7 ABSURD Photography Purchases (Don’t do it!)

[@HenryTurnerphoto]

Hey all. Really appreciate your support. Please be aware of scammers throughout all KZbin comments on my videos (and other creators for that matter). They pose as me and offer ‘free gifts’. I never offer anything for free like this or ask you to contact me. Sorry about this. I wish KZbin could do more as it’s proper hard for me to keep on top of as I work alone. Cheers 🙏🏼

[@keithgrundy9010]

Thanks for the heads up mate, but i already had a good idea of it being scammers.. They are the scum of the Earth

[@coldeb8911]

To be fare, most of us can spot these scammers a mile off now they’ve been around for so long now that we’re all getting to know the platter better than they do, there are still very a few that they manage to net of course so thanks for the heads up.

[@isabelladavis1363]

seems to be a regular thing here lately! Thanks for the warning

[@deebea6364]

Curious if you have had any purchases that have been the opposite - ie. you have bought something expensive that you regretted or that wasn’t worthwhile?

[@pikles2608]

Hi Henry yes I got one on todays video 29/12/22 thanks for the tips Pikles

[@chrisrussell3129]

I disagree about the remote shutter release. I do a lot of seascape photography, and using 2 or 10 second delay is useless if trying to capture particular wave actions, especially if long exposures are involved. The remote release is essential to get the exact moment. I do agree that buying a “remote” release is a waste, because many (most?) cameras these days allow remote control from an app on your phone. I actually have a cheap cable release so I don’t have to mess around setting up Wi-Fi or Bluetooth connections.

[@sebastianberes]

For me, a UV filter is not for protection from impact as I have never dropped my camera. It's to save the front element from cleaning and accidentally scratching it while doing so.

[@timd4524]

It seems like they come in handy when there is just a slight drizzle out and you just want to get the drops off your lense. I've seen several photographers just wipe it before I caught on everyone was using a UV filter.

[@christophergrove4876]

I understand the theory but 1/ you still have to clean the filter and 2/ you can scratch the hell out of your front element and it has NO EFFECT (almost never) on your photo! In fact, I go out of my way to buy scratched, scuffed, used lenses at BARGAIN prices from KEH and Adorama and MPB. I have several DECADES of experience with this but if you don't believe me... ask Tony Northrup kzbin.info/www/bejne/j5S9nHakhdhna9U

[@sebastianberes]

​@@timd4524 I think KZbinrs miss the point of UV/Protector filters and talk about dropping the camera. After I checked the front element replacement price for my Canon lenses, I decided it's better to go with a good-quality filter.

[@bfs5113]

@@sebastianberes Yeah, with UV filters (a necessity due to a lack of good lens coatings) in the past and clear filters (mostly B+W) at present, the front element of the lenses that I bought for over four decades are just like new. IMO, it is the best way to prevent micro-abrasion due to decades of cleaning.

[@sophietucker1255]

I’m not going say I don’t use them but I’ve never really thought that buying a $1500-$3000 lens and then putting a $100 or less piece of glass in front of it made any sense. I do use them but only in places like a sandy environment with lots of wind or at the ocean if there is wind or with sand or sea spray that could harm the front element

[@David-lk8fd]

Expensive outdoor clothing also makes you look cool, which is just as important as taking cool pictures.

[@margaretannhalleck1326]

Respectivefully disagree about remote. The Sony remote can either trigger shutter or change focus. The focus change makes it very easy to focus stack without touching the camera.

[@antoniobastos6335]

Another way to prevent camera motion when pressing the shutter is using the cellphone. WMU is very straightforward.

[@williampetersen2899]

I agree with everyone who's been saying basically "Keep babbling on, Henry!" You're teaching and I love the way you get your points across. I use a wired remote release for focus stacking and close-ups just to make sure the shutter is tripped at the exact right moment. All other times I use a three-second delay. My feeling on UV filters is this: You pay top dollar for a lens that's as sharp as can be. Why put a $50 piece of glass on the front if you're not trying to optimize the image? Plus, there's a lot more that can break on a lens these days other than the front element if you drop it. I have a rider on my home insurance for my camera gear. Never had to use it yet but it gives a boost to the old peace of mind. Keep making these wonderful videos Henry!

[@rbob4931]

You have some good points, like not buying “pre-set”. Having said that, a remote release, wired or wireless, is handy to have, 1. it allows the photographer to time the shutter release time more precisely. With in-camera delay release, like 2 seconds, could feel like eternity if one is shooting something that is stationary. 2. A remote control also allows the photographer to fire a camera (on tripod) that is set up higher than arm reach or any remote camera setup. Remote control is not only for reducing camera vibration.

[@user-ik3bk4fj8w]

2) I wanted to photograph some buildings in NYC, but there was a fence of about 3 feet and it wouldn't let me take a clean shot, (my lens was 82mm, and the holes in the fence were 2 inches). I put my camera on my monopod and raised it as high as it would go, so I could get over the fence, see my target through the Vari-Angle Touch Screen and with my remote shutter release I would focus and shoot.

[@irridiastarfire]

I find the remote shutter absolutely indispensable for bracketed panoramas. Sure lock-up exposure delay exists, but when you're taking 21 shots per pano (6 around + 1 up with 3 brackets) saving 1 or 2 seconds per shot to avoid mirror shock / vibration is super useful. Even more critical for exposure stacked HDRs because slight variations can destroy a photo.

