Hobby Cheating 258 - Speed Painting Necrons

[@SwashBuccaneer]

The knights who say Ni-Crons. ;)

[@VinceVenturella]

These guys are definitely looking for a shrubbery.

[@Lion4de]

Was listening with headphones and around 8:25 the mic audio changes and it comes out of the right side only. I JUMPED out of of my skin haha, I thought someone had snuck up on me and started talking to me lol. Random, but as for the video itself, top notch! I really appreciate you walking through your use of oils as a part of your normal workflow. I have started incorporating them in to most of the things I paint and I think they're great. Your content is unique because I find that people will use acrylics or oils exclusively, and your blended approach allows the best from both of those mediums.

[@VinceVenturella]

Sorry about the audio, I have no idea why that would happen, but hope I didn't scare you too bad. Thank you for the compliment, always happy to help.

[@Lion4de]

@@VinceVenturella No worries lol! It just made me laugh.

[@manaseater]

Absolutely brilliant. Will be using this for my newcrons! You must post an equivalent space Marine speed paint!

[@VinceVenturella]

There will be some space marine content coming in the future. :)

[@claytongreen5285]

I’m really happy with the way my Necrons look after this video. I went with the dirty, rusted look. Adding a little sap green acrylic ink to thin the black was a nice touch

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome.

[@Mr_Bimble]

I've got a load of 15mm (18mm really) movie Terminators to paint up, will use your guide here and throw in the black, brown, purple oil wash you showcased a while back. :)

[@dippa_au]

Started watching and immediately hear neecrons, what the! I do the double take but before I can back up I hear your i don't care how it's pronounced I'm calling them neecrons bit. Had a good chuckly, comedy gold (slightly rusted of course). Great content Vince, really enjoy your guides, tips and tricks, review, interviews and guest spots.... man you have a lot of content!

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, the Knee-Crons started as a joke and now I can't stop. Glad the video is helpful. :)

[@Whorabl3]

Nice work Vince. Did my OBR army essentially the exact same way as the former part of the vid (oil wash included) and they were really quick and look decent on the table. Then used all the extra time I saved on the MG to do the bigger pieces like Katakros, Crawlers, Harvesters, heroes etc. That way you can spend the bulk of the time doing fun things like OSL pops and gem work.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, if you've watch Ninjon's video on his OBR, he's got some similar tricks and focus on pops.

[@docbun]

Thanks Vince! I really like seeing the Molotow thing incorporated into your metal-painting flow. Gives me ideas abotu that knight-in-armor tin can I have to paint. On this specific mini, and on heavily metallic minis, I find it hard to do something I try to do with others: bring the viewer's attention on the face and especially eyes. Would you have any "extra tips" from what you have done here to do so? (I'm not talking about the fluorescent part, which is obviously there and as you said is next week's topic.) But maybe for instance would you change colors, going blue even if it maybe isn't cannon for a Necron to have blue eyes? Would you re-circle the eyes with black or something? Would you paint shiny metallic pupils and then paint the eye colors over? Just looking for eye-related tricks. (wink wink :-)

[@VinceVenturella]

So yes, I think the key is one, something like having the fluroescent eyes, 2) having that are have the most shine and 3) picking out with glazes and shadow the strongest to really push the contrast as you said.

[@Blackthorn0451]

Thanks, Vince. Looking forward to the video on fluorescent paints. I've been looking into those for my Necrons and space marine plasma coils.

[@VinceVenturella]

Coming soon! :)

[@novanIV]

Great video, I am not much for 40k but have always been partial to the necrons. Appreciated the sped up format with the voice over that was used in this video, it was really focused and to the point, although I recognize that it is more work to do than your normal voice over as you go and not applicable for every technique. Thanks for the great content as always!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, I am going to do more content like this in the future, and try to get the video length down while keeping the same information.

[@MrStatistx]

Nice, I started to work with fluorescent paint lately, so awaiting the next video excitedly

[@VinceVenturella]

Not long now. :)

[@Artifexmaholifts]

I came here just so hear Vince says Nicrons. Wasnt dissapointed :) great tutorial as usual.

[@VinceVenturella]

I will always deliver on the Knee-Crons. :)

[@13Robzilla]

"Boredom in paint form." Not the first time you have said this, but the first time I got it. Apparently not the sharpest bulb in the box. Something wrong with KZbin, can only like and only once. As always thanks again for sharing, the drones deserve a raise, please be safe!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, always happy to help. :)

[@MyGodLikeSpeed]

This was perfect timing. I'm painting up my indomitus kneecrons right now! lol I would love to see a vid where you took a necron warrior or immortal and took it to 11 just to see how far you could push a basic model. Thanks for all the tips, it's much appreciated!

