Every Test Climbing Ropes Have to Pass

[@HowNOT2]

Super helpful. Thanks!

[@9mmTXn]

So, I'm 43 years old. I just took my fearless 13 year old daughter to her first indoor climbing gym, and she fell in love with the sport. I got top rope certified and have been watching your content to learn how to best assist her. I gotta say, you are probably the most likable guy on KZbin. Thank you, and keep up your great work!

[@chrisk8208]

Your dedication and professionalism are to be admired. That you check what you say with professionals in the field is also outstanding. Whatever you report, I can be confident that the people I suspend will be safe while I follow your advice. Thank you. Over 25 years of rigging, and I'm still learning. :)

[@HardIsEasy]

Ah thank you so much!

[@prowhiskey2678]

This is a really good video about uiaa specs. But I also gotta say, good job mammut for helping getting information out. Honestly, publication of data is a big plus for me when considering from who to buy

[@elephantincrocs]

to me, your videos are the most informative yet entertaining climbing content there is on youtube, instantly liking!

[@HardIsEasy]

Wow, thanks!

[@johnarinehart]

You say that you get surprised by the amount of people watching your videos, but I think it's only natural with so much dedication and thoroughness that you go into each one. Thank you so much for all this work, and thanks Mammut for showing all of that to us. All this info have always been like a 'blackbox' for us consumers, it's nice to see what all these numbers are.

[@nickgooris6761]

every time again and again a funny and geeky video with lots of data and important things to know, yet very simply explained. awesome!

[@Larsosborne]

As someone who has done test engineering, I found it cool to see their processes and procedures for getting consistent results. Credit to Mammut for showing us how things get done inside, and thank you, Ben, for telling the story of their ropes!

[@yellowllorente]

Cant wait for your next review episode on the elerid pinch! Looking forward for that! 🙃

[@niconamingisannoying]

I love your high quality videos. People like you and or channels like @veritasium, who have high standarts in which information they provide, are what makes youtube so interesting to me! That you actually go to the experts in the industry you are talking about and test things yourself makes it much more coprehnsible for us. Also the difference in theory and practice or better said: How the theory is applied in practice, is a really valuable focus of your channel. So I can't thank you enough for not only not posting cheap content, but super in depth content! Also this comment is a bit of algorithm feeding, since I noticed the video so early:)

[@HardIsEasy]

Thank you for such message, super cool to know that people are interested in my interests and makes me wanna do even more :)

[@NOZERIC]

One of my favorite channels all time!! I appreciate your dedication to the sport, and the knowledge you provide

[@phillipbinnema2171]

Buying a new rope tomorrow so this is a well timed video! I especially appreciated the graphs that give us the normal range expected in each parameter to know what numbers are low and high. Excellent work as always Ben!

[@apeclimbing]

just the best educational and entertaining climbing youtube channel. more a how to and not hownot2.

[@majk2200]

Hey, great work! Could you share the webscraped rope dataset somewhere? I would love to explore it and maybe certain groups of ropes can be found with similar properties?

[@chrisgoodhind1821]

Thanks for the content! A great peek behind the curtain of the testing process. Always nice to see great humans interacting 😊

[@gambet1234]

Sooooooooooooooo much info. So much more understanding! Thank YOU!

[@DaDomi0815]

Yay new content!

[@heinzhubner1245]

Really useful content, as always! Many thanks for all the background information and tests. May many more good videos follow!

[@marievlo4308]

I love those nerdy videos about climbing! Thanks for making us ropes nerds :)

[@ingridk2469]

If you keep this up, you could really do a PhD on climbing ropes and fall forces! But I have a question you could ask your Mammut friends: if I drop a carabiner on the ground from up high, is the carabiner *really* less safe now? I find this just so hard to believe....

[@HardIsEasy]

Haha my next video is exactly about your 2nd question ;)

[@EricNietofilms]

thank you a lot for your videos, it's incredible the ammount of information we learn from your videos! can't wait to see the next one.

[@HardIsEasy]

Thank you so much! next one is even more exciting :D

[@Luke.A.Hayman]

I just love the way you approach your topics - just keep turning stones over until you can't find any more stones! Great approach to life 😂

[@apocalilol]

Thank you for this informative and entertaining video. I consider mammut to be relatively expensive, but it's good to see them investing in this research/testing.

[@MattiaBallotti]

I usually don't watch long video (> 20 min), but if they are yours i watch them regardless of the thumbnail, duration, title, etc, i really like your videos! Also, some times your way of talking make me feel "close" to you, like at 33:03, thank you so much and happy climbing!!

