Head Stud Broken Bolt Extraction | Subaru 2.5 Engine

[@MotoRestoFL]

The drill went off center because when you were pushing the quill it moved the head. If you’d have locked the column after centering I bet that wouldn’t have happened. The broken fragment would still have buggered up the threads but the off center was definitely visible in the video with the radial drill thrusting sideways.

[@terrafree]

I was going to say the same thing, when applying pressure on the quill you could see the drill bit drift away from center towards the opposite side of the hole

[@mt8149]

sixtyfiveford has a method of putting a piece of copper pipe into the hole and building up weld using a stick welder until he gets enough to weld a nut and extract the bolt. The copper sleeve protects the threads. It's nice to have another technique in case all else fails. Thanks for another great video.

[@marcosmota1094]

Nice, upvoted. But one still needs a flat-ish surface on the stub face, or the weld pool can hit the wall, even if only partially.

[@unclebuck5051]

@@marcosmota1094 If the weld pool partially touched the wall, I don't think it would stick to the threads.

[@clutch5sp989]

I've seen the vid. Brilliant technique he shows.

[@jheissjr]

ICWelds used the technique on a field repair - kzbin.info/www/bejne/qn3CoH-io7KbbM0

[@moniquereesby1366]

Yes and no, here the broken bolt was too deep, welding would not be possible.🐞

[@samrodian919]

Kyle I think the reason the drill walked also is that when you centred up on subsequent drilling cycles you didn't lock the radial drill head from swinging. You can see that as you were pushing hard on the quill handle the whole drilling head started to move over. Also I think in the first few attempts at the larger size you were running the speed a bit too fast and possibly burning the bit on the what was clearly a bloody hard bolt. But you got there in the end that's what counts!

[@daleolson3506]

You make a pilot dowel. Won’t walk

[@JonesMetalCraft]

Nice recovery. I second that about not locking the head while drilling, but it worked out in the end. Good job!

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

Yeah, it was a gamble!

[@KeefyKat]

Just wanted to point out that amazing video shot, where you have the cam attached to the engine hoist and ride the engine around the shop. There's something special there!

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

Yes indeed lol

[@davidaarons2488]

When I worked at a Caddy dealership, had to do that a lot on alum. blocks, pulled head bolts, just drilled it with hand drills and if it tore up threads, I put in a Heli-coil or Timesert, threads don't go to bottom. But ya can only do what customer wants. I would have recommended it, so it's on him if it won't take the torque and threads pull. Glad ya got work.

[@bostedtap8399]

No suggestions from me, great result, like the drill bush idea 👏. Thanks for sharing.

[@rcdogmanduh4440]

First I didn't watch the video. I'm a retired maintenance Machinist 30 years. Broken head bolt shouldn't be stuck once broken off. Bottomed out ( wrong length bolt) suspicion. At least he didn't bring it after breaking a drill in it, followed by a broken easy out! Solid carbide spade bit running as high as my Bridgeport would go! Keep having fun!

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

Thanks man

[@Finn-1992]

That hurt watching. I don´t know if you can´t lock the head, but the way everything bends out of center and moves to the right, minute 15:25 and so on, no wonder there are some stripped threads. Good that it worked, but not a great look.

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

👍

[@dieselguy62]

Head bolts up to 6 inches deep in the hole, I've used a specialty rod, X-tractalloy. A ten pound box i bought over a decade ago isn't half used yet. It takes very little of it

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

Good to know

[@ramblin_wreck]

Great job Kyle! I love the radial drill press method! Thanks!

[@chrisstott2775]

Concentrated alum solution will dissolve steel in the aluminium casting. Takes about 24 hours

[@charleswelch249]

With the aluminum block and the hole so deep. I feel like that was your best option for the situation at hand.

[@SeymourBalz]

What happens if you use as large a diameter bit, the size of the hole in the block ? Just tap trigger on drill, this allows the tip of the bit to mark the center.

