I refrained from replying to your previous videos, but this time I want to say a few things. 1 - the 80mp version can’t have any movement. You will never get the best out of that feature if there is any camera movement. I’m surprised that you don’t know that. The moving strap alone, is interfering with getting a sharp result. Plus the wind. Of course the Nikon shot is going to be sharper. 2 - if you want to take a hi res shot in windy conditions on a tripod, switch on HHHR. it works on a tripod. 3 - for sharpening in Lightroom, use these settings: Sharpening - 75 Radius - 2.7 Detail - 3 Masking - 50 The Nikon may still be sharper, but at least give the Olympus a chance by using it properly. You went from driving an automatic transmission to a manual transmission and blamed the car.
@jazzcats100015 минут бұрын
Pointed these out the first test, pointed them again the second test. Not sure why Dave is persisting on repeating the same mistakes (flapping strap, manual focus or at least same focus technique on all cameras, improper sharpening), which I find disappointing as I am also curious to see the true potential of HR against 45MPix sensor. Perhaps next time ;-)
@paulmuadibatreid4 сағат бұрын
The HighRes mode RAWs require (and love) more sharpening in post. To get the sharpest result, I use the OM Workshop to produce a neutral tiff which I can then edit in C1.
@bhovis3 сағат бұрын
Agreed. I’ve found that RAW conversion in OM Workspace is necessary to get the best results from hi-res files. But that’s all I use it for because it’s so excruciating slow.
@paulmuadibatreid3 сағат бұрын
@@bhovis Indeed. I got some better result in C1 by tweaking the sharpness settings.
@georgebowden67482 сағат бұрын
Hi Dave, my thoughts are that if the handheld Olympus was better, was the ibis turned on for the handheld & then off for the tripod shot?. The same theory goes for the OM-1, also I couldn't help but notice the flapping camera strap which could cause the motion blur. I do know that I haven't had any similar issues with my Olympus set-up when changing the ibis & I do not use a camera strap. Merry Xmas to you All the Very Best for 2025.
@lensman57623 сағат бұрын
I have D810, D800 and Canon and Leica digital cameras as well as film. I also have an EM1 MKII, and EM5 MKII. For still life and controlled macro shots the EM1 MKII in High Res Mode does match the D800, but not the D810 in resolution. The difference is small but it is there. I would never use the Olympus for any landscape shots with any moving subjcet or in the wind in the high res mode. I used to do a lot of proper long exposure deep sky imaging using astrographs and peltier cooled CCD imaging devices more than a decade ago, and there was a complicated process called 'Drizzle' which NASA came up with for correcting the undersampling of the Hubble Space Telescope Wide Field and Planetary cameras which we sometimes used. Undesampling in normal human language means that the resolution of the active matrix array mirror of the telescope was higher than the sensors that were used in the cameras. I wrote this to make it clear that I know how Drizzle suppose to work. I am not going into the software and hardware routine of Drizzle, but it is very very similar to this High Res mode that now all the mirrorless cameras seem to employ. This has been made possible by huge advances in the IBIS and the microprocessors inside these cameras where the sensor could be precisely moved by one pixel dimension. When the camera takes 8 shots with one pixel offset, these images will have to be registered to each other by the microprocessor to produce a detailed image. If there is subject movement or the minutest camera shake ( we are talking of the order of microns here not tenths of millimiteres), the process could fail as the images will not be registered correctly to each other and a blur will result. I have heard that the newer Olympus or OM cameras have done away with the requirement of the camera needing the most stable platform. You findings seem to indicate that this is not exactly true. Perhaps the use of AI within the camera could remap the pixels and sort out the blur problem, or perhaps not. Interesting test, though.
@rockitdude45 минут бұрын
The OM-1 tripod high res mode does not provide any significant advantage in landscape photography, because whether it's waves or trees or amber waves of grain, stuff is moving and gets blurred. The real test for whether to use OM System cameras for landscape should just be tripod mounted OM-1 vs tripod mounted Nikon, straight up RAW. Then you would find which lenses are best. I have seen several test that show that the OM 12-40 f/2.8 Pro is inferior in sharpness to the OM 12-45 f/4 Pro. Which is why I have the latter. Furthermore, I also have the OM 45mm f/1.2 Pro. I go this lens for shallow depth of field at f/1.2, yet, when it's stopped down to 2.0 or smaller, it is stupid sharp and I doubt that any Nikon zoom lens combined with full frame sensor could best it.
@DaveEP2 сағат бұрын
Interesting video. I have been an Olympus shooter for many years. I have the OM1 mark II and also now a Z8. I tried and tried to make the OM1-II hi-res mode work well enough to rely on it, but alas there are too many situations where it falls down due to movement in the scene or some other spurious causes. Don't get me wrong, I love the OM1-II but for any Hi-Res work the Z8 just beats it. Also don't forget, if the situation works for the Hi-Res mode on the OM1-II, then the Z8 also has a Hi-Res mode which gives you 180MP files which are stunning. You then also have the option of sharing lenses with the Z7 so while the Z8 is heavier than the OM1-II, you aren't carrying two sets of lenses.
@davepeckphotography2 сағат бұрын
Good points. The only thing stopping me getting a Z8 is if I were to fall in Lofoten or the camera falls, it will be the lens that takes the brunt of it and therefore having a second body and only one broken lens is not going to work. I can get an OM1, 7-14 and a 40-150 for a similar price to a Z8. Problem solved
@DaveEP2 сағат бұрын
@@davepeckphotography You could of course take a second Nikon lens instead of the 7-14 & 40-150. The 7-14 is not a light lens (I owned it and sold it - check out the 8-25 which takes filters whereas the 7-14 doesn't) and the 40-150 would need to be the F4 to be considered small and light ( I had the f2.8 version up to getting the Z8). Either way. it's up to you. Sometimes we just need new gear to add something different for inspirational reasons and to challenge us, which I don't criticise in any way at all. If I were to try to sell you on the OM1-II it would be on the computational modes (Live ND, Live GND etc) as well as live time and live bulb for extra fun with long exposures. However, after playing with the Live ND and Live GND for quite a while I eventually went back to using regular filters because there were just enough circumstances where the Live ND/GND didn't quite get me what I know I could get with real filters. In a pinch they work, but you have to be willing to work around their issues.
@MarkSandbach4 сағат бұрын
Interesting.. Have you tried the em1x high res without waves? I have the em1x and I don’t have an issue but I don’t live near the coast
@MerseaMillsy3 сағат бұрын
Can't believe you're using the Lofoten jacket already !!! 🙄