[@Fraizedesbois]

Oh Ben ! I’ve missed you man ! Thank you for posting another awesomely documented and thorough nerdy video 🙏🏼 - definitely loving it !

[@whelmking6497]

Ben, you're work is simply unparalleled (okay.. Ryan is parallel). We are so lucky to have you providing the best information on all things safety and technical in climbing. Proud to be a patreon and strongly encourage others to support your work too.

[@HardIsEasy]

Hey, thank you so much, It actually helps me a ton people who support me. I can be slightly less pressured to produce stuff and actually think and make something more meaningful... (at least for me)

[@Zimny913]

Bro... Your Channel is pure gold. I'm watching every video ! Thank You so much for this. You helped me a lot.

[@aminebrahimi3948]

Finally I understand that label numbers. Thank you!

[@gregdavidd]

Awesome content as usual!! So pro!

[@Fonzleberry]

Hey Ben, it was cool seeing you in Madrid. I'm not sure if I said, but I love your content. All the best, Awkward handshake dude.

[@brouklisgooglis6689]

Thank you !!!! And I love your work

[@space9277]

If people aren't watching this, it's the algorithm not showing it to people. I only had this recommended to me after 2 days and I'm on youtube often. Thanks for the videos.

[@HardIsEasy]

Yea I'm surprised how badly this video performing, not sure if it's the topic not interesting to people orwhatever else...

[@damiand6818]

I do love you showing up at their office and just 'bullying' them, especially with how kind of 'archetypically chad' you look (even if you're a huge dork yourself) its so cute xD. But another fascinating video it seems.

[@pavlodeshko]

0:00 I felt personally called out

[@TypeSpice]

Yes, a new video with lots of info, I like it already :D

[@deanofsend]

Brilliant, excellent video, thankyou!

[@davidlee6461]

Really appreciate your video, very informative and interesting. Makes me know about the ROPES. Thank you man 😊

[@sagimeromi8734]

Amazing video as always

[@jacobthomas4958]

I saw a video about the edelrid pinch, it would be cool to see you test and review it!

[@HardIsEasy]

I'm testing it ;)

[@dmitryigorevitch7347]

nice channel, thank you!

[@libre2grimper]

Top content. Thanks

[@johntheguru]

Nice to have you back in my subscriptions!!! Missed yer 🤣👌👌👌👌

[@falkrybak3654]

Thank you for this interesting tests

[@adrianr5442]

I love the beer in the corner. How do they test them? Are they the distraction?😂

[@hampusdanielsson6860]

👍 keep it up. Great videos!

[@Toopa88]

3:16 I love your glance 😂

[@weimaraner3240]

Thank you to Mammut and the volunteers at UIAA who have spent so much time making us safer.

[@timgrant1796]

It doesn't pay the manufacturers to abandon the accepted standard of ten years and retire the rope. It is a very difficult problem, due in large part to extraneous factors, like cleaning, storage and exposure to UV and chemicals. Thanks for the details on testing.

[@100.-.clim_bing]

You are a living legend!

[@jan530]

Thank you for this nice video. How a rope is tested is very interesting to see and to know. Especially importend is nontheless the "fall-factor" while loading a rope on falling. It is not described here, but I wanted to mention it, because there might be some confusion out there, about this topic. Never ever go near a fall-factor of 2 ;-) . You know what I mean (smile). I also like the videos of yout buddy Ryan from "How not to". Have learned a lot while watching you guys. Just wanted to say "thank you" :-) . Best wishes and be save.

[@maypat6712]

Damn man such a nice video ! Could you please leak that amazing spreadsheet of rope data so that we can make a more enlighten next purchase ?? Thanks a lot !

[@philipegoulet448]

@27:45 Just to be pedantic, that is a nut, not a bolt! A bolt has male threads!

[@cesuntbanii]

thank you, man!

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

I'm wondiering if you just live at Mammut at this point. Would be nice to see the tests for Harnesses and other equipment as well.

[@RicTodhunter]

Thanks man - your stuff is always fantastic. Do you plan to do anything on the new Edilrid Pinch?

[@HardIsEasy]

Yea, I've brought it and testing, but probably going to take a while.until I publish anything

[@bryanturns7872]

Dope video!

[@theabbydiary9392]

great video!

[@HardIsEasy]

Thanks!

