Handsaw Comparisons | Paul Sellers

Paul compares a few saws and suggests an affordable option that is widely available.
For more information on these topics, see paulsellers.com or woodworkingmas...

[@katiedotson704]

A hint for those like me that get lost easily. I would mark all the valleys with a permanent marker before I started sharpening. As you sharpen the black mark is removed and you know where you left off.

[@Paul.Sellers]

+Katie Dotson (K8-T) You don't really need it if you remember the adage, sharpen the back of the tooth leaning away from you.

[@drumboarder1]

@@Paul.Sellers you seem to forget that I'm retarded

[@bradbury1971]

After watching this video last year I bought one of the S&J saws. I didn’t sharpen it or change the set - it works pretty well for both rip and crosscut. I rarely need a perfect crosscut if I’m using a panel saw anyway and it works great at rip. I did use some acetone to remove that varnish - it goes through the wood way easier now.

[@1959Berre]

Paul, you have the gift of being able to explain calmly and clearly complicated things. It is so nice to listen to your narrative. I would like to know how you feel about modern saws with 'hardened" (blue) teeth. Can they be sharpened or should they be tossed on the scrap heap once they are dull?

[@chriskautz661]

Thankyou for taking the time to make those oversized visual aids. I now clearly understand the difference between the crosscut and rip tooth pattern. Thanks for the effort involved, this novice appreciates it!!!

[@charlesunchuan6267]

I’ve been searching for a rip cut saw for a long time with no success. Thank you so much for sharing this.

[@stevebettany8778]

I've just filed an old S and J following this video and am over the moon with the result. It's a good feeling to know I'm not forced to buy a new saw every time many thanks.

[@tompennell5615]

Your commitment to helping me so much in woodworking is awesome

[@TobiPHartmann]

Thank you Paul I ordered the spear&jackson yesterday and today i found this Video Iam Happy to see that my decision wasnt bad Greats from Germany

[@Solid_Jackson]

Have the echo what others have said, you make filing a hand saw interesting Just years of experience being explained wonderfully Thank you

[@haloterra]

Paul! You have saved me during difficult times with your videos! Please keep up the good work and the love for the craft! best regards.

[@RudyMogavero]

Paul, I've got to hand it to you. Don't know anyone else who could make filing a saw blade interesting enough to watch the whole thing. And find it interesting. Hats off. As they say here in Texas.

[@oscarortegarey635]

Very grateful, sir. It is always a pleasure to learn from you. It is definitely a privilege to have your knowledge. A greeting from Barcelona, Mr. Sellers.

[@Mr_Rick]

I learn more from you then anyone else. Thank you sir. You're a pleasure to watch.

[@cerberus2881]

I never had a handle on the difference between Cross and Rip before this video. Subscribed.

[@blackswanprepping8827]

Interesting video Paul, thanks for sharing!

[@drthunder8827]

Bert de Weert I was actually just wondering why your videos aren't longer like these

[@apinakapinastorba]

In the local hardware stores around here, the rip cut saw is totally absent. Everybody concentrates on selling throw-away junk for sawing two-by-fours with nails and concrete in them for house construction. Getting a quality tool is hard, it's either from online or second hand.

[@hankrearden20]

apinakapinastorba But that is why I love these videos, and feel that they are so vital for the continuation of the tradtion. Paul is showing you how to convert a run of the mill commercial saw to whatever you need or want. When I worked in construction as a framer, I always heard this old saw "Be smarter than the wood", or something similar; and what he is teaching is something that I'm lacking. The knowhow to overcome our modern day commercial driven carbon copy drek. Which makes me wonder if he has made any of his own saws in his youth?

[@andrewcady9443]

The rip saws will be found, in circular form, 10" diameter.

[@whitacrebespoke]

Not knowing where you are in the world it’s difficult to advise but look out these spear and Jackson ones. If not look at Flynn and garlick saws from Sheffield or bad axe tool works. Avoid these lie Neilson saws they are not what they want you to think they are far far to thin and wander in the cut

[@VestigialHead]

@@whitacrebespoke Interesting about the Lie Nielsons. I always linked them with quality - their marketing is good. Is it just their saws to avoid or is all their gear a bit Meh?

