Harley Davidson Shovelhead Motor Installation

[@creativespridgets]

The skid plate. Yet another part I didn't know existed on my '51 pan-shovel chopper, because whoever built it left it off! I'll be ordering one up. Thanks, Mike!

[@pacificmike9501]

Good idea. Thank You

[@shovel_head80]

Your years of experience shows in the great details you show us . BRAVO ZULU

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you very much!

[@steveng.6267]

As trivial as it sounds, I have scoured the internet looking for the proper installation for that skid plate and you’re the only place I found mention of it! Thank you yet again, Mike!

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you. I think the skid plate is important.

[@mikerapp8163]

The 3 hands saying brought me back some years. My dad would say a mechanic needs to evolve with an eyeball in one finger and a flashlight on another

[@pacificmike9501]

Very well put. I like that.

[@burlymugg]

greatly appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Trying to keep these things alive and every trick helps.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you. Glad to help.

[@robertdees2179]

I have to say thank you for showing the torque wrench dog bone extension. Found a set . over knighted from Granger.

[@pacificmike9501]

Cool.

[@pietervliek8848]

It's always great to find an instructional video that shows you a little bit of info you just never thought of. I've watched all your videos and found them very informative. Excellent tutorials.

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you. That's a much appreciated compliment. More to come. We're slow, but, more coming.

[@blkdgg]

Mike, I installed my Baker 6 speed transmission yesterday, in my 73 FX thanks. Another good video, it helped me.

[@pacificmike9501]

Glad it helped

[@chrisbrady-t1u]

Skid plates went the way of kick starters and hinged rear fenders on new harleys.Another fine harley mess youve gotten us into,Stan.

[@pacificmike9501]

I remember adding a bunch of skid plates on Softails that didn't come with them. I used aftermarket stainless steel ones.

[@johnmalotky5007]

Putting my '73 FX back together after 18 years in a basket. Little details have escaped my 70-year-old mind like: does the rear of the skid plate mount above or below the frame web at the bottom of the seat post...=0 Thanks a million MIke~! I couldn't find this detail anywhere else.

[@pacificmike9501]

It mounts to the outside bottom.

[@johnmalotky5007]

@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for the reply, Mike and the great video~! I figured it out watching your video and was amazed at how you started the nuts on the rear skid plate bolts with the motor already in the bike. There isn't much room in there~!

[@malloymotorsports780]

great video. Id like to add that a grade 8 or grade 9 bolt is ideal for securing the motor to the frame. I special order my grade 9 bolts.

[@pacificmike9501]

That's something I agree with. I never have problems with motor mount bolts though. I normally buy "pretty chrome, motor mount specific" bolts for their strength and appearance. Of course, quality and strength is most important, and get that motor mounted flat and in as near perfect alignment as possible. Thank you.

[@malloymotorsports780]

@@pacificmike9501 does HD offer shims for engine mounting should they be needed? keep up the great videos!!

[@pacificmike9501]

No. But the motor should sit flat on its mounts. If not, something needs correcting. Shimming should be done at transmission mounting to be sure the mainshaft of the transmission aligns side to side and up and down with the output shaft of the motor. Depending on the frame you're using, a great number of Shovelhead frames have a "sag" to the left side of the transmission mounts. Notching proper thickness washers works, as does automotive body shims, which can be found at body shops. Just suggestions. If problem is severe, a qualified shop that straightens frames is in order. They gotta be real good at it. . I have found that transmission sag to be as much as .040". Alignment is king. The motor should be mounted completely with no stress at any point, top mount shimmed to eliminate any stress' etc. Now align the trans. I hope this answers the question. Glad you like our videos. Thank you.

[@terry1967ful]

I just found your page.... love it!! bendge watching your shovel head series

[@pacificmike9501]

Welcome aboard!

[@waynesmith7527]

I know this is gonna sound crazy... I got a 1979 harley-davidson shovelhead from my neighbor and I'm putting it back together where he had it disassembled an stored away in boxes ... anyway I told him I watch a guy on KZbin named pacific Mike an it helps to know how to put a shovelhead back together and he said I know pacific mike. I said really he said yeah we usto work together his name is "Wade" .. "wade Lyman garred" is his full name ... ring a bell? Love to hear back from you .. crazy such a small world

[@chuckdennis4702]

Hi Mike was checking out your videos and was wondering when you did this one you never discussed the importance of shimming, or at least checking with a feeler gauge to determine if shimming is needed to protect against a cracked engine mount tab? You're so methodical and exact I was surprised! I would think this would be very important?? Your thoughts??

[@pacificmike9501]

Sorry 'bout that. As I learn to show these things better, they have to go from one place to another. From my hands to my brain, from my brain to my mouth. Sometimes they come out, and other times I miss explaining them thoroughly. Some things are done automatically. Doing them and explaining them are different operations. I believe I addressed shimming on the transmission installation video.

