Hair shear sharpening ✂️ step by step!

[@toddbenko6701]

Cliff, One last thing to add to your process, is check the tips for gapped tips! I know you already know the three ways to fix the issue. For those who watch the video, every time we sharpen hair shears we remove metal off the blades and the blade become narrower across the plan(top) view of the blade. Hence with steel lost, the tips will open up and produced a gapped tip that causes the shear to hook and hold hair. Also what Cliff showed is the short simple version when everything is in great starting condition. Blade are in good condition. This often isn't the norm once you get a few sharpening into a set of hair shears.

[@CurryCustomCutlery]

Thanks for the extra info on that, it is a great detail to add.

[@sharpfactory3705]

Nice i would love to see more hair sheer sharpening

[@robbabcock_]

Very nice work! I've been looking for an excuse to buy some resin bonded diamond Naniwa stones, maybe this is it!😉

[@CurryCustomCutlery]

You won’t regret it.

[@jdctact]

Where would one get the equipment you used here ?

[@CurryCustomCutlery]

Bucktool 2x42

[@jdctact]

@CurryCustomCutlery I was looking at the twice as sharp system for shears but the disc system in this video looks far superior with the ability to do clippers as well, did you build it or is it a purchasble system ?

[@toddbenko6701]

@@jdctact don't do clippers with a flathone. Different machine for clipper blades

[@jdctact]

@toddbenko6701 the 3rd plate over looks to be conical for hollowgrind clippers

[@CoreyZinberg]

You might as well be free handing it

[@l26wang]

How would you do this with just stones and a HF 1x30? I have fully convex personal hair shears that are dull that I want to sharpen. Is it possible with the equipment I have? I don't need a perfect job as you've done.

[@toddbenko6701]

@i26wang, While it is technically possible, I would not recommend the action unless you have made extensive attempts with practice shears and possible hands on training. To make hair shears cut 50% comes from the shear set, 30% from the inside rideline and 20% from the outside sharpening. For fully convex you would need to Okomi Gold clamp attached to your HF 1x30. The other thing is for fully convex shear many of us use grit on cushion pads to help soften or basically widen the contact area. With Hard contacts like the 1x30 you are only touching a single point on the shear. EVERYTHING is curved on these hair shears. So single contact point gets hard to manage. Just think of running a knife on a paper wheel to take out rust on a knife to understand the concept. how do the contact points look running on a knife from single contact point? If you don't care about the full convex you can convert them to a semi-convex blade but putting bevel on the outside without the full convex. Again heed the word of caution and use a clamp. Here is the thing about hair shears.......If you don't get EVERYTHING coming together properly, they will not cut properly! You need to understand how to place shears on the wet stone in order to ensure the rideline is in proper and perfect alignment with the cutting place of the shear! You need to understand how grinding the outside edge moves the contact point along the rideline and over grinding can cause gouging into the shear hollow grind area. Some these actions can irreparable damage if you get the wrong combination. Often the sear set go out of whack because of improper sharpening on the outside edge. Simple answer is unless you consider you hair shears as throw away don't attempt it for now. The right tools make this job relatively easy. Using the wrong tools without training, is a recipe for sending items to the recycle bin.

[@l26wang]

@@toddbenko6701 Thanks for the thoughtful answer. The shears I have are more or less disposable. I have a stone progression for straight razors, so it seems like I'm well set up to at least give this a shot. Cliff shows here and I've seen from other videos that the rideline is worked on first, then the outside convex side. Why is this? Doesn't it make more sense to do the convex side first like you would for a single bevel Japanese knife?

[@toddbenko6701]

@@l26wang Doing rideline first defines the motion or cutting contact plane of the shear. It can help identify if there is a possible set issue with the blade that you need to investigate without first assessing the set. It will also show where there is more wear at the inside apex which you might address when sharpening the outside. If you do the outside first you may get a burr but the burr might not apex with the rideline when you do the rideline later. You don't want to keep widening the rideline just to apex the edge. The outside edge is where you want to remove steel to meet up with the rideline. If you try doing rideline second, you will try to chase the rideline to the outside convex which to totally affect the shear cutting ability and change the set. Then your in a bigger problem. Basically your working with the areas which have the least forgiveness first (rideline).

[@l26wang]

@@toddbenko6701 That makes perfect sense. I stated earlier that with Japanese single bevel knife like a yanagiba, the uraoshi (rideline equivalent) is sharpened last. That is incorrect upon reviewing more information. For a NEW knife you would sharpen the backside first to make sure the uraoshi is the proper shape (therefore blade is not warped). Subsequent sharpening, you would do the bevel side first, unless there is a geometry problem. The uraoshi side is the hardened steel. So the logic is exactly as you state: "sharpen the least forgiving side first". Thank you again!