Hand-Sewn Milanese Buttonhole + A discussion on "Quiet luxury"

Hello friends! In today's video, I am explaining the intricate Milanese Buttonhole. This is an absolutely beautiful way to finish buttonholes that some may even consider absurd. I have seen all over the internet, the quiet luxury trend of people trying to mimic the effect. However, there are so many components that go into it that people may not realize. A Milanese buttonhole is a perfect example of the "hidden" communication behind quiet luxury that looks so good to the eye, but that can't quite be replicated without an abundance of luxury. I hope you find this tutorial useful and find this discussion interesting. Please let me know your thoughts in the comments, I am opening up the floor!
Music:
Bossa Antigua by Kevin MacLeod
Link: incompetech.filmmusic.io/song...
License: creativecommons.org/licenses/b...

[@RandomalinaLF]

Wow that buttonhole is absolutely gorgeous. Though I’m way too lazy to ever try that lol. This discussion was really interesting. As a consumer, it’s so frustrating because you are 100% correct in that there isn’t much of a difference in quality between clothes that are $20 and $200. I have tried investing in staple pieces, only for them to pill after 2 wears and have the same fabric composition as cheap items. At this point, thrift stores are the only attainable option left to buy some quality pieces and they’re slowly filling up with more and more fast fashion.

[@tishie42]

Its also frustrating to watch influencer people thrift the great fabric and quilts and destroy them..😢

[@elizarock655]

Thrift stores have more textiles than they can sell, better for influencers to buy than to be dumped on poorer countries landfills.

[@semmons123]

As far as I know, some charity shops here in the UK are starting to reject the cheapest fast fashion as the quality is too poor to resell. So off to landfill they go…

[@ClaudiaArnold]

​​@@tishie42 Aaarrrgh, sometimes I had murder on my mind 😡🤬🤬 ! Handmade quilts cut up to make a lousy, floppy, disfunctional coat that will only be worn once for the reveal.

[@BeachPeach2010]

Your comments on Quiet Luxury are in line with what my mother always told me... invest in Good Quality, Classic pieces! Timeless stuff. Take care of them and they'll take care of you. 💕

[@DowntownTailoring]

🥰🥰🥰

[@SBVancouver]

I remember when I was in high school I had to learn how to do a buttonhole like the one you just did. I think it used to be more common. We always had to use a gimp. This takes me back. My niece is now taking sewing in high school and they don’t teach any of this. You are absolutely correct. No one appreciates the time and effort it takes to make beautiful things. It’s a skill that is being slowly lost. My mom still has skirts her seamstress made for her in the 80’s. The fabric quality could never be matched now and if you look inside at the sewing you can see the amazing techniques that were used back in the day. There is an expression in Italian that says he who spends less spends more. You often need to replace the stuff you buy when you cheap out.

[@DowntownTailoring]

Of course! We say in Spanish: “Cheap things become expensive”. Although I have to recognize that in today’s world just a few things are made with quality. Cheers 🥰

[@makingitthrough190]

Quality clothing used to be known as “clothing”. In the 60s as a child my Mum bought me a camel coat. It was just an “ordinary” coat. Today the same quality of camel coat costs around UK £750. My mother grew up in the 30s as the youngest of 3 girls she received 3 red coats as one by one they got handed down to her. They were all wearable because the quality was in the construction and fabric was almost indestructible. Many “good” brands have reduced the quality of their products. On the surface they kind of look similar but for example what used to be full hide leather is often two thinner leathers bonded together. Some have termed this “shrinkification”!

[@DowntownTailoring]

Yes! Exactly this. Today is pretty much impossible to get good quality garments.

[@joyc6945]

Agreed! Years ago I read "Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion" by Elizabeth Cline. She explained the thinking behind this trend about ten years ago. I knew something was happening because my grandmother was a seamstress and she would point out that what I was being taught in some places like Singer the instructors weren't teaching French seams or other alternatives to make the outfit look beautiful inside and out. I do like to go to thrift stores to purchase beautifully sewn outfits. Some of the thrift stores in Europe have gems! Thank you for this video!

