HELP US FIX THIS VAN!!! Transporter T5 CFCA

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Thanks to everyone that commented and contributed to getting this van fixed. Watch the video here to see what we did - kzbin.info/www/bejne/haXcZ5yOrtaLhdE

[@StueyMonster]

Props for asking for assistance. I get more impressed with Darkside the more I see of them. Also, it might be the fuel leak off pipe ;)

[@pumpvolumes]

100%

[@vScoobyDoox]

Whatever it is please give us a follow up video as issues like this are always interesting

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Video dropping today of what we test!

[@ndelockedout]

As mad as this sounds, I had an issue with a trafic, it would rev to a certain amount and just stop pulling and cut out, it turned out to be a dodgy fuse feeding the clocks. Not sure if this will help but anything is worth a look

[@helmnutter1634]

Check the throttle pedal If thats a fly by a sensors gone or even a loose connector

[@1AndOnlyCptChaos]

Just what i was thinking

[@2012richj]

yea me 3 had similar problem with one of my cars and lets face it everything else is new on the van lol

[@CR4NEY2009]

The Throttle pedal seems to be a common issue on Volkswagens

[@shanefaulkner7045]

my guess too

[@sweetlands2871]

Had the same prob with a late t4. Wiring in engine bay by servo had broken.

[@adamlangwell1963]

I work for a vw cv dealer and have a similar fault with a customers van at the minute, its slightly different though. My customer said his van cuts out intermittently 3 times in 4 months and I've got no fault codes and I can't replicate the fault. He's had the AA and vw roadside assist out to it and they can't fault it either, so I contacted vw technical and I've been instructed to replace the G247 fuel pressure sensor as they are known to cause issues like this. I know you said you have changed it but it might be worth trying another on it as you're not getting fault codes and it is cutting out and when it does cut out you have a discrepancy with fuel rail pressure.

[@kirstysinclair9021]

Those clocks are screwing up the can bus signal I’d bet you . Install the proper clocks to be sure or unplug them and see if it will run without .

[@davyarthurs]

Surely you’d get a loss of comms fault code on can networks. Scoping the can network will prove or disprove your theory.

[@kirstysinclair9021]

Cruise control output ?

[@SpartanMJO12]

My mate's boss had a Superb that was doing a similar thing - it had had water in the fusebox but if you've done a new loom and tested continuity I think you've got a ghost haunting yer van

[@martingarbutt7614]

I think the next step would be to fit OEM clocks to it aswell as a new accelerator pedal assembly with throttle position sensor, perform basic settings and reset the throttle adaption values. 👍

[@repairlad1934]

Every one needs help and advice at some point no need to be embarrassed at least you have the balls to say your stuck and don’t know what to do next Instead just giving up because it show you are a good genuine person who will go to any lengths to fix a problem for there customers so respect ✊ from me 🤛🏻 please do post a video if you manage to solve this issue

[@thedetailingdoctor5746]

Well done though guys your customer service is on a very high level !

[@kingy550]

Hi Darkside / Ryan, If you haven't already, using the picoscope, can you measure can bus High and low, and see if the waveform gets messed up when the fault occurs. This might give you a bit of direction. My mate and I are currently working on his range rover sport that has a driveability issue caused by a can fault. It will randomly flash the hazzards, wipe the windows and lock and unlock the doors repeadedly. every time this happens, the Can high and low waveform goes crazy. If the can bus waveform is all wonky, I would start disconnecting modules, in turn, to find the culprit. Hope this helps, Best of luck, Richard.

[@benjohansson9741]

Im not going to be able to stop thinking about this damn issue now!

[@neilcalvert1764]

As said above check throttle pedal signals, had a T4 with a very similar issue

[@ty27tp]

Is the battery voltage fluctuating before/during it happens? Fuses to clocks, relays etc probably been checked but just a shout

[@antonygardner250]

TPPS when foot to floor(kick down) not in sync with non genuine binacle/dash clocks gear position indicator... suggest replacing and coding the clocks/binacle...

[@timpricedrums]

On the plus side… once this issue is sorted, the customer basically has a brand new van mechanically 👍🏻

[@grantswan8525]

steady there cowboy, he won't get it all for free

[@timpricedrums]

@@grantswan8525 surely it’s not going to cost more than £250?! 😜😂

[@ianmills1120]

Shutting down under load screams boost leak. Disconnecting the boost pipe direct at the intake you’re still able to get a difference between ecu requested boost and what the boost pressure sensor is seeing. Got to be worth a try sticking a new intercooler on it.

