The Red Knob 5.7+ and anchor building

[@Phoenixhunter157]

Thank you. I love seeing climbing from this POV. I’m new to climbing but hope to one day soon do lead and trad climbing. It’s really nice to see it this way.

[@unklhefe]

great stuff. nice technique. thank you for leaving the anchor building in there!

[@johny79action]

From what I saw doing this could get you killed :(

[@Hiker1792]

@@johny79action You're not wrong, rock climbing can get you killed

[@emiltjonneland721]

You can't post a climbing video on KZbin without attracting the attention of every perfect technique climbing trolls. Great video man!

[@chad4853]

This is so true

[@WiseFrank]

Props to anyone sharing POV videos of trad routes. Great job and great video ! ✌🏻

[@johnchan6191]

Wow, really gr8 vdo on yur climb. Taught me about placement w/ active & passive anchors. Thx 4 sharing on the internet. Keep on climbing.

[@SupernewtX]

Love videos like this, so great for people getting into trad, thanks for putting it up!

[@Hiker1792]

Thank you! I appreciate the comment! Hoping to film more this year!

[@princenabby1]

There are a lot of negative comments here from armchair punters. I thought he did great. There's nothing wrong with carrying a lot of gear if that makes you feel comfortable, nor with placing a lot of pieces if that helps a climber feel comfortable too. And it's better to have gear with extension than to have rope drag and cams that walk. Is there room for refinement? Sure. Maybe. But I see a lot of people here just punching down for the sake of it.

[@Trebelhornc]

Dude, super great climb. Cheers.

[@ananda_miaoyin]

That was clean. Nice work. It does suck to get to the perfect hold to find it full of water...or ants.

[@JEfay311]

Nice LIC Cliffs lead card!

[@KBDProductionsTV]

Very nice!

[@torsteinraaby]

This is awesome. Thank you.

[@telestix6606]

Solid lead

[@apple11117]

why would you always extend the trad gear with a sling? I only do sport so I don't know too much about trad gear, but couldn't you clip directly to the gear instead of extending it?

[@Hiker1792]

Thanks for the comment! This is a super common question for those transitioning to trad. The reason for the extended sling is so the rope has more play and the piece doesn't "walk" out of the crack. If you keep your draws short there is a likelihood of the rope influencing the position of your piece. Hope I explained it well!

[@lucafranzino5807]

New to trad and outdoor climbing. Just wondering why you cant clip the rope directly into the runner on the cam. Why do you clip the quickdraw onto the gear you set?

[@rauski5971]

You can, but adding the extension prevents movement in the rope from pulling on each piece of protection preventing them from walking and either falling out or getting stuck.

[@legofive]

You seem to place gear a little shallow I would be wary of that in softer Rock

[@tomlocaladventures]

Americans seem to be focused with placing cams, you're putting cams in perfect nut/hex placements dude!

[@dukeofnuke2446]

Just a personal preference if you like cams or tricams or nuts or hexes or ball nuts just use them.

[@TheLordsaviour]

I climb in the UK and its a big difference. I almost always reach for my stoppers over a cam if I have the choice.

[@AndyThomasStaff]

Is the carabiner at the end of the cam at 1:15 not enough to clip into? Should you always attach a quickdraw to the end of a cam?

[@somanayr]

Cams have a tendency to walk if you don't extend them. As you climb past, if you don't extend the gear, the cam may move out of place. If you extend it, then the sling will move around freely and leave the cam in place.

[@Cardsandstoagies]

Unless you have a good reason not to, extend every gear placement with a draw. An extended placement decreases the likelihood of the load in the event of a fall being away from the direction of pull, so your cam will work as designed and expected. If you fall on an unextended cam the load may have a changing direction, think you start to weight the cam before you reach the lowest point in the fall. This makes the placement extremely weak unless there is excessive slack in the system. Unless you are in a splitter crack where all placements are deep and all falls are dead vertical, or extending the placement would lead to a potential ground fall, extend it! 3 injuries in the gunks in the past month that Ive heard of would have been saved if the climbers had enough extension.

[@capitaldhakatv3980]

How did Hilary and Tenjin make that when these were not invented?

[@TheCwag]

552 you have both hands on a horn then you placed a cam was the horn no good?

[@Hiker1792]

Yeah hard to tell from the video but there's no way in hell you'd be able to sling that horn, not nearly as prominent as it appears in the video. At 5:30 I knock on that lighter piece of rock.... that's because I ripped that piece out a few years earlier. Rock quality is pretty sketchy at this site

[@mynamejehf]

hey I'm a bit of a noob at climbing, however could you tell me how you would clean the anchor and still get down safely?

[@Hiker1792]

This route has a rappel anchor about 3 feet up and to the right of my anchor. My partner and I scrambled up to it to rappel. In this area there is also the option of walking back down to the bottom via a trail.

[@JGstunts22]

@@Hiker1792 so does your partner grab all your anchors on his way up?

[@Hiker1792]

@@JGstunts22 that is correct! I belay hin from the top and he will clean as he climbs.

[@JGstunts22]

@@Hiker1792 thx , I'm just thinking about starting to climb . Trying to learn

[@AndyThomasStaff]

What was up with the long quickdraw at 6:30? Couldn't that spin and lead to a backclip?

