Hardtail Vise Build Ep.10: Milling the Bolt-On Jaw Face

We'll finish the milling ops in the Kearny & Trecker milling machine as we mill the bolt on jaw face for the Hardtail vise dynamic jaw body. #abom79 #machineshop #manualmachining #hardtailvise
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[@micmike]

Always like looking at that photo of you, your Dad and Grandad.

[@noblsht]

Said that to myself many times 😐😐😐

[@JohnBare747]

When you announced that you were going to go ahead and machine that cast face I spoke out loud to the Monitor "Yes, Thank You!" Then felt a little foolish but that was the right thing to do aesthetically for the vice but me trying to talk to Adam directly on the screen is a bit of a Senior Moment. It's my 82 birthday Friday and my sister is taking me to a birthday lunch that I wouldn't want to miss as you never quite know if you are going to have another one next year so I am leaving Stick-Notes everywhere to remind me and Stick-Notes to remember to look at the other Stick-Notes. Even way back when I was more spry in the memory department I noted down the dimensions with a Sharpie near the machine if not on it because the stronger I felt that I was remembering the correct number it seemed the greater the chance was I was wrong. Just the other day I needed to tap a 1/4-20 hole 🕳 and wondered why my tap fell trough the hole I just drilled, I used the "F" clearance drill instead of the #7 tap drill. Now that's a BOZO move if I ever heard of one. I needed the clearance drill alright but in the other half of the part. BOZO showed no mercy!

[@davidhall1779]

happy birthday and im happy you still no where the machine is.

[@JohnBare747]

I just seem to be leading BOZO around by the hand showing him my secrets so he can catch me off guard.@@davidhall1779

[@gavinb9627]

Happy Birthday, just keep doing what you are doing for as long as you can. May you have many more birthdays too

[@YuiSuMoa]

This series so far has been your best so far. I hope you get another rough part to show all the ways you can machine something. I'm not a machinist but i enjoy watching your videos. Could always learn something or maybe a different way to approach things.

[@willb3018]

I am not a machinist. Never been one and never will be one. I don't even know one. But I really appreciate watching expert craftsmen in any field do their thing. So when I found this channel I binged it a bit. Now I try to keep up. Adam is great and for a guy like me, his explanations of what he does and why are informative and entertaining at the same time. I also like seeing some of that old American iron still doing what it was made to do.

[@Abom79]

I really appreciate hearing thoughts from non machinists and what they enjoy about the videos. Thank you. 👍🏻

[@noblsht]

I am with you I don't know any machinists I have never known a machinist,, but I like watching these types of channels one of the first ones I came across was "cutting edge engineering"

[@DrNock-jp7ck]

We all know that you can correct that little error you made, if it needs it. Not a biggie. Great video 😊

[@johnsjunkyard]

Drill the mounting holes to print on this jaw, and don't worry about it dude. Other option is to drill the holes to print, then deck 0.030" off the bottom surface of this jaw and both surfaces of the static jaw too and make custom jaw inserts to match that. it would mean that the jaw insert mounting holes would be 0.030" offset from their print, but would make them a universal fit for either side... Or just leave it and use the vice with some grace as you do with your other tools and just don't worry about it and keep stock parts compatibility. I would love to see it done exactly right, but it's just not worth it in this case. Sometimes you just gotta know when enough is enough.

[@braddobson2060]

Nice that you are doing this job in the old shop it's much more realistic

[@alexsam1175]

Thank god im not the only one that mixs up numbers like that. I let out a sigh of relief when i saw that

[@andybogart2503]

If that gap really bugs you, could you take the 0.003 off the lower face? It’d drop the jaw a little, but maybe that’d be worth it to get rid of the gap? That finish is beautiful!!

[@ZachStein]

That's what I was thinking there

[@bertblankenstein3738]

I'd rather keep the jaws at the same height and that tiny gap would not bother me.

[@SirFlibbertyJibbit]

it was 0.030. if your not familiar with imperial that's around .75mm, which is a lot. He'd have to rework the other opposite jaw location to get them the right heights.

[@danielmunro536]

I do mistakes like that all the time. I would fix by milling bottom of both jaws in the same process the exact amount. Right on Adam appreciate you.

