Historical Chinese Fashions from the 20th Century and Earlier, Luxury Timeless Craftsmanship

[@bunnishi5573]

Been following your stuff since 2015 and I love it! The embroidery patch is called 补子（bu zi, rank badge) in Chinese, and was sewn right in the middle of gowns for everyone that was a part of the court. ( This is why a lot of patches are separated in halves, they were right in the middle of the garment and the toggle buttons would split them in half). For the inner court (Emperor, empress, concubines) it was a round piece, for the court officials it would be a square like the one you have. Different ranks have different animals, and the 文官(Wen guan, scholarly officials) would have different birds to show their wisdom, the 武官(Wu guan, military officials) would have more aggressive animals like lions, tigers to show their force. The one you have is a Golden pheasant, as the phoenix was the imperial bird of the Empress and nobody else was allowed to use it. The pheasant is the second-highest rank of the scholarly officials. Many of these patches would have waves and mountains, cause the ancient Chinese word for "society" is 江山, Jiang Shan, which literally translates to rivers and mountains. To have waves and mountains embroidered in is a sign of good fortune for a long-lasting and stable reign. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mandarin_square Wikipedia has a table explaining the ranks and different animals explained!

[@thewaywewore7371]

Beidi Wan WOW! What a wonderful explanation. I really appreciate you taking the time to educate me. Hopefully other people will also read this. Hoping you are someplace safe and are healthy. Thanks for your kindness. Doris

[@sassy7251]

Indeed nice to learn, listen and read the both of you...🤗..you should both get an embroiderrrred golden butterfly surrounded by stars or sumthing beautifull on your chests to honour LOL

[@QuirkyGirl10]

@Beidi Wan how fascinating! Thanks for the information:)

[@cndluluv]

The passion in this woman is a thing of beauty.

[@uhuhyup5328]

The one special quality i really like about your videos is that even though you're not raving, one can feel that underneath your calm demeanor, you really are EXTREMELY passionate about the pieces and the subject. You seem to be really moved by them. And i for one am moved by that. That's something one cant fake. A genuine love for one's trade. Beautiful pieces as usual. Nothing beats great craftsmanship. Thank you Doris.

[@Valolopez]

How about a special on leather jackets. Different eras, different styles, etc. The significance of such an iconic piece and how it has been transformed over time :) Love ya Doris!

[@thewaywewore7371]

Valeria Lopez Torres Hi Valeria. Just a quick note to let you know we don’t have a lot of leather jackets and my preference (at this point in time) is to do episodes in areas where I actually have pieces to show as examples. I will put this on my list of possible future episodes- just in case - if I end up buying a few pieces from different periods. Thanks for watching! Doris

[@sarah-jane3627]

Beautiful, I love that you shine a light on ethnic fashion, too often the only references people have are costumes

[@conversacionesconmipadre]

Oh, how I wish Doris would give us a tour of her house. I can't imagine the treasures that she may have. Dear Doris, please make a video dedicated to showing us your home!

[@thewaywewore7371]

FAL G Hi there. I am keeping my personal life to myself but will reveal a little bit with objects and treasures I bring in from my home from time to time.

[@cathybutler5291]

I am blown away by the handwork on these pieces, your knowledge on clothing is nothing short of remarkable!

[@Chicmarr]

A Doris home tour video would be to die !!!

[@KvDenko]

As an embroiderer, this has been an incredible treat. Thank you for sharing this ❤️

[@thewaywewore7371]

You are most welcome! Thank you for keeping this art form alive! Doris

[@spencermoore7579]

I hope you keep on posting, you will never know how much you teach and are looked too. You have a great eye, thank you so much for the hard work! 🌞

[@thewaywewore7371]

spencer moore Hi Spencer! Thanks for your kind words. We have cut back to posting 1 video every 2 weeks because of how much time it takes to make these and to hopefully do it right. Thanks for watching!! Doris

[@astridbeckmann2520]

I so much love the little noises one can hear in the video that come from the fabrics and garments.

