Hobby Paint Alchemy & Avoiding The Nightmare - Vlog # 109

Mixing name brand hobby paints and solvents can be akin to solving a Rubik's Cube. Have you ever ruined a prize possession model due to incompatible hobby paint and applying that one extra layer you should have avoided?
This a brief tutorial on how I safely mix particular paints (Tamiya & Vallejo) of choice on a model while avoiding a disaster. Develop a safe system and stick with it and you will all but eliminate the risk factor.
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DISCLAIMER: I pay for all the products and materials I use in this video content, unless otherwise stated. I do not receive any affiliate sponsorship, fees, funds, support, or gifts from company products, and/or any other companies, (unless otherwise stated). I only endorse products for the benefit of the community and my own personal use, apart from indicated sponsors.

[@tomoconnell4235]

I would now describe myself as an avid follower. I have re-watched many of your videos and especially the paint and weathering tutorials. Always excellent. I totally understand this video because while you have described the reasons why and how you use Tamiya and Vallejo Air in other videos this is your best comprehensive discussion on it. Enjoy the day

[@boomerdiorama]

I can achieve all the desired results I want with these paints coupled to the process I demonstrate. I love Humbrol enamels (still do actually), and lacquer solvents, back in the day. But now? . . . I would never trade acrylics for the former . . . no way. No more problems (other than fast dry times), no headaches, no finger prints, unbeatable "flat" qualities, safe application, easy airbrush and cleaning use, etc. etc.

[@tomoconnell4235]

I am using your system and enjoying the results, thanks again

[@randytaylor1258]

I've been building models for decades but I learn something from every one of your videos. Always thoughtful.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@randytaylor1258 I still learn from other modelers as well. Most of my knowledge came from books like François Verlinden, Shepherd Paine and Ray Anderson when I was a kid.😁

[@randytaylor1258]

@@boomerdiorama Right on! Shep Paine and I exchanged letters in the Dark Ages before the Interweb. You might also be interested in Model Building Handbook by Brick Price. Just like fine artists and writers, you have developed your own style and I thank you for sharing that. Your use of black primer and coloured tints is fascinating and never would have occurred to me and I'm looking for the right model to try it on. Cheers!

[@dorkydoo683]

You make it very easy to understand. I have Tamiya paints on order. I have not tried them yet. Looking forward to experimenting with them. I learned the hard way about paint compatibility. I had spent an hour or two every night painting one of my planes. It was my 5th or 6th successful flame paint jobs. It was looking so damn good. I had just finished with the 1200 grit final sand for clear coat. I prepped everything, all wiped down, clean, two part clear mixed and ready. The clear laid down so nice and smooth, had a water wet shine to it. I clean up the guns, cups, jars, paint area and head inside. After I got home the next day, I looked at the plane, I was existed to see how shiny it was. I had the most awesome, shiny wrinkle paint job ever. There was not one spot that did not have puckers, wrinkles. It was better than the paint designed to be wrinkle finish. The paint and clear where automotive enamel, the paint was PPG, clear was the house brand for the auto paint store. The paint had pulled from the primer and or the primer had pulled from the wood. It was more like the old Formby's paint remover. Only good thing was the paint peeled off like a sun burn. After that, I stuck to one brand from primer to clear. I will take your Sage advice with how you apply these paints. I do like you tried and true method. Your results stand for themselves. You take a lump of plastic, cut, sand, glue, paint it into a master piece of weathered utility equipment. I have always painted the piece to look like it rolled out of the show room then made it dirty. You start, flat black then add color until you get the degree of weathering you want. Less color means more weathering, more color less weathering. Black, umber's, brown, tan, you bring out the details in an amazing way. Thanks for all of the tips, tricks and knowledge you are passing along. Buzz.

[@boomerdiorama]

I am sorry to hear what happened to your prized model. I know the feeling. Failure can be a good thing if we learn from the experience and reform our practice. Paint doctrine is subjective and personal for each individual modeler and it can take awhile to develop a reliable system. Nevertheless, it sounds like you are well on your way to be a very accomplished modeler. Cheers and thank you for taking the time to share your story. ~ Boomer.

