Harley Benton DC guitar kit assembly instructions, test and review

Harley Benton DC double cut / Gibson SG guitar kit assembly, test and review. This is a follow on from the original unboxing of the Harley Benton DC guitar kit.
My Harley Benton SC / Gibson SG videos page - www.ebooks4guit...
This Harley Benton kit is a Gibson SG style guitar kit, however Harley Benton call it a DC guitar kit which stands for double cut. They also make a Les Paul style kit which they call an SC or Single Cut DIY guitar kit. The fact that it's a kit means it's an unfinished guitar that has all the parts to put together to create a complete electric guitar. The kit is complete with all the parts you need and ready to be constructed, however the wood for the body is bare and unfinished. Because the body is bare and unfinished you can choose how to finish the guitar off to make it your own.
I found a few interesting things out as I was building this guitar and testing it and I recommend you watching this video if you are thinking of buying one of these guitars. I try to stick rigidly to the instructions to build this guitar to make sure it is possible to build the guitar with the provided parts and instructions.
I have already done an unboxing and review of this guitar which you can find here;
Unboxing and review - • Harley Benton DC guita...
Because this video became too long to include all the details you will find these videos useful towards finishing the guitar off;
putting strings on a DC/Gibson SG style guitar - • how to change strings ...
How to set intonation on a guitar - • How to adjust intonati...
If you want to see more guitar videos please visit my site;
www.ebooks4guit...
If you are interested in buying a guitar kit take a look in my Amazon landing page;
www.amazon.co....

[@prodevus]

Thanks for keeping in mind all the restrictions that young people and people without a good working space face! Great show of empathy.

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you very much . . you are the first person to even recognize that fact . . 😊

[@daviddragan610]

You need to do a light sanding in between varnish coats to smooth out the bumps which are typically called “orange peel”. You want to keep the surface as smooth as possible because the more layers the bigger the bumps get. Then use very fine grit wet paper to give it a final sanding and start polishing !

[@williamdon3442]

I was thinking that. Wet sanding right???

[@andresilvasophisma]

Not an expert here but I think you're meant to slightly sand it between varnish layers. I tried this once at home and it was ok, but it was in something that didn't required it to be extra smooth like a guitar. Also, one thing worth mentioning to people who might want to try this is to shield the electronics cavity before installing them.

[@bluesteelworx]

I remember using steel wool between coats on a varnish project years ago, also Dampen to raise the grain and light sand and allow to dry before first coat.

[@privateislandice]

Both are good suggestions. I've been watching videos in preparation for doing my first build, and I've only seen one vid that showed them using shielding paint in the electronics cavity. Even they didn't shield the interior side of the cover plate. It seems like an obvious improvement for only a few dollars.

[@stevenmaguire6340]

I done this a couple of years ago, same DC Kit. All ok apart from one of the bridge screws missing, but Thomann sent me an additional screw. I finished mine in red nitrocellulose and clear nitro. Also I added a headstock detail using a print out and sellotape with water trick, worked great! The Bigsby on your guitar is an excellent idea and the guitar looks great!

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you . . yours sounds really nice, the red sounds a bid Jimi Page. Thomann are really good when it comes to customer support and replacing things quickly, I had a broken volume knob that was replaced very quickly . . 😊

[@sahanulgen7214]

Dear Sir, I owe you a thank you!!!! Your suggestion of acrylic lacquer was spot on! I went with a clou brand wood stain soluble in water, I applied it as two layers and on top I sprayed 3 layers of acrylic lacquer and I am done with the paint job. It looks like how I want. Of course it has some imperfections here and there but that was expected with my level of experience. Thank you so much!

[@guitar-academy]

Fantastic! and you will have learned a lot from your project . . that's really great 😊

[@pdallaglio]

The video is perfect! It allowed us to set up the guitar in a few hours being absolute beginners! Thank you so much!

[@guitar-academy]

That's great . . thank you 😊😊

[@shanewatters9251]

For wood finishing beginners or non professionals I think shellac is a great option, it's very forgiving, cleans up with denatured alcohol, builds up quickly and works well as a base coat primer for other finishes.

[@guitar-academy]

Great advice . . 😊

[@richardreed7764]

Like the two coats also. Give it a slight sand then change out your stain coat to a clear varnish coat and sand between coats.Option two use stain varnish you started out with to two coats sand slightly and spray one coat of vinyl sealer the use lacquer product. Vinyl sealer is a finishers friend when in doubt what the coating is on something prefinished and anything will adhere to vinyl sealer.

[@guitar-academy]

great tips . . thanks 😊

[@samwalker7567]

Watching your video, the technique you were using and the finish you were after, I can't help but think you'd have had a much better experience with wood dye for the colour, followed by protecting and coating the wood using French polish which is shellac based, rather than what I presume is a polyurethane based varnish. French polish is much thinner and much smoother, so adding coats increases the shine and lustre, where adding more coats of varnish just tends to make it thick and lumpy - the very problem you highlight here. Your application technique itself - lots of layers applied using a cloth in a circular motion, is the essence of French polishing anyway. Yes, the end result might be more fragile but if you were concerned then a final single coat of poly varnish would protect it. In my local hardware shop, both these products are located next to the varnish, and they're readily available with no age restrictions as far as I'm aware. You can even get decent pre-mixed French polish from the same brand as the varnish you used.

[@noi5emaker]

Great advice :) I've used tung and danish oils and they work beautifully. My first guitar was finished with tung oil and it looked great, plus it was easy to do.

[@guitar-academy]

Over time I need to try all these great suggestions I'm reading . . 😊

[@mcannon749]

GCH Guitar Academy You should also use a wood filler/sanding sealer if you have to sand off the poly sealant that was applied at the factory or if the kit does not have a seal coat on it already.

[@lightningslim]

Personally, I like the wood to look like wood, rather than being plastic glossy "perfect." So I have used boiled linseed oil to finish my efforts.

[@guitar-academy]

@@lightningslim yes . . me too . . 😀 How does the linseed oil behave over time ?

[@jan_the_man]

Without this video me and my dad would have made a lot more mistakes. Thanks!

