Here'$ Your Change - In the 2020 NEC

[@ScottDLR]

Kids are going to love that external shut off switch.

[@johnnash9072]

So will the cops with no knock warrants.

[@ZacharyBurnsOnline]

Kids - just what I was thinking - stupid! Especially around here in the winter - shut that off and you just killed heat to most gas and electric furnaces - frozen pipes anyone? 🤦‍♂️

[@johnbattista9519]

This is great for breaking into someone’s house... you’ll see more battery back ups in houses.

[@nerdhomestead]

And crooks to kill the security

[@johnnash9072]

@@nerdhomesteadmost security systems have battery backup and use cellular technology. Except mine .... mine uses 20 lbs of food per month and can chase down the fastest runner

[@StormyITO]

This is what you get when the industry gets to write their own code, the manufacturers are on the NFPA boards and they want to sell new expensive parts.

[@notyou6950]

Looks like code writers got sponsors now with obvious financial interests in the new construction business.

[@BB-nn9en]

Their uniforms should be like those of Nascar drivers.

[@malikto1]

That emergency disconnect on the exterior is a nightmare waiting to happen for home owners. Vandals will most certainly be turning off peoples power and really bad actors will do it to draw the homeowner outside where they can be attacked. The typical padlock that may be used is as useless as a TSA lock on your luggage.

[@TomAto-ch4sh]

You realize you can simply pull the meter off the side of the house and accomplish the same shut off?

[@malikto1]

Tearing off a meter is more work for a vandal than flipping a switch.

[@TomAto-ch4sh]

@@malikto1 Semantics really... Either can be done in seconds.

[@Scrollermania1963]

@@TomAto-ch4sh Well if either can be done in seconds, then why waist money putting a switch outside ?

[@jjoejones1]

In the Western states, the Service Disconnect has always been on the exterior of homes. Nothing new for us..

[@libertarian1637]

I’m convinced the same people that update the code sell breakers both GFCI and AFCI. The days of $2 and $3 breakers are gone now everything is $50+. They’re getting carried away because fewer and fewer people die or are even injured due to electrical issues and most of not all aren’t from code compliant electric. This is the reason people don’t get professionals to do the work or permits and inspections because they can do it cheaper. So a 6’x6’ bathroom with a shower can’t get a receptacle despite a receptacle being required by code; makes sense.

[@p6315713]

its been corrupt since 1999 with arc faults, this is a total scam that is making other people rich.

[@rogerf7229]

I'd have thought the old school breakers would trip with an arc? No? Then what good were they? Trip on a momentary heavy startup draw? gee how convenient.

[@KitchenerLeslie2]

@@rogerf7229 afci breakers trip on a loose connection, not just a short or an overload like a regular breaker. There are expensive things going on in a breaker to tell you there is a loose connection somewhere in that circuit. It’s not as simple as a standard breaker.

[@garbo8962]

Have 40 circuif breakers ( 38 are single pole ) plus 6 in a garage subpanel. If they make me install AFCI will install a through to splice wires to only have 7 breakers like it was when house was built 60 years aho.

[@motor2of7]

And the code requires at least one 20 amp dedicated circuit to a bathroom.

[@fldave612]

All joking aside, the NEC was once literally about fire prevention and safety, now with some of the new additions in 2014, 2017, and 2020 I truly believe a lot of what in these codes today are more about raking in windfall profits for the major home builders, construction material suppliers, and pricing out the smaller independent and especially the non-union contractors who will be forced to jack up their rates to almost non-competitive levels against the massive statewide and/or nationwide outfits. Some of these additions are totally logical, the whole house surge suppression, the emergency cut off for the house, and the outlets next to a bathtub. What makes no sense is the need for a GFCI on a range, most ranges are not close enough to water to even warrant that, the same with the clothes dryer on a GFCI, unless they think the moisture from the clothes being dried in it presents a hazard. A GFCI in an attic is kind of silly too, unless of course the code writers are concerned with a major roof leak. The HVAC equipment being on a GFCI is just incredible, no one plugs anything into the that equipment and any exposed components are in grounded enclosure, the only ones who would likely be exposed to energized HVAC equipment is a technician who unless they are idiotic enough to service it in a torrential downpour likely aren't in any danger. I wonder how many HVAC outfits are going to use this to sell homeowners new equipment needlessly and will use service calls for repeated nuisance tripping of the GFCI as a "proof" that the customers HVAC equipment is failing and no longer safe. The grommet or busing in the cabinet hole is another WTF item, like has there been that many documented cases of a dishwasher cord being damaged and causing serious threats to life and property to warrant this change?? What's next? They'll want bushings in every hole bored in a wood stud or joist? I better not say that too loud, it might end up in the 2023 NEC. The emergency cut off for the building makes sense considering the main breaker is typically inside and only means of disconnect from outside would be to pull the meter, unfortunately there is other safety issues that could come from this. If someone planned on committing a home invasion robbery or a burglary, they could easily kill the power to home this way before entering, in the cover of total darkness and most security cameras would stop recording unless it was on a UPS. The code doesn't specify whether or not that box could be locked out, but locking it would defeat the purpose of the cut off in the first place.

[@pfcrow]

I often say that every rule has someone's name on it. The NEC just doesn't print the names of the people who would have been protected had these rules been followed when the work in question was done. The way things are going, pretty soon they'll just require that all breakers in residential buildings provide AFCI and GFCI protection and be done with it. My immediate response to the grommet issue is that since it's electrical code, it's the electrician's responsibility, which means to comply, electricians will put in a separate hole from any plumbing hole so that they have full control of the hole. Is it needed? I suspect there's a list of names of people who would be better off today had this been in place. I also have mixed thoughts on the emergency cut-off for the same reasons. We had one installed as part of our solar/battery system. As a homeowner, I'm wondering if I might be able to put a lock on it, and what the standard is such that emergency responders would be expected to be prepared to cut it off. (I'm actually more worried about kids playing around with it than criminals, but it's the same issue.) (I'm just a DIY guy, but I like to know that anything I do on my home is up to code.)

[@joemedley195]

I’m not an electrician, but I wondered about some of these things too. I’ve observed in corporate life that there are certain personality types that want to make rules for flukes. I’m not saying you’re wrong. I’m just suggesting another possibility.

