Head Gasket & Timing Ford Ranger/Mazda B "How To"

[@Nthefastlane]

🛒 Shop This Video: www.nthefastlane.com/head-gasket-timing-ford-mazda-store 🛒 Visit Nthefastlane's Amazon Store: amzn.to/3pP4UCy

[@ricgomez1]

Is this engine the same as the 2008 ford fusion 2.3, are torque specs the same?

[@Nthefastlane]

May day Sorry, a little late on the reply. Yes, same 2.3L Duratec engine.

[@Koshunae]

This is really why I like the old SOHC lima engines that were in these trucks. You were talking about slipping timing and valves kissing pistons, which reminded me that these were non-interference. Probably one of the best engine designs ever made.

[@darylkinnett675]

Thank you. This video has gave me the courage to go forth on swapping thenescape vin z headgasket and cams over to the ranger style setup. Mechanic for over 20 yrs but this Lil fellows are intimidating. Again thanks.

[@_BAD_MERC_]

This video was extremely useful. I just got a free 2002 Ranger with this engine. Clean truck with a 5 speed and A/C. Noisy bottom end. Gonna do a complete rebuild and clutch. Thanks for your time and expertise.

[@johnbrakingground]

Great video. Very selfless person to take your time and really show a detailed video on this fix. A huge help as I'm flying from Indiana to Oregon today to do this job on my mother inlaws Mazda 3. Nice to be able to see all the tricks to make the job easier. Thank you

[@sharedknowledge6640]

Thanks for another great Mazda B2300/Ranger video. It's an unusual engine and requires some special repair techniques so it's great to find detailed videos like yours of guys who have already sorted out the unique challenges. It's also kind of amazing your engine has 200+K miles on it and is in as good of shape as it is.

[@Nthefastlane]

Thank you Shared,and yes it is lol.

[@itbsection8980]

LOL, Love all the SAE talk when it's all mm. I do give you props though for taking on the challenge.

[@chrisk3462]

That was just what the dr ordered... I thought i was screwed... turned out after looking at your vid, that i had one of the cam's 180 degrees off. awesome vid and awesome help.

[@Nthefastlane]

Anytime chris.

[@tegimr]

Great video and nice work - thanks. Regarding the non-keyed shafts: they work very well. Millions of engines out there without slips.

[@FrankieGreen777]

nice work brah!!! like seeing the care you took into cleaning the parts. Also thought the video was informative. keep it up. :)

[@popcatzoo]

thanks a lot man! I need my ranger and this vid helps me out a lot.

[@bigmotoxer]

I build turbo/TT turbo engines, big h.p. ,and from experience you do not need the copper spray if your head/deck are surfaced correctly and your torque sequences and your torque specifications are correct, and done correctly. But the way you do it?, yes you probably should use some copper spray. I think this is a good video but I think that you should have emphasized how to lock the crank/ cam, to properly time the engine, without error because if I didn't know better and I went solely from this video it's possible damage could occur.

[@Taylor57179]

Very smart guy learned a lot thank you so much

[@fulltechauto2477]

Excellent video, quick question do you have to tune the oil pump

[@TheManaus45]

Thank You! you are very good and very accurately. From Italy.

[@Nthefastlane]

Thanks Renzo.

[@toddbob55]

very nice job dude

[@AUTOREPAIRGUIDE]

clear and concise!

[@Nthefastlane]

Thank you Tech.

[@henrietn]

Good tip about that torque wrench!

[@heinrichloots6004]

Awesome vid. Nice and thorough

[@RealityIsTheNow]

Excellent vid, man. Thanks!

[@Nthefastlane]

Thanks buddy.

[@josemaciel1586]

Do you have a second video on how to take a part the head. Im replacing my crankshaft and timing components. Thanks

[@DavidHigginsDH]

I'm working on a 2003 Ranger with that exact engine as a spare truck and just want confirmation that the positions I see in the video are correct for the overhead cams and that first cylinder is supposed to be at top dead center correct?I am doing a head gasket job on it but I figure I'll replace the timing in it as well considering its over 250K to kill 2 birds with one stone.

[@Nthefastlane]

Yes, the kit came with valve stem seals also..forgot to show that when I was showing the kit.I replaced all of them prior to installing the head.

[@devinkibe5169]

Do you time the crank, with that bolt, before you time the camshafts? and do you remove that bolt when your done?

[@brettmccullough1860]

So question. Do you time the crank, with that bolt, before you time the camshafts?