[@guitar-academy]

I'm really glad it helped . . Thank you 🙂

[@michaelcantral7234]

I made my living as a weed finisher and I would firstly sand down from 240 grit to 600 grit. Next use either grain filler or sanding sealer but don’t use wood filler. Wipe off the surplus before it dries and repeat the sanding. Leave it to harden for a couple of hours. The best finish would probably be French polish, but if you’re not skilled at it, go for gloss varnish. Finally apply up to 6 coats of varnish if that’s your choice. Leave each coat to dry for about 6hours, and be sure to rub down between coats with 1200 grit wet and dry, being sure to wipe off with a damp cloth after each coat. When you achieve the required finish stop sanding and give it 24 hours to dry. Now you can make a living as a varnisher.

[@guitar-academy]

That's good advice and I will be trying it . .

[@bolerdweller]

I know lots of guitar players that are weed finishers too

[@idiotburns]

yup thats it, no need to type

[@JBS160]

I have finished a lot of weed in my day. I quit some time ago...

[@boofert.washington2499]

I just finished some weed

[@patrickkem689]

Hello friend I have really enjoyed watching your video. There’s nothing like trial and error for the best experience. I have worked with varnish before and I’ll share with you my experience. If you like what are you noticed with working with varnish is after you have put your coats on allowing adequate drying time you get to where you want it to be as far as color wise as far as shine . No I would like to ask you have you ever worked with wet sanding? It’s when you take various grits of polishing paper starting at 800 grit, 1000 grit 1500 grit 2000 grit 2500 grit. all the way up to about 10,000 grit that is so you will take the varnish that is already on and you will level it. It’s also referred to as level sanding. Be sure to put a little bit dishwashing soap in your water no more than a drop or if you have it on hand Naptha also works very very well for that task after you have done that wipe it off with a cotton rag that is lint free and clean. After that take a mild rubbing compound I like 3M but over there in the UK I’m sure you have your products that are the equivalent, or perhaps even better and then put an amount on that and take buffing pads are use a small electric buffing machine like you would use to buff out your automobile and I bring that up to various polishing degrees as well after you’ve done that you will need to put on some polishing paste pretty much any type of automotive paste as long as it is of good quality repeat the same technique as you did with the rubbing compound and just use your talent and allow yourself to learn as you go and from that point on, you will have a body that you will have to wear sunglasses when you look up on it. I hope this helps you in someway carry-on it’s a very expensive obsession, but so much fun. Cheers.

[@guitar-academy]

Yes I'm familiar with that method, which you've explained really well 😊 Thank you. The point of this video was to see if the guitar could be built just by obeying the provided instructions in the box and on the lacquer tin. I think the exercise proved you can, but it would be better using techniques like the one you described.

[@oldcodger4371]

I did a tele Kit with Tru oil and wet sanded between each coat which was about 6 coats. After final coat. I wet sanded at 500, then 1000, then 2000, and finally 4000. After that wax and buff. My Tele looks like a dream. If you're not willing to put in the extra work then don't be surprised with less than stellar results.

[@guitar-academy]

very true . . and with Tru oil the finish is very tough, which is a bonus

[@barrywebber100]

Very nice job, I liked the finish of the body and it sounded great! Nice personalisation with the Bigsby. Thanks for posting.

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you very much . . and thank you for watching 😊

[@PinataOblongata]

Use sanding sealer before your first coat, and give a light sand and wipe down after the sealer and in between each successive coat of varnish - might have helped get you the finish you were after. Alternatively you could have used a stain and then layered on clear-coat.

[@rbenm]

You are so much better. Wow it's amazing the knowledge you have on the subject matter.

[@adammaher6962]

Ha

[@rbenm]

@jacktheripped you have no authority

[@wesjames6060]

I'm a little late to the party here I see but I just ordered this kit and can't wait for it to get here. At first I was going for the Tele kit but completely changed my mind seeing the finish you were able to get with this model you inspired me to go for a very similar look. Can't wait to get building and playing my very first SG!

[@guitar-academy]

I've still got this guitar and I love the look too . . 😊😀

[@ianferguson6136]

Nice video ! Even on quality timber, grain filler is a must before finish is applied otherwise any varnish will build up in invisible hairline cracks. Go over the whole body with the filler and sand with fine grit wet and dry and repeat this at least twice more. Then use a wood stain to acheive colour of choice. Type of varnish you used is totally unsuited as it will over time turn a dirty brown mess and probably peel. Clear acrylic or polyester lacquer is the way to go. I have used quality rattle cans of car top coat with perfect results. Trick is to take time and apply several light coats ( at least 8-10) with very light knocking back between coats. Then two final heavier coats without sanding. Leave to dry for at least a week then buff with a lambswool mop. Alternatively your friendly local garage will probably spray it for you in one hit for about a tenner ! Sam Walker rightly suggests French Polishing (no such thing as French Polish however - it's a process not a material) will give a wonderful finish and in fact was widely used in the 19th Century for stringed instruments but fell out of favour because of its softness and sensitivity to low heat, moisture and alcohol. Great if you are just going to hang it on a wall ! Play it regularly however and it will quickly look like your cat has done River Dance on it ! Hope my comments help.

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you for taking the time to leave great tips . . 😊

[@minkorrh]

Just my two cents, but with a Bigsby, I'd toss the original bridge and put a nice quality roller bridge in. You don't want to drag those strings across that cheap knifepoint bridge and expect tuning stability. That being said, you've played it...how is it for stability?

[@guitar-academy]

hmm . . you should have watched the video because I don't leave the original bridge on. Watch 36:08 onward

[@SydneyDrums]

I wondered what Christopher Eccleston was up to after Dr. Who

[@HowlinAndyDE]

lmao i thought the same

[@guitar-academy]

I wish I was 🙂

[@guitar-academy]

kzbin.info/aero/PLIQJcXCYbgO2q9hDUBT0E5z1JZDk3bowI

[@brianmi40]

When putting in those neck screws, note that the screwdriver is a bit small in the cross head. This risks rounding them out or stripping them. use a screwdriver that fits fully to the width and maximum depth to best drive the screws.