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Not a boost leak

[@joshfozzy7895]

This is a great way of picking a new employee rather then going through all the shit C.Vs you must receive. Sent the video to my old man who is belting with 1.6 caddy’s and his reply was should bought a transit! 🤞🏼 you fix it.

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its how Paul got his job in the First place!

[@SaqibKhaliq]

Sounds like throttle position sensors or TPS to me. Also, I suggest you check the resistance across the can bus.. should be 60ohm. Next step - unplug the ecu, then unplug each sensor one by one and check continuity and short to ground for every single wire. Lastly.. you may have two sensors with the same plug, check they are not swapped. Happy to talk on the phone about it. Give me a shout.

[@ionizer96]

Has to be an electrical or sensor problem. Electrical problems are a nightmare to sort out, my friend had a Mazda 6 2.0D that would cut out when coming on boost, truned out to be a wire laying on the cylinder head, insulation rubbed through and when the engine comes on power the engine rocks slightly and bam, like something hit it with a sledge hammer. Good luck with fixing it, considering how much diagnostic and R&R work you'd done luck is your only option :D

[@vw_mods_4711]

I have fitted those clocks on mine they are Lockwood dials kph/mph conversion as those clocks have come from a foreign vehicle just like mine from Lithuania.

[@protecautomotive7002]

Hats off to you for your commitment. Faults with common rail diesel fuel systems can be a nightmare to find. Definitely I'd 1st check if the fault was present before the repair? Are there any 're occurring faults in other systems? You can't ignore the fuel pressure fault. After changing fuel components like sensors, pumps ect have you 're adapted the learnt values? I've had a similar fault on an Audi A4 2.0 TDI CR. After all the fuel system changed due to fuel contamination the ECU stored the adaption values from the old parts. After adapting the values of the fuel rail metering valve all was fine. If all ok it has to be a wrong value from a sensor limiting the power. Exhaust gas temp sender, boost pressure sender. Only flags a fault if sender goes out of valid range. Not all senders have a specified value as they are constantly changing depending on signals from all others. Lastly go over every single part that isnt original to that vehicle, VW have a habit of superceeding parts but not telling anyone. We get jobs from time to time that really defy everything we know. Sounds like a really shit job but strangely feel drawn in. Would love to hear the outcome.

[@DarksideDevelopments]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/haXcZ5yOrtaLhdE

[@grego3150]

Kudos for asking for help......let us know how this one pans out👍

[@Volfmech]

Here's a fix : Put it on the back of the T5 flat bed transporter... 😉 Kudos to reaching out rather than throwing in the towel. You mentioned in the write up it has aftermarket dial kit, can you expand on that all? Take it you can't just run the van without the clocks in place (Immo?)

[@qvordinolov7759]

No codes lead me to think it's something with the ABS thinking u are pushing the two pedals . Try swapping it

[@Dave365IRL]

If it has auto stop-start check the loom between the gearbox and the ECU. I have seen a similar issue with these going funny with a bad ground and dropping the gearbox out of drive at certain engine temps with no fault codes showing...

[@DarksideDevelopments]

No stop start.

[@nathanfarley4981]

Hey up pal, I am assuming the van didn’t do this before the engine rebuild ? If not then, my comment isn’t one to offend in the slightest but have you checked all the fuel lines are in the correct order, I once had a 2011 2.0 TDi golf had the feed and return line the wrong way round on the pump in the tank and the car would run fine for sometimes weeks then just loose power or cut out and coil light flash with a fuel pressure fault code can’t remember if it was a high pressure fault or low pressure fault. But maybe worth a look.

[@thejoneseys]

The next thing to change are the number plates with another vehicle 😁 I can't imagine how much effin has been done over this van. Sore knuckles and sore head material this is. I think I'd defo look at the live values that throttle pedal is returning as it's slowly pressed to the floor. Hope you do a follow up video guys 👍🏻

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its very stressful!