[@timschaeffer8874]

A capable teacher teaches by his words. A competent teacher teaches by example. A compelling teacher teaches by his words, backed by his example. You are a capable, competent, compelling teacher, Mr. Turner!

[@HenryTurnerphoto]

Cheers Tim!!!

[@davelingenfelser1064]

Agreed with all except #7 I do a ton of seascapes so remote shutter is a life safer for me.. when you're standing in the water, waves crashing around you and you need to capture that exact moment and you'r shooting anywhere from 1/4 of a sec to 1 sec Delayed timer is definitely a no go.

[@andydragon69]

I use a wireless remote shutter release for night photography and astrophotography where I need a better intervalometer than the built-in.

[@chrismolson1821]

Mate you are NEVER boring. I always look forward to your next video. Talk away ... Enthusiasm always shines through.

[@davidhatton2321]

Henry, clear filters serve a huge purpose, not for impact so much, but rather to protect your very expensive coatings on your lenses. Much better to clean the filter on a regular basis than your very expensive lens. If you have ever had an expensive pair of sunglasses that you clean on a regular basis, you will notice that every time you clean them, you gradually break down the coatings. Also if one ever had an abrasive bit on land on the filter and you cleaned it without a blower, I think we can all agree that the scratch on the filter would be more accepted than the lens.

[@judeemclaughlin7394]

I do a cost benefit analysis whenever I buy gear - hiking, camping, photography. Filters: I once dropped my camera climbing over a fallen tree. Had a lens hood, lens cap & polarizer on it. All three cracked. My camera broke so I could not mount a lens anymore. My lens survived and I still use it on my Z with the adapter. Presets: I only find them useful when doing a series to maintain the look over the whole thing. I am a firm believer in rent first. If it turns out you don't like/need it, you aren't out the money.

[@andycoleman2708]

The remote shutter is great when you're shooting something that requires timing, like waves crashing or animals moving. You don't have to worry about camera shake or the timer.

[@listerdave1240]

I came here to say just that. Specifically with regards to landscape photography I use it to capture the moment when the shadows of the clouds are in the right place, illuminating what I want illuminated and shading what I want shaded.

[@kwchalky02]

Yes, I was going to say the same, anything that is moving, .... could be waiting for a person or a boat or a bird to be in a certain precise position.

[@jean-pierrepericaud8224]

You are right. Older APN haven't any time lapse function, and require a remote system to trigger it , even with a wire, it doesn't matter. (Nikon D300s with a good MC-36 trigger wired system ). Fortunately, since that time, I purchased another camera... but sometimes use my old MC-36 that does a perfect job.

[@iskandartaib]

In the old days, you'd use a shutter release cable. I suppose IR remotes fulfil the same function today.

[@Sephiroth144]

Also, long exposure/night photography, both to minimize shake and so you don't have to be stand around in that exact spot for so long.

[@peterfagley772]

Henry, don't change a thing! Your presentations are just fine, a nice mix of technical and practical information.

[@LSIproduction]

I find a remote release useful for seascape photography when having to time the shutter with a wave. Otherwise, the self-timer does the job perfectly well.

[@peterschatz6093]

Exactly…and I do somehow remember someone spoke about this in one of his videos 😊. Although it was a wired remote if I recall correctly.

[@edc641]

Exactly my thought. I guess a remote would be useful in any kind of photography if a certain event suddenly happens that your photo could benefit from, e.g. some birds flying into the scene of your epic landscape shot.

[@henrikthomsen5636]

You can use a mobile phone for remote control in some cameras.

[@broomwagon448]

Does no one use a shutter release cable any more???

[@briannicolae]

Great video! The one for me that still makes sense is the remote shutter. I agree with your wireless point. I still use a wired one which was maybe $20 usd on Amazon. It also had a timer and intervelometor function. The main reason for me is the bulb function on the remote because the remote shutter has a lock and a timer.

[@mearlski]

Using ND Grads in a long exposure is important for me. When using a 10 or 15 stop ND, having the grad in place allows greater control of any peaking or burning the sky. Running an exposure for many minutes has often helped by me using ND Grads. For normal single shots I don't really use them and will bracket if the scene needs it. Nothing wrong with buying ND Grads, just make sure you know what you want to do with them.....but that really applies to any kit, whether its lenses, bodies, flashes etc. We need to find our own journey and find our own personal styles to create the photos we want. If you dont know what you want to do you will probably not use the tools correctly.

[@ddmarty]

I agree with every one except the remote release. When I need to take a group shot with me in it, I use my D7200. I don't use the timer or intervelometer because you've always got someone goofing off or not paying attention. With the remote, I can wait until everyone is ready, and then snap the picture. When I want to take a long exposure, I use my D850 with the remote cable. I liked to never have found where it attaches to the camera, but now that I have I use it alot instead of going through the menu and setting the delay, and then going back and taking it off. Just screw it in and I'm done. Excellent video by the way. Confirms what I've believed for years. Especially the UV/Clear filter. I stopped when I realized it was ever so slightly screwing up some of my favorite shots.

[@TheRatlord74]

In terms of remote shutter, if you have a Canon you have the camera app. You can shoot, focus and set shutter speed, aperture and ISO there too. For free.

