Hobby Cheating 255 - Understanding Thinning Paint Layers, Glazes & Filters

[@petekelly61]

Watching all your videos. I used to paint minis when it was dnd the first time around, ca 1978. I'm retired and have time for a hobby. Just wanted to mention that I don't believe that the pigment forms a covalent bond sharing electrons with the medium. I think the pigment is simply held in suspension in the medium, which is why you have to shake the bottle/pot. Love your channel. Thanks.

[@dl-q3387]

You have become my favorite YT channel for real Things I appreciate about your videos 1. There’s no unnecessarily complicating terminology. I’ve seen too many videos where people get so hung up on different terms without simplifying what they’re trying to say.Just look up photography tutorials, they’ll explain the exposure triangle at length yet never show you footage of them actually taking a picture 2.Theres very little music in the background, and what is there isn’t annoying.This ones self explanatory, I don’t care who I’m watching if they are audio ducking or whatever and every time it drops I hear some annoying music I can’t watch it 3. You’re very aware of your camera.Lots of times I’ll be watching you and you’ll like, accidentally leave the palette out of frame..before I even have time to be annoyed you’re always like “oh, you probably can’t see that sorry I’ll fix that” even in this one when you did the filter I was like “it didn’t even do anything” then you tilted it out of direct light ,boom sure enough there’s a light red tint 4. You upload high quality videos frequently.I watch so many creators that barely ever upload and while I understand that quality takes time, it’s still nice to get stuff to watch more than once every 6 months (I love you SovietWomble never change) Just thought you should hear that.Great channel Vince

[@VinceVenturella]

That means a great deal to me and I greatly appreciate it. :)

[@darthkek1953]

I agree with this but I will add his videos are short, sweet, and to the point. The titles tell you exactly what will be in the video and then the instruction does exactly that. No waffle / funny intros. No jumping through segway segments to get to the real stuff. No overload of information, but not omitting important info either. Just everything you want to know about that topic, concisely and precisely.

[@gor5865]

this was maybe one of the most helpful videos i seen on the difference between everything. thank you so much

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@fitz394]

Oh. I get it now. I cooked for over 20 years and your cooking analogy just unlocked a piece of my brain. I just have to try stuff a bit more often and be a bit bold. Things might not work everytime but the things that do are mine.

[@daemonofdecay]

What I love about videos like these are that so often we forget the difference in knowledge people have. What is obvious to someone might never have occurred to someone else, so sometimes it’s good to look at videos on the basics like brush care or simple terminology. A pleasure as always, Vince!

[@VinceVenturella]

Exactly, there is so much to learn and the reality is that we are all at different points on the hobby journey. :)

[@MLE_blue]

I seriously appreciate the use of the reference sheet. It’ll be a helpful reminder that it’s all ratios and not exact measurements. Also thank you for saying cheekies. Even ogres have cheekies.

[@VinceVenturella]

You got it!

[@the_elder_medium]

Man I love the painting learning process. It's so great to go from watching skilled artists do these kinds of techniques and feel like you're seeing actual magic, to trying them out, practicing them, and harnessing the skill for yourself and then one day realizing that you're now capable of magic too. Thanks for another video!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you so much 😀

[@RyanSandorRichards]

I had such a huge "aha!" moment when you just showed how you thinned the paint and what exact effect it had. I've been struggling with getting it right while painting and was getting frustrated. Now I'm pumped and can't wait to practice this! Thanks so much!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad I could help!

[@hellblazer_original]

Like most of my fellow hobbyists I have seen pretty much EVERY video about thinning paints on KZbin. This one honestly was the best one. After one minute I understood, why my minis look horrible even tho I thin my paints. I thinned them TOO much, so the medium lost the bond, and I was just pushing junks of pigments everywhere, which look similar to too thick colour after drying, chalky and chunky. Thank you.

[@johnathanrhoades7751]

Paint consistency was maybe my hardest hurdle when I started painting (that and brush control), but two years in I am finally feeling more comfortable with getting my paint to where I want it. The "which paint is winning" is a great way to think about it! I haven't heard that before.

