Hand Planes For Woodworking - Types & Sizes

[@HeroOfTime303]

Just get the wooden ones and be patient with the learning curve. It just works better than the metal ones. Mr Chickadee's videos on planes are fantastic and I'm glad I went to him as a beginner. Saving me time and money. Get over people telling beginners they can't use wood planes or they can't free hand sharpen chisels and planes. You can! You can do it!

[@mattwood1977]

Couldn't agree more. I bought 2 old metal planes and after hours of frustration wasn't able to produce a decent shaving with either. So I decided to make my own wooden plane and it is an absolute joy to use and produces great results. Despite what all the big youtube woodworkers might have you believe, woodworking doesn't have to be complicated.

[@Mr_Rick]

I would welcome another KZbin channel dedicated to making hand planes. Go for it!👍

[@BarryinFredonia]

Rex Krueger has a video on making a wooden plane.

[@johnmadden6656]

As a beginner I would like to tell you that I hope you keep doing these videos. I really like watching Paul Sellers because he does such a good job of communicating why he is doing something to someone like me who doesn't already know why. I think from the few of your videos I have watched you do this at least as well. It's really helpful seeing similar subjects discussed from a different perspective. So keep up the good work!

[@kennethbezanson4266]

I love your tangents. They hold loads of wisdom from your experience. Thanks!

[@conradsmith9332]

I know that this video is very old, but I must say that this is one of the simplist most effective video of planes on the Internet. I must try getting a few of those little old wooden planes, they are just so cute and I like that they polish the wood as they go. Thanks.

[@merwinfamilyjohn]

Really enjoy the way you present common sense solutions. I hope you consider putting out videos more often.

[@ugaladh]

there are hundreds of guys out there doing woodworking and tool videos, some are easier to listen to than others, some are too opinionated to explain different sides of an issue. This is a good video giving different views of metal vs wood, easy to listen to. Earned a new subscriber, I look forward to checking out more of your videos.

[@StopGravity]

Thanks for posting this. I generally use Japanese planes (mostly because here in Japan, it's virtually impossible to find western planes) and have gotten quite used to the different style, but my most used plane is my old Stanley block plane. Your video has me thinking of looking to build some western style wooden planes. Or buy one, whichever comes first. Your video is very insightful into the differences and I learned quite a lot. As I do from many of your videos.

[@DaveBardin]

I have so enjoyed you thoughts and comments. You and I think along the same plane. No pun intended. Keep them coming. Well done and bravo.

[@TheEndlessVariables]

great video. very detailed and professional, I like that you don't speak with the expected "tutorial tone" you see on most DIY, woodworker channels. people try to hard to seem like they're on TV. this feels much more like a great cooking show. Nice work

[@ChrisRuby]

I'm really looking forward to the follow up video on restoring a wooden plane. So glad your putting out new videos again.

[@rickgatewood6442]

Thank you for sharing your experience! I am teaching myself hand tool woodworking as a hobby and it is nice to get guidance from someone with more day to day experience. I have mostly metal planes which I enjoy. I also have a wooden jack plane that is not really working as it should, but I still hope to learn how to use it.

[@TheEnglishWoodworker]

Cheers Rick, good to hear you're giving a wooden jack a try. Stick to softer timbers, preferably pine until you get a good feel and you'll soon be enjoying it.

[@robertchanclor2810]

Your professional lecture on this subject will be a godsend for many.thank you

[@cobberpete1]

You make me smile with your approach, I do enjoy it. As well as the restoration, maybe even show us how to make a jack plane. I have a spare iron so could put it to good use

[@thomwolfe7390]

I've patched wood planes to close the throat up a bit, as Jim Paulson mentioned, but I've also completely replaced the bottom for a few that were dear to me and I didn't want to replace them. I flatten the plane on a jointer, glue a new sole using the hardest wood I have lying about, then carefully chisel out a new throat from the top and coat the entire sole with super glue, which hardens it and helps preserve it. I'll finish it off by sanding with wet/dry paper on glass until it's completely flat.

