Hes 9600 Electric Door Strike Repair

Here is a link to the solenoid I used to replace the hoop-a-jooped one in this door strike.
www.alliedelec.com/product/jo...

[@randybobandy4775]

This is such a specific issue i cant beleive I found a HELPFUL video about my exact issue. Thanks!!

[@dork3nergy]

I agree. Stupidly specific. Hope your repair goes well ^_^

[@breadlife123]

Very lively, very enthusiastic presentation, with real difficulties, as we always live. A big thank-you. in my bookmarks fav

[@binaryglitch64]

I'm the one you thanked at the end. I appreciate your work ethic, and would have gone just as far to fix it right, so I can relate. If it's worth doing ...

[@dork3nergy]

Hahah...This is an old video, I had to actually go back and see who it was I thanked at the end. Thanks for watching.

[@billanderson8191]

The doorstrike manufacturers league would like to speak with you.

[@LeeWayne3]

I LOVE fixing stuff too. I have to replace this same exact door strike because it’s not worth me explaining to my boss what I need to fix it. 😂

[@peterbevins3511]

I know this is a long shot asking on a 3 year old video, but have you had any experience repairing HES 1500 or 1600 electric door strikes? The company I work for has several we believe is fried (thanks to a cheap external wiring team) and your video is the first time I found anything on how to repair the strikes produced by Assa Abloy. Luckily this video will still come in handy as we also have a 9600 with the same flippy-flap issue you had

[@dork3nergy]

I would bet they are all basically the same on the inside. Just crack em open and have a go, chances are you'll be able to fix them all!

[@rodolfosantana9015]

Same fried and sloppy soldering

[@IvyKogan]

Wow thank you for this video.

[@dork3nergy]

Thanks for watching it!

[@richaulet5000]

Awesome video, definitely bookmarked just in case! Now i'm trying to find the little Y shaped arm that the solenoid moves onto that actually does the locking and unlocking. One side of mine snapped off at the thin part of the metal and can't seem to find a replacement part anywhere.

[@dork3nergy]

I can't remember that part but you might just try and fabricate something yourself to match. I doubt they sell that particular part. Why bother when they can sell you a whole new lock?

[@kongthai..]

I think a little DIY is fun. I am also trying to see what's wrong with my stricker lock at my shophouse. Just for fun

[@nochannelnochannel8814]

This lock looks exactly like mine, same solenoids inside. would you happen to know why the bottom solenoid is so hot right now that the cover is like a cup of coffee hot? the latch mechanism, or wings will not secure and the door is stuck as freely opens when pulled on.

[@dork3nergy]

If it's hot like that it likely means your solenoid is shorting out and stuck in the open position. Probably a similar problem to the one described in this video. Replace one or both of the solenoids and you should be back in business.

[@alestursic961]

Solenoids have to perfectly match each other. They have to be paired with each other from a butch of 100 solenoids. It is extremely hard to make 2 solenoids actuators equal. They deviate in a range of +/-10% or worse. If the same magnet wire is used. Old or new will never match either. That is also the reason why these parts are so expensive.

[@miguelbernabe753]

Do you sell the modified solenoids?? I need some .

[@sellmycar44]

I have a latch that buzzes would a ac to dc rectifier make it quite and just click?

[@dork3nergy]

That's an excellent question. I don't think there is really an difference between an AC and DC solenoid so powering it with DC should be no problem and yes, that should stop the buzzing.

[@sellmycar44]

@@dork3nergy thank you .happy holidays

[@PatrickSmith87]

I thought you'd go with a gob of Hot glue. Bigger the gob better the job?

[@PatrickSmith87]

In regards to the shim

[@williambabik3255]

What do you do when it double click an d The door is not opening.

[@dork3nergy]

Take it apart and see where things are going wrong. They are very simple devices.

[@alestursic961]

You should replace both Solenoid actuators as they are wired parallel to each other. "Current split". As they are DC solenoids the Copper resistants should not deviate much in value. Current x Coil turns2 is proportional to Solenoid pulling strength. I would make new solenoids for wiring in series rated 2 times 6Vdc for 12Vdc application instead.

[@dork3nergy]

That sounds reasonable Ales. I must have lucked out because the strike has been going strong for a year and a half with no problems.

[@alestursic961]

I don't know why they do not make Strike rated to 48Vdc. Currents would be much lower and solenoids would have more turns instead. It is all about producing a force and It is easier to achieve It with a number of turns as the effect is squared. Lower current less heat. It is also possible to achieve less heat with the smart electronic driver that would reduce the current in an "ON" end holding position of the Strike. It can be done much better by changing the dimensions of the solenoid actuator. Rather shorter and wider, I mean plenty of possibilities and shapes.

[@dork3nergy]

Could just come down to either 1.) a bad design that works (so why fuck with it) or 2.) the way it's designed now is just cheaper. The damn things are way too expensive for what they are though so I'm going with #1 here.

[@alestursic961]

Cheaper is better indeed. They already had fullish bits in stock and they made Strike around It. It's Simmilar like at the aviation business. They had a supercharged engine and they made Aeroplane hull around It. lol

[@kongthai..]

Shocking to see there is no electric, electronic component shop in your city. We have a street full in my hometown i think.

[@dork3nergy]

I'm jealous. It sucks to have to wait days or weeks for parts.

[@kongthai..]

@@dork3nergy exactly

[@boolve]

Can you update on this thing, if it's still workiy? ;)

[@dork3nergy]

How do you mean "update"?

[@boolve]

@@dork3nergy sorry if this is not clear what I'm asking, I'm saying if it's still works in present time?

[@dork3nergy]

Yes, it is still working with no signs of stopping.

[@michaelpluchinsky9980]

Ok I understand how it all works w/t electro- mag. I only see the gate opening in one direction. So I want to see the door auto close and relatch itself back into the gate. Mine only goes in one way (open)?????

[@dork3nergy]

Not sure what you mean there Michael. The gate should be locked when the solenoids are not energized. Energizing them allows the gate to swing free when the door is opened. When the door closes on the now locked gate, latch bolt slides over the gate into the cavity, just like a normal door.

[@chrisdecandia]

Your pissing match comment was totally unnecessary!

[@matthewcanavan8275]

Im happy about the so called "pissing match" with china

[@lisacluff1]

Agree is necessary.

[@FirstLast-wr9mh]

It would have worked fine with just one tab latching. You're too thorough.

[@dork3nergy]

I'll take that as a compliment ;)

[@FirstLast-wr9mh]

@@dork3nergy rightly so.