[@juliemiller9258]

I rescued a few pieces from my dad's house, but sadly I think my sister had the majority thrown away. So wonderful to see so many pieces that you have been able to save.

[@catrionakilgallon4400]

Doris I could listen to you for hours. I always learn so much and these episodes are so enjoyable. Keep them coming!

[@castoputa]

Also thank you so so so much for doing your videos, and showing all the interesting parts like the insides. You stand alone, but magnificently so!

[@sammi4111]

You speak like a professor! I enjoyed this very much thank you.

[@nancyboykin8769]

Absolutely stunning Doris! There is nothing more beautiful than ethnic embroidery! Thank you so much for sharing. I have collected vintage for 25 years, and I am learning so much from you!

[@meridethtexastwister]

I love watching your videos. I look forward to each new video. I learn so much from you.

[@SandraNelson063]

I am Pisces myself, and also love the purples, mauves, pinks and fuschias. Those hand embroidered Chinese pieces are glorious. It would be like wrapping a Renoir, Fontain-Latour or Monet around yourself, to wear them. What's frustrating is that we don't know who the creators of these pieces are. Their work is not signed. What a pity. They should be remembered with pride.

[@agatarek_pl]

Dearest Doris! I can't describe how much I admire you and your passion to every detail - your channel and shop is a treasure but you are the biggest treasure as vintage guru! Thank you so much ❤️

[@cecewonderwoman4617]

Imagine the time it would take to make just one garment! Truly a work of art. Thank you for sharing. 😊

[@amandapittar9398]

You looked gorgeous in that colour. It also looked elegant and so silky. I’ve always loved those pieces for their comfort but colour and beauty. Your videos are like oasis in the desert. I find them interesting, informative and visually delightful. Thank you. 🌺🌸🌼😊🌼🌸🌺

[@fedmara5058]

Doris, you are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you so much.

[@QuirkyGirl10]

Just beautiful! I esp love the textiles. The embroidery on that red piece at the beginning looks almost like a print; the embroidery is so fine.

[@pachotandfamily6120]

Everything that you feature is such a feast to our senses. I love it!! I hope you feature Japanese kimonos too 💗 All love for you Doris..all love 💗💗💗💗💗💗

[@colinhalliley111]

When Nixon went to China , America embraced all things China. My Aunt who was a nurse in the Korean Conflict brought back lovely items . They were made so well and were unique.

[@steven_ryan]

So inspiring, as always! I’m floored by the intricate gradient embroidery on the early Chinese pieces, and am absolutely obsessed with the APOC concept; I hadn’t heard of that before and can’t wait to journey down that rabbit hole. I love Issey Miyake. Everything I learn about his work surprises me. Thank you for sharing! It’s honestly such a joy, Doris.

[@redbougainvillea]

Gorgeous pieces! I also respond most to ethnic pieces. They are so rich with history and story.

[@elizah9917]

I can't get enough of this channel. I keep rewatching the mexican silver video.

[@TsetsiStoyanova]

this Chinese getup looks smashing on you!

[@barbmcintyre1792]

In the 80's at the China exhibit in Seattle there were many textile fabric & embroidery clothing. What was stunning to watch women embroidery on both sides of one cloth with different patterns on both sides. Just gorgeous and unique.

[@barbmcintyre1792]

@@chunlee7187 Sorry no I don' collect any. I've only come across it once at a garage sale & passed on it. Since know one in my community collects it.

[@barcyorky]

Doris I think you are my best cyber friend! What a mind blowing film! Loved everything about it but was particularly struck by the bamboo underwear and the fantastic shawl that preceded it. My husband is completely nuts on bamboo socks at the moment so that idea has contemporary reach! I love that idea of the protective layer under clothes, reminds me of the shift of the Georgian/Victorian era. You should see the films on KZbin by Crows Eye Productions in the UK, you would love them I’m sure! Thank you so much for sharing your passion!

[@saharkasraie8624]

I can't tell you how much I enjoy your work. Great great educational video thank you so much

[@blaire85]

Beautiful pieces. I have a 1920s cream silk piano shawl that I rescued from being thrown out with the rubbish after my partners great aunt died. I keep in in tissue paper to preserve the colours of the embroidery.

