How To Install Pistons - (Hyundai / Kia 2.4 GDI) - Short Block Rebuild Part 4

Piston installation is the last task involving in completing the rebuild on this Hyundai / Kia 2.4 short block. What was needed and used were two 1/4" socket extensions (to prevent the piston rings from sitting on the bore lip), a ring compressor tool, motor oil and torque wrenches. As mentioned and shown in the prior videos, this engine's bores were increased from 87mm to 87.5mm; use of .5mm oversized pistons to compensate for the bore increase; replacement of the old connecting rods with new rods and re-installation of the original crankshaft with polished journals.
If you'd like to make a donation to the channel, please follow the link below: paypal.me/HardlyMoving?locale...
Parts & Tools:
Piston Ring Compression Tool
amzn.to/44RQQKd
SATA - ST96535 1/2-Inch Drive Electric Torque Wrench with Angle and Dual Material, 25-250 ft lbs (34-340 Nm) - ST96536
amzn.to/3YFhbdh
As an Amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for your support!
Please Subscribe: goo.gl/x6fySQ
#shortblock

[@salvadorsepulveda6415]

It's coming together just fine, good job 👏 👍

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@evanepp]

Great Video! I love watching your content! Thanks!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your critique and support!

[@johnszwarc1985]

you do a great job with your videos ,ive been rebuilding engines over 40 years, you are leaving out 1 important item , before the ring compressor is slid over the piston, the ring gaps need to be checked for proper placement, you may have a newbie that has all the ring gaps likned up , who knows , big thing to leave out of video.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Great point and thanks for sharing!

[@christianmorales3553]

New subscriber, thankyou for the information! I think I want to get one from the junkyard and rebuild it for my daily!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! The engines are hard to come by at the salvage yard. They get pulled out as soon as the car hits the yard!

[@DeeNo909]

You mastered the mechanics, Not sure if anyone's asked you yet brutha but what made u wanna be a mechanic? And do you enjoy fixing cars still? Also how did you learn all this wizardry? Aha thx in advance and keep up the amazing work and content

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! I'm just a do-it-yourself type guy. Read books, talk to pros and see how others do it online. The joy is getting cheap cars that people gave up on and fixing them up.

[@josephwiggins3115]

Good afternoon Sir, one last question I have about this build. Do you use plasti-gage to measure the clearance of the connecting rod bearing to crankshaft pin, and do you also re-use or purchase new bolts for the crankshaft main bearing caps because they are TTY bolts. Your response will greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I use to use the plasti-gage but found it not necessary with new rods and rod bearings. If the connection is too tight, the engine won't rotate indicating a hang spot between the rod and bearing. This is why I crank the engine over for each rod connected to the crankshaft. I've never installed new TTY bearing cap bolts. The originals work just fine. If they were over stretched (which I've never encountered), the bolts might snap when performing the final angle torques. Cylinder head bolts are another story. If the rebuild is for a over heat engine with a warped head, you might want to consider using new head bolts. But that's another story. For those bolts to overstretch, they may have stripped the threads in the engine block which is another head ache to fix with sert fittings.

[@paddywop1]

This was really helpful. I am also rebuilding a 2.4l engine as well. First time doing it. So I do have one question. If you do not see the labels with arrows on the pistons, how do you know which direction to drop the piston Into the chamber. My worry is putting it in backwards. Or does this even matter? Great video. Very helpful.

[@hardlymovingpro]

If you can't see the label I'd recommend you play it safe and get new pistons. I'd also bet the teflon coating on the side skirts are worn out as well? New piston sets can be had from numerous vendors on Ebay. Also if you're rebuilding due to spun rod bearings, the rods may be damaged or slightly warped. Again, on Ebay you can get a combo kit with new pistons and rods. I've had around a 80% success rate with rebuilding over a dozen of these engines. The 20% failures were due to the bore being out-of-round, bad rods or bad pistons. Otherwise, the semi circular dome raised portion of the piston head is on the port (left) side of the engine.

[@paddywop1]

Perfect. Several good points. I have new pistons so I will try the last option. Keep up the good videos

[@hardlymovingpro]

You bet!