[@raymondtomlin645]

very detailed good job thank you

[@marwanasd518]

Nice work man

[@cameronbroussard3193]

Where did you get your tappets, the caps? How do I know what size to get? I know there are different size mm thickness

[@Jeremiah.1]

🆒 video 👍🕵 we are learning

[@nicholasb3605]

Your awesome brother 💯

[@Nthefastlane]

Thanks man!

[@powerchord85]

Does the CKP sensor really need to be replaced with a new one? Or can i use the old one? Your video btw is freaking awesome, just bought a 1996 Ranger 2.3L and will have this playing the whole time. Very informative and easy to listen to to figure it all out. But please get back to me if you can with regards to the CKP Sensor. Thanks

[@Nthefastlane]

re-use the old one,it won't fire if it's burnt out.

[@colerippeon3903]

If you watching this video in regards to your truck you want to look up a different video. The 2.3 in your ranger is much different that this one. Look up ford 2.3 lima engine head gasket, and you will find a better video for your truck

[@philwilson5846]

nice video very informative

[@chrismcgaughy9837]

Nice video - I have a Mazda Tribute with the same engine and need to replace valve seals. Do you think its possible to get the cams out without removing the timing cover and retiming? Bigger pain in transverse engine I think. I was hoping I could lock it in place at TDC, mark the cam gears and chain, and keep tension on the chain while I have the cams out. I was going to leave the gears in place and slip a bolt/shaft through them to keep them in place enough to keep from jumping a tooth. Probably put a mark on the chain where it comes up above the timing cover so I know it hasn't jumped a tooth on the crank gear. Any thoughts?

[@Nthefastlane]

Yes it is possible to remove the camgears from the cams without removing the timing chain cover.What you will have to do afterwards though is get a dial gauge and drop a extension down in cylinder 1,turn the crank to tdc and that will dial in your crank because you won't be able to see it with the timing chain case over it.

[@loganfrench3689]

question, did you reuse the Crankshaft Position Sensor or buy a new one, if reused what was the gap off the pulley/hamonic balancer. thx man wonderful video it helped me in everyway

[@Nthefastlane]

Re-used. Trial and error. Just play with it. Look at the original bolt indention and line them up.

[@revjamesministry]

good video ! GOD BLESS U

[@Nthefastlane]

Thanks!

[@johnskinner8618]

What do you spray on the head gasket?

[@Nthefastlane]

Hey John, I just updated the store. Looks like they changed the design of the product and the item was no longer in my store. Go check now. The link to the store is pinned to the top comments. It's also in the description.

[@hyper_active_snail]

Since you had the head machined, wouldn't you need to machine the block as well? Thanks

[@Nthefastlane]

In some cases yes, as long as the block deck checks out within the OEM service specs. Every manufacturer has different specs, this one was within the 0.004in spec.

[@hyper_active_snail]

@@Nthefastlane Thanks for the informative vid!!! Very helpful!

[@eugeniorico-chavez1006]

Is eccpp a good option for gaskets, i been hearing their not, what can you tell me bout them

[@panteragods1]

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!

[@xXBuckOFiveXx]

Did you deck the block?

[@michaelbuxton9611]

exactly which repair manual do i need, their are lots of them.

[@snowblind5151]

I wanted to ask you if it would be a waist of time to remove my head off this same motor. The problem is I did not tighten the harmonic balancer bolt tight enough. It broke two valves when trying to start .It never started ., but with a probe I can see the valves sitting on the top of the pistons. I wanted to take the head off and replace those valves. The motor cranked and snapped the valves instantly so I donte believe there was further damage.

[@xanderdad5898]

dude, you started the "how to" with head already OFFFF. Common man

[@no1aussiepaul]

They are not stainless steel washers on the harmonic balancer. The bolt and the DIAMOND CRUSH WASHER 1 between the crank and chain cog and 1 between chain cog and harmonic balencer ARE SINGLE USE ONLY $30 at ford. once you do the initial torque you need to block the crank from moving either at the flywheel or wood or plastic block against the big end connecting rod/crank. relying on a file and single bolt in an aluminum block is just silly against 150ft/pds of torque. should have removed the file and timing lock bolts after 40ft/pounds, I bet you elongated the hole on the front cover that locks the harmonic balancer. Also you didnt true the crank to top dead center at all. if your out 3deg at the crank it means your out 6degs at the cams as well as the lost ignition timing from the moved balancer. Do not use a impact driver to tighten ANY BOLTS EVER ON AN ALUMINUM BLOCK

[@rdlablo4849]

Nthefastlane what was that bolt you stuck on the bottom end of the engine to align the crank or hold it not sure? Where do i get that bolt?