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, happy to help as always. :)

[@davidwhittenberg9864]

This is a fantastic video. I would love to see a follow-up video on brush mechanics. How the applied pressure and lift off points of the brush vary with different paint consistencies.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, I have exactly such a video planned. :)

[@christianschmidt1784]

Nice summary of all the small knowledge nuggets from previous videos. Well done. Makes it easier to get a feeling for the consistency. One small trick that NJM is using is really helpful: He tests the paint by painting over the text section of a vallejo paint bottle. And the black and white contrast of the text shows you nicely how strong your layer / glaze is. For beginners this seems perfect to see the min/max effect on a neutral background.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad this was helpful. :)

[@PatRick-ru7qe]

Wouldn't have made it through the previous part of 2020 without Larry. Larry helps mankind through its toughest of times. Long live Larry.

[@VinceVenturella]

Long may he reign. ;)

[@Curran_Kleen_Brown]

Wow. This was super helpful. I'm a visual person, and that graph with the different types was so helpful.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@MisterDoctorLawyer]

as always another perfect crash course for someone newer to the painting part of hobby, and anytime I begin a new painting project or idea I go over the techniques needed and then find a vince video to explain the ins-and-outs of those techniques to help improve the learning curve.

[@richardmarriott-smith9517]

Great video. You explain layering, glazes and filters very clearly. Thanks. My painting continues to improve thanks to your tutorials.

[@dreadpooled]

Hands down one of the most informative and reliable mini painting resources. Thank you Vince!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Alex-mo6zy]

Want to say that as someone who has only painted for 2.5 years. this is something I constantly struggle with. That and accidentally over-thinning everything on my wet pallet. I end up using too thin paint and having to do 4-6 layers to get a solid opaque color im happy with. Thanks for putting the video together, seriously this is one of those skills that most just assume is natural but it really isn't

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, glad it was helpful. :)

[@kofmanmi]

The RAWR at the end is what really sold this for me. Showmanship is so often overlooked these days. Vert helpful

[@VinceVenturella]

It's what I'm here for. ;)

[@hendrickstrauss3311]

Your videos are so helpful! With the quality resources you are providing to new painters we can improve so much faster.

[@element4studios]

The cooking/baking analogy works so well for this. It's also capital "A" Art. Sooo, it's subjective as to what looks "good". Every person's good is different. Yes, within the parameters of a contest, there are benchmarks that you should aim for. In general, though, there are many paths to good.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, the Cooking/Baking thing was something I cottoned to years ago that I think really fits here, works for the delivery and taste as well. ;)

[@grimmgunn4186]

Thank you! Im very new to this, and was getting overwhelmed with information, but your information has given me confidence to get painting.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@davidhintz1249]

As always, huge THANK YOU! This question gets asked all of the time and is really nice to have a video to reference other painters.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@The_Bat]

Brilliant as usual Vincent, finally able to make glazes and not just the old style 10:1 washes. Much improvement shall be forthcoming from now on. Thanks again!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, happy to help. :)

[@BeTheGuitar]

Thank you, Vince, once again for explaining things that I, as a beginner, see going on with my use of paint, but don’t understand. I’ve learned so much from you! Your explanations are always so clear, so easy to relate to my experiences and backed up by examples. Watching your videos always inspires me. From the moment I saw you interviewed on (I think it was) Uncle Atom’s videos where he posed the same question to lots of pro painters, and I though “Damn, this Vince guy talks good” (i.e., he is great at conveying information clearly), I have been hooked on your KZbin output. really can’t thank you enough.

[@BeTheGuitar]

Or it could have been a video on Miniac’s channel. I can’t recall now. I enjoy both their channels. Sorry that I can’t recall who uploaded the interviews. Sigh. Old brain.

[@VinceVenturella]

Well thank you, I appreciate that very much and I am always happy to help. :)

[@michaelbeighley775]

I am getting back into the hobby using both acrylic and oil paints so I have been watching a wide variety of your videos. Thank you and I hope to continue seeing great content from you Vince.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, very happy to help. :)

[@peterlageri4177]

Dear Dana Howl and Vince Venturella. Watching both Vince's video 34 - Preparing for your best Paint Job and video 255 - Understanding Thinning Paint Layers, Glazes & Filters and combining with Dana's How to Underpaint Miniatures and How to Glaze Miniature's I believe I am finally making very good progress in my painting skills. I've been used to blocking in colours and 100% coverage not giving transparency much of a chance. I begin to see the light now (pun intended) Thank you so much both. Best Regards Peter Rasch Lageri Denmark

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, always happy to help. :)

[@Strkr3]

Always informative and in the clearest manner! ABT is my big takeaway. Never rush to failure, lol. Thank you once again!