[@broggyr]

I was just thinking ‘How often do those chips stick to the flutes of that 2” end mill’, and BAM! It went to slow motion. :D

[@machinists-shortcuts]

The jaw ledge should have a radius to prevent cracking from the shock loads it will be subjected to. The rippa cutter has a small corner radius which would have left a neat internal radius & the vertical face finish would be better for mating faces. Traditionally don't leave sharp internal corners & chamfer external mating external corners ( the jaw ) to clear the radius. The bottom face of the jaw location will be subject to shock loads so the stress will certainly benefit from not having a sharp corner where cracks start. The lip on the top which is now redundant is there to take some of these shock loads to protect the vulnerable casting face at the bottom of the jaw from cracking. So the lip needs to sit on the top by removing material from the bottom of the jaw. Otherwise you will have the worst situation where all the force is on the casting face & a sharp corner there ready to crack. Cast Iron is a brittle material & prone to cracking compared to other more ductile steels.

[@kindablue1959]

As someone else mentioned below, it's actually probably a good idea to have clearance on that top edge. Otherwise if the jaw insert is not perfect, you could wind up with all your weight on just that top lip, which would be bad. It's better to force using the bottom edge.

[@johnsjunkyard]

TBF, it would probably be better to hang the jaws off the top edge bud as there is more material there to support it. In fact I believe you could do away with the lower lip entirely and have the jaw inserts as a sacrificial piece that would break before the vice does therefore acting as a sort of mechanical fuse.

[@kindablue1959]

@@johnsjunkyard The jaw casting is designed to withstand the supported pounding load. Putting all that force on that tiny ledge of an insert made of potentially various metals defeats the purpose of designing a heavy duty casting.

[@tuscanland]

I love the old shop man, it looks so cozy it makes you feel like home even though it's through a video screen.

[@invaderkendall]

Those rolled up tube chips are the BEST! The Forbidden Taki's.

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

Spray weld that cast iron back up and mill it again right. We all LOVE the spray welder in action👍👍

[@michaellee6168]

Really love the old shop action. I can practically smell the cutting oil in the air.

[@AirfixLtd]

A fantastic casting such as these deserves the care that you lavish on them. Beautiful workmanship Adam.

[@kamper4140]

Man been there quite a few times in my career with having the wrong dimension in your head and running with it. The best of us do it from time to time, hard to be perfect all the time. Just 99% of the time lol.

[@SUMOCAT86]

I would cut 30 off the lower ledge, so the standard jaws fit if they ever need to be replaced. It's just a vice, tolerances are whatever.

[@WildmanTech]

If he does that, he should also go back and do it to the stationary jaw.

[@bryansmith5415]

I’ve been taking my time watching this series and really enjoying it. Keep it up, love seeing these smaller projects progress and multiple machines being utilized. 👍🏻👍🏻

[@RobertKohut]

Great series!! Will be great to see the shaper make those cuts! :-)

[@CrowBarActual]

I mean, you could always cut down the lower ledge and drop the measurements down on the other jaw and mounting holes to compensate for the error.

[@frfrpr]

I guess Adam slowed the camera down to the ‘awesome mode’. That was pretty impressive. Thanks

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Looks great, thanks for sharing. That cuts like butter.

[@KD0CAC]

If you can't cut deeper - for the excess cut - to seat on both plains , what about shimming the gap ? Thanks again ;)

[@jerryhill681]

My father was a professional Carpenter and he always said that the difference between a professional and an amature was a pro knew how to cover up his mistakes.

[@mwestberg1]

I dont know why when i was in the trade, Side milling is my absolute favorite machining operation, just something about the chips coming off the side of the cutter.

[@richardlincoln8438]

Thank You for the time and effort You spend on these videos Adam. Best Wishes to You and Your Family for the Holiday Season.

[@Abom79]

Same to you!

[@jimmyboles3409]

Really like the old K &T mill 👍 I finally got me a K&T 2HL horizontal mill have a little work & clean up on it before I can use it. Thanks for the video Adam!

[@misterikkit]

22:40 it's amazing to watch those chips stick to the flutes and go around for another spin.

[@johnwilimczyk4188]

Adam it just goes to show we are all human with our frailities

[@jamesreed6121]

In my opinion you can never fail to attract viewers with a shaper video. So yes, bring on the shaper! KOKO!