[@whitacrebespoke]

Kutulue mostly just the saws the plates are far far to thin they say it will follow its own line and it’s operator error it it won’t cut straight. I brought a back saw and took it back as every time it will follow the grain and the plate bends to follow. The planes are good quality. Although I don’t like the dovetail marker much either

[@briancantin271]

I was looking for a sharpen-able saw and saw the S&J which seemed to fit the bill but I wanted to be sure before I actually ordered it since I couldn't see it in person first. This video cemented my decision, I've bought just one for now and will use it as it comes and then at a later date I'll buy a 2nd one and do the rip modifications. Sounds like it's a solid tool that I'll be using for a long time. Thanks for the great video, as always!

[@terrorfirma2764]

Great video Paul. Just the sort of advice novice woodworkers need. Me, being from Sheffield, find it a bit sad that the Spear and Jackson saw was made in Taiwan, but such is the way of the world now. It would be nice to see a similar video comparing back saws.

[@agungsuherman9515]

spear & jackson very good hand saw, but stanley fatmax is the best forever 👍

[@jaguarsrevenge]

Paul, love the videos! I have only sharpened a handful of saws in my lifetime but I feel compelled to offer a tip to a veteran such as yourself only in the hope it may be of use. If you get an old magic marker and run it down the top edge of the teeth lightly you should never miss a tooth again for rip cuts. For crosscuts, as the teeth are set first to one side and then the other, you can mark every other tooth by running marker down the side touching only the back of the teeth set on that side. Repeat on other side and it will mark the teeth set opposite. Thanks for sharing!

[@ThGoSies]

Thank you, Paul! This is a lesson to be learnt by me. Essential basics to coping with handsaws.

[@chriss4613]

just when I think I couldn't learn something from one of your videos, you throw in a jem of wisdom! thank you sir and I'll be waiting for the next one!

[@thomashanson6607]

Three cheers for the Saw Whisperer. I suppose the 5 dislikes are people who have an overstock of hand made saws.

[@tonyy5482]

:D And envious, competing, woodworking video makers perhaps?

[@jshamis]

I love using my $30 Japanese saw, but I hate the idea of just throwing away an old blade. Thanks for the sharpening lesson. I think the next saw I get will be one I can sharpen.

[@CancerConquering]

Hello Mr. Sellers, I'm a woodworking mastercraft subscriber and love your lessons and tutelage. I'm wondering if you have done a video or could do a video on restoring an old rusty hand saw like you did with the hand plane restoration. Would be very useful. Thank you.

[@jamesfreda1903]

I very much appreciate your explanations,precise and easy to understand. In one episode,I noticed what looks to be a book shelf in the background. This is something that I have been looking for. I am wondering if it's possible to share or purchase the plans? You make it a joy to watch your videos,and showing how any one can make hand tools and maintain what we use,to get the best results. Thank you very much.

[@daveb8598]

Thank you so much for these types of reviews of more economical tools!

[@Kikilang60]

Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Where do I buy years of experience?

[@tonyennis3008]

They're free!

[@boozoochavis7506]

Even if I could afford that LN, I deserve the S&J more for what I will ever be able to do with hand tools. Sadly, the less expensive saws are not as easy to come by in the states. I did find some nice vintage saws but getting my sharpening skills up to snuff is not all that easy after leaving that for 40 years. Thanks for posting this!

[@bighands69]

I would suggest if you can afford it buy some good tools. S&j are a good beginners tool.

[@chrisblack2625]

Can you do cheap vs expensive vs vintage handsaws?

[@ragelord2008]

You remind me of the guy who taught me James Price, we gave him shit as a class but we all respected and listened to him because he couldn't be beaten in skill, he actually also taught my father when he was in college.

[@elwakty]

I like you , sir , you are so good in lecturing , I like being so clear , and calm . I remember every word you say though my mother tongue is Arabic , thank you , gentleman .

[@androidgameplays4every13]

13:24 They dictate to you what you can buy and don't really give you what you really need. Amazing as usual.

[@ericerdelyi9881]

Rip se Qw

[@swallowwoodworking1299]

A good video. I like the continuous presentation style and real-time teeth sharpening.

[@donkenta3634]

Thanks for the video, and thank you for demostrate that not all time de more expensive tools are much better than a cheapest.

[@pablo24scotland]

And that's why I love your videos Paul :) Thank you

[@fancraft1266]

Bahco also make a 7tpi resharpenable saw, and it's made in Sweden

[@orcasea59]

On Rex's channel the Spear & Jackson saw had excessive set, and when reduced it made it an even better, more accurate saw.