[@DowntownTailoring]

Thanks so much for your comment. I agree, it seems nowadays the clothes aren't that well finished. Cheers

[@ClaudiaArnold]

There is also a very eye-opening video by Evelyn from the Vintage Sewing School, where she tries to spruce up a fast fashion blazer with some ironing here and some restitching there. The sad thing is that despite all her efforts that blazer has no substance at all and will obviously revert to its feckless bubbly state after one wear.

[@katechiconi]

Quality matters, but also taking care of your clothes, repairing and keeping them properly. I have garments and accessories I bought 30 or 40 years ago. Not necessarily expensive, but good, and I looked after them. I have a silk scarf of my mother's which is 70 years old. I repair things carefully and promptly, and they last. Everyone should learn to repair their clothes.

[@abigailpip112]

I repair my clothes too. Have a few lovely things that I wouldn't part with. Fast fashion goes with fast food that makes people gain weight quickly then they need to buy new clothes

[@DowntownTailoring]

Yes! Taking care of our clothes is fundamental too. I should point out that part too. Thanks for sharing! 🥰

[@mone1648]

I can always learn so much here. And I really like your patient ways to explain your knowledge 🙏🏼🙂

[@DowntownTailoring]

Thanks so much 💕 You are so kind!

[@drkatel]

Every summer I’m still wearing a pair of denim shorts I purchased in 1989. I’ve never had to repair a thing. I machine wash them on regular and dry them in the dryer. No holes. No broken belt loops, zipper or buttons.

[@DowntownTailoring]

That is awesome, and it doesn't surprise me! Thanks for sharing 😊

[@larainelonginetti183]

You do beautiful work and I love watching you!

[@GG-ud1ib]

I still have clothing I purchased in the 1980's. I bounce from size 7 to 9, and have always purchased things I like and most are timeless items. My everyday and lounge clothes I spend less on.

[@DowntownTailoring]

Yes, me too! 🥰🥰🥰

[@gmurray3616]

Buttonhole is beautiful. I would definitely give it a try.

[@ilkethewordpeople43]

Excellent work and great food for thought!

[@DowntownTailoring]

Thank you kindly!

[@christinegooddy1573]

Wow! Thanks so much for sharing, amazing girl! 🙏❤️🤩

[@DowntownTailoring]

Thank you! Glad to help! ❤️

[@IMOO1896]

Lovely, and I always love your narrative

[@DowntownTailoring]

I'm so glad! Thank you kindly 🥰

[@worrywort27]

Love the handiwork, totally beautiful!!

[@DowntownTailoring]

Thank you! 😊

[@manuellebron3404]

Nice job! Thought provoking...

[@DowntownTailoring]

Thanks! 🥰

[@Dontboxmein7]

Fascinating!

[@DowntownTailoring]

Thanks ☺️

[@antoniokinsey4041]

You were a pleasure to listen to. Thanks

[@DowntownTailoring]

Thank you so much!

[@lyndseyrabon8737]

I would love to see more videos on quiet luxury!

[@DowntownTailoring]

We will make more! 🥰

[@Hiker_who_Sews]

Truth is, I'll never make a buttonhole like that, but I admire those who do make them.

[@DowntownTailoring]

😅😅😅

[@abigailpip112]

Its also good to see a different technique that could be useful on other fabrics

[@lissataylor12345]

Wow, beautiful.❤

[@DowntownTailoring]

Thank you! 😊

[@tambriggs]

Love the demonstration! I'd missed you

[@mcomeslast]

Thank you!

[@DowntownTailoring]

Thanks ☺️

[@mysettingsmysettings2997]

Fantastic

[@DowntownTailoring]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@candicewaller403]

Interesting tutorial and discussion. I think I still prefer a buttonhole stitch to this method of handsewn buttonhole (button hole stitch looks like a tiny blanket stitch). I wonder how it would look to incorporate a gimp thread into that type of buttonhole...