[@Adam_t5]

Hi a issue just like this one with a Vauxhall vivaro, turned out that changing the complete throttle pedal sorted it 👍

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its not the pedal or the wiring, video dropping tonight hopefully! Cheers

[@Randomjunk-l8o]

I had this problem with a customer's t5 and was the throttle pedal faulty. I had help from (oscar diagnostics)

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its not the pedal or the wiring, video dropping tonight hopefully! Cheers

[@Pats-Shed]

With the DPF blocking , there is a possibility that the exhaust gas temperature sensor is going out of calibration, causing the ecu to command higher fuel pressure and injector duty cycle, this happened to a 2.5 Vivaro that I had . Worth a shot 👌

[@DarksideDevelopments]

EGT all good!

[@alisternelson]

The Citroen C5 my dad had a few years back I think had a similar issue. I believe the valve chest in the gearbox was f*#ked which caused the issue. May be worth a look.

[@fcmp3629]

Check the accelerator pedal travel, connectors and cable. I used to have a motor a few years ago that when you floored it, it kind of did the same thing. Flooded the engine and sometimes stalled if you didn't do as your doing an take foot off and then back on. It was all to do with the travel of the pedal for me that finally sorted it. It was nothing as new as your working on but as soon as I watched what was happening it just flashed me back in time. Hope you get to the bottom of it, it's a proper head scratcher 👍

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its not the pedal or the pedal wiring, video dropping tonight hopefully! Cheers

[@fcmp3629]

@@DarksideDevelopments fair doos just gave me flash backs an had to share. Fingers crossed it's sorted an extra fair doos on asking for help takes a big man to admit he's stuck 👍👍 Good luck in all you do 👍

[@TomSmithsmit]

If Darkside, Bellmans & VW can't solve it I think it's fire time.

[@Devonian-gg7gr]

The dodgy clocks could be making the van think it's at its speed limit and stopping it injecting fuel as a form of limiter

[@Devonian-gg7gr]

Map out the speed limiter if you can/if it has one

[@whitemarmite]

sounds somethings getting hot, expanding and loosing connection. id be getting a heatgun out, locating any and all control boxes such as BCM or ECU etc... start heating elements up, testing it on a dyno to see if it gets worse/consistantly repeatable. hopefully that might be a good fault finding way if its electrical.

[@Littlegreenlightweight]

I had this problem with my Leon tdi dsg. It didn't cut out but it did back the revs off. It was throttle pedal. My car was an ex motability car and the problem was how they fitted the hand controls to the pedal had put excess load on the potentiometer causing burn marks on the circuit tracks. May be worth checking.

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its not the pedal or the pedal wiring, it would have been nice if it was! video dropping tonight hopefully! Cheers

[@northernmoss]

Wow that’s getting expensive. I had a new engine in mine earlier this year, thankfully works ok. Was gonna bring to you for custom map and egr delete. If u want it for comparison your welcome.

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Bring it, we will steak its parts! haha

[@AnthonyNeilPace]

I'd check that dodgy cluster, and the immo + the ECU it's self.... I'd also take a look at the accelerator pedal. This looks very electronic to me.

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its not the pedal or the wiring, tried Immo off and a different ECU, video dropping tonight hopefully! Cheers

[@sidewayssam]

Scratching my head now...you have done everything I can think of. Have you checked the brake servo?

[@shiftinggears9896]

Check all the earth straps 1st on all of the motor. And change all the relays, yes you can test them but sometimes they fuck about. Throttle position sensor? Faulty throttle body acting up occasionally on full load. Swap the boost solenoid out for another if you have another on the shelf or can borrow. Continuity test all the maf wiring too, as much as you can on the loom. Smoke test it too if you haven't already. Hope you fix it 👍 would love to know what the actual cause was in the end.

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Earths good, Relays all swapped, SOlenoids checked, Loom swapped. Boost leak tested. Its not the pedal or the pedal wiring, video dropping tonight hopefully! Cheers

[@Nathanelec]

Nice one asking for help with this. Clocks as a few people have said, not sure if Bellmans have done this but sniffing the drive CAN bus? See if it crap itself when the engine dies or if everything looks normal

[@bobtech9933]

Had a similar problem it was the ambient temp sensor reading was out of wack

[@trippywill5945]

have you thought about setting it on fire ? and claiming on the insurance ?

[@vw_mods_4711]

Mine was a bit jumpy so swapped the fuel pressure regulator £300 part running 💯 now

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Tried all that!!

[@krislove1980]

Massive kudos for admitting defeat, my first thought is perhaps the traction control/abs/speed sensors are detecting a problem/faulty and cutting power… I’m pretty sure the coil light illuminates during loss of traction as well?! 🤔

[@DarksideDevelopments]

yeah its not that!