[@moniquereesby1366]

Good job there, broken bolt/stud extraction is akin to metal dentistry.🐞

[@mikehiers4819]

Just wondering what brand of extractors you use. Thanks

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

Snap on

[@leebyrne2647]

I understand the idea of using a left handed bit to try and back the stud out... But at that RPM on a radial drill? If the stud did begin to unthread, where is it going to go? Certainly not up out of the hole, the drill bit is in the way!? I guess I am not understanding the reason for using a lefty in this situation. I always used a drill motor at slow rpms with a lefty.

[@johnlee8231]

Congrats on getting that out with an extractor. Never seem to have much luck myself with that style. I'd roll with using the old threads too.

[@mikefitzpatrick5209]

Heating it wasn't an option to see if that would loosen it?

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

Yeah hard to heat down in a hole

[@ophirb25]

Very nice. I liked your wobbly drill. 😁

[@jaythorne5208]

I would have taken the other part of the broken bolt....chucked in a lathe and drilled a hole 1/8 hole in it... Used as drill guide ....popped a torx bit in....screwed out....

[@donwest5387]

Is it a "stud" or a "bolt"?

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

Can be either

[@robertgregory8964]

Use a hex brass rod in a tap burner to drill a hex hole. Then use an Allen wrench.

[@fascistpedant758]

I think you're lucky that the left hand bits didn't try to spin the bolt out. I doubt the bit could have pushed the quill of that machine up fast enough to avoid a mess.

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

Maybe

[@RanjitSingh-h8b]

Good work 👍

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

Appreciate it.

[@donwest5387]

blowing air into everything?

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

?

[@mshort7087]

Being that is a steel bolt in an aluminum block I would have taken the slow approach and chemically dissolved the bolt with a solution of alum and water. It’s slow but safe. Thanks

[@jblueforge3131]

Great video, question.. What is the Straps on your boots, protection id imagine but specifically?

[@kylebracht]

He's made a video on them. They are protection but help with his plantar fasciitis

[@jblueforge3131]

@kylebracht thank you for tge reply

[@curtisroberts9137]

I've drilled out a few dozen broken bolts in automotive applications and I'll be danged but i was never smart enough to think of using a bushing. SMH. I feel so dumb. Thanks for the humiliation!! JK. Seriously though I am going to add that to my pack of facts to use in the future. Such a simple way to avoid thread damage. I do like to use LH bits when available in the right size even though I've only had one come out that way maybe twice. You never know when you will get lucky. Great job today.

[@nickcoleman1073]

Kyle, talk about getting lucky! Not with the extractor working out for you, but for not breaking a drill bit! The side load that was put on the bits when you were working the quill was stressful to watch, lol. Maybe lock the head swivel axis next time… But nonetheless, I do enjoy the channel and the honesty of mistakes made for all to learn from. Keep on carryin on.

[@arnearne12345]

if link worked on engines

[@egx161]

A long end mill would have cost hundreds of dollars. The boring mill would have been better but you you got lucky anyway. Nice job. Explain to the customer not to use chains around a head bolt. Doh!

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

Yeah agreed

[@edsmachine93]

Outstanding job Kyle. Sometimes on hard bolts I use Cobalt drill bits. Nice setup BTW! 👍 Have a great day.👍🇺🇸👍

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

Thanks Ed

[@robertfontaine3650]

Everyone's favourite job. Love it when an extractor works.

[@ypaulbrown]

Thread depth engagement needed is only as much as the diameter of bolt for maximum strength…at least this is what I have read…please correct me if I am mistaken…that was a good good giter done Kyle…you could see the drill walking in the final depth….easy outs are either great or really bad….cheers, Paulie

[@voltairegoethe]

FYI ... just did a quick search engine: For maximum strength generally its recommended to have 1.5 Diameter engagement for maximum strength/sheer capabilities. [so he should be ok]

[@fascistpedant758]

@@voltairegoethe That would be valid for the steel bolt in a steel bore. The steel bolt in aluminum threads would require more.

[@voltairegoethe]

@@fascistpedant758 makes total sense... softer metal - thanks for the adjustment - important

[@SuperJaXXas]

Nice work, those things make my worst nightmare, love the bushings!

[@kstricl]

That went about as well as some of my best (at home) broken bolt extractions. Right down to the nasty sounds the long bit made when it couldn't quite get a bite on that stud. Which reminds me, only been ignoring a broken exhaust stud on my old truck for 7 years...