[@guitar-academy]

Yes you're right, the screw driver was wrong for the job 🤔

[@monmixer]

Those pick ups have great sustain even at low volume. I have been thinking about buying on of these. the 3 pick up model assembled but it would nice to have the roller bridge and bigsby

[@guitar-academy]

I was surprised how good the guitar was and the fact that you get to decide on things like pickups, finish and roller bridge makes it perfect for someone wanting that guitar that is just for them . . . 😊😊

[@mdadtka]

I bought a BEX from Amazon. The only issue I had was with the wiring. Not much guidance. I had to use my intuition and look at many, many videos. I realized that you can wire it three different ways depending on the type of sound you want. The holes inside the body weren't big enough to pass the switch through, so I had to unsolder it and resolder it to fit. As far as the finish goes, I used Crystaylac and put on about 20 coats until I was happy. I had to do a lot of nick fixing. But again, in the end, I was happy. I haven't finished the wiring yet but it'll soon be done.

[@guitar-academy]

That sounds like something not recommended for an absolute beginner or a kid. The point of this video was to do it directly form the instructions with the minimum of change to see if a beginner could do it and I came to the conclusion (for this kit) an absolute beginner could put it together (just). 🤔

[@Lespaul13100]

Not a bad job with the varnish. Gives the guitar a sort of antique look. I like it! Cheers!

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you very much . . 🙂

[@stewarttomkinson3356]

Yeah, I build a trap from scratch and I ordered all the parts separately and I did the varnish thing in a reddish and it’s so thick on there and shiny and it don’t look right. I’m thinking of stripping it down paint it white with black around the edges going

[@guitar-academy]

I guess every build is a learning experience . . 😊

[@PastelComGini]

I tip that I read about but never tried: lubricate the screws with beeswax polish, candle wax, petroleum jelly or silicone spray before screwing. Do you think that it would have some side effect for not being water based?

[@guitar-academy]

I don't know but it would make a good video to compare the methods, don't you think 😀

[@alexevans7916]

I have not read all the comments so maybe it has been covered..check out "French polishing"..You apply a coat dry it then sand it, add another coat, dry it, sand it, do as many coats as you wish...the high surfaces are sanded be k while the low spots fill eventually you have a nice flat surface needless to say on the final coats use a very fine paper...the final surface is like glass.

[@guitar-academy]

Yes, this is the most common advice and seems to be the clear winner. . . 😊

[@Mandobird1]

Very cool build, and installing the Bigsby was a top customisation. A satin finish would definitely have given it a nice worn in patina over time.

[@guitar-academy]

Thanks 👍 eww . . satin finish, not my cup of tea I'm afraid . . but good option . . 😊

[@sean1121970]

As you said- acrylic lacquer is car paint. So to get a high gloss, smooth finish you need to wet sand with 1200 grade paper to get it even then use cutting compound on it. This will bring it up like glass if you do it properly. You can use car polish after cutting to enhance the shine and protect the surface.

[@guitar-academy]

good tip . .😊

[@raspberryjuiceentertainmen719]

His voice is so nice and calming I’d love for him to read a book he should do professional voiceover work imo

[@guitar-academy]

That's really nice of you to say . . 🙂🙂🙂

[@shivanjamal1375]

He'd be a really good radio host

[@guitar-academy]

@@tubeoftheviper7779 Yes I would agree that the screw should go smoothly through the body, but this build is part of a review to see if the guitar would go together just following the instructions. There's a lot I would do differently when putting a guitar together, but I wanted to establish (in a video) if the guitar would go together as is, following the instructions. 😊

[@guitar-academy]

@@tubeoftheviper7779 Thank you very much . . good luck with your build . . 😊

[@free-birdrocker8809]

LOL!Hahhahaha!

[@karlingestensland2538]

Thanks for an excellent tutorial. So much better than Thomann's manual. Saved the Sunday!

[@guitar-academy]

You're welcome! thank you 😊

[@xyrius]

If you put on the couple of first coats(2-3) of varnish with a high grit sandpaper (600+) you won't have any problem. At the end you could get a mirror shine with 000 or 0000 steel wool and a polishing compound.

[@guitar-academy]

Great tip . . thanks 😊

[@waadgaad2024]

Hey bud, something you can do to smooth that finish, is taking regular white printer paper, and sanding the surface with it. It friction shines it

[@guitar-academy]

interesting . . .

[@skyline2601]

This video is very relaxing. I wanted to buy the Les Paul type Single cut kit from Harley Benton but I might get this instead.

[@guitar-academy]

At the end of the day it might be down to availability, as they had run out of the double cut for a while. I haven't looked if they've got them back in stock yet. . .

[@manulius]

You just pretty much made the guitar I've been thinking of making. SG with a Bigsby is love.

[@guitar-academy]

It's a nice instrument style and not very common . . you're the first person who likes it too . . lots of people don't like the Bigsby mod 😀

[@manulius]

Bigsby is my definate fav. Looks neat, feels neat to use.

[@guitar-academy]

@@manulius agreed . . . sounds smooth and cool as well . . 😀

[@johnkirkpatrick1778]

It is important that the holes for the neck screws in the guitar body are drilled out to be the same size as the un-threaded shank of the neck screws, or the maximum diameter of the threaded part of the screws, whichever is the largest: if you don't check this there is a strong possibility that the screw threads will cut into the body wood, forcing the neck very slightly away from the neck pocket, and preventing it from seating properly. Not too loose; just wide enough to allow the neck screws to be inserted easily down to the back of the neck, without any wobble. Also, the holes in the neck really need to be the same diameter as the solid centre of the threaded part of the screw: you do NOT want the fit to be so tight that you have to force the screws in using excess force! The neck holes should be drilled just very slightly less deep than the part of the neck screw which will be screwed into them (remember that the very tip of the screws will be pointed). If you have a lot of difficulty in screwing them fully tight, there is definitely something wrong with the diameter of the screw holes! This is important, you should never have to wait until the wood expands to allow the screws to be tightened all the way! This is a definite recipe from breaking a screw if you ever needed to remove the neck: believe me, removing a broken screw is not fun, especially if it has broken off level with the back of the neck!

[@guitar-academy]

Yes all true, and good advice . . This video is the continuation of the review and therefore the point of this video was to see if the guitar could be put together straight out of the box using the instructions and existing parts without having to drill or alter anything. Even though the guitar did go together OK, your point is spot on and I didn't stress it enough in the video but the guitar really needed a little modification to make it fit together perfectly.