[@DowntownTailoring]

Yes. It's possible to incorporate the gimp and I feel it looks pretty good. Cheers ☺️

[@catofthecastle1681]

Gimp is getting harder to find in any color but black, white, grey and brown! And she is doing a buttonhole stitch! Watch her wrap the loop around the work!

[@genier7829]

Beautiful work! I worked at a fabric store in the early 90s and we had fabric that I could not afford even with an employee discount. I did buy the special deals the owners got from design studios that were left over end of season, very nice and less expensive, but no longer found in the USA since manufacturing has moved offshore.

[@DowntownTailoring]

Thank you so much! It’s hard to imagine that happening nowadays.

[@madeleineschwarrtz7433]

Amazing, once again!! Do you always use silk thread over the gimp..no matter what yhe suit coar is made from? I need to order both silk and gimp!!! Thank you ever so much!!!❤😅

[@abigailpip112]

I'm not sure that my hand stitching is good enough to make a buttonhole that way. I have hand stitched them many times but with "variable" results 😮 You are totally correct about the garments and fabric on sale these days. It's difficult to get good quality fabric to work with and most "off the peg" garments are made badly from poor quality fabric. I don't know why. This seems to have happened quite quickly, since covid maybe, although I don't think the two things are linked except that an opportunity was provided when people didn't go to shops but bought on-line. I hope to be able to make my own "body" soon and then take your pattern making course. After that it's no more shop or online garments for me. I'll be wearing home sewn!

[@DowntownTailoring]

Agreed! This turned around came out very quickly. Cheers ☺️

[@TWMAC2011]

Wow! Luxury, yes, practical and strong, absolutely. What is the name of the thick thread/wrapped cord you used on the perimeter of the button hole? Thank you.

[@DowntownTailoring]

Thanks so much! The cord I used is called Gimp thread. Cheers 🥰

[@abigailpip112]

I wouldn't have said they are awful/dreadful but I did prefer the others. Its a matter of choice/style and obviously what the customer requested

[@Nancy_S68]

Your discussion was really interesting. I like that you are talking about the differences in what you could buy 20 or 30 years ago and how the clothing industry is today. I like to learn tailoring skills so I liked learning about the button hole. I don’t think it looks pretty, I prefer flat button holes. Maybe the Milanese button hole is for more rugged use clothing like over coats or outdoor fishing/hunting/camping clothes.

[@DowntownTailoring]

I understand your point. Cheers! 🥰

[@jayneterry8701]

I do like making handworked buttonholes but dont get the chance too often. Tyfs ❤

[@DowntownTailoring]

🥰🥰🥰

[@janeahrens572]

I would try that. Maybe you can put me on fast forward like I did you on this cha!😆

[@ottie1954]

I use tweezers as a help to remove little pieces of thread

[@janeahrens572]

I agree about quality, but most can’t afford it. Plus if you’re a working mom, you’re going to have to clean or get it cleaned pretty often and that’s hard on clothes.

[@DowntownTailoring]

Absolutely! I mentioned in the video that it’s not people’s fault at all., there isn’t even much difference between between clothing that costs $20 and $200! It’s impossible to keep up with the expectations these days.

[@anitaswart.]

I went to school in the late 1960s. We were fortunate in that we were taught good techniques and I used them. Thank you for your beautiful button hole. What worries me is that what is demonstrated on TV in the UK, is poor quality. I don't even follow them. In the olden days when clothes were manufactured in the UK, the clothes were made of a higher standard. Now you need to be okay with even panties in John Lewis, made in China.

[@marymagdalene3004]

Lots of work, but for me, would not be worth the time for the result I would get. I actually think it would have been better- looking without that corded thread sewn around the perimeter of the buttonhole which made it look too stiff. Just my opinion.