[@billytetlow]

I use a remote when I take Nightscape photos, I can be lighting the foreground metres away from the camera. That is the only time, otherwise like you I do use shutter delay.

[@kevinharding1181]

Couple of alternative considerations Henry : a) Grad filters are great when there is extreme movement in the composition, bracketing isn't great in those types of situation b) saving weight : switch to magnetics ! I sold off my squares and went with the Kase Wolverine Magnetics after reading numerous positive reviews, I absolutely adore them. And because they are so easy to use I'll pull them out and pop one on far more often than my lazy arse would usually do. The case with 7-8 filters fits in my trouser or jacket pocket and it literally takes me under 10 secs to be ready to shoot. The main reason for the switch was the weight and size saving though. My Benro 5 filter kit weighted 992g (+ case) whereas the Kase Wolverines weighs 265g inc. case. (I've kept all my hiking /camping weights in the Packing Pro app for the past 6-7 yrs so have the exact weights of everything). c) UV filters are contentious and polarising. Suffice to say that for me there are very few situations where I'll use them (hoods are far better protection) that's in sandy/dusty/saltwater environments. d) Absolutely with you on presets - biggest waste of money on the internet ! Every photo is different and will still need adjusting so just create your own and save it for further use. e) My remote, Pluto Trigger, cost me US$125 ! However it's capable of so much more than your standard remote wit settings for Stills,Timelapses, Startrails, HDR, Video, Sound trigger, Laser trigger, Lightning trigger, Proximity. Droplet. Shake. Smile, Motion and simplifies the process for most of them. Not for everyone but works for me ! For simple long exposures I still use the in-camera 5 secs self timer.

[@kevinroberts1888]

Lovely scenery and shots. I agree about the tripod. I often like to hike with just my camera on a sling strap and I've taken some great shots that way, but all the master pieces, I mean absolute best photos in my portfolio were taken using a tripod. One thing I think is a waste of money for landscape photography are battery grips. These are great if you're shooting wildlife or sports with a huge hulking lens, but for landscape they're more hindrance than help.

[@1958zed]

Great tips all around. One thing not on this list that I'm guessing we've all been through is trying to find the right camera bag/backpack for our gear. Ease of access to the body, lenses, and accessories varies significantly, as does comfort when wearing it. I've gone through several as my gear changed over the years, and as my preferences for certain features changed.

[@tonybest9307]

Hi Henry...am 75 disabled..cant walk on uneven ground..so I follow most of your videos to gain knowledge...I spend a lot of time in the Taurus mountains Turkey..on a monster quad bike beautiful part of the world.....gets me to places I can't hike to...and places most people will never see..oh..the uv filter.. I started with a kowa 35mm early 70s..the movie blow up got me going..my local camera club in kings lynn Norfolk.. I was told back then..don't waist your money on them..only thing you need in front of your lens is the subject ...keep going mate..

[@JerryMarshall]

Being out and not taking any photos is better than any day not being out :) I agree with a lot on your list and agree it is wise to purchase as good as you can or save up before you buy, that also helps temper impulse buys (which I have been guilty of on a number of occasions). Keep waffling on Henry! We love it!

[@danielgeiger7739]

For LF film photography, ND-grads are still essential. I agree on *wireless* remote shooting, but I constantly use a *wire* cable trigger. Same benefits of not touching camera, but you can capture the image at the very moment you want, and don't. have to guess what will happen in two seconds. For dSLR, use mirror-lock up or live view before pressing remote shutter. I use front filters on WA lenses (e.g. Zeiss 21) as the lens hood will not protect the large front element, while on others it is impossible (e.g., Canon TSE 17). Otherwise, completely agree on lens hood, but rather for photography reasons (reflection, micro contrast) with protection being an exaptation. I am always amazed at photographers not using a hood at all times. Pretty much a tripod junkie here (RRS), preaching to choir.

[@alistairwalker3055]

Hi Henry, I see you now have 64k subscribers so you are clearly doing something right. I’m sure it is hard coming up with something every week, but there is no substitute for integrity and saying it how it is (for you at least). It has got you this far! I suspect many of us are on a similar journey with our photography so your ability to relate and vice versa is one of the keys. Cheers

[@legurevich]

Completely disagree about remote shutter release. I use it all the time because I hate 2 second delays and want immediate camera response when I want to press a shutter. Especially when waiting for specific moments like waves 2 second delay will not work well.

[@sharonbarlow2262]

I need my remote shutter to do long exposure as my camera has bulb setting so need to use a, remote shutter for over 30sec exposures

[@RealHouseMouse2]

I agree with your point, I used a 10 second delay to shoot lightning once, and it kept happening during that same delay,… and then 30 seconds of nothing.

[@MrPhilbautista]

@@RealHouseMouse2 If your camera had an intervalometer mode, you could've set it to take a number of photos for a predetermined period of time and had your pick of photos or the option to blend them.

[@RealHouseMouse2]

@@MrPhilbautista No internal intervalometer on the 70d

[@Sephiroth144]

@@MrPhilbautista 1) IF 2) Or you could use a remote shutter release and have more control. 3) There are external IV controls too; could even have both...