[@lohikarmi235]

I've used diluted wood filler for sealing the grain before. When sanded back it is mostly not visible under a clear coat

[@guitar-academy]

that's a great tip . . thank you 😊

[@Jerkyboy1973]

Wet sand with 600 grit till perfectly flat. Tack with tac cloth.. 1 more nice coat you will have what you want. Good job hope this helps

[@guitar-academy]

Thanks for the tips! they're very helpful 😊😃

[@davidcole5183]

Did you use steel wool between coats? That's how my dad taught me to get a lovely gloss finish with spar varnish on mahogany trim on our little sailboat we built together

[@guitar-academy]

not on this guitar, but steel wool has been suggested by someone else in the comments as well so I will try it. 😊

[@GeraldBoyClassical]

You should have used (Tru Oil) finish after sanding the wood down to 800 grit or or more. You don't have a spray booth like the Factories use. Violine makers use this product, and I have used it on Classical guitars which I have built.

[@JTHelectronics]

I work in a small guitar shop and the owner swears by the tru oil method, it's really difficult to screw it up, looks and feels great too

[@guitar-academy]

I think I will try it on the next kit . .🙂

[@johnnyrandom100]

I built a T-Type kit. For the body, I used Danish Oil, six coats. It looks great. It is an Ash body.

[@guitar-academy]

that sounds nice . . 😊

[@rickrodgers7805]

your first problem is you didnt use a sanding sealer on that wood. Mahogany needs to have a sanding sealer to fill the grain. Second, you should have sanded inbetween coats of varnish to level the finish. Also, you sand between coats of lacquer to keep it level and add depth to the finish. Finally you wet sand the clear and buff it with compound to a super high gloss finish.

[@guitar-academy]

thanks for the tips . .

[@nowherebrain]

I just started watching the video, but I was wondering if there are any issues due to the lack of shielding??? I'm thinking of getting one of these, but before I do I want to have all that I need on hand..like shielding paint, better tuners etc...I do have spoke shaves and scrapers and most any other woodworking tool I may need, but my major concern is the shielding..I would have to buy special paint for that...or glue in some tin foil or something...

[@guitar-academy]

Yes, it would be a good idea to buy some shielding, especially if you want to avoid noise 😊

[@nowherebrain]

@@guitar-academy I assumed, just needed clarification, thank you.

[@carlturlington4847]

Your playing adds credence to to the instrument at hand. Thanks.

[@guitar-academy]

thank you very much 😊😃

[@gregrayner3146]

nice video man, i wld suggest grain filling it first n then a light sand between coats of the tain & varnish n then wet sanding from like 600 to start all the way down to like 2000, that might help next time, keep up the great work

[@guitar-academy]

Thanks for the great tips 😃

[@Kcd16]

This seems like a decent guitar. I’ve never built a guitar and I’m a complete beginner. You mentioned the neck being big, is there a guitar kit you would advocate for if price isn’t an option ? And is there a better beginner kit guitar for around the same price ? Great video, straight and to the point and no background music. Keep up the great work.

[@guitar-academy]

Sorry for the delay I was hoping to review a more expensive kit, but it just isn't happening yet . . hopefully soon . .

[@ThrashRebel]

To chime in regarding neck sizes, you’ll find wider necks (50-52mm) on classical guitars, but that isn’t a bad thing. I studied classical and Flamenco. I actually prefer a wider neck. Regarding thickness, if the back is too round it can feel odd to some. If you have a wide neck that is too round/thick for you, it might feel even more odd. I prefer Jackson-style necks because they seem a little wider than Fender and Gibson necks and they are a modern, thin feel. My suggestion is to go to a local shop and play various guitars, take note of the way the neck feels in your hands, your ease of fretting, et cetera. Look up the ones that feel the most comfortable. You’ll find neck specs. You can base your comfort zone around those widths. But, remember, staying in your comfort zone offers no challenges. Also, various makes have various tones. If you want to get various tones, naturally, without coloring them with effects to emulate a certain model, you might want to try playing on necks that aren’t as “natural feeling” in your hands. For example, Inbought various guitars for specific purposes (e.g., a hollow body, a Telecaster) to go with my compliment of Jacksons.

[@okiedoak201]

I watched the complete series and you did a very good and comprehensive review....the sound seems very good for a kit ....the bigsby is a nice touch..

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you very much 😊😊

[@willmorrison1022]

Your problem finish wise is that you are playing with an open pore wood, which needs to be filled first, then sanded down and flattened. You started off right, with your sanding, but then you needed to replace that filler that the factory had put on. so you put filler on, let it sit, and scrape off the excess, then let it dry. do that a couple of time, usually, and the surface will be flat. a little touch up with some sanding and you're ready for color, then gloss top coats. THEN, sand that down so it's got no bumps, going through the grits of sandpaper, then polish and buff out for the gloss finish you're looking for. A good finish is a LOT of work.

[@guitar-academy]

Good advice

[@NeckarPirate]

Considering how inexpensive Harley-Benton guitars are complete, do you think that it was worth the cost/effort to build it yourself? You didn't appear to make any upgrades (pickups, pots, locking tuners, etc...), which is what I would expect folks to do with build kits. I understand that ceramic vs alnico pickups are a matter of taste and you may have been okay with the stock HB equipment, but that makes this a good basis for whether or not you felt it was worth the effort. Just curious. Cheers and thanks for the video.

[@guitar-academy]

Good question and one that's been missed by most. The whole point of this video was to be the continuation of the review I did, so really I shouldn't have even put the Bigsby on. That's why I stress the use of the instructions all the way through, I wanted to prove or disprove that the guitar would be usable straight out of the box. As I said in the review video the kit is a not good value if you want a cheap guitar because the factory finished one is only a few pounds more. However for a student of guitar to learn the basics of guitar construction these kits are worth every penny. I've got other kits I've reviewed and have got to build, but not because I want to . . part of my job is to find out if they are buildable so that people who do want to build them will have an idea which kit is best for them. . . . Saying all that, I got a sense of satisfaction when it was all together, and it is usable. I wouldn't waste money on expensive components for a kit, I would only do that on a guitar that I knew played well and was worth spending money on.