[@joemedley195]

This is like a lot of insurance rules. We never get to see the numbers they’re basing these decisions on, so we never get to judge these things for ourselves.

[@ericthered9655]

And nobody has thought of a damn fixture hanging strap so it's not hanging by the ground wile wiring it.

[@tomsims7868]

a simple safety capacitor or MOV to protect older eletronic controls would be a source of tripping and no need to replace these units in fact replacing the safety caps and MOVs could extend the life span of this equipment 20-30 years but these parts will send a small amount of power ground and will trip a GFI outlet on a regular basis and the equipment is working just fine just self protection features doing their job nothing that poses a danger to people just a nuance trip and not using the ground wire for this will cause actual equipment failure and maybe a fire as well

[@andydelle4509]

Simple switch (emergency switch)? No, it's a type 3 rain tight 200amp or more double pole switch. That ain't gonna be cheap! Now what would be neat is if they would have that double throw so you can have a generator inlet on the bottom poles. That would be a better solution to the main breaker interlocks the NEC allows, but most power utilities want banned. They should also make a meter base as part of the enclosure since you will need that too. But then hey, how long does it take to cut the security band and pull the meter? Can't the fire department just do that?

[@thomasmarable6818]

They do make a meterbase switch combo used them for years.

[@spockmcoyissmart961]

Look at the new Leviton breakers, with a smart phone ap. Have you ever had so many problems with circuits, that you needed to monitor them constantly? Have a glass door to watch your breakers? Be able to turn them on/off remotely? Be alerted when it trips? I can count on 1 hand the number of times a breaker has tripped in my house since the mid 1980's. One time a receptacle failed out in the yard, in a garden, the rest was running too many heaters trying to thaw pipes. The electrical industry is creating products, then legislating against problems that rarely occur.

[@deedeekay1642]

This was a well done presentation highlighting everything I was looking for in a clear & precise way that is easy to remember! Thank you!

[@2009mechanic]

I put a complete new service in my house like 4 years ago. It was NOT required to install the exterior principal mains disconnect breaker at that time but did it anyway just for the reasons you specified. The inspector liked it. Also say something about all the changes that are required to the existing panel(s) in the dwelling pertaining to how you how NEED to change how your grounds and neutrals have to be changed when installing a new whole house disconnect right after the meter box. Every panel after that outside main disconnect is now technically a sub panel. A grounding bar(s) need to be installed in the current panel(s) to seperate the ground wires from the neutral bar. AND REMOVE THE GREEN BONDING SCREW FROM THE NEUTRAL BAR.

[@2009mechanic]

Per the can light blue box locations ; install all of them next to walls. Problem solved.

[@adamplummer2190]

@@2009mechanic I was thinking that or mounted on the walls.

[@BarryLawrensen]

These changes provide safety for people who do stupid things, but at a cost of thousands of dollars extra in the construction of a new house. A single 220V GFCI costs over $160!

[@HomesBuiltRight]

Amen brother!

[@MarcoPolo-jg1em]

The new changes provide financial safety for big manufacturers wallets that's all.

[@agentk4332]

take the "safety labels off and let Darwin sort it out. Cull the heard!

[@HenryLoenwind]

You're getting fleeced by those manufacturers. A 240V GFCI costs about 20 EUR in Europe, 30 if it's a GFCI+breaker combo. Less when you buy in bulk.

[@binaryglitch64]

All hail natural selection! Let the idiots fry. Oh the authors don't share my sentiment? Well that's a shame. Now I understand why the gene pool is the way it is.

[@1800imawake]

We need to make a NPC National Politician Code, and revise it every 3 years because these crooks are getting way out of hand.

[@rogerf7229]

Politicians and diapers need to be Changed for the same reason. They both get dirty.

[@garbo8962]

Have a politican in Philly that gets paid $60,000 a year from electricians union. Wish I had 2 part time jobs like bobby pretty boy hennon that require littke work and together pay over 200 grand a year.

[@mlee81]

The problem is most see it and even complain about it but nothing is ever done. They keep people occupied on social justice issues fighting ourselves while they continue to sell this nation right under everyone's noses to special interests. Everyone knows it and nothing is done.

[@sylkelster]

2020 NEC: Rev up your wallets.

[@fldave612]

12:51 Wife goes to plug her hair dryer in and and gets all bitchy with husband over having to crawl under the counter top to plug it in, husband tells her "Sorry baby, it's not my fault, it's the 2020 NEC." as he hands her the code book. Husband wakes up in the ER with a concussion brought on by the code book being thrown back at him. :D :D :D

[@dw3403]

I now have one in wa State. Not required here but put one in because of power surges that took out a surround sound. Energy star air cleaner. Many light bulbs. A plug in surge protector that saved the computer and wi fi An X box and also took out a relay on the furnace leaving is without heat for a week last fall. We thought the problem came from our recalled zinco box. Replaced that but the problems still happened with surges and brown outs. Finally called the city. One guy who tried to blame it on our electrition, listened to the symptoms with eyes glazed over. Another man unbeknownst to me was listening and went and asked our neighbor if he too was having problems. he did. So they went up in the lift and looked in the transformer which had a loose wire bouncing around. At this point if we had had that protector before, it would have cost us less then what it cost to fix and replace the damage done.

[@Goodferu223]

These changes seem right on track with the economic inflation. Electrical is already expensive, let's see how we can make it more expensive.

[@Reathety]

Some of these GFCI requirements are going to add hundreds of dollars to installations. Not to mention the headaches of tripped GFCI breakers.