[@nevvanclarke9225]

Use mirror up mode too ..helps with shutter shake Also use the screen in live view as that reduces camera shake I like your videos - you’re real and not up yourself

[@NigelBaileyPhotography]

Lots of good advice, but I do use a remote wireless shutter a lot, although it’s probably quite niche - I shoot light-painted astro shots and use the wireless remote to allow me to move around in the field lighting up different parts of the foreground with a torch/light. I could just put the camera on a repeat interval timer, for 10 minutes, but this method with the remote just gives me much more control and results in fewer wasted shots. Also, each frame only has a single discreet light-painted area because i know when each frame is beginning and ending. Otherwise, I pretty much agree with your choices here - especially about good quality clothing!

[@Direkin]

I agree with a lot of this, but I still use UV filters to prevent grit from scratching the lens, or to keep off sea spray. I most cases I would use a timer for landscapes, but I'd use a remote trigger for seascapes or long exposures of traffic (or long exposures of anything that must start at certain conditions which are either random or beyond my control). Also GNDs are good if there's a lot of movement in the scene, such as having trees on the horizon and it's quite a windy day.

[@Arripa-777]

No, you are not talking too much. You are right, we do not need too much gear ! We need ideas ! Thank you for your video 👍

[@peterengler9787]

I have never used or needed to use a lens hood but always use a good quality UV filter, especially after I dropped my 70-300 and destroyed the filter but saved the lens. I use a wired remote for exposures longer than 30 seconds to use the bulb setting or to control precisely when the shutter goes off although the 2 second delay is OK most of the time.

[@DottyFalbo]

👍👍👍and for the record...this video was NOT a total waste....the photo of the boathouse with the rolling hills in the background, was a success. So.....no it was not a total waste and I say....it's good to engage with your audience, and the more you have to say to newbie's, the better. I am quite sure they appreciate the sacrifice, one great shot vs many, you just made, for all of them. Thank you for this video. I appreciated it.

[@robsmith7237]

For post I use Affinity Photo which has presets. In many cases I have found that certain presets (in tone mapping), especially 'Detail' and 'Dramatic', greatly improve the image to the extent that I need do no more editing. In other examples the presets offer a great starting point, but can be improved with further editing. They also offer a quick way to show what results are achieved with different settings, even if you don't use them on actual photos. As regards remote shutter releases, I agree with others that they are useful for capturing specific instances such as waves. Also, as a DSLR user, they are useful when I use the mirror-up option, which is nearly all the time. Mirror-up removes a minor element of camera shake, but you have to click twice, first to move the mirror, second to take the shot. This can be done with the remote release, but not with the timer. This works well with bracketing where, for example, a 5x bracket, with mirror-up, requires 10 clicks.

[@JoeHTX]

Good advice Henry. First thing I did when buying filters was get them in the size for my biggest lens, then bought some step down rings for the smaller lenses. I do use a remote shutter release, but I didn't want to buy a wireless one, too expensive. I got a cheap corded one. What I use it for is taking pictures of fireworks, put camera in bulb mode and hold the button down on the remote when the rocket goes off and release it when the burst starts to fade. Works good for that, and that's about all I use it for. I was in the contract poultry business for 22 years and learned my lesson about buying cheap stuff. Buying cheap stuff almost always costs more in the long run than buying quality items. Always buy the best you can get, even if it costs a little more. Not buying by price, but by value, and the better value items always cost a little more than the cheapest priced item.

[@dalewhite64]

I like that you make sure every body knows up front that this is your opinion. I completely agree that dressing for the environment you'll be working in is not an area to cheap out in! Also, the cheap plastic "kit" tripods are not worth anything. Pay a little more and get a good tripod. I have a Manfrotto Element Traveler, and it works great...for me. Last thing is something I kinda disagree with. UV Filters for lens protection. I buy quality filters to protect the lens from rain, snow, salt, etc. As with any opinion, your mileage may vary! Thanks again for a great video!

[@christophersaul4993]

Great video Henry! I have a good use for my remote trigger... If I want to precisely time a longish exposure shot, for example if trying to photograph a wave as it goes out on a beach. Two second timer doesn't work for that. Plus my camera doesn't have a built in intervalometer. I would however advise using one with a wire; much cheaper.

[@Topsyrm]

I was going to say that (you beat me to it) but you don't need a £30 wireless remote you can get wired remotes that do the same for about £5 on the internet shopping sites.

[@sandyknight3910]

whilst I would agree with you, I had a couple of occasions where I wanted a longer exposure, and the breeze did clank the controller about a bit. Also, I dunked a number of them in rivers by accident, killing them... this promoted me to purchase my remote one, which hasn't been dunked once thankfully!

[@christophersaul4993]

@@sandyknight3910 Will you agree with me if/when you dunk your remote one? I'm pretty sure remote ones are dunkable 🤣🤣

[@sandyknight8429]

@@christophersaul4993 😂😂😂😂 I am too, but so far so good and while it's in my hand I've found myself to be more careful. Of course, I did mindlessly stuff it into a pocket on a cold day, then had a frantic search everywhere thinking I had lost it... So it's not all rainbows and roses!!

[@maryk6407]

I always enjoy you nattering away! You natter about very interesting stuff. In the past, I’ve bought everything on your list except the grad filter! Call me the Wally!

