Leap Frog 5.10a Tricams Only - Wichita Mountains, OK

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Cool little historical bit here: Throughout the years the original line for Leap Frog has been blurred by guidebooks, online databases, inviting cracks, and the broadness a toprope set up brings. The first ascent of this line finished direct (and slightly right) over the last tricam placement that you can see in this video, making it a pretty straight up line. The direct finish runs you out over a tricky sequence involving slopers, and maybe a leap? This is where we get the 5.10ish move. It’s quite the exciting finish! A fun fact about this original exit, is that Doug Robinson was not able to do the moves! He was guiding on this day and decided he ought to reimburse his clients. It’s hard to trust smears above a piece and the moves could be slightly height dependent. I went ahead and filmed myself doing the original finish if you’d like to see here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqmllaqKd92ffZo

[@elduderino_dude_hisdudeshi4957]

Come on out to NC and bring all the tricams…you’ll fit right in.

[@marcushill78]

Great vid, I love tricams, especially the pink ones which seem to fit anywhere.

[@owenslubo9243]

Not gonna lie that was pretty dope!

[@NPC-fl3gq]

Pink Evo. Would whip!! Love the Abalaks too - the #2 and 3 are basically (to me) like a pink Tricam +/- They can get seriously welded but dang they can hold. ❤

[@gary-if7bk]

This video is a blessing ty for ur placements

[@ernestovilarrasa6267]

Nice route !

[@jonfrank5113]

In the old days going to the left and following the crack at the top is not Leap Frog. Going right is the Leap Frog finish and it was a mantel with pro at your feet and is 5.9+ or 5.10a. To do Leap Frog just don't use the crack on the left that you finished on. It was the finish that Doug Robinson couldn't do and he wrote me a check for a guide fee. I always felt it was a bit spicy on lead. I would do this right-handed mantle with all your weight on your right hand balancing as you reached up with your left hand, then put your foot on the mantle. A balance move. I hope I am remembering the move right. It has been over 37 years since I did it. I was excited at the Leap Frog title you had but after I went back to Chuck and Tony's guides I see they didn't put in the Leap Frog finish but had it go where you went. I wish I had a place to upload photos. In my guidebook, it is all dashes indicating face. In the other guidebooks they show it following the crack which is incorrect and you are just following what they have in their books. I messaged you on Facebook to show you my old guide which is correct and the other guidebooks that are not showing the face moves to the right. Leap Frog. Hope you can try it and tell me if the moves are correct. I think you mantle on the hold just right of your hand at 7:50 in your video. Cheers

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Thanks for the clarification Jon! I briefly tried the direct face finish on top rope and it was tricky! It was sunny and the rock was warm. I remember holding on to slopers and debating standing up on a polished knob. I think ended up reversing a move and reaching to the crack out left. I’ll lead Leap Frog proper and report back!

[@compellingpeople]

Haven't trusted tricams since one popped off on me on Shake you Groove Thang, but I see, unlike me, you test the upward pull.

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Dang were you okay??

[@compellingpeople]

@@grahmtheoverstoker I just calmy climbed a bit higher and placed a 2.

[@rockclimbinghacks9222]

How does the smallest abalak compare to the black tricam in size? Loved the route and the style. That last placement seemed a little tricky, how would you rate the quality of that placement or the quality of the abalak nut-like placements in general?

[@TheKiltedClimber]

Hey Grahm. Quick question about the Abalaks. Do the wires loosen up and go into the slots easier with time and use? My new set arrived the other day and the wires are making one-handed placements tricky. They're just a little bit springier than the wires on nuts, I think, and the angle of course bulks up the profile

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Hey! I appreciate you reaching out. Unfortunately I’ve been having the same issue with mine. I’m still using them on easier pitches hoping they loosen up. Let me know if yours do!

[@TheKiltedClimber]

@@grahmtheoverstoker Good to know! Thanks for getting back to me. I'll persevere and hope they get a little more bend. I'm tempted to store them with a weight or band over the rails and wire to speed things up...will drop you a line if it works!

[@mateojacome9177]

Hi Grahm, great vid! I loved tricams so much the first time I used one I immediately got a set of Abalaks (cuz they cheap af hehe). I've seen they have some drawbacks compared to camp tricams (mainly the wire). They feel like they won't really be usable in a passive position (which tricams do greatly) because of the wire stiffness and angle. Besides, I guess placing them can become a bit trickier too. I loved watching that in your vid. How do you compare them to camp tricams? are they simply worse on the things I said, or do they have some advantages?

[@haphaeu]

why do you place tricams upside down in horizontal cracks?

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Either way works but that way feels best to me most of the time. I can’t explain it haha

[@haphaeu]

@@grahmtheoverstoker =D tricam placement is somewhat exoteric haha don't remember where or when I read this, but always had with me to have the slings up in horiz placements... anyway, if it feels solid is all that matters

[@haphaeu]

fwiw, here’s what CAMP says about it in the manual: In horizontal or diagonal cracks you have a choice of positioning the TRI-CAM fulcrum up or fulcrum down. Neither way is best in all situations. Sometimes if you're climbing directly above the placement, fulcrum down will offer the greatest security. At other times (when traversing or angling away from the placement) it's best to have the fulcrum up. But there are no hard and fast rules for this.

[@bryankano6247]

if you werent going tricams only, would you have placed the first piece earlier?

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Maybe! There’s plenty of placement opportunities. I had two friends lead it this day as well and they both placed a cam or two early. The climbing at the beginning isn’t too challenging though fortunately

[@johnio_lozanio]

Why no jams for first 3.5 minutes?!

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

Too easy

[@mattking3852]

Definitely only 5.8...

[@jonfrank5113]

Matt try going right with the mantle and tell me what you think. Check the comments above. All the best.

[@samweiss3248]

As a Northeast climber, this is a beautiful sight to behold... peak tricam usage 🥲 Where did you get your Abalaks from? Shipping seems pretty high to the states.

[@grahmtheoverstoker]

They’re the best! We’ve got a few loyal tricam users out here and growing. I got the Abalaks from this Italian website. Shipped extremely fast for $25!www.oliunid.com