[@8.6BLK338LM]

So much good information Mr Boomer . . . Man bringing all you know in video is simply priceless for us mere mortals lol man I mean it . . . so glad your a model railroader bringing your knowledge to whoever wants to learn . . . man I can't say enough good of what your throwing down here my long distance friend . . . Brian from Wichita Kansas

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Yes . . . model railroads. I plan to get back to the 'River Road' build after this summer. ;-)

[@schadowolf]

Outstanding tutorial as always!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks again! I appreciate the comments. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@cloverdalerail1093]

Great tutorial, it makes perfect sense.

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@luke_atthat]

Great tutorial, thank you

[@boomerdiorama]

You are welcome!

[@FarlandHowe]

Excellent tutorial and lesson. I was using Tamiya flat of several colors yesterday and putting Vallejo washes on it. The finished work came out very pleasing. I thought of your channel a couple times while I was working on it. I was painting a granite paving stone embossed on plasticard. I never would have had the knowledge or tools without your tutelage. cheers, Rob

[@boomerdiorama]

That method works great for hard surfaces as you indicated. Glad to hear you were happy with the outcome. Cheers.

[@ianisaacs2340]

I’ve been eagerly awaiting this video!!!!! Thank you Boomer!!!

[@boomerdiorama]

O.K. - that sounds great! Cheers Ian! ~ Boomer.😁

[@ericp6612]

Thanks for the great information. Tamiya is a great paint to work with! Thanks to your techniques my scenery is turning out nicely!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you. Have fun!

[@BoxcarJerry]

Good overview of the different types of paints. Thanks for the tips .

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@stephenrusso7075]

Thank you for some great information.

[@boomerdiorama]

My pleasure!

[@ministerspencer3751]

👍🏾💪🏾👊🏾 excellent tutorial! Thanks Boomer.

[@boomerdiorama]

Hey Spencer! It's nice to hear from you! Thank you! Cheers ~ Boomer.😁

[@brianconnell9601]

Think of Vallejo as PVA glue with pigment in it. It is PVA based paint that's why it is so soft. I like to use Tamiya flat, semi gloss or gloss clear in a spray can over the Vallejo. Works wonderfully well.

[@boomerdiorama]

That is a good description of it. I really like Vallejo for "weathering" washes. They also last forever when purposed this way along with the eye dropper application. 😁

[@herrkiwi3110]

Couldn't agree more.

[@boomerdiorama]

Even then, the final coat can be nerve-racking . . . lol.😂

[@stevenlitkey9354]

Great vid as always Boom. Tamiya paint is so darn robust. I used to airbrush it with IPA but have since switched totally to lacquer thinner. The Vallejo line is crazy as far as color selection. It airbrushes ok but is fragile. Use it a ton for figure painting and until it’s dull coated you can rub it right off by even light handling. 👍🏽👍🏽

[@boomerdiorama]

I only really use Vallejo for washes and a few touchups. I can't spray lacquer - I get a head ache. As you can see I am addicted to Tamiya. ;-) Cheers.😁

[@joelvale3887]

For me distilled water works well for the Vallejo paints

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes indeed and very recommended. I think distilled water is only a buck a gallon as well. ;-)

[@randytaylor1258]

I love Tamiya paints -- I've used them since they first came out. I still use enamels for washes (but not your "tints") and I've never had problems. I find the washes are delicate and flow well. I recently bought some Mr. Colours for a project because it has the right colours, and I'm looking forward to trying it with its own thinner and then enamel washes.

[@boomerdiorama]

Sounds great!

[@DRCRailroard]

Thanks Boomer, I always value your insights and experiences. Is it possible you just provided the definition of sanity? Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting the same results.😊 Happy rails

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes, absolutely! ;-)

[@KingTrump2024]

Yeah I've finished complete models only to have the clear coat react with the paint and liquify everything in sight . Paint chemistry is very important !

[@boomerdiorama]

Sorry to hear that. I wasted and blew up a few models in the past as well due to gambling with "mixed" media and paint. Man does that ever hurt. No more though . . . ;-)

[@randytaylor1258]

@@boomerdiorama My dad gave me a Floquil weathering kit for Christmas. I brushed on Dust and watched my HO buildings shrivel up and die. Polly S plastic prep first would have saved me. Neither exist anymore. 😟

[@boomerdiorama]

@@randytaylor1258 Acrylics are completely safe, although they do have a learning curve in terms of how fast they dry. They are challenging to blend but the opaque colors can be quite stunning in their brilliance.