[@GeorgeENorkus]

When it comes right down to it, what is the difference between using some type of filter on site or using a preset in post? I find photography more enjoyable attempting to do everything on site. Sure a filter might cost a bunch of bucks, (quids to the people in England), but it should last a lifetime. I attempt to get it right on site and perfect it in post. When others might want to just get a shot, then use a preset, then perfect that. The difference is up to you.

[@jeffshoket5155]

Old Russian proverb… “Cheap Pays Twice” ;) The sheep poking its head out of the ferns is GREAT! I just purchased a new Manfrotto Tripod on Amazon to replace the cheap light one I had been using for years that no longer works correctly, just needed to bite the bullet and just do it! Also people need to read the manual that was provided with the camera to have more knowledge of how it really works (Learn the Bells & Whistles). Your doing a GREAT SERVICE Sir. Your not just talking to the glass on your camera. Your passion comes through and I like it a lot. Cheers mate - 🍻

[@gerarbara]

Remote shutter release: One use would be photographing waves when you need to time the shot. Or many cameras have a remote app on your phone.

[@neilballantyne1220]

Shooting waves is a good use of a wireless shutter release. Set up the camera on the tripod with the right settings, then you can watch the sea taking shots on the moment. Timing waves with a 2s timer is tricky. Top video pal, all the best. 👍🏻

[@trevorsneath4665]

Everything you said makes sense and also: Presets are just a weird idea. If your a photographer then the post-processing is part of the art. Even old school film photographers play around with the neg in the darkroom as they make a print. It isn't just a matter of take photo, print neg as is.

[@toddwhitmire9057]

Just to let you know Henry, your videos are being watched religiously by me. I think I speak for a ton of your follows as well. You are doing a great job. Keep being you, and the rest of us will live curiously thru your lens. Todd Whitmire

[@huwalban]

I think to label an ND grad as an "Absurd" or "Daft" purchase is a little strong. I know your caveat is that is it personal choice, and you are right it is. However, as a photographer I want to improve my craft with a camera, not as an expert in software, so for me a grad is absolutely essential. Also, some camera systems are not great at recovering highlights so ETTR is not such a great approach and a grad is crucial in order to control that end of the exposure. My advise to beginners is to just buy one grad - a 6 stop soft ND - and learn to use it before going any further. On a side note MPB usually have used grad filters saving a lot of moolah in the process 🙂 Stay safe and well sir

[@HenryTurnerphoto]

Very fair point Huw 👍🏼

[@captiveimage]

Was thinking the same thing. Yup, alternative options are available, but capture in the camera is the way forward for me too.

[@britishrose9417]

Remote Shutter - Most, if not all camera manufacturers now have a phone app that you can trigger the shutter. Many of these also have live view, setting aperture etc. as well as moving the focus point. Makes much more sense as most of us have smart phones!

[@HenryTurnerphoto]

Good point actually!!

[@davidpearson3304]

Disagree. My remote shutter doesn’t need any batteries or apps and had never failed me in over 10 years. Plus some of us leave the phone in the car and go out taking images to get away from the phone

[@britishrose9417]

@@davidpearson3304 If I left my phone in the car it wouldn't be there when I came back :)

[@klausmoritzpeitzsch690]

4:07 "post processing" only applies and works for digital images. A typical B&W film has a dynamic range of more or less 5 fstops inbetween black and white. ND grads are a must. And being legacy and coming from film photography I try to get my image done in camera as much as I can.

[@jean-charles9931]

Hi Henry, I would agree to all what you said. Two additional comments : on DSLR, remote triggers are useful as you can lift up mirror and avoid vibrations (of course it is not relevant with your Z7). I own a cable model from Pixel, 10 euros! You did not speak about polarizers: beginners must be cautious, as the effect must be uneven on skies with ultra-wide lenses. And beware of color cast too: Nisi True Colors model is much better that Pro Landscape one.

[@TheAegisClaw]

All good points which I agree with. About the remote shutters, most manufacturers have apps that will do that for free from your phone anyway, and you can change other settings via that rather than just a shutter button.

[@devroombagchus7460]

Much of what you said might be true for you. Gradual ND saved many images for me in high contrast environment, because of the limited dynamic range with digital and slide film. Anything blown out can not be recovered in post. Blown out means that there is no information. UV filters can be great for quickly wiping away drops or mist. Many photographers are not lovers of using a computer to get the picture right.

[@dougsholly9323]

For purchase number one, graduated filters, I made that purchase when I first started. When I was much younger, I used to ride a sport bike (Ninja 600), and I had a friend, who was a photographer, offered to take some shots of me on my bike. On several of the shots he used a graduated red filter to create a much redder sky than we actually had that evening. I really loved that effect and when I got started, I wanted to be able to duplicate that effect. It wasn't until after I started playing that I came to the same realization that Mr. Turner did in that the effect is easily obtained through post processing. However, another thing that I didn't consider when I wanted to duplicate that effect was that he was using real film. My 'photoshoot' was actually well before DSLRs even existed, so without some extraordinary 'post processing', he was forced to do the effect with a filter. It really never occurred to me that there may be a modern alternative, so I literally ordered a filter set with my kit purchase. As for the UV filter item, I used one for a long time for the exact reason you mentioned. But one day I removed it and realized that unless you spend the money for a really nice one, they can actually degrade your photos a touch. I came to the same conclusion as Mr. Turner did and realized that my lens hood did offer just about the same level of protection. For the sixth purchase, the remotes, I have never really needed one for landscape photography, but I also like to dabble in astrophotography, and for that environment, a remote is invaluable in my opinion. My first camera was a Canon xsi, and for that camera I bought a corded remote. I have since sold that kit and now I have a 90D. The fantastic thing about the 90D is that it is bluetooth capable, so my phone can become the best remote you'll ever use with your camera, as you can preview the shot, and even change settings. And, when taking photos like Milky Way shots where you'll be stacking 30+ images, having a remote is almost a must. Excellent video. Your list was spot on!