[@coldblu357]

You have the best presentation, videography is excellent and well spoken. I'm just beginning to use my dads old Great Neck plane I found in his workshop. I want to start making wooden planes, you have inspired me. Thankyou.

[@markp6062]

Very insightful. Would love to see an updated edition to see how your views have changed.

[@LaurieSavage]

Thanks for this video, I just bought a long wooden jointer because I couldn't afford a metal one and this has been a good starter.

[@rodneytransier8847]

I just recently discovered your videos and am glad I did. I am new to woodworking and looking to soak up every piece of knowledge I can. You explain things very well and with an enjoyable accent as well. (Here in corn country in the U.S. you don't hear an English accent very much) Keep up the good work and I look forward to watching more of your videos!

[@Jarastlad]

It would be great to restore an old wooden plane. I bought myself a huge box of them and am strugling a bit about what I can do / should do to properly restore them. I'd also love to see a video showing how to properly use the different wooden planes. Thanks for the videos anyway !

[@DaveBardin]

Hmmmmmm..... This is such a deep subject. I say start with the metal plane that can handle most jobs.The #5 and then a little block plane. With those two you can do most any job. My first wooden plane was a coffin smother and I loved learning it. The lessons of the bed and the subtle adjustments let me do anything with any wooden bench plane. Then I went right to a skewed rabbit and almost committed suicide. That rabbit drove me beyond nuts. When I started this though I had my grandfather to help me. So much was by mouth and not written. Now we have good books and the internet. Thus I'm watching you. You sir do a fine job. Well done. Cheers..........

[@LegoMan-cz4mn]

Interesting going from a wooden coffin smoother to a skew rabbit block plane.. :) I just finished the functional restoration of a coffin smoother, it has a laminated blade and it looks very handmade I inlaid a piece of boxwood to close the mouth, sharpened the blade and flattened the sole Happy woodworking

[@DustySplinters]

Great intro, one of the topics for wood plane is also Irons with & without chip breakers aka Cap Irons. I have several without cap Irons and If you are planing good stock, and planing with the grain, I rarely see any tear out. Those planes are a great place for someone to start with a wood plane. It also gives you another topic and that is actually looking at timber selection before picking up tools.

[@TheEnglishWoodworker]

Thanks Dusty, I think the timber picking is a very valid subject, and I'll definitely go in to the cap irons when we do a video on setting up and using the wooden planes.

[@blackfender100]

The #3 also feels the best to me.I have a really nice old Hudson forge #3 love it

[@dominicmorgan259]

Dropping pure knowledge about planes

[@kevinetchells204]

I loved this. It was pampering to my carpentry geekdom and also reminding me of the League of gentlemen. Brilliant!

[@brianaustin2135]

I love that you have the stove going during the video 👍🏻

[@LegoMan-cz4mn]

After being bored with metal planes, I started with wooden planes, turned it from a turd into an ultra fine smoother with a mouth you can't see light through (I inlaid a piece of boxwood to close the mouth) but its working beautifully!

[@mikegraham7078]

A point to mention, perhaps, is that because the wooden planes have a much higher sole your hands are higher off the bench as you use them, so you might find that one kind or the other work better for you just because of the height of your bench. Old historical benches were sometimes very low, and they would be used with wooden planes and a planing board, which together could add four or five inches to the 'relative' height of the bench. For most people, trying to use a metal plane on a bench of that height, particularly without the planing board, would be something only their chiropractor would love.

[@MerlynCooper]

" a nat's nadger out" beautiful phrasing

[@codemannc704]

Great video! I really would like to see (2) plane restoration videos, one for metal and one for wooden.

[@MrAntny777]

A big thank you sir. I appreciate all of your videos, and your well established attention to details. Cheers!

