Use Your Insert Drill as a Boring Bar! 2 Operations from 1 Tool! - Haas Automation Tip of the Day

Today, Mark shows you how to save time and money by using your Insert Drill to perform both a drilling operation AND a boring operation.
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[@sunshinecoastmakerspace3500]

When I was doing this I set-up an extra tool in the tool offsets. The primary offset - say offset number 1010 - would be the drilling op, with the tool axis set to Y=0, and then the second offset would be 1022 (offset 10 + 12, because there are 12 stations in my turret) and I would probe this like a boring bar. This way I could use my CAM system to define the operations, and then just call a different tool number between ops. This worked really well and prevented any screw ups with drilling off centre accidentally.

[@wildironmedia]

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[@rogerfroud300]

If you're stuck you can use pretty much any milling cutter as a boring bar with a little care.

[@jim4949]

You can use this Sandvik COROMANT 880 series drill as a boring bar in any material. The peripheral insert has a wiper edge by design. This can achieve a superior finish when the feed and speed is adjusted on finish pass.

[@xxhasudin]

How do you prevent a lip on the exit side of the bore with this tool? There seems to be some positive material at the exit side on every piece we run.

[@thinker4life482]

Ever use a boring bar on the mill and do what I call "Synced Interpolated Boring" with x and y and a single cutting point with the spindle synced on a large workpiece? Comes in handy to get a lathe finish on a round part. Only good for finish cuts... must have a low gear

[@TrasherFCR]

At last there was a translation into Russian. Thanks!

[@Sacha91199]

u could make the whole part with the drill, u just need a parting off tool

[@troutbum8699]

Most of the time it's the other way around I don't have a drill big enough to allow the boring bar in. I'll step over the drill to open it up for the bar.

[@Kaser]

I learned something there

[@salehalwadyah31]

Hello, do you have an agent in Saudi Arabia?

[@erichuntsinger6452]

Nice tip.. I was doing this 20 years ago in aluminum when the tool rep told me it was a bad idea. made a lot of money with this method.. that's the idea isn't it? wouldn't recommend it for steel though. unless you have a really short stubby indexable.

[@TheWidgetWorks]

+Eric Huntsinger You sure can use them in steel and I'm sure that most manufacturers have parameters for boring in almost every material. I use a Seco 1.5" Ø 3xD length drill for boring all the time in steel and stainless and haven't had any problems. They even list cutting data for boring/turning with up to a 3xD drill.

[@Robert-mz7yr]

Eric Huntsinger i use it even for Inconnel and titanium as well, works perfect

[@FredFlintstone21]

We are using a 19.05mm 880 drill drilling, then helically counter boring a 22mm dia counterbore. We also use 880s that drill into half weld, half air cuts, at lower feeds. The gr4344 perifery insert works great for this. If we dont need the 880, I do prefer single pointed replaceable tip drills. We have Walter, sandvik 870, iscar cham and sumocham. Iscar seems to drill the most amt of holes before replacement is needed. We avoid 880 in stacked plate. One of our 880 drills is set in an offset holder you can adjust. It is an 18.5mm drill adjusted out to 18.89mm. Works well. We have a bigger 880 drill, I want to say its 2.050" dia drill, takes 09-06 inserts, drills at a massive chip load. We push it hard, and it delivers very thick chips.

[@maciejsn2126]

No problem with drill of 60mm and redrill to 80mm on duplex stainess steel. It all depends on MC rigidity

[@thunderthormx]

Chip evacuation can be a problem sometimes but I've successfully done it in steel. I always still use a boring bar for finish pass

[@173roberto]

Guys can you teach us how to align the boring bar holder? I have the BOT 1-1/4" and I always center the hole with dial indicator, but somehow when I mount the drill it moves off center a little bit. It is really hard to align the BOT boring bar holders. The small cam which moves up and down, turns into a headache, maybe I don't know the correct technique. Please give us a hand.

[@mightydeathlash2867]

I would also like to know this.

[@billknighton4181]

I can’t get that cam to work right. It’s too much trial and error and you have to take the whole thing apart for each error. I took the cam out and use a plastic mallet to tap the tool holder into position and then tighten it.

[@173roberto]

@@billknighton4181 I end up doing the same thing with hammering with plastic rod

[@tayloraustin1997]

How big of a cut could it take

[@phranklyn]

7

[@slaffer27]

The right tool for the right job is always the best idea. The little bit of time saved on a tool change is irrelevant. Next are you going to tell me to use my grooving tool to face, turn, and part off? Why not 2 tool set up that way. LOL BTW i may have done both a time or 2 LOL

[@slaffer27]

+Rian Callahan thanks, I was totally being a smart ass. I actually use a .5 inserted drill as my .5 boring bar just because it is more stable then any boring bar I have in my shop

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[@omarbautista7847]

to bad video, i cant use that bald man

[@brucefinkler2761]

Using a drill as a boring bar is a bad tip. Drills are designed for axial load and are weak in radial load applications. Metal fatigue will weaken the tool and cause failure after a period of time. Machines have turrets for a reason. Buy a boring bar!

[@85Schaub]

+Bruce Finkler Its aluminum, and the cut was minimal. Your argument might be valid if cutting say, tool steel or stainless, but for aluminum (and not to mention using these big insert drills) it's going to work just fine.

[@brucefinkler2761]

+Nate Schaub I agree the aluminum job is no problem but look at the drills at the end of the video they are not designed as boring tools. Using a $500 dollar drill (1.0") for boring is going to cost you in the long run. People will always try to cut steel and wonder why the tool fails.

[@haasautomation]

+Bruce Finkler Thanks for the comment. For a production job, a dedicated boring bar is the way to go. For prototype work, or simply chamfering a hole you just drilled, being able to step-over a drill can really save the day. We can’t always wait for the right boring bar to come in - and sometimes can’t afford one.Some drills, like the Sandvik A880 that we used in the video, have been designed to do some boring on top of being fiercely effective drills, even on steels: www2.coromant.sandvik.com/coromant/pdf/corokey_2007/usa/212-223.pdf.Just a tip to keep in your back pocket, for a rainy day.Sincerely, Mark from Haas' Tips of the Day

[@brucefinkler2761]

Thanks, It is a useful tip but often people try a 5x drill and wonder why it chatters. Keep the tips coming!

[@fatmachinistfataman5360]

for roughing and .015 tolerance it is the efficiency way . some lathe have only 10 place for tool holder, and some complex part you use up all tool holder real quick. if you don't do that you have to break to 2nd operation not good for fast pace production work place.