[@robertparsons558]

Instances when I would use a remote release "cable" or 'phone app. When things are moving in a scene and you need to take the photo at exactly the correct time so you cannot use a self timer. Examples would be crashing waves, birds flying in a scene or trees/grass/leaves moving in the wind and you have to wait for a lull.

[@geovani9620]

I mostly put on UV filter while I store my camera or travel with camera. For protection . When I take photos, I take it off so I get better quality

[@metalmick99]

Another great clip, Henry. And don't be critical of yourself and what you have to say: it is *always* valuable. There's never been a clip where I thought "too much." It's also wonderful to hear the word "daft" - it takes me back to my childhood in Manchester. If I had to distill-down your message it would be to two things: quality doesn't cost - it pays", and "think twice, buy once." I prefer a wired release purely because my X-S10 has a slightly arcane menu system for toggling the 2-second delay on and off. Plus I keep forgetting to do so. 🙄

[@DanDaD3viLvS]

Take heart from the fact you give us a great deal of pleasure and inspiration. Talking about your thoughts is the best form of self help. Keep up the great work.

[@DavidCox-jm2yl]

Hi Henry, I'm originally from England but now live in Australia. Wonderful to watch you adventure and photograph the countryside of my youth. Keep it up!

[@saintjug7]

I have started using uv filters mainly as protection from dust on the front element. I have a lens that just seems to attract dust like a magnet I use a very soft brush to remove dust but because the front element is very deep in from the lip of the lens it seems hard to get rid of the dust. Fitting a uv filter has solved the problem without any loss of image quality that I can see. Also I prefer to use a wireless remote, when I use a two second timer by pressing the shutter button on a sturdy tripod there still seems to be some movement and I don't want to take the risk that any vibration is still present. With the wireless I know there is no vibration because I haven't touched the camera. So that's my reasoning behind my use. Each to their own though would be really dull if we all did exactly the same. 🙂

[@Jimages_uk]

I can relate to tripods being something to be very fussy about, although I sort of got it right with my second one, a Manfrotto 155, which replaced a cheep Vanguard tripod that had a fitted plastic head, and wobbled. The problem with the Manfrotto, was it was just too heavy, and although it was sturdy, it got left behind all the time. I still have it, and use it at home. I next purchased a fairly cheep Chinese CF tripod, and to be fair, it has served me well, it certainly isn't for a heavy setup, but it is compact, and I use it when travelling. But my main tripod today, is nearly the same as yours, I have the iFootage TC7 Gazelle FastBowl Tripod, and it is fantastic, certainly good value for money, and I see no reason ever to replace it.

[@rrijnders]

8:00 UV filters (high quality) protect your lenses from blowing sand and salt water when you are shooting beach or deserts. It is also much easier to wipe water drops off of a flat UV filter than it is to wipe water/rain from your lens element and possibly scratch your lens coatings.

[@bryanlong4920]

Great video as always Henry! I have always looked at the presets for sale that pop up on FB or Insta. I can't see myself ever buying them as that is then someone else's style on your photo. Rather learn to do the editing yourself, develop your own style. By all means make your own presets with your style. But don't buy other peoples style.

[@olegvelichko1659]

Watched all the way through. Good stuff. As a beginner with GAS - definitely useful advice. Thanks for the great content!

[@kurtsteiner8384]

Filters are a very valuable instrument in photography. Not everyone has digital cameras and computors. I still use film I agree with you sentiments on clothing, get the best you can afford or yous what you have untill you know what you want or need.

[@RussWeymouthPhotography]

I bought a cheap wired remote release which I use on windy days, which I can use to trigger the shutter in between the gusts of wind. I also sometimes use it with the RF 100-500mm lens when using a tripod - that lens has some weight and I find the 2 second delay is just to short (3 to 5 second delay would be ideal).

[@willdunn3264]

Great video Henry ! The main reason I use my remote wireless shutter is if i'm putting myself in the composition. Some of the wireless shutters have several hundred ft range and can certainly be handy for that. Otherwise yeah, not much use for them when you can simply set a 2 sec shutter delay if you're worried about shaking the camera. I picked mine up for only $30 CDN (a cheapie off Amazon which works great) which is likely around 15-20 quid. Just thought as well once in a while I do a family portrait of my family with myself included and the wireless shutter is amazing for that since I'm not having to run back and forth from the camera and hope I make it in time lol !

[@jimboreid1]

I sent a Canon 70-200 f4 lens to MPB and they said it was worth £250. Once I had sent it on they re-evaluated it and gave me £350. I also bought a 20mm prime for a great price and use it all the time. They are superb

[@HenryTurnerphoto]

Result!!

[@InfectedChris]

The UV filter is more for my shooting environment and I want to avoid a buildup of micro scratches which will hurt my images. Lots of small dust can wear down even our modern lenses.