[@HambyKenneth]

@@pacificmike9501 hi Mike. I have a few questions from your videos but couldn’t figure away to send a private message. Do you have a email or know how to start a message on KZbin? Thanks!

[@froggywebb7439]

I love watching your videos. You not only show in detail the proper steps needed but also take the time to explain what and why you're doing it. Very informative and educational for a KZbin mechanic such as myself. I do have a question for you. Im in the process of overhauling my 72 FLH and as I went to remove the heads this afternoon I noticed the rear rocker box was extremely close to the down post for the seat. Almost touching the frame. Probably a piece of papers width between them. Is this clearance correct or do i have other issues that need addressing?

[@pacificmike9501]

There are some very close tolerances there. Notice, when you pull the heads, they only have to lift a little to remove them. Be sure to run the pistons down before removing heads. Look into the sparkplug holes and see the pistons go down.

[@froggywebb7439]

@@pacificmike9501thank you for replying so quickly. Yes sir. Running the pistons down was one of the first steps I took before loosening the head bolts. One thing I remembered from watching your videos...Is it possible to loosen the motor and trans bolts from the frame and try to fudge everything forward about a 1/4" to allow for more clearance between the back of the rocker box and the seat post?

[@alfajuj]

The factory installed the front bolts pointing up for some reason (front bolts had the nuts on the top, and the rear bolts had the nuts on the bottom). I like to start the nuts on the back of the belly pan before I put the motor in, too.

[@pacificmike9501]

I believe a lot of things are done depending on ease of the first time assembly at the factory. Ever notice the way rear axles are put into late model bikes from the right side? If you switch it around, you won't have to pull your pipes by the side of the road to remove your rear wheel. Good stuff. Thank you.

[@shrop]

Another helpful video. Thank you.

[@pacificmike9501]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Manuel-np7dp]

This seems so much easier to work on then it was to install an engine on my truck

[@pacificmike9501]

It's a lot easier on my body.

[@nwestrn4865]

I all enjoy your videos. A question though. How do you assure yourself that the motor is bolted square and parallel in the frame? Also after the motor and transmission are bolt together via. the primary, they are in line with the rear wheel sprocket?

[@pacificmike9501]

Be sure you install the inner primary with NO STRESS on it. Then, tighten it down. Step by step, tighten things to make the torques all come out even. You can check your engine shaft with your trans shaft with a perfectly straight bar or a piece of plate glass. I think we'll need to address this more.

[@cycocycle]

I was wondering the same. In the primary installation video the engine is tightened down first which makes sense. Just trying to figure out how to align the motor at this point. Otherwise keep up the great work. You can't buy this kind of knowledge.

[@papagaiogaioladomato]

Like the way you explain how to do it the right way.

[@pacificmike9501]

We're doing our best. Glad you find it helpful.

[@dannysmith4495]

Hi Mike thanks for the awsome videos. Ive torqued my rear motor mounts and I've got a gap that needs to be shimmed on the front. Are washers good or should I use something else.

[@pacificmike9501]

Cutting shims that spread the pressure over the entire mating surface is a much better idea, in order to spread the weight of the engine. Get the thickness right and you got it. By doing that, you don't cause indentations to form in the bottom of your engine cases.

[@dannysmith4495]

@@pacificmike9501 that's makes sense. The measurements on either side have a differnce of just less than 1/16. I found some chevy body shims that have a wide flat profile. Thanks for the help.

[@Evad138]

Great videos. I am really enjoying them. I was always told to use shims if needed when mounting the motor because if it isn't perfectly flush with the motor mounts you could crack your cases. What say you?

[@pacificmike9501]

Mounting your entire drive train good and solid is mandatory. Alignment is king. Everything solid and mounted with no stress makes for a great motorcycle. Much smoother. Retightening on a regular basis keeps it that way. Enjoy!

[@vtwinbarblaster]

Tighten the back two bolts, then shim and tighten the front two.

[@PatDevlin407]

Mike, After watching your videos, I have become a fan of the Shovelhead motor. I've thought of buying a second bike and I'm considering a 1970's FXE. Is there a year or model that is more sturdy or dependable, considering I'm not the master mechanic that you are?

[@pacificmike9501]

I'm just an ol wrench. But, I would prefer early 78 and back. The transmission is much nicer.

[@PatDevlin407]

@@pacificmike9501 Wow, you do reply fast. So I will start my search for my pre 1978 shovelhead. For the record, I may never crack open an engine, but I love watching your videos and understanding the inner workings of the engine and all the systems of the motorcycle. Keep up the great work, and I can't wait to see the project bike completed.

