@dog22222 9 ай бұрын
I really dont think its close. Hedi completely revived the brand; YSL is synonymous with Hedi. Theres just really no beating that legacy, especially with how good his work is aging with Celine.
@LOWluxury 9 ай бұрын
For sure, much prefer Hedi and his influence is inarguable, I think.
@noiretblancetmoi 9 ай бұрын
As a Saint Laurent Fan myself and both a Slimane and Vaccarello - I love a lot of the Hedi Slimane designs because it's very much a call to his time off from Dior Homme to just before he was in Saint Laurent. A lot of the his designs remind me of the Indie Alt rock scene in LA during the early 10s. But Vaccarello designs I believe are in the more Euro idea of disco, 70s, goth, rock, punk vibes. It has this element of which that classic European tailoring or chic-ness is there but these small little details in both the silhouette and designs. It feels more fantastic version of "normal" clothes. Does seem like people coming out of the movie when I see the runway shoes.
@LOWluxury 9 ай бұрын
Yeah especially post-pandemic Vaccarello's stuff has taken a much larger turn away from Hedi's aesthetic and he's carved his path more. Like you said, to me his recent stuff reads as very old Hollywood, which ain't a bad vibe.
@noiretblancetmoi 9 ай бұрын
@@LOWluxury I'm just very curious to see where the brand is heading because in terms of the ideas that are being brought forward from Vaccarello currently it feels that the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent back in his heyday is adding influence to some of the Vaccarello designs
@ladyjunon6305 7 ай бұрын
The discrepancies between Slimane's YSL Vaccarello's YSL lies in their very opposed skill set: Slimane's strength lies in menswear. Like most menswear designers, Slimane designs "by formula", creating the perfect coat, the perfect pant, the perfect boot. While this is more than sufficient for the narrow design scope of menswear, it doesn't make for interesting womenswear. By designing by formula, Hedi strips out the unorthodoxy needed for womenswear, especially with the context of a biannual runway show and numerous campaigns. Vaccarello's strength lies in womenswear. Running his own womenswear brand for eight years prior to his appointment, Vaccarello had the unorthodoxy needed to address the more diverse demands of womenswear. It also helped Saint Laurent slowly shift itslef as Slimane was starting at Celine. That said, without considerable restraint, it leads to the creation of silhouettes that can feel alien and unapproachable to most menswear clients. The broad-shouldered square-cut jackets in his recent show is an example of that. TL,DR: Slimane does better menswear, Vaccarello does better womenswear.
@BltchErica 2 ай бұрын
The stacked leather on the heels of the shoes is most likely fake btw, I've seen a teardown of YSL boots and they had a plastic core inside the heel.
@BlakeVakili 9 ай бұрын
Absolutely crazy you have those studded pants. I used to have that same exact pair. Quality is next level!
@LOWluxury 9 ай бұрын
Hell yeah! I've been wearing them all the time, they're a new go-to.
@NodoKaii 9 ай бұрын
I love this video. I love Hedi and everything he did and does. Vacarello as you said kind of rode the wave of hedi and overtook his aesthetic. The newest collections are really a miss for me for SLP. Womenswear with the exaggerated shoulders are fine, the menswear however are really disappointing imo. Honestly SLP is still one of my favourite brands, sadly only the core collection which who could’ve guessed, was all from Hedi. I will still be a fan, but if the brand continues on the path it’s on, I will only be a Celine customer.
@LOWluxury 9 ай бұрын
Yeah, I am MUCH more likely to buy modern Celine than modern Laurent. But can still appreciate some of what AV does, and definitely am still a buyer of archival Hedi SLP stuff.
@jeffreyroering 9 ай бұрын
Not a fan of Hackarello
@erique_k 9 ай бұрын
I wonder who this could be..
@stormzybanksy 2 ай бұрын
@lowluxury love your red and black cardigan. who makes it??
@LOWluxury 2 ай бұрын
Undercover!
@burgersuperking 9 ай бұрын
YSL collections until like 2022 are made by Hedi and modified by a designer team. It all remained in Kering's IP. Vaccarello started designing menswear only recently, 22-24 vampire chic collections with megashoulders are his work. Vaccarello is definitely MUCH better womenswear designer than Hedi, FW19 is absolutely epic, as well as those after COVID. I personally want a shawl-neck stuff from the current collection, and all Vaccarello's megacoats, and shoulderpad blazers/leopard trench from SS24
@LOWluxury 9 ай бұрын
Is this a conspiracy or something I'm unaware of? Honestly it does make sense. But there are interviews and everything with Vaccarello for every collection since Hedi left where he's talking about his inspiration etc for the collections so clearly the impression they're trying to give is that he's designing them.
@burgersuperking 9 ай бұрын
@@LOWluxury can you link them? maybe its just about the womenswear, or commercial team told him to say that. But designs are clearly all Hedi's, and I've talked to people from fashion schools, they say that a big chunk of Vaccarello's SLP is just recycled Hedi's stuff, and its an reasonable commercial decision.
@LOWluxury 9 ай бұрын
@@burgersuperking I've spent the morning looking into it, and can't find any confirmation of this. All of the interviews I've found (feel free to Google, there are tons. But Most of the ones I looked at were Vogue Runway and NYT) attribute all YSL fully to AV. But as I said in the video, I think for the first few years he was clearly taking direct inspo from Hedi, and I believe much of Hedi's design team was still in place there. If I had to guess, Hedi has not been designing for YSL but AV was not yet confident in his own work and was recycling Hedi's for a while. The reason I doubt this is because Hedi works for Celine, an LVMH brand. YSL is owned by Kering so it'd be a bit scandalous for him to be working for one under the table, and I have to assume would be a very expensive breach of his contract at Celine.
@stormzybanksy 2 ай бұрын
this is a juicy and salacious conspiracy theory, sure, backed by anecdotal hearsay. without any real sources or proper citation of evidence across the literal internet, it's pretty clear that this is not the reality. no real creative would be satisfied living off someone else's work for years while taking the credit. being inspired by and evolving the aesthetic is, naturally, par-for-course in taking over a creative house, where customers do not want a sudden 180-pivot in brand identity. but passing it all off to a design team and going out to lunch, the way you're suggesting, is total fiction.
@neonANIMS 9 ай бұрын
Biasedcut on hiatus?
@LOWluxury 9 ай бұрын
Yeah I think that's fair to say, unfortunately! Hopefully we can bring it back at some point.
@stormzybanksy 2 ай бұрын
design-wise, hedi is a visionary, sure. but most of the clothes he made for SLP were tight and tiny beyond imagination. men would have to size 1-2x up just to get a normal fitting garment. this was just silly. vacarello will probably never outstep slimane's shadow, rightfully or wrongfully. even if he started designing collections that ended up being more profitable or culturally influential than slimane (some might argue that he has already done that), slimane is such a legend that vacarello will never be regarded with the same air of reverence. it's not fair, but it is what it is. that said, i love vacarello's collections and buy a lot from SLP these days as i love the tailoring, and because a size IT48 is a true size IT48.