[@AlltagsHobbyist]

I just using a polarization filter or ND filter. But lightroom never worked for me, just using photoshop and the camera raw module. Just feel more welcome there. :)

[@LeeIveson]

UV filters come in real handy when I'm out shooting Motocross, Enduro & Trials just for the simple reason they protect the front element from all the roost (mud & stones) sprayed up from the wheels of the bikes. That's literally the only reason I have a few of them. Lovely images again mate.

[@lyndapassey2752]

Firstly, I loved the image at the start of the video. Superb light and colour. I have UV filters to protect my lenses from scratching. I’ve not used any other filters as yet. I have a tripod but rarely use it. It’s fairly sturdy but not too heavy as I can’t manage too much weight. I wonder if people use presets to come up with a style? Good advice to buy the best you can afford. It saves money in the long run. Thank you Henry.

[@trevorpayne2749]

Remotes needed for "bulb' exposures and UV filters for cutting through UV haze - just two reasons these might be advisable but totally agree with your others.

[@marlenehazlehurst8666]

I listened the whole way through. So many of us waste money...it has to be said. I lived your image of the boathouse

[@vantagepointphotography]

Awesome video Henry. This is my very first comment on any of your videos. I personally believe everyone purchase the "toys" they like based on their preference, comfort zone and photography style. I am a HUGE fan of remove shutter. I have used the delay setting on my camera only to find out I am not in control of when the camera will take the image. Sun goes behind the clouds, wind blows, seagull flies in front of my composition and my camera is still counting one more second before the images is produced. Not me, I am a control freak. I have to be in charge of when that shutter is going off. I wait for the wind, the sun or the seagull to make the move and I hit that shutter at the exact moment I want without touching the camera. That is just me, anyone using 2 or 3 seconds delay and is happy doing so is perfectly ok and will makes no difference.

[@robertdavis1255]

Thanks Henry for sharing your thoughts and comments....I agree with your reasoning however when I started photography as a hobby I did rely on the salesperson at my local camera shop to guide me as to what I needed with the camera & lens...also I did not have a computer so there was no post processing for me.... Looking back there is gear that I didn't need or use so yes I should have spent the money on better quality glass....we all learn by our mistakes.... cheers from Australia 😀

[@chingymofo1]

I use presets, MY presets. They are a starting point and sometimes by the end of an edit the preset I started with seems non existent, using presets for me gives a sense of direction if I'm really lost and sometimes either with a preset applied or straight from scratch I end up with another preset that's better. I don't think I'll ever buy a preset pack even if I like them, plus my own presets represents my own style. Oh and with filter sizes, I totally have bought an ND and a Polarizer for all my lenses, daft indeed 😂😂

[@stephengreenberg3997]

I agree with Sebastian about UV filters. They’re not for impact protection; they’re for spray and sand and such on wet windy days, and so forth. Of course you need to buy good ones, and replace them from time to time.

[@fretless05]

Great video. I hadn't thought of some of this gear as photo gear (like clothes) but that's a great point! A couple of thoughts: Some people using the graduated filters likely learned from old film photographers or from their books; when using film, post-processing and stacking is far more complicated. Second, I don't use UV filters for a couple reasons- I've seen videos where they've tested them and shown that they don't give much protection and more importantly, it's putting cheap glass in front of very expensive glass! If you drop a lens from high enough to damage the front element, you'll likely mess up the internals gearing as well (making it an expensive baby rattle). With respect to step up or down rings, stepping up can give vignette and stepping down might make it impossible to use your hood, which you discussed earlier. One thing about the tripod- often the tripod and head are separate purchases and a cheap head on a quality tripod or vice versa are both garbage. The only good reason I see to buy a shutter release is for shooting in "bulb" mode where your shutter speeds are well below the longest you can set in the camera. One though about the location and not purchases is that it looked form the video like you have a number of times where you might have gotten an interesting composition with the cows. Having them in a shot or two would have been great for giving a viewer a sense of scale.

[@paulpringle8263]

Hi Henry. Regarding shutter button if needed I use the remote photography Nikon snapbridge on my phone. Work's well simple to use thanks for sharing

[@markbonham]

Too many years ago I was given the advice, “any damn fool can be uncomfortable”, you can easily warm up but once damp, that’s it. Likewise, I was always told to have a waterproofed backpack, thus protecting your gear and have a decent jacket to wear plus good boots. I was told Filters can cost an arm and a leg, be careful what you wish and use step up/down. Great stuff as always and yes VERO is great. 👏👍

[@alasdairmackenzie905]

UV filters are a complete waste of money. For a start and if you have a half decent lens, their optical quality will generally be far short of that of your lens resulting in a less than optimum image quality. Secondly, if one gets shattered trying to protect your lens then it is very likely that a) its ring will get bent and make it impossible to get the filter unscrewed and b) the broken filter glass will scratch your lens. Far best to use your lens hood - it's free, it's simple and easy remove and replace if it gets broken.