[@tl3509]

Just came across your video and found your videos very informative and very well presented. Keep up the good job!

[@autoian]

As a beginner, simplifying the amount of #5 Stanley's would be a big help! I see you can get a new one with plastic handles, but many look for something older. I also see Craftsman, Record, Clifton, Juuma, I.Sorby, Woden, Preston. I'd have to admit it's a bit overwhelming...

[@ugaladh]

you can get replacement, nice, wood handles to fit those planes with plastic handles. I did that with my original Stanley Bailey #4 when I bought a #5 1/2 which was a getter all purpose plane. then I turned that old #4 into my scrub plane when I started getting better planes.

[@pcka12]

I have other planes but the Record No. 4 is I suppose part of my childhood and I always go back to it with the memories of the houses the family were renovating, the sound and smell of newly planed shavings of the wood they called ‘deal’ - European Redwood- so mine is maybe 70 years old and that dark blue, second is a Clifton No.3 - so heavy, dark green and with the stamped iron, bought new in a mad moment and never regretted, low angle block planes, well loved and handy, then there is that huge and accurate quansheng No. 8, it might be a ‘rip off’ but it is a bloody good plane for the money, I can peer at the Clifton equivalent through glass cases and buy the odd lottery ticket

[@lensrig]

Great video looking forward to your next one as I am just starting into woodwork and all good advice is welcomed Regards Len

[@wcndave]

I don't yet own any wooden bench planes, have about 12 metal ones, mostly from ebay, and can see that the restoration process would be easier on wooden, so would love to see that. Also wooden planes seem to be cheaper. Or rather, a cheap metal plane is often very very poor indeed and almost not worth the effort setting up. Glad to hear youre' going to be making more videos, also like the style!

[@IlyaGromov]

good video! very helpful... I had to watch like hundred videos on different planes - what they do, what the difference is and still - a lot of the things I only understood after actually working with different planes... I think this will help new woodworkers to at least understand the difference between wooden and metal planes a little better... There's not much to understand the difference in function (like what is a jointer, a jack or a smoother) but I hope you'll cover it in other videos... Great job! Really enjoy your videos

[@TheEnglishWoodworker]

Thanks Ilya, yep we've definitely got plans for covering the types of planes and where they fit in for various tasks.

[@IlyaGromov]

Great!! Looking forward to it!

[@TheSalMaris]

Great rant. I've just begun using wooden planes and want to now more. They are usually very reasonably priced, if you're wise, on eBay.

[@garyhendrick4391]

3:57 Gnats nadger, one of the lesser known imperial units equal to 0.0254mm

[@robertberger8642]

Thanks, I’ve definitely learned a thing or two!

[@nicolasdaverio843]

Thanx a lot richard, very enlightening. I'm a beginer myself but a have a few old wooden planes from my grandpa and they're not in wood shape. I found that some planes come with a "cierre de boca" which would roughly translate as mouth closure. It's a second wedge oposite to the main one that goes straight down to the sole and you can tap it once you've flaten the base. Have you heard of something like that?

[@mynameisHOPKIRK]

Nice one! Looking forward to your future video's on this subject as I have recently found my self getting swept up in the wonderful world of traditional woodworking and the use of hand tools, being skint was a large factor in this actually... and even if budget was not an issue I would still go the traditional route as opposed to the modern but damned expensive machinery with all their bells and whistles, plus they're loud and rowdy and make way too much mess...take up room too, which I just haven't got, my workshop is just a humble little old garage... so I much prefer the slow and easy old school approach (although there is nothing "easy" about it... there is a certain something about it... a bit like a peaceful zen like kind of vibe I guess...kind of meditative, focused and working in silence is how I find myself... and before you know it I've lost several hours, if not most of the day... anyway, it's hard to put my finger on it exactly, but I'm sure you know what I mean... and as I was fortunate enough to be given a few hand tools to get started most of which was useless and in need of hours/days of tlc (obviously they were rough as old guts) but I love my Bailey no5... which is a good thing as it is my one and only plane at the moment, I cleaned it up a little and he has been in use ever since I received the rusty dusty little blighter, he has a new lease of life now, which is something I love about old long forgotten hand tools... okay I'm rambling now so I'll stop... anyway more of your wisdom is welcomed with open arms... thanks for taking the time to share with us your experience and insight, peace. MORE VIDEO'S MAN!