[@VinceVenturella]

I'll see what I can do to add it to the list. :)

[@wwoolofl8056]

Ultra matte varnish for the rusted Necron but what type do you like for the untrusted Neecron. I find gloss varnish all over to be to much, maybe I just need to silly putty the model and gloss the body and matte the gun. Sorry talking aloud while leaving a comment for KZbin

[@VinceVenturella]

So in general, I don't varnish metals at all, with things like the necrons, I would just mix a little matte varnish into the matte paints to make sure I don't need to varnish later.

[@emilymegan40]

I can’t believe I haven’t gotten to take an in person class from you all year. This is not a streak I want to continue 😭 Thanks for all the great virtual content - miss ya!

[@VinceVenturella]

Indeed, let's get this year over and get back to hanging out in 2021

[@MentoliptusBanko]

That chrome paint is amazing :O

[@VinceVenturella]

It's so wonderful, it's like a mirror.

[@Tesal22]

Vince, after your last video I fully expected you to break out the oils to do weathering. I look forward to seeing you use oils more in the future. :)

[@VinceVenturella]

You certainly will, they are just part of how I work now. :)

[@jamesmitchell2704]

Awesome tutorial! Would something similar work with a bronze?

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, same strategy.

[@jamesmitchell2704]

@@VinceVenturella Awesome!

[@kahoonatownadventures7529]

Nice video, I got the necrons myself with the indomitus box but I am not sure I want to keep em. If I do its gonna cost me (new paints, books etc.), if I sell I get money heh heh. I like to paint a lot of my terrain with how you paint the necrons in the second half and put alot of rust and grime, it adds colour to it and I do not want to spend too much time on something that is gonna be in the background while wanting it to have a bit of colour variety on there at the same time.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, that's the problem with any figs, sometimes, they can be a big investment beyond the miniatures itself.

[@mohican19]

Can those Vallejo metal paints be brushed on ? Not too in 40k but these newcrons have got my attention

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, they brush on like a dream.

[@scArisen]

I’m starting a 40k iron warriors army; for the daemon vehicles that have flesh on them, would you use this style and silly putty off the flesh portions or tackle it differently?

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, that is exactly how I would tackle it.

[@Dhrazia]

Hi Vince. Great stuff as always. Have you ever thought of doing a sort of general "How to paint Sci Fi Minis" vid? I know its all the same techniques, but i'm struggling a little when i paint sci fi as opposed to fantasy. I know that edge highlighting and black lining really helps with a general sci fi feel, but im sure theres more to it. What are your thoughts?

[@VinceVenturella]

That’s interesting, I’ve never thought of them having innate differences but it’s worth exploring

[@mephistoelesmephistoeles3131]

Thanks for another great tutorial Vince, it allowed someone at the beginning of their hobby journey like myself to get a whole bunch of Necron warriors looking great in a timely fashion. What extra steps would you add to paint the Necron elite infantry and characters models? In the GW art these models often have a combination of multiple metals and coloured armour plates. Trayzn for example has gold jewellery plus a bright blue coloured external ribcage. For any metals other than steel would it be best to go with the GSW Pigment method you showed for the brass in HC 347 Perturabo? For any coloured armour plates would it be best to leverage the underlying TMM zenithal? If so for the bright coloured armour sections would it be best to just brush these on with multiple layers of thinned down Tamiya clear acrylics similar to the concept shown (albeit minus the airbrush application) on HC 346 Alpha Legion?

[@VinceVenturella]

Lots of questions there. :) - So yes, I would pick out those additional details with alternating color metals, slight glow on some items, etc. Yes, that gold is what I would use. If you can utilize that underlying zenithal, it makes it much easier yes. Yep, the Alpha legion style is what I would do.

[@mephistoelesmephistoeles3131]

@@VinceVenturella Thanks for taking the time to reply, your input is greatly appreciated.

[@lawrenceyork8263]

Vince, love the use of Molotow chrome paint, but what do you use to clean your brushes after you use it?

[@VinceVenturella]

99% isopropyl alcohol.

[@ILikeYous]

Still waiting on Vallejo Metal Color to show up but look forward to trying it out.

[@VinceVenturella]

It's amazing.

[@Frostsnake69]

Hi Vince! Thx for tutorial. I have one question. How will you paint green armor for necrons? or How will you paint necron vehicles?

[@VinceVenturella]

So my general plan would be to work a zenithal from black up through a very bright green on the top and then a bright yellow/green edge highlight.