[@VinceVenturella]

Much appreciated!

[@karlsansom9781]

Larry's little road at the end made the video. Reminded me of the Gerr Arg at the end of Buffy. Made me smile.

[@VinceVenturella]

Absolutely what I was going for. Glad it landed. :)

[@AneurysmHooks]

Fantastic explanations. Thank you, Vince!

[@IvanoModenesi]

Great video, as usual!!! Vince always makes everything to seem so easy😅

[@kendrickwhite4868]

Vince I am a couple months into the hobby and wish I found you sooner. The way you explain everything makes perfect sense and has helped tremendously. I would have saved some money finding you sooner too, but whatever lol. You are the fuckin goat, sir!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you! Wonderful to hear, glad to have you along on the hobby journey and always happy to help!

[@HappyDuude]

Huh - this has been super helpful in also understanding my wet pallette. My paints on the pallette would eventually look like the glaze. Will need to experiment more to understand is the pallette too wet, or am I not adding enough paint in the first place. Also makes me feel like I should not be putting metallic on my wet pallette for now. Thank you!

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, metallics are dry palette items only. THey are too hydrophillic and will get bad fast.

[@chadnine3432]

Great video. I knew about glazes, but never understood them until you explained it.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@bradlemke7550]

I'm just here for the fun of it your the best teacher in the game. This is possibly the most important part of getting going in mini painting can be super hard at first great video.

[@VinceVenturella]

Appreciate that, thank you very much. :)

[@Sean-ch4vn]

Thanks for a great tutorial! I really appreciate how you present and clearly explain the subject being presented, you're a very good instructor. Larry, great to see you back to work!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@phillipchronister7035]

Great video! I appreciate you taking the time to help us...i was getting there, but this really helped to clarify the glaze vs filter. Thank you!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@irrationalgaz]

Thanks for this one Vince. I just shared this with my local painting "brain trust". This will be really beneficial for explaining techniques to some of the guys who are just picking up the brush again for the first time in years.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Frothella]

I can't thank you enough for this video, finally helped me understand how to properly thin my paints and make my first attempt at nmm!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad I could help!

[@Frothella]

@@VinceVenturella To elaborate further, I had watched plenty of tutorials who simply said y'know 'apply glazes in thin layers to build up the colours' but never really went into detail about the steps to make one. In particular the step I was missing was wicking the brush, that one vital detail has finally made things snap into place for me. Really nice informative video!

[@dennisfoulds3941]

Never heard of filters before, very interesting, looks great. Hope I can get it to work. Thanks again Vince.

[@VinceVenturella]

Always happy to help.

[@hailhydra7959]

Thank you Vince and Larry. This was a video I needed but didn’t know I needed!

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, always happy to help. :)

[@Wijkert]

Great video Vince! Have come back to it a couple of times.

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome. :)

[@bsgaming3773]

It's awesome that you tied this all in together.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, glad it was helpful. :)

[@52Miniatures]

Thanks you Vince, very informative.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@spidey10to1]

Fantastic. This video has really opened my eyes to paint consistency. Thank you.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ophirgonen1772]

You are amazing. Thank you so much for your vids. After many other (great) beginner/tips vids by other creators, I find this chan and these vids to be the best. Thank you!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad you like them! :)

[@gnoam]

This is a super important video for every beginer!!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thanks!

[@kerthan72]

Love it! Really nice to see it done and not just explained.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it helped! :)

[@powersinbetween]

Vince Ventura paint detective, nice video mate!!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, happy to help. :)

[@Henry-lk5pm]

Now that was a great and truly helpful vid Vince. Many thanks.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@alfyb4512]

That ogre has been painted so much, it must be very confused by now.

[@Alphacheesehunter]

Larry not care about puny human paints. Larry need MORE LAYER.

[@VinceVenturella]

Larry has so many more layers to go before he is done. :)

[@Mikey__R]

There will always be more Larry.

[@jameswilson5087]

@@VinceVenturella Larry Da Onion

[@batman9592]

@@jameswilson5087 Onion Bros' Bro!

[@Illindi]

In Omnia, GG reference? Love the breakdown btw, nice to see the practical use and effects it makes. Many thanks!

[@VinceVenturella]

You know it. Let's get ready for a Rumpus.