[@sthawk01]

Spray weld the lip and re-machine it. Or cut the bottom surface down to make the jaw sit in there, then machine the other side to match. Or put a shim in there. Or Machine the jaw to fit that side, then level both jaws off once assembled. All Four options would be interesting to see in a video.

[@billdoodson4232]

As someone else has said take the bit off the bottom of the jaw to make it sit correctly on the two faces of the body, then make the fixed jaw the same. Two wrongs make a right.

[@derekchristofferson4244]

a simple fix for the gap is to make some jaws. i like that step Jason put in, there is more casting up there to not crack off. 👍

[@T1nCh0]

Im loving these project so far. The showcase of machines and techniques is amazing.

[@jaysonbackes9279]

Well there goes my ability to sleep tonight.... That gap is going to keep me stirring.

[@RobertKohut]

The K&T looks like it's watching you.... LOL @6:25

[@fredhayman1235]

Adam I like all the videos....mistakes or not....Merry Christmas

[@JesusvonNazaret]

17:40 wasn't it Jason's point that the vertical load would rest on the top step of the jaw, rather than on the bottom step of the casting, to prevent breakage of the casting (as seem sometimes with regular rectangular crosssection jaws)?

[@damionparson247]

Super finish! Thanks for sharing!

[@robertproteau4113]

The project looks amazing, Adam. I look forward to seeing more.

[@angelramos-2005]

Great video,Adam.Thank you.

[@MichaelD-fn5lv]

Really enjoying this series!

[@geckoproductions4128]

Nice installment, thanks

[@kevinreardon2558]

Allays love the end shot of the three generations. I'm positive the last two are proud beyond belief.

[@thisolesignguy2733]

Beautiful cuts, cast iron is really pretty but oh man is it messy lol. But nicely done! Also, I don't think mistake is actually a mistake per se. You could shim it with brass stock and that would actually allow for a bit of shock resistance. Which might make the vise last even longer. Just a thought.

[@benm9193]

Easy mistake... easy fix. Put a slice of .030 shim in when you mount the jaw to share the load.

[@firesurfer]

Saved me a comment. Use brass for a nice fit.

[@briggstim1]

Love the home shop

[@Altoid777]

Put some shim stock to tighten up the top cut of the jaw insert.

[@phrodendekia]

That little space up there looks actually useful, If it was a bit higher than it should it would make the jaw hang of it, being a bit shorter makes the jaw supported by the bottom part.

[@garychaiken808]

Good job. Thank you 😊

[@petermcneill80]

Looking good 👍🏻

[@user-dn4iv2ne6r]

You could just recut the bottom step and then carry that over to the vice body.

[@KSMechanicalEngineering]

Nice work

[@TorgeirFredriksen]

Just mill off a bit on the bottom as well, and the jaw will sit perfetc. It's just a vice...

[@buckhorncortez]

Or a "vise"...and not something that is immoral or wicked behavior...

[@TorgeirFredriksen]

@@buckhorncortez sorry, misspelled a bit, not my language ;) However, by doing that (and doing the same on the fixed jaw) he (Adam) could show how to recover from a little bummer without sacrificing anything regarding the final result.

[@mm9773]

Yes, I would take a little bit more off the bottom ledge and do the same thing on the other jaw.

[@mm9773]

@@TorgeirFredriksen No no, the spelling is correct. It’s ‘vice’ in proper English.

[@SpaceCowboy5555]

That slowmo at 24:30 is awesome. Great video

[@jjbode1]

12:32 the finishing end mill, sure worked well. Great video!

[@EricHansen-fr3cz]

Great project & nice job ! Best to channel.. good video

[@grntitan1]

Sure did leave a nice finish.

[@Chevyv8man1]

Your camera does a great job filming, I love watching the chips fly in slow speed. This is a great series. Good Job Adam. Later

[@wmweekendwarrior1166]

Good stuff

[@wdhewson]

Gotta love carbide !!

[@StormbringerMM]

Love it thanks man

[@c0mputer]

Mill the jaw a hir to bring it down some. Easy peasy.

[@anthonymarino4260]

well done.

[@TheJame951]

You could put some shims under the lip of the jaw to get back that little bit of extra support

[@bernardwill7196]

I wish Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to and your family. Greetings from Germany

[@Abom79]

Same to you!