[@petebird7171]

Hi guys not embarrassing at all, sensible move asking the wider community, looked at what you’ve done seems pretty thorough, I’d check CAN network ohms at the resistors and ALL earths , jobs like this are a total nightmare, good luck and I’ll keep thinking 🤔🤔👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@davyarthurs]

Best of luck.

[@christophermanby2068]

I had a similar problem on my passat cc it would stall (dsg box fitted) came up with a fuel pressure fault code plus throttle position for pedal it turned out to be a faulty boost pressure sensor that was shorting out and taking all of the 5v that the system required witch was same 5v system that the fuel pressure used, also had a crank sensor code once new bps sensor fitted is been fine since

[@RichardStefanits]

Sounds like some kind of power issue to one of the control modules due to vibration for a very short time. Or something similar on the can bus, not sure that is even possible.

[@tigertiger19]

Try. Disconnecting the abs pump unit and see if that makes any difference

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Tried it, no good!

[@motojojo_]

Wow! That's a hell of a mystery. When you were talking I was thinking gearbox but obviously that's now been ruled out. Feels like this is going to be silly little thing that folk never thought of. Really interested to know what Oh, and to join in the totally random guesses cuz this is a YT comments section 🤣... heat+full load (more or less) = fuel line kinking enough to restrict so it exceeds expected pressure and cuts

[@123reetlad]

also if the 5v ref to the sender is going to anything else try to capture what the voltage at the sender is when it fault, see this in a few 2.0 tdi audi engines that reference voltage signal is worth a luck mate

[@123reetlad]

n276 and n290 share same voltage terminal 87 if my cfd is correct so that will be battery voltage appro not ecu 5v ref could still be worth but also if you lost throttle pedal signal the fuel pressure fault may be consequential not unheard of for the wiring to g69 to have a resistive issue.

[@jasonschofield100]

Is it the throttle valve control module? In particular the throttle drive angle sensor. Can you put a multi meter on it and see the resistance value at wide open throttle? Depends what sort of sensor vw use - could be a hall sensor or inductive sensor. It might be going open circuit. Hence why it’s only noticeable when you’re giving it full throttle and not at part throttle. I would also look at the accelerator pedal position sensors. But you say it only happens when hot, so more likely in the engine bay.

[@craigj2483]

Bit of a daft 1 but have you checked for any air leaks under load ? Is the maf ok ? Seen similar issues with t5's and it was usually a dodgy maf bust hose and 1 had a naffed intercooler. If not them it sounds like the sensors are working against each other 1 is telling the ecu something another is telling it different

[@ukfozzybear]

VCDS will let you log/monitor the throttle pedal values and throttle valve, would be interesting to see what that is doing. Also those clocks... I'm sure your right to be suspect of them. They control all sorts of things including speed limiting functions and immo.

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its not the pedal or the pedal wiring, video dropping tonight hopefully! Cheers

[@adam6900]

Need to swap the turbo with a known good one and take the exhaust off 100% if it’s still injecting when it cuts out it can only be a air path fault

[@adam6900]

The 2 times I have had that issue it’s been the same, twat to diagnose 1 single turbo one bi turbo, when. It cut if you came off the throttle straight away it would spring back into life, if you kept it to the floor it would end up stalling every time, but then I hope this is a trick video

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Still does it with EGR pipe off

[@mattybean4039]

Seat Leon FR DSG, similar symptoms…loss of power, coil light, stalling, fault diagnosed as Mechatronics. Seat installed new Mechatronics and no more issue

[@race2win2021]

Clean common rail, clean rail pressure sensor and retest(had before fuel contamination and when contamination reached pressure sensor it will go nuts) . I've seen 400 bar difference, it does same pressure difference every time fault occurs? Hope it helped.

[@DarksideDevelopments]

logged Fault hardly occurs, fuel system is clean!

[@TeamTurd4x4]

Had a similar thing on a manual Td5 disco was the pedal sensor failed. And Discovery 3 autos do strange things when the brake pedal sensors fail aswell

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Pedal did not help!

[@neilhibbert5201]

Hi I used to be a RTE for Renault uk this looks like a wiring loom fault in engine bay.You are going to need wiring looam wiring diagrams the this model and the routing to find .then. I hope this helps .