[@michaelhallas6450]

Very good video. , love seeing repairs like that . Good job .

[@aaronfritz7234]

Thought those head are torque to yield bolts or stretch bolts. If so the are generally one time use. Might be also why it broke.

[@1djbecker]

These appear to be aftermarket studs rather than factory-style TTY bolts. That's why he used the awkward term "stud bolts". I don't think any but the very sleaziest engine rebuild would re-use TTY head bolts. It's other places such as main caps where it's tempting to reuse fasteners.

[@aaronfritz7234]

@ I think you’re right. After market head studs. just thought of it now but that’s probably why they are so hard.

[@1djbecker]

@@aaronfritz7234 You have to wonder if the marketing around strength encourages the aftermarket manufacturers to over-harden studs. The original designers can factor in all of the parameters to optimize for zero assembly failures and long life. Hobbyists are only going to look at the single marketing number.

[@kstricl]

Description says they are ARP head studs. Usually a good upgrade for increased clamping pressure when turning up the boost. They use really high grade metals which is why his bits had trouble biting. Hardness probably was a factor in snapping, the only question is if that happened in the car or when they were taking the engine apart.

[@dagorithe]

It’s always great to see someone else’s take on a task because you never know what technique will dove the problem.

[@terrycannon570]

I like the idea of using drill bushings Enjoyed it

[@hilltopmachineworks2131]

You better go buy a lottery ticket seeing you had success with an Easy Out. I never have any luck using them. Either they walk out or break.

[@junkmannoparts9696]

Hey Kile you yung guys got it good when it come to tools . having battery powered over newmatic type . I've drilled out a tap with a carbide drill bit had to order it and it got the job done but the bit was damaged #21 . good luck keep up the good work .JM 8 point socket .

[@normstaley9103]

lock the column and the head jesus.

[@aamechanic8154]

Those boots are insane looking! What brand are they?

[@bernardwill7196]

The radial drill press is a Carlton I presume ? And such a machine is best for doing that type of job cost effective. Great job Kyle. Greeting from Germany.

[@TheDayzman]

Also ich bevorzuge meine Raboma 😅

[@wizrom3046]

Dude! You really need to LOCK the arm rotation on that radial arm drill press. That looked real amateur hour with that arm swinging around almost snapping drill bits... 😖

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

It was equally painful for me to watch. I left the head unlocked so that I can let it float but probably should’ve locked it once it found its spot but hey when you’re working and trying to film things, sometimes you miss stuff. But I know the Internet has no tolerance for that.

[@jovanbabic489]

Great content mate! What's up with Lion lathe? Any new episodes coming out soon?

[@Xris-FJ1200]

Hi Kyle as you say this kind of operation can quickly become a nightmare... here you are lucky, I think, because the threaded piece is not rusted, it is enclosed in the engine housing. I have done this kind of operation many times on motorcycle cylinder heads, and here it is not the same job. When the exhaust studs break, it is because they are rusted, and the rust goes into the aluminum part. The last time I did that, I spent two whole days with a tungsten carbide cutter. In addition, on a motorcycle cylinder head, the studs are inclined and therefore are not perpendicular to the joint plane, it is very difficult to position on a drill. In addition, Japanese manufacturers use treated and hard steel to make these studs, it is strange because the efforts are not important to hold the exhaust pipes in place. I have never managed to use this type of extractor, the efforts are very important and if the tool breaks, it is a disaster. With the small sizes, the extractor makes the broken part "swell" and blocks it even more. However, I also have the conical drill bits that go with it. I systematically put stainless steel studs in place of the original ones, it no longer rusts and it holds very well. Congratulations again for this work which is, I believe, the most difficult in repairing an engine. Xris Envoyer des commentaires Résultats de traduction disponibles

[@ПетрКурнев]

My Congradulanions ! 💥 Thanks a lot for sharing your experience.

[@clutch5sp989]

YaY....I've never had success with "easy-out" extractors. When the tool is wippy wapped into the pilot hole, it creates outward pressure locking the bolt even more. Like you mentioned, busted exhaust bolts get a welded nut on em as the heat also helps loosen.