[@OtterCreek]

Just sprayed a model this evening. Didn't have my glasses on and miss read the pressure on the regulator, blasted silver over spray pretty bad in a spot or two!! My plan was to brush on black touch-ups, but you say it's risky to brush Tamiya over airbrushed Tamiya?? This seems counter intuitive. Thanks again for your wisdom and experience.

[@boomerdiorama]

Don't brush paint Tamiya acrylic over sprayed acrylic Tamiya. You will regret it - unless you use another water based paint or enamel over it. Re-spray it if you can.

[@thetrainboard2772]

So, for my firt airbrush experience, I'm buying the t88 omni brush with the makita mac 700 compressor . My worktable is 5 ft from where I'll routinely will keep the compressor on the celler cement floor. The farthest reaches of my o gauge trainboard is 25 feet from that point. Do i get separate hoses, one 6 ft for the workbench and one $40 25 ft to reach outward. I expect to airbrush streams, rock ledges, planned lakes, hills... will my target psi range be 30 to 40 psi, and therefore ok with a $45 25 ft hose? Loss of pressure at 25 ft?. Does a 25 ft hose mean trouble with some moisture ? A second choice would be to buy a car mechanic's lolley on wheels to drag the 52 pound mac 700 compressor closer to the board where needed. I expect buildings, vehicles, trees will be airbrushed on my worktable. I see air compressor hoses are typically 6, 10, or 25 feet. I only will use the mac 7 for my trainboard. Its in my celler, a 15 step stairway so using the mac 700 in my garage and its saws wont happen. Also, do you use a milton m style safety coupler on your mac 700? Or a separate moistue trap on the compressor hose?

[@boomerdiorama]

I use a wheeled dolly for my air compressor. 30-40 PSI. Don't worry about water (moisture trap), just drain the tank every week. Get the longest hose you feel comfortable with.

[@waynehawkins2157]

I would like to see the finished blue and white wreaker, GOOD WORK!!

[@boomerdiorama]

Noted! Thank you!

[@mariahojnacki9174]

Great video. What psi are you setting at the compressor? What application would you change psi or just use less or more air at the airbrush trigger? Learning so much, thanks.

[@boomerdiorama]

I use full air and then bring on the paint slowly. I usually shoot @ 40 P.S.I. - but that is my preference. I like higher pressure because I never clog and can cut a fine line with a fat tip when I use high PSI. The primary factor with any airbrush is thin paint. Most problems occur because the paint is too heavy and the painter is in a rush to cover things up too soon. ;-)

[@benoitevellin8796]

As I once took the cleaner instead of the thinner for diluting some Vallejo paint for airbrushing, I can confirm that Vallejo cleaners are IPA based, and that IPA is not nice with the paint. 😅

[@boomerdiorama]

Good to know! Thanks for sharing that. I only really use (secondary) Vallejo for touch-ups and washes. It's not my primary paint.

[@BrockvilleRailfan]

I have watched many of your videos multiple times, there is so much knowledge to absorb you just can't do it in one go. You are absolutely right about thinning Tamiya paints, the bottle looks small but in a way it's not a bottle of paint but a bottle of pigment, you can thin it and use it almost till the bottle rinses out clear. I have a question but not sure where to put it, this seems as good a place as any. I have seen one or more of your flat cars as extras in your videos but never starring. I would love to know how you approach the weathering of the deck specifically. Do your cars have wooden decks, or styrene, or in some cases the cast manufacturers deck. I have followed your procedure of using rail brown, 50/50 XF-1 and XF 79 as a base coat and then in similar fashion to the way you airbrushed the barge loading ramp I added streaks of XF76, XF88, and XF15. The outcome was way better than the original cast gray deck (Athearn "Ready to Roll" flatcar) but there is something that is not making it quite look like wood, in my mind it's missing wood grain. Where I'm going with this is humbly asking for a tutorial on the weathering of a flatcar deck, yours look amazing. Thank you for all your videos, I look forward to them with rabid anticipation.

[@boomerdiorama]

Try a thin Raw Umber "Oil" wash over the Tamiya (Grey or Flesh) base color.😁

[@BrockvilleRailfan]

@@boomerdiorama I see, sort of the reverse of what I was doing, I'll try the lighter colour base and a darker wash on top. I'll have a go and see where that takes me. Thanks a million.

[@harveywaitchison2062]

Thanks for your experienced insights. What brand(s) of brushes do you rely on? Thanks. 🇨🇦

[@boomerdiorama]

No particular brand really. Basic economy brushes from art supply store.

