Hauling Efficiency on Big Walls - Cord Tests

  Рет қаралды 1,071

Yann Camus

Yann Camus

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 9
@JSOnTheRocks
@JSOnTheRocks Жыл бұрын
It's fascinating to observe how the 10mm sling demonstrates comparable performance to the Thin Cord. Given the scarcity caused by the high demand for Skot's product, it's reassuring to see that a "budget friendly" and easily available alternative exist. Thanks for the great video!
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
@YannCamusBlissClimbing Жыл бұрын
Thanks JS!! By the way I recommend you cut the sling at the stiches but don't cut the stiches: cut the 2 plies of slings so you have 5 stiches at one end and 5 stiches at the other end. That makes good "end knots" so any clove hitch will not slip all the way past the sling. You get what I mean?
@zacharysmith6417
@zacharysmith6417 Жыл бұрын
I would love to see this same test on a blue ice alpine runner, a 5mm dyneema cord, and a 7mm edelweiss runner.
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
@YannCamusBlissClimbing Жыл бұрын
Yea! My problem with the very thin ones is they don’t last on the biggest loads in Yosemite. Mark Hudon had one snap on him and thankfully he was fine.
@grigorbrowning
@grigorbrowning Жыл бұрын
Fantastic video, and of specific personal interest - thank you. Have you any plans to extend the experiment/comparison to include stretch of the cord? The up-down load difference from friction and rope-squish-hysteretic-behaviour is higher than I would have guessed. But I've always thought of hauling efficiency within in pulley system to be (mostly) the 'lost motion' due to the stretch of the cord as load cycles on and off. Might not be that easy to test without a good way of making small relative displacement measures (or perhaps increasing the load so much that it becomes non representative, high load to get more easily measured stretch but is then in a very non-linear portion of the spring rate of the cord). It'd certainly be interesting to see how the thick and thin Skot cords perform comparatively when stretch is included (in say a Chongo setup). One assumes that the thick might win back on lower stretch what it loses is bearing/squish friction...?
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
@YannCamusBlissClimbing Жыл бұрын
I have an idea of testing I can do. Will try to film that soon.
@grigorbrowning
@grigorbrowning Жыл бұрын
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Fantastic! I look forward to seeing that when you have a chance. I'm almost as interested to see what testing set-up you manage to engineer as the results for the different cords... 😁
@namelastname2449
@namelastname2449 Жыл бұрын
Nice
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
@YannCamusBlissClimbing Жыл бұрын
Thanks!
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