[@johntakacs9441]

I've been painting for a long time and this has helped tremendously! Thank you!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad I could help!

[@sebastiandodson189]

Thanks Vince, I'm using this technique on some terradon wings. It's really helping to blend the color across the big wing surface.

[@VinceVenturella]

Fantastic! Happy to help. :)

[@batman9592]

12:45. Cracked me up so hard. Thanks Vince!

[@VinceVenturella]

Always happy to help.

[@power_SERG]

I've noticed how you hold your brush. I hold mines like a pencil with both my thumb and index fingers pressing on them. Is this personal comfort or is there an actual advantage in holding the brush the way you do? I know it sounds like a silly question, but I end up learning some real niche stuff that go long ways.

[@VinceVenturella]

It's not a silly question at all, I've been looking and thinking about this a lot lately actually. The answer is no, don't hold your brush like me, I hold it VERY wrong, but it's how I've gotten comfortable. :)

[@verluc]

Outstanding explanation ok key painting concepts! As usual... I'll put this in my "key painting video library! Thanks Luciano

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad you liked it!

[@jeffreycrowder2866]

Wow this was clear concise ND very informative

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, always happy to help. :)

[@mouz.geforce418]

excellent lesson for our beginners

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad you liked it :)

[@davedogge2280]

An Italian guy on a different channel who does minis showed me the difference between normal, wash and glaze paint consistency difference on his thumbnail and was surprised at how transparent he did the glaze. Got me wondering is distilled water with a bit of flow improver better for making glazes because than Vallejo matt medium because water is visibly more transparent than the milky White medium? Cannot remember the channel name of the Italian mini painter.

[@bentosan]

The milky white medium dries clear

[@davedogge2280]

@@bentosan yes it does.dry clear but does it dry as clear as day water with flow improver? Talking about Vallejo matt medium assuming say the painter doesn't have any Vallejo glaze medium to hand (dunno if the glaze medium is much better than the Matt glaze for making glazes and if so how so.)

[@bentosan]

Matt medium is a binder. Glaze medium is the same product just with a tiny bit of flow aid added to it. Both dry clear. They both helps to keep pigment even throughout the solution meaning you can thin them further and the binder also helps the pigment stick to the model so it doesn’t as easily rub off. They are both a bit of a crutch, you don’t need them but they can help with making the painting experience a bit more pleasant and can help improve paint adhesion. If you throw in enough medium you can shift the colour of the paint slightly towards white when it dries but if you are doing that then you have used too much.

[@VinceVenturella]

Bento covered what I was going to say. In the end, you can do most of this with water, though different paints will have different abilities to be thinned without trouble.

[@jonrutherford5616]

Awesome Video, That so very very helpful. Your videos are some of the best out there

[@VinceVenturella]

I appreciate that! Happy to help.

[@Swooper86]

Hey Vince. Question unrelated to this particular video, might even be a topic request/suggestion if you haven't tackled this before. How do you use highlights to indicate the reflectivity of the surface? Let's say I have two surfaces, and I want them to be the same colour but they're made from different materials, one matte and the other reflective (in my case, cloth vs enamelled metal shield), how would you paint that?

[@VinceVenturella]

Sure, I talk about it as part of a few other videos, but the short answer is the range of the spectrum. For example, with NMM, you go higher into highlights and darker into shadows, on the other side, a soft matte cloth, would have very subtle highlights and not have too deep of shadows. I will mark it down for a future video.

[@Fadeing]

What a great foundational video!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@frugal10191]

There is definitely a difference between "connaissance" and "savour faire". I.e. the difference between "knowing" and "being able to do". I understand the concepts, I am still building up the manual skills to get it right on a regular basis. I still struggle with getting details and fine lines as the paint is always too dry to be applied or so thin it blobs.

[@VinceVenturella]

Well said!