[@therecanbeonlyonechris5019]

Thanks for the tutorial Mike

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you.

[@ingarbyum2562]

Hi Mike, I do like your very informative videos with meticolius attention to details. Very on point! I own a -77 shovelhead and I have noticed that when I snugg up the two rear motormount bolts I experience a gap of 0.4mm at my rigt fwd motormount…. Do you shim this? Just to avoid tension in the lower end housing?

[@pacificmike9501]

Yes. But, depending on how it sits, you'll have to be the judge of how and where. Check those mounts to see if they're in the same plane. Remember, you want the motor sitting flat on its mounts (no stress). In a perfect world, the output shaft of the motor is parallel to the output shaft of the transmission, which is parallel to the rear axle. All of these shafts are parallel and in the same plane. That is, of course, perfection. You can include the swingarm shaft in that too. Getting those motormounts solid and flat is way important.

[@nigelpollard1195]

Hi Mike. Are those stock Disc glide wheels? I’m assembling a 1983 FXDG and they look the same as the rear on mine. Great videos btw. Very helpful. 👍

[@pacificmike9501]

The rear was used on a couple of models including the disc glide. This pair of front and rear wheels came off of a 2003 Screamin' Eagle Roadking.

[@pathilly2371]

As usual great tutorial

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you.

[@dammitdon4123]

Mike you set that motor in and never had to shim anything. How common is it to have to use shims? I'm helping my friend with his restore and the motor is level in front or back depending on which way you tilt it. Gauge shows about .023 on one corner. Any feed back on that young man?

[@pacificmike9501]

Sure, Shim as needed. When it's all done and down flat, you're going to want the sprocket shaft on the motor to be in the exact same plane and be parallel to the transmission mainshaft. When a Harley is smooth and a real pleasure because of it, it's because the person who put it together took the time and effort to align things properly and relieve the stresses. Certain years and models have little inconsistencies in them and dealing properly makes all the difference.

[@kenyaskornik1785]

Hey Mike, A touch late to the party… Do you recommend shimming the motor on an aftermarket rigid frame? I have read some people say no and others saying yes… Thanks in advance

[@pacificmike9501]

If that's what it takes to level the motor and have it fit evenly at all four points, you bet. Look through the videos. There is over 250 of them. Find the ones where I install the Shovelhead motor in to my bike. You're using a rigid frame. Realize where the "center of your universe" is at. What I mean is the difference between an average build and a good one is a matter of alignment with all of the shafts. That means the output shaft on the motor must match the plane and alignment of the trans mainshaft and the rear axel.

[@kenyaskornik1785]

@@pacificmike9501 Sounds good, I’ll be swinging by the parts store today! Thanks for the advice!

[@brentchalmers1436]

Hi Mike! I have a question about alignment. In the “horizontal” plane, a guy wants the rear axle plane and the trans. main shaft plane and the motor shaft plane to be parallel right???

[@pacificmike9501]

Yes. On a rigid frame bike, I key off of the motor shaft first. On a Softail or any other swing arm frame, I key off of the swingarm pivot bolt.

[@brentchalmers1436]

@@pacificmike9501 do you ever come across a twisted swingarm???

[@pacificmike9501]

Sure.

[@brentchalmers1436]

@@pacificmike9501 can you spring them back or are they junk???

[@ironearl69]

Hello Mike, I 've been chatting with you recently about my '57 Pan that I am rebuilding the top end...new pistons and all new valve train. I have no problem finding torque values for the heads in may manuals, but I cannot seem to find a torque value for the cylinder base nuts. Can you provide me with a value for my '57? While I got you, do you ever slightly turn the cylinders to help with alignment for the carb manifold or do you find there is always enough play in the heads to achieve this? Me and my old pan thank you in advance.

[@pacificmike9501]

45 lbs. on the cylinder base nuts. The cylinder head bolt holes in the cylinders are machined large enough to turn the heads and align the intake manifold.

[@ironearl69]

As usual thanks for your time Mike!

[@ironearl69]

Mike, I'm sorry to bother you so soon, I'm using good quality James head gaskets and was curious if you ever open up the oil passageway holes in the gaskets? With these old bikes having passageways rather than outside oil lines I thought that this may help ensure the passageways are not impeded/blocked partially after rotating the heads to align the manifold. Your thoughts?

[@brandonjones152]

Satisfying video 🎉

[@pacificmike9501]

Glad you enjoyed

[@georgejanz1313]

Hey Mike, when you bolted the engine to the frame, you noted to really tighten things down. Is there a range of torque I should be using to get everything even? 50 lb? In the process of going through this operation so this video is very handy! Thank you for any response.