[@munkeeplayz3758]

Just take 30 off of the Jaw, and remember to do the same on the other jaw. You are doing this machining, make it your own. Yes, it's "not to spec" and you have "manufacturing prints", but make it a one off-one of a kind-hand made, piece of work. You have the liberty to take what it should be and what it could be. Again, make it your own! If this was for a customer, I would do my best to fix it. But, this is for you! Change the other side to match and it will still work great and as intended! Love your work and your videos, all of them, the cooking and traveling, they've all been great! Thank you.

[@1956Taz]

I don't know if anybody had mentioned this, but when you're running end mills in particular the trickery of 60 frames or 30 frames a minute on video, makes it look like that the End Mill is running in reverse unless you slow it down and then you see the correct direction.

[@KJ6EAD]

A minute!? How about per second.

[@1956Taz]

Yeah I meant to say per second

[@__austrianoldboy_9861]

nice video!

[@dawszelka5461]

Beautiful work Adam ;) be proud of yourself ;) mistakes happen to everyone ;) its good this mistake is not critical for a job ;)

[@ilaril]

I've really been enjoying these vice-videos. It shows that you're enjoying your time making things just right. Beautiful work, as always!

[@moms762]

He could just mill the difference of the mistake off the bottom of the jaw insert. After all, he's likely to make other inserts for it anyway.

[@bdkj3e]

That was my idea, even if its hardened doesnt he have a surface grinder?

[@tmackinator]

Lay a shim under the jaw or machine the jaw to fit. Great vid.

[@guillo2388]

I'm agree with you about shim in the jaw

[@philallen9650]

I would machine the jaw to match and alter the hole positions

[@lfd720]

25:44 never seen a caliper used like that

[@jacobhoupt]

He did this comparing to a depth mic in the last video. Me: "Wait, what? 🧐 That's handy."

[@CothranMike]

Shim it, shim it now!

[@Drottninggatan2017]

Should be an easy operation. Put a shim in there and loctite it in place.

[@YoureNottheonlyonehere]

Love youre Videos Adam youre are a great Man. I always a bit shocked that you never perfectly clean youre Work Peace before measurement its so necessary every Dust and Metal Span will fake the measurement. Very nice Viddeo anyway love it keep up Adam

[@ernie6772]

I use cigarette rolling papers for getting close. They are much thinner than regular printer paper, about .0005" range.

[@johnlee8231]

I'd just cut the lower surface another .030 down and then match up the fixed jaw side. I don't think that would compromise the strength and it'd all match up.

[@kindablue1959]

Then he would have two dimensions that don't meet spec forever. Removing more material is always the last resort, since it can't be undone. If he wants to do anything, a shim would be fine.

[@WeeklyStacker]

I see a couple ideas about the small "mistake" just to add my 2 cents in. If you still want the jaw to be resting on both surfaces you could always machine a shim to put in that space. I am a machinist and I learn a lot from you and love watching you work. Thanks for the awesome content!!!!!

[@gregworkshop5713]

MERRY CHRISTMAS👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😄

[@dilbert0815]

According the tests done on the vice the gap will have an impact. The idea is that the downforce ist distributed betten in the jaw. Now its only the down ledge and thats were the copetitor vices broke while the hardtail suceeded. How about compensate by milling the lower rest deeper and do that on both vice jaws. This will only result into a minor deviation of the jaw height, but restore the toughness of the construction.

[@RuthlessMindset68]

Merry Christmas Adam & family!! I also think a glued in shim for the 30 thou oopsie!

[@TgWags69]

I would leave the "shelf" under the jaw in its raw cast iron look. That area is similar to the table face on an anvil. It is a sacrificial face. Many times you rest material when working or pounding vertically and it gives you extra support. If you face it off to a machined finish any small nick will make it look awful. I think just running a radius across the transition between the face cut tail and that table area to reduce stress risers would be all that would be necessary. My .02 $

[@mm9773]

A lot of people suggested that Adam should do the machining on _all_ of those overblown vices, lol. How much would each one cost in the end? Ten grand?

[@spikeypineapple552]

Realistically if he could use the CNC properly it would probably be cheaper than all the ops he's been through here. Material would be the killer though.