[@jennym007]

This is something I personally would not wear, but would love to own as a piece of displayable art. The intricate work is amazing, your purple piece is my favourite.💜 Hope you are staying well 🌸

[@verybarebones]

Silk is too delicate anyway, after some decades it gets too damaged by regular wear to use it

[@kimonodragon9099]

thank you so much for sharing your immense knowledge with the world. you’re absolutely amazing and i just wanted to thank you!

[@hermaggiesty]

I get so excited when you post a new video. Thank you

[@SusanBishop555]

I love clothes, fashion and you! Thanks so much for sharing your wonderful collections. Your clothes blow my mind.

[@marnaschoeman7794]

Addicted to this series!

[@fortysomethingbadgirls2173]

Wow! Even the lesser quality embroidery pieces shows a lot of work! Thank you for sharing.

[@nikolaskoulountis6200]

That turquoise colour on your Chinese jacket really pops, lovely!

[@karenwest116]

Hi Doris thank you for being so generous with your knowledge. I have loved listening to you and it has greatly increased my appreciation of culture, fashion and cloth XxKaren

[@JaesadaSrisuk]

Wow, it must feel like such an incredible privilege to handle Qing Dynasty or Republic of China-era garments and see those embroideries up close!

[@deidrabenson361]

I can’t begin to tell you how much I love ❤️ your videos!! The garments are absolutely beautiful, looking forward to the next one!!😍😍

[@pachotandfamily6120]

The Mandarin squares or rank badges were used from the 15th to 16th century by Yuan to Qing Dynasty maybe until 1912 by Civil officials that originated in china but also used in korea. Birds for civil officials. Animals for military officials. 😇😇😇

[@thewaywewore7371]

Pachot Javier Thanks for this really good info!! Doris

[@pachotandfamily6120]

@@thewaywewore7371 anything for you Doris.lots of love 💗💗💗

[@noahhysteric]

these are such beautiful pieces! can’t wait to start collecting

[@noelgallagher4204]

Loved this.

[@lualncol]

One of my favorites that Doris has done- so interesting, and the information makes them even lovelier

[@patriciatagliabue5037]

Doris amazing piece ...thank u again

[@jayneneewing2369]

What beautiful pieces. I love chinese inspired clothing, jewelry, and other things. Thank you for showing us this absolutely beautiful things.

[@djchyld5222]

Always looking forward to your videos!! I'm loving learning about fashion history and you make it so fascinating!!

[@omygod9062]

Raise the Red Lantern really has beauty everywhere in it. Of course not the end

[@usheilan8713]

Great video. I love Chinese designs. And your show off piece was fabulous. Wow!

[@slave4glue]

That bamboo reed jacket is extraordinary, I've never seen anything like that before. Craig Green or Rick Owens could do some wonderful things using that piece as inspiration.

[@thewaywewore7371]

octagon_eight I completely agree. Also Hussein Chalayan.

[@TheDressUpMom]

I also love ethnic pieces. My absolute favorite things to wear. Thank you for sharing these gems.

[@clementinemonroe717]

I was in Marshall's and the clothing spoke, "Get out!"

[@thewaywewore7371]

You are hysterical Clementine so I had to reply. YOU made me chuckle. Thanks for the laugh. I needed that. And thanks for watching my show. I appreciate your interest and hope you have a chance to visit the store (post-COVID19) Doris

[@suginami123]

I do hope you are well and taking great care of yourself. Best wishes from Tokyo.

[@reginaibrahim3374]

thanks Doris... it's very kind of you to share... love.

[@fatemeroudini1260]

loved this episode thanks dear Doris😍😍

[@dianemughal1577]

The collar is magnificent I would stitch that on a shirt Have been to Far East and also obsessed with their pieces I have many embroidered shawls

[@ohmygod243]

thank you for posting these.

[@judytelles3518]

Doris at her best again,thank you.