[@namewastaken360]

TBH the Necrons don't appeal to me that much as models, but what does appeal is coming up with a good speed painting recipe and getting an army painted without obsessing over each paint job. And since I now own the Indomitus models I figure I may as well do it!

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, hope this helps. :)

[@sirbobulous]

Do you think the vallejo Air metals are preferable to the regular metals? For brush application.

[@VinceVenturella]

Specifically Vallejo Metal Color (not just MOdel Air), the model air are better, but nothing compares to Vallejo Metal Color, they are slightly more expensive, but totally worth it.

[@sirbobulous]

@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the tip! I usually use their Model Colour metlas and those are great all by themselves. That there's a better option still fills my heart with joy.

[@Scherdnr]

Does the molotow chrome need any special considerations since it’s an alcohol based paint? Brushes? No water, etc?

[@VinceVenturella]

I use synthetic brushes only, no water and you need isopropyl alcohol to clean it.

[@Scherdnr]

Vince Venturella can the paint be released onto a palette from the pens themselves or is the refill bottle necessary?

[@VinceVenturella]

@@Scherdnr You want to just use the refill, the pen itself is challenging to work with.

[@93milesperhour]

What product do you use to varnish the mini between layers of oil followed by acrylic?

[@VinceVenturella]

In general for metallics/oil washes, none. I just let them dry and then paint the acrylics. For matte paints, I will usually utilize a mix of vallejo satin and AK Interactive Ultra Matte varnish just to lock everything and create a save point more than worry about how the acrylics will cover.

[@TimCosgrovePrime]

Excellent video, like always, and gonna try it out this weekend. How long did you let the oil wash dry before painting the metal parts again?

[@VinceVenturella]

About 24 hours.

[@TimCosgrovePrime]

@@VinceVenturella awesome, thanks Vince!

[@aaranbaynham2249]

Awesome video Vince. Is Vallejo gunmetal 71.072 and Vallejo silver 70.997 the same colour as the big bottles that you use?

[@VinceVenturella]

Nope, those are the model air, they are decent, but there really is no comparison to the Vallejo Metal Color range, it's a singular range with no equal in the acrylic metals. They are big bottles and a little more expensive, but worth every penny.

[@aaranbaynham2249]

@@VinceVenturella Thank you ever so much. Your videos help the community get through the piles of grey shame. Do you have a affiliate link I can purchase them through (UK) or a Patreon?

[@VinceVenturella]

@@aaranbaynham2249 Neither at the moment, but I very much apprecaite it and I'm always happy to help. :)

[@obirsoy]

Did you varnish before the oil wash? Or is the metallic paint used here resistant to mineral spirits somehow?

[@VinceVenturella]

In this case I did not. I will often gloss varnish for matte paints to get the wash flowing, but with metals, I don't varnish. White Spirits don't actually direct react with acrylic paint, what usually happens is that you get the paint that wet and then push your brush around, it will pull up paint, but as long as you have a soft touch, you won't hurt anything.

[@peterlageri4177]

I like this high speed format and explanation format when doing an entire mini. Could you possibly add to the description of the video which paints and brushes you are using? The pots and bottles are in and out of the frame rather fast.

[@VinceVenturella]

I am liking this new format, I'll see what I can do on the additional information in the future.

[@NigelMills]

I've heard people talking about ink pens. My question do you just dip your brush to the dip of the pen? Maybe a product review? Great information as always.

[@TheRunesmythe]

Actually, they sell the paint/ink in refill bottles you can buy separately and then dispense it just like you would any other type of paint or ink you'd use.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, as Rune said, you want to buy the refill pack and just use a normal brush.

[@MrStatistx]

Marco Frisoni also loves Molotov and uses it from even the primer to colors. Too bad the only Molotov products I can find/get around here are graffiti spray cans

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, I really wish that line was more available here.

[@bencoomer2000]

A Gondor army from LOTR. The Chrome might end up with the Dol Amroth knights... You're really testing me on oil paints, though Vince...

[@bencoomer2000]

The only thing I might add is a really small an light pass of stippling of a metallic to get few scratches to the shiny metal, especially on the edges.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, I like it for the high highlights. :)

[@diobrando5896]

Oil wash is appropriate for machines

[@SuperDuperHappyTime]

Dio Brando Do you of all people really need a speed painting guide?

[@diobrando5896]

@@SuperDuperHappyTime I can only stop time for 10 seconds

[@SuperDuperHappyTime]

Dio Brando True, but I figure an immortal vampire has plenty of time to paint his minis while he takes over the world and waits for whichever Joestar to arrive and pound him into oblivion.