[@josefmrkvicka9447]

Try logging all torque limitations first - driver's wish, engine torque, transmission torque, smoke limitation, fuel/air/exhaust temp limitation etc. to rule out that car is doing it "on purpose" because of some faulty sensor reading. If all limitations are fine and there is reasonable request for injected fuel quantity and car is still cutting out, then i'd look elswhere, but I think this should be done first to rule out software/sensor based issues.

[@24567442]

Glad to see someone who can fix something rather than codemn it to the scrapyard. Well done darkside. Was thinking of getting a VW disel. Is ther any engine relaible outside of the 1.9 guys?

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Quite a few, depends what car you want.

[@24567442]

@@DarksideDevelopments skoda octavia circa 2014 tdi 2.0

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Yeah, they tend to be reliable aslong as they have been looked after like any other car

[@24567442]

@@DarksideDevelopments thankyou for your reply. Love the channel

[@SaqibKhaliq]

Also.. have you monitored and checked the 5v ref to all the sensors? Checked the sensor grounds? Has got to be a electronics issue.. the software is shutting the thing down

[@craigbucknall3415]

Faulty PRV? Kick down upping the rail pressure and a weak PRV dumping pressurised fuel to return. Or metering valve in HP pump? Had it in large HP plant engines.

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Tested those!

[@sebischmitz777]

It seems to me as though something tells the ECU to stop injecting any fuel and that's why the injection quantity just drops off kind of gradualy like that. My idea would be a problem related to the current vehicle speed values of the car, maybe that cuts out intermittently and when the engine is at too high of an RPM while that happens the ECU just brainfarts itself and cuts Power. That would also make sense looking at the twitchy speedo.

[@Franksey180]

I've not watched the "fixed" video yet, but that instrument cluster looks like a Euro/Irish cluster that has had an aftermarket dial fitted to convert it to MPH. Tell tail details are the general mismatched looking speed numbers (not exactly factory style "font" on the numbers) and that it indicates up to 150 MPH due to the different speed marker calibration on KMH clusters. A genuine UK cluster on this model would indicate up to 140 MPH. I'd bet the main cluster part number is 7E0920870x where as a UK genuine cluster would be 7E0920970x (I'd like to have seen the VCDS log but you didn't attach any files to the video?). Cluster part number is displayed on module 17 on VCDS. I'm not saying the cluster dial change is the reason for the fault but this vehicle is likely an Irish import. I have dealt with some older T5s that had clocks that were mullered by people changing dials over to import them and they damaged the clusters internally, but it didnt cause running issues.

[@sidewayssam]

Hi gents, Motorclaimguru here, Do you have a picoscope? have you checked the output from the throttle on the variable resistance? Is it running IAT? Is it running an electronic boost actuator? my guess is that it is the boost actuator, goes into limp home mode, then comes out of limp...but, Faulty IAT can cause all sorts of weird ongoings.

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Yeah we do but we THINK we have fixed it - kzbin.info/www/bejne/haXcZ5yOrtaLhdE

[@fux101]

Similar issue on one early pd tdi and new alternator solve the problem on the end of trial and trials...

[@modermonkula]

Friends van had a similar issue. Found out that fitting PD130 engine seemed to have sorted it.

[@stevenlee4437]

😂

[@ShalomBrother]

A gallon of petrol and match maybe? 🤷🏽‍♂️

[@jwhitz481]

Is it worth re-coding the dash pod and keys to the immobiliser, it's as if there is some anti theft feature or immobiliser is kicking in when it shouldn't

[@BikerBrad72]

Van fitted with a speed limiter as it seems to be around 68 whenever it stops? And then that’s causing issues with getting back into power?

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its not a speed limiter, gets past 70 easily

[@BikerBrad72]

@@DarksideDevelopments Fuck knows. Guess I’ll have to watch the new video see whats happened now

[@joshward1148]

I had the same issue with my van, turned out there was a hole in the back of the intercooler

[@123reetlad]

rail pressure circuit a ? if so re wire high pressure sensor back to the ecu with new pins each end.

[@markcraven4641]

Had bmw do something similar turned out to be alternator charging at near 19 volts just a thought but check what volts it’s charging at could also be down to a dodgy abs pump

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Alternator is not the issue!

[@donaljamescaddye3805]

An intermittent problem like that is a time robber - sorry lads yous have covered everything I can think of bar the clocks themselves - please let us know what you find ! I have faith you will find the issue - that is a cert!