[@DowntownTailoring]

A regular buttonhole! Cheers 😊

[@jaywholoveseveryone1721]

*spoiler alert* _he was_ 😂 I never doubted that your customer would be anything BUT. I enjoyed the message and the lesson. ❤ _I learned a new skill, too_

[@DowntownTailoring]

Thanks so much! You are so kind. I love your fonts 🥰

[@jaywholoveseveryone1721]

@@DowntownTailoring ❤ _thank you_

[@rhondacrosswhite8048]

I think you deserve to have clothing that you spent $200./yd for. Not everything in your wardrobe but maybe a skirt and jacket in a timeless style. You will feel special when you wear it (which won't be often) and you will stand straighter, have more confidence and everyone who sees you in that ensemble will note that this is an important woman-just look at how she dresses. I have dresses that I bought as a young woman in the 1970's. I hand wash them and they still look great. They fit too since they are wrap dresses. Every now and again I will splurge on expensive Italian woollens but at my age now, I have no place to wear them. I'm now 67 years old but you are not. Splurge on one or two luxurious pieces and enjoy them for me.

[@DowntownTailoring]

This is a great point! Thanks for sharing 🥰

[@elementgypsy]

I used to pay 40 us for leather shoes, shiet boots. Now its all "vegan" leather. Lol. Plastic. Really hard to find leather shoes. They are expensive and not comfortable. I hate fast fashion so i have very few clothes. I have been making things and saving for quality pants, shirts . Going to check out consignment shops. Yes, if the fabric is 20 a yard, and 3 days to make a fine shirt, not many will pay $400 for it if you are not a designer. Beautiful button hole!

[@DowntownTailoring]

Agreed! Thanks for sharing ☺️

[@ClaudiaArnold]

I started to sew in the early 70s to be able to have clothes I otherwise would not have been able to afford. Today, on the other hand, scenes like the following happen: Me, presenting a new striped and gathered linen jersey shirt which I am very proud of - matching stripes, gathers of almost Victorian regularity, handstitched trims, the whole shebang. Generation Z sees only a t-shirt: "Why do you spend so much money and effort for something you could buy for 5 € at H&M?" Me: "This is absolutely not the same as the stuff at H&M!" GeZ: "Yes it is..."

[@DowntownTailoring]

I feel you! 💐💐💐

[@karinsuden7700]

A lot of Gen Z I know is very interested in handmades, slow fashion etc. My daughters nearly only shop second hand, one of them spins her own wool, and knits it, and there are a lot like them. I do agree however, that it is frustrating not to be able to find reliably good quality items for a fair price- whether I spend 10 or 80 € for a shirt, it often is hit and miss with the quality. I sew a lot myself and with that knowledge, am able to be a bit more discerning as a customer, but not always, unfortunately.

[@jaytillman4978]

Hello, I tried to send you an email but I’m not sure if I had the right email address. I am in Texas, USA and I wanted to know if I can send you ship you some suit jackets I have for you to sew the Milanese buttonhole on them. I can pay digitally. Please let me know if this is possible. No one here in Texas can do it. Thank you, and I hope to speak with you soon.

[@DowntownTailoring]

Hi! Sending jackets back and forth isn't very secure. I wouldn't risk it. So sorry about that, I wish I were in the States.

[@joyfuljoy5711]

🔘🪡🪡🪡🥰🥰

[@DowntownTailoring]

🥰🥰🥰

[@heatherhd98]

wow pumpkin. You are a GREAT, GREAT TAILOR. but I don't like this buttonhole.

[@DowntownTailoring]

Ha ha! It’s ok. Thanks 🥰🥰🥰

[@Liz-lr1ch]

Is it just me, but those buttonholes are awful, much worse than the originals which were very neat. They are dreadful

[@DowntownTailoring]

We all have different tastes! It’s normal. Cheers 🥰

[@karinjcollstrup7360]

I guess you do not apreciate aquiered luxury... The first one was very obvierce machinemade, the second one handmade - the devil is in the detail!