[@marting7181]

It seems they don't put only ropes in their climatic chambers! Nice stuff in the background @ 12:00! (PS: We all do the same so no judgment on my side)

[@PetrVejchoda]

The guy working at the Sheath slippage machine has a nice collection of beers there ...

[@rampel1]

The standard for Sheath slippage testing defines how many beers have to be arround at any given time. It's standard metrology you know :D

[@bastir.3693]

Great Video 👍

[@markusreisser7985]

Nice, new video ✌️👍

[@JorgeNadamas]

love these nerdy videos

[@1a1u0g9t4s2u]

Okay, off topic but just saw the opening scene to the 2022 movie Fall. There were many observations I noticed that an experienced climber would never do. Would like your opinion of the many technical errors depicted in this movie. BTW, I truly enjoy viewing your videos and learning from them. Thanks for sharing.

[@zrath67]

Thanks, I enjoyed watching and learning about rope. I now believe all offices should have mini bikes.

[@lukesonnenburg5006]

Thanks!

[@HardIsEasy]

Thank you!

[@TheMegaMrMe]

I thought I was the only one going down this rabbit hole. now I feel like I'm part of a larger community

[@strnik2657]

Awesome!😍

[@konel83]

Nice to see you :D

[@HardIsEasy]

Nice to read you

[@Jam....]

cheers for nerding

[@ДимитърГраховски]

I personally felt the difference in ropes. Especially with beal, it's really soft catch but loooooong fall.

[@gulkocs]

Thomaso was such a vibe 😂

[@sven_k]

I'm still left with 2 questions; First of all what about the most obvious stat, the minimum breaking strength? Would be curious how Mammut tests as compared to HowNot2. And for the static elongation, why does it keep stretching? In real use, once the climber hangs in the rope, it stretches for a second at most and then reaches a balance. It seems like the testing machine keeps pulling however? If it exerts a constant 0.8kN of force shouldn't it reach a balance really fast as well?

[@MarianaBarroso-z6f]

Love this channel 😊Does anyone know if he has a video on clipping technique? If not I would really love to see that 😎

[@axr42]

3:33 I love the cords belt. Does someone know the knots she used? Cheers😊

[@the_lenny1]

looks like double fisherman's

[@briantrang3699]

What do we think the weight limit is for a climber, considering the capacity of the rope, bolts, quick draws, harness, cams, nuts, etc? I ask out of curiosity, as I work with a number of bariatric patients in a hospital, some between 700 lbs (317 kg) and 1000 lbs (453 kg). If someone of this weight were to express an interest in climbing, at what weight do we think there would be safety concerns? Even when considering top roping in a gym, I assume there must be some limitations to the structure of the wall. I love your videos! Thanks for any input!

[@niceguy191]

They would run into all sorts of limitations I feel. Getting a harness that fits properly would be a big one.

[@stefanomorandi7150]

this is anecdotal but i remember the edelrid people talking about weight in relation to cut-resistance of ropes (they have a few video about the topic), and how weight decrease it a lot, es: a very skinny rope with one person rappeling is less vulnerable than a thick rope with 2 people (for example tandem rappel or rescue situation). as far as gym-climbing is concerned (no edges or wandering route) anybody capable of climbing is probably well within specs of the rope... magnus midtbo took eddie hall on top rope after all... the limiting factor is probably gonna be the harness and how to get it to properly fit.

[@markoneal9677]

Your combined static & dynamic elongation chart showed that the Mammut 9.5 crag we care rope should have fairly low elongation. My personal experience with that rope is the exact opposite. Anecdotally it is noticeably stretchier than any other rope I have ever used 9mm and greater. Bar none. In fact we had two crag we care ropes , different lengths, and both were extremely stretchy. So take those measurements with a grain of salt

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

Well have you measured them? Cause feelings and reality aren't necessarily the same thing. For waht it's worth, I've climbed on a number of Crag We Care Ropes and I haven't ever felt that they were particularly stretchy compared to other ropes.

[@markoneal9677]

@@Aaron-xq6hv I mean I haven't tested them side by side with some other rope on the same route. But it's really obvious when you fall on them that you fall way further than you think you should compared to other similar sized ropes. Heck I jugged out using it once and I felt like I was on a bungy cord

[@markoneal9677]

@@Aaron-xq6hv So we figured out that it seems to be the white 9.5's that are super duper stretchy. The newer 9.7's aren't bad at all

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

@@markoneal9677 Interesting, thanks for the update. I'm kinda curious why or if something changed.