[@Nthefastlane]

In the description, or at the top comments, I always pin my store with all the products to each video there. When you click the link, scroll down to about the middle of the products, it'll be a steel metal plate, and two purple bolts.

[@dal33tdude12]

Hey i have a question for ya. I am finally getting around to checking my timing components. i know i replied over a year ago lol. I bought a timing kit have everything disassembled . I am not sure if i should replace the chain and components or not. Everything actually looks to be in really good shape and there is 3 to 4 clicks left in the tensioner before it is maxed. The truck has almost 190K miles. I know it is a lot of work to get back into this area but now know about the check plug hole for the tensioner and could check it regularly. What do you think? Also i want to replace the clutch fan bearing assembly inside the front cover. I know generally you replace the entire front cover but remember seeing a thread somewhere on the internet where a fella showed you step by step on how to pull the bearing and what part number to replace it with but forgot to bookmark it and cant seem to find it. Do you by chance know what bearing it takes for the front cover or have you ever seen the thread? Thanks again for the very helpful video!

[@revjamesministry]

i liked this 2.3 dohc but i found out to time them. !!!! shew, Ford want the labor to work on them ! lol

[@Ekidrat]

like ah boss....how bout a comparative vid with an engine with timing marks and parts of this vid... did you change the valve oil seals( thinge with small springs) as well on this engine?

[@Nthefastlane]

Yes, I always change the valve seals if I pull a cylinder head.

[@benjaminhurley1823]

How long did it take you real time to replace the gasket

[@Nthefastlane]

Not including any of the machine work I would say under 4 hours. I'm usually really quick at doing repairs off camera. For instance, I was filming a strut repair that took around 3 hours when I was filming, but when I turn the camera off and I did the other side it took less then 20 minutes.

[@benjaminhurley1823]

@@Nthefastlane I got a quote from a mechanic saying it would take 12.5 hours . They are a really reputable shop my brother works for them so I don't think they are stealing my money.

[@Nthefastlane]

They already have the hours in their estimate book. They're just giving you the hours that they charge every customer according to what their manual says to charge. That amount of time gives them time in case they run into a problem etc. Down in the south my estimate is 8 hours according to my software, this is for a head gasket replacement. Dealer cost would be $1,164.85 and a local shop would be $991.05.

[@benjaminhurley1823]

@@Nthefastlane they gave us 1,700 dollar quote for 12.5 hours.

[@Nthefastlane]

Are they replacing the water pump, exhaust manifold gasket, maybe new cylinder head valve stems? They're probably also sending the head out to get machined. Anytime you overheat you need to send your head out to a machine shop.

[@abelvalle6188]

what a great vid. almost makes me think i can do it hahahaha

[@snowblind5151]

Are you adding to equal 180 ft. lb. ,because you said 80 . I'll check manual.

[@aaronrussell4753]

What year and model Ford Ranger to be exact?

[@chipcash]

Thinking about buying a 2003 Ranger 4 cyl. Think it has the same problem. How much in parts and machining?

[@billdickson871]

Unless its a really clean low mile ranger or you can get it for near scrap price it's probably not worth it, there are so many of these things out there and for so cheap you might as well just buy one thats already running good.

[@Nthefastlane]

$180ish Pressure Tested,Decked & Valve stem seals replaced.

[@Nthefastlane]

You can buy quality parts in my online store. I hand pick each part for each video I do. I always Pin the cart at the top of the comments or under the video information.

[@luvillan4641]

I have a Mazda B2500 5speed Is the 2.5 engine a lot easier to work on than the 2.3??

[@Outdoors-ty8hp]

Lu Villan yes

[@dal33tdude12]

I have a question! I have a 02 ranger with the 2.3L duratec. I have a noise coming from what seems to be the right top side of the front cover. After doing a TON of research i think the timing chain tensioner has broken. seems to be a common problem with these engines. All i want to do is be able to pull the front cover and check to see. Do i still have to worry about making sure the engine is TDC and use all the timing tools if the chain is never taken off, only the crank pulley? Is there a easy way to check without pulling valve cover, using all timing tools ect?

[@nthefastlane5542]

To do that you have to remove the intake manifold,take off the valve cover and then remove the crank pulley, once you remove the crank pulley the timing is no longer the same if you spin the motor.What I would do is get the motor to top dead center.. lock in the two cams with the file I showed and then pull the cover off and make sure the crank doesn't move by putting a bolt in the left side, then you can change out the tensioner and put it all back together. Make sure to put the friction plate back on before the crank pulley.