[@robertfsautters1153]

Just bought a 13in. London-made panel plane, for $200 ,beautiful infill,thick iron and a great user!

[@TheJimsock]

I'll look forward to this. I've restored three metal planes and, yes, the task was indeed laborious but, rewarding nonetheless. The 5 turned out so well the owner only displays it along with the book I prepared chronicling the process. I've inherited a range of wooden planes that I'm scared to restore because I might damage them beyond repair and never be able to learn their use. They're well over 100 years old with jet black irons. (The Wedge of the Long Jointer is missing one of its tangs which I'll have to manufacture.) Your videos might give this novice the courage to take them on. Thanks.

[@jacobthellamer]

Great video! Cant wait to see a restore. Have you ever made a wooden plane from scratch?

[@jakobfolmar6604]

What's the first plane I should get for jointing? There's so many it's crazy.

[@bernienufc3166]

Genius, why are you not my neighbour, i am that billio :-D So now i take a step back and take on board what you have said, probably saved me a lot of grief, subscribed, cheers malc

[@ureasmith3049]

Excellent tips! Thanks, looking forward to more videos.

[@eddyflynn213]

thanks for sharing your vast knowledge Richard, i got a wooden skew plane in a tool collection on ebay i'd love to see you recondition/set up one of these .

[@CatherinePuce]

Interesting video but from comment from my father. The wooden plane are better for the long planes like the jointing plane. Metal jointing plane are just too heavy for his taste.

[@LolitasGarden]

Last year I bought a 26" wooden jack plane on ebay as my first plane. I tend to work with reclaimed lumber and I assumed bigger and stronger was better. The more I work with it, the better I get, however: My iron can tend to slip into the throat from where I set it. I tap the wedge in deeper, but fear when the tiny, delicate feet of the wedge come close to protruding through the mouth. Complete beginner. Love your channel. Does this sound familiar? Thanks!

[@LolitasGarden]

I should add that this plane is somewhat old (probably early 20th century), but in wonderful condition.

[@daw162]

Lolita's Garden Presume this is a single iron plane? You can trim the fingers of the wedge if it becomes a problem, and profile them however you'd like. just make sure you do it on a supported surface so that the fingers don't get splintered off and create a catch.

[@LolitasGarden]

David W I think it's a double iron. There's a wooden wedge and a cap iron that screws to the cutting iron. I also often find shavings catching between the legs of the wedge and cap iron. Thanks for the reply. I'm enjoying your videos.

[@daw162]

I've got one other suggestion that I didn't put up in a video yet. That is, I see you mentioned that your iron will continue to set itself deeper as you drive the wedge in. You can sand off (lightly) the surface of your cap iron where it sits against the wedge and you can wax it and the bottom of the wedge a little. You obviously don't want any wax on the fingers of the wedge where they contact the rest of the plane (wood to wood surfaces) and you don't want any on the bed of the plane because you want the bed to grip the iron well. Doing that should help the iron grip the bed of the plane more than the iron grips the wedge. If you still have grip issues, you can sand the back of the cutting iron where it contacts the plane bed, lightly is fine with fresh 100 grit paper, and put the direction of the scratches perpendicular to the bed so that the iron grips the bed a little better. Thanks for the nice comments about the videos. Your comment about working with the plane and it getting better and better is perfect. The more you work with a wooden plane, especially once you've got it fitted just so, the more it becomes reflexive and subtle.

[@LolitasGarden]

Thanks for the tips!