[@noisepuppet]

Saw the video and I do think he improved it. I think it's worth mentioning that when you take some set out of the teeth, what you give up is steerability. The narrow kerf means if you get off track it's hard to steer back to your line. Rex does mention this when discussing the narrow kerf Japanese saws. It's a good channel. He should get his own PBS show.

[@brianmiller9365]

This is GREAT. Thank you Paul. I love this channel.

[@AzRavnGrl]

This was so informative and helpful, Paul. Thank you!

[@dannyboy9784]

Thanks for another great detailed video Paul.

[@rayl6599]

I bought the 24 inch 9515K to try. It's OK for cross cut but not so great for rip cuts. I am debating whether to invest in refiling it and then trying again. I will point out though, that my blade measures 1.0mm thick, pretty consistently throughout, and that matches the spec sheet on the S&J website. Maybe it has changed since this video where Paul measured it at 0.81-0.85 mm? 25% difference.

[@johnpotter4750]

The latest Trad S & J's are riveted is it 'worthwhile' removing same and proper saw screws inset for cleaning and setting. (heard the rivets/handle come loose) I'm moving away the cheap fixes of my youth, next proper metal for my brace augers (bought as a Elec Apprentice (underfloor joists, conduit)))

[@lauralomonaco5847]

Thank you friend 😀

[@rickl.orchids]

great show, so much information.........

[@operationmickeymouseharold6780]

On a side topic it would be awesome if they would make blades for sawzalls that are wide like handsaws

[@jhendry12]

Hi Paul, great video again thanks for uploading. if you're ever running out of ideas for a video I'd love to see a demo of all of those handmade planes that are above your left shoulder on the video. loved the video you did on your spill plane, would be great to see the rest of them.

[@pvtts05]

This is unbelievably helpful.

[@BDM_PT]

Hi there from Portugal, Another great video, and I love all of them :D Thanks Master PSellsers

[@adamlynch4607]

I have lots of late 70s and 80s versions of these spear and Jackson saws handed down from my late farther, they are great every day saws I use mine for site work and in the workshop. As I have now vowed not to buy another disposable hard point I'm getting down those I had so the S&Js are getting more and more work as are some of my vintage ones. I think S&J don't offer a rip because they don't have the machine tooling to do it any more. Would be interested to know where they are made as S&J until about 2 years ago put made in England on them now I notice there's no mention of that.

[@JontoDickens]

He mentioned the S+J was made in Taiwan but I'm not sure if that was just a throw away comment meaning 'outsourced to cheap labour in Asia'. I would have thought that S+J would have access to the tooling to make a rip template but don't more to do with economic reasons - and they could certainly outsource to produce a rip saw like they have with the cross cut variant - but I think it's more to do with demand which in turn leaves knowledgeable craftsmen out of a place to buy a reasonably priced rip saw......

[@adamlynch4607]

+Jonto Dickens S&J own some of the biggest and best names in hand tools they brought the lot (well those Stanley and irwin didn't). Elwell, tyzack, brades, amongst many others so the tooling was there as tyzack and elwell both made good saws. What I suspect though is they figured them out here in the uk then shipped manufacturing out side. What you will find is they are punched in the same machine as the hard points hence no rip available. If you want a new rip from factory at a fairly reasonable price by one from Flinn and garlick they are more expensive (not as expensive as the designer tools) but worth it.

[@adamlynch4607]

+Jonto Dickens just read in a book on British saws that S&J are England's oldest saw maker and they have shafted there history.

[@MrGoatflakes]

One comparison you could do would be to sharpened another cross cut saw the same amount of time in the cross cut fashion and then compared the two, the cross cut sharpened as a rip cut and the cross cut sharpened in a cross cut. And then compared it to the pricey rip cut saw. After you sharpened it .-.

[@trackie1957]

For me, the hard part is not skipping teeth or filing some twice, especially with finer saws, like 10pt.

[@mauriciopreve4963]

Muy bien Paul me has enseñado mucho !!!

[@BobBlarneystone]

I think that metallurgy has improved to the point that a less expensive saw is nearly as functional as the high-priced one. By the way, would it be better to remove the varnish, and wax the blade? I think automotive brake cleaner/degreaser would remove it quickly.

[@Paul.Sellers]

+Bob Blarney Yes, but I wanted as close to new as possible. It was this that cause the vibration on the returning strokes.

[@HansZarkovPhD]

Paul, Do you ever use the japanese-style pull cut saws?