[@dal33tdude12]

I just want to say i love your channel. I just started browsing videos and found my problem and i now feel very silly/relieved that its so stupid and i have been so extremely worried. The flappers in the manifold are "chattering". I also feel dumb because i just had the intake off checking for this noise and had no idea i had the problem in my hand.... lol! SUBSCRIBED to the channel!

[@Nthefastlane]

dal33tdude12 Thanks Dal for the sub!

[@keith90102]

Thank you for the video! How long did it take you from start to finish?

[@Nthefastlane]

Long because of filming. Without filming, I'd say 4hrs.

[@kingofaquariums6422]

So if you were to blow the engine what parts would technically be blown ?

[@Zephry2]

What service manual were you using for this?

[@Nthefastlane]

Haynes Repair Manual

[@thisperson6655]

Haynes isn't so good. Not enough details

[@mamg2388]

I have the p0171 code on 2001 b2300 mazda but I already replace both oxygen sensor clean the mif sensor and replace my fuel filter do you know what can be the causr of that code? Thanks

[@Nthefastlane]

Vacuum leak can cause that..check the pcv hose and pcv that could be stuck closed..also it could be an exhaust leak before your bank 1 oxygen sensor l.you could have a stock fuel injector that's running you lean also could be an oily air filterand lastly you could have low fuel pressure due to either a bad fuel pump or a bad fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail.I hope this helps you out...if some of the words are misspelled it's because I'm texting from my phone lol

[@2833yangify]

how do u know if the cams aren't flip upside down when theres no marking? what if either cam was 180 degrees off?

[@Nthefastlane]

You will not be able to put the file into them because the slots will be below the cylinder head.

[@2103tony]

hey i have a 1991 mazda 2600i how can you take out the check engine light off or how can i find out the trouble code

[@Nthefastlane]

Plug a Obd2 scanner underneath the steering column and turn the key once. A sponsor is about to send me 2 bluetooth obd2 scanners that you can communicate with your cell phones. I'll be raffling one off this month or next month. Don't forget to sub!

[@steveo12491]

Its not a "how to" if you already have it halfway done. most of the battle is getting it apart. Do you have a tear down video?

[@Nthefastlane]

Not something I would want to work on.. I dislike Ford engine designs very much and hate working on them. There a frustrating engine to work on, nothings easy access. :/

[@fredyayala1983]

I Took all the bolts from the timing Chain out but is not cuming out any help

[@Nthefastlane]

Sorry Fredy for the late reply, I get hundreds of replies daily so its hard to keep up with them but did you unbolt the timing chain tensioner?

[@PC_CERTIFIED]

Is the same for a ford 2000 ranger 2.5

[@9102jack]

no, the 2.5 is actually a decent engine. none of this duratec crap applies.

[@PC_CERTIFIED]

thanks for the information and I finally go the 2000 ford ranger on the road and ya I found out how much the little 2.5 has holy shit by the way I have the stick shift Mazda transmission

[@Nthefastlane]

Yes the 2.5 single cam Ford Ranger engine is actually a pretty decent engine, it has 8 spark plugs, 2 for each cylinder.

[@Z4X010688]

Hello excellent your video but I wonder if you are below .... I tell you what happens to me: I have a 2002 Ford Ranger, 2.3L 16 valves is assumed to be equal to the Mazda B2300 and the problem is that on occasion only in the mornings to start loose blue smoke that lasts about 30 seconds as mentioned before this is only in the morning on the first start of the day and is sporadic. No loss of power. Oil consumption 946ml every 2000 km. Thread spark plugs with oil. Despues de los 30 segundos de humo no tira humo en el resto del dia. Con motor en temperatura de trabajo no tira humo al acelerar. Beforehand thanks for the help. But I do not like anything that my Pikup tire smoke. What cres be the problem? Greetings.

[@Nthefastlane]

It's your "Valve stem seals"..usually when you only get smoke on a cold start it's because over night the oil settles down the seal and sits on top of the piston..then when you start it it burns it off and quits smoking.

[@jelskylogiver8212]

I have problem of ford mondeo 2.0 duratec When you depress the acc pedal delay of power it will accelerate when its about to fully depress. But when its running in 40kph up..it runs normal...the problem is only when you stop and accelerate again there is a lack/delay of power..

[@Nthefastlane]

Change your plug wires and spark plugs, if that doesn't fix it change your coil packs.

[@Nthefastlane]

Also it could be your TPS, I did a video on that also.

[@jelskylogiver8212]

Big tnx...i will watch it.

[@5869travish]

Bro what happened to this channel

[@iandonnelly5970]

Is this a joke. This guy has no idea what he’s doing. LEAVE IT TO THE EXPERTS. At least I got a laugh from it But do not follow this guys advice!