[@TheAmishStig]

I've been painting on and off for almost two decades...sadly, more off for the back half of it...and never really felt like I had a handle on this aspect so have stuck to a minimal-shading style. It's not an awful style, I'm certainly not ashamed of the figures I've done, but does lead to figures looking pretty 'cartoony' and lacking the warmth of a more realistic piece. I'm still aphantasic, and my lighting / color theory isn't any less godawful, so I know I've still got a long way to go on really 'getting' lighting / shading...but I think this will be the 'aha' moment that finally put things in terms / images that allow me to break through that ceiling. After watching a few other videos, I'm starting to really develop what I want my new style to be...starting basically from scratch scares me, but it comes with an enthusiasm I haven't had in a while. Do you have a similar video that breaks down 'between layers of glazes' under-shading like this? I get the basic gist...it's not unlike Dr. Faust's "Highlight aggressively before washing, so the highlights look like part of it and not painted on top" style...but a tool is only as good as the techniques used with it, and right now Count Adhemar's herald could have just as easily been talking about me: "Technique, rudimentary...style, nonexistent!" But seriously, though...thank you. I'm hoping this is the 'it clicks' I needed to really start developing my own style.

[@Rogiervdberg]

I am thinking about buying a few sets replacing my citadel paints. Is it adviceable to change to warcolours completely? Or can I better stick for the main coat of a mini to Vallejo and use the washes and glazes from warcolours? Cant seem to find a proper advice somewhere and I really want to know if it is smart to change to warcolours also for the main coat of a mini. I dont mind to learn to work with the paint. I use brushes and a wet palette. Could you help me out? Dont want to order just 1 bottle to try out because the delivery costs are a bit high for that. Thanks in advance.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, always happy to help. :)

[@horaciorivas7405]

Love all your videos. Thank you so much Vince. Hopefully i can take some classes at NOVA next year.

[@VinceVenturella]

I hope so too, missing NOVA this year for sure.

[@denisfrizh8118]

Thank you so much! Feels so right to finally understand where I was so wrong)

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, happy to help as always. :)

[@gmoney1664]

Great stuff and very useful. I've only just started using a wet palette and I think I've been over thinning my paint, as it's pooling like the glaze, but wasn't sure if this was osmosis. Also, glad Larry is doing well 😀

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@mobileandhostile7895]

⭐️ concise and precise presentation that is really helpful ⭐️ thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍

[@VinceVenturella]

My pleasure!

[@chucklamb3496]

Great, great explanation! Thanks so much! Very informative!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ogre8647]

Great video, made it easy to explain to my mini painting serfs I.E. my Kids! Thanks Mate!!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it helped

[@amukasa]

Great video. Simple and clear! Can you please do one for airbrush paint consistency and or airbrushing techniques? I love your videos!

[@VinceVenturella]

Sure, I will add it to the list. :)

[@Nortic111]

Good baking/cooking analogy!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you. It's how I always think about painting. :)

[@kreed11]

As always, awesome video - learned quite a lot. If you have a word of advice, though, I'm struggling a bit with glazes, in the sense that, when trying to apply a new color, it leaves visible color lines/brushstrokes where the tip of the brush hits the mini. I always make sure to dilute the paint (more than) enough, then wick the excess water away, yet still I find myself running into this issue. On the other hand, if I don't dilute the paint enough, it just looks bad when I apply the 'glaze', like an improperly applied layer. Any further tips would be greatly appreciated. And thank you for taking the time to teach us!

[@VinceVenturella]

My advice would be 1) Wick more off the end of your brush. 2) once you apply the glaze, clean your brush and then feather out the edge quickly.

[@kreed11]

Will definitely do. Thank you kindly!

[@MrStatistx]

The only really way to figure out the right amount is training and experience. One day you will paint and "get it" and suddenly you just have the right consistency, only to not get it right the next time. I am at that point right now. Some colors and minis, I finally have the right feel for the thinning, the next I don't, but I'm sure it will get better and more consistent over time.

[@bentosan]

Wicking off the excess paint and knowing how much to wick off is important. I’d always rather under wick be way too watery and over wick wick and get little to no paint on my brush, there is certainly more to it than just watering down the paint and it requires both a fair amount of patience and practice.

[@MrStatistx]

@@bentosan Oh yeah, I consider that part of the whole thinning process. It's also the part of it that I probably struggle the most with. (also when to get new colors and when to swish your brush in water)

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, it's just one of those things you get a feel for. It's always cooking, never baking. :)

[@Wijkert]

Have you tried using (ultra) matt varnish to thin glossy paints to change the finish while also diluting them to be used as glazes (or thinner layers for that matter)? Could be a time saver. No idea if it makes glazing more difficult? Have done this while airbrushing and that worked out well enough.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, I've done it, works great.