[@jfbeam]

Indeed. The 6ft as-the-cord-flies rule means A LOT of otherwise normal outlets will need to be GFCI. For example, the outlets on the wall in front of my kitchen... if I plug a cord in one of those outlets (intended for lamps, phones, etc.), it _could_ reach the kitchen sink. ('tho it would take an intentional act.) Example #2, an outlet in a hallway outside a bathroom may now need to be GFCI because it's within 6-cord-ft of a sink. Example #3, my friend with an EV has a 50A receptacle within 6-cord-feet of the sink in his garage. (because it's 2ft from the charge port on the car.) Example #4, the outlet for my washing machine is within 6ft of the utility room sink -- it'd be a banjo string across a walkway. (it's also 3" above the water lines)

[@mactec54]

The only new added is the 240v circuits most of the others have been in place for some time for 120v circuits

[@chaser9363]

@@jfbeam we just use dual function AFCI/GFCI breakers anyway. it makes these codes a no brainer and kinda moot

[@jfbeam]

@@chaser9363 Not moot at all... a standard breaker is 5$. GCFI/AFCI/combined is 10x that. So, in a typical home, you've gone from $100 to $1000. The new 240v complex breakers will add even more to that. And the idiotic surge protector is adding even more to that. I'd like to see the actual proof this crap is saving lives and property. (I'm not saying GFCI isn't a good idea around water. Putting one on every outlet in the house is an unnecessary waste of time and money. Ask yourself how many people are shocked (injured / killed) in their bedroom every year? How many of those involve a ground fault that a GFCI could've stopped? That's a pretty damned small number. Go look, how many grounded devices are in your bedroom? In mine, it's ZERO; everything is two prong, and every outlet is behind furniture -- because morons decide their placement -- where I couldn't reach a grounded screw at gun point.)

[@CompGuy66]

At this point they should just require a GFCI main breaker be installed to protect all the branch circuits in the distribution panel. Might even end up being cheaper than installing a gfci for almost every branch circuit. This has been the standard in many parts of europe for a while now.

[@remushaynes2693]

greetings sir; i came upon the video much later but still enjoyed it. i am retired, was an electrician therefore i am an electrician and found this expose' very informative. also i have a hearing disability but your voice was very easy to understand and i did not have to turn up the volume. thank you very much and have a great day..................g

[@HomesBuiltRight]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@kylewoodward7078]

Meter mains are the best. Seems like at this point just put arc/gfi combo breakers on everything? I see alot of service calls coming.

[@timdouglass4934]

Some A hole inspectors are going to love enforcing these changes. Grommet thru cabinetry holes, please who thinks up this stuff ?

[@teardowndan5364]

If they decided to put it in the code, it must be because there has been instances of fires or other hazard from cords rubbing on the hole, though the reason for the cord wearing out in the first place may actually be the water hose moving as the pressure and flow through it change with washer solenoid cycles. In that case, it would have been more appropriate to require a separate hole for electrical and water/sewage connections.

[@p6315713]

grommet producers

[@Tro1086]

And as the electrician we will have to be the ones to go back and install these after the inspection fails and the plumber has already ran the plumbing and cord thru the hole.

[@KitchenerLeslie2]

Horror movie antagonists gonna love the off switch to the whole house outside.

[@mikeclarke952]

I was thinking exactly that too, it becomes the opposite of more safe, that part does not make any sense at all. Hopefully most local codes will say nuts to that and ignore it.

[@I_Do_Not_Know_What_I_am_Doing]

I immediately thought of this. There should be a bypass for low ampage utilities ( i.e. security cameras, communications)

[@Flash1857]

A 100 Ah AGM will power a 12v LED in each room and EXIT signs for a few hours.

[@joejoe6949]

We already do this in Miami for years. It’s fine no one fuck with your meter main combo.

[@dane5167]

can we put a lock on the disconnect?

[@michaelkowell7106]

Affordable housing?

[@lordgarth1]

So which lobbyist got the surge protector in? They only last 3-5 years and I guarantee no one is going to replace it.

[@p6315713]

this shit started in 1999 with arc faults, its been corrupt ever since

[@rgarito]

Must've been someone who is an executive at Florida Power and Light.... They've been trying to sell residents SUBSCRIPTION whole house surge protectors for a few years now... Something like $10 a month to "rent" one. Lol

[@wim0104]

those little surge "protectors" are total BS

[@spockmcoyissmart961]

Before a new panel is installed in a home, the electrician will already have $2000 in parts before he does any wiring between the panel/surge protection/arc/gfci breakers.

[@Tro1086]

YEP! The panel with breakers went from costing 2-300 bucks before AFCIs, to 1500 bucks after the AFCI codes, and now 2000 bucks with all the 240v GFI breakers you now have to buy!!!

[@dhelton40]

The NEC has been taken over by manufactures for sure. If people were being injured by these issues it would be understandable. These could changes are for the benefit of device manufactures. For example stoves and dryers have grounded metal cabinets, leakage current will either trip the breaker or in the case of resistive heating elements flow to ground. The NEC was a great and respected institution that has now run amuck.

[@tomsims7868]

next they will require whole house arc and GFI protection and then will require a union eletriction to plug and unplug your hair drier with 3 phase being an option because everybody should have a 12 burner stove and 5 tea kettels in their kitchen really who who needs 5-6 outlets in a bedroom I have one outlet I kinda wish I had another outlet for my air conditioner and another near the head of my bed for my house phone and cell charger but I really do not need one at every 6 feet of wall this just adds more splice points and more failure points and more hazard

[@davidmiller8967]

You don't use a GFCI in every outlet, just the first outlet in the circuit. Of course you would have to know how everything is wired and that would be difficult in an existing installation. I was referring to a new installation. AFCIs seem to trip if the vacuum cleaner gets unplugged while it's running. They're protection is so narrow they don't seem worth the effort. After watching the video on the new 2020 codes, I think the code writers are running out of things to regulate.

[@GilmerJohn]

For my own home, I prefer separate GFCIs. Problem is that in the real world you get trips and when you have a bunch of outlets with all kinds of electronic junk, it can take some time to find the bad actor if the gadget doesn't reset. Of course, that means we have a lot of GFCI outlets. That means I've had occasional failures.

[@fedfreds832]

@@GilmerJohn to save time and money just put 1 gfi in start of the line then you know where to go to reset it. I prefer the breakers being protected when it comes down to it saves money.

[@ericstandefer9138]

Of course the AFCI will trip if you unplug it while the vacuum is running. Unplugging it under a load will create an arc in the receptacle; hence arc interrupter.

[@fedfreds832]

@@ericstandefer9138 yeah hence why arc faults are the biggest mistake in electrical. 250 unit apartment complex and the microwave can’t hold at the start because the arc fault breaker. Ended up replacing the breakers to gfi’s only after. Arc faults are a joke

[@fedfreds832]

@@ericstandefer9138 250 breakers replaced because are arc fault breakers. If any electrical ul listed company is gonna produce a breaker it better hold a dedicated home run to a microwave but no. Arc fault breakers don’t like that now

[@blueoval250]

GFI for AC and whole home surge protector lol yeah I’m not doing that unless the homeowner wants it. They should stick with safety otherwise people are just going to ignore everything they say. The NEC is becoming a salesman for manufacturers.

