston to head clearances are good and make sure that your compression ratio target is not way up high that no tuner will touch it unless your'e running e85. And that's was the good thing about k20a2 piston, the comp ratio is right on. Good luck to your build and tnx for watching and pls use only Honda oem headgasket and no other, prices are all just about the same.

[@luvayeavocado5377]

@@sagittnet2158 oh thank you . ur build is amazing and great job man

[@sagittnet2158]

@@luvayeavocado5377 thanks bud!

[@NaNaxch]

i just realise my tensioner bearing not the same as yours..my timing belt always slide out a lil bit..makes the belt grind with the plastic cover & valve cover

[@sagittnet2158]

I'm using Obd1 H tensioner, sometimes it can walk too when it's worn out. Do you have the obd2 wheel and using a kstune manual tensione?

[@NaNaxch]

@@sagittnet2158 yes using the auto tensioner that are modify with nut bolt to make it manual when tightening..

[@NaNaxch]

almost 3 years didnt drive my honda because of that timing belt slide off..maybe i should try convert it to obd1 manual tensioner

[@sagittnet2158]

@@NaNaxch if you have a previous belt walking out a bit, it could be the wheel is worn out( not flat anymore/ wore out in angled). Did you put a new wheel or reuse the old one. As far as the diy belt tensioner. I dont see any problem w/ it as long you dont get it to tight.

[@sagittnet2158]

@@NaNaxch you can also check your cam gears, it could be worn out in angle also. But the wheel have a lot something to do w/ it walking out.