[@xenoterracide]

is the acrylic medium binder? or is it just a solvent that's different... if it's binder, how/why choose between solvent (water) binder (medium)

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, the acrylic medium is binder, water is a solvent. As to why, generally, with some paints, you can't thin them enough to get them down to a filter with just water as you have too much solvent and you break down the chemical bonds of the binder. So by thinning with medium, you can get things very thin without worrying about the paint breaking.

[@zakhoskins6404]

In your experience is the ability to thin the paint down to any consistency with only water and no other mediums pretty much unique to Scale 75 among the ranges you use? I love my Warcolours for layering and airbrushing, but I have to use flow improver to get them to work properly as a layer paint unless I'm trying to do some kind of thick wet blend. I can thin it down to the consistencies you've shown here with the Indian Shadow paint, but I've noticed if I do so with Warcolours and just water, the next layer I paint over it will cause the previous layer to pull up. I think it's something with the medium in the Warcolours range. Like I said, it can be thinned down as such, and it'll cover over a previous layer only tinting it ever so slightly; it just won't stick for whatever reason. Have you tried glazing Warcolours without using their transparent paints (I did watch that video several times already), and if so, what glaze/thinner medium do you use?

[@VinceVenturella]

No, I find you can do it with Vallejo Model Color, Kimera Color, Pro Acryl and those types of thick heavily pgmented paints. The naturally thinner ones can do it, but you have to be more careful about application and addititives like flow improver can really help.

[@stu1664]

Great tutorial Vince, would it be possible to do a video on primers given all the techniques and products available. Thanks

[@VinceVenturella]

Sure, I can add it to the list. :)

[@ThirdStringGamer]

I based a stormtrooper from Legion bright white and black (before I started watching your videos). Rather than start over I did a wash with nulin oil to get the small spots. Of course it stained my whole model, so I dry brushed it with bright white. It has alot of the worn effect I wanted, but it isnt quite there. It is dull looking and if I do any highlighting it seems out of place. I want to add some more wear to the armor and highlight some of the spots where light would hit. After I am done, would a thin bright white (the same base coat white) glaze dull things out again, but not lose the shading detail? Or should I use a lighter white or maybe a light gray? I just want it to look better than a wash and dry brush, but I haven't done any wet blending yet. Thank you in advance for any advice. I really enjoy watching your videos.

[@VinceVenturella]

There are many ways to go about this, but yes, I would push the white up and then glaze down some grey, that's generally easier than the other way around.

[@OlafKievit]

Thanks for the perspective, much appreciated!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@darrenw2]

One of the most helpful videos ever. I’ve been learning to use a wet palette and wondering why my paint is beading and now I realise it’s because I’ve made a glaze not a layer! If you put paint directly onto a Wet palette, should you add water to thin it or will the water in the palette be enough?

[@VinceVenturella]

You till need a little water most time, but not much.

[@darrenw2]

@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince!

[@timothythorne9182]

I was just struggling with this the other day. I had some grainy transitions in some layering on a dress and cloak. I tried to make a glaze to tie it together and make it more smooth. My glaze ended up being too thick and changed everything I just worked on. Quick question about doing that. Do you bring it together with one of the mid tones? The darker tones from the shadows? Or the lighter tones from the highlights?

[@VinceVenturella]

In general, if you are aiming to tie together, you glaze with the mid-tone. But of course, sometimes you will glaze with the dark colors to draw into the shadows, or the higher colors to smooth out the highlight.

[@timothythorne9182]

@@VinceVenturella I tried a mid tone, but didn't thin the paint enough

[@themodelhobbyist]

Thanks Again. 🙂Thomas over at The Model Hobbyist

[@MarlonKruis]

It's very helpful Vince!

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, happy to help. :)

[@jonfoisy1237]

Baking vs cooking haha very well put! So true

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad you liked it!

[@andrewgreenaway1513]

Love the comparison to baking and cooking. Very true and well explained. Does the paint taste worse when you get the mixtures wrong :D

[@VinceVenturella]

Like a bad cookie. ;)

[@southpaw5483]

Thank you for the content and education. Are the Badger Minitaire Ghost Tints basically a "Glaze"? I assume using a Glaze Medium with Acrylic Paint may create the same effect (i.e., Vallejo Glaze Medium with Vallejo Acrylic Paint). Your thoughts are welcomed.

[@VinceVenturella]

The ghost tints are a little different, as they are using additives for shine and finish as well. So yes, they are a glaze in coverage, but there is more to them.