[@rogerf7229]

The whole house surge protector is a pretty good idea. There's a super expensive (110voltageRegulator) one that maintains an exact "sweet spot" voltage. b/c You PAY for the power surges on your Power Bill !

[@overamped23042]

@@rogerf7229 Surge protectors only protect from over voltage. They don't do anything for inrush current when an appliance turns on.

[@whiggins101]

I've been designing in the electrical world since 1985. You are so right, many of these things are not about safety but selling new products. The manufacturers are on all the committees.

[@stevecook7551]

Changes to electrical codes for residential are driven by the equipment manufacturers . They develop a product then create the market by lobbying for rule changes . A cash cow.

[@christopheroxendine4287]

How does the No Plug zone work with Powered toilets/ Bidets?

[@binaryglitch64]

Use a cord long enough to reach a legal outlet or put your toilet more than 6' from your tub and sink (cuz who has a bathroom that big)... Use a bidet that doesn't require power (those do exist, they use existing water pressure and heat)...??

[@whelancommunications]

No plugging into her receptical while she is within 6' of the bidet, according to Nanny State Electrical Code section 245.50, and furthermore it says the bidet must be used both prior and after intercourse, within ten minutes of climax. That is a limited 20 minute window to complete the action from start to finish there there shall be fines for noncompliance. The 6' rule means that if you own a small bathroom, that zone of the house is off limits for fun, but if you are rich with a large bathroom you can maintain the 6' distance from the bidet.

[@mouldyboats]

I used to always half jokingly say NEC/NFPA was only about protecting insurance companies profits. After AFCI's saved only four lives in testing... the cash registers started ringing again. Now this ridiculous hubris. The home/ business owner pays and pays while the Wall Street earnings reports get better and better. Insurance bills ever go down folks?? Hmmmm.

[@rudyardgomeas6042]

Why such crazy rules for electrical ceiling boxes, when led lghts are getting lighter and smaller.

[@wim0104]

because ceiling fans

[@finarollerz]

Just stub out and put snap in LED’s 😊

[@Tro1086]

Because SOMEBODY.... MIGHT.... hang a ceiling fan on it some day. Kinda like how someday an airplane MIGHT fall into your house. The code is pretty much made to cover any "what if" situation you can ever think of, and do it in a very generic one rule fits all kinda way.

[@jimpintchuk8058]

Can light solve the problem. I’m doing my whole house with them. Since they aren’t fan compatible and the aren’t electrical boxes.

[@geniferteal4178]

Regarding the whole house surge protector. If I'm doing major Renovations which involve electrical modifications what is the likelihood I'll have to retrofit one? It probably varies by area but does it seem like something they're going to push for?

[@sparkyjerred419]

Luckily many local jurisdictions around here are still on the 2011 NEC.

[@ronaldoleksy8264]

Great info. I understand but I don't get the grommet in the side of a wood cabinet. Wood stud walls have wire running through holes in wood. When it comes to cabinets. I drill a separate hole for wire. An a separate for plumbing

[@HomesBuiltRight]

I agree. That is a bizarre requirement.

[@6789uiop]

Maybe the code making panel thought the cord material was softer than romex sheath?

[@davidkarpen5686]

New materials used today are synthetic, stone, metal and who knows what next year will bring. All pass throughs except common lumber have always required a bushing. This doesn’t offend me so much. It will also control the size of the hole the amateurs will drill for a # 14 wire to a dishwasher! If you buy 3/4 inch grommets or bushings. You will have to drill the common 7/8 hole as it should be! To constrain movement. Not the monster amateur cavernous 2” disasters all the dopes drill under everyone’s sink

[@ronaldoleksy8264]

@@davidkarpen5686 fyi some dishwashers have a plug on the end( Bosch).need a larger hole than stated. The cord is very short so it must be on the dishwasher before installing. My experience just saying

[@davidkarpen5686]

@@ronaldoleksy8264 them the power outlet needs to be behind the the dishwasher in the same cabinet. 2. Buy a new approved 12 or 10 gauge appliance cord that is longer. Crimp ends on it if need be. Or hardwire the appliance to a dedicated circuit breaker with a GFCI breaker or a combination GFCI/ AFCI.

[@stevepailet8258]

Watching and laughing can you mention a few places arc fault and GFCI are not needed? Everything else that is plugged in need protection so might as well bite the bullet and buy enough arc protection to fill up all but two slots

[@garbo8962]

Years ago before fan boxes existed had a good gadget crazy customer who always went to extremes. For a huge chandelier that he was going to purchase down the road I bent 2 pieces of 4" wide 1/4' thick steel plate and mounted them back to back and installed a deep 2 1/8" octagon box with a 3/8" eye bolt drilled & tapped thru 2 steel plates along with a nylock nut. Drilled 4 1/4" by 20 tapped holes to mount box with grade 5 hex headed bolts and nylock nuts. Inspector seemed to like it. It supported my 250" fat ass with no problems.

[@Ariccio123]

I dunno, sounds really good to me 🤣😜

[@Reliable4360]

Why wouldn't you include an article for each change you mention so it can be referenced?

[@vicktorpatriot1430]

GFCI protection on a dryer and ac/heat pump unit has to be something a manufacturer and insurance company got together and lobbied for. I want to know how many electrocutions have occurred from either and of those how many were fatalities.

[@Just_A_Toaster852]

A lot of ac/heat pumps will not work on GFIs, mostly the new inverter based models. They just have slightly too much leakage from the electronics.

[@vicktorpatriot1430]

@@Just_A_Toaster852 I know many old electric motors will trip arc fault breakers It just seems that there is more " we have a very expensive device no one is buying, so how about making it mandatory in your code". Than any real problems being solved.

[@sylkelster]

@@Just_A_Toaster852 Don't worry. If not already, soon there will be a double pole 'inverter rated' GFI on the market with increased leakage allowance for $100 more.