[@frenstcht]

GAAAAAAAH! That noise! I think we just discovered what's going to be waiting for me in Room 101.

[@joshuarosen6242]

It was absolutely horrible. I normally like listening to Paul but not with screeching metal on metal as background music.

[@frenstcht]

@@joshuarosen6242 It's not much better when you're doing it yourself. But it is more rewarding.

[@adevwco7013]

Paul, thank you, my confidence & learning builds with each video watched. Looking at the high end saw in the video, the toe end top of the plate has been shaped differently, does this serve purpose or is it just fancy design ?

[@HerrLavett]

Thank you!

[@sonny0754]

thank you paul, always like your films, all best andrew

[@ryan_conover]

the video really looks fantastic. great info as well

[@TomLeg]

Ripcut or cross-cut, tapered metal or not, I suspect you can become accustomed to what you have and achieve great results.

[@oldproji]

Excellent tutorial.

[@colmhain]

What brand of saw available in the U.S. would you recommend?

[@treytaylor2430]

+Mike W try great neck saws. lows ore home Depot carry them. I've reset and resharpened several without problems or complaints

[@colmhain]

Me too. Thanks.

[@AryanDesai-gm8st]

Well, I use a 470 year old saw made by a very old company.it burns the hell out of me when I want to sharpen it

[@ugaladh]

I'm no saw expert, and do more carving than precision woodworking, but I have a Freud rip cut saw ( made in England) that I have been pleased with. no longer recall where I ordered it from, probably Woodcraft years ago.

[@ugaladh]

Looked at the Freud website, it appears they only make circular saw blades now? no handsaws listed

[@jdog4534]

I really like your videos. They're so informative yet so simple to understand. I bought a bunch of hand tools at an estate sale a few years ago. The hand saws are duller than a Meril Streep movie. I've been meaning to sharpen them .. along with my grandpa's saws, my dad's saws, my uncle's saws and a few others.. lol I'm curious though. Why was there a notch missing from the tip of one of those new saws? One of mine has the same notch and I thought the guy I got it from needed a small strip of tool steel, maybe for cutting threads on dowels.. but now I'm stumped.. what's the purpose of the notch?

[@SkillCult]

excellent as always!

[@rooseveltthompson8026]

SkillCult n Sharpening lkjhgffdddss

[@MrCujo1]

Thanks Paul for another great lesson :)

[@englishcarver6972]

Paul, do you ever use a diamond stone on your saws? or just a file?

[@blackfender100]

Very good Paul thank you.

[@ScottBarrett-r6o]

Hiya Paul I have them in my basket to buy ao ur feed bk will be brilliant there must be okbfor a bigginer can you tell me we're to get that oil u brush across your saw would like to buy a tub what price range

[@mikegreenebass]

Great info as always! Thank you.

[@coljter15]

Thanks for another great video

[@kurtandrews7450]

So how is that first saw sharpened with a fleam angle

[@stringmanipulator]

Excellent as always ... love your videos

[@vincentc.maggio5401]

If you wanted to replace the rivets with proper saw nuts, how do you remove the existing rivets?

[@lloydgarland4667]

Great video Paul, much appreciated. Any chance you could make one to show us lesser mortals how to cut square and true? Not so much across the width of the timber, a knife wall solves that issue - I mean when you cut down into the timber. I guess practice is the answer, but is it the only answer?

[@adamlynch4607]

The saw can be a big issue to excessive set or set to much on one side will cause wandering issues. Once you have a decent correctly set saw it then come down to practice. Like any tool a saw will try to follow the grain so it's just a case of keeping it cutting true with your hand placement.

[@richardc6932]

Interesting, the S &J crosscut converted to a rip tooth still has the set on the teeth. Normally rip teeth don’t have set on , do they? They probably bind less I would guess.🇨🇦👍👨‍🦳

[@bertv1205]

Could that bit of vibration with the S&J be caused by the varnish on it? That must have some effect…

[@joeliwest]

Does the set matter going from what I assume is a wider set cross cut to a mildly set rip

[@peteward6478]

Thankyou

[@lunardust201]

Aren't rip cut saws more accurate when ripping though? I feel like they may be able to stay straight line cut more reliably than if you use a saw with crosscut teeth or with "universal" teeth

[@andrewturpin1994]

any advise on purchasing your first router plane?

[@johnkendrick8008]

Paul, do you have an opinion on Lynx brand saws?