[@southpaw5483]

@@VinceVenturella thx

[@MrBeuchet]

superbe vidéo . MERCI pour la démonstration.

[@VinceVenturella]

De Rein. :)

[@Valfodur]

Thank you soooo much for posting this!!

[@VinceVenturella]

Happy to help as always. :)

[@daniel_tenner]

And again thank you for a very helpful video. Maybe I need to stop using Vallejo Thinner Medium and Glaze Medium for a while and just get the hang of it with water.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@dfdugal]

This is great, thanks! So how can you tell that the paint is "broken" or "snapped"? Can you only tell after it has coffee stained on the model, or is there a way to tell that it's broken while its still on the palette?

[@VinceVenturella]

It tough, you really have to get a sense of it from the individual paint line. The thing is, if it happens on a mini in an area, you can always remix and go over the top to smooth out.

[@MentoliptusBanko]

Wow, very interesting video! Thanks Vince. Just a question, where does a wash fit in this spectrum you showed? Or is a wash just a thin paint allowed to pool in the recesses instead of applying it selectively?

[@VinceVenturella]

A wash is effectively something in the glaze consistency, but often with either some kind of flow improver addded (as in the case of citadel shades) or simply applied with more liquid and the intention to flow into the recesses. It really just has to do with the amount of liquid.

[@MentoliptusBanko]

Thanks!

[@Wijkert]

Question: with my current project (Frostgrave Warband) I am focusing on a strong zenithal under shade and glazing over the top for most of the area's of the models (this gives a little washed out look, but that is actually what I am going for). I have tried to only use water to thin the paints, just to get to know my paints better. Non of them have broken up. Are there additional reasons to use Glaze Medium over water, besides when the paint needs a a binder to not break up?

[@VinceVenturella]

Not really, it dries a little slower. :)

[@KevinNWahl]

Vince is the best

[@VinceVenturella]

Well thank you, I very much appreciate that :)

[@OPGuitarandGames]

Very informative has always. Based on the content presented, would you say that you mostly never use premix shades? Thanks

[@VinceVenturella]

I use them, but for very specific purposes and more as glazes or filters than traditional washes. There are exception (bases for example with micro-dirt texture), to me, they are a tool and very useful, but not in the way that we tend to use them when we start the hobby.

[@liuyi5527]

helpful as always. I'm wondering if you had a chance to try water mixable oil paints, health concern led me to to pick those up instead of traditional oil and I rly think they are quite a bit better for our hobby.

[@VinceVenturella]

Haven't given them a try yet, but I will certainly give them a go at some point.

[@maahesghulainn9480]

Is there some way to check on the palette or mini what a good controlled consistency is? I'm always worried I'm doing it too thick or thin. If say the goal is to get a thin coat to preserve the Zenithal without it looking like coffee stains

[@VinceVenturella]

I wear a glove, and test on that back of that, I've found it gives me a good judge.

[@aaronro455]

Nice video as always. How would you approach board game minis that you want to stand out and have tons of contrast without spending dozens of hours per mini?

[@VinceVenturella]

So in general, I would zenithal highlight them and use the galzes to get quick high contrast. I have videos on it here - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gF7HgohjmbiBl5o

[@Diegan]

Vince, sorry to ask an unrelated question to the topic: I see you are using a wet pallette with parchment paper. I. Have the sta wet palette, and I have tried many parchment papers and NONE let water filter. For example many people recommend reynolds, but I can put a piece of toilet paper on top of it floating on water (exageration) and it will never gets wet, meaning, no water pass through! Most parchment paper have silicone or wax coating and no water will ever filter through. So I always go back to the sta wet paper, which I know its not the best for mini paints, but at least 100% water passes through it. Could you please confirm which brand, model of parhcment paper you use, and confirm that FOR SURE, water filters throught it? Because Im sure many people use the wet palettes wrongly, because when they close, it keeps paints somewhat wet, but with papers that actually dont let water pass...

[@VinceVenturella]

I use this paper - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074C9N6TQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Yes, it lets water through by osmosis.

[@Diegan]

Vince Venturella thanks for the answer Vince! Thats EXACTLY the paper I use, and I am not seeing any water at all. Once its dry, water never seeps thrugh and wets anything dry I put over it. Or you are saying, even if something dry like toilet paper does not get wet, a paint will get wet??? How can you tell if it does let water through?