[@fishtailfred8686]

@@sylkelster There already are such devices..not sure about the inverter rating. The GFCI typically used in homes in the US are considered Class A devices and have a trip rating of 5 mA. If you need one for 240 V loads such as a swimming pool there are Class B devices with a 20ma trip current rating. In Europe they have been using similar devices for "equipment" with a 30 ma trip rating for at least 20 years.

[@johnhaller5851]

I think you would have to talk to the HVAC techs. They are frequently standing in a pool of water after a rain checking power going to the AC. Given that service outlets aren't that old, they sometimes have to steal power from the unit to power their refrigerant capture equipment, but the GFCI requirement won't help them with that pre-existing condition. But, one wonders if they will need to put GFCI breakers in replacement disconnect boxes. At my house, they put breakers in the disconnect because the original circuit was 30A, but the new AC was only rated for a 25A circuit, and the inspector checked that (one of the few things he checked). They were not GFCI breakers at the time. While I would have thought that changing the breaker in the panel would have been simpler, I suppose that is beyond the scope of the limited electrical work they can do, and would have required an electrician and a compatible breaker on their truck.

[@garbo8962]

Can see the outdoor disconnect adding $1500 for a replacement service in the thousands of row homes near me that are only 16' wide. The garage & door take up at least 13.5' and 95% of the homes have a central AC unit inches off wall. Will have to pay AC tech to pump down refrigerant and move unit at least 3' plus depth of outdoor service disconnect then lengthen the refrigetant, 240 volt power and control wires. Most driveways are in a 8 to 17 degree sloop so a frame might have to be installed to get AC unit level. O yea kids will be shutting disconnects off.

[@JesusTorres-yq4zq]

Thanks for the video! If I'm honest I rather watch a video instead of reading it and your pictures and explanations make it easy for me to understand. Keep up the good work sir!

[@8894larry]

DORA in Colorado has issued a amendment to not require GFCI protection of outdoor ac units / heat pumps because of a tripping issue on the manufacturers wiring in the units internally.

[@electricaf365]

I predict that will happen more places

[@6789uiop]

4:10 "Including through a doorway" < That'll be removed. I've always interpreted the distance rules as a 6' cord on a typical radio or whatever.

[@mariomartinez4143]

can we just add a single surge suppressor combination GFCI to do the entire house? I know I know , bad idea.. but wouldn't that be nice?

[@pfcrow]

Or just put all circuits requiring GFCI on a sub-panel, and then use a GFCI breaker for that sub-panel. It might save a little money, but any trips are going to be really annoying.

[@tomsims7868]

@@pfcrow so lets say in a thunder storm any surge protectors will trip the entire marry ann you really should consider just daisy chaining or combining GFCI so that you have half the GFCI and so washer and drier will be each on their own then your kitchen and bathroom will have their own dedicated GFCI my home is wired in the worst way possible my living room is on the same circuit as both the the washer and drier its all done in 10 AWG so I have a 30 amp fuse on it and it works but when doing laundry I get a strobbing effect but even still I can safely run an air conditioner and my computer while doing laundry the voltage drop brings me down 104-109 its just within in spec for most equipment so I plan to break up this circuit

[@davep8366]

Great video... But would like to see references for each one...

[@tomstdenis]

The trip current on the 220V side must be really high I imagine otherwise you'll get a lot of nuisance trips (source: I had my furnace on a backup panel fed by a 5mA GCFI and it tripped all the time). At which point ... is the GFCI really protecting against bodily harm?

[@mrfrenzy.]

In Europe we use 30mA for everything and it rarely tripps, yes it does protect against body harm since it disconnects so quickly.

[@Tro1086]

@@mrfrenzy. But isnt 30mA enough to kill a person?

[@mrfrenzy.]

@@Tro1086 it depends on the person but most people will survive 30mA for 200ms and the GFCI trips after about 20ms. There are 10mA GFCI availible for special use cases.

[@spockmcoyissmart961]

I can see more jobs being done for cash and NO inspection.

[@s.n.9485]

Not from professionals.

[@spockmcoyissmart961]

@@s.n.9485 Bid jobs will remain expensive. Now more expensive. For residential jobs, people will be more moved by price than inspection. "is it safe?'', "look, it has been done this way for many, many years....", ''ok'' If an inspection can be avoided, it will be. People are always concerned an inspection will open and expensive can of worms for them. In towns where electrical work must be done by a licensed electrician is one thing. Other towns where you don't need to be licensed, people will go with price.

[@MarkLawry]

The definition of Integrity is doing the right thing even when no one is looking. Should I trust someone to work for me who has already stated that they have no integrity by working without a permit?

[@spockmcoyissmart961]

@@MarkLawry I can do a job with a permit, I can do the same quality of a job with no permit. Most people don't like inspectors coming into their homes because they think, ''his job is to find things that are wrong, and that will cost me money.'' People want what they want as cheap as possible, with no problems.

[@andydelle4509]

@@s.n.9485 Perhaps not, but when the homeowner get's a "professional" bid following the code to the letter plus the inconvenience of an inspection, how will that fare against the bid from unlicensed Acme Handyman Services?

[@Pants4096]

What is this 110V and 220V business? Isn't the standard voltage 120V and 240V? Or is Texas different than the rest of the U.S.?

[@robstephens]

It's used interchangeably.

[@electricaf365]

🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@StormyITO]

What if your tub needs an outlet?

[@rublar75]

billytheweasel is correct, "door, doorway," was removed. Other than that, good presentation.

[@TexasStatesman]

Is the emergency disconnect considered the first means of disconnect and require all grounding and neutrals downstream to be separated?

[@mactec54]

Any second sub panel / box away from the main service panel /box has always had a Neutral Ground isolation , all Ground and Neutral wires Bond together at the Main service panel / box only

[@davidkarpen5686]

No. The disconnect is simply a pass thru for the neutral and no power is distributed parallel from it. If you separated the neutrals from the grounds in the disconnect box you would effectively have no neutral-ground connection anywhere! It does not make your main panel a sub Panel! A disconnect is not a service panel. It is simply a means of disconnect. A main breaker of sorts before the main breaker. I would think this new disconnect would have to always be outside adjacent to the meter. It is a good idea as long as you can prevent criminals and angry neighbors from using it as an advantage. It creates a lot of personal security issues! Loss of Internet, cameras, emergency medical equipment. This will cost innocent lives! Even a imbecile service technician can now disconnect without first contacting the homeowner to see if any life saving equipment is in use! I guess I would lock it and the fire department just break the lock if need be. Also a battery backup camera is now needed as surveillance to deter shitheads.

