Ford Focus (2005 - 2011) Diesel - Replace the alternator

Do you need to Replace the alternator on your Ford Focus (2005 - 2011) Diesel Diesel but don't know where to start? This video tutorial shows you step-by-step how to do it!
Our Ford Focus (2005 - 2011) Diesel manual covers the diesel engines, and includes videos for some of the most common jobs, which you can see here in this playlist. Get the full manual haynes.com/en-...
What's covered:
Diesel:
Ford Focus Estate 1.6 litre (1560 cc) (2005 - 2011)
Ford Focus Estate 1.8 litre (1753 cc) (2005 - 2011)
Ford Focus Estate 2.0 litre (1997 cc) (2005 - 2011)
Ford Focus Hatchback 1.6 litre (1560 cc) (2005 - 2011)
Ford Focus Hatchback 1.8 litre (1753 cc) (2005 - 2011)
Ford Focus Hatchback 2.0 litre (1997 cc) (2005 - 2011)
Ford Focus Saloon 1.6 litre (1560 cc) (2005 - 2011)
Ford Focus Saloon 1.8 litre (1753 cc) (2005 - 2011)
Ford Focus Saloon 2.0 litre (1997 cc) (2005 - 2011)
Exclusions:
Does NOT cover CVT, Powershift or automatic transmission. Does NOT cover features specific to C-Max or CC (Convertible) models.

[@BobbyFlay14]

My brother, thank you so much for this. I decided to have a go at this myself. Took the day off work and started at 1pm. Finished at 7pm 😭had to jump start the car after as the batter was completely flat (due to previous alternator). I think the hardest part for me was pulling the wheel tensioner back. Slightly different lay out in my car and couldn’t get a spanner in there. Used a crow bar in the end 😭 But all in all. A good challenge, learnt something new for myself and saved about £200. Once again very much appreciated 🙏🏻

[@HaynesManuals]

Well done!

[@XxXnonameAsDXxX]

You should put 1.6 HDI in the title. Best alternator change tutorial on youtube!

[@HaynesManuals]

Thanks! We've made a note of your comment

[@atdelectricalstvdigitalrep1364]

Great video - my alternator failed this week. I had to run out today to buy a 16mm spanner and ratchet spanner for the rear hard to get at alternator bolts... job all done including a new battery too! Thanks Haynes!

[@HaynesManuals]

You're welcome

[@agent7pl.]

I did it without removing the wheel arch from the engine cover and dismantling the air conditioning compressor. Everything from the top.

[@deniszhansen2336]

Wow! Thank you so much! The very best video I have seen so far for this issue! 👍👍👍

[@HaynesManuals]

You're welcome!

[@piotr3525]

Thank you very much! After seeing this great clip I've decided to replace by myself and fully succeeded. The only point unexpected - 5 mm drill was too big to fit in the hole and block tensioner rotation. I checked it after disassembly and found the hole stepped with roughly 3÷4 mm diameter at the bottom. Mine FF is from 2010, perhaps the modification of the cast was done?

[@HaynesManuals]

It's possible, but glad it helped!

[@buddhudd1054]

Great tutorial 👌

[@HaynesManuals]

Glad you think so!

[@andersberg4358]

So grateful for this video!

[@HaynesManuals]

You're so welcome!

[@ThomasMcintosh614]

Great video! Just one quick question and it is relevant to me because I am going to have to search for a parasitic draw on my Ford Focus 2010 diesel, last time it happened it was the alternator so I am thinking it may be the alternator again but will go through the full circuits check. WHen you disconnected the electrical cables on the alternator, you removed the plug connector and then said remove the NEGATIVE terminal, but when you reconnected the alternator you said connect the POSITIVE terminal. Is the cable with the lug on it that was under the plug & rubber seal a +ve or a -ve cable?? I am thinking it may be a +ve as that would be the one the power goes out to the batter via, and the alternator itself is maybe grounded directly through contact with the metal body. I am only new to car DIY, Thanks

[@HaynesManuals]

Hi, thanks for your comments. The terminal under the rubber cap on the alternator is the positive feed to the battery. With regard to the voiceover, unless I'm mistaken, at 4.03 the voiceover says to disconnect the positive cable, and at 8.41 it says to reconnect the positive cable. We do try to ensure the videos are as accurate as possible, but mistakes do happen!