[@pacificmike9501]

When I service a motorcycle, I tighten all of the motor and trans mounting bolts. Most specs aren't really there for the mounting bolts. But here's something available to all of us. Any book on fasteners. Any Harley service manual from the eighties up, any "Machinist Handbook," they all give optimum torques for bolts by size and description. When in doubt, Look in any of those places. They reference the bolt by grade (you'll find that on the head of the bolt and the size is easy to figure out). Easy enough, Harley only uses a few sizes.

[@georgejanz1313]

@@pacificmike9501 thank you. I will check those sources. Advice very much appreciated.

[@georgejanz1313]

Funny, last year I was assembling a shoveled, this year a '64 Pan - the bolts are marked 1038 CP - I bought these NOS for a correct nut/bolt assembly. I have looked high/low for an x-ref 1038CP to SAE for torque specs, no joy. This is a 3/8x24 1038 CP lower end to frame. Baby Doll is a bit more senior, but what to you torque her engine to frame with in ft lbs? 2nd question - following install instruction in Clymers - says hand tighten read lower end mounting bolts (done) check for gap @ front mounting. .0025in left front mount, right side flush. Thoughts on shimming the left hand side?

[@georgejanz1313]

I re-read my questions. I am a lousy typist and an even worse proof-reader. Here's a cleaned up version as I hate to waste your time and appreciate it a lot. I have looked high/low for an x-ref 1038CP to SAE for torque specs, no joy. This is a 3/8x24 1038 CP lower end to frame. Would you have a recco for ft lbs of torque engine to frame? 2nd question - following install instruction in Clymers - says hand tighten rear lower end mounting bolts (done) check for gap @ front mounting. .0035in left front mount, right side flush. Thoughts on shimming the left hand side? Note, originally, I did say .0025 but I rechecked from a different angle.

[@alstone5257]

Mike, I can only find, the lifter install magnetic tool for twin cam motors ?? will it fit the shovelhead ? if not where do i get the right one.

[@pacificmike9501]

You don't really need it on a Shovelhead. It's much more necessary on an Evo or a Twin cam. If you want to use one anyway, get it for an Evo. It will fit, but you don't need it. Follow Shovelhead instructions for a Shovelhead. It's a nice convenient piece, but you really won't have a problem without it.

[@alstone5257]

@@pacificmike9501 thanks so much for getting back to me.

[@pacificmike9501]

You are quite welcome.

[@BaByrAy210]

Hi Mike. I hope you are staying healthy and well out there. I have 74 shovelhead fxe project and I am looking to have the motor and transmission gone through and rebuilt. Do you have anyone you can recommend or if by chance you have shop? Is there anyway to get in contact with you? Anyways, came across your channel and I am so happy that you are making these videos. They cool to look at and learn from

[@pacificmike9501]

Sorry. I am retired. I honestly have no one to recommend. Please continue to watch our videos though.

[@jimmcginn9853]

Hey Mike question for you. what causes a 1975 hydroglide front end to top out.

[@pacificmike9501]

You can improve it by experimenting with springs and different weight fluid. Getting it to stop leaking helps. Usually, if everything is in reasonably good shape, change the fluid and pay close attention to the quantity according to the service manual. If it's dirty when you drain it and don't want to disassemble it, change the fluid and run it for a short time, then change it again. If it really is a 75 front end, be sure to use a 75, not late 77 up manual. You have an early hydraulic Harley front end, not a Showa.

[@jimmcginn9853]

@@pacificmike9501 thanks for the reply I was asking for my neighbor as he doesn't have you tube or a smartphone he's a bit old fashioned lol

[@newking70]

Do you have to use Loctite on the bolts?

[@pacificmike9501]

Nope.

[@djwalker1195]

What size bolts did you use for the motor to the frame?

[@pacificmike9501]

Motor mount bolts for the case to the frame are 3/8, with 9/16 heads. The parts manual will always tell you size and grade. Very important.

[@djwalker1195]

Pacific Mike how long do they need to be? Sorry asking for my brother.

[@markmcsheffreysr6890]

Is this the old bike ??

[@pacificmike9501]

What old bike? It is my personal Shovelhead. I bought it new in 1978. It is a 1977 FLH. It is the newest bike I own.

[@markmcsheffreysr6890]

@@pacificmike9501 sorry the brass card is what I was watching then this one I’m so lost sorry again love

[@richardgrognard6394]

you can come and work in France there is work for you.

[@pacificmike9501]

That's real tempting. Thank You. But, I'm retired.

[@richardgrognard6394]

@@pacificmike9501 retirement is not good for morale you'll get bored, Mike

[@AbdulAllahAbuDaoud]

Gudden tite! You speaken deutch!?

[@pacificmike9501]

Sure, two words.

[@420eh]

You sir are the Bob Ross of the bike world !!! kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqGrf5uHfMiLrtU

[@pacificmike9501]

Thank you.