[@mactec54]

@@davidkarpen5686 Yes this would be easier for the criminals, or service people, but you can just open the door of the main service panel and you can disconnect anyway, so not much different from now, just a little easier

[@davidkarpen5686]

mactec54 where I live their are no outdoor service panels. Nobody in New York does that. I don't even think it is legal here. So now we will have an outside disconnect. That is the problem I foresee. This is new for us.

[@mactec54]

@@davidkarpen5686 Are yes different states had / have different requirement as to the main service, this is most likely why the code has changed for that disconnect to be install outside, it would be a safety problem if a fireman could not find the disconnect in a burning building, I have 3 on one house 600A supply and 2 on another that is 400A supply all the disconnects are outside and have been that way for more than 10 years have never had anyone mess with them

[@hermanprocell7989]

Mercy That’s gonna add a lot to the cost of a new home Over kill

[@ip5232]

Great explanation on things! Caught my total attention

[@normferguson2769]

Funny that there is a lot of talk about blue junction boxes for ceiling lights. In the past year we have not installed any blue boxes for ceiling lights. We have only installed LED puck lights that the 14/2 Lumex connects to in a small box within the puck. Even exterior under-eve lights have been LED pucks. I think NEC is addressing issues for designs that within a year or two nobody will be using.

[@thomasdupre7882]

Thanks for your time. Very Educational.

[@SixTwoHemi]

Outside Disconnects should only be in commercial applications.

[@mrfrenzy.]

In most of Europe we've had the whole house on GFI's for years, it works great. Several circuit breakers share one GFI to save cost.

[@wim0104]

those devices are not quite the same. I wish we had the Euro devices here. multifunction breakers are expensives.

[@Tro1086]

so every time there is a nuisance trip on one outlet/circuit, multiple circuits are shut off? That sounds great!

[@okaro6595]

@@Tro1086 Those are not so common in Europe because they are rated for 30 mA.

[@Kubotajoesfarm]

Really good video!! Very clear and concise. Keep them coming!

[@H1Hummer]

Perfect now when I go to break into homes I can kill the power and wait around for the alarm battery backup to die. 👍👍😁

[@GilmerJohn]

Yep! That's my thought.

[@blueoval250]

You can pull a meter just as easy. I’ve installed hundreds of disconnects outside, I just use them by default now but only if they have extra spaces. Those spaces make life easy for powering outbuildings etc

[@t0cableguy]

You know they have provisions for locks? you think the power company's locking tab would stop someone from pulling a meter? Do you know how much trouble this saves in the future if you decide to install an transfer switch or have to modify or replace your panel in the future? I'll be happy if every house in america has an external disconnect, it takes the power company out of the equation when doing major changes to feeders to your main panel.

[@alphadogdiesel]

Great - the outdoor power switch is turned off and now the back up generator starts up....

[@guillermoramos5047]

thanks for all the information , less information a got to ask the inspector .

[@andydelle4509]

Living in Los Angeles (earthquakes) I really don't have a problem with requiring fan rated boxes for any ceiling box, barring the game room example which should be covered by a variance on a case by case basis. The good quality fan rated boxes are about $15. That's not that much for even a whole house. Now the GFCI and AFCI madness, that's another issue!

[@random_rainwoah3771]

Can't the fireman pull the outdoor meter socket to shutdown power?

[@davidkarpen5686]

Yes. That is what is currently done on dwellings without a disconnect. However, although it obviously works. The goal is to completely remove all possibilities of arc flash and electrocution. Pulling a meter leaves the fireman doing it open to both especially if it is raining. It also leaves a big open hole with live power from the transformer at eye level on the side of the house, with no means to make safe until a utility worker disconnects from the pole. The open meter pan is certain death for any and all who might come in contact with it! At night, low vision, smoke, fire, lots of water in a high stress environment people make mistakes. Even ones that seem obvious. An emergency worker could easily double check for a meter that has already been removed and put their hands in the empty live unlimited power line feed to the meter and die. Then others trying to save him will also die.

[@jamm6676]

That was informative. Thank you, sir.

[@timkirkpatrick9155]

you left out GFCI on back of congruent wall to sink. The back side of the wall that carries the plumbing. Wet/damp includes mud rooms and garages. All piercings require fire stops.

[@hangngoaigiare]

please reference the code number when you show these would help

[@HomesBuiltRight]

I’m just a year into doing this. I include references on my newer videos. I appreciate the feedback.

[@Cabmaker]

The grommet on the hole seems ridiculous

[@robertlitman2661]

In a wooden cabinet it is ridiculous. However, many cabinets are metal, and there, it makes perfect sense.

[@anthonyhitchings1051]

more like the grommet is a truly asinine idea

[@rudyardgomeas6042]

In "no plug" zone, what about plugs for jacuzzi tubs, which need a warmer

[@HomesBuiltRight]

Those are usually enclosed underneath the tub near the motor. They are not within the zone described.

[@fcircuit]

No mention about service entrances

[@SaiaArt]

As per the ceiling fan boxes, I can already see a few reasons for the change. Not all fans rotate parallel to the floor like a frisbee. I’m seeing the type that rotate like a car tire more & more. Some of those blades are wide and short, long long and narrow. Also, the example given of a game room with 10 recessed “puck lights.” If they are spaced from the wall enough to accommodate fans, let's say 2 rows of 5 lights.... You (presumably original owner) may not want any fans. But 16 years later you sell it to someone who decides they want to put up fans on those center boxes, having 2 fans & 8 lights. The NEC already has several requirements on the premise of potential future property ownership exchanges. For example, it is required to have a raceway installed in a basement even if there are no plans to use it, it needs to be there. All unused romex cables must be removed or “dead-headed” inside a covered box that is labelled (i.e. old AC circ), to eliminate confusion 20 years later. Similarly, exposed gas lines such as to a water heater must be painted yellow to clearly identify them, and all pvc or abs drain lines need to be protected from nails/screws/drills before drywall is installed. All of the codes are very “forward-thinking.”