[@marikotrue3488]

I love Asian (Chinese and Japanese) style along with Art Deco. For a while I collected early 20th Japanese clothing (haori, kimono, obi, obiage, obijime), a few boxes and Kokeshi (simple cylinder-shaped dolls). Sadly only a few pieces are displayed, most are stored. I enjoy that antique and vintage pieces are given a chance "to live" on this channel with some time for all of us to admire their beauty.

[@nehajohari1234]

Lovely and informative as always!!! Dorris I think that the purple embroidered coat has Parsi Gara embroidery.

[@en1909s9iah]

Great, again!

[@elizabethrauscher3660]

Beautiful pieces. Thank you for sharing.

[@aries0028]

that piece of textile at 7:26 is used to cover skirt alter tables. From the back it looks Peranakan so it could have been a "Tok Wee"; a cloth used to cover the alter table of prayer.

[@realmms]

Thanks for the close ups! So amazing

[@zikafashion]

Wow amazing video, thank you!Love your videos and introduction, your energy and love for fashion & art.Bravo

[@sum12sumwhere]

Beautiful embellishments...makes me think i can spruce up some items i have already with a little detail...time to brush up on my embroidery skills

[@vy221]

Thank you Doris and the Way We Wore gang for these videos! :) On the note of heritage fashion, I'll submit a request for Persian fashion/jewelry/accessories whatever that Doris has!

[@jenniferhuestis1570]

Love what you have on

[@SherbetSelket]

My favourite episode so far!

[@1978Witty]

Wow!! So many beautiful pieces.

[@castoputa]

I’m probably wrong, but I think the purple is Japanese, the embroidery has a twisted thread and that isn’t used in souzhou work. It’s actually an incredible piece, even though it’s not as fine in execution, the flex is in the precision.

[@rachelpierson6957]

I just love these videos.

[@normadeleon1590]

Doris, did you find the documentary about Wally Simpson? I think is in the Eduard VIII documentary!!! It’s show of Wally’s dress!! Thank you sweetheart for today show 😘🌹🌹🌹

[@jessiejoseph1093]

These videos are everything.

[@Mikeluangrath]

Favorite thing about thursdays is your channel 🥺

[@judiskalet964]

Beautiful as always

[@Kam-nv1wg]

Doris, thank you so much for your videos. I like to incorporate fashion/designs in my artwork, especially ethnic designs. The purple dress with the scarf on the neck to flap back, on the dress form, I believe is more of a kurta or kurti, a type Punjabi wear. But I may be wrong. Thank you again. Please continue to inspire us... 👍

[@supermilkchan123]

Beyond jealous of that Issey Miyake A-POC garment! 😍

[@lmae9766]

Just fabulous! 🤗❤️👍

[@tamarakindle73]

wow such handwork beautiful

[@deborahmelo7993]

Lovely!

[@nicolebunn1220]

An episode on Fortuny would be amazing!

[@thewaywewore7371]

Nicole Bunn Hi Nicole! So much of whether or not we can actually do an episode depends on IF we have the material. Guess what??!! Stay tuned. 😊 Thanks for watching!! Doris

[@sylviafenech4547]

So informative thank you Doris. 👩🏻‍🌾

[@comolosolivos]

Fantastic!

[@shelbyhaase9754]

Just found your channel and love your videos.

[@starcrib]

terrific episode. 🥢

[@brontealissia6564]

Those collars 😱😭😍

[@MA7-6585]

Thank you for your video.

[@trinifernandez4262]

The shawl of min 8.59 reminds me of what we called in Spain "Manila's shawls". Women would buy one to use it on special occasions and treated it with so much care so they could pass it to the next generation. Such a shame they are not used anymore 😢

[@thewaywewore7371]

Trini Fernández Hi Trini. I completely agree. I’ve seen a troupe of flamenco dancers use them in their performance and have sold many to people to use as an accent piece in their home. The fringe length makes it a little daunting for diminutive people- but there are ways to handle that. Thanks for watching.! Doris

[@trinifernandez4262]

@@thewaywewore7371 thank you for making such interesting content

[@4pursewarden]

Trini Fernández, I've think the same. I believe it's not a chinese piece but a spanish Manila's shawl. The kind of embroidery flowers, the use of the colors, the tassels... reminds me of Spain.