[@davidclark9086]

Very informative and well made video and some good comments. Thanks.

[@archiethreelegs]

Thanks for the video, I'm looking forward to you doing one about restoration as I've just got a job lot of very cheap wooden shoulder (rebate?) planes with a view to having a go at some time.

[@SebastiaanMollema]

Nice complete explaination! Very complete, i do enjoy my simple #4 stanley plane :p

[@vanopnt]

In the cupboard videos you use a low angle plane for _everything_, yet to never bring it up in other videos. Looks like it can shoot, smooth and take some width off. I know nothing about low-angle planes alas and would love if you talked about that one a little.

[@Snarlygraph]

Sheer class. Thanks Richard.

[@TheEnglishWoodworker]

Thanks Alan, been called a lot of things but never class!

[@nathankostelecky419]

How do you get that dark color on the wood planes? What is the finish?

[@jasonlangston5659]

What are your thoughts on the Krenov style wooden planes? I have been thinking of building one, because I like making my own tools. Enjoy the video!

[@knightlylad]

One thing you didn't mention is that hand planes are excrutiatingly addictive, once you start there is no end in sight, a nightmare! Hence my subscription, thank you.

[@paz2263]

I love a good rant.

[@Bloodsweatsawdust]

As if I didn't already have enough planes. Now, you've convinced me to build a wooden smoother. :-)

[@francisbarnett]

You say rant but i say quality. I only use three planes while on site, the workshop stuff is very interesting though.

[@riskmandel1]

Great vid! But can you talk about how you get the most bang for your buck when you're starting out and on a budget? I think one of the confusing things for a hand tool beginner is not knowing what to buy first (with an understanding that it will take a while to assemble a full kit). And where to scrimp and where to splurge. It gets maddening because every project i look at seems like it will require a half dozen tools i don't have. I'm not really concerned about speed since this is a hobby. But I do want accuracy and a good (not frustrating) experience. If you had, say, $500-$1000 and you were starting out, what specifically would you buy to build furniture? (Keeping in mind that one might not yet process the skills and restoration tools necessary to bring a forgotten oldie back to life.)

[@vincentrolfe1384]

Is 1/8" or more enough distance from the lead cutting edge-iron of the #5 jack to the chip breaker enough to prevent accordion folding of the chips? What is normal distance with a higher pitch on the iron? Thanks

[@mikegraham7078]

I notice that there is no mention of re-soling a wooden plane. I realize it's not a 20 minute fix, but it would save relegating a wooden plane to the 'only for easy timber' shelf. Maybe some mention in a future video on tuning up wooden planes?

[@07roadking43]

Id love to see a video of someone replacing the sole of a smoothing plane at the moment ive just finished gluing a pc of rosewood on the sole of my horned smoother it was missing half of it evey things is glued up ready to cut a new mouth im just a bit sketchy on doing it correctly any help would be greatly appreciated !!!!!!

[@pfswalter]

I have question I have acquired a wooden plane in smoothing plane style but it have a curved bottom from front to back think it might be for barrel make but if you could shed some light on this. Cheers Walter Matthews

[@ImprovisedSurvival]

This is my first video I have watched from your channel and I really appreciate the knowledge you are passing along here. Liked and Subscribed. One thing has me curious, why didn't you mention any of the Japanese style wood planes that are pulled instead of pushed? I'm not new to woodworking, but started with power tools and got spoiled. Now all my power gear is in storage and I have been starting to use hand tools due to my lack of work space available. I have a few cheap metal planes that I am just starting to get comfortable with, but keep viewing those "Senkichi Kanna" hand planes on Amazon. I am also not working with quality wood, I have been hijacking old oak pallets. Another reason why I have not invested in expensive planes yet, don't want to chip a blade or gouge a surface. Thanks from Chicago!

[@colmhain]

I've watched several of your videos in a row, in no particular order, and I don't remember which one gave me the idea that you do NOT recommend a single iron wooden plane for smoothing?