[@jameswood9764]

Drill bushings should be just a thousand under the size of the hole?

[@jeffreykull4676]

that's got to be one of the worst to do .i work on a lot of stuff that has bin out in the whether for 50 plus years and it vary rarely goes eazy. just found your channel keep up the good work.

[@jimnaz5267]

very clever to create those drill guides. a shame you did not have the correct size of quality drill bits on hand. thanks for sharing.

[@donwest5387]

are you a "machinist"?

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

?

[@lonniebrock3282]

Hey man very good video do all of them no matter what they are

[@พรสวรรค์ปทุมซ้าย-ผ7ค]

Some people might say it’s not very smart to wear rings on your fingers when using machine tools…just sayin’😅

[@dazinull]

Not a stupid question but what have you got on ur feet??

[@stevevender1154]

Essentially strap-on floor mats to reduce foot pain. He explained them in an earlier video.

[@DanielCoffey67]

This is the video... kzbin.info/www/bejne/gYLKq2qnjNGAe7c

[@VanoverMachineAndRepair]

Thanks Steve

[@billdoodson4232]

Nice job again Kyle. You have to wonder how your customer managed to snap it off, tightening it up.

[@khabizhzhansuev8517]

Сверло по бетону переточить и не мучаться

[@ypaulbrown]

Fantastic Kyle….Paul in Orlando❤

[@MikeBaxterABC]

Good one!! .. I like broken bolt videos!! :) .. maybe there is a style of Loctite for head bolts?? .. might help!!

[@gerryoneill8881]

Good fix, but I think it is odd that you use your ajustable wrenches backwards.

[@stevechambers9166]

Good save Kyle that could of ended up a lot worse 👍👍👍

[@jamesriordan3494]

Old school EDM 🙌

[@stephenbridges2791]

I worked as a mechanic with a guy back in the 70's that was something else. He'd wait until he had and EZ-Out broke off in the broken stud before he would ask for help. I told him one time he made Goober Pyle look like a rocket scientist. Hated picking up after him. Glad you got that one out.

[@anthonycash4609]

I think all of us mechanics has had one of those guys before. We had one that we called powder puff he never could figure out why we called him that. But it was known all over the shop that he could take a powder puff and beat an anvil to death. Lol.

[@stephenbridges2791]

@@anthonycash4609 😄

[@terryjennings2356]

Way too fast with the left hand drill. You want stupid slow and lots of down pressure. You are not trying to drill out the bolt. You are trying to "bite" the bolt to make it turn.

[@fredericorusso]

Does your drill head not have a lateral column lock??? Watching you walk those bits up to an inch (at the chuck) made my nuts shrivel. Damn, man, you got lucky. 😂. Try centering the bit and locking the column/head next time, and you won’t butcher the threads. Otherwise, nice job. 😅

[@5eZa]

you messed up the thread. your drill bushings weren't the right size an it was wobbling all over. yea you really need a carbide drill for that. expensive but the extra stiffness makes a huge difference. steel bits wobble all over the place

[@robertginther9248]

Your drill bushing wasn't long enough. Make it miss the stud end by about 1/8 - 3/16 & then drill. Keeps it centered even if the stud broke at an angle. I have a selection of carbide drills to help in these situations. (Even have used a cement drill resharpened on my diamond wheel to get it drilled).

[@Bradley-r8o]

Would you have actually posted this if you failed to get the bolt out

[@ColinLennard]

Different - thanks

[@JuanRamos-ly8yg]

You are using the wrench up side down. Flipped 180 degrees please

[@Rusty-Metal]

Give it a rest. Makes no difference with a sloppy adjustable wrench. Plenty of vids showing this.

[@SepticWhelk]

My game plan is to be some wear else , to many ways it can go horribly and expensively wrong ! Ask me how I know lol.

[@willemvantsant5105]

Hmm, Subaru, head gasket leaker!!!

[@jdmccorful]

Thanks for the "tell" ! Good stuff.

[@Cromwell648]

The goal was to extract the broken bolt. You succeded in that. Ignore the experts on here. 👍👍🔩