[@pumpvolumes]

had similar issues on crafter 2.0l. exhaust temp sensor bank 1 sensor 3

[@pumpvolumes]

**on back of can

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its not an EGT sensor.

[@systemofadown158]

Hi guys, I'd log the TPPS while fault occurs and see if the ecu is seeing no throttle input, also log brake pedal pressure when fault occurs incase the abs modules thinks both pedals are being depressed at once.

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its not the pedal or the pedal wiring, video dropping tonight hopefully! Cheers

[@C24-k3c]

Codes kind of related to throttle pedal fault ? Or maybe those clocks messing up can bus

[@PhoenYx114]

have you tried to look if can bus signals betwen moduls is looking correct before it cuts out

[@harryabbott8327]

It could be worth trying a different throttle pedal as it sounds like it could be not reading the wot position but then picks up the reading again as you lift off.

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its not the pedal or the wiring, video dropping tonight hopefully! Cheers

[@Franz_giblet]

Intelligent auto who has a channel on KZbin is a genius and seems to be able to diagnose/fix anything, I’d recommend watching his videos and contact him.

[@smashonic]

to me looks like an electrical problem, first of i'm thinking on accelerator pedal problem, but cant be that simple, can signals, fuses relays. Hope you get it working, I know how it is, vw stuff....

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its not the pedal or the pedal wiring, video dropping tonight hopefully! Cheers

[@markhall4995]

What’s the wheel speed sensors reading when it happens could be an abs pick up on a wheel bearing throwing the dsg off

[@VolksWorkshop]

I was going to say brake light switch is worth checking as i had one do a similar fault of cutting power whilst driving as it was making a contact sometimes but looks like you have done it already. have you logged anything in ABS ? wheel speed of all four wheels on a test drive

[@DarksideDevelopments]

ABS unplugged and it still does it!

[@leehawkins7337]

Those trainers are to blame 😂😂 Definitely sounds like electrical fault. Fair play for asking on KZbin sometimes a fresh pair of eyes can work wonders. Hope you get it sorted soon 👍

[@DarksideDevelopments]

DC Crisis, its all in the name, lol!

[@timbo19751975]

Just thinking aloud and off the cuff -am thinking a power feed dropping out , although it instantly re-starts fine. Crank sensor, but logs show nice rpm. Throttle pedal but it should drop to idle not cut out and also log a fault code. throttle valve for some reason shutting and strangling the engine? You don't mention any smoke and injectors should still be firing, so probably not. Does it have a mechanical rail release valve for over pressure ? What about flashing the ecu to remove or raise the fuel pressure limiter - will it still do it ?

[@lewiswhite9430]

Throttle position sensor is likely but also check voltage at time of fault, I’ve had bad rectifiers cause some weird issues at peak load/revs

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its not the pedal or the pedal wiring, video dropping tonight hopefully! Cheers

[@CR4NEY2009]

Replace the clocks

[@dannylee7032]

I have had the same issue but mine keep stalling. Had the clocks change and a fuse in the fuse box

[@slozz8196]

Identical symptoms on a BLS PD engine + manual transmission. Issue was caused by a shitty tuning box which just messes with fuel pressures --> caused same issue at high load. Usually in damp conditions. Obviously completely different engine and situation you're having but eh.

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Its not the dreaded tuning box for sure!!

[@ccfcmichael01]

Had a problem with my fiesta (not the van) start of year, causing powerlose and no idle and was giving all sorts of error codes they thought it was either turbo or throttle body, turned out to be sensor somewhere

[@jariilvonen904]

Does the 5v sensor voltage drop when fault is on? There have also been fuel rail defects,i mean internal fault that mixes the pressures.

[@darrencoxson3197]

I would say the instrument cluster is at fault and from a different country, or mabe it's been messed with

[@NeilStephensUK]

Those are some very strange clocks. They are not linear, look at the spacing between 10-20-30mph then the jump to 40-50-60+. Its more than just dial stickers, as others have suggested - police issue, calibrated clocks?

[@letsdothis9996]

Mine does similar but it's a 2.5 when I accelerate to hard esr used to come on and similar symptoms

[@daveedwards3531]

Have you tried putting a match to it?

[@DarksideDevelopments]

Next job

[@remusspiridon5463]

@@DarksideDevelopments Hi, remove the alternator plug from regulator ! If Regulator is faulty will overload the system and the tranzistors from ECU will cut off !!! 3 min job worth to try !