Simple, interesting and straight to the point. Thank you papá.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It is truly selfless to share this information.

Nice test but your interpretation of your results is oversimplified. Seems to me that your activated samples were dramatically better than the Non-Activated when you look at the huge variability in the Non-Activated compared to the Activated cases. The difference in the averages is not that big, but the differences in variability and worse case is enormous. That is what counts. You need to have the WORSE CASE to be good enough NOT the average! Please revise your analysis and emphasis. Your comparison and testing are great 😀

No change no use

Been using this method for years. LONG before KZbin. Try wrapping it around a spatula for the tight spot where the windshield and dash meet.

At a pinch use nail polish to lock nuts . It's a bushy trick to get you home . 🦘🇭🇲👍

this was information that i didn't know i needed. thanks for the neat information!

I wonder how nyloks would compare, good job, not as strong as I thought.

Noice!

Yes. I need a bathtub 😂

Awesome! I have the same kitchen faucet and have replaced the spray head twice, but kept the old ones. I'm going to refurbish them!

Great video. How did you know which spare parts to buy? Also, was it hards to remove the value?

You know perfectly well that you will end up replacing the entire unit as they are flimsy and the cap will break when you take it off.

Good to know, thank you.

I assume the purpose of these products in not a short term test of a few days, rather months to years of ability to break away nuts/bolts with disparate metals.

ok

Interesting. I had never heard of this before. Also interesting is how mixed the results are, especially the 72 hour one.

One day somebody please figure out what a gallon of the cheapest loctite would cost. Just guessing at least $3,000 a gallon. Great stuff. Have a couple bottles in my garage that are over 40 years old. Used some last year for screws on keyed operated lock on my basement steel door. Had to tighten them several times a year but not since using some loctite. Just hope I can remove them without using a grinder to hack off recessed uphold heads.

Better method, get a small squeegee, fold the dry microfiber cloth over the squeegee and clean. Use second damp cloth with water to clean. Use third drymicrofiber cloth to remove streaks and left over grime. The handheld squeegee makes it easy to clean without even having to get in the car.

The specs say that prevailing torque ought to be higher than breakaway torque, but that was never the case. Anyone know what's going on?

Now replace the wax seal because you blew it out with the plunger.😮

Back in 1978 I couldn't find anything to keep my kickstarter attached to my Maico.

My experience from working on motorcycles and Volkswagons is that Loctite won't properly cure unless it is under load. Just putting a nut on a bolt is not enough to test the strength of Loctite. For example, when putting studs into an engine block, you would install the stud to the appropriate height above the block using Loctite 262 as directed. Then you would put a nut on top of a bushing or a stack of washers on the stud to force it into a load condition in the direction it would see under service, ie, under tension as if it were being pulled out of the block. Then torque the nut as specified for the assembly, wait overnight and remove the nuts and washers from the studs. Obviously, the tensioning nut and the section of stud that it engages should be free of Loctite. In my example, after 48hr it would take a bit of heat from a propane torch and a lot of torque to get studs out that were installed in this manner. I've seen nuts and bolts with Loctite on them, but no load, that are still wet and uncured after a week.

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Mine just won’t clear the casing at all, even without me touching the bobbin thread to pull it through. I’m ready to give up. Sewing machines are too much hassle

Thank you! Short and simple.

Sooo, like whatever. Also you let them set un-tightened, which made the whole thing random AF.

THANK U SOOOO MUCH BRO!!! IM ONLY 10, AND I DID IT!!!!!!

Show me the glue name

It would also be interesting to test oily bolts that had been simply wiped dry.

how is this accurate if it's not tighten to a torqued spec?

Holy $h!t - no wonder I bought the wrong size flapper the first time - I measured mine & bought what the measurement was because I didn't know that you need to deduct an inch. Thanks! My most recent flapper was less than 5 years old I believe, but my tank had started leaking into the bowl & the tank periodically refilling just as you described in this video. I was shocked when I took the lid off to check the flapper - it was starting to disintegrate! I have never ever seen a flapper disintegrating like mine did. I think it must be due to one or both of 2 factors: the high amount of chlorine my city has been putting in the water supply, &/or the flapper I had was made of an inferior rubber quality product.

It must be for removal over a long period of time?

I wonder how the results would have changed had you used a solid piece of plate steel and drilled holes in it and then placed all of these bolt/nut sets through the holes and used a flat washer on the head side and a lock washer on the bolt side and torqued the sets to a specified torque setting.

Overall, great info! There are some interesting things in your test. I have read a large number of responses and have had a lot of experience with fasteners in everything from manufacturing machinery like metalworking tools, in aircraft and automobiles to fasteners in the marine environment exposed to the weather, inside vessels and under water. Regardless of how Loctite shows their testing in one short video, that is not a real world situation because the bolt head and nut are not applying pressure on anything and therefore are not in tension. When under tension the film thickness is more controlled than when the nuts are not applying pressure. When torqued down, regardless of the amount of torque, there is a place on the threads where the film thickness goes to zero and increases as the shapes of the threads separate. The best strength is dependent on the correct film thickness. The dip in resistance after 96 hours makes me wonder what was different on that day. Big temperature change? Bad batteries? What else was different? A sample size of one is also not the greatest source of data. Testing of four or five at each time interval would lead to better average data and also show any unexpected deviations. I understand that you're buying the nuts and bolts and they're not free but I also have some formal education in random sampling.

There are two distinct versions of nylocs, one of them has about 6 indentations in the metal around the nyloc and the other, inferior one has only one such indentation. I only use those with multiple indentations

what if the windows are filmed?

We use to use clear nail polish. Wonder what it breaks out hint hint or even helps?

Awesome I love fast, no bullshit blah blah tests like this... Awesome job!

I thought you need 500° degrees of heat to even move a bolt after red was used?

Newspaper also does a damn good job

Who is going to do all that. Just put a drop or two on the bolt and slap it together.

Breezed by “reinstall spring and rubber seal” like it’s not the hardest thing I’ve ever done

Never use 70% Isopropyl alcohol as this is rubbing alcohol and is mixed with oils for use on skin. To clean something always use 99%+ only.

Duracell

Whats the best thing to use on a threaded sleeve used for spark plug hole repairs?

Does this work better than an ammonia/vinegar mix?

Sorry still prefer the original super glue. Having them in multiple applicators is convenient and less headache of trying to unclog a big bottle of glue. Also if you need something cured quickly you can sprinkle some baking soda on it to making cure instantly and its stronger

I'd recommend you to use 5 samples for each cell of the tables. Your data presents a lot of noise.

You helped me solve a problem unrelated to this video. I was trying to find out how the thread was supposed to be coming off of the bobbin after threading. I noticed in the video your bobbin thread was coming over the top of the bobbin and mine was coming off on the right side of the bobbin (if any of this makes sense, LOL. Anyway I rethreaded the bobbin making sure it came off over the bobbin and my stitch was perfect. Thank you for the unintentional help.