Loctite PRIMER?! Most DIYers Have No Idea

[@HacksbyDad]

Check out all of my Nuts and Bolts videos in this playlist... kzbin.info/aero/PL_WcGw5s6Cq6YK_s-NNne1838j25ijmii 👍😎

[@MattLitkeRacing]

Thanks for replying to my comment on the other video. I have found the primer helps so I use it on critical parts of my race cars

[@HacksbyDad]

👍😎

[@jimbrookhyser]

Distributions are interesting! I'd rather have a consistent performance rather than a good average.

[@HacksbyDad]

👍😎

[@allenm00]

I would suggest trying this same type of test with the following: medium thread locker with bolts & nuts as is, and again with the nuts & bolts cleaned before applying the thread locker. We found a huge difference when using Acetone to clean before applying threadlocker.

[@ozyrob1]

Quite surprising the variation. There's a few readings with substantial differences. I wonder what could explain that. Great tests with some really interesting results.

[@HacksbyDad]

👍😎

[@goodun2974]

This shows that, generally speaking, any kind of adhesive cure is almost always stronger if the cure is slow rather than fast; and primers can, in some circumstances, weaken rather than strengthen the bond.

[@jkg6211]

They don't cure well, and sometimes not at all, on stainless bolt and nuts without the primer. In some cases, it's an unfortunate necessity.

[@vaguincolombia]

Hello Dad!!. "Gracias por el video", thanks for the video. Im not from USA, im from Colombia. If i remember the primer is mainly for cold temperatures to shorten the drying time of the threadlocker. In Colombia we dont have that, as we have a single tropical weather all year long. But anyways i enjoyed your video. Have a nice day Papá.

[@HacksbyDad]

Thanks! Yes, it’s mainly for curing speed in cold temperatures and on passive metals. 👍😎

[@goodun2974]

​@@HacksbyDad, it's my understanding that threadlocking compounds are a variant of cyano-acrylate compound ( CA/Super glue) designed to cure in the absence of oxygen; tight threads exclude air from the interface, which begins the cure. Also, CA glues in general cure from exposure to moist air, and cure more slowly in dry environments; and so it makes sense that a primer would be helpful for fast cure of anything CA-adjacent in cold temps, which tend to be dry-air environments.

[@goodun2974]

Threadlocker doesn't "dry", it cures. Note that you can't simply add a drop of Loctite or similar to the fastener after you connect them ---- it must be put on the threads prior to assembly. Otherwise, for after the fact threadlocking, you need Glyptol or a similar lacquer-like compound.

[@philliplopez8745]

If you want to activate a surface paint or adhesive , try a little white vinegar, 30 % works even better .

[@TrailBlazer5280]

Never even heard of this stuff. Great video and testing i think if you have a can it definitely doesn't hurt. though i think you should not remove the outliers on such a small sample. Maybe 8-10 you can do that but the variability of the hardware and the adhesives should be considered. This is what you'll really face

[@HacksbyDad]

👍😎

[@TelosDextroza]

On my case i never have seen the primer wherever the loctite it's sell, can other thing be used in sustitution of the primer!?

[@HacksbyDad]

I don't know of a substitute for the primer. In most cases the primer is probably not needed.

[@TelosDextroza]

@@HacksbyDad Thanks for your reply, God blessed you 🙏🏼

[@igotbricotools2035]

How do u do for play the video on plainnsite ?

[@zijie-he]

Do you want to wire brush the plain steel before applying the loctite? I think the black color is because of the oxidization.

[@HacksbyDad]

Thanks! I didn’t think of that. 👍😎

[@johncunningham4820]

Actually , the Black is a surface coating to PREVENT rust in storage .

[@goodun2974]

​@@johncunningham4820, *anodizing*, an electrolytical process to prevent further oxidation; but high-humidity or condensation will cause rusting eventually. Identically anodized fasteners (same metal and coating) tend to cold-weld themselves together anyway.....

[@joewoodchuck3824]

The black color is a chemical coating.

[@joewoodchuck3824]

​@@goodun2974 I didn't know anodizing was used on anything but aluminum. Edit: Upon reading, ferrous metals are specifically excluded from being anodized.

[@larryseibold4287]

I am supper concerned with the low torque values. Thread locker should create a fairly uniform torque (not a surprising high and certainly never low). They are generally anaerobic, so maybe the 0 and low ones had too much air (too loose) to work (cure) properly. Who knows, but clearly a fail. Another thing that this shows, is testing is very important if it is a critical install.

[@HacksbyDad]

👍😎

[@pmaint1]

How were you able to remove the red loctite without heat?

[@HacksbyDad]

A short cheater bar. 😎

[@gman-xd5hd]

How about nylon with lock washer ?

[@joewoodchuck3824]

I think thread locker beats them both.

[@aliveandkicking1977]

Thanx 👍

[@HacksbyDad]

👍😎

[@ytuploads9742]

As far as I can tell, Loctite seems to need a primer if the formula ends in a even number, and for odd ending formulas, these are usually labeled as "oil resistant." I'm searching for a different formula because the primer has only a year shelf life.

[@philliplopez8745]

Loctite is intended to combat vibration induced loosening . It is not really an adhesive .

[@HacksbyDad]

Thanks! It is an anaerobic adhesive that is used to prevent loosening by vibration. Measuring its breakaway or breakloose torque is a convenient way that the manufacturers use to test its strength. 👍😎

[@philliplopez8745]

@@HacksbyDad would you try and glue something with it ?

[@philliplopez8745]

@@HacksbyDad they use the Junkers test , are you familiar?

[@HacksbyDad]

@@philliplopez8745 Nope. I would not.

[@HacksbyDad]

@@philliplopez8745 Yup. I can't figure out an easy way to make a Junker test rig. Here's my diy version of an alternate aviation vibration test rig... kzbin.info/www/bejne/oqjXhop4Z7l8j6M 👍😎

[@rafc843]

Are you from Hawaii? I hear a little Hawaii local twang in your voice lol😂

[@HacksbyDad]

🤙😎

[@GTRliffe]

you used the primer wrong it's not supposed to just be sprayed on like paint-move the spray close to the thread it's supposed to soak the thread and remove contaminants with it picture dries and works best with heat-just use a lighter or something and you speed up the chemical reaction BTW heat speads up any chemical reaction