[@NeckarPirate]

@@guitar-academy Ah, excellent, thanks for the response. I've been thinking about building vs buying, but I know my limitations (patience being one of them) so I don't think I could devote the time necessary to get the finish the way I would like. Buying an inexpensive guitar with a good finish and upgrading components would be a better solution for me right now, which is why I wanted your opinion (thanks again for that). I will, eventually, buy a kit and build my own, just for the satisfaction of doing it, but it will have to be at a time when I can spend the proper amount of time to do it properly. I'll no doubt circle-back to your video when that time comes. Cheers!!

[@luvstellauk]

I'd say buying one ready made was more cost effective but building your own from a kit is far more enjoyable and satisfying, I built a Telecaster Kit last year and learnt so much about finishing, upgrading and setting up guitars.

[@rockape1954]

With the kit I built I found it best to level the frets before fitting the neck, as they were a bit out when I checked them with a fret rocker.

[@guitar-academy]

This is the continuation of a review, so I was testing if the guitar would go together with out changes. Happily this played well without fret leveling. 🙂

[@trus3683]

Just so you know, neck screws aren't meant to be threaded through the body - only the neck. I would have drilled the body holes big enough for them to fall through so that they can pull the neck in properly. That's most likely the reason it was so hard screwing them in, or like you said they were also drilled too small.

[@guitar-academy]

True, but you missed the point of the video . . this is the continuation of a review, so I wanted to see if you could put the kit together without having to make modifications yourself. That's why I make such a point of the fact I was following the instructions.

[@cresshead]

excellent video and i agree the 1st coat looked best in retropect re varnish finish.

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you. . . I have some of that varnish left and I think I will try that on a cigar box project I want to do. So hopefully we are both right . . . 😊😊

[@kevincuthbert3058]

Thank you for posting and your observations, it all helps. Your wiring seemed to work fine but people sat that on the single cut model some de soldering is necessary as the volume is either on or off. This crops up in many reviews as a known problem so am puzzled but easily fixed presuming one has a soldering iron. Many thanks again...nice job.

[@guitar-academy]

Glad it helped, I just put it together as it was, no modifications to the wiring at all and it worked fine, but this isn't the single cut model . . 🙂🙂

[@GaryT85.]

That looks great. Aside from the tooling marks - what's the rest of the kit quality like..?

[@guitar-academy]

It's good . . see my review kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y5m4da2FptN8jqM

[@jeremydriggers308]

What would a guitar equivalent to this cost, already assembled? Basically how much are you saving by going this "Do it yourself route"? And is it worth it?

[@guitar-academy]

The difference in price between this and a finished guitar is nothing, and in fact it might cost more when paint or varnish is taken into account. If you want to understand guitar or want to create your own unique guitar then yes it is well worth it, but if you're only interested in playing the guitar then no.

[@jeremydriggers308]

@@guitar-academy Thank you!

[@tonyt.1596]

To get a great finish it might help to sand in between coats with a very fine grit. Then polish it on the last coast with wet and dry going with finer and finer grit.

[@guitar-academy]

Yes, you are right . . that suggestion is the most commonly made in the comments . . 😀

[@benleese7297]

Loving the content mate and, to be honest, I like the finish you finally got but the first coat was probably best. I'm looking at doing the Strat kit that HB do. I'm going for a relic matte black. Should I laqure over the matte paint, or leave it? After I get the relic finish I want, I want it to then age naturally.

[@guitar-academy]

Thank's, I like the finish too. It's really hard to relic and have it look real and natural. I hope you get the results you want, but even if you don't just putting a kit together you learn a lot, I know I did . . 😀😀

[@williampereira8868]

great video well done my concern is that don't you want a tight fit for the neck to fit in the pocket to me it seemed a little to loose

[@guitar-academy]

Nope. I could pick the guitar body up with the neck with no screws in it. Any tighter and it would have caused cracks in the wood as it expands and contracts over time.

[@williampereira8868]

@@guitar-academy ep ok i get it

[@frdradio]

Nice vid. Just a thought, it's better to make the holes for the neck plate large enough so the screws don't thread tightly through the body but pass through and thread into the neck itself. Helps make sure the neck angle is correct.

[@guitar-academy]

Yes, agreed, but this was the continuation of a review and I wanted to see if the guitar would go together without modification . . 😀

[@DanGleabols]

I've never used it myself, but I've always thought Wudtone an interesting option as a non spray finish.

[@guitar-academy]

After reading your comment I looked it up . . it looks good doesn't it. 😀

[@wideyxyz2271]

Just checked them out after seeing your post. Going to have to give it a go. Thanks for the info guys....

[@maxostlund9334]

What type of wood is the body? I can't find the DC kit at thomann or any other store anymore... Also really nice video I like your voice!

[@guitar-academy]

Sorry, I can't remember what wood it is now. They come and go from Thomann, just check back in from time to time because they come back in stock. Thank you about the voice, that's nice of you . . 😊😊

[@maxostlund9334]

@@guitar-academy ok cool thanks for the tip! Again great video!

[@guitar-academy]

@@maxostlund9334 Thank you . . Oh I found out what the wood is 'Rengas', I hope that helps. 😊

[@Big-A-Russel]

You have to sand between every coat with super fine grit papper

[@guitar-academy]

great tip 🙂

[@derekcasey9265]

Yep. I did a les Paul type with tru oil. I sanded with 1500 grit between all 14 coats. Smooth as a baby's bottom, highly glossy and amazing.

[@killingthemsoftly568]

What the hell is papper?

[@droses1600]

Even before I saw this video, I was thinking about getting a HB kit. Now I've made up my mind for a DC as I've never even played a real Gibson SG. And I will aim for the deep oak colour and finish you achieved.

[@droses1600]

One question though: the only customisation I would make is to put a simple logo (probably my first name or initials) on the front of the headstock. How best to achieve that? A marker pen or Sharpie, covered with a few coats of clear varnish??

[@guitar-academy]

Glad I could help! 😊😊

[@guitar-academy]

I'll be doing a video on options for that . . but I wouldn't use a sharpie unless you are very good with a pen. I'm not so I would have to print something . 😊

[@droses1600]

@@guitar-academy Oh, you sure did do that. I've just moved to a new city, and don't have any tools, nor a suitable place to work like a garage. Hoping I can borrow any stuff I need.