[@453421abcdefg12345]

I seems to me that one of the big shortcomings of the iron smoother is the skinny iron (blade) they flap about and give a terrible finish of fancy grain wood, I understand they were developed for use with straight grained plain woods that were used in America, whereas we in England were used to more fancy grain exotic wood so developed the Norris style planes with a much heavier iron, I make Norris style planes in Gunmetal, and use old jointer irons ground flat, they work very well and give a good finish on the curliest of grains.

[@TheEnglishWoodworker]

I would love to see your planes! Some great points with the skinny blades.

[@oberlater]

your thoughts on infill planes? or Japanese planes if you're familiar with them?

[@DavidKirtley]

***** Nobody says you have to hold the plane a certain way. Turn your plane around :) Seriously though, there is nothing magical about planes. They are a jig for holding a sharpened iron. The moisture changes are seasonal and not something that really affects daily use. As long as you are not getting one of the super special japanese planes, they are not expensive and work fine. You can get them or similar at most of the woodworking supply stores. The real freedom comes when you start making your own planes. Pick up a kit like Ron Hock sells for your first one then you can just get more irons and make them to suit whatever you want them for.

[@DavidKirtley]

***** That is the good kind of magic. Another option is the wooden plane with adjusters. E.C. Emmerich makes some really nice ones. They are easier to plane from multiple directions. That said, once you get used to it, adjusting a wedged iron is quick and easy. Something that you do without really even thinking about it.

[@shonuffisthemaster]

great video. you do a good job of explaining the pros and cons. do you have any suggestions on planes for kids or getting kids into woodworking in general? I am trying to get my nephew onto hand tool woodworking, and he is verry intrested but we have run into a problem with the size of most tools. he is 8 and theres no denying most adult sized planes are too big for him to use strength wise. I have him on a shallow set generic #3 right now and thats ok but dosent fit him perfecrt I also have a cheap stanley 60 1/2 (the crappy contractor grade one, got it for a few $ in a set) which is also ok but not great. i was considering making a wooden smoothing plane that would fit him, but also dont want to get him.into something that might be too frustrating to learn in the begenning. I wish #1's or even #2's were more common and didnt cost an arm and a leg!

[@mypony891]

Would you know where I could go to find out the type of plane I found. It looks like a long wood plane that has an adjuster in it like a metal plane.

[@mcameron3ify]

Sounds like a transitional plane

[@jacobformosa9067]

anyone know about blosta tool i found an old toothed plane with blosta and 45 marking.

[@daw162]

The mouth opening of the plane should be of little consequence if you're using a double iron. If you're not using a double iron, you should be. that sound dictatorial or dogmatic, but the same case is what I said below - you can do no or low tearout work with less physical effort using a double iron plane at common pitch and have better overall tearout control than a single iron plane bedded at 55 degrees.

[@markharris5771]

Please may I ask 55° the usual bed with a double iron? I’ve just bought a wooden Jack plane off eBay for £5.83 including post. There is a triangular repair next to the mouth and a couple of small cracks. I was wondering if I should re-glue the original repair and use a bit of epoxy or re-sole the plane. Then flatten the bottom etc. It looks like it was originally made with a different colour sole, possibly ash, but I’d have to cut the mouth through and I was wondering what angle I needed to work at. Of course I will measure the angle and creep up on it. This is my first large wooden plane and I think my £5.83 will teach me a lot. Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

[@robertbrunston5406]

Thanks for the info. 🙂

[@BakerVS]

Have you ever compared with German style planes? They never really switched to metal planes, and still make high quality wooden planes (Ulmia, ECE for example).

[@grumpyoldsodinacellar4065]

I've got a couple of old wooden plane's, I think I've been neglecting them far too long in favour of my cast iron.