[@RIH_Photography]

Hi Henry another great waffling vlog Please dont change I recently started to buy Some 10stopND for my most used lenses when I realised like you said get step down rings !!! Also if you spend a lot of money on a lens with very good glass …don’t put a cheap UV filter on it it’s like getting a new TV and watching it through the window 😀

[@AndyBanner]

You can't ignore the fact that blending exposures in dynamic scenes with movement is very hard and its exactly where you should consider an ND grad rather than an exposure blend. I tend to agree about a remote shutter release. Our Olympus cameras have this anyway via the phone apps (does the Nikon?) but I rarely use it because it's a faff. But I have started using my Pluto Trigger as a remote release for my Olympus as (linking in with your point about exposure blending), the auto HDR function (bracketing) of my Oly does not permit the delay timer to engage which is a curious functionality failure to my mind. There are a number of other things that I find relatively pointless on first glance but the more I think about things and change the way that I work, the more I realise that I am wrong! Don't ditch those ND grads - they have a real purpose.

[@karstennevepetersen]

Another use for a remote shutter release is If You do night photography with lightpainting. Then You usally want to light your subject from the side, and You ofte have to Walk quite a far Way away from the Camera in the dark. Then its really nice to be able to trigger the shutter remotely. However, many modern cameras today can be controlled with a smartphone.

[@nicola6323]

I’ve been using cable remote controls for years but recently started using the two-second timer. Works just as well, and one less item to carry up a mountain!

[@jimcastanzo8736]

Henry, I agree with all your observations. I’ve too often bought cheep and had to buy twice. The only thing I have that I do use are ND filters. I sometimes like to shoot with longer exposures. I know there are ways to shoot long exposure without ND filters, but I prefer the NDs. Love your videos!

[@meryndaly05]

I mainly shoot Seascape and a remote or wired trigger are an absolute must for me, when using the timer you don't have the same control over timing the shot to coincide with the wave. I tend not to spend too much on them as they can get lost or drag in the water when shooting low down.

[@mazzith]

The only reason to use a UV filter is when you’re shooting in a place where you have sand. This can protect your front element from getting sandblasted by wind and the sand.

[@MichaelJones-fv8rp]

Hi Henry, I must say talking to people is the best to gain knowledge, whether it's face to face or to a camera. By the Henry a good shot of the boat house and fell. See you on the next adventure!

[@kerryymm]

I have a wired remote, but I used to use the delay method. Main reason I got a remote is for bulb mode 😊

[@turnipmadras]

Slightly disagree about the gradual ND filter. Yes, you can do the same effect in post processing, but only if the sky has not blown out. Grad ND filters prevent the sky being blown out and so enabling you to bring back more sky detail in post process.

[@Robert-R]

The only problem I have with graduated ND filters are with the screw on versions. These require your composition to have the transition occur halfway into your image. Do not buy them. If you're going to use a grad ND filter the rectangular ones are the only ones worth getting since you can slide them up and down to adjust where the transition begins. But, it's not going to be a cheap set up, or small.

[@russellschundler6559]

Great discussion. I agree with all you have said and gained my point of view after spending for things I did not need. BUT ... a remote IS NEEDED when your camera is on a tripod and timing counts ... for example capturing a wave breaking over a rock. Using a 2 second timer DOES NOT work in this case.

[@davidmcculloch8490]

Things I wouldn't be without: graduated and solid ND filters; UV filter to protect the lens when sand blowing around on a beach; a solid tripod and a manual cable release. All personal preference but considered a sound investment.

[@SteelRiderCarl]

When it comes to the filters, I do like to have the UV filters not as much for the protection from impact, but mostly from having to clean my lens all the time and from rain. Tiffen filters are cheap enough that I can keep one on every lens and they're not disruptive to image quality at all. Totally agree on the stepping rings, though! Good purchase idea though? One extra lenscap in the size of the filter!

[@stew_redman]

So many filters can be replicated in post-processing. It also has the advantage of giving you more options. Once you use a filter on your camera, the image you capture is filtered in that way permanently. Make your own presets - it's easy and you can save them for use on similar pictures. It doesn't take long to build your own library.

[@charlesnewsholme2808]

Enjoy the chat and your thoughts. Plus it is always nice to enjoy the views of a good walk whilst sitting in a comfortable chair enjoying a cuppa ! All the best.

[@lynnrust3945]

Thank goodness for my UV filter today as I was photographing sand dunes in windy conditions with wind gusts strong enough to make it difficult to stand and blowing the sand into my face and camera for several compositions that I wanted to capture. I’m on a road trip, so far covered 8000km, and moving on to new adventures and phots ops tomorrow, so can’t come back on a calm day.

[@thesharpercoder]

Congratualtions on the channel’s growth and success, Henry! I have to disagree with you on #3, Clear filters. Many professional grade lenses are not fully weather-sealed until you add a filter on the front element. Keep in mind, I am only talking about professional grade, weather sealed lenses. Some lenses have air events that exchange air in and out of the barrel as it changes length when you zoom. Adding a filter closes the loop, so that outside air and dust is not sucked into the lens barrel. Also, I do a lot of photography in “dirty air” environments. I want to keep the front element clean. It is cheaper and safer to clean a Clear filter than it is to clean the front element. There is lots of pollen in woods, sea spray near beaches, dust is abundant in the US Southwest, smoke a BBQ festivals, and the list is endless. Filters are not for protection against physical damage. Filters are used to change your shooting conditions to something more favorable. UV filters are totally unnecessary with digital cameras because every digital image sensor assembly includes a UV layer, for which the camera knows how to compensate.