[@ThomasMcintosh614]

@@HaynesManuals Thanks for the reply, I have narrowed down the fault I think to a parasitic draw of almost 3 Amps on the alternator (when ignition is OFF ie no key inserted). When I remove all the fuses & fusible links from both passenger & engine fuse box the draw remains, but when I removed the main battery +ve post from the alternator it disappears, so I am thinking the alternator is the issue somehow. I will do some further bench testing of the alternator. Just another Haynes manual question Please, I have your Owners Workshop Manual for the Ford Focus 2005-2011 (54 to 61 registration) Diesel manual, in the wiring diagram for the typical starting & charging circuit on page 12.25 it shows what looks like a fusible link between car battery & starter motor ID F1000 , this does not seem to be a fuse in either the Engine fusebox (id 4) or passenger fusebox (id 18) is this a fusible link actually in series with the thick battery cables themselves and will physically be somewhere between the battery & starter motor, or is it a misprint in the book? book ISBN 978 0 85733 9096 THANKS!

[@fertysurfer]

You dont need to remove the difficult to get at rear mounting bolts, just undo them a bit, which releases the pressure on the retainng sleeves, then you can slide the alternator out. You'll understand what i mean once you do this. They are designed to be removed in this manor simply because they are very difficult to get at.

[@bunchamp85]

How did you remove the alternator electrical connector? Im stuck at this part :(

[@adamschabikowski8150]

Poradnik kapitalny drugi taki znaleźć ciężko idealny jednynie ja bym zrobił trochę inaczej dla pewności,po założeniu paska próba czy wszystko działa ,bo założyć nadkole i koło nie problem i osłonę,a jak by było źle,to ani tam się dostać sprawnie pozdrawiam 😊

[@Spanner04]

My ‘07 1.8 Focus was displaying strange error lights such as steering. The next day, the car wouldn’t start. Replaced the battery today with a brand new one and it started with ease. However, multimeter readings are around 11.85 with the car idling. Does this mean my alternator has died?

[@Sam-jr3bj]

I had the same problem about 3 days ago mate on my 1.6 tdci zetec s fiesta, was sat a traffic lights on the way home from work and I had a power steering error come up so I turned the car off and on again and it wouldn’t start after that I had to push the car and leave it at the side of the road I then went back with my mate who is a mechanic and he done the multi meter test in my battery and it was only at 12.33 and the same when the engine was running it was the same but it should be around 13.00 or 14.00 when the engine is running to allow charge of the battery. I’m currently in the middle of changing my alternator and drive belt but because of Xmas it’s still of the road but should be fixed tomorrow I hope lol hope that helps 👌🏻

[@Spanner04]

@@Sam-jr3bj thanks for the reply mate. Thankfully, my car is on the drive. What’s the estimated cost of your alternator replacement?

[@Sam-jr3bj]

@@Spanner04 the original price for my alternator was around £190 and the drive belt was £22 but I managed to get it for £110 as there was a 60% sale at my auto shop mate

[@Spanner04]

@@Sam-jr3bj nice one! Gets to the question with my old banger, is it worth it?

[@Sam-jr3bj]

@@Spanner04 depends how much your willing to spend mate, id imagine that if you took it to a garage they’d probably charge around £500 for the part and for labour or so? but Im not 100% sure as I’m not a mechanic I’m just guessing so could be Cheaper or more expensive then I say but I’m doing it my self so I just had to pay for the alternator and belt. As long as you got basic tools and you have somewhat of knowledge with cars it’s a pretty straight forward job mate 👍🏻

[@davidthomson236]

Can this job be done from above at all or does it need to be accessed from the bottom

[@fertysurfer]

All can be done from above. It's an awkward job either way but a bit less work from above. I've just finished doing mine today with the help from another video.

