Hangboard Climbing Training: Two Arm vs One Arm

[@tristanmayfield4851]

That was the best summary of the topic I think I've ever heard.

[@eliojaquier8186]

This was exactly the video that I needed! Keep going😄

[@LatticeTraining]

No worries!!

[@SendEdition]

Thanks for sharing! I started a beginner hang boarding training program a couple of weeks ago that a coach at my gym recommended for me - nowhere near being able to do one arm but when I am, I'll come back to this video :)

[@elijahgahm8842]

You get there yet? I started working on getting a one arm bath recently and it’s very frustrating. I can climb v7 but recently realized can’t hang on a fingerboard with one hand… :(

[@ViziKari]

Instantly click on like before I even see it just because of the topic and you have made it 😅💪🏾🥰

[@stevenclimb]

Great video!

[@RobbiePhillips]

One arm assisted deadhangs have done wonders for developing my shoulders over the years - great shout! One arm repeaters though.... 👊😂Bloody hell, if there's anyone climbing 5.14a/8b+ whose managing one arm repeaters, I might suggest the cork game, or quiet feet are happy feet rather than more fingerboarding 😜

[@LatticeTraining]

Hahaha... true Robbie. Assisted 1 arm repeaters are useful though.

[@davidtorres8396]

What do you think about one arm isometric pulls with your feet grounded/on a stool when you’re not quite strong enough to hold a smaller hold size with two hands? I learned about this from geek climber’s collab with Dr. Tyler Nelson.

[@richardbradley1532]

Good question. For many of us one arm hangs without assistance is not an option.

[@LatticeTraining]

Yup, definitely has its place. There’s potential for a bit more variety/option with the shoulder positioning as well 😊

[@TheGreatAscent]

Any recommendations on one arm hangs when it comes to positioning. I see people hang „straight“ „Infront“ of the hangboard and some people are more twisted in (like when you want to do a one arm pull-up). I have been struggling to find info on what is „better“ or if it might benefit different parts of the shoulder when it comes to building stability. (Both positions seems applicable in actual climbing)

[@KletterKellerKind]

Short summary: Be good or don't do it^^ But that's what to expect by the titel to be honest

[@LatticeTraining]

Use when appropriate 💪😎💪

[@lerouxjacobs2032]

I see on the Crimpd app the max 2 arm test is 7 seconds and the max 1 arm test is only 5 seconds. However both have 10 seconds 90% max hangs. The duration jump from 5 seconds to 10 seconds feels very intense for the single arm hangs, even at 90%. So I drop the weight even more, and aim to build up to 90% on the one arm. What is the thought process behind the big jump of 5 to 10 seconds?

[@sam-yau]

I’m hitting a month long plateau at approx 88% body weight one arm on 20mm, and from all of the anecdotal literature on the internet, they prescribe “hypertrophy” work, ie. repeaters at 60% max over very long time under tension (10 sets). Is there any truth to these programs or is forearm hypertrophy a myth?

[@jakelevi1996]

Did you see Mani the Monkeys recent video on his finger board regime change? Sounds like a similar thing you're describing

[@LatticeTraining]

Well hypertrophy isn’t a “myth” as such... it just depends on what the cause of your plateau is. A month long plateau does not sound like a long time to us...! 😅

[@yannbezain9791]

you didnt talk about the physiological adaptations each one gives etcc and biomechanical too....

[@dlpvapor919]

So I've been finger boarding for weeks and my left index finger in the tip has become numb and tingly and has lost tangibility. I feel the side of my finger when I braze my right numb along my finger, it feels like the nerve is reacting and is like separated from my tendon, has anybody experience this? How do you deal with this?

[@tomrunge5232]

How can I progress towards one arm hangs when i am able to carry 150 percent with two hands for quiet some time. I think i reached a plateau there and tried to implement some additional repeaters. Is this the right approach or is there a better way from your point of view?

[@DerButzemann94]

If you are looking to increase max strength you should find a weight which you can hold for 5s but not longer than 8s. 3-5 sets, 2-3 min rest. This works fine for me, hope this helps!

[@LatticeTraining]

How are you on a single arm on 30-40mm?

[@tomrunge5232]

@@LatticeTrainingThe problem is since I am only training at home on my portable hangboard which only has two 25mm edges i cant really put that to the test. Still lockdown in Germany. But i am trying to accomplish the one armer already for a long time and i never really was able to get the transition done. Regarding my climbing experience this is definitely oderdue...:0

[@LatticeTraining]

@@tomrunge5232 ahh.... I see. Well, here's hoping it doesn't go on too much longer!!

[@vinkhuu]

Thanks for the comparison video! I'm having trouble breaking through my 2 arm max hang plateau - I've tried mixing it up with an 8 week repeater cycle, minimum edge, and time off. Any quick recommendations on how to progress?

[@samcocum]

Add in a repeaters session once a week and/or a session of density hangs and/or '20s max hangs', these will help with hypertrophy, then come back to the short duration 5->10s max hangs in the future for recruiting the newly added strength. The 5->10s max hangs are just for recruitment so, I have found you make increases then plateau. The break that you need some hypertrophy.

[@lukeglaister81]

Whats the rough guide in percentage held 2 arm to be able to hang 1 arm at bodyweight on the 20mm edge.

[@LatticeTraining]

Very roughly 170-180%...

[@jakelevi1996]

Nice video! I have a question: what is your view on doing 2 arm lock-offs while fingerboarding? I do this partly because I have portable fingerboards hanging from a pull up bar, which aren't as high off the ground as I'd like, so I alternate between 2 arm lock-offs and 2 arms with arms almost straight (elbows slightly bent) and knees tucked to chest to stop my feet touching the floor. I also figure the lock offs might be useful for training lock of strength on edges. I was wondering if this is okay, or there is a higher risk of injury from statically hanging on the lock off position from fingerboard?

[@davidpleydell3522]

Good question. I recently started playing with this for density hangs, ie long duration isometrics at body weight, on medium to large holds. Deep lock-offs are known to aggregate golfers elbow, so 90deg or 125deg makes sense. Don't think I'd lockoff for weighted 2arm max hangs though... I'd want to concentrate on the fingers. But... Dave Macleod does 1 arm hangs with a 90 degree lockoff.

[@jakelevi1996]

@@davidpleydell3522 Thank you, this is useful! I think I will replace my full lock-off hangs with 90 degree hangs. I can see how 1-arm lock-offs could be better for the elbows than 2-arm lock-offs, because the wrist would be in a more neutral position (I have been looking into this kind of stuff a bit recently after getting a bit too enthusiastic with band-assisted front levers, which have made my elbows slightly tweaky)