[@maximaxi0401]

Hello Mr. Hard Is Easy 😁 It would be interesting for me to know what is the REAL difference between a doublerope and a 3x certified rope. I saw that e.g. the Beal Iceline 8.1 has a sheath mass of 41% in comparison to a Beal Opera 8.5 having 38% sheath mass. Is it valid to calculate e.g. 41 % of the 8.1mm rope and say the sheath there is thicker or is i really online the mass, which would be lower for the double rope if the sheath and the core would be the same weight- wich is surely not the case. Is there any info what is the weight of the core and sheath and des it play a role or does it depend more on the material, way of woving and so on... I would be interessted in your mind to that topic. Cheers

[@HardIsEasy]

Yea technically more sheath % means more sheath material and should make a rope last longer to abrasion, but there are more factors to this as well that's why I'm wishing better standardised tests.

[@florianunterfrauner2041]

21:25: is that only for mammut ropes or also for ropes from other manufactures?

[@HardIsEasy]

Actually it's more between brands some brands will have more soft ropes while others stiffer

[@MattyDredge]

You're welcome 🙂

[@Spinsser]

14:27 Watch out for the newest metric for ropes. 🐑 Sheep Sliffage

[@Fraizedesbois]

Haha I heard that too and smiled 🐑 💕

[@emptycl0ud9]

Where can we find these charts for rope?

[@montanhaescalada]

👏👏

[@derekherman5159]

Can you share the database and charts?

[@DaimyoD0]

27:30 why are the nuts called "bolts" here btw? Industry term?

[@HardIsEasy]

Nah, it's actually nuts - it's probably more of a language being not native and using incorrect word

[@JippaJ]

She is so cool.

[@stumftim]

Any chance of publicly sharing the rope data? 👀

[@STech_Videos]

Bro how may i get connected with you for video editing

[@shoseto9184]

The elephant in the crag is mammut.

[@goed1adit]

My Tendon Ambition 10.5 mm is smaller than Beal Edlinger 10.2 mm. 🤔

[@kamilfertacz2708]

Can you share your database ?

[@Mechman0925]

My conclusion of all this subjective testing is that there is so much unintelligible data that no one understands it or or can contest it. Also I would not be surprised if they get government grants to conduct testing that in no way effects the end user decision to buy or not, it’s primarily to protect themselves in law suits.

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

You think the Swiss government is giving them money for this? Impact Force, as well as Dynamic and Static Elongation definitely affects my decision on which rope to buy.

[@Mechman0925]

@@Aaron-xq6hv Hey the testing that is done is vital to manufacturing and safety, thats a no brainer, I want it done myself. My comment was directed toward some of the testing proceceedures are so subjective based on different peoples processes is sloppy in my view. Whether some of the tests actully result in change or higher quality are questionable in my perspective. What company would do all these processes which costs money if they werent valuable? Seems like answers to questions that are not being asked. Who does this type of testing for "just because" is a company that is being funded by outside sources. What value to you is a bunch of data that means to you? You think you arent paying for some of that?

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

@@Mechman0925 For the most part these aren't "arbitrary" or "subjective" though, they're part of the UIAA standards that have been around since 1960.

[@Latexasends]

Hello everyone !!!

[@joehopfield]

Knotability protocol looks archaic - inaccurately at friction and flex. Then you take a few falls and get it dirty...

[@mikesnook6951]

your "bolts" are in fact "nuts" !!!

[@Wealthyedits1]

Great video ❤, btw I wanted to reach out to you regarding editing your content, would love to work with you 🤝 I have well over 3 years of video editing experience, is there anywhere I can connect to you regarding this? Let me know 👍

[@joaofarias6473]

Cool people haha

[@1.4142]

6:08

[@drstrangelove85]

I don't care about the impact force. I care if my belayer is skilled in giving a soft catch. I will never think: I don't need a good belayer as I have a rope with low impact force.

[@Davidsc0000]

Can we try to use ai here, to calculate new patterns and forms we can put ropes together? ALso i really enjoy good magic wand penetration. Seems like an important measure.

[@blah7983]

Not really the type of thing AI is useful for. There’s only so many dials you can turn with regards to how you set up the weave. More of a simulations problem

[@Davidsc0000]

@@blah7983 i dont know ai can produce multiple forms of molecules and predict their stability. if the model is correct ai should be able to produce different versions of weave and maybe find some we have not thought of with different capabilities.

[@Mushkanedits]

Hi! Can I have your email...?