[@droses1600]

@@guitar-academy Can't wait for that vid. It's not going to be a Rembrandt, just two slightly stylised letters, or perhaps my first name in cursive script, which I'll practice on paper beforehand. I'll also do it on the headstock before fitting the machine heads so my hand is comfortable resting on it. I just want to make sure the lines are clear and defined and won't smudge with the first layer of clear lacquer.

[@bones2532]

Thanks for this nice vid! Clean sound is a little bit nosey imo, but the middle position wirh both pickups on actually sounds amazing. I also like the bigsby on it. Looks quite classy! Great job.

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you . . Yes I agree, I kept it as standard as possible and just tried to follow the instructions so it would act as part of the review, however the noise could be reduced with some screening tape. 😊 Considering the final cost it's an excellent instrument.

[@pskemster]

As a rule these finishes are spectacular. But the fine print is after a few coats let it dry and then cure. Then sand it down to knock off the high spots. From that point the process will consist of apply,dry. Sand apply. And after about 8-9 coats sand graduating the grit grades. I use a 600 grit to start wet sand of course. Then 800grit. Then I go to a 1000grit,up to 1500, and then a 2000 grit. Now after that you should be pretty smooth. After that I use a coarse rubbing compound rubbing that for an even smoother finish. Next a fine grit compound. After that you are ready to polish. Try using a good wax polish with a carnauba. There are many out there to choose from And that will also help in rubbing out any swirl marks. After that you are free to either use your choice of a spray or a wipe on Polyurethane,or a good lacquer and after you are done let dry and cure for several weeks so the finish can harden up. Building a guitar is truly a very fun and learning experience. I am certainly enjoying watching your progress. Just wish those kits came in a set neck as well. There’s a challenge! Cheers my friend!

[@guitar-academy]

Thanks for the tips . . . I have seen kits in set neck form, but not from Thomann 😊

[@ffs_auggie]

You think this kit would fit other traditional SG hardware? I wanted to do a maestro vibrola with locking tuners and roller saddle bridge

[@guitar-academy]

The tuners and bridge seem to be standard measurements, so I don't see any reason why not . . 😊

[@anthonynightingale1816]

I like the earth trick with the tubing and the brass rod 😀 excellent finish all round...AAA +++

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you very much . . 🙂🙂

[@mrivantchernegovski3869]

Some shades of brown shoe polish work well and fill up the pores of the wood as well,and good for getting that red gibson sg look,as a engineer , mechanic , I cringe at your stubby screw driver ,longer ones give you more torque and control and you get a full view of your work piece ,great videos

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you for the great tips . . I was wondering about the length of screwdriver, but now you have convinced me, I must get some longer ones. 🙂

[@mrivantchernegovski3869]

@@guitar-academy cool as

[@mrivantchernegovski3869]

@@guitar-academy Some really nice screw drivers and t handle drivers in the gun smith world that they use .

[@guitarsrcool4922]

Well I hope you don't have to return one of these HBs. They just sent me 2 of the exact same guitar. I informed them right away and now there telling me I have to take it to the Customs office and show them the receipt and get authorization basically to ship it back and I have to pay for the return shipping fee. I paid 66 bucks for 2 day shipping and it took 5 days. This is my 3rd time ordering from them, needless to say never again. Also there website says you have 30 days to return an item but they told me I have 24 days. They told me I ordered them separately so I said ' then why did they both arrive together at the same time '? No answer.

[@guitar-academy]

That's a good warning for people in the US . .

[@camilo1455]

I have read other stories about how they treat Americans badly. Must be true.

[@izzysantiago978]

I modded one with a maple veneer and set neck. Maple venner in the back to cover those eyesore holes for the neck bolts.

[@guitar-academy]

sounds like it should be nice 😊

[@izzysantiago978]

@@guitar-academy Not taking away your build which came out awesome. I just wanted to get as close to the Gibson SG as possible. And thanks.

[@guitar-academy]

@@izzysantiago978 No problem . . I wouldn't actually do I build like this normally but this was the continuation of a review so I wanted to build it just using just the instructions provided. I think I proved that it could be done, but you can make the guitar a lot better if you use additional knowledge or references. 😊😊

[@chrisgeo1642]

Wiping on product like this is a wipe on/wipe off process. You only want the as much as will soak in and wipe off any excess. You shouldn’t really see a sheen on it until you polish. Just a couple notes as I am watching I have done several kit and scratch builds. A tight neck fit is good, it is ok to use a little pressure to get it in place it shouldn’t slide easily into place because you do not want it sliding easily out of place. I would not recommend expanding the holes for the neck screws and amount of play and the screws will start to wear away at the hole and make them bigger until your neck is completely loose. Good old candle wax on the screws is the thing don’t dip them in it but just rub it around the outside so it makes it easier to screw down. I am looking at doing this same kit as a quarantine project which is why I am watching but I have drawers full of pickups, tuners and pots so I won’t be using what’s in the kit. Last thought if you place the bushings for the bridge and tail piece in your freezer for several hours before installing them on the body they will set in easier. Take directly from the freezer one at a time and put each in immediately they will have shrunk ever so slightly from the cold just enough to make them set in much easier just a tap or two with a rubber mallet. Very nice looking build and well done. I hope no one is bothered I gave my thoughts on building but I learned to do it before KZbin and made so many mistakes that I try to pass along things I have learned. Great video thank you

[@guitar-academy]

Very useful advice . . I will take use all those tips at some point in the future I'm sure . . Thank you 😊😊

[@JohnSmith-bj8gw]

Hey man awesome video! Im thinking getting this kit. I would really like to install the dront strap button on the body instead of the neck because i like metal and do all that headbanging stuff, think it would be more sturdy. Do you think its possible? Thanks!

[@guitar-academy]

They have drilled a pilot hole in the neck but that doesn't mean you need to use it. Providing the wood is hard enough on the body I don't see a problem with putting the strap button on the body. 😊😊

[@JohnSmith-bj8gw]

@@guitar-academy thanks for the reply!. Is the guitara a little neck heavy or is it pretty balanced? Cause its not like normal guitar wood.