[@jamartin1]

Thank you!💜

[@noire1001]

Could you add a taper grind yourself by sanding the back portion of the plate? Might be a cheap way to turn your £20 saw into a £100+ saw.

[@jameslister412]

would anyone recommend putting an old saw blade in a vinegar bath to remove the rust or will it damage the blade?

[@assessor6951]

Just did that today with an old tenon saw from a boot fair that I paid £5 for. Thirty Minutes in a bath of distilled (white) vinegar and wash off under a running tap with a nail brush and the rust is dealt with. Its a bit dark, but it is smooth ready for a bit more finishing and fettling. Be aware, when you take it out of the vinegar you must rinse the vinegar off (vinegar is an acid, however mild) and dry the blade thoroughly then give it a little rub of light oil or the rust will come back within an hour.

[@priyamd4759]

Does it make any difference for cutting plywood? Asking because plywood has layers of wood sheets arranged with the fibres at right angles to each other. What is a rip cut for one layer is a cross cut for another. Most of the work in India happens with plywood. I am a hobbyist. Thanks, Regards,

[@bighands69]

Plywood is notorious for breakout due to the layered fibres. You will only really know when you actually get the plywood and cut it. Is pinewood not easily available in india?

[@BensWorkshop]

Thank you.

[@michaelanderson9043]

Most informative as usual.

[@stefanopassiglia]

I think the more expensive saw has less reverberation because of the shape of the tip, it's got less metal so less inertia and less steel that moves free.

[@SerhatAkiska]

Hi Paul, what kind/type saw would you recommend/use on 5/8" birch plywood for both cross and rip cuts? Thank you in advance

[@Paul.Sellers]

Because the plywood is thin I would just use a crosscut handsaw made by Spear and Jackson 10ppi.

[@SerhatAkiska]

Paul, I appreciate your prompt reply, thanks!

[@mysticjbyrd]

What would be a good budget option for usa?

[@jamesknights3998]

Have you had any thoughts on apprenticeships?

[@Paul.Sellers]

+James Dutka The problem with apprentices is they cut your own production to half. Two apprentices negate your work altogether.

[@stefanopassiglia]

What a great video Paul! Thanks!

[@brandonfrancey5592]

I think that the only question left is longevity. How long does each saw last before it requires resharpening? If both saws hold a point for about the same time, I don't see much justification for a more expensive saw. Hard to spend 7 times the money for a 5% performance improvement.

[@Paul.Sellers]

+Brandon Francey No question as to longevity. I have been using it extensively now and it's still going strong.

[@killerNL96]

So you get RIPED of with a expensive saw?

[@joshuarosen6242]

+Elroy I'm sure he's cross about it.

[@bluesideup007]

+Joshua Rosen I saw what you did there!

[@JTA-pc7if]

bluesideup007 These jokes are cutting me up

[@digital_harry]

What a sharp comment.

[@DentargPL]

Paul. You are the man!

[@Socalcheeze]

top notch instruction

[@danthechippie4439]

Is that a Lie_Nielsen rip saw?

[@MrSlushy87]

I am about to convert a 8 ppi crosscut saw into a rip saw but I wonder: the crosscut saw has some rake to it and I am concerned that the rake will cause some problem if I only file across while following the (raked) gullet. Do you think I can treat the saw just like Paul did or should I try to eliminate the rake as well? Thankfull for help

[@TechTins_Projects]

Can someone help me. I missed the point Paul made about why he prefers to convert cross cut saws to rip cut. Is it that rip cut saws are as good as cross cut? My understanding is rip cuts are good for cutting with the grain. But are they not so good across the grain. Bit confused.

[@donkenta3634]

Sorry my bad English, Pauls have 2 saw, one for rip cuts and another for cross cuts, boths cheapest saw, remember the more expensive save cost, is 4 or 5 times than the cheapest.

[@TechTins_Projects]

Darío Oscar Nakatsuka Thanks for the info, that makes sense.

[@thomashanson6607]

at 10:58 he mentions that he rips and cross cuts with a rip saw and doesn't like to have both, although he didn't elaborate. Then at 12:40 he talks about having 1 for each type of cut.

[@hankrearden20]

Tech Tins I believe he commented on the lack of rip saws on the market, and if you were on a budget, you could convert the more common crosscut to a rip to save on money.

[@TechTins_Projects]

+James Estrada Thank you that makes perfect sense now.

[@fenhir1972]

What abou Japanese saws? They have the two ways in one saw.