[@mm9773]

@@spikeypineapple552 Of course, although even then I don’t think he’s set up for production runs, at least not for parts that are this big.

[@utubeadrianno]

@@NotJRB What are you even talking about?

[@murkinstock]

He said he was going to use all his different machines. Not out of necessity, just for fun.

[@robertbohnenberger7888]

I’m sure he could come up with a system to machine multiple at a time on the FLEX. But I doing think he’s in the business to do mass production of stuff.

[@donteeple6124]

Adam, We all make mistakes true, it would bug the crap out of me if I left that 30 thou mistake there....my OCD would have compelled me to fix it by just dropping down that 30 thou amount on the fixed jaw step and carrying over the new base dimension to the moveable jaw side. Just saying......Great video !!!

[@johnsjunkyard]

You would have to offset the mounting holes by 30 thou upwards from that lower surface on the movable jaw carrier too so that when you make the custom jaws that this would need you can still mount them universally in either jaw carrier. Seems like a lot of work for something that is designed to handle the abuse of idiots and harsh trades, something which Adam doesn't have to worry about as he uses his tools correctly.

[@donteeple6124]

the jaws drop down that same 30 thou....and since both sides would be equal in height....the jaws swap universally....Adam is a fantastic machinist...never said or implied he wasnt.....he has more machining knowledge he's forgotten than many will ever learn...@@johnsjunkyard

[@johnsjunkyard]

@@donteeple6124 If you drill the holes to the print dimensions as it is now, then deck the surfaces to match they will end up being 30 thou higher than the print in relation to the bottom surface and the stock jaw inserts won't fit either jaw. You would require custom jaws to be made that need an offset of 0.030" to catch the mounting holes. No one said you were rubbishing him or his work bud, we're just discussing options here. Personally I'd leave it and maintain stock parts compatibility as Adam doesn't abuse his tools so this extra strength safety feature isn't necessary in his case.

[@darrendaines5244]

Machine 2 or so thou off the bottom of the actual jaw insert to give a closer fitting

[@TgWags69]

I agree. He would have to make the same adjustments on the fixed jaw so the would match, but that shouldn't be hard to do.

[@scrappy7571]

I just watched the Fireball vid where he torture tested several vices. This one is indestructible!!!

[@bryanlatimer-davies1222]

I would criticise the error, except I have just made two left-handed parts and I needed one of each !

[@OmnieStar]

Perfect timing. Came to see if the next episode was out and BAM 41mins ago! TY for the video! :D If for some reason I end up hating it, I will come edit my comment and say so. But lets be real, I wont hate it. lol

[@julianstafford7071]

I think a bit of shim stock would fill the gap?

[@a24396]

Or maybe taking the same "few thousandths" off so the lower portion matches the upper portion?

[@kricketscreations4887]

just take that little bit more of the bottom then the jaw will sit on both flats an then just match that few tho. lower on the base that little bit then its perfect jaws sit on both flats like intended then its one off the abom touch 👍👍

[@thunderstruck1078]

Exactly. Can't believe that he hasn't done that right away, I'm screaming over here :)

[@ADBBuild]

He'd have to go back and recut the fixed side jaw as well or else they wouldn't line up.

[@thunderstruck1078]

@@ADBBuildThat's a small price to pay to avoid this gap, IMO.

[@richardvanmarter8780]

Then you have to cut the static jaw to match, I agree with your fix

[@lawrencejneuser8801]

You could take a piece of solid and solder to take the difference in that shelf.

[@TheStrosso]

18:09 Showing your mistakes show amateur people that mistakes can happen to everyone and instead of being frustrated by those mistakes you can just learn from them and move on.

[@cymaz100]

Just mill the bottom face!

[@RobertGracie]

This series is really teaching me tons about how you go about making a hardtail vise!

[@KJ6EAD]

Vise, not vice.

[@elmarqo_3448]

In the slo-mo the 1.5" and the 2" end mills pulled the chip around back in to the cut some times. I've never heard anyone talk about chip welding with cast iron. Can you talk about what can cause the chip to cling like that?

[@4pawsforge273]

You're awesome! Thank you again for sharing ALL of your journeys and in the last video some were saying use this or that machine. I am a good student and pay attention. You said you were going to use ALL of your machines on this video. I say use them all! Merry Christmas! Stay awesome!