[@guitar-academy]

@@JohnSmith-bj8gw without the Bigsby it would be but with the Bigsby it's fine, and the neck feels very chunky for my liking, but I like a thin neck . .

[@charlesharper7292]

Turned out nice. Sounds nice! What kind of wood was used for the body? I'm a bit young to know the pros and cons of a bixby, but it looks like a can opener back there. Thanks for the video. Enjoyed it.

[@guitar-academy]

The wood was supposedly mahogany but it seems very soft . .

[@charlesharper7292]

Did you sand between coats? I think this would get a better, smoother finish. " Still like the guitar."

[@jacksprat3009]

Put coat on thin, with the grain without moving brush around much After each coat of varnish dries - solid - go over with 00 steel wool until smooth as glass.

[@guitar-academy]

thanks . . sounds like a good tips . . 🙂

[@boyraisedinhell6307]

I have a stupid question, do you think adding a Floyd Rose FRX will effect the neck too much? I am worried of getting a set neck then after a couple uses either the whole neck will snap or the head stock? I guess the question is do you think it can handle the pulling tension of a whammy if used rough?

[@guitar-academy]

The neck on this guitar is as strong as any neck and probably stronger than most so NO it wouldn't effect the neck. It would be strange to put a trem system that cost more than the kit, why wouldn't you just buy a better kit in the first place ?

[@boyraisedinhell6307]

@@guitar-academy it's a project that I really wanna do for a date, I'm not sure if a Floyd is gonna be on the guitar but as an option. I am just more focused on the guitar in a way. I'm a beginner on assembling guitars I just don't wanna screw up knowing I spent $200 or more on a kit I can't fix. Just used as something to do I guess and if it goes well I wanna give it to someone I like😅

[@guitar-academy]

@@boyraisedinhell6307 The best of luck . . I bet it'll be a really nice job. The fact that you're spending time researching first, rather than rushing in says a lot 😊😃

[@nowherebrain]

1) if you strip out the wood from screwing too much, you can either put in some fine sawdust and crazy glue, or glue in a toothpick with regular wood glue and re-drill. 2) I recommend installing the bridge before the neck so you can check if the neck needs to be shimmed to align it's tilt to the bridge...with the bridge in it's middle position(height). 3) you put the pickups in correctly, but some people tend to turn one of them 180 deg...thinking the screws need to go the same direction. 4) brass is difficult to solder. and is not a great conductor, but probably enough for this use case. liked.

[@roddyfraser]

Thanks for a very clear informative video. Unfortunately, I'm a complete novice and didn't understand the earth wire section. Will that have to soldered? I don't have a soldering iron or any experience in soldering. Is it possible to assemble this guitar without any soldering? Otherwise it looks like something I could actually do. Thanks for any help or advice you can offer :)

[@guitar-academy]

No . . no soldering is necessary. I did a modification for myself so you can ignore that bit if you want. You can build this whole project without going near a soldering iron . . 😀

[@roddyfraser]

@@guitar-academy I thought I already replied to this but I can't seem to find it. Anyways, thanks again for getting back to me and hope you're well mate :)

[@taco4523]

Hello, I'm building the same model of HB guitar and just wanted to know what to do with that 30:00 earth wire sticking out of guitar? Should I just leave it or sodder it somewhere?

[@guitar-academy]

Good question. You want to make sure it comes in contact with either the bridge or tail stop so that the earth links to the strings. Most of the time you can just push the wire down a bit into the hole and then it'll be held tightly in place by the mounts when you push them in the hole. I hope this helps 😊

[@taco4523]

@@guitar-academy Oh alright, now I can stop worrying about the electrocution risk, thank you so much!

[@guitar-academy]

@@taco4523 no problem . . .😊😊

[@taco4523]

​@@guitar-academy Hey It's me again, how much of the beginning lacquer should I sand? I want to use varnish but im scared it won't stick to the wood if there's too much lacquer

[@guitar-academy]

@@taco4523 This is a good question and I honestly can't answer it with 100% accuracy. The problem is that I don't know and can't find out what sealer they put on the guitar. I've used the wood varnish in this video and cellulose spray lacquer on another HB guitar I've put together and both finishes went on fine. The only way the varnish won't stick is if it reacts with the sealer, and the only way you'll find this out is by trying a small area on the back and letting it dry. Sorry I can't be more helpful . . 🤔

[@daleturner3507]

Probably paulownia it’s extremely light and soft. The neck is maple and that’s definitely a hardwood. Overall looks pretty good.

[@guitar-academy]

It's advertised as being Rengas and they are quite a reputable company . . 😊

[@justpassingthrooo3505]

Well, i enjoyed the video. I am wondering about the soft wood which is used for the body and how some screws won't grip. Could a hole be drilled and glue a hard wood dowel work?

[@guitar-academy]

Yes potentially, but perhaps there are better kits in the same price range out there. This kit has been together now for a while and the soft wood isn't causing any issues so far apart from the marks it receives if you knock it . . 🙂

[@bluebluebluebird]

Thin with mineral sprits 3:1 then 2:1, 1:1 then pure varnish. Polish with paste wax to get high gloss and remove the orange peel

[@guitar-academy]

good tips . . 🙂

[@melvinhyman2885]

In my working with wood you can make repairs to loose screws with wood putty or in a pinch take some tooth picks an brake then off flush in the hole an then replace the screws.

[@guitar-academy]

good tips . . thanks 😊

[@MatthewJohnCrittenden]

Good stuff, I have a HB 335 copy which is great. Might give a kit a go, need a tele style in the collection. The light body doesn't appeal though, I like some heft. Good tips in the comments too.

[@guitar-academy]

Yes . . the body is too light . . but other companies make kits too, so maybe another kit . . 😀

[@harrytuttle8161]

I like SGs well enough , I'd put a set of Angus Youngs or Bare Knuckles in it and sand it smooth and slap a few coats of Tongue Oil finish on it , I feel it lets the wood breath . I love the natural wood look .

[@guitar-academy]

Thanks for sharing! yes, the open wood look is nice and very popular at the moment. 😃

[@davidfellows6250]

Yeah you have to wet sand and polish when your done. Just as if you painted. If it's been a while use some 000 steel wool and some high grade auto polish you'll love it.