[@VinceVenturella]

I love me some oil washes everywhere I can. :)

[@claytongreen5285]

Did you varnish these before the oil wash?

[@VinceVenturella]

Nope, no need to varnish with this kind of a smooth surface.

[@oatbringer627]

Love it! Thanks for sharing Sir! I have a question: I know how you like tmm paint, use vallejo mc myself but I struggle finding a proper gold (mixing vmc opper and gold takes me so far. I also use vallejo liquid gold) What acrylic metallic golds do you recommend? I wanted to start experimenting with enamels. Any experience with that?

[@VinceVenturella]

So I use Vallejo Metal Color Gold and Copper, mixed in a 3-2 ratio, it produces a nice rich warm gold. I have tried a few enamel golds, haven't really liked them.

[@noamisaac]

Another great video! I've been wondering, what mix do you use to thin your airbrush? I remember you use a mix of flow improver and thinner, but I don't remember the proportions. Also, I've been trying to use some Warcolours, and I've been wondering whether I can use Vallejo's airbrush flow improver as a substitute for the liquitex flow improver you use. Thank you very much!

[@VinceVenturella]

My mix is 80/20 thinner to flow improver. You can use that same mix with warcolours without issue.

[@noamisaac]

@@VinceVenturella Thanks!

[@HasteHobbies]

Great scheme! Do you recommend any varnish for the shiny (non-rusty) paint scheme?

[@VinceVenturella]

If you are laying down a really bright metal like I did, you have to varnish it to get it to feel old, if you start from just a base steel, you can skip the varnish.

[@NightWolf1982pl]

15:22 you have double audio on this clip. Other than that like always great clip :)

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, darn it, I can't believe I didn't catch this.

[@manoloaguirre7159]

I noticed it too... I thought I had accidentally started playing another video, but then realized it was Vince going full Gollum/Smeagol. "We dont like the shiny, precioussss... stipple in that rust, you nasty hobbitsesss!"

[@angelsainz3021]

So what's the point of using the shiny Molotov if you're going to weather it? Couldn't you skip that step, or does it add to the final result?

[@johntakacs9441]

He was giving us both versions. The first, if you wanted that T-800 shine and then the second, worn and rusted look.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, as John said. I wouldn't use it if I was going to weather it out normally, but here I wanted to show both versions.

[@Magicwillnz]

My big turnoff for Necrons is that I really enjoy painting. They're way too simple for me. I feel like they were designed for people who want to slap down a coat and a wash - not that there's anything wrong with that.

[@VinceVenturella]

That's fair, that is certainly the case for the base troops, though I will say many of the new guys have a great deal of complexity, especially the characters.

[@chucklamb3496]

Could you list the “liquid chrome” in the details! Please

[@WilliamHatton0]

shop.molotow.com/en/marker-refills/molotow-liquid-chrome-refill-30-ml.html I think.

[@VinceVenturella]

Looks like William has you set. I will add it above as well.

[@chucklamb3496]

Vince Venturella I went to that site and tried to order, they don’t ship to the USA

[@MF_Dicedealer]

Chuck Lamb Amazon has you

[@chucklamb3496]

MF Dicedealer Thanks!

[@choujifancosplayer]

Hey Vince, been watching your videos for at least the last year i think ive watch almost all your hobby cheating videos, and ive wanted to try and push into wet blending, and ive watched your video on it, but was having problems in that when i tried to blend, the paint kinda just felt like it was over thinned,(which is entirely possible as im still struggling with constancy), and instead of blending it kinda just lifts off or doesnt blend. but i noticed another person in the comments was also having problems using vallejo which is what im using. I remember he asked if you could do another wet blending video but with vallejo, and i was wondering if you were to be able to do that, or if you might know what the problem might be. Obviously there is some amount of user error as i am still new to trying to blend. I also tried to do loaded brush blending as well but had a very similar result. Again it verywell might just be my problems with consistency, cause i am incapable of judging consistency, so when people tell me oh just go for skim milk it means nothing to me, which is unfortunate given that, there is no exact science for it which is what owuld help me immensely. Thanks in advanced, or would you suggest starting to collect scale 75 colors, cause ive been considering it for awhile now especially after watching your video on like 9 different paint brands 75s ultra matt finish is appealing to me.

[@VinceVenturella]

Well, one of the keys is don't use the air paints, the thinness of them makes them difficult to wet blend. One of the tricks to the wet blend is that you need to use more or less straight paint from the pot, but then push it around and smooth it out, and then when wet, combine it with similar thickness paint. As to Scale 75, I certainly love them and I would recommend you try a small set and see how they fit you, they are still a regular part of my rotation.