[@adamplummer2190]

I don't think it's so much about having it for convenience for future owners. It's more about they fear some idiot would say "I want a fan" and put one in themselves without checking.

[@electricaf365]

Lol

[@tvogs3434]

Was there a new code about outlets below grade requiring to be gfci protected as well as afci protected? As an example a finished basement. All outlets would need to be gf/af?

[@wcvp]

I think that was required before the 2020 NEC

[@electricaf365]

@@wcvp nope

[@electricaf365]

Yep

[@IRo415]

Thanks very much.

[@ssl3546]

The emergency disconnect is a horrible idea. Pranksters will go to people's houses who are out of town and flip the switch for shits and giggles, ruining all the food in the fridges. Burglars will flip the switch and shut off most of the security system (yes you could have battery backup but unlikely the whole system including internet modem will be on battery backup).

[@stevebabiak6997]

That was my thought too. I know a landlord who admitted to putting insulators behind a tenant’s power meter as a “constructive eviction” tactic, so flipping a disconnect might become common. And then someone will get the bright idea that there can be a lock placed to prevent unwanted flipping of the disconnect, with a key that emergency responders will have. Well, there is at least one KZbin video out there that shows how there are many similar things in place (think elevators for example) where the key can get into the hands of the unscrupulous. So this isn’t much more reassuring. The emergency responders do need some way to de-energize for their safety in an emergency; we just need to come up with better ideas. In any case, many AC condensers already have disconnects that can be tampered with if the homeowner does not have a lock on the disconnect box.

[@rleeAZ]

Fire crews are trained to pull the meter to disconnect. I suppose a switch would allow the untrained to cut the power before the FD arrives.

[@stevebabiak6997]

@@rleeAZ - Thanks for confirming that the disconnect is not necessary for the first responders.

[@diy-aholic6501]

You read my mind about the crooks and pranksters!

[@HomesBuiltRight]

You can place a lock on these devices.

[@bumblebee6480]

Thank you for your presentation. Not sure if anyone mentioned yet, Tesla specifically stated that for their electrical "fast" charger (220V) NOT to be installed to a GFCI circuit breaker. Wonder how this is going to meet code?

[@BloominOnion1]

110.3(B)

[@burgessbrooks412]

Do a commercial or industrial update

[@HomesBuiltRight]

I’m a home builder. I don’t deal with those.

[@jamespayne8781]

Solutions looking for problems. Millstones looking for necks to adorn.

[@user-dr2pg8fk2i]

Honestly....the expense of the GFCI/AFCI breakers is starting to make more and more sense.

[@anotherreview5586]

You should add the code articles.

[@HomesBuiltRight]

This was one of my earlier videos. In the class it was taken from we used a handout with all the references. I add them to new videos. Thanks for the feedback.

[@dhelton40]

I do not understand why equipment that has a dedicated grounding conductor needs GFI protection. Any leaking current would safely go to ground! Dead shorts would trip the breaker. I cannot imagine any condition in which a properly grounded appliance could be dangerous. You would think from the NEC point of view that people were being electrocuted by their major appliances everyday! At some point this has to stop. I think that it may well reach the point that states may start to delete certain code requirements that are clearly designed to sell products.

[@timflory4767]

Yes Thats what i been saying

[@clifforddavis722]

In CT... If the panel is more 10ft from the meter socket then you have to install a meter with main breaker... Last time I bought one it was almost $600 vs less than $200 for a standard meter socket. Now every service is gonna need these? Christ... Before long it'll be $10k for a service.

[@JGKopp]

so, is the GFCI protected circuit for an air conditioner applicable when existing equipment is replaced? AHJ around here interpret code updates that way. This could mean a new electrical panel that has the ability to accept this kind of GFCI breaker. I don't see this as being possible in many older homes.

[@juicebox22a]

The alternative is a GFCI breaker in the disconnect at the outdoor AC unit. $$$$

[@juicebox22a]

Also, no to your first question. Replacing the whip to the ac unit does not require the circuit to be upgraded.

[@buixote]

Any word on Battery-to-Home? PG&E Clearly cares more about executive salaries and shareholder profits than it does about providing safe/reliable power. I understand that the tech is already in use in Japan, and that Australia is doing a pilot project.

[@skynetlabs]

I'm amazed the electrician who labeled those outlets could spell! Oh, wait a minute...nvrmnd.

[@timothydixon2545]

Ok when you are running romex in a cabinet the NEC has said forever that romex Per installation shall be protected so if you sleeve the wire in liquid tight that covers you on worrying about protecting wire through your cabinets the 3 foot rule and 8 foot rule by your bathtub with the picture that you showed in the bathroom requires you to have a receptacle within 3 foot of each one of the sinks so you put it outlet smack dab in the middle between both sinks and recovered the last one was the fan rated boxes they make fiberglass boxes that are 70 pound fan rated and it said that your box Hass to be rated for 70 pounds not a 70 pound not a 70lb a 70 pound fan would have down forces that would be taken into consideration that’s why on the metal box it said it was able to hold 90 pounds with a 70 pound fan you just have to have a 70 pound rated box which you can get a fiberglass box that does it it’s just a flimsy bracket boxes you can’t use anymore

[@dane5167]

the sink next to the bathtub will never be an issue, for you can put a gfi 3 ft from outside basin of sink. even if the sink is overlapping the bathtub we can meet the requirements of putting a gfi next to the sink

[@dane5167]

in regards to everything else, the 2023 nec will fix the 2020 new codes which they didn't think of previously

[@stevebabiak6997]

With regard to ceiling boxes supporting 50 pounds - that only happens when an appropriate box is used AND fastened in a proper manner.

[@guydevers9269]

That will work well in closets for ceiling fans

[@guydevers9269]

Have had to put them in walk in closets

[@davidkarpen5686]

A 50 or 70lb rated fan box comes with pre installed approved fasteners. It is not left up to the homeowner or amateur to use 1 1/4 “ sheet rock screws so when the fan is improperly installed and shakes like a hooker in church. The screw heads pop off and now the entire contraption is hanging by the live wires! The fasteners are the rating!

[@stevebabiak6997]

@@davidkarpen5686 - how about pancake style fan boxes that fasten directly to a joist?

