High Anxiety 5.7 - Wichita Mountains, OK

[@robertpearson9137]

I wasn't aware of this route when I lived there but I left in the 80's so it probably wasn't put up yet. I looked it up and saw that one of my old college friends, Eric Forney, did the FA. Cool looking route!

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Eric is a legend! He still is climbing hard here in Oklahoma. That’s awesome! What all did you climb here in the 80s?

[@bonefishboards]

I climbed for one weekend at Mt Baldy (?) just north of Altus OK (?) in 1989. I was totally stoked on the climbing. Loved the route "Last of the Good Guys" or something like that. Had a little scorpion crawl out of a tri-cam placement. So I kicked it down on my belayer which made things even more spicy.

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Wow how cool! Climbing there back then makes you a legend in my book. Last of the good guys is a great route! I belayed a climber who had a scorpion crawl out on him a few weeks ago in Tulsa 🤣

[@simongeering]

Very reminiscent of North Wales slate routes with the defined edges. Looks like a fun line

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

That’s awesome! It’s a blast and a rare find for the area!

[@JoeKunsch]

did this climb on saturday! loved the open exposed feeling you get there. wish I would have lead it. I setup an anchor and rapped in because who wants to hike when you can rappel? I also love the gear beta. the guide to the Wichita's is something I feel didnt give the best help for everything. I might come back for this one since the approach wasnt terrible like the Elk Slabs for great expectaions.

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

It’s a rad climb with great rock! Glad you liked the gear beta. I think I probably used too many pieces down low but oh well! Hopefully you’re able to go back and send it on lead!

[@JoeKunsch]

@@grahmtheoverstoker I mean, the more you place, the lighter you are. lol. That is how I see it. When I was top roping it, I could see all the placements, but where you placed that number 4, I was a little concerned about the over camming on it. If I was really worried, I would back it up with a nut in the crack below. All the moves are pretty easy though. I should have lead it... next time!

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Next time for sure! And I love that philosophy. I think if you had a newer #4 it would fit there perfectly!

[@JoeKunsch]

@@grahmtheoverstoker I do have a newer #4. I am new to trad and loving it so far! One of these times we will have to meet up there to climb!

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Mt Scott is the best place for beginner trad in my opinion. It’s so much fun. I’d be happy to meet up. I’m out somewhere just about every weekend!

[@hunterknowles42]

This is definitely a sport that has recently peaked my interest. I love the wichita mountains and had no idea there were people around that ascended them the "proper" way. Maybe we'll cross paths at some point in the future! I'd love to talk and discus what gear I could get to start doing this form of climbing as well.

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Hey Hunter! The refuge is an incredible place! It would be great to cross paths and show you the ropes. Likely the easiest way to get started in this sport is to start climbing at your local climbing gym (if you’re lucky enough to have one.) There you can find partners who could mentor you in the technical/safety side of things. Another great place to get information is joining the local Facebook climbing page. “OKC Climb” and “Texas and Oklahoma Climbers” are great groups full of helpful people.

[@hunterknowles42]

@@grahmtheoverstoker thanks for the great advice! I'll definitely join the groups mentioned. I currently reside near the Lawton area, do you know of any decent gyms maybe near that area or should I just make weekend trips to the ones in okc?

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

No problem! If you’re in Lawton there’s also a SE Oklahoma climbing group. One of them may have a home wall you could climb on! Unfortunately right now your closest gym are in OKC.

[@hunterknowles42]

@@grahmtheoverstoker awesome man! I really appreciate all the help and insights, I can't wait to start practicing!

[@kathyls74]

As a new climber, I very much appreciate your videos. Thank you for sharing! We are headed to try this one, are there any other routes you’d recommend that I could build a top rope anchor on?

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

I’m glad you appreciate them! Mr Clean is a great one to do over there! I usually sling the block then back it up.

[@kathyls74]

@@grahmtheoverstoker thanks!

[@jordans92169]

Hey I'm a new Trad climber and I was wondering why you extended your first placement? I understand trying to fight rope drag, but wouldn't you have decked? Not critiquing just learning

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Yep I definitely would’ve decked 🤣 I was just being stupid. Something new I’ve been trying is to climb a standard boulder height before placing any gear. Any low gear really only protects you for one move anyway and wastes a lot of time. Just make sure your first piece is multidirectional to fight any potential zippering!

[@dialallama]

I can think of 2 reasons to extend. 1. To reduce drag 2. To protect you gear. If the position is before or after a ledge it stops the rope dragging on the ledge. If the position is of to one side it reduces zigzag drag. You also have to think about the chance of the rope pulling up on the gear and dislodging it. This is more likely if there is more drag on the quick draw. However cams are less likely to be pulled out in this way. On the first placement the position of the belayer makes a difference to drag on that bit of gear.

[@LouDude502]

Wichita just made my to do list. Thanks for sharing. 🤙🧗

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Great! It’s well worth your time.

[@bethlichty]

Was the anchor made with trad gear or bolts?

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

3 bolts!

[@jesussavesseq]

Is there alot of climbing in witchita mountains ?

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

There’s around 1,000 established rock climbs in the Wichita mountains!

[@ananda_miaoyin]

Bro...that overcammed purple.... Yeah you ran it out sitting on bullshit! Good climb. Looks fun but short. Was the anchor bolted? You did not show it.

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Haha! That’s how it is sometimes. Everything could always be taller… it actually has a three bolt anchor on top of a ledge!

[@ananda_miaoyin]

@@grahmtheoverstoker Sweet. Thanks!

[@AndreasGustav]

Any particular reason you use nylons slings for your alpines?

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Yes! I was broke 🤣

[@preston9339]

Be Careful with that 4 placement, a bit too overcammed. would be safe for a fall typically but falling on it would most definitely get that cam stuck in there pretty good.

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Agreed! Someone told me that slot was perfect for a #4, but when I got up there I was displeased to find out that they meant the new #4! The camming range of the old (no thumb loop) 4s is closer to the new 5s than the new 4s!

[@trevorratchford3768]

lol at that first runner. pretty sure it wasn’t doing you any good fully extended…

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Not gonna lie I almost didn’t post this video because of that placement 🤣 I had just followed my friend two lead this and I was copying his gear beta without thinking

[@Captaraknospider]

I didn't like some of your gear placements. The green and the big over cam and the last one. Why so meny runners. What ever makes you comfortable. Nice video

[@mattking3852]

What I learned... Your pieces are non-binary since you refer to them as he's and she's... And you stopper placements are shit sketchy. 🤣

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Man that blue offset didn’t have a lot of surface area but when I placed it, it made the most satisfying slotting sound I have ever heard in my life!

[@Ericxnugz]

Why not just free solo it