[@guitar-academy]

Good advice

[@PanoramaUnion]

Turned be a beauty. How low could you set action?

[@guitar-academy]

I can't say yet because I haven't done a full setup yet, I will probably leave that for another video. But I can say the frets are really well finished so the action should go well down . . 😊

[@Meddled]

I can never get that Halfords clear lacquer to dry hard enough. Leave it to dry for a month and your thumb nail will leave an impression. It will dry enough to buff out, but it isn't a hardened 2K finish.

[@guitar-academy]

I find it goes hard if you leave it in the sun for a bit or in front of a heater, that seams to do it. Nitrocellulose is far better, but I was just making do with available. The nail marks in this were nothing to do with the finish, the wood the body is made of is soft . . really soft.

[@gw2934]

Nitro goes rock hard ,you can get it delivered for less than £10 for a 400 mil tin ,,you can colour the body with food dyes to the shade you want then build up the lacquer, ,leave it a week then buff up using a little water and wet dry paper ( avoidingvthe edges !!)from 1000 grit 1500,2000 2500 then t cut and polish

[@johnrefe]

my single cut kit has different markings on pickups , N pickup is put in bigger pickup cover that is made for bridge position adn other pickup has J on it, where do you put J? :D to be fair my N bridge pickup also was with red wire that is sort of for bridge, so now I dont even know if I have correct pickup positions :D

[@guitar-academy]

Oh, that is weird. Is there nothing in the instructions to help you ?

[@johnrefe]

@@guitar-academy well they sound More or less how they should, might switch them one day and see if its better. I had no instructions with kit, but i found them online pdf and it should be bridge. Maybe somebody put the pickup un wrong cover

[@guitar-academy]

@@johnrefe At the end of the day, it doesn't matter what's right or wrong . . it's what sounds best to you or what you like. 😃😃

[@aldoverrecchia6048]

Bonjour, à votre avis, est-il possible de modifier un peu le kit pour mettre la prise jack en face type une vrai Gibson SG ?

[@guitar-academy]

Oui, vous pouvez, mais vous aurez besoin d'outils spéciaux (une toupie) et vous aurez un trou dans la guitare où doit aller le jack. Yes you can, but you will need special tools (a router) and you will have a hole in the guitar where the jack should go.

[@corafoxyfowler]

did you not want the headstock to match at all with the aged wood finish

[@guitar-academy]

Yes that would be nice, but I plan to do a video on headstock decals so I need as many blank headstocks as possible for that . . 😊

[@TheEARLD]

Varnishing, to get a flat even finish on a guitar thin it out by 50 % on your first 3 coats, rub in between coats with fine steel wool for every layer you put on 4th coat thin by 25%. Then do a few coats full. power. Leave it to cure fully then give go in with 1500 grit and do a light wet sand and then again with 2000. Finish off with a wax coat.

[@guitar-academy]

good advice

[@droses1600]

7m24s you mention a future video for staining/varnishing a kit guitar. Did you make it? Couldn't find it...

[@guitar-academy]

I'm still behind on my checklist of videos to make. I'll be there soon . . 😊😊

[@droses1600]

@@guitar-academy OK, that's fine, but I would like to know in advance how to avoid the so-called 'mistakes' you made (although I don't think they were) as I am aiming to get exactly the same antique look you had. My kit arrives on 23rd, so guess what I will be doing instead of eating turkey and getting p***ed????😉😉😉

[@martinlouden9005]

It looks and sounds surprisingly good.

[@guitar-academy]

thank you . . 😊😃

[@spokes28]

There are many kits on the market without the sealer, buy one of those. You should not have to go through a refinishing process to put a nice stain or dye on brand new wood.

[@guitar-academy]

Yes, I agree . . and that's why I do these reviews, to make people aware of the facts when buying a new product . . Some people don't mind finishing the wood but others do. 😊

[@TariasNiniel]

Oof ... apart from that i find they could create a nicer more ergonomic "Neckjoint" for that (like on the Singecut kit) it looks actually really good, nice job. I really like the natural look on a SG bodyshape, and the grain of the wood does looks quite pleasing.

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you very much . . Yes, the neck joint needs work. When I started this build I didn't want to change anything, so it's as it would be someone really young or inexperienced with handy work. But really it needs a little bit more finishing here and there. 🙂🙂

[@matthewsalyersjr4965]

I know this is a yr old but. I made the same mistake when I built my 1st guitar but “grain filler” is the key..

[@guitar-academy]

Yes, I think you're right . .

[@brianmi40]

Didn't hear you mention or show wet sanding between each coat of lacquer... may have helped.

[@lone-wolf-1]

Great build! I really like the color. Did the Biggsby anulated the head dive?

[@guitar-academy]

I have ordered a short spring for the Bigsby, because the bar sits a bit high . . 😀

[@lone-wolf-1]

GCH Guitar Academy I ment the neckdive😊 Did it help?

[@volkerfriedritz8149]

That would be a very interesting thing to know. I heard that SGs tend to be very unbalanced (neck diving)... So, did the heavy bigsby change that? 🤔

[@guitar-academy]

@@lone-wolf-1 Sorry, too many comments to respond to, so I'm not reading through properly. Yes, when you consider that the body was very light to start with the balance is pretty good. It is heavier towards the neck, but not enough to cause dive.

[@guitar-academy]

@@volkerfriedritz8149 I think so, but to answer completely accurately I would have had to try the guitar without the trem first. The neck doesn't dive though.

[@TAVMANIAN]

Thanks for the detailed review of the steps. Well done.

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you and thanks for watching! 😊😀

[@jamessharier7529]

The cost of the guitar is phenomenal but the shipping charges prohibit purchasing it. Did anyone in the USA find a place that would ship it more reasonably?

[@guitar-academy]

Sadly shipping has gone up a lot recently, and I have heard that Thomman aren't helpful at all if you have to return the guitar. I personally have had some bad experiences recently. Similar kits can be found in America through Amazon (so I've been told) 😊

[@dragospetrisor496]

Thank you very much for the detailed assembly instructions

[@guitar-academy]

You are welcome! thank you 😃