[@daw162]

You owe it to yourself to make a long double iron plane (for flattening benches) out of wood. Or find one. My try planes are about 7 1/2 pounds (and I put linseed oil through them end to end if they come up short of that), and the jointer that I've made is 10, so there is no lack of weight with them, but they feel much lighter in the cut and you can flatten large objects with them faster than the LN, which leaves you stopping to wax every several dozen strokes (or tire yourself out from lack of doing that).

[@TheEnglishWoodworker]

Thanks David, that's a very valid suggestion. I've used a variety of planes for top flattening but soon concluded that the Lie Nielsen was the one to stick with. My reasons for this are numerous and some very personal that would not necessarily have any relevance to other woodworkers, but I'll try to go in to them in a video at some point. Your linseed filled try planes sound beautiful! Linseed + wooden plane = happy man!

[@daw162]

The English Woodworker Well, we've arrived at opposite points, but that's why there are some times of everything available, I guess. I started with an LN 7 and 8, sold the 8 and though I sure had the right thing with the 7, that I couldn't do as accurate of work with a wooden plane. It turned out to be difficult to find a very good long try plane here in the states, and when I found one, it came from england (griffiths), and encouraged me to build my own planes to come up with a plane with as much authority as the LNs but that would do it without the friction. So the linseed oil is just to get any planes that aren't dense enough up to a good weight for a 2 1/2 wide iron. A trick courtesy of George Wilson, who was toolmaker at a very productive museum here in the states. Trouble with the wooden planes for most is that tuning them properly almost requires knowing how to build them, but the learning is well rewarded. And I agree, the 2 pound coffin smoothers are going to be vexing for most beginners, double or single irons. There aren't many good instructions out there for troubleshooting them properly, I guess because there aren't many people building double iron planes or even single. Look forward to more videos, not sure how I missed your channel on here.

[@453421abcdefg12345]

David W You are spot on with your statement about adjusting planes, back a long time ago when a Carpenter served an apprenticeship a person was encouraged to make his tools, that included a Plane, this gives one a much better understanding (and appreciation) , of the tools we use, with todays ease of obtaining tools they are sometimes taken for granted.

[@ronstark1927]

my question is simple but never get a good answer how to set up a metal plane say a number 4 is it bevel up or bevel down ?

[@bob-rv7pt]

Both are correct depending on the type of plane and its use. Shortest answer, low angle planes are usually bevel up and higher angle planes (and those with fixed bedding) are usually bevel down. There's a lot of info out there. Hope that helps.

[@jimbo2629]

My favourite plane is wooden with a cow horn shaped front handle. It has no cap iron, no adjusters, no tote. The throat is wide open. It’s easy to adjust with a hammer. I don’t know why it is so superior. Maybe it’s the type of steel in the iron. The sole is not flat! In front of the blade it is a bit worn away. I am loath to flatten it. It cost me £15.

[@scottbrown3444]

thanks

[@andrewgarratt5191]

I’m very shocked you don’t have a transitional plane 🙂 a lot of people talk crap about them...but I think they are great.

[@zentex99]

awesome

[@Kikilang60]

What about wooden planes that are built like a metal plane. I have a plane that has a wooden body, but a metal inset that Iron, and it adjust like a metal plane.

[@ronin4711]

I hate to give thumb down just because I didn't like the episode but, I have to say that I'm more confused now than before watching this. From personal experience, to start woodworking with a set of wooden planes is very daunting because their setting is so limited, like you said for a specific task and not multi tasking like a Stanley #4 that you can change it on a whim. I'm an avid Paul Sellers fan for all his work and postings on KZbin. Mr. Sellers with his vast experience, uses a #4 or a #4.5 Stanley style plane and throughout all his videos the biggest plane he used was a #5 Stanley, even when he build a workbench in 12 episodes, to our amazement, there was no Jointer plane used. I can see the "romance" of using a wooden plane, I even own 2 European and 2 Japanese which I find them equally difficult to adjust, I just don't trust myself using them on "any" serious work of mine, don't have the necessary training and the patience to learn it (I'm too old for this). I thank you for keeping our interest in them (wooden planes, of course). Best.