[@thewaywewore7371]

Hi again. If you google Chinese embroidered piano shawls 1920s and manton de Manila - you’ll see there is a lot of similarities. In fact, Wikipedia mentions the origins of these shawls was China. In the vintage clothing world and auctions, most of these shawls are referred to as “China export”. In the 1920s there was a large amount produced in China to capitalize on their popularity. There are differences but hard to tell from photos. I believe the pieces I showed were made in China but you bring up a really good point. Thanks and Happy New Year!

[@missmalibumattel]

You need to look up fong leng, dutch70’s/80’s designer who made art into fashion!

[@thewaywewore7371]

missmalibumattel THANK YOU for your suggestion!! I was unaware of Fong Leng but has the good fortune to interact with the Dutch director - Jasmina Felovic - who did the documentary “Matilda Willink”. Matilda was a muse and patron of Fong Leng. Haven’t seen the doc yet but while I was in Amsterdam I actually found one of her pieces. It was too expensive for the American market but WOW. I’d you have any more tips- please let me know. Many thanks. Doris

[@missmalibumattel]

@@thewaywewore7371 fong leng is expensive, i have one couture silk dress from fong leng i found for 15 dollars! She really turned art into fashion!

[@thewaywewore7371]

missmalibumattel Goodness gracious! What part of the world did you find that? Can you email me an image of the dress and the label? [e-mail] Thanks!

[@lynng510]

First off I want to comment on the beautiful embroidery! I love to see the craftsmanship and the skill that went into these garments and textiles. I wanted to comment on the bamboo (?)undergarment that you showed us. You were commenting on how this is something that should be introduced in today’s culture, something that protects the outer clothing. Victorians had this covered with the use of their chemise. All of those Beautifully crafted dresses and corsets were protected by the use of these. And of course the fact that they were made out of natural fibers helped them breathe. I would love to see if you have any true Victorian or Edwardian pieces in your collection as well as some of the undergarments. I’m so interested in acquiring some Victorian undergarments as well as dresses. During that time is was all about Worth gowns ...they were “the thing” and their clothing was beautiful, handcrafted and specifically made for the individual so each piece is special and I just love that I wish we could adopt that idea again. I love looking at your collection I can just imagine how beautiful it must be in person and congratulations on your success.

[@vivienmcnaul109]

Wonderful. Really enjoyable 💚💕

[@marvinraphaelmonfort8289]

Thankyou, doris! Now i know what couching looks like (read a conservation book maybe last year but the pictures were bnw and not zoomed) and also have seen cut-silk velvet fabric before bit never knew it was called that - looks like magic to me teehee. And i love purple, too! =]

[@beehorngooi9111]

Hi Doris, thank you so much for sharing all the wonderful knowledge on fashion, I’ve enjoyed yr channel immensely , and you really know your craft well , so informative. For the rank badge that you have featured here , if I’m not mistaken is a civil 2nd rank official : golden pheasant, recognizably the 2 feathered tails

[@thewaywewore7371]

Beehorng Ooi Thanks for this information AND your kind words!

[@tootsiePOP745]

do you have Caribbean or african style you can show?

[@thewaywewore7371]

Lions mane You know- that is an area that I lack in great pieces. I have some African textiles but nothing I would consider “special” enough to warrant an episode. I LOVE the symbology of both areas but it’s a question of whether or not pieces come up sorry to disappoint you. Doris

[@Bernababes-3]

I knew she is a Pisces. I know my fellow Pisces when I see one 👌🏾🤩🤣

[@drbertamariahines6542]

Ms Raymond it is extraordinary your knowledge of all the Fashion 👗👙👠👛🧣Terminology, I never realized that it was so extensive . I have always been enamored with the Chinese Silk dresses which compliment a woman’s figure. Some are made with a rayon fabric 😒. Several years ago I bought a vintage black wool pencil skirt and had the lining replaced with a pink silk one. 🥰