[@johntakacs9441]

We are the Knights who say Ni-crons! That's cool, I still pronounce Tyranids as Ti-ran-ids.

[@eddy3722]

I've always pronounced it "ti-RAN-ids" but most people seem to say "tirran-ids" which just sounds odd to me.

[@VinceVenturella]

They are looking for that shrubbery. ;)

[@maxbrandt6]

NEEcrons are neat!

[@VinceVenturella]

I agree. :)

[@stephenspackman5573]

Nadiral < nadir? I'm not sure “nadal” is a word (or rather, it's not one I'd heard before the last few weeks). Technical question, though: why is the shiny zenithal applied before the dark nadiral, rather than the other way around? My argument for the other order would be that light casts beams, but darkness is just the absence of light-so in a fight between darkness and light, in physics terms, the light wins. But, crucially, that's a physics argument, not a painting argument-painting has its reasons, too-and I've seen a number of good painters do it in this order recently-in fact, I think nadiral over zenithal is gaining in popularity. I've been enjoying the Molotow (it's pronunciation week! They're German, so I bet that ‘w’ is pronounced like an English ‘v’, making it a much more familiar word-someone please tell if I'm wrong) chrome (I've been using one of the markers), and it's utterly lovely except for having (unless I'm imagining this) a slightly weird colour that looks just not *quite* right with other metals. (Do I need to use more parentheses?) And-any gotchas using it with a brush? I gather it's alcohol-based?

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, I have no idea what the right word is. :) - As to the light, in the end, I do it because of the paint reasons, I want the shadow to be able to dominate, for me, the reason I am painting the last color is always because I want that to be the thing that covers last basically, yes, it's artist license. :) As to Molotow, you need some isopropyl alcohol to clean the brush as it is alcohol.

[@stormcrow7611]

16:48 and not one "robut"...What is going on?

[@VinceVenturella]

Missed opportunity on my part. :)

[@jarcuadanantus28]

Shame, I’d love to paint quick models but I can’t even prime them myself. There’s no way I can utilize any of this. I’ll keep browsing for a speed painting brush method.

[@VinceVenturella]

Well, I have several on this channel in the playlist. :) - That being said, you can certainly do everything I did here with drybrushing as well.

[@claytongreen5285]

Zero dislikes. 💯

[@VinceVenturella]

Well, KZbin hides Dislikes now. ;)

[@travislankford9254]

Knee-crons...do they even have knees? Or are they like babies and do not have them?

[@VinceVenturella]

I think they have knees. :)

[@SuperDuperHappyTime]

But is it truly a speed paint if you have to wait a week to see how to finish it?

[@VinceVenturella]

You got me there. :)

[@fruitytoots4133]

knee crons? or neck rons? Hmmm

[@VinceVenturella]

I mean, it's certainly not the way I am saying it.

[@PrimalAce]

Hey Vince, are you aware that your video thumbnails and title cards are always super badly cropped?

[@VinceVenturella]

That's strange, the thumbnail looks normal to me. I think I missed the video title card, but I have been trying to size that up lately.

[@le_chimp]

Kneecrons

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, I knew this would kill people. :)

[@BlastastiC]

My Chamon dwelling bone-daddies are going to get this treatment I think :D

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, love it.

[@6thchance995]

Step 1. Prime with Leadbelcher. There is no step 2.

[@VinceVenturella]

That's a speed paint. :)

[@6thchance995]

Vince Venturella Gotta stick to the skills I’ve mastered. 😃

[@adammcneill8262]

Your focus is out sounds great but the size and camera is just dark

[@VinceVenturella]

I'll see what I can do for better lighting.

[@bentosan]

Love me some kneekrons

[@VinceVenturella]

Me too. ;)

[@liquidtoad3910]

Vince you have been doing this for some time now. a better camera, lighting and better audio could work wonders. also a lot of memes and compliments in your comments as always. but no one about varnish or questions about painting over oils without issues..typical

[@VinceVenturella]

The camera is very high quality, it's more my use of it probably. I am surprised this aurdio didn't work for you, I separately narrated and used a nice mic. As to the varnish, someone did ask, I didn't varnish after the oils, in general, as long as the oils (especially a thin wash like this) is dry, there is no issue with acrylics over top. That being said, when it comes to doing a whole miniature in oils (as I did with the Crimson Fist), I will generally varnish, but that's just because I varnish many times throughout the process as save points. Hope that all helps.