[@BolasDear]

that screeching sound it killed my rabbits.

[@DavidKirtley]

There are a few points that are from the wrong perspective. Most planes were not for fine cabinetmaking. The vast majority were for general carpentry. They saw rough use and the metal planes were much better suited. They were also more easily adapted to mass production by unskilled workers. A foundry could cast them by the hundreds. Then when highly figured exotic woods became available, the very fine adjusters and really tight mouths were needed and the cabinetmakers moved to the metal planes as well. Then as dimensional lumber became available planes were relegated to just finishing work rather than general purpose stock processing.

[@deezynar]

The greatest pieces of furniture ever made are left rough from the jack plane on the inside. I say that to point out that the difference between "general carpentry" and "fine cabinet making" is nothing but a few passes with a smoothing plane. Also, just because S4S is available today doesn't mean that hand planes still don't have a place in todays shop. A jack plane will quickly, and quietly, bring the width of a board down an 1/8". A smoothing plane will remove the waves from the face of a board that's left by the planer. And, in most cases, the surface created by the smoothing plane looks far better than that left by sanding.

[@DavidKirtley]

deezynar You missed the point. It's not that cabinet makers used and always will use hand planes. Where the dimensional lumber made a difference was in general carpentry like building houses, barns, fences, and just about everything else made of wood. Planes used to be as important in those areas as a saw and hammer. That is why there were so many made. Just about every household had one or two, not just the cabinetmakers. That's why hand planes are so expensive now. They don't have the volume to give us the advantages of economy of scale.

[@TheEnglishWoodworker]

David Kirtley This is a very good subject, particularly if we were in a pub to have a good old chat. In the video most of my comments are either an insight in to what I find works for my work personally, or what I feel woodworker's would find relevant to their workshop's today with the tools we have available.

[@deezynar]

David Kirtley Your point about some planes being just for general carpentry is off base. All work starts out rough, and rough tools are used at the beginning of the finest work. None of my tools are "relegated", they are all constantly used. Your version of history may be true in your experience, but it's not the truth everywhere. If you noticed, hand planes are being made in large numbers today. If they are not as ubiquitous as they once were, it has more to with the high number of woodworkers who have substituted power sanders for planes. Many haven't learned to sharpen a plane, and/or don't understand their usefulness.

[@DavidKirtley]

deezynar It's not *my* version of history. Up to the industrial revolution and the Bessemer process in 1850's which made steel cheaply, just about everything was made from wood. Wood was mostly riven or hewn into planks. Bench style and specialized planes were in existence for many crafts from coopers to millwrights to wheelwrights to shipwrights and many other crafts. Planes were integral to almost everything made. Mouldings and sashwork were done on site and not brought in from industrial production. That is why the market was so important that the toolmakers were falling over each other trying to capture the market. As far as planes being made in large numbers today, it is getting better but up until Lie-Nielson and Veritas started up making quality planes to fill the void, they were almost totally wiped out of production. The older giants of production, Stanley in the US and Record in the UK were the last ones standing and were making lousy imitations of their previous products. Groz and Clifton were still making a few as well but were about the same quality as is coming in from Anant and such today.

[@Gerry-xm7iu]

Planes trains and automobiles

[@ZulhamS]

my uncle always use hand made planer

[@yasarmevlut8376]

Темно в мастерской нет выразительности

[@TobIas-or9dj]

Thanks for this great video... I jut love my wooden planes. Maybe it’s because I am german and we have used wooden planes for hundreds of years, maybe cause I don’t want to use the planes from the colonials haha 😂. Just joking.

[@HeroOfTime303]

From an American: wooden planes are better! Thanks!

[@07roadking43]

P/S great videos I probably should have left it alone but the mouth was way to big to do any work with and id love to get this old girl back in proper working order !!