[@mattgraham4340]

Generally, this risk of a "back clip" incident is much higher with the short, stiff dogbones that are on sport draws. The sling on an alpine draw will rotate relatively freely, and make a that incident unlikely. However, alpine draws may introduce other risks. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqPPfH-Jbsp-aJo rockandice.com/climbing-accidents/gear-rips-leading-climber-critical/

[@Hiker1792]

The key thing to notice about that placement is how I put the spine of the carabiner in the direction I was headed. If I fell off and the gate was on that side there's a chance the rope could open the gate.

[@mattminahan7376]

I thought the long sling made sence. Seemed like he was over 10ft from the last piece of protection. The long sling put him back in that 10ft area? Just a thought. 🤔

[@BM-tk1cn]

So how do you get your gear down and rappel off? There were no chains to lower off of

[@karczilla]

the second cleans the gear. or if you second is climbing after you, you rappel down and clean it yourself. you can walk around and down the cliff at this crag. you can also loop your rope around a tree so both ends are on the ground, rappel down (cleaning if no second climbed after you), and then pull the rope down. this cliff is only 80ish feet, so a nice single rope rappel to the bottom.

[@heli400]

a good 2nd placement and also waste of time2nd placement.... with that easy climbing afterwards I feel... but I am only a year or two into it myself, so I'll just continue to watch...

[@6king533]

how do you clean a trad route?

[@chinfat]

Usually, the lead climber anchors in (as you see in this video), then the belay the follower up. The one following pulls the gear out as he/she is belayed by the person who lead. If you place nuts instead of cams, the follower will have a nut tool to aid in pooping out the nuts.

[@TheRandomSpectator]

Ok, so another noob climber here (I've actually only climbed indoors at this point). What's the difference between a hex and a nut, AND when do you choose to use a hex vs. a nut vs. a cam?

[@Shane98270]

TheRandomSpectator Hexes and nuts differ in size and shape. look em up and you'll see. Hexes can also have a slight camming action depending on how you place theme, nuts not so much. And for what gear you use when, it's whatever works. The rock determines that for you, and most of the time there's only 1-2 pieces that will fit in any given placement.

[@poacher5131]

TheRandomSpectator Nuts only work in constrictions i.e. where the rock narrows and the nut can wedge in. A cam can grip a parallel sided crack and also allows for protection in multiple directions (nuts lift out when loaded upwards) what you use depends on: 1. Direction of pull 2. Size of crack 3. Shape of crack 4. Whatever you happen to be dragging up the wall with you. When you climb trad for the first time, find someone who knows exactly what they're doing and watch their every move.

[@ayaffnoneyme6093]

more

[@vittommmy514]

good... ;-)

[@olivia4394]

I know nothing about trad climbing - Why does he use two quickdraws for each clip?

[@niksingh210]

you have enough gear on for the nose...a bit weighed down for a 5.7+ ?! whatcha think? or is this a gear focused hobby?also half those slings were unnecessary...and added more lead to your line

[@chocolatedumdum2]

yeah i felt like he had no need to add draws to some of the cams

[@Hiker1792]

Ok, can you explain your reason why you think slings are unnecessary?

[@Hiker1792]

Come on bud I'm anxiously waiting for your answer! I've only been climbing for 6 years I don't know what I'm doing!!

[@niksingh210]

i wouldnt generalize by saying slings are unecessary...in fact they are necessary in most all situations. I only meant to say that for several of the placement you made in this video the extra line created by using the slings on the cams would create more slack hence more exerted force on the cam in the event of the fall. Basically, using the sling on many of the placements did not help you by relocating the rope for the remaining climb, as i think you were meaning for it to do, it instead made the cam placement more likely for a pull out in the event of a fall. did i explain properly? or should i edit?

[@Hiker1792]

So I agree with you on a few things here. First of all yes when you extend any piece of gear you are taking the risk of a longer fall and therefor a more forceful fall. However, the dynamic property of the rope, my belayer getting lifted and the very slight dynamic properties of a nylon runner all work together to lessen the forces on the piece of pro. Now could I have just clipped in a shortened draw and kept going like I did for my first pieces? probably. I like to fully extend my placements for 2 reasons. The first is rope drag. By extending pro it helps the rope run in a straight line and keeps drag to a minimum. The second and in my opinion more important reason why you want to extend pro is to prevent it from walking in or out of the crack. If I had clipped the rope directly into the carabiner on any of those cams there would have been a higher risk of the rope playing against it and either causing it to walk deeper into the crack (getting stuck potentially) or walking out, yikes!!

[@CharlieTrevaskis]

your poor go pro taking his from the rock!

[@aaronhanes7114]

Definitely didnt need all that gear on. plus leaving an extra biner on every piece of protection seems a little wasteful to me. just makes more work for the second.

[@Hiker1792]

I definitely could have left some gear on the ground especially since I've climbed it in the past. I was trying out that racking system for the day and didn't like it. I now rack my pro on my harness and for multi pitch I do ditch the extra biners and just put the slings over my shoulder. I do rack a few draws with both biners on my harness for nuts though.

[@johny79action]

I cringed so bad @7:25

[@happysnacktime]

Johny Action looked like a pretty bomber placement to me

[@davidkoch5018]

You can drop a truck on that one... as long as u dont blow out the whole ledge... The Hex nut aint giving...

[@Logibox0494]

@@happysnacktime I was more confused by the massive extension for no reason

[@happysnacktime]

@@Logibox0494 True true. Unnecessary?

[@IMixYourMusic]

This is painful to watch.