[@wilzdart]

Your method on Appling layers of of weathering is very easy compared to other ways and mediums I had been using, so a big thanks!! Question, I have been experimenting with Acrylic inks, I have cut it with ISO , my question is would it be a candidate over Tamiya? If the ISO damages the paint base then just use the inks the way they come. Right now I am using them as a filter and as a medium to give a flat finish using it as a contrasting color. Again thanks for all you do for us.

[@boomerdiorama]

I use water-based (not IPA) Vallejo over Tamiya. Inks are fine as well.

[@cvrailroadinhoscale8338]

Great info Boomer. I have already aquired some Tru-Color acetone base paint from Arizona Hobbies, (Grand Trunk blue and CN orange-red and primer ) for Locomotives, they had my exact color and good reviews was the main reason for purchase, should I be ok as long as those are my base colors or do you recommend I stay clear of acetone base altogether on rolling stock.Thank You Sir, Dave D...

[@boomerdiorama]

Everyone has to develop their own paint system through trial and error - and advice and experience from others. Try it out on a "cheapie" and see if you like it. Throw different washes on it and see what happens. I developed my system over time and it works great. I would try and stay away from acetone based paint if you can though. But who knows, it may work out well for you. Acetone or turpentine can ruin your day (favorite model) if you are not familiar with "mixed" media applications.

[@randytaylor1258]

@@boomerdiorama Don't forget that acetone is the basis of model cements, whether it's Testers tube glue or Tamiya Extra Thin cement. Spraying it may be possible but brushing it but brushing it sounds risky.

[@mikemettelka7432]

What are your thoughts on weathering chalks/powders. I've been building up a supply of these paints because I like your system and results

[@boomerdiorama]

Some people like weathering chalks and powders and I understand why. Personally, I don't use them. I don't like "loose" media on my models. Besides, I can achieve the same results with thin paint washes, dry brushing, etc. In my opinion, if you must use them, it is best to get them out of your system early . . . lol. Cheers.😁

[@qwincyq6412]

Really good tips and pointers. I like tamiya paint but I didn’t know about thinning it with thinned ipa. Also about paint over paint. Many modellers use india ink to weather and bring out details on structures but I’ve always wondered why not a thin wash of dark or black paint? Is it because of this problem with paint over paint? India ink seems very expensive if there’s another way.

[@boomerdiorama]

I paint almost everything with multiple washes and filters. This way I can control the outcome in a step-by-step process. I can control the light and the dark before making a closing decision. All washes are nothing more than thinned paint for me. I get the India Ink thing but I can't be bothered with the stuff. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@qwincyq6412]

@@boomerdiorama thanks for the answer. Your way makes a lot of sense to me.

[@PennCentral99]

hey Boomer, great advice. Once people understand that not all paints (oil, enamel, acrylic) are compatible with all thinners or reducers, the learning curve is reduced and the final result is much more pleasing. You are also right when it comes to "systems". Not to be ignorant, it's OK to experiment and try new things, but when you find something that works for you, stick with it. Ammo/Mig makes some great acrylic and enamel products and I have success with them, usually alternating between them, Vallejo and craft acrylics. I don't have many AK Interactive products, but some love them. Terry

[@boomerdiorama]

I know of Ammo/MiG products and they are outstanding paints as well. But, yes . . . develop a system and stick with it and your results will be predictable and reliable for sure. Cheers.

[@randytaylor1258]

@@boomerdiorama Surprises are not fun -- and often expensive.

[@sprucehouse9]

What do you use for a primer?

[@boomerdiorama]

That is a good question with no simple answer . . . lol. I only use primer on metal model parts because Tamiya Acrylic (XF) "Flat" paint is an acrylic primer for plastic. 😉

[@cloverdalerail1093]

Looks like an old Coastline tow truck.

[@boomerdiorama]

Lol. I love those old character wreckers. ;-)

[@randytaylor1258]

@@boomerdiorama That's a great little model. I can't imagine painting it with a brush though washes will bring out the detail. What are you using for cable?

[@boomerdiorama]

@@randytaylor1258 I use good quality thread. Then I brush it with some clear acrylic or paint to knock off the fluff.

[@ronduz1281]

Great video boomer

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you kindly! ~ Best regards ~ Boomer.

[@bruceames6332]

Great 👍 tips, Boomer

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks 👍