[@davidkarpen5686]

@@stevebabiak6997 I dont think those pancake boxes are legal for fans. I never use them! First there is no space inside the box ( cubic inch rating) for wire calculations. Second you would usually need an extension on them to attach to. I do not think the fan upper cone is a legal enclosure for all the wire but IDK. “Smart box “ makes a super heavy duty plastic joist attachment box that sits of partially to one side of a joist while attached directly to the joist with 3 pre installed fasteners at about a 45° angle. Once installed it has no movement. Almost impossible to break and can hold easily 70 lbs. and it has plenty of c.i. For wires. That is the only thing I use for joists fan or fixture.

[@tomb1637]

Your video says range and ovens have to be GFCI. I think that is incorrect. quote me the code. 210.8(6) says where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces. The range or cooktop receptacle does not serve the countertop surfaces.

[@HomesBuiltRight]

Good point Tom. In one of the “illustrated” code books they put out they did have those mentioned in the same breath as AC units and dryers. Since I made that video I’ve read more and will say this: Ignore the countertop rules for ranges and ovens. The sink rule will apply IF the range, oven, or cooktop are within 6’ of the edge of the sink - then GFCI protection will be required for that appliance. (Thanks for writing)

[@valkyriefrost5301]

Never *underestimate* the stupidity of people, water and electricity.

[@rudyardgomeas6042]

Aren't the GFCI & AFCI designed to protect against electrical surge? If so, why do we need whole house surge protectors.

[@HomesBuiltRight]

No. GFCI’s protect people. AFCI’s protect property. They are not a surge protector.

[@koarivera9151]

That island formula is ridiculous lol

[@darrinstewart9240]

Why can't these people leave things alone?

[@grantwhebell7730]

I have done extensive research on surge protectors. A proper surge protector will not allow a bypass when the MOV blows. Surge protectors only work if they are as close as possible to the load. A whole house surge protector speaking to engineers and designers will not work properly .

[@tomsims7868]

if lighting strikes upstream either at the service or near by pole then a hole house surge suppresses will help but its useless for induced currents locally into your wiring and just having EMT conduit will help nearly as much as a surge suppressor with this issue but EMT will not help with a direct strike other then preventing a fire

[@antilogism]

It's obviously targeted toward external surges. They work fine, if properly engineered, but can't replace the hundreds of MOV's through out all of the products in you house. It simply makes it a bit easier for the little ones. Blowing MOVs is a significant risk to be considered. I've seen many and they do a lot of damage when they blow. A simple swell that would ordinarily go unnoticed will go to a full arc-flash with an MOV. I saw a photo of one that basted the box open and showered the area with flaming debris. Tossing random MOV's into situations without thought is very a risky proposition so I'm hoping the NFPA worked with subject-matter experts.

[@rogerf7229]

It's still prevalent from the 70's, external panels. Crazy.

[@brucerauch8024]

When calculating the number of receptacle outlets, is a duplex receptacle counted as 2?

[@HomesBuiltRight]

No. A receptacle outlet is the box itself - not the receptacles within it.

[@marshallwhitson7848]

If you have a bathroom receptacle in other location than what is required by NEC can it be on the same circuit as the other receptacles in the bathroom?

[@noereyes2051]

I don't understand why rhe the panel it's outside in Texas?

[@dapperdave2090]

GFCI the whole circuit panel 🤣

[@jeffm2787]

Not sure what a Dispose - all is 😁 Perhaps that's a Texas thing. Load center install prices are going to go way up.

[@HomesBuiltRight]

Could be Jeff. Thanks. Maybe I have shortened that thing in the bottom of the kitchen sink to one simple word. Sorry for any confusion.

[@valkyriefrost5301]

AFCI requirements already did that, so these additions are pretty minor when compared.

[@adamr1637]

Wait, does a duplex receptacle count as 2 outlets?

[@HomesBuiltRight]

No

[@wim0104]

an "outlet" is a concept; it's a combination of: - interupting the branch circuit wires - an outlet box (to mount everything else on/in, and contain sparks) - most of the time a device (switch, light, duplex receptacle,..) - a cover

[@wim0104]

in other words; receptacles, and sockets, should never be called an outlet.

[@youtuber-zt1fq]

Yes it does count as two receptacles, hence the duplex.. on an individual branch circuit for a specific appliance ( dishwasher, microwave, etc) it needs to be a single receptacle rated at 80 percent of the load

[@langlongboards5615]

Just saying if the fire fighters was smart he would know you can disconnect power from the meter it’s all about money

[@Scrollermania1963]

Year's ago, not too far from our house...the fire dept. Didn't mess around with the meter on the house. When this house was on fire...they had the power immediately killed to that sector where the line's run through that neighborhood. So this whole need for a switch next to the electrical meter is stupid.... The fire dept. Had to get passed the main trunk line coming down to the house from the pole. So they could bust a hole in the back roof to use their water to kill the fire....so a switch ? Really ?

[@electricaf365]

Unless it’s locked

[@kybenton6099]

Thanks for the video it was very helpful. The one question I have is on the ceiling boxes that just be rated for 50 pounds can we use a labeling machine to label them? Thanks

[@HomesBuiltRight]

I guess manufacturers will have to play catch up with the code.

[@sailingeden9866]

I would think any sort of label would work. The code does not specify who labels or how. Does not say labled by the manufacturer. Permanent lable, sticker, marker, engraver.

[@robertlitman2661]

The code doesn't specify the text of the label either. By my interpretation, a marking on the box that states the manufacturer's model should be sufficient to verify that the box meets the requirements.

[@kybenton6099]

@@robertlitman2661 yeah I thought so but I’ve had some that didn’t have any labeling at all but I identified them by looks. Thanks

[@davidkarpen5686]

If you label it without a UL certification or an engineering degree with a registered manufacturing facility that makes them. When you get caught or if someone dies, your new home will be jail! And all your money and old home awarded to the survivors! BUY LEGAL SUPPLIES FROM REPUTABLE SUPPLY HOUSES. I don’t consider Home Depot, Lowe’s or Amazon a good source unless you really know your code!

[@warrenosborne6044]

I have always been of the opinion that electrical equipment manufacturing companies lobby the NEC for monetary gain. The net result is increased costs for the home owner with little or no gain in safety.