[@user-kz1ib7ow7v]

Good video's. I have a 2017 Santa Fe sport with 117000 miles. It started using some oil in between 3000 mile changes. I like the car and want to drive it for a few more years. I watched a video of a Korean mechanic dissembling an engine. He showed how much piston to wall clearance the engine had. Is this an issue with the 2.4 engine also or just weak rings or both. I am getting all the information together so I can make a decision on my next move. I had old trucks with worn out engines that did not use this much oil in the past. They would also have blue smoke coming out the exhaust as well. I am not getting any blue smoke. Why? Thanks

[@hardlymovingpro]

IMHO, I believe the oil consumption is due to weak rings (to reduce friction and improve fuel efficiency) and 5W-20 weight oil. Perhaps switching to a 5W-30 might improve the oil consumption issues. The owner's manual states that 5W-30 can be used. If you can make it to 3k miles burning less than 1 qtr of oil, I wouldn't worry about it. Otherwise, easier said than done, re-ring the pistons with the Hastings brand aftermarket rings. Of all the 2.4 Hyundai engines I've rebuilt, the majority had stuck oil rings and gummy oil ring separators.

[@bashaarathrabbi8631]

Can you also show us how to reconnect all the wiring and stuff back onto the engine it would be much appreciated 🙏🙏

[@hardlymovingpro]

Maybe in a future video.

[@abdoelzohiry1834]

Please I want ask you do you can change a crank shaft bearing from under the car without disassemble all the engine?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Nope because the crankshaft must be removed. However, you can possibly replace the crank rod bearings; but that's usually a waste of time since the bearing journal surface for the rod bearing is usually scored requiring machine work.

[@thorthunder3227]

Is there any bearing crush? You never mention that either.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Clearences mic'd at the machine shop.

[@georgedori51]

I am so disappointed in my Kia, I babied that car (1st owner) and changed the oil every 5K using Mobil 1, Low and behold on highway doin 70 engine just quit....towed it home to find a locked. I tore into it and rod bearings #1 & #3 spun and seized to the crank. I did get the Ebay kit because the block looks good. Has Kia ever improved on this rod bearing issue do you know? Your videos help alot Thank you

[@bennyhill007]

Which Ebay kit?

[@hardlymovingpro]

I'd bet leading to the 5K oil change the oil level dropped. Then the oil pump was starved of oil and that lead to the rod bearings wearing out. This is usually caused by Hyundia / Kia installing weak piston rings that after some miles fail to scrap oil off the cylinder walls causing oil burn. If your crankshaft journal surfaces are scored or the crank is warped from friction heat, you may have to replace the crankshaft before doing a rebuild. Have a engine machine shop check out your crankshaft.

[@mariopic]

problem is crank oiling holes blockage and the cracked cast connecting rods the bearing locatimg tangs flatten due to the ramp desigh not holding them in place and bearimg rotatating under use and vibration the subaru fa20 has same problem

[@georgedori51]

that makes perfect sense.. but I will say that there were no oil passage blockages of any kind...all of the main bearings were like new but all of the rod bearings were worn down to the inner layers of the bearings and #1 and #3 were welded to the crank which seized the engine. so far so good on the engine overhaul,, I will say look at your new parts closely because i was sent a head gasket that was very similar but was not the right one. I LOVE my Kia I wish I could trust this engine@@mariopic

[@LuisC202]

@@georgedori51 Did you take your motor to a machine shop to check the piston wall bores?

[@carlospadilla683]

I want to rebuild mine but do I need to replace the pistons or just the parts that are bad?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Depends on the condition of the pistons. If you see a lot of scuff marks on the skirts, I'd replace them.

[@tierra-marie9427]

So torque specifications 14 ft lbs + 90 deg turn?

[@hardlymovingpro]

That's correct.

[@thorthunder3227]

What is the thickness of the bearing?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Don't have the specs off hand.

[@BlackandWhitecustoms]

I just looked at kias website and it says to tighten to 26 foot lbs then 92 degrees on final step

[@hardlymovingpro]

Recommend you get yourself a repair manual instead of specs shown online. My specs come from a Hyundai published guide for the: SONATA(YF) > 2012 > G 2.4 GDI > Engine Mechanical System Initial Torque: 13.0 - 15.9 lbs Angle Torque: 88 - 92 degrees

[@BlackandWhitecustoms]

@@hardlymovingprohhc cartridge

[@ylmazgunduz1840]

60 nm 90nm

[@marvcook6623]

Don't put your fingers on the bearing faces

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing!

[@thorthunder3227]

I see you bored it or it is bored .50 over.

[@hardlymovingpro]

That's correct.