[@adamevans8187]

What size or bolts are on the rear of the alternator? I have the book and nothing to say in there and checked online and cannot find them as I lost one!

[@electricladyguitarsdevonuk1414]

My 06 1.8tdci has the alternator connecting to Aux belt via a drive pulley extension unit. Is there a video on how to remove my alternator? Does the Aux belt need removing, as unit can be disconnected from alternator whilst in situ?

[@HaynesManuals]

Yes, you still need to remove the belt. The coupling (extension unit) had to be removed before the alternator.

[@NorbertCristian28]

Very nice and helpful video!!

[@HaynesManuals]

Glad you think so!

[@anassbennouna5723]

Thanks a lot for this very helpful tutorial. My alternator is no longer changing the battery, I want to know if it's reppairable ? or just replace the alternator? have you got any ideas? Thanks from france !

[@HaynesManuals]

If you can locate an Auto electrical specialist, they maybe able to recondition your old alternator.

[@paoloboscolo4435]

Great. Thanks for video. I saw that in the video you use the torque wrench for the belt tensioner arm mountiong bolts (I mean the support bracket which has 3 bolts) but you don't specify how much tighten them. Do you know the specified torque setting? Thanks!

[@HaynesManuals]

Aux belt tensioner mounting bolts = 20 NM

[@DemianPhotos]

It was a painful 5 hours... Thanks for the video... Just be prepared to vomit after you finish this job.

[@flaviog.7192]

Garbage Ford engineers 🤮🤮

[@buddhudd1054]

I would like to add. You don't need to remove the two back alternator bolts completely. They are tapered bolts with a sleeve schem inside alternator bracket the shim expands when tightened. I know I'm not explaining very well,,🙈

[@HaynesManuals]

Good tip!

[@jim-stacy]

@@HaynesManuals This is a job ive got to do soon, AMAZING video, clear steps and great views of what you need to look at. Could you clarify what Budd Hudd's tip is? it sounds like it could save a bit of hassle

[@MrMarriott1810]

Good tip from Budd Hudd. The back two bolts are like masonry expansion bolts. All you need to do is release the two back bolts a couple of turns. Remove the two front bolts and then pull the alternator away from the engine and the two rear bolts will slide through the mounting bracket towards the offside wheel arch. Clearance between the mounting brackets is a bit tight so you may have to re tighten them a few turns before the alternator can be pulled away from the brackets towards the front of the car. To refit just line the two expansion bolts up with their holes and pull them back into place with the other two bolts. This explains why the two outside bolts are so long.

[@andreadeluca4660]

hi, great video, where i can find the serial number to understand if it is a 120A or 150A? Thanks in advance

[@HaynesManuals]

The rating will be on a sticker, on the alternator.

[@andreadeluca4660]

@@HaynesManuals where can i find that? Is it possibile to read without unmount the alternator? Thanks in advance

[@belalalchalah6849]

@Haynes Manuals I can't find it

[@belalalchalah6849]

Hello, can someone tell me how many Amber this is? 120A or 150A pleas

[@fordgarajankara]

Thank you

[@HaynesManuals]

Welcome!

[@modelmanmark]

Hi, Is this procedure the same for the Ford Focus 2010 1.6L titanium model with the Peugeot engine.

[@HaynesManuals]

Yes, this is for the 1.6L Duratorq TDCi engine

[@jackcreasey3712]

My power steering has gone and car won’t drive properly or start. Once jump started and still connected to other battery it will idle well and power steering work but as soon as unplugged it goes limp again. Likely to be the alternator?

[@HaynesManuals]

Could be, but more likely to be the battery.

[@AhmadAhmad-px2km]

Nice work👈👍❤️

[@HaynesManuals]

Thanks 🤗

[@user-re5su5rs5]

Cool!!!!

[@HaynesManuals]

Thanks!

[@cato618]

grazie thanks

[@HaynesManuals]

You're welcome

[@СергійСемікін]

100% ok

[@HaynesManuals]

Thanks!

[@flaviog.7192